great demonstration why the best machines are so expensive. not only are they precise in 1D, but in 2D as well as 3D, across all temperature conditions.
Awesome work! I'm about to start converting my G0704 to full linear rails and your work is a great inspiration. I'm going to try and film the process, but we'll see how that goes...
@@joergbeigang I'm sure yours will turn out just fine! I've already done my z axis and it was a huge improvement, so I've got a little experience under my belt.
The test at 9:35 .. the scrawny swivel/articulated arm is nowhere stiff enough to be able to properly accomodate the forces from a 1/1000 dial indicator.. the whole arm simply flexes too much... use a different more rigid method or buy a hydraulic arm/stand (HG) (or an oversized NOGA like articulated arm mag stand).. anyway an awesome awesome machine that should make some nice chips soon :)
I observed that as well on the footage. The stand is indeed pretty flimsy. But it's somehow amazing how accurate it's flexing. I mean it moves tenth of millimeters and the results are all in a range of 1/100 millimeter. For sure I gotta find a better solution for that. And I'm happy that you like my build!
@@joergbeigang Well, it will be at least as good as all the other aluminum routers. I am more excited how much better it will be. Keep on going with that good work.
Awesome build. Great to see how you managed to build this without using a mill at least for accurately boring small components. How did you manage to dial in the ballscrew and servo mount with the rails ? Did you use shims or the like ? Granite epoxy builds are becoming more and more common with cheap linear rails and ballscrews, it's exciting to see how it's enabling builders to literally build machines from scratch.
Thanks. The bearings of the ball screws and the mounts of the motors are sitting on 5mm spacers. Thouse I filed, sanded and lapped till the ball screw was parallel to the rails. Sure not the fastest way, but it worked...
@@joergbeigang Yope, just watched your previous videos. Well, that's what you do when you can't mill them flat. Have a look at my chanel, I'm retrofitting an existing lathe with centroid controls. A bigger mill will sure be the next build, been watching granite / epoxy for a while now. I would love to make one from square steel tubes stuffed with e/g.
I'm searching for fittings with M6x0.75 thread for lubrication as you did, seems to be H20 like mine, do you remember where you get them ? Which lubricant did you use ?
Epoxy after few cycles of temperature alterations bonds faster. Mechanical dimensions probably would be better if temperature changes slowly, in controlled conditions. Please note, that epoxy could directly make good threads.
More rigid than my Precision Matthew PM45M(CNC from factory). You have a great start it's just the details like backlash and spindle quality that will make or break you.
Worst case I could swap the ball screws later on. It's difficult for me to tell the effect of each parameter. I'm doing this the first time and experience can't be replaced.
What do gou think about doing a summary video with narration? Condense all these build videos into maybe 25-35 minutes and actually talk about what you're doing and why. I'd watch frim beginning to end and a couple of the parts I was confused on, it could provide some clarification. But excellent work. Looking forward to more!
Good point. I can understand that it's not always that easy to follow, also because I only recorded a small part of the actual work and often I was working around problems which are not that obvious. Making a summary video is of course a good idea, but it's also time consuming. And time is the crucial point here. I'm pretty busy at work plus I'm also renovating a house I recently bought. But it's definitely on my to do list.
the nipples were mounted on the linear bearings, I replaced them there with the quick release fittings for the tubes. I bought all that stuff online, could have been ebay, can't really remember. If you google for pneumatic tube and quick release you'll find plenty.
They're aluminum cause I'm not really having the tools to cut steel precisely enough (got basically only a handsaw and an angle grinder). Hope they'll do.
It's tapping grease. And it's a special saw blade for aluminum. Every second tooth is a tiny little bit longer and got chamfered sides. And of course the angle of the teeth is less aggressive compared to a saw blade for wood.
Not at all. Was my first idea as well. Was drawing a few extrusion based designs in cad the last years. But wasn't convinced enough to actually start building one. And with this epoxy granite design I actually made, there was also the challenge of trying something new and see if it works out the way I imagined it. For me it's more about learning new things and pushing my own limits then comparing my machine to other home made ones. In the end there not only a machine, there are also new skills and experiences. Both quite handy for future projects :-)
Which class are your ballscrews? As long as repeatability is there you can map inaccuracies in software to deal with that as the machine mills. The project is looking great, well done.
I honestly don't know which class they are. The whole build is on a budget, so I bought cheap Chinese ones. To compensate the backlash in the control software would be an option. I just figured that Glass scales are absolutely affordable. Creating a control loop with that and linuxcnc sounds very interesting to me. I just didn't find anything about hobbyists using them. Wonder why. Anyway these are things to keep myself busy in the future. First of all I wanna get it working at all.
8:22 looks like the perfect opportunity to lose a fingertip. With just a 1 cm gap, this could have been avoided. Never invite these things by design - and if there's a cover on later, it'll get you that one time you're operating it without.
All fine here. Usually I know when to expect a kick back, but this time I was pretty surprised. Guess the dull saw blade did is part as well. Gotta get it sharpened. One of the biggest risks is routine. Doing the same thing often enough and at one point paying less attention is just natural.
Hi. @Joerg Beigang ua-cam.com/video/EyRzqiF56-o/v-deo.html I have one question regarding rail blocks: How did you bolted rail blocks on the bottom of X axis? they are square type (without flange) - so must be bolted from the top of block Are you using some long bolts to tighten from top side of X axis?
That's not shown in the vid. They are bolted on an aluminum plate, which is bolted to the button plate of the x axis. In the button plate of the x axis are some bigger holes to make room for the heads of the screws. Hope that's more or less understandable
@@joergbeigang And yet one question: how you assembled axis: install blocks with adapted plate, align them, tighten bolts, take off plate with blocks, screw it to X axis and install whole axis assembly on rails, right? isn't it complicated to fit blocks on rails while holding whole X axis?
Exactly. Adjusting it square to y was pain in the bum. Bearing blocks with flanges would have been more straightforward and would have saved 10mm in height.
almost viewers knows drilling process... Just dril one hole balance holes mute it un neccessory things.... Be matured Ur giving more important to Silly things Don'tshow 100% of Drilling... it's not is not so much important to us
Epoxy after few cycles of temperature alterations bonds faster. Mechanical dimensions probably would be better if temperature changes slowly, in controlled conditions. Please note, that epoxy could directly make good threads.
I was even lazier, got some rails with threads on them (same price) from HiWin, put on some threads and then made the epoxy bed on top of those, didn't even had to thread. GREAT dimensional accuracy BTW. picked up the flatness from the granite table efortlessly and haven't had a problem.
Used some rails with bottom fasteners (screws go from the bottom), screwed it in place and then just poured the epoxy on top. fasteners served as anchors only, used also some nuts to add tension to the load and counter-screw them to the rail.
Nice progress on your machine. Happy that you learned your lesson on respecting what a table saw can do with loose pieces in front of the blade.
Mark
Moving along nice to watch the build continue. Lets get her dialed in.
Lance & Patrick.
great demonstration why the best machines are so expensive. not only are they precise in 1D, but in 2D as well as 3D, across all temperature conditions.
This is a great series. But it really needs a narration, explaining what you are doing, what choices you made, and why you made them.
Awesome work! I'm about to start converting my G0704 to full linear rails and your work is a great inspiration. I'm going to try and film the process, but we'll see how that goes...
Don't get inspired too much. Don't know yet how it's gonna perform...
Looking forward following your build!
@@joergbeigang I'm sure yours will turn out just fine! I've already done my z axis and it was a huge improvement, so I've got a little experience under my belt.
I've been following along with your build, great job 👍👍
The test at 9:35 .. the scrawny swivel/articulated arm is nowhere stiff enough to be able to properly accomodate the forces from a 1/1000 dial indicator.. the whole arm simply flexes too much... use a different more rigid method or buy a hydraulic arm/stand (HG) (or an oversized NOGA like articulated arm mag stand).. anyway an awesome awesome machine that should make some nice chips soon :)
I observed that as well on the footage. The stand is indeed pretty flimsy. But it's somehow amazing how accurate it's flexing. I mean it moves tenth of millimeters and the results are all in a range of 1/100 millimeter.
For sure I gotta find a better solution for that. And I'm happy that you like my build!
Nice work. I am excited how good the milling results will be later. So far I think you did a really good Job!
Thanks. Same here, can't wait to see if it was worth all the effort
@@joergbeigang Well, it will be at least as good as all the other aluminum routers. I am more excited how much better it will be. Keep on going with that good work.
I see why when you cutting the aluminum on the table saw, you had full protection.. it has happen to me before too
has happen what?
Those repeat readings are pretty sick for a homebuild machine O.O even for a bought one i would consider this superb
can see the indicator mount flexing in the video when doing your positioning tests :x
10:04 Looks like the table is hitting the indicator holder.
lol
Awesome build. Great to see how you managed to build this without using a mill at least for accurately boring small components. How did you manage to dial in the ballscrew and servo mount with the rails ? Did you use shims or the like ? Granite epoxy builds are becoming more and more common with cheap linear rails and ballscrews, it's exciting to see how it's enabling builders to literally build machines from scratch.
Thanks. The bearings of the ball screws and the mounts of the motors are sitting on 5mm spacers. Thouse I filed, sanded and lapped till the ball screw was parallel to the rails. Sure not the fastest way, but it worked...
@@joergbeigang Yope, just watched your previous videos. Well, that's what you do when you can't mill them flat. Have a look at my chanel, I'm retrofitting an existing lathe with centroid controls. A bigger mill will sure be the next build, been watching granite / epoxy for a while now. I would love to make one from square steel tubes stuffed with e/g.
I'm searching for fittings with M6x0.75 thread for lubrication as you did, seems to be H20 like mine, do you remember where you get them ?
Which lubricant did you use ?
What are the blue tubes at 2:38? Air feed to prevent dust and swarf entering? Or?
For oil. Without them it would be pretty hard to reach the bearings when the machine is assembled.
Epoxy after few cycles of temperature alterations bonds faster. Mechanical dimensions probably would be better if temperature changes slowly, in controlled conditions. Please note, that epoxy could directly make good threads.
More rigid than my Precision Matthew PM45M(CNC from factory). You have a great start it's just the details like backlash and spindle quality that will make or break you.
Worst case I could swap the ball screws later on. It's difficult for me to tell the effect of each parameter. I'm doing this the first time and experience can't be replaced.
Oh man, that was scary.I hope you didn't get hurt, very nice project.
What do gou think about doing a summary video with narration?
Condense all these build videos into maybe 25-35 minutes and actually talk about what you're doing and why. I'd watch frim beginning to end and a couple of the parts I was confused on, it could provide some clarification.
But excellent work. Looking forward to more!
Good point. I can understand that it's not always that easy to follow, also because I only recorded a small part of the actual work and often I was working around problems which are not that obvious.
Making a summary video is of course a good idea, but it's also time consuming. And time is the crucial point here. I'm pretty busy at work plus I'm also renovating a house I recently bought. But it's definitely on my to do list.
Cant wait for the first chip
What is the working space of your machine ?
Qual motor nema ele esta usando, e quantos kg esse motor aguenta???
Could you share where you purchased the grease fittings and tube?
the nipples were mounted on the linear bearings, I replaced them there with the quick release fittings for the tubes. I bought all that stuff online, could have been ebay, can't really remember. If you google for pneumatic tube and quick release you'll find plenty.
What engine is it using??? how many kg can it hold???
Excellent work!
Hi Nice video,
Wat is the stick you are using on the circular saw, I guess for lubrication.
Exactly. It's made for tapping, but does a pretty good job on the saw blade as well.
Which Linear guide blocks are these, is that cooling or lubrication you feeding them. Great build!
Lube
Awesome dude! Are the plates the rails are resting on alu or steel?
They're aluminum cause I'm not really having the tools to cut steel precisely enough (got basically only a handsaw and an angle grinder). Hope they'll do.
This is a really cool build. What did you use for the plates? Was it steel or aluminium?
I used aluminum. Which is good for the plates, but terrible for the Z-assembly
What are you using to grease your table saw? Looks like a neat time-saving and versatile option to use the table saw for aluminium :-)
It's tapping grease. And it's a special saw blade for aluminum. Every second tooth is a tiny little bit longer and got chamfered sides. And of course the angle of the teeth is less aggressive compared to a saw blade for wood.
Do you giggle a little inside when you see an 8040 extrusion cnc mill?
Not at all. Was my first idea as well. Was drawing a few extrusion based designs in cad the last years. But wasn't convinced enough to actually start building one. And with this epoxy granite design I actually made, there was also the challenge of trying something new and see if it works out the way I imagined it.
For me it's more about learning new things and pushing my own limits then comparing my machine to other home made ones.
In the end there not only a machine, there are also new skills and experiences. Both quite handy for future projects :-)
Be careful, brother, nothing is more important than safety.
Береги себя =)
How is the accuracy and preload of the ball screw?
Got no idea. Cheap Chinese one...
Joerg Beigang
The fixed accuracy is great. I also make it. Although it is a DLP printer.
How many stitches did you need?
Where did you source the slotted table or did you make your own?
Bought it on Amazon I think. But it's for sure a weak point. One day I should put at least 20 mm solid aluminum under it
Which class are your ballscrews? As long as repeatability is there you can map inaccuracies in software to deal with that as the machine mills.
The project is looking great, well done.
I honestly don't know which class they are. The whole build is on a budget, so I bought cheap Chinese ones. To compensate the backlash in the control software would be an option. I just figured that Glass scales are absolutely affordable. Creating a control loop with that and linuxcnc sounds very interesting to me. I just didn't find anything about hobbyists using them.
Wonder why. Anyway these are things to keep myself busy in the future. First of all I wanna get it working at all.
Joerg Beigang check out “metalmusings” he uses glass scales with Linux cnc
I love the table saw hack. Noice.
link to steppers?
8:22 looks like the perfect opportunity to lose a fingertip. With just a 1 cm gap, this could have been avoided. Never invite these things by design - and if there's a cover on later, it'll get you that one time you're operating it without.
Do you plan on using a counterweight for the z axis?
No, I'll try without first. It's not too heavy so far, I mean it's not moving down on its own
Can you please tell me what n.m of the servo did you used ?
Can't remember exactly. They are some Chinese nema 24 closes loop steppers. I think they should be all the same, just labeled differently
Yeah but i want to know the amp exectly what its needed for job
I want to know the amp or n.m power
Is it nema 24 566 onzz power motor ? And can i use nema 23 4A closed loop servo too ?
Google for "hss60 nema 24".
Think it's 3nm. But that's more a theoretical value.
I hope all is well .. we use dangerous tools and despite the expertise and attention we must always pay attention.
All fine here. Usually I know when to expect a kick back, but this time I was pretty surprised. Guess the dull saw blade did is part as well. Gotta get it sharpened. One of the biggest risks is routine. Doing the same thing often enough and at one point paying less attention is just natural.
please someone explain for me what's the purpose of those air hosing?
They are for lubrication
@@joergbeigang thank you very much, are they mandatory?
@@MohammadRezaSiam without I couldn't reach the Grease nipples anymore. So they are moved to a point where they can be comfortably reached.
@@joergbeigang thanks man, appreciate your reply.
Hi. @Joerg Beigang
ua-cam.com/video/EyRzqiF56-o/v-deo.html
I have one question regarding rail blocks:
How did you bolted rail blocks on the bottom of X axis?
they are square type (without flange) - so must be bolted from the top of block
Are you using some long bolts to tighten from top side of X axis?
That's not shown in the vid. They are bolted on an aluminum plate, which is bolted to the button plate of the x axis. In the button plate of the x axis are some bigger holes to make room for the heads of the screws. Hope that's more or less understandable
@@joergbeigang Ah. got it. thank you!
@@joergbeigang And yet one question:
how you assembled axis:
install blocks with adapted plate, align them, tighten bolts, take off plate with blocks, screw it to X axis and install whole axis assembly on rails, right?
isn't it complicated to fit blocks on rails while holding whole X axis?
Exactly. Adjusting it square to y was pain in the bum. Bearing blocks with flanges would have been more straightforward and would have saved 10mm in height.
Kickback is no fun and it’s even more so when cutting aluminum
Did you hurt ?
No, all good :-)
@@joergbeigang If you want to machine metal, you still need to fix it with a clamp. Good luck. Very like your cnc machine .
kickback is no joke.
this is nice
stepper is the worst thing you can use for a table router its like using a 3d fdm printer with a spindle on it to mill aluminium
You OK?
Sure I am :-)
😲😲😀😀👍
Nice diagnostic with the inaccurate stepper motor!
Yes that is rigid enough.
GREAT JOB, BUT, USING THE WRONG TOOLS. YOU CAN'T USE A CIRCULAR SAW, WHEN YOU SHOULD BE USING A MILLING MACHINE !!!!!
your index finger has 8 more lives..
Omg!!!
I think that's the worst kickback that I have seen on UA-cam.
.
Don't do fast-forward.....
Viewing is too much painful to our eyes
almost viewers knows drilling process... Just dril one hole balance holes mute it un neccessory things.... Be matured
Ur giving more important to Silly things
Don'tshow 100% of Drilling...
it's not is not so much important to us
Good stuff
But Bad editing
Epoxy after few cycles of temperature alterations bonds faster. Mechanical dimensions probably would be better if temperature changes slowly, in controlled conditions. Please note, that epoxy could directly make good threads.
I was even lazier, got some rails with threads on them (same price) from HiWin, put on some threads and then made the epoxy bed on top of those, didn't even had to thread. GREAT dimensional accuracy BTW. picked up the flatness from the granite table efortlessly and haven't had a problem.
Used some rails with bottom fasteners (screws go from the bottom), screwed it in place and then just poured the epoxy on top. fasteners served as anchors only, used also some nuts to add tension to the load and counter-screw them to the rail.