This video documents steps I've taken to replace the PCV on a 2013 Camry SE, which is equipped with 2AR-FE. Very similar steps can be taken on RAV4 with 2ARFE engine.
No kidding, It used to be 5 minute work at most. At least PCV around $12, many German cars, PCV is built into valve cover, and entire thing has to be replaced for $150-$300 just for the part.
@@jimmydoan007 To be honest, my PCV also sat for nearly one year because I was intimidated. LOL The first challenge I had was, there is no way to unclamp the PCV hose. So I just pulled in it hard from the top of the car, and it came off with about 20-30 pounds of pulling. The second trouble was, PCV bolted on really tight. I think they used locktite. I had to pull really hard on the ratchet, and it took about 50-60 pounds of pressure to loosen it. After that PCV unscrewed easily. The 3rd challenge was, trying to screw in the new PCV with the socket. It turns out my finger can easily reach the PCV and starting the threading by hand was much easier. After that it was easy to tighten it with socket and ratchet. Fourth challenge was, how to put the hose back on. But it turned out the hose went back in without much pressure. I was thinking of coating the end of the PCV with oil for the hose to go in easily but that was totally unnecessary. So there are challenges, but if you follow these tricks I mentioned, it becomes much easier work. Good luck.
Great video, thank you! Short step-by-step: UNDERSIDE: -lift and secure right-front side -remove wheel -unplug sensor (cover both ends with painters tape) -use 10mm socket to remove sensor bracket TOP SIDE: -remove 2nd side of PCV hose - behind the engine, same side as removed wheel UNDERSIDE: -pull on PCV hose - it will eventually come off, even with clamp on - wiggle and pull -use 19mm socket (CRAFTSMAN CMMT44436) + about 4" extension + flex-joint ratchet -PCV valve may require some force to move at first, then it will unscrew just with fingertips -reach in and thread in new PCV valve by hand - yes, it's the best way -tighten using the same socket/extension/ratchet setup as removal - do not overtighten -mount hose back in it's place -with clamp on TOP SIDE: -mount 2nd side of PCV hose UNDERSIDE: -reinstall sensor bracket -remove tape and connect sensor -install wheel and torque per specs DONE! Thank you again, great video. Took me a lot longer than it should, hopefully this write-up will help some!
This is one of the best videos on a part that cannot be seen. I removed PCV from 2014 camry with the help of your video. Just like you, I was unable to install a OEM replacement since the threads on the replacement are not tapered like the original. I got big hands and thick wrists which made accessing that much more difficult. Once removed, I cleaned the old PCV with carb cleaner and reinstalled it and the car ran awesome with all DTC's cleared. The removal , clean and reinstall took me a good afternoon. One other comment - the reinstall process made the removal seemed easy. Thank you. 👍
I did this on my friend’s Venza with the same engine, and sure enough the one I bought from online shown in this video didn’t fit. But I had him purchase one from the Toyota dealer and that one fit. I’m speculating maybe the online purchase was a fake one.
Great Video with excellent camera angles of the PCV!! Also, a presentation showing different combination of sockets and ratchets was very helpful too. I got the PCV and will replace it this coming week. Thanks again!!
Very good video. The right side is the passenger side on all N. American vehicles. It is determined via sitting in the car looking forward for all vehicles around the world. So that is not the left side of the vehicle.
All I remember is on old Toyotas, PCV was very accessible, and replacing it was as simple as an air filter change, but no longer on these 4 cylinder engines. After doing it, it looks for scary (mainly due to lack of visibility) than it really ended up being.
Did it on my 2.7 ar-fe highlander and this job is doable, but it takes much much longer time. I also dropped mine multiple times, but then using just my fingers without the socket I was able to locate and finger tight the PCV. The hose was also a pain to pull off, but the best approach to gettting it on for the highlander was by extending my arm from under the car.
Good job. Yup that’s exactly my experience. For the hose, I just pulled in it hard and it came off with the clamp on it. And using my hand/fingers directly to screw PCV few turns worked better than trying with socket. Also I worried about getting the hose back in, but it went back in without much trouble.
What if you drilled the old one out. After removing it. Turn it into a port, to put an extension hose to the upper part of the engine bay. And put the new valve nearer the top for easy excess to replace the valve ole school... relocating the PVC valve. Family member has a 2016, light footed driver but the oil gets dirty way before the oil change interval. Toyota service says it's clogged PVC valve or system. So the oil is getting contaminates from gasoline in the blow by. Making it dirty sooner than it scheduled oil change. Best video on the subject you have produced thank you that made me think relocation.
That's very very interesting idea. Drilling will not seal this vacuum line tightly, but if you can find a small metal pipe that is size of PCV with pass through hole in the middle but can match the threads so that you can screw into the PCV hole, then you could splice the vacuum line and move the PCV to better reachable location. Toyota engineers should have thought of that, instead of hiding this in invisible location. I'm gonna have to give this some thought. If you find a way, please let me know. That said, I came to a clear understanding that 10K miles oil change is so bad for engines. This is what's leading to the 3rd piston ring (oil ring), from working properly. Basically, the 3rd oil ring is supposed to scrape the oil from the cylinder wall, and push it through the small holes around the 3rd ring, but those small holes get clogged with carbon, and oil can't be cleanly scraped off the cylinder wall. And that left over oil is burned during combustion, hence "burning oil". This also leads to faster clogging of PCV and catalytic converter contamination and premature failure. I come to learn that the best way to solve all oil related problems is to do 3K-5K mile oil changes with cheaper conventional oil. The long lasting synthetic oil can works in theory, but not with small oil holes on piston getting clogged. I'm immediately doing 3K-5K mile oil changes now.
Good video! However, buy a new pcv valve, or fix the damaged threads on your old New one. Years ago i had a 1988 Chevrolet Astro and I took out the old PCV valve and cleaned like you did. Two weeks later i smelled some oil burning Under the hood. Close inspection showed that the rocker cover gasket had blown out. I checked the pcv valve and found it was totally frozen together and it no longer rattled. I saved $3 by not replacing it and now had a $10 gasket to replace, it took me 3 hours to do. I replace a pcv valve every 60,000 miles and always have a spare in the glove box. Most pcv valves are easy to replace, this one is very difficult, but can be done the way you show here. Thanks…Jim
Yeah that Amazon purchase was probably a fake OEM. One I bought at Toyota dealer afterwards fit right in smoothly. For a long time, Toyota and Lexus has easiest PCV change, but this one they hid it well. It’s actually not too bad, but it’s more intimidating because you are replacing a part that you can see it directly and have to do it by the feel of the hand. :-)
Once weather cools in October, I’m gonna soak the pistons with Chem-dip to clean the carbon build up on pistons. Last time I replaced the spark plugs, I used a borescope to confirm descent amount of carbon build up. I want to clean it before it gets worse and clog up the piston oil ring.
@@DIYLifeSkills I purchased my Toyota pcv valve on line from a Toyota dealer and paid $11 and I ordered other things to minimize the shipping costs. Locally an aftermarket pcv valve (probably from China) was just about the same price. I have found dealerships all over that are willing to discount for on line purchases. Thanks…Jim PS…..I purchase all my Toyota oem oil filters this way, but I buy 6….with shipping it’s about $5.50 each.
@@jimpie231 I also bought 5 Toyota and Lexus OEM oil filters for each of the cars I have have. They were $5-6 each, which was similar to cheap after market filters.
Before I swapped PCV, I had to take many videos blindly up near PCV so that I can determine whether I can and want to do this. It was bit disturbing to attempt it without being able to see it. But once I could see on video where it is and how it’s sitting, and after confirming that arm can reach there without much struggle, I concluded it can’t to too hard to unscrew PCV and screw it back in. The only trouble was the new (possibly fake OEM fromAmazon) PCV wouldn’t screw in though the old one screwed back in just fine. Or it could the starting treads were slightly damaged from dropping it several times. In any case, a new one I bought from Toyota dealer did fit just fine later. And dealer price for PCV was nearly same as Amazon one. So I recommend buying it from local Toyota dealer if you can.
@@thomas9469 Yeah, older Toyotas had PCV typically on top of the valve cover, which made it very easy to replace, but looks like Toyota now places the PCV closer to the location where it can vacuum out the leftover combustion fumes more efficiently.
Excellent video, great attention to detail. Instead of this job, I'd just change the oil to 5w-30 instead of 0w-20 and see if the problem is solved. If the engine still consumes excessive oil (almost a quart per 1000 miles, i.e. from high dipstick mark to low), then I will try the PCV change, but if that is the case, its most likely shot oil rings. Last resort, try oil change with a detergent wash in between and that might save the day, otherwise its an engine rebuild. I have heard the RESTORE can also unlock stuck oil rings, haven't tried though.
So it turns out that while 10K mile oil change is convenient, according to the Toyota master tech (Cat Care Nut UA-camr), dirty old oil is the number one reason for second piston (oil) ring area to get clogged. Since the tiny holes around the oil ring that is supposed to scrape down the oil from the cylinder wall ain’t happening, oil gets burned off during combustion. This is why cars that are not leaking oil still loses oil. Therefore, his recommendation was to change oil every 5K miles instead and I’m now doing that all my cars.
@@DIYLifeSkills Great advice. My only concern is that, while it will work for a lot, it may not be required for everyone, and it will unnecessarily create tons of environmental pollution by discarding good oil that could have been used for a few thousand miles more. That is why I am a huge proponent of software based OLM (oil life monitors) that all German, US and Honda cars offer. It takes into account the driving conditions (several parameters) and reduces or increases the oil change interval e.g. some BMW owners have reported that their oil change intervals have been as low as 2000 miles and as long as 12000 miles. Its a fascinating technology and Toyota should adopt it too.
@@akhaqan Oil level monitoring sensor would be great. In fact, also the transmission fluid level monitoring sensor as well. I don't trust the "life time" trans fluid story.
Just changed mine on a 2012 camry se. At 143k miles, the hose didn't make it! Honestly, the gingle on the valve wasn't all that different, but im not gonna chance it. She was burning some oil between oil changes. Threading that valve in was a real treat 😂
Yes, and no. The pcv valve is nice and snug, but the hose did split at both ends. So at 8:30 pm, and needing to use her in rhe morning i just jammed the bad hose back on. The barb ended up being a hair past the split, so i just clamped directly behind the barb. Already ordered the oem hose online and will be replacing that today after work. U bet I'll be putting some grease or oil on the end of that barb for a smoother install/extraction. But it's safe to say, after 140k the hose had little hope to last that long before getting brittle. Also worth noting, my local toyota dealership at 6/17/24 is charging $33.48 in house, and 20.89 on there online store...@DIYLifeSkills
@@danielscott9137 very pricey for short piece of hose, but I guess if it lasts 140k miles, it’s not too bad. Also my local Toyota dealer also posts cheaper online price but you have to order and wait a day or 2 for them out the order together. And then, they charged $10 bucks for online order handling fee, so online order is only good if you are buying many or expensive part but it can end up being actually more expensive on cheap parts so the handling fee.
Alright gotter dun, had to use needle nose pliers to add some persuasion on the hose. I realy like that idea someone wrote to use a small length of hose to put on the pcv valve to add some length to thread the valve in. I'll definitely do that next time.
@@DIYLifeSkillsagreed, the position ur left in is so odd it's tough to thread it in flush. Doable, but nothing I'd like to repeat but once a year or few!
For a 2019 Camry Hybrid LE, is the PCV Valve a 1 hour job or a 4 hour job? My dealership said that for some cars, it is 30 minutes to an hour, and for other cars, it is a 4 hour job.
Does this style of PCV valve really go bad? I can understand them getting clogged, but is there some sort of valve seat which wears out due to repeated movement of the internals?
It’s the oil and carbon that gets built up inside that gradually restricts the valve from opening and closing fully. You could just clean it with carbon cleaner, but the part being so cheap like $10~ish, it’s just better to replace it. This simple and cheap part can actually cause all sorts of damages if it’s clogged. There are many UA-cam videos on bad PCV that you can check out. Actual steps are simple, it’s just the restricted space that makes it bit challenging. But if you closely follow details of my explanations, this can be done within one hour.
Unfortunately my 11 Camry LE is verrry different with hydraulic power steering pump right there at 2:10 right by that wire / crankshaft sensor ( I think that’s what it is ) on the left side of crankshaft pulley . Can’t do it that way. And for that reason I don’t think I can get from the top .. some Facebook mechanics groups have said I gotta remove the intake manifold. Geez 😬
Yeah I’ve seen some videos about difficulty to change PCV on 2011 Camry. What a terrible location and design by Toyota. To replace $12 simple part, one would have to pay several hundred dollars to get it done as it’s in hard to reach that requires removal of other parts.
I believe service manual has it as a big job, and of course DIY-er like me figure out an easy way to do it. This is about 30 minute work where most of time is spent on trying to reach PCV blindly by the feel of the fingers. I'm no mechanic, and I did it as well as many others. It's more intimidating than it actually is.
What if you have a power steering pump in the way of that location? My 2010 Camry is going to be so much more difficult. I'm not looking forward to this job.
Yeah your generation Camry is pretty big work for casual home DIY-er. If you had the need to replace the power steering pump, then you can tackle it together at home or shop, but it’s a big work for $12 part replacement.
Can I just remove the PCV hose from the back side and pour a little sea foam or carb cleaner down the hose and let it sit a bit to dry and call it a day?
I was thinking maybe pouring some sea foam into the tube and letting it marinate in the valve would be a possible solution too as these valves don’t go bad as much as they just get dirty
@@erikkongslien4904 Yup. I’ve seen Toyota PCV get cut open and it’s nothing more than spring valve that just get clogged with oil sludge and some carbon. Arguably, they can be just cleaned. It’s just that Toyota PCVs are so cheap ($10) so it’s just as easy to just swap it.
Good video! Thanks! I’m thinking about using a flexible tubing attached to the valve head as extension for hand threading start. Just wondering if a torque wrench can be used to get correct tightening. Also, maybe using a small size wrench (1/4”) with extension(s) and adaptor will help better.
You can reach by hand to start threading. And as long as you use flex head ratchet or universal joint, it’s very accessible. It’s more intimidating to look at the video then when you actually do it.
Others have also reported that PCV is on their really tight. I felt like I was going to break it. That’s how tight it was. They may have applied thread lock. I’ve replaced PCV in over a dozen cars and never seen anything that tight. It’ll help to use a breaker bar to loosen it. After one or two full turns, you can unscrew it by hand.
Lastly, if you watched the video, you’ll note that new PCV didn’t want to thread in. Now I strongly believe it’s a fake OEM part. Because I ordered the new part number and they sent me the old part number and it’s black color, when it should be metal color. The dealer was only $2 more expensive, so be sure to get it from Toyota dealer. I’m learning that there are so many fake OEM merchandise in eBay and even on Amazon.
Thanks so much. I did remove the wheel and the cover and looked at the area but found it impossible to reach the PCV hose. I worried that even if I could pull out the hose and remove the valve I would not be able to do the installation.
It’ll help loosen the oil sludge build up but that won’t get it completely clean. If you remove it and spray and shake it, that’ll get more sludge out. But given that PCV is only 10-12 bucks it’s best to replace it.
I don’t have that vehicle so I wouldn’t know precisely. But I did some googling and looks like 2018 still uses slight variant 2AR engine, so I’m thinking, it might be in similar location???
I keep my oils so clean!,never have problem with pcv valve If pcv valve clogged ,,, engine must be really dirty Change synthetic oils ow20 every 6 months or 5000 miles on 2015 scion tc
You are doing good. These 10K oil changes are slowly ruing engines as carbon clogs the piston’s oil ring. But since PCV is so cheap (~$10-15 for OEM) compared to the high value it provides, it’s still good replace them somewhere between 50k to 100k depending on condition of the car.
I would only replacement it with a new one , never to " clean " it . And no mater what , replace hose and clamps . Example is on newer Toyota Camrys to officially remove intake manifold , too expensive . Or to remove the passenger side fron tire . Remove plastic tire fender well cover and some bracket . And still not able to easily get to it , but by feel . This why I say to replace hose and clamps .
@DIYLifeSkills I currently don't have an obd scanner, but I took it to autozone, and they claim the pcv valve to be the cause of the CEL light. My finances aren't the best, so I'm waiting until I get paid to get a scanner, which won't be probably until next week. That's what I'm going off right now as the main cause of the CEL light. I barely bought the car a few days ago from a private owner, and it seems to have everything in emmaculate condition except for the CEL light. No rust. Everything has oem parts except the first cylinder ignition coil is (in house) aftermarket from a popular parts store.
@@pugchench4443 Auto part stores will tell you the code(s) if you ask. Some even print it out for you. Get the numbers as it'll be important to determine the source.
@DIYLifeSkills Thank you! I did not know that. They just handed me a print-out claiming a pcv valve as the CEL cause. It was a really busy day that day so much so that I should have asked for more information such as that one you're telling me about. The printout did not show any dtcs
PCV sucks out exhaust fumes to both relieve extremely high pressure in the crankcase, and to reroute unburned air-fuel mixture back into the intake system to prevent environment pollution. The valve inside the PCV eventually gets fouled with oil sludge and doesn't properly open or close. When this happens, the high pressure in the crankcase is not relieved, so that pressure finds weakest point to release the pressure, and that usually leads to leaking oil and/or gas through internal or external gaskets. This is only ~$10 part and reasonable DIY work at home, so I suggest replacing it regularly. You can find many videos on the importance of PCV function on UA-cam.
Ever since I bought this car brand new, I do proactive maintenance versus waiting for problem to take action on this car . Therefore, it’s hard to notice any major differences since it was running pretty good as is. However, the only thing that I could notice slightly is smoother idle after MAF and TB cleaning so far. I only have about 75K miles on this car since my wife hardly drives it. That said, I’ll be doing oil changes everyday 5K miles vs 10K as suggested because I found that 10k mile oil change is number one reason the 3rd oil piston area gets clogged with carbon and can’t scrape the oil in the piston cylinder down to crankcase, hence it leads to oil burning on this engine.
What year and how many miles? I had to pull on the hose pretty hard from the top of the car as described in the video using both of my hands. When I worked on 2004 Highlander with over 200K miles to replace the valve cover, I had to remove bunch of rubber hoses and some of the coolant hoses had hardened so much that they broke like hard plastic rather than being a flexible rubber hose. This is because hot coolant runs through it. And hot exhaust gas also runs through PCV hose so there is a chance that hose became too hard and is no longer flexible. Try to squeeze the hose and see it still has flexible rubbery feel, then I’d you pull on it hard it should pop out. If the hose feels hard and brittle, then pulling on it could break the hose.
@@DIYLifeSkills I tried like the video but my hands don't fit... I'm buying some long reach hose clamp players as a last resort to see if I can get it off... If not then I guess 300 dollars for the stealership
PCV is located in an area that is not visible to the eye. When I was removing it it felt like it was on there permanently. I think factory may have applied threadlock glue. I would just tighten it to about 15-20 ft/lbs torque since that’s typical Toyota PCV torque.
It is very difficult to reach inside to do that, and the clamp is sort of a joke. It’s on there very loosely. So I just pulled out the hose with the clamp on from the top (as shown in the video), but to put the hose back on, I did it from the bottom of the car. Hose part is not too difficult. Just pull on it hard to pull it out but it went in without any struggle. Hope that helps and good luck.
PCVs fail often, but doesn't prevent starting the car or driving for Toyota/Lexus. On some German cars (like the VW Jetta I had), their PCV is often built into the valve cover, and uses diaphragm design that tears, and throws off the air/fuel mixture and can lead to misfire and check engine light. Toyota/Lexus on the other, due to the PCV design, once PCV fails, the engine is left with extremely high pressure since PCV is not pulling that pressurized air out, it eventually leads to oil/coolant gasket leak. Also, when high pressure combustion air is not extracted by PCV, your engine internal will accumulate carbon and oil gunks more quickly. While Toyota/Lexus cars cn be driven for a long time with failed PCV, there will be degradation in gas mileage and performance, and increase oil consumption. I think it's good to chance Toyota PCV at least once 100K miles, for much high mileage cars, perhaps every 50K miles. It's only $10-12 for the OEM part, so it's worth it. In older cars, changing PCV was very simple, but now, its in hidden location, so that's the only bad thing.
@@DIYLifeSkills me personally most times when a car has oil consumption issues changing the PCV valve does nothing. Those cars with PCV valves built into the valve cover are a major pain
@@AwesomenessIskey Yeah once the piston oil control rings are carboned up, PCV change ain’t going to help. So it’s important to do regular oil changes and to make sure PCV functions correctly to slow down the piston rings getting clogged with carbon. It’s unavoidable but we can help to slow it down. Yup those valve cover PCVs are expensive to replace and they don’t last as long as Toyota PCVs.
One arm can reach there to screw the PCV, the problem was the new PCV wouldn’t thread in. The old one threaded in just fine, so I suspect that PCV was a fake OEM. The OEM PCV I bought from Toyota dealership in person threaded in just fine.
My Camry 2016 is losing oil! Might be partly clogged PCV valve .. hate to pay for all this work for cheap part .. but not able to do this myself. This loud fast music is WAY ANNOYING! Distracting while trying to concentrate on the content of the video .. the instructions, the visual.
Hey just checking back to see if you replaced the PCV yet? If not, see if you find a handy buddy who likes to work on a car. How many miles do you have on the car and how much oil are you losing? Dealer says it's normal to burn 1 quart of oil for every 1000 to 1500 miles. BTW, I've been adjusting background music volume down as the output background sound comes out little louder than when I'm editing and testing.
Anyone able to get the black pcv valve on vs the metal color? I ordered mine from a Toyota dealer, and the one they gave me is black. I am worried it won’t fit.
@@DIYLifeSkills Good to know. Thank you! Based on your experience do you think a clogged pcv can affect the idle? I cleaned maf sensor, intake, changed plugs and coils and even used fuel system cleaner, and the idle sometimes dips too low and almost stalls the car.
@@ddk80 Yes definitely, but that would require a completely clogged PCV. PCV is cheap, though pain in the butt to replace. Also even small crack in any vacuum line will cause engine to run and idle rough and could stop the engine. So check all vacuum lines and make sure they are all plugged in correctly and hoses are not cracked.
@@ddk80 Also dirty fuel filter or fuel injectors will cause erratic idle and poor performance and gas mileage. Fuel filter is under the rear-seat, and for fuel injectors, there are many cleaners that you can try. It's bit of work to remove them to clean it.
If you are leaking oil, then likely some gasket needs to be replaced. If you are burning oil without leaking, then new PCV may help some, but most likely it's the worn or clogged piston rings. There are some products that claim to remove carbon build up on piston rings, but I'm not sure how effective they are.
Is ez diy? 2014 camry. I change spark plug Oil change. Transmission oil change brake pad. Drive belt self. I dont know i can handle pcv change. Since cant b seen Shop charge 3 hr labor.
It’s doable DIY. Just not having clear view makes it intimidating. Just follow what I did. I did it on two cars. Get OEM PCV from a Toyota dealer. The one I bought from Amazon I think was a fake OEM as threads didn’t fit.
As any car get older and more blow by get pass the rings, there will be more crankcase fumes to foul the PCV valve , making valve service intervals shorter and shorter. It is not a fixed 30,40,000 miles. It can be an annual thing to do. newer cars now burn more oil right from the factory than cars in the past because the engineers had long ago picked all the low hanging fruit and are at a point of diminishing return,trying to improve gas mileage, only people that do not know this are the gov regulators.Switching to electric vehicles is an equally bad solution.
@@neriorus The location is actually good for PCV to vacuum out post combustion fumes more efficiently than in top of the valve cover. But they could’ve at least move it little more for easier access. What’s intimidating is you can’t really see, but can feel it if you reach it with your hand. So it’s doable but just not like a few minutes of work like before when they had it on top of the engine.
Clogged PCV cause high pressure build up the crankcase and that eventually causes blow-by (meaning oil sips past piston rings causing oil loss. Also high crankcase pressure cause oil to eventually leak through the weakest points, which are gaskets. The worst is head gasket internally which will be expensive repair, but more often it’s the outer gaskets that’ll leak oil. Since PCV is cheap it’s always a good maintenance to do Avery 30k miles on older cars. That said, most likely oil consumption comes from worn piston rings. This is why it’s so important to change oil on recommend frequency and use good quality oil. If you are burning more than 1 quart of oil, it’s actually better to change oil every 3k miles using conventional (vs expensive synthetic) oil rather than filling a quart every 1k mile.
You may have a internal damage like cylinder walls and rings. You should perform a compression test on all cylinders and compare readings with specs. If that's out of specs the PCV would be a waste of your time and money.
@@mikek.9980 Yup, PCV can't fix clogged 3rd piston ring that scrapes oil back down to the crankcase. This is the common oil burning issue. But PCV is only $12 bucks and is a maintenance item, so it's not much loss to replace it.
Depends on the car condition. If it’s new, you can go 50k or more miles, if it’s over 100k miles, I would replace it every 30-50k miles or even earlier if you are burning or leaking oil.
You should also clean Mass Airflow sensor and Throttle Body regularly like 25k to 50k miles. Also change spark plug around 100k miles with identical OEM plugs.
Thanks Toyota! For several decades, changing PCV's was a walk in the park, now you turn it into a nightmare.
No kidding, It used to be 5 minute work at most. At least PCV around $12, many German cars, PCV is built into valve cover, and entire thing has to be replaced for $150-$300 just for the part.
Have you done it? It looks more intimidating because you can see it, but it’s actually not horrible now that I experienced it.
@@DIYLifeSkills your video encourages me to do it. PCV has been sitting in the garage for 3 years 😝. 2010 Camry has 165k and never been changed.
@@jimmydoan007 To be honest, my PCV also sat for nearly one year because I was intimidated. LOL
The first challenge I had was, there is no way to unclamp the PCV hose. So I just pulled in it hard from the top of the car, and it came off with about 20-30 pounds of pulling.
The second trouble was, PCV bolted on really tight. I think they used locktite. I had to pull really hard on the ratchet, and it took about 50-60 pounds of pressure to loosen it. After that PCV unscrewed easily.
The 3rd challenge was, trying to screw in the new PCV with the socket. It turns out my finger can easily reach the PCV and starting the threading by hand was much easier. After that it was easy to tighten it with socket and ratchet.
Fourth challenge was, how to put the hose back on. But it turned out the hose went back in without much pressure. I was thinking of coating the end of the PCV with oil for the hose to go in easily but that was totally unnecessary.
So there are challenges, but if you follow these tricks I mentioned, it becomes much easier work.
Good luck.
@@DIYLifeSkills thx
Great video, thank you!
Short step-by-step:
UNDERSIDE:
-lift and secure right-front side
-remove wheel
-unplug sensor (cover both ends with painters tape)
-use 10mm socket to remove sensor bracket
TOP SIDE:
-remove 2nd side of PCV hose - behind the engine, same side as removed wheel
UNDERSIDE:
-pull on PCV hose - it will eventually come off, even with clamp on - wiggle and pull
-use 19mm socket (CRAFTSMAN CMMT44436) + about 4" extension + flex-joint ratchet
-PCV valve may require some force to move at first, then it will unscrew just with fingertips
-reach in and thread in new PCV valve by hand - yes, it's the best way
-tighten using the same socket/extension/ratchet setup as removal - do not overtighten
-mount hose back in it's place -with clamp on
TOP SIDE:
-mount 2nd side of PCV hose
UNDERSIDE:
-reinstall sensor bracket
-remove tape and connect sensor
-install wheel and torque per specs
DONE!
Thank you again, great video. Took me a lot longer than it should, hopefully this write-up will help some!
I bet you were a good student in school. Excellent note taking. :-)
Yeah my first attempt also took longer than expected as well. But the second one I did on my friend’s car took about 40 minutes.
Thanks for the write up!
Excellent video! Thanks for all the detailed shots. Very helpful.
@@HouseDoctorRay Thansk for the feedback
This is one of the best videos on a part that cannot be seen. I removed PCV from 2014 camry with the help of your video. Just like you, I was unable to install a OEM replacement since the threads on the replacement are not tapered like the original. I got big hands and thick wrists which made accessing that much more difficult. Once removed, I cleaned the old PCV with carb cleaner and reinstalled it and the car ran awesome with all DTC's cleared. The removal , clean and reinstall took me a good afternoon. One other comment - the reinstall process made the removal seemed easy. Thank you. 👍
I did this on my friend’s Venza with the same engine, and sure enough the one I bought from online shown in this video didn’t fit. But I had him purchase one from the Toyota dealer and that one fit. I’m speculating maybe the online purchase was a fake one.
Did a bad pcv valve trigger the check engine light on this car?
The best video for a PCV valve for this kind of Camrys thank you very much sir!!!!!
Great Video with excellent camera angles of the PCV!! Also, a presentation showing different combination of sockets and ratchets was very helpful too. I got the PCV and will replace it this coming week. Thanks again!!
I was able to do this today. It wasn’t very easy, but it is possible. Thank you for the video
Which model and year of the car?
@@DIYLifeSkills 2013 Toyota Camry 4cyl
@@seanguy9720 Oh…identical to mine. :-)
Very good video.
The right side is the passenger side on all N. American vehicles. It is determined via sitting in the car looking forward for all vehicles around the world.
So that is not the left side of the vehicle.
Thank you for the great video! The Amazon PVC valve appears to be bigger in diameter, looking at the threaded end, compared to the OEM valve.
The one that I bought from the Toyota dealer vs. Amazon fit exactly. I suspect some online genuine parts may not be truly genuine OEM.
Is anyone else with me on how stupid the location of it is what is the purpose of it being down there. My anxiety level just went up really high.
No doubt Toyota did a very good job of hiding this so that you can’t even see it. LOL
German-like design...lol
@@Phil-D83 I agree with you 100%. The only way it could be even more German is if they made it out of plastic.
@@ddk80 Next thing you know they'll make it so you have to perform a PCV valve position relearn" procedure with a special scan tool. 🤣
Lol, but it's true, I think they smoked while they decided the place to put it.😂😂😂😂😂
Great thorough video. Reminds me of how difficult it was to change the starter a a 4WD Honda Civic Wagon.
All I remember is on old Toyotas, PCV was very accessible, and replacing it was as simple as an air filter change, but no longer on these 4 cylinder engines. After doing it, it looks for scary (mainly due to lack of visibility) than it really ended up being.
Thank you!..the video was so clear and helpfull...Excellent!!!
Thanks for the encouraging feedback sir.
Did it on my 2.7 ar-fe highlander and this job is doable, but it takes much much longer time. I also dropped mine multiple times, but then using just my fingers without the socket I was able to locate and finger tight the PCV. The hose was also a pain to pull off, but the best approach to gettting it on for the highlander was by extending my arm from under the car.
Good job. Yup that’s exactly my experience. For the hose, I just pulled in it hard and it came off with the clamp on it. And using my hand/fingers directly to screw PCV few turns worked better than trying with socket. Also I worried about getting the hose back in, but it went back in without much trouble.
@@DIYLifeSkills Thanks your video helped.
What if you drilled the old one out. After removing it.
Turn it into a port, to put an extension hose to the upper part of the engine bay. And put the new valve nearer the top for easy excess to replace the valve ole school... relocating the PVC valve.
Family member has a 2016, light footed driver but the oil gets dirty way before the oil change interval.
Toyota service says it's clogged PVC valve or system. So the oil is getting contaminates from gasoline in the blow by. Making it dirty sooner than it scheduled oil change. Best video on the subject you have produced thank you that made me think relocation.
That's very very interesting idea. Drilling will not seal this vacuum line tightly, but if you can find a small metal pipe that is size of PCV with pass through hole in the middle but can match the threads so that you can screw into the PCV hole, then you could splice the vacuum line and move the PCV to better reachable location. Toyota engineers should have thought of that, instead of hiding this in invisible location. I'm gonna have to give this some thought. If you find a way, please let me know.
That said, I came to a clear understanding that 10K miles oil change is so bad for engines. This is what's leading to the 3rd piston ring (oil ring), from working properly. Basically, the 3rd oil ring is supposed to scrape the oil from the cylinder wall, and push it through the small holes around the 3rd ring, but those small holes get clogged with carbon, and oil can't be cleanly scraped off the cylinder wall. And that left over oil is burned during combustion, hence "burning oil". This also leads to faster clogging of PCV and catalytic converter contamination and premature failure. I come to learn that the best way to solve all oil related problems is to do 3K-5K mile oil changes with cheaper conventional oil. The long lasting synthetic oil can works in theory, but not with small oil holes on piston getting clogged. I'm immediately doing 3K-5K mile oil changes now.
Just what I was thinking. Makes it easier for the future cleaning or replacement.
Thank you for the video. Gives me a general idea now.
Yes, great video, thanks..... will be using these tips and tricks for my replacement part!! :)
Get OEM PCV from Toyota dealership and let me know how it goes.
Nice job!!! Thanks for the helpful information.
me gusto mucho tu explicación, y ya me suscribi. sigue asi!!
I really liked your explanation, and I already subscribed. keep it up!!
Good video! However, buy a new pcv valve, or fix the damaged threads on your old New one. Years ago i had a 1988 Chevrolet Astro and I took out the old PCV valve and cleaned like you did. Two weeks later i smelled some oil burning Under the hood. Close inspection showed that the rocker cover gasket had blown out. I checked the pcv valve and found it was totally frozen together and it no longer rattled. I saved $3 by not replacing it and now had a $10 gasket to replace, it took me 3 hours to do. I replace a pcv valve every 60,000 miles and always have a spare in the glove box. Most pcv valves are easy to replace, this one is very difficult, but can be done the way you show here. Thanks…Jim
Yeah that Amazon purchase was probably a fake OEM. One I bought at Toyota dealer afterwards fit right in smoothly. For a long time, Toyota and Lexus has easiest PCV change, but this one they hid it well. It’s actually not too bad, but it’s more intimidating because you are replacing a part that you can see it directly and have to do it by the feel of the hand. :-)
Once weather cools in October, I’m gonna soak the pistons with Chem-dip to clean the carbon build up on pistons. Last time I replaced the spark plugs, I used a borescope to confirm descent amount of carbon build up. I want to clean it before it gets worse and clog up the piston oil ring.
@@DIYLifeSkills I purchased my Toyota pcv valve on line from a Toyota dealer and paid $11 and I ordered other things to minimize the shipping costs. Locally an aftermarket pcv valve (probably from China) was just about the same price. I have found dealerships all over that are willing to discount for on line purchases. Thanks…Jim
PS…..I purchase all my Toyota oem oil filters this way, but I buy 6….with shipping it’s about $5.50 each.
@@jimpie231 I also bought 5 Toyota and Lexus OEM oil filters for each of the cars I have have. They were $5-6 each, which was similar to cheap after market filters.
If I could give you 10 thumbs up than I would. Great detailed video. Thanks.
Thanks for the compliment! :-)
Camera angle better than professional acc’s
Before I swapped PCV, I had to take many videos blindly up near PCV so that I can determine whether I can and want to do this.
It was bit disturbing to attempt it without being able to see it. But once I could see on video where it is and how it’s sitting, and after confirming that arm can reach there without much struggle, I concluded it can’t to too hard to unscrew PCV and screw it back in. The only trouble was the new (possibly fake OEM fromAmazon) PCV wouldn’t screw in though the old one screwed back in just fine. Or it could the starting treads were slightly damaged from dropping it several times. In any case, a new one I bought from Toyota dealer did fit just fine later. And dealer price for PCV was nearly same as Amazon one. So I recommend buying it from local Toyota dealer if you can.
Man my machanic told me he can’t find the PCV. It was terrible pulling the horse on the Rav 4. Thanks.
Yeah Toyota hid the PCV well this time.
@@DIYLifeSkills the location is terrible. The old one was still shaking but put a new oem. Main reason I changed for oil burning. Thanks again.
@@thomas9469 Yeah, older Toyotas had PCV typically on top of the valve cover, which made it very easy to replace, but looks like Toyota now places the PCV closer to the location where it can vacuum out the leftover combustion fumes more efficiently.
@@DIYLifeSkills sounds good brother. Thanks.
2013 rav4 here, im replacing mine after church today.
Burning 1-1.5 qts every 1k miles
Curious if it helped? Having the same issue 😢
Excellent video, great attention to detail. Instead of this job, I'd just change the oil to 5w-30 instead of 0w-20 and see if the problem is solved. If the engine still consumes excessive oil (almost a quart per 1000 miles, i.e. from high dipstick mark to low), then I will try the PCV change, but if that is the case, its most likely shot oil rings. Last resort, try oil change with a detergent wash in between and that might save the day, otherwise its an engine rebuild. I have heard the RESTORE can also unlock stuck oil rings, haven't tried though.
So it turns out that while 10K mile oil change is convenient, according to the Toyota master tech (Cat Care Nut UA-camr), dirty old oil is the number one reason for second piston (oil) ring area to get clogged. Since the tiny holes around the oil ring that is supposed to scrape down the oil from the cylinder wall ain’t happening, oil gets burned off during combustion. This is why cars that are not leaking oil still loses oil. Therefore, his recommendation was to change oil every 5K miles instead and I’m now doing that all my cars.
@@DIYLifeSkills Great advice. My only concern is that, while it will work for a lot, it may not be required for everyone, and it will unnecessarily create tons of environmental pollution by discarding good oil that could have been used for a few thousand miles more. That is why I am a huge proponent of software based OLM (oil life monitors) that all German, US and Honda cars offer. It takes into account the driving conditions (several parameters) and reduces or increases the oil change interval e.g. some BMW owners have reported that their oil change intervals have been as low as 2000 miles and as long as 12000 miles. Its a fascinating technology and Toyota should adopt it too.
@@akhaqan Oil level monitoring sensor would be great. In fact, also the transmission fluid level monitoring sensor as well. I don't trust the "life time" trans fluid story.
Check out this video.. ua-cam.com/video/TJhFAwFv-O0/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TheCarCareNut
Yup that’s why I started doing 5K mile oil change
I have 2011 Camry. Do you know the hose part number? Don’t want to start this job without new hose
It's different part number for different models.
I thought it was a pain on my 2010 civic. Makes my civic look like a picnic.
Yeah this location makes it challenging but in the end it’s just unscrewing the PCV
Just changed mine on a 2012 camry se. At 143k miles, the hose didn't make it! Honestly, the gingle on the valve wasn't all that different, but im not gonna chance it. She was burning some oil between oil changes. Threading that valve in was a real treat 😂
So you successfully replace the PCV?
Yes, and no. The pcv valve is nice and snug, but the hose did split at both ends. So at 8:30 pm, and needing to use her in rhe morning i just jammed the bad hose back on. The barb ended up being a hair past the split, so i just clamped directly behind the barb. Already ordered the oem hose online and will be replacing that today after work. U bet I'll be putting some grease or oil on the end of that barb for a smoother install/extraction. But it's safe to say, after 140k the hose had little hope to last that long before getting brittle. Also worth noting, my local toyota dealership at 6/17/24 is charging $33.48 in house, and 20.89 on there online store...@DIYLifeSkills
@@danielscott9137 very pricey for short piece of hose, but I guess if it lasts 140k miles, it’s not too bad. Also my local Toyota dealer also posts cheaper online price but you have to order and wait a day or 2 for them out the order together. And then, they charged $10 bucks for online order handling fee, so online order is only good if you are buying many or expensive part but it can end up being actually more expensive on cheap parts so the handling fee.
Alright gotter dun, had to use needle nose pliers to add some persuasion on the hose. I realy like that idea someone wrote to use a small length of hose to put on the pcv valve to add some length to thread the valve in. I'll definitely do that next time.
@@danielscott9137 Great. You are good for many more years now. :-)
This used to be much easier with the older Camrys. You could replace it from the top of the engine.
Yup. Used to be 5 minutes of work. Now it’s 30-45 minutes.
Next time, find a piece of hose that fits the new PCV, and use it to help with the install. Same as you would when installing new spark plugs.
That’s a good idea but reach was not a problem. The old PCV threaded in fine but the new one wouldn’t.
@@DIYLifeSkillsagreed, the position ur left in is so odd it's tough to thread it in flush. Doable, but nothing I'd like to repeat but once a year or few!
@@danielscott9137 yeah it’s strange why it’s hard to get the new PCV to start to thread in.
For a 2019 Camry Hybrid LE, is the PCV Valve a 1 hour job or a 4 hour job? My dealership said that for some cars, it is 30 minutes to an hour, and for other cars, it is a 4 hour job.
Does this style of PCV valve really go bad? I can understand them getting clogged, but is there some sort of valve seat which wears out due to repeated movement of the internals?
It’s the oil and carbon that gets built up inside that gradually restricts the valve from opening and closing fully.
You could just clean it with carbon cleaner, but the part being so cheap like $10~ish, it’s just better to replace it.
This simple and cheap part can actually cause all sorts of damages if it’s clogged. There are many UA-cam videos on bad PCV that you can check out.
Actual steps are simple, it’s just the restricted space that makes it bit challenging. But if you closely follow details of my explanations, this can be done within one hour.
@@DIYLifeSkills Thanks for your response!
Unfortunately my 11 Camry LE is verrry different with hydraulic power steering pump right there at 2:10 right by that wire / crankshaft sensor ( I think that’s what it is ) on the left side of crankshaft pulley . Can’t do it that way. And for that reason I don’t think I can get from the top .. some Facebook mechanics groups have said I gotta remove the intake manifold. Geez 😬
Yeah I’ve seen some videos about difficulty to change PCV on 2011 Camry. What a terrible location and design by Toyota. To replace $12 simple part, one would have to pay several hundred dollars to get it done as it’s in hard to reach that requires removal of other parts.
Good Video
Thx much! :-)
The Toyota dealer says the PCV is extremely difficult to remove and replace and removal of the engine is necessary. Lots of hours for labor this job.
I believe service manual has it as a big job, and of course DIY-er like me figure out an easy way to do it. This is about 30 minute work where most of time is spent on trying to reach PCV blindly by the feel of the fingers. I'm no mechanic, and I did it as well as many others. It's more intimidating than it actually is.
Tuviste que remover la bomba del power stiring???
Have you ever replaced a EGR valve on this??
What if you have a power steering pump in the way of that location? My 2010 Camry is going to be so much more difficult. I'm not looking forward to this job.
Yeah your generation Camry is pretty big work for casual home DIY-er. If you had the need to replace the power steering pump, then you can tackle it together at home or shop, but it’s a big work for $12 part replacement.
Can I just remove the PCV hose from the back side and pour a little sea foam or carb cleaner down the hose and let it sit a bit to dry and call it a day?
If you put the valve in a piece of hose it’s easier to get threaded in
For sure in hard to reach place. But I think I’m my case, the new PCV bought from online was a fake. It won’t thread in.
I was thinking maybe pouring some sea foam into the tube and letting it marinate in the valve would be a possible solution too as these valves don’t go bad as much as they just get dirty
@@erikkongslien4904 Yup. I’ve seen Toyota PCV get cut open and it’s nothing more than spring valve that just get clogged with oil sludge and some carbon. Arguably, they can be just cleaned. It’s just that Toyota PCVs are so cheap ($10) so it’s just as easy to just swap it.
Good video! Thanks! I’m thinking about using a flexible tubing attached to the valve head as extension for hand threading start. Just wondering if a torque wrench can be used to get correct tightening. Also, maybe using a small size wrench (1/4”) with extension(s) and adaptor will help better.
You can reach by hand to start threading. And as long as you use flex head ratchet or universal joint, it’s very accessible. It’s more intimidating to look at the video then when you actually do it.
Others have also reported that PCV is on their really tight. I felt like I was going to break it. That’s how tight it was. They may have applied thread lock. I’ve replaced PCV in over a dozen cars and never seen anything that tight. It’ll help to use a breaker bar to loosen it. After one or two full turns, you can unscrew it by hand.
Lastly, if you watched the video, you’ll note that new PCV didn’t want to thread in. Now I strongly believe it’s a fake OEM part. Because I ordered the new part number and they sent me the old part number and it’s black color, when it should be metal color. The dealer was only $2 more expensive, so be sure to get it from Toyota dealer. I’m learning that there are so many fake OEM merchandise in eBay and even on Amazon.
@@DIYLifeSkills thanks so much for the info. I think I will get it from the dealer
Thanks so much. I did remove the wheel and the cover and looked at the area but found it impossible to reach the PCV hose. I worried that even if I could pull out the hose and remove the valve I would not be able to do the installation.
what about removing the hose and spraying the PCV with carb cleaner while it's still on the car?
It’ll help loosen the oil sludge build up but that won’t get it completely clean. If you remove it and spray and shake it, that’ll get more sludge out. But given that PCV is only 10-12 bucks it’s best to replace it.
@@DIYLifeSkills thanks!
Thank you!!
Be sure to get OEM PCV. It’s only $10-$12.
I need help: How to change this on my 2018 Camry Hybrid LE? Thanks.
I don’t have that vehicle so I wouldn’t know precisely. But I did some googling and looks like 2018 still uses slight variant 2AR engine, so I’m thinking, it might be in similar location???
Jesus Christ, couldn't they place this routine maintenance item in any less accessible location?
No kidding. It used to be so simple. That said, on a 2014 Corolla, you have to remove the intake manifold to get to it, so it could've been worse.
Even with the video i couldn’t find the Valve. I have the 2010 camry with the same engine
LOL. Yeah it’s not visible at all to the eye. You first locate the hose which is easier and at the end is the PCV.
Your car is the single belt 2.5.
Try the 2 belt system from the bottom…
Top is better for 2 belt system.
@walter sweet Have you done the 2-belt system from the top? It'd be nice not to have to remove the power steering pump.
@@linded10 Which model years have 2 belt systems?
@@DIYLifeSkills 2010 & 2011. Camry switched to electric power steering in 2012.
Open tires to replace pcv
Yup that’s the easier way to do it.
I keep my oils so clean!,never have problem with pcv valve
If pcv valve clogged ,,, engine must be really dirty
Change synthetic oils ow20 every 6 months or 5000 miles on 2015 scion tc
You are doing good. These 10K oil changes are slowly ruing engines as carbon clogs the piston’s oil ring. But since PCV is so cheap (~$10-15 for OEM) compared to the high value it provides, it’s still good replace them somewhere between 50k to 100k depending on condition of the car.
would a tite reach / michaelpro offset extension wrench make this easier, allowing all work from the top?
Bit hard to get to from the top unless you have long skinny arm. Best is from the bottom
@@DIYLifeSkills Thanks again!
I would only replacement it with a new one , never to " clean " it . And no mater what , replace hose and clamps . Example is on newer Toyota Camrys to officially remove intake manifold , too expensive . Or to remove the passenger side fron tire . Remove plastic tire fender well cover and some bracket . And still not able to easily get to it , but by feel . This why I say to replace hose and clamps .
Do you know how to replace the PVC on 2018 Camry?
For 4 cylinder, looks like it’s hidden behind the intake manifold, which needs to be removed. For 6 cylinder, they say it’s on the front valve cover.
Can this trigger a check engine light? Mine is at 123000 miles
@@pugchench4443 Yes it could. What codes are you getting?
@DIYLifeSkills I currently don't have an obd scanner, but I took it to autozone, and they claim the pcv valve to be the cause of the CEL light. My finances aren't the best, so I'm waiting until I get paid to get a scanner, which won't be probably until next week. That's what I'm going off right now as the main cause of the CEL light. I barely bought the car a few days ago from a private owner, and it seems to have everything in emmaculate condition except for the CEL light. No rust. Everything has oem parts except the first cylinder ignition coil is (in house) aftermarket from a popular parts store.
@@pugchench4443 Auto part stores will tell you the code(s) if you ask. Some even print it out for you. Get the numbers as it'll be important to determine the source.
@DIYLifeSkills Thank you! I did not know that. They just handed me a print-out claiming a pcv valve as the CEL cause. It was a really busy day that day so much so that I should have asked for more information such as that one you're telling me about. The printout did not show any dtcs
@pugchench4443 You can buy ODB reader from TikTok, Temu, or AliExpress pretty cheap. Like under $10
Do PCV valves require replacement and what are the symptoms of failure or weakness.
PCV sucks out exhaust fumes to both relieve extremely high pressure in the crankcase, and to reroute unburned air-fuel mixture back into the intake system to prevent environment pollution. The valve inside the PCV eventually gets fouled with oil sludge and doesn't properly open or close. When this happens, the high pressure in the crankcase is not relieved, so that pressure finds weakest point to release the pressure, and that usually leads to leaking oil and/or gas through internal or external gaskets. This is only ~$10 part and reasonable DIY work at home, so I suggest replacing it regularly. You can find many videos on the importance of PCV function on UA-cam.
Camry 2018 ????
I don’t have that year car so I’m not sure how PCV is removed
Did you notice any significant difference in this clean? Or have noticed on any new replacement that you have done? Cheers mate👍🏻
Ever since I bought this car brand new, I do proactive maintenance versus waiting for problem to take action on this car . Therefore, it’s hard to notice any major differences since it was running pretty good as is. However, the only thing that I could notice slightly is smoother idle after MAF and TB cleaning so far. I only have about 75K miles on this car since my wife hardly drives it.
That said, I’ll be doing oil changes everyday 5K miles vs 10K as suggested because I found that 10k mile oil change is number one reason the 3rd oil piston area gets clogged with carbon and can’t scrape the oil in the piston cylinder down to crankcase, hence it leads to oil burning on this engine.
Where do you live? Replace mine .. I can't get the hose off 😮💨
What year and how many miles? I had to pull on the hose pretty hard from the top of the car as described in the video using both of my hands. When I worked on 2004 Highlander with over 200K miles to replace the valve cover, I had to remove bunch of rubber hoses and some of the coolant hoses had hardened so much that they broke like hard plastic rather than being a flexible rubber hose. This is because hot coolant runs through it. And hot exhaust gas also runs through PCV hose so there is a chance that hose became too hard and is no longer flexible. Try to squeeze the hose and see it still has flexible rubbery feel, then I’d you pull on it hard it should pop out. If the hose feels hard and brittle, then pulling on it could break the hose.
@@DIYLifeSkills it's a 2017 Camry with 140k miles... Hose is rubbery and playable but theres no room to pull from the top or bottom
@@pcysneros Look at 3:39 mark in the video. If you do the same, you can get your fingers to touch the PCV hose and be able to pull on it.
@@DIYLifeSkills I will try it again... If I can't I will have to go to the dealership 😫
@@DIYLifeSkills I tried like the video but my hands don't fit... I'm buying some long reach hose clamp players as a last resort to see if I can get it off... If not then I guess 300 dollars for the stealership
Is the pcv valve supposed to thread all the way in? Or is there a small gap between the nut and the metal surface.
PCV is located in an area that is not visible to the eye. When I was removing it it felt like it was on there permanently. I think factory may have applied threadlock glue. I would just tighten it to about 15-20 ft/lbs torque since that’s typical Toyota PCV torque.
How did you put the hose back on and tighten the clamp?
It is very difficult to reach inside to do that, and the clamp is sort of a joke. It’s on there very loosely. So I just pulled out the hose with the clamp on from the top (as shown in the video), but to put the hose back on, I did it from the bottom of the car. Hose part is not too difficult. Just pull on it hard to pull it out but it went in without any struggle. Hope that helps and good luck.
I have never seen a PCV valve go bad
PCVs fail often, but doesn't prevent starting the car or driving for Toyota/Lexus. On some German cars (like the VW Jetta I had), their PCV is often built into the valve cover, and uses diaphragm design that tears, and throws off the air/fuel mixture and can lead to misfire and check engine light. Toyota/Lexus on the other, due to the PCV design, once PCV fails, the engine is left with extremely high pressure since PCV is not pulling that pressurized air out, it eventually leads to oil/coolant gasket leak. Also, when high pressure combustion air is not extracted by PCV, your engine internal will accumulate carbon and oil gunks more quickly. While Toyota/Lexus cars cn be driven for a long time with failed PCV, there will be degradation in gas mileage and performance, and increase oil consumption. I think it's good to chance Toyota PCV at least once 100K miles, for much high mileage cars, perhaps every 50K miles. It's only $10-12 for the OEM part, so it's worth it.
In older cars, changing PCV was very simple, but now, its in hidden location, so that's the only bad thing.
@@DIYLifeSkills me personally most times when a car has oil consumption issues changing the PCV valve does nothing. Those cars with PCV valves built into the valve cover are a major pain
@@AwesomenessIskey Yeah once the piston oil control rings are carboned up, PCV change ain’t going to help. So it’s important to do regular oil changes and to make sure PCV functions correctly to slow down the piston rings getting clogged with carbon. It’s unavoidable but we can help to slow it down. Yup those valve cover PCVs are expensive to replace and they don’t last as long as Toyota PCVs.
You might have better luck putting the PCV in a rubber hose to start it.
One arm can reach there to screw the PCV, the problem was the new PCV wouldn’t thread in. The old one threaded in just fine, so I suspect that PCV was a fake OEM. The OEM PCV I bought from Toyota dealership in person threaded in just fine.
My Camry 2016 is losing oil! Might be partly clogged PCV valve .. hate to pay for all this work for cheap part .. but not able to do this myself.
This loud fast music is WAY ANNOYING! Distracting while trying to concentrate on the content of the video .. the instructions, the visual.
Hey just checking back to see if you replaced the PCV yet? If not, see if you find a handy buddy who likes to work on a car.
How many miles do you have on the car and how much oil are you losing? Dealer says it's normal to burn 1 quart of oil for every 1000 to 1500 miles.
BTW, I've been adjusting background music volume down as the output background sound comes out little louder than when I'm editing and testing.
Anyone able to get the black pcv valve on vs the metal color? I ordered mine from a Toyota dealer, and the one they gave me is black. I am worried it won’t fit.
If it's from Toyota dealer, it should be fine. I got the black one from online and have a feeling that it's a fake OEM.
@@DIYLifeSkills Good to know. Thank you! Based on your experience do you think a clogged pcv can affect the idle? I cleaned maf sensor, intake, changed plugs and coils and even used fuel system cleaner, and the idle sometimes dips too low and almost stalls the car.
@@ddk80 Yes definitely, but that would require a completely clogged PCV. PCV is cheap, though pain in the butt to replace. Also even small crack in any vacuum line will cause engine to run and idle rough and could stop the engine. So check all vacuum lines and make sure they are all plugged in correctly and hoses are not cracked.
@@ddk80 Also dirty fuel filter or fuel injectors will cause erratic idle and poor performance and gas mileage. Fuel filter is under the rear-seat, and for fuel injectors, there are many cleaners that you can try. It's bit of work to remove them to clean it.
@@ddk80 How many miles do you have and what year?
Torque spec on the pcv valve ?
They say 15-17 ft/lbs but it sure felt much tighter trying to loosen it, so I think that’s because factory applied some thread lockers.
@@DIYLifeSkills thank you so much! I’m sure rav 4 2.5 takes same spec.
@@RaulGuadalupe-c5b yup it’s same engine.
@@DIYLifeSkills awesome ! Much appreciated
@@DIYLifeSkills would recommend using thread locker ? Medium strength. Thanks in advance
Tengo un toyota igual y está perdiendo aceite necesito reemplazo de válvula pcv?
If you are leaking oil, then likely some gasket needs to be replaced. If you are burning oil without leaking, then new PCV may help some, but most likely it's the worn or clogged piston rings. There are some products that claim to remove carbon build up on piston rings, but I'm not sure how effective they are.
What year, model, and mileage is your car?
Is ez diy? 2014 camry. I change spark plug Oil change. Transmission oil change brake pad. Drive belt self. I dont know i can handle pcv change. Since cant b seen Shop charge 3 hr labor.
It’s doable DIY. Just not having clear view makes it intimidating. Just follow what I did. I did it on two cars. Get OEM PCV from a Toyota dealer. The one I bought from Amazon I think was a fake OEM as threads didn’t fit.
@@DIYLifeSkills thx so much
As any car get older and more blow by get pass the rings, there will be more crankcase fumes to foul the PCV valve , making valve service intervals shorter and shorter. It is not a fixed 30,40,000 miles. It can be an annual thing to do. newer cars now burn more oil right from the factory than cars in the past because the engineers had long ago picked all the low hanging fruit and are at a point of diminishing return,trying to improve gas mileage, only people that do not know this are the gov regulators.Switching to electric vehicles is an equally bad solution.
Just so they make money changing it
Why the Toyota engineers placed that valve in such idiotic place???? Freaking stupid.
@@neriorus The location is actually good for PCV to vacuum out post combustion fumes more efficiently than in top of the valve cover. But they could’ve at least move it little more for easier access. What’s intimidating is you can’t really see, but can feel it if you reach it with your hand. So it’s doable but just not like a few minutes of work like before when they had it on top of the engine.
I have a 2006 Scion tC that drinks way too much oil. Could thus fix it?
Clogged PCV cause high pressure build up the crankcase and that eventually causes blow-by (meaning oil sips past piston rings causing oil loss. Also high crankcase pressure cause oil to eventually leak through the weakest points, which are gaskets. The worst is head gasket internally which will be expensive repair, but more often it’s the outer gaskets that’ll leak oil. Since PCV is cheap it’s always a good maintenance to do Avery 30k miles on older cars.
That said, most likely oil consumption comes from worn piston rings. This is why it’s so important to change oil on recommend frequency and use good quality oil. If you are burning more than 1 quart of oil, it’s actually better to change oil every 3k miles using conventional (vs expensive synthetic) oil rather than filling a quart every 1k mile.
Yes it can fix your problem but also clean the throttle body
You may have a internal damage like cylinder walls and rings. You should perform a compression test on all cylinders and compare readings with specs. If that's out of specs the PCV would be a waste of your time and money.
@@mikek.9980 Yup, PCV can't fix clogged 3rd piston ring that scrapes oil back down to the crankcase. This is the common oil burning issue. But PCV is only $12 bucks and is a maintenance item, so it's not much loss to replace it.
19mm socket
New one sounds dry
Also threads didn’t fit. So I suspect that it could be a fake OEM.
Loud and annoying music track should be removed
Noted. Thanks for the feedback.
tf
Any other valves that need periodic replacement/maintenance ?
Depends on the car condition. If it’s new, you can go 50k or more miles, if it’s over 100k miles, I would replace it every 30-50k miles or even earlier if you are burning or leaking oil.
You should also clean Mass Airflow sensor and Throttle Body regularly like 25k to 50k miles. Also change spark plug around 100k miles with identical OEM plugs.