Finally you disited to say don't touch the metal, it's about time ,every time you touched it ,it drove me crazzzzzzy thanks for not touching it .And on the other hand l love your meticulous preparation for an awesome result .Your my favorit restoration guy .Thanks for your time ,,l really appreciate you
Many of us have sat through videos and thought - "Well, I'll never get THAT time back". The same guys find watching one of YOUR videos as an INVESTMENT While we might not be able to use it right away we can lock it away until such a time as necessary. Having such a repository is PURE GOLD! Thanks again, Tony!
What makes your incredibly informative videos stand out above the rest, Tony, is your naration, your personality, sense of humour, and your honesty. Fitzee's Fabrications is absolutely my favourite car repair channel!
You are the professor, everyone else is just good for what they do. I can't get over how nice it looks even before filling and sanding. Experiment is the way of the champion's! I've waited for a few years to move and looks like I'll have a garage of my own soon. Thank you Fitzee.
I used a similar rust prevention in late 90s in a chemical plant i worked for. The products manufactured there would eat metal in no time. The product i used was called Conquest. It looked like milk. Went on just as yours did, turning purple then black. I painted over it with out primer using an industrial expoxy paint. It truly worked keeping the rust at bay
Hey Tony, another great video! I'm a budget builder as well. I started after I retired at age 60. When I found your channel I felt much better and gained confidence realizing that it was OK using basic tools and ingenuity to figure out how to do the job. Here in Wisconsin I think rust was invented!:) It might have something to do with the millions of tons of salt spread on the roads every winter. I have to share my workspace with my wife, who thinks her car should be in the garage as well, which adds salt vapors to the mix. My tools will actually start to rust in the cabinets. Any bare metal has to be covered immediately. I've been using a spray on rust converter by Permatex. Expensive but you can spray on a nice smooth coat and then apply your finished. For the more difficult areas to prep, such as door interiors / bottoms, I use Rust-Oleum converter. This is not an advertisement. Thanks Tony for all the tips and confidence!:)
This build reminds me so much of my uncle who passed. He used to paint commercial airliners but was the neighborhood mechanic and collision repairs guy. He loved his k20 and k30's.
If you care enough to remove what rust you can and stop the rest you can get results that will last you a lifetime. You show it can be done on a budget with results to be proud of, great inspiration. These are the longest videos I will actually watch start to finish.
I totally agree with you! My friend's send me a video that's 8 minutes long and I think, "Ugh do really have to sit through this?" Fitzee hits us with an hour long video and I pop some popcorn and cancel my plans for the evening!!! I can't wait for the next one!
Short story for you Tony, and anyone else who wants to read it. Pittsburg Steel went on strike in the late seventies and early eighties. I was a fitter for Marathon Metallic. MM bought rolls of steel from Japan because of all the US steel mills shutting down. That Japanese steel was so full of water I would have a puddle of water in front of my cutting torch. The welds would not pass X-ray. It was crap! We could not meet our customers orders for class A earthquake zoned areas. I have never bought a Japanese car for that reason. Your attempt at converting rust is a must all over the entire car. I’ve painted since I was 19, Im now mid sixties: cars, trucks, tractors, even a combine. I think you are doing a commendable job. I’ve tried the same thing you are doing, only difference is that I used epoxy primer over the converter. Only problem I had is it gets extremely hard. It is very scratch resistant but is easy to chip. Road chips, door ding chips are all a problem. Last rust bucket job I had zinc powder coating then red oxide primer no hardener. No chip problems so far. Finish coat I did not use hardener either. I’ve never been a big fan of hardener. Took longer to dry, I waited four weeks to buff it out. Worked great so far, it’s been three years on that paint.
Thanks for the fine video, I have used several types of rust converter, the one I used the most is just phosphoric acids. Those don't have a buildup film and treats all metal with rust it turns black into iron phosphate and tins the bare metal without rust. I just wipe it on, and time set then wipe it dry.
At English Town racetrack about 25 years ago I went to a Puerto Rico vs US drag racing....all the Puerto Ricans had these old corollas with 4 bangers.....it was before the import scene was big. These are fast cars,I personally saw one beat a big block 4 speed 69 camaro.the Corolla pulled the wheels off the ground in 1st, 2nd, 3rd... This car brings me back.
Got me shirt and sticker ordered, sticker is going on my formally rusted Honda Eg hatch, only from watching this channel gave me the confidence to tackle cutting out the rear quarters and having to fabricate custom pieces, the whole inner fender and various pieces. Next on the list my 1976 camaro, and that one will get a sticker when it's done!
I am not a millionaire and I live in Wales and it cold and rains a lot - I get the same flash rusting as you. I make my own phosphate solution to save money and I can tell you it works well. I buy strong phosphoric acid by the gallon of the internet last time I got 88% weight weight phosphoric acid (its used for cleaning milking machines and swimming pools) it cost me around twenty quid! if I put 10 (ish) by volume in tap water - my water here is very pure but hard water is much better and paint it on the steel like you have. I get after the black areas to lift the rust out of the metal some times it gives me a nice new hole! But I would rather have a bit more welding than bubbling paint! I use a wire brush on a drill till its all gone the acid and mechanical action pulls the rust out of the steel. I will keep hitting the black ares till its gone - a little at a time - I use the phosphate every day I work on the cars after I finish. I have never had flash rusting since - I know it lasts years! Once ready foe primer I DA with 180 grit and a scotch rate in tight areas and blow the dust off and it sticks very well. I do all this to save time and money! 50 gallons for to twenty quid can’t be bad!!!!
Akzonobel makes great products. I use their sign industry paint all the time. They also make sikkens Automotive paint. That paint is one of the best paints I have ever used.
You're at a good position on your project Tony. Metal work completed, she's straight, solid, and sealed. The dirty work is done... A sense of accomplishment, and satisfaction. Now, only 50 jillion steps left to go! b.t.w. nobodies reached 50 jillion, they are Never Done, done.
I have learned so much about metal work watching you. How in the world do you get all your energy. I get tired just watching you work. I guess it's that northern air. I live in Florida and it is July right now. 100 degree days are no fun. Great work. Thank you.
I first used rust converter about 30 yrs agoNever had a problem with it. First time i used it I did floor pans Never painted it , it took 18 months before it started to rust again
Great tip with the masking tape to remove that sealer. Any industrial epoxy primer will do for sealing. In Aus there is a product called EpoTek which os meant for priming excavators and other industrial equipment. It doesn’t come in many colours but it has amazing high build, etches into bare metal and dries absolutely rock hard. Same with yours, you have to sand it within a certain time frame, but you can paint over it within a day or two.
Thanks for all the videos you post. I've used many of the techniques you've shown us doing metal repairs on my car. Sharing your knowledge is appreciated by many, if not all, of your viewers. Best Regards - Mike
As always... another riveting video Tony. It's always a treat watching your channel. Always enjoy the tips an tricks you share. Thank you for sharing your knowledge as always. Keep up the awesome content. Totally love the channel. Keep On Keeping On Brother!!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
The converter some times will not stick to the non rusted metal , I sand it back off once I figure the converting is done. Can't wait to see that old corolla painted up 👍 My first winter beater was a '79 corolla hatch when I was 16. It was a shitbox but I liked it. Spraying the coating with thinners is brilliant, you may have converted the converter into to glue. If this works it would solve a lot of issues in a inexpensive way. Great video
Thanks fitzee, great videos as always..im slowly getting my Hilux sorted. Have been watching since the start. My 7 year old is starting to watch you as well. 😆😆🇮🇪🇮🇪
Another great video Fitzee!!! I envy the feeling of all the rust work being done 😂 You make it look easy!! I learn something everytime I watch a video of yours!!!
From what I understand about rust is: Black rust is iron oxide 2, while red rust is iron oxide 3. Red rust is a complex chemical with a bunch of sub families. The big difference is red rust expands as it is formed, where black rust almost no expansion at all. As red rust expands, it will pry coatings (paint) away from the steel and expand the patch with each wet to dry cycle. Black rust is very like bluing on rifles and tends to protect the steel. I tried using rust converter about 30 years ago just like you did and It is still fine. Painted with acrylic lacquer. I learn a bunch with each of your videos!
Tony.....I myself am not a show car finish guy but have worked with/known guys that were!......I"m more of a rat rod finish guy myself!.......besides I used to beat em up roundy rounding so I'm happy with a 50Ft/100 Mph finish as it is!
i am in the process of working on my 1990 mustang gt and the biggest thing i have learned from you is patience. another big thing is you have given me confidence to try do it myself after all its just metal and it is my car thank you.
Hi fitzee When you was talking about dumdum, here in the UK we could get dumdum in a can, the can was all yellow with the writings in black. Using the same principle as window putty to apply. Looked it up, it was made by Eldro and classed as sealing compound.
Hi Tony, Crusty looks good all in one color. There was a lot of good explaination of why you do things a certain way as well as the difference between a primer that bridges and one that doesn't. Very interesting and something to think about when you are choosing a primer. There are so many different products available today, it could make your head spin! Thanks for the video!
As always, amazing content. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge, experience, and mistakes/imperfections along the way. Nobody is perfect but we can all learn, every day. Inspector General 🐈 seems to approve of your work, and tire choice. Big wins today, Fitzee!
Glad to see you're showing your prep work, I'm sure I'm not the only one wondering what you do and what you use. I used Interseal on my Ranger I did rockers and fenders. It is one tough primer. I also top coated the lower section of my Truck with Raptor bed liner. Thanks Tony...
Wow, crusty is looking good. Thank you for sharing this information of rust converters with us. Yes I have used rust converters, mostly from the eastwood company. Thanks again for sharing this with us.
Thanks voor all the great video,s . I use tannox fore Rost convertor it's very cheap and works great meybey u can't test it some day kluthe tannox .I am using the interseal 670hs now and loving it
Lots of knowledge in this video Tony. Fellas don't know the struggle we have with corrosion here in Newfoundland. Thanks and Great work on Crusty! Most would just send it to metal recycling (if they had any sense LOL) Keep the "rustoration" videos coming please
Awesome job Fitzee... I like how you did the process... and the International primer ... showing it all and how it came out in the end ... ! Ready for you with your next thing happening... love ya man! ... Great work!
I'm going to try and get some of your merchandise!!!... need some shirts for sure.. I need part of ya in Alberta to show you of ya know... take care my friend!
I have loaded that same product in my spray gun. It really bonds well to rusted areas but I run over it with the DA before I prime. Keep up the great work cousin. West Virginia Fitz
I use Vactan for rust treatment. It’s bloody amazing. It’s very similar to what you’ve used. I just brush it all over like you. 20years later after just rolling paint on it’s still rust free. Great stuff.
Amazing accomplishment. I think you are on the right track with sealing it up. I’ve had good luck with rust converter over bear metal. That primer seems like good stuff too. Looking forward to seeing how it holds up over time especially up there in your harsh environment. Love the videos!
Crusty !!! …. love your work and inspiration ! …nice tip on cleaning off the windshield sealer 💪🏻…. Also I used rust mort on a couple cars the same way !! …. It’s amazing stuff and u can feel the surface is sealed … if it’s dry and scuffed for the primer and these products including body fillers “ like each other “ …. That’s the Bottomline 👍🏻
You're a braver man than me Tony, mixing the unknown and laying it down, never in a million years would I dare. I'd be too scared in case I had to take it all back off, well maybe too lazy hehe. Anyway, the car looks spot on, nice and solid now and ready to move on with the build.
Great to see FItzee I do stuff very much the same way.....some is experimental. and some has years of experience. But like you said you check the surface before you put primer on there. Like I say to everyone .....you will use filler and that is what matters.
thanks for sharing your expertese with every one I really enjoy the way you explaine everything you are a real insperation to me! makes me want to tackle more jobs on my own race car. Thanks again!
I use a similar rust converter....and put epoxy primer over it....Then painted over that about 2 hours later in the window.....Took my pocket knife and tried to do everthing I could to scratch it off. and it would not come off. I could not chip it off I could not scratch it off. every coat would not separate....you should be fine.
Hey Tony. Just a quick thought on your Rust-Killer worries. You say that the product says "Do not put on bare steel / metal". My interpretation of that is "Do not put on NEW bare steel / metal". Why I say this is that I asked a bloke I know a similar question when I was rust-treating an area on the Mini. This mate restores his own cars and paints boats for a living and it was him who told me to treat the rust and use a rust-inhibiting primer - a marine primer in preference, like the International brand (which he swears by, by the way). I won't quote him exactly as he isn't known for G-rated speech at the best of times and there were a number of references to certain body parts, bodily functions and....er....other things that don't really add a lot to the explanation, but do make for an entertaining story if you were in the room. Anyway, the guts of what he said was that it's perfectly fine to use on older steel panels that have been worked or painted previously - like what you (and I now) use for patching - as it will still do its job on older steel due to the way steel ages even when painted - ie: there will always be some minor rust or discolouration or pock marks for it to react with. New steel - unless its been heavily weathered and is covered in surface rust - then no. Don't use it on NEW steel as "fresh" panel steel is not porous enough (for want of a better term) and there will be nothing for it to act on. Use the product as directed, ignore that line and she'll be jake, mate - as long as you keep doing repairs the way you have been and using scrap / recycled / repurposed steel to get the job done. He told me to "just coat the whole ... thing to be sure and for ...'s sake, never you ... mind about getting your ... magnifying glass and .... detail brush or you will be there all ... year". Mini has lived outside uncovered since the rockers were done for two years now. Rust has popped out in other places due to the humidity, but the work I did on the rockers looks like the day I painted it - thanks to both him and the tips and tricks from your good self. He reckons the anti-rust product company put that disclaimer about new steel on there in an attempt to stop Joe Average putting it on bare new steel as a "preventative" instead of an epoxy corrosion-inhibiting primer (or as well as) and then trying to sue the company when the topcoat reacts and falls off. I would not be surprised... All the best
I don't blame you a bit for doing the filler work on top of primer, I've been doing it that way for over 10 years, after having fillers over bare metal pop with rust underneath I realized that metal will absorb moisture in colder temperatures and can get trapped under the bodywork, I haven't had any more problems with my fillers on top of the primer, I also prime and seal over the top when the filler and blocking work is done, that primer is thick enough that you should be able to block most of the sanding scratches out before spraying the final coat, great job Tony and the tips are always good, still waiting on patches, 😉 😉
primer shows it all but its good to get it all sealed its a shame things are so expensive for you guys up north but you are not letting it stop you keep the videos they are so helpful
looks good. I wiped my clean metal with pitting rust down with phosphoric acid based treatment and then painted on the latex based tannic acid treatment you used to get the pits where needed. double tap rust protection.
There’s no better feeling than being done with the metal work and just getting a coat of primer on everything and having it all one color 👍
Just keeps getting better and better
Finally you disited to say don't touch the metal, it's about time ,every time you touched it ,it drove me crazzzzzzy thanks for not touching it .And on the other hand l love your meticulous preparation for an awesome result .Your my favorit restoration
guy .Thanks for your time ,,l really appreciate you
Amen
Many of us have sat through videos and thought - "Well, I'll never get THAT time back". The same guys find watching one of YOUR videos as an INVESTMENT While we might not be able to use it right away we can lock it away until such a time as necessary. Having such a repository is PURE GOLD! Thanks again, Tony!
What makes your incredibly informative videos stand out above the rest, Tony, is your naration, your personality, sense of humour, and your honesty. Fitzee's Fabrications is absolutely my favourite car repair channel!
You are the professor, everyone else is just good for what they do. I can't get over how nice it looks even before filling and sanding. Experiment is the way of the champion's! I've waited for a few years to move and looks like I'll have a garage of my own soon. Thank you Fitzee.
You, Sir, are a professor of paint and a metal science scholar. We here in Virginia enjoy viewing your mind, as well as your hands, work.
All the time Amazing !
I used a similar rust prevention in late 90s in a chemical plant i worked for. The products manufactured there would eat metal in no time.
The product i used was called Conquest. It looked like milk. Went on just as yours did, turning purple then black.
I painted over it with out primer using an industrial expoxy paint.
It truly worked keeping the rust at bay
Ignore ignorant comments. You’re an honest man and show us everything. Many would hide things. I prefer honesty to coverups.
Hey Tony, another great video! I'm a budget builder as well. I started after I retired at age 60. When I found your channel I felt much better and gained confidence realizing that it was OK using basic tools and ingenuity to figure out how to do the job. Here in Wisconsin I think rust was invented!:) It might have something to do with the millions of tons of salt spread on the roads every winter. I have to share my workspace with my wife, who thinks her car should be in the garage as well, which adds salt vapors to the mix. My tools will actually start to rust in the cabinets. Any bare metal has to be covered immediately. I've been using a spray on rust converter by Permatex. Expensive but you can spray on a nice smooth coat and then apply your finished. For the more difficult areas to prep, such as door interiors / bottoms, I use Rust-Oleum converter. This is not an advertisement. Thanks Tony for all the tips and confidence!:)
I’m 62 and started my project
This build reminds me so much of my uncle who passed. He used to paint commercial airliners but was the neighborhood mechanic and collision repairs guy. He loved his k20 and k30's.
If you care enough to remove what rust you can and stop the rest you can get results that will last you a lifetime. You show it can be done on a budget with results to be proud of, great inspiration. These are the longest videos I will actually watch start to finish.
I totally agree with you! My friend's send me a video that's 8 minutes long and I think, "Ugh do really have to sit through this?" Fitzee hits us with an hour long video and I pop some popcorn and cancel my plans for the evening!!! I can't wait for the next one!
I'm learning a lot from your videos.😊 thank you for taking the time to make them.
Crusty has been a good learning experience for most of us I would assume? Nice work as always. Well explained. Thx.
Short story for you Tony, and anyone else who wants to read it. Pittsburg Steel went on strike in the late seventies and early eighties. I was a fitter for Marathon Metallic. MM bought rolls of steel from Japan because of all the US steel mills shutting down. That Japanese steel was so full of water I would have a puddle of water in front of my cutting torch. The welds would not pass X-ray. It was crap! We could not meet our customers orders for class A earthquake zoned areas. I have never bought a Japanese car for that reason.
Your attempt at converting rust is a must all over the entire car. I’ve painted since I was 19, Im now mid sixties: cars, trucks, tractors, even a combine. I think you are doing a commendable job. I’ve tried the same thing you are doing, only difference is that I used epoxy primer over the converter. Only problem I had is it gets extremely hard. It is very scratch resistant but is easy to chip. Road chips, door ding chips are all a problem. Last rust bucket job I had zinc powder coating then red oxide primer no hardener. No chip problems so far. Finish coat I did not use hardener either. I’ve never been a big fan of hardener. Took longer to dry, I waited four weeks to buff it out. Worked great so far, it’s been three years on that paint.
Thanks for the fine video, I have used several types of rust converter, the one I used the most is just phosphoric acids. Those don't have a buildup film and treats all metal with rust it turns black into iron phosphate and tins the bare metal without rust. I just wipe it on, and time set then wipe it dry.
At English Town racetrack about 25 years ago I went to a Puerto Rico vs US drag racing....all the Puerto Ricans had these old corollas with 4 bangers.....it was before the import scene was big. These are fast cars,I personally saw one beat a big block 4 speed 69 camaro.the Corolla pulled the wheels off the ground in 1st, 2nd, 3rd... This car brings me back.
Got me shirt and sticker ordered, sticker is going on my formally rusted Honda Eg hatch, only from watching this channel gave me the confidence to tackle cutting out the rear quarters and having to fabricate custom pieces, the whole inner fender and various pieces. Next on the list my 1976 camaro, and that one will get a sticker when it's done!
I am not a millionaire and I live in Wales and it cold and rains a lot - I get the same flash rusting as you. I make my own phosphate solution to save money and I can tell you it works well. I buy strong phosphoric acid by the gallon of the internet last time I got 88% weight weight phosphoric acid (its used for cleaning milking machines and swimming pools) it cost me around twenty quid! if I put 10 (ish) by volume in tap water - my water here is very pure but hard water is much better and paint it on the steel like you have. I get after the black areas to lift the rust out of the metal some times it gives me a nice new hole! But I would rather have a bit more welding than bubbling paint! I use a wire brush on a drill till its all gone the acid and mechanical action pulls the rust out of the steel.
I will keep hitting the black ares till its gone - a little at a time - I use the phosphate every day I work on the cars after I finish. I have never had flash rusting since - I know it lasts years! Once ready foe primer I DA with 180 grit and a scotch rate in tight areas and blow the dust off and it sticks very well. I do all this to save time and money! 50 gallons for to twenty quid can’t be bad!!!!
Ten percent wasn’t clear enough!
I know it's just in primer but white looks really good on that car! Can't wait to see more on this one Tony!
Akzonobel makes great products. I use their sign industry paint all the time. They also make sikkens Automotive paint. That paint is one of the best paints I have ever used.
You're at a good position on your project Tony. Metal work completed, she's straight, solid, and sealed. The dirty work is done... A sense of accomplishment, and satisfaction. Now, only 50 jillion steps left to go! b.t.w. nobodies reached 50 jillion, they are Never Done, done.
15 minutes! Lol sounds like something I would say. I'm 2 days late, but I'm still here.
I have learned so much about metal work watching you. How in the world do you get all your energy. I get tired just watching you work. I guess it's that northern air. I live in Florida and it is July right now. 100 degree days are no fun. Great work. Thank you.
I first used rust converter about 30 yrs agoNever had a problem with it. First time i used it I did floor pans Never painted it , it took 18 months before it started to rust again
Great tip with the masking tape to remove that sealer.
Any industrial epoxy primer will do for sealing. In Aus there is a product called EpoTek which os meant for priming excavators and other industrial equipment. It doesn’t come in many colours but it has amazing high build, etches into bare metal and dries absolutely rock hard. Same with yours, you have to sand it within a certain time frame, but you can paint over it within a day or two.
Good information about your rust treatment. Thank you.
The primer makes all the headaches along the way, simply disappear. Preparation is a long and daunting task. Keep bringing them back to life.
Thanks for all the videos you post. I've used many of the techniques you've shown us doing metal repairs on my car. Sharing your knowledge is appreciated by many, if not all, of your viewers. Best Regards - Mike
Never mind your skills which are plentiful, I love your attitude - it goes a long way when nothing you face is a problem!
Awesome Job Tony... 💪💪💪
Good to see "Crusty" again...
Keep Up The Great Work... 👍👍👍
As always... another riveting video Tony. It's always a treat watching your channel. Always enjoy the tips an tricks you share. Thank you for sharing your knowledge as always. Keep up the awesome content. Totally love the channel. Keep On Keeping On Brother!!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
It's always nice to see it in color and rusty color.
Fine work Fitzee!! Looking great 👍
You do great work , and are well aware of what you are accomplishing . Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing it with us !!! God Bless
Ok Fitzee you got me excited. Can't wait till it's done.
It's looking phenomenal! You do really good work! I appreciate you sharing your work and methods with us.
The converter some times will not stick to the non rusted metal , I sand it back off once I figure the converting is done.
Can't wait to see that old corolla painted up 👍
My first winter beater was a '79 corolla hatch when I was 16. It was a shitbox but I liked it.
Spraying the coating with thinners is brilliant, you may have converted the converter into to glue. If this works it would solve a lot of issues in a inexpensive way. Great video
Thanks fitzee, great videos as always..im slowly getting my Hilux sorted. Have been watching since the start. My 7 year old is starting to watch you as well. 😆😆🇮🇪🇮🇪
I’m a big fan of rust converters and its interesting to see how the different brands work out and different tips to help them do the job. Good tips.
Another great video Fitzee!!! I envy the feeling of all the rust work being done 😂 You make it look easy!! I learn something everytime I watch a video of yours!!!
You only learn something of you can duplicate the work
I remember when the Toyota was a Crusty Duckling. 🦆 It's amazing to see the transformation! 🦢
From what I understand about rust is: Black rust is iron oxide 2, while red rust is iron oxide 3. Red rust is a complex chemical with a bunch of sub families. The big difference is red rust expands as it is formed, where black rust almost no expansion at all. As red rust expands, it will pry coatings (paint) away from the steel and expand the patch with each wet to dry cycle. Black rust is very like bluing on rifles and tends to protect the steel. I tried using rust converter about 30 years ago just like you did and It is still fine. Painted with acrylic lacquer. I learn a bunch with each of your videos!
Fabulous job on Crusty. That is some primer.
Looking good. Great experiment. I trust we will learn a lot through the process. Thank you.
Tony.....I myself am not a show car finish guy but have worked with/known guys that were!......I"m more of a rat rod finish guy myself!.......besides I used to beat em up roundy rounding so I'm happy with a 50Ft/100 Mph finish as it is!
i am in the process of working on my 1990 mustang gt and the biggest thing i have learned from you is patience. another big thing is you have given me confidence to try do it myself after all its just metal and it is my car thank you.
Hi fitzee
When you was talking about dumdum, here in the UK we could get dumdum in a can, the can was all yellow with the writings in black. Using the same principle as window putty to apply. Looked it up, it was made by Eldro and classed as sealing compound.
That’s a great product and now really hard to find. I was lucky to find a couple of tins at an Autojumble years ago.
Looks like a Fine! Fine!! Job Mr. Fitzee! Love your channel! Please keep the Video's coming! Going to be a fine Rod!
Man.. I love these videos on this car !!!
the little racer with a coat of dressing looks awesome ...👀✔👍
I love your approach to getting stuff done! Thanks for sharing your awesome knowledge!
Great job as usual 👏 can't wait to see the rest of the panels fitted.
Holy cow Tony. It looks like new! Just been loving this series!
Coming out beautiful. Nice job. Thanks for the videos.
Hi Tony, Crusty looks good all in one color. There was a lot of good explaination of why you do things a certain way as well as the difference between a primer that bridges and one that doesn't. Very interesting and something to think about when you are choosing a primer. There are so many different products available today, it could make your head spin! Thanks for the video!
As always, amazing content. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge, experience, and mistakes/imperfections along the way. Nobody is perfect but we can all learn, every day.
Inspector General 🐈 seems to approve of your work, and tire choice. Big wins today, Fitzee!
Glad to see you're showing your prep work, I'm sure I'm not the only one wondering what you do and what you use. I used Interseal on my Ranger I did rockers and fenders. It is one tough primer. I also top coated the lower section of my Truck with Raptor bed liner. Thanks Tony...
Wow, crusty is looking good. Thank you for sharing this information of rust converters with us. Yes I have used rust converters, mostly from the eastwood company. Thanks again for sharing this with us.
Thanks voor all the great video,s . I use tannox fore Rost convertor it's very cheap and works great meybey u can't test it some day kluthe tannox .I am using the interseal 670hs now and loving it
Documenting these technique for will be invaluable for edification of posterity. Thank you.
Lots of knowledge in this video Tony. Fellas don't know the struggle we have with corrosion here in Newfoundland.
Thanks and Great work on Crusty! Most would just send it to metal recycling (if they had any sense LOL)
Keep the "rustoration" videos coming please
Awesome job Fitzee... I like how you did the process... and the International primer ... showing it all and how it came out in the end ... ! Ready for you with your next thing happening... love ya man! ... Great work!
I'm going to try and get some of your merchandise!!!... need some shirts for sure.. I need part of ya in Alberta to show you of ya know... take care my friend!
I really like how you get comfortable to do your work I work the same way in my shop work smart not hard
Tony that body is going to make a great looking race car really like it the way you built it. Can’t wait to see it finished.
Awesome work sir! As always, the tips are (beyond) good!
Your booth works well, the air was clear. when you were spraying. Interested in seeing how it works when clearing. Fantastic
I forget how small that car is until I saw you standing next to it . The car looks great in that white primer and one step closer , very cool !
I can't wait to see what it looks like when you get done
You're the Best!!! Cheers, Hans
I found the episode and watched it . Thanks the tips were good
Very interesting video Tony! I now know a lot more information about bridging and primer. Thank you so much for the information.
I know nothing about body work but I enjoy your explanations and the "experimental method" you use. Great videos, thank you!
I have loaded that same product in my spray gun. It really bonds well to rusted areas but I run over it with the DA before I prime. Keep up the great work cousin.
West Virginia Fitz
Tony can’t wait to see more! “Until next time!”
Wow, crusty ain't so crusty anymore. Nice job Fitzee.
Nice to see this car getting just another step closer to being done. Yes, many more steps, but looking good Tony.
She's ready to be a driver in that primer. Looking great! Big step forward.
She looks beautiful!
I use Vactan for rust treatment. It’s bloody amazing. It’s very similar to what you’ve used. I just brush it all over like you. 20years later after just rolling paint on it’s still rust free. Great stuff.
10:58 - The tape hack to get the butyl off 🤯😳
Truth! I spent hrs scraping,not knowing this
Amazing accomplishment. I think you are on the right track with sealing it up. I’ve had good luck with rust converter over bear metal. That primer seems like good stuff too. Looking forward to seeing how it holds up over time especially up there in your harsh environment. Love the videos!
Another great video! Thank you for all the info on the rust converter process. Looks like the primer went on very well- that stuff is thick!
I really like your videos. Thanks.
Love your videos. This is a super interesting project. Really looking forward to your continued work. Thanks
Thanks for the explanation primer and paint is a hole new skill
Thanks Fitzee, I've absorbed alot of useful tips n tricks from your videos. 👍
Thank you
Looks good. Inspector approved, passed the walk around!!
Crusty !!! …. love your work and inspiration ! …nice tip on cleaning off the windshield sealer 💪🏻…. Also I used rust mort on a couple cars the same way !! …. It’s amazing stuff and u can feel the surface is sealed … if it’s dry and scuffed for the primer and these products including body fillers “ like each other “ …. That’s the Bottomline 👍🏻
You're a braver man than me Tony, mixing the unknown and laying it down, never in a million years would I dare. I'd be too scared in case I had to take it all back off, well maybe too lazy hehe.
Anyway, the car looks spot on, nice and solid now and ready to move on with the build.
Crustee is lucky having you for a dad !! Great job !!
Great to see FItzee I do stuff very much the same way.....some is experimental. and some has years of experience. But like you said you check the surface before you put primer on there. Like I say to everyone .....you will use filler and that is what matters.
36:05 Interseal 670HS 2 part epoxy - industrial and marine coating with zinc, that is also tintable.
Tony it really looks Nice Can’t wait to see you putting it together
thanks for sharing your expertese with every one I really enjoy the way you explaine everything you are a real insperation to me! makes me want to tackle more jobs on my own race car. Thanks again!
I use a similar rust converter....and put epoxy primer over it....Then painted over that about 2 hours later in the window.....Took my pocket knife and tried to do everthing I could to scratch it off. and it would not come off. I could not chip it off I could not scratch it off. every coat would not separate....you should be fine.
Bad Chad down the hwy never treats his cars lol i like your videos 👍👍👍
Hey Tony. Just a quick thought on your Rust-Killer worries. You say that the product says "Do not put on bare steel / metal". My interpretation of that is "Do not put on NEW bare steel / metal". Why I say this is that I asked a bloke I know a similar question when I was rust-treating an area on the Mini. This mate restores his own cars and paints boats for a living and it was him who told me to treat the rust and use a rust-inhibiting primer - a marine primer in preference, like the International brand (which he swears by, by the way). I won't quote him exactly as he isn't known for G-rated speech at the best of times and there were a number of references to certain body parts, bodily functions and....er....other things that don't really add a lot to the explanation, but do make for an entertaining story if you were in the room.
Anyway, the guts of what he said was that it's perfectly fine to use on older steel panels that have been worked or painted previously - like what you (and I now) use for patching - as it will still do its job on older steel due to the way steel ages even when painted - ie: there will always be some minor rust or discolouration or pock marks for it to react with. New steel - unless its been heavily weathered and is covered in surface rust - then no. Don't use it on NEW steel as "fresh" panel steel is not porous enough (for want of a better term) and there will be nothing for it to act on. Use the product as directed, ignore that line and she'll be jake, mate - as long as you keep doing repairs the way you have been and using scrap / recycled / repurposed steel to get the job done. He told me to "just coat the whole ... thing to be sure and for ...'s sake, never you ... mind about getting your ... magnifying glass and .... detail brush or you will be there all ... year". Mini has lived outside uncovered since the rockers were done for two years now. Rust has popped out in other places due to the humidity, but the work I did on the rockers looks like the day I painted it - thanks to both him and the tips and tricks from your good self.
He reckons the anti-rust product company put that disclaimer about new steel on there in an attempt to stop Joe Average putting it on bare new steel as a "preventative" instead of an epoxy corrosion-inhibiting primer (or as well as) and then trying to sue the company when the topcoat reacts and falls off. I would not be surprised...
All the best
I don't blame you a bit for doing the filler work on top of primer, I've been doing it that way for over 10 years, after having fillers over bare metal pop with rust underneath I realized that metal will absorb moisture in colder temperatures and can get trapped under the bodywork, I haven't had any more problems with my fillers on top of the primer, I also prime and seal over the top when the filler and blocking work is done, that primer is thick enough that you should be able to block most of the sanding scratches out before spraying the final coat, great job Tony and the tips are always good, still waiting on patches, 😉 😉
I got too many projects. Lol. Patches is still here
Another great video!!👌👌👌
Really enjoying this project!
Great tips as usual!! 👍👍👍
primer shows it all but its good to get it all sealed its a shame things are so expensive for you guys up north but you are not letting it stop you keep the videos they are so helpful
looks good. I wiped my clean metal with pitting rust down with phosphoric acid based treatment and then painted on the latex based tannic acid treatment you used to get the pits where needed. double tap rust protection.