This Camry was consuming oil! - How to Change Toyota PCV Valve 2AR
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- Опубліковано 30 січ 2025
- How to change Toyota 2AR-FE engine PCV Valve on this 2014 Toyota Camry with oil consumption issues. This $20 part could be why your car is burning oil.
Genuine Toyota Valve I used - amzn.to/3Nl6nwL
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Friendly tip, when you have the car on jack stands and take the wheel off, slide the wheel under the frame in case anything fails, it crushes the wheel and not you.
I know to do this but always choose to use it as a seat instead, not sure why... maybe I should reconsider my priorities lol
@@BCDrivennah seat is necessary
One of the best 2AR-FE PCV change videos on UA-cam! 👍
I tired today and called it. I never even got the hose off. Thanks for the idea of turning the wheel. I'll try again tomorrow.
They certainly make it difficult nowadays to remove/install a PCV valve. Back in the day, the PCV valve was installed in a rubber grommet that was atop the valve cover.....easy peasy to change.
yay progress!
Just curious when that was, my Volvo is even older than the Toyota in the video and its whole “breather assembly” was way worse to change out than this Camry. I’d take this every dang day over my car period
Excellent camera work! Good lighting! Easy to see where things are.
And I also love those swivel extensions!
Thank you for saving me some time!
Thank you! This engine is on a 2013 RAV4 also
Good angles on the shots to show where the Pcv is thanks
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
@Benefits-ix9jy read some of my other comments, it helped a lot but didn't completely fix it. Definitely helped make it more manageable between oil changes.
@@Benefits-ix9jy yeah, totally sorted it thanks 🙏
Did changing the pcv reduce the oil consumption?
the actuator is for the intake runners. i wish they put the pcv valve up on top of the engine like the 2 Az that was a 10 min job. or like on a small block ford or chevy 2 min job no tools required oh well I guess this is proof their making cars hard to work on
So, nothing comes pouring out, when the tube is removed?
Thanks, I been looking for a solution like this for a long time that didn't require removing the entire intake manifold. Does anybody know if this method works for the models with power steering?
Wow bc very good job we always learn every day thanks for your time bro
Thanks for leaving a comment 👍
I have done this at home. Nasty patient job. Need eyes on the end of the fingers on 1 hand.
May on UA-cam took hours to do it, but they did it. 💪💪
If this valve ever gets plugged up or stuck closed due to sludge,.. then the engine will build up pressures and start to have oil leaks at seals and gaskets.
And mine was all dry and the PCV valve was clean but I feel better now that I know.
I never did see the threaded hole.? 1st time I did not mind not seeing the hole and not being able to put a finger in it. 😏😏
It appears to have a pipe thread on the valve (tapered) and it had a tad of sealer on the threads. So since it is so time consuming to get to I cleaned mine inside and out and then applied a light smear of thread sealant specific to this application.
Does this car have a power steering pump?
I don't know
What's the year, and engine of this car? - 4-cylinder, or 6-cylinder?
Is this the 2.5 engine?
So, you just pulled/yanked the hose out from the pcv valve side? I'm a diy person, and when i got there, i was kinda of scared to yank it out by hand mainly because i wasn't sure it was going to crack
2010 camry 2.5 owner here. My check engine light flashes, car will start missing, and it burns oil. Quite a bit of oil. How likely is it that it could be a pcv valve and line? It runs fine at idle.
Unfortunately that doesn't sound like a PCV issue. I would start with reading the codes, there is likely something in there that can help you diagnose the issue. I would also recommend a compression test on all 4 cylinders, I don't know the exact PSI you should see but they should all be within 10% of each other max. Good luck, hopefully it's something simple.
What year is this car
I was wondering if u think this could be the same issue with a 2013? Additionally when u changed it did the oil burning stop?
Well! That's a secret.
Did changing the valve stop the oil consumption? Mine is doing the same thing.
It helps but didn't completely stop it. It did bring it down to a manageable level. Usually doesn't consume enough to need to add in between oil changes but still keep a check on it.
I just caught your video, great job... 2 Questions was the old one or the new one hard to come out or go in ? Next did this resolve your oil consumption issue ?
It was pretty easy to get out once it broke free. I believe I did add a small cheater bar to my ratchet handle to break it free though. And as far as oil consumption, it helped a lot but it's still using some oil. It was using a quart and a half between changes and now its more like 1/2 a quart. The car does have some miles on it so I'm guessing the remaining oil consumption is just something we'll have to live with.
@@BCDriven what year is your Toyota Camry? And how many miles? Also what kind of oil are you using ? 0w20 regular or synthetic blend or full synthetic or high mileage full synthetic??
@@dakota47v8 0W-20 isn't available as a conventional oil. It's only available as synthetic or synthetic blend, or HMS.
My 11 Le has a power steering pump right in the way .. I guess either the pump or intake manifold need to come off, daanngg . It's right by the crank sensor and that actuator where my ratchet needs to go
My 2010 got the power steering pump in the way as well. Which ever way I go with it looks like a all day deal.
How do you know the old valve was causing the oil consumption? Did you just change a good one?
I didn't, just a cheap thing to try. The valve should rattle freely and the old one sounded stocky when I shook it. Again just a cheap thing to try. It didn't completely stop the consumption but it did slow it down a lot.
What year
excellent picture no bs
Is this a second pcv or is it located somewhere different from mine? Mine is right on top.
To be completely honest I don't know, I only know of the one on this camry. And this is also the only one I found while researching. Just out of curiosity, what year are you working on?
Nope, that is a different year Camry. The one with the PCV on top is the model Before the 2.4. 2010 four-cylinder. 2010 up the 2.5 is in the back and down, as seen in this video.
I've got a 2010 and there's a compressor right in the way
Turns out mine sits on top of the engine and was already replaced. Mine is a 2009 and apparently there was a known issue with the piston rings that makes this make of engine burn oil bad.
@@matthew2487 Is it a 2AR engine? My wife's Camry is a 2015 and has started the slow oil burn at around 160K.
Are you a mechanic or DIY ? A mechanic told me there are signs that your pcv valve is bad like high idling , oil leaks and air leaks . Are these signs a fool proof sure way to tell if pcv valve is bad ? I've got oil leaks btt not the other signs . Major pain to replace mine . I've got to take off imtake manifol and a few other things or pay a shop . 11 Camry 2ARFE 2.5 L It's right by the intake manifold and HYDRAULIC POWER STEERING PUMP
Smart idea using OEM!
Very helpful video. Well done.
Thanks!
Did it help with the oil consumption
Yes some but not completely. Still having to keep an eye on it between changes.
Update?
Lucky you have 2010 camry and the PS is in the way. Everything is the same except the PS has to be in the way. How do I remove PS?
PS the Haynes auto instructs me to take the intake manifold apart LOL I'm not ready to mess with that thing cuz it requires messing around with the fuel rail. Help guys, two obstacles PS and the air vaccumm device. If I can get either one of these two out of the way, I can get to it. The air vaccum is tricky, I think it's attached to to the intake manifold. This is very upsetting Toyota f their design. Every car have PCV on top not tucked behind intake manifold.
Thanks for this video! This same engine is also used in the Camry/ES300h hybrids. I am experiencing some oil consumption at 130k. I think this is the fix probably/hopefully? Did oil consumption stop after replacing PCV valve?
It helped slow it down but it's still using 1/2 a quart or so between changes. It's got like 170k miles on it so may just be normal piston ring wear for it's age. For the cost and no more difficult it is to change I definitely recommend starting with this and then getting into the habit of checking the oil level weekly.
@@BCDriven I believe piston/ring wear is inevitable on the AR engines according to another channel where the guy is a former Toyota shop mechanic. The rings have less ability to remain against the piston walls and can stick in their grooves, letting oil slip past into the combustion chamber. The head itself has thinner walls so you can't machine out any wear so eventually the engine wears out. Part of the problem is the new 10K oil change policy. Keep doing them at 3K and always change the filter and you can extend the engine life.
@wwiiinplastic4712 yeah I hate that because of Toyotas general reputation for reliability. I'm overly paranoid about oil levels, most people never check in between oil changes and I check mine at least every 2 weeks in all my vehicles if not weekly.
@@BCDriven Yes, that is the biggest con I've had so far with my wife's car. Of all the cars I've owned/driven the Toyotas have been the most reliable, with my '69 VW bus being second (not as many components too deal with is kind of a plus).
The reality is as long as you follow a more frequent than recommended change time table, use quality oil, don't forget the filter, and just keep an eye on things people still get 300K+ out of them. As we know, though, most people don't do all that.
Before making a short trip top engine oil level to max level.
After a short trip & back home dip twice for engine oil level while engine is running at idling rpm.
Let say you have at least 5mm of oil level at the end of dip stick. Oil level higher than 15mm could be indicating higher than normal pressure
Then keep the engine running at idling rpm. Remove the cap on the engine top. Then dip twice for engine oil level. It should increase slightly. Lets say oil level is at 16mm. This indicate there is a slightly negative pressure in the lower part of crankcase before you had open the cap on top of the engine. This is indicating of good PCV.
Stop the car engine and put back the cap for engine top cover. After 10 minute dip again engine oil level. It should be back to max level.
Did anyone oil burn stopped ?
In Canada, that valve cost $37 + taxes, Rock Auto sell types for about $10 + freight. I question the need to go the expensive OEM for this valve is just a simple ball and a spring, not much to go wrong. I soak the valve in carb cleaner so it can be reused again. The other alternate is if I see one of those engines out of the car in a garage, I take measurement and make an adapter for it, to thread into the block, the other end will be piped to a fitting welded to it so the actual valve can be threaded in at a much more easy location. Same thing with the transmission, out of the car, I be able to see where I can drill and add a tube and dipstick to it. Make changing the fluid much easier.
Expensive OEM. I just priced it from a dealer in St. Louis, Missouri for a suggested retail of $12.18 US but discounted to only $8.78 US. Even if it was expensive you're better off getting the OEM part because it's less likely to give you trouble and more likely to last longer than a cheaper after market part and that's a plus when this isn't a really simple job but takes a little effort to do.
Please let us know about that transmission dipstick.
Why does the dealership suggest to change the motor if its only a pcv valve?
it's not always just a pcv valve, if it's still consuming oil after changing it then they're going to want to keep throwing parts at it until it stops. Swapping a whole motor is easier than just changing piston rings in a dealership setting. After changing this one it still uses just over half a quart between changes which is pretty manageable in my opinion.
Another great video
There are 2 look the same, which one
Great Video! Thanks
this was harder to change then my ac compressor on my 2 g Scion tc
Yeah seems like an unnecessarily difficult location to place it.
I changed my PVC on my 4Runner and it’s still consuming oil
Thanks
Field of Dreams...iykyk
Change these motors at 5 k not 10k as Toyota states. Adjustable rings gett gunked up and start consuming oil and fouling the VVTI solenoid's causing consumption as well.
I really don't want to do this damn job, but I can't justify spending like the 400 bucks or whatever I've been hearing quoted to replace it, knowing I have the damn tools and can make the time.
Did you solve the problem?
I don't think this was the all together solution in our case but I definitely think it helped. Before it was over a quart and a half low between changes now its only a half quart or so between the last oil changes. We keep a close watch on it now and I'm not really willing to tear the motor apart checking rings and valves over the small amount of oil it uses.
@@BCDriven It's not that bad.
Hope you didn’t get the jack stand from harbor freight 😂
Autozone, about 15 years ago so probably even worse lol
What a pain in a ass compared to the 2003 model
Yeah and I didn't realize this only works if you have the EPS, others have commented and said the power steering pump is in the way on other models.
i wonder how much a mechanic charges to do this job
Depends on the mechanic, I could see a dealership charging $300 to $400 or maybe a small mom and pop type of place getting it in for less. As I've said in other comments this did help reduce my oil consumption but it wasn't a full cure, we still keep a close check on it between changes.
If they go by the flat rate manual it's down for 3 hours because it has them removing the intake manifold to do the job.
@BCDriven put some Berryman in the fuel,it will clean the combustion chamber.
Awesome video!! Thank You!