No not really! The checks confirm the regulator has the permanent, switched and ground conditions. If they are all ok, it would indicate the regulator is faulty if its either under or over charging and of course this assumes you have a good alternator voltage! There is no simple way of checking the regulator directly as it contains internal diodes, thyristors and an IC/voltage regulator. Making these checks confirms or not, if the regulator is OK! Calling it "Checking your harness Wires", could be "any" wire on the bike. Cody was not just checking the wiring, he was checking for the appropriate voltages. Checking for voltages confirms the wiring is ok as a matter of course. This is a clear and practical way to check for a regulator fault as Cody indicates.
Love that multi meter I swear when you checked the ground wires it set off an alarm that sounded just like a train horn cool dubbing and great info on what can be very confusing good video
Thanks for the video. I went out and bought a volt meter to troubleshoot my battery (not charging) and lo and behold the the connector from the alternator to the rectifier was completely toast. I was able to make the necessary repairs for a total cost of $15 (the cost of the volt meter). Again...thanks for the information and education.
Thanks alot bro you gave me the fix on your first test of battery voltage check through the starter solenoid red/white wire constant battery feed. I'd bought a new starter solenoid and unknown to me the battery/motor poles were reversed so I wasn't getting regulator charging voltage to the battery, I have now.!!
Your video helped me too. I have an amateur background in electronics and it was easy to figure out the rectifier side but I did not know how the regulator side was made, I've heard that some regulators don't need a battery hooked up to it to put out a charge but that's just what I heard, that don't mean it's true :-) Now knowing now that the regulator uses a transistor and the fact that all transistors need a certain voltage at the gate (probably 12 volts with a 9 volt threshold in this case), it makes sense that the regulator won't have much of an output (if any) if the battery isn't there or if the battery is bad. Mine will put out about 2 volts with no battery (Kawasaki 250). My battery was reading under 8 volts and that voltage probably isn't enough to energize the transistor. I hooked up a large deep cycle marine battery to it and it was charging the marine battery (it was charging at 13.5 volts and climbing which was 1 volt over static voltage). Thanks for the informative video!
Thank you so much for the video man!!! Saved me hundreds of $, I really thought i need to replace a few things but after watching this and double checking everything first it turned out to just be a loose connection lmao!!
I just accidentally found you you have saved my life I mean my bike lol I appreciate it and keep making videos simple like this I love it please don't start adding a whole bunch of extra shit At the beginning that we need to watch before we can get your content I don't have time for that you make this easy
Nice video. Thanks for making it. I got here looking for gl1200 testing and info. Although the principle is of course, the same, the gl1200's are a wee bit different in practice.
Great video's by you. All of them are very helpful. Wanted to ask you a question: even with a fully charged battery, if a three phase stator has low output on one phase, could it still cause the bike to sputter in the mid-range? 2000 Honda Shadow 1100 Aero. Stator is not shorted to ground, all three phases are continuous with each other. Two phases are at 4.7 volts, one phase at 2.2 volts. Bike starts and idles fine. Sputters around 3K rpm. Coils and wires replaced. Carbs clean and floats set. Fuel pump relay bypassed. Thanks !!
My mechanic told me it was my Suzuki Savage regulator and when I swaped it I got no charging improvement. Testing it my stator is getting grounded and my regulator to battery black wire only got 0.12v when the ignition key was turned to on. Is that normal for that wire in this bike? Should I focus on swapping the stator first? Your videos have been very helpful. Thank you!
oceantransistor same boat here. My triumph tt reads around .09 with the key switched in for the black wire. Will I have to go all through the harness trying to find something wrong?
I was driving my bike and it died not getting any lights or anything anymore found a blown fuse but when I put it back in even with no key in the rectifier started smoking so I pulled it out what's ur thoughts
Thank you for the excellent video. Have a chronic issue on Suzuki DL 1000 (2008). The rectifier has been replaced with an original Suzuki one. But the stator may not be n original part or part meant for this Suzuki. To replace genuine or OEM will be costly and replacing it is not the first priority till we can be sure of the fault. The issue / symptom is that the volts goes down when engine is revved up. Its a 3 phase system. Have tested using 2 different digital cot meters onto the battery terminals. Am only guessing its an stator coil designed for a different / proprietary type of rectifier regulator. Any thoughts or views on this??
Thanks for the helpful video ! Just wanted to add that on some bikes like mine , V-strom DL1000 2004, the input to the IC is the same as the positive of the battery. In other words there is no black wire as you show in the video on my bike, the other 4 wires you show are present.
Of the MANY videos on how to check the rectifier/regulator, yours is the only one I've found that addresses the switched 12V wire. THANK YOU. I've had two defective rect/reg units (aftermarket) shipped to me, so I was concerned that the something on the bike is blowing them up... but the stator seems ok (24-90VAC on all coils/no ground shorts). I do have two questions - just how hot does a "good" rect/regulator typically run? Too hot to touch? Thanks.again for a great vid.
Tony Borzumato Glad the video appealed to what you needed! They can get pretty stinkin' hot. Sometimes location of where it's mounted causes them to overheat depending on how old the bike is etc. What I am not sure of is what is the reason for some systems getting hotter than others. Whether it's poor quality, bad battery causing the system to work overtime, or a bad connection. If you notice it get extremely hot that it would burn you, then that is unsafe. Either relocate the unit to allow air to brush over it constantly or even try a newer unit and compare results.
I never noticed how hot the OEM unit ran when it was working correctly... Now that it is defective, it gets VERY hot (and pulls about 16 Amps AC through each of the stator wires at IDLE. Woof. Stator checks good - similar voltages from all three coils, 24-90VAC, depending on engine RPM. No shorts to ground., BTW. I have a new unit on order from Rick's - will let you know how that one is.
Oh - my bike is a 2002 ZX9r, so the wire colors are different - there are two positive wires (White/Red) and Two negative wires (black), and the one switched wire (brown). The two positives are connected together internally, as are the two blacks. The 3 stator wires are all yellow.
@@TheMotorcycleMD Heloi, nice vid! Do you think heat is the killer? Or do defective units get hot? I put on a new rectifier, & it it runs fine. But I came across a nos 82 Suzuki Rectifier in the box, & I'm thinking that it's probably a lot better than this aftermarket. I see the aftermarket ones, all over the web, (with different labels), but I suspect most of them are from the same company , in chinah.
Hey bud let me ask you, I had a bad regulator because it was charging 15.1 volts. I had several new regulators but they were all 5 pin with an extra black wire. I know I shouldn't have but I cut the connector and hard wired everything to the new regulator except for the black wire because there was no black wire. Just a green red white and yellow. Surprisingly the voltage came down to 13 and my light worked which they didn't earlier with the bad regulator. What do I do with the black wire? I noticed my digital odometer and speedometer stopped working when I put the new regulator on. Maybe I should have connected the black wire with one of the other wires? Please help!
Every time someone says " lets try not to make this overcomplicated " for some reason the nod monster lands on my shoulder and pushes my eyes shut. I like the term KISS keep it simple stupid much better.
If I have a bad regulator can it make my fuel pump burn up? My fuel pump is getting very hot and stopped working like it was being grounded out. It was a brand new pump.
This is very good info ,many should learn from it , , the only thing i think is if you were to show poeple the ac. / dc. Different. An. Ohms basic info on your multi meter. ,thanks
If your regulator is the kind that send the extra voltage to ground (Shunt style) take it out and throw it as far as you can. They're junk. They run too hot and will probably burn out your stator over time. Get an after market Mosfet regulator and your charging problems will be over.
If those two connectors are indeed melted together do you suggest installing a new stator and rectifier? or just rewiring those plugs? having this issue on a 82 dohc cb750
i think I'm having a problem with this part and now feel confident in testing it. bike cranks and runs but trying to start it again it clicks. I'm a day or so when I try to start it it cranks. the thing that's also odd is the headlight remains of when it cranks but functions properly when it doesn't want to crank🤔
It's a 02 gsxr 750. The problem started one night when I stalled the bike. It runs perfect as long as it's running but if i try to restart it it turns over very slow then the speedo dies from what it seems lack of power.
It's the most expensive battery that advance auto parts had to offer. I will check the battery connection tomorrow. Thanks for the great vid and help!👊
Anyone know why stators are sold with only the female end of the connector And the rectifier is sold without the male end? The male end on my r6 burnt up and it seems close to impossible to find the part to fix it. Currently reconstructing the loom myself.
Hello, can you explain why some regulators have 2 positive and 2 ground wires like yours, while some only have 1 positive and 1 ground? i want to replace my regulator with one from a different bike, but my original has 1 positive and ground, while the one i want to use has 2 positives and 2 grounds. can i just wire the both positives to my single positive, and both grounds to my single ground? also, what is the point of the signal wire? why not just feed it directly to the battery, so i can be sure that it will always feed the actual battery voltage?
my wiring is messed up can i put the output of the rectifier to the battery with a 20A fuse without needing a relay? i presume the diode will stop it draining the battery
Is it possible to do away with the battery for a 76 Yamaha RD 350 two stroke? Friend has one on a sand rail type quad and we're trying to lighten it up by making it kickstart only it has no lights
Hey guy, a question regarding led turnsignal "hyperflash" 2007 Honda 919 flushmount front led signals and an integrated rear "turn signals built into the rear tail light" there is a relay designed to plug and play? For hyperflash on Hondas. Can you help me out with a manufacturer and part number please? I have contacted Revzilla they can't help and when Google sooo many come up I thought of you as you are the only person who would actually have hands on experience with this kind of thing. Thanks John in Shenandoah valley VA.
Hey my xy 150t keep dieing wen I got it it runs with only a jump it didn't have the in line fuse holder so I just but one in today still won't stay charge do you think I should get a new rectifier or do you think it's something else please inform me ASAP
I have a 2002 Honda Shadow 600 my r&r is bad according to watching your video it has 4 wires to red to Green I have a 2003 Honda Shadow 750 for parts it's r&r seems to be working but it only has one red and one green wire could I use that on my 600
Ultima 120ci. Turns over no spark, has a Ultima 53-645 electronic ignition ,status lite , &voes/rtd lights Should lights come on when key is on ? None on this
I don't fully understand. My bike runs fine. Charges the battery fine. I have a sound system. The amp keeps popping fuses. Everything on the sound system has been redone Multiple times and triple checked. It's not the amp or wiring. The amp only shuts down the moment I rev the bike. Is it the volt regulator that's blowing my amps? Is it possibly over charging?
can the Regulator Rectifier cause power issues (that's not related to battery) ? .. for example my bike has dim lights that get brighter as RPM increase and rough idle problems .. ive "pinned" the stator and that seems OK and my battery does charge (new battery)
hi bro i need an information, i have a rebel 250 2005 but the wires fron the stator to the rectifier are broken and i don´t know how to conect them the three yellow wires the rectifier is the same you show in the video thanks sorry but mi english is not good enougth
Thanks for the vid. Ive got a weird thing going on. When my bike is running and i rev it, the voltage on the battery drops, when I release the throttle it goes up and stays around 12ish. What could be causing this? Thanks again
Thanks, made it so simple. appreciate it. i have no signal (Voltage) when ignition switch is on? wont start. crash starts, but battery goes flat after 30mins of riding. i guess its somewhere between the ignition switch and the Regulator/Rectifier. but that wire is all loomed up with a thousand other wires? :-( any ideas?
Alan Zou "Grounding" is referring to anything that involves the negative side of the battery. The frame of the bike and the motor, are all connected to that negative side of the battery. So if a wire has power from the positive and touches any part that is grounded or (connected to) the negative side of the battery (I.E pretty much every hard metal part on the bike that is not rubber mounted) it can produce a short to ground. Because power (voltage) needs a load. That's the easiest way I can think to put it. Hope that makes sense.
Question. Could I replace all my charging system from Hyosung with Suzuki. Stator/Rectifier/Coil? I would have to fav up something. I just feel my bike keeps clicking, I charge the battery and, it runs for, a day or, two then nothing.
I have a 2002 yamaha R6, I changed out the stator and put a new battery in. The battery is still being drained while the bike is on. I can't figure it out, do you think the regulator is causing the problem?
Jesse Carlton Have you done tests on the unit? If the stator is new, battery is new and the wiring is good. Then yes, since that's the last component in the charging system.
I have Yamaha VSTAR 2000 1100cc, My motorcycls is not chargin the battery while tbe bike has done around 70 kms or when it became hot. I have changed the rectifier and the ECU. Anyone that could help me? I have also checkex the stator and it seems to be ok.
Hey. Great vid. My "black" wire from ignition switch reads ~1-2 V lower than my battery is. Is that a possible issue? Iv checked all charging system components and they all check out fine, but my battery is not getting charged.. :
+DAriusss4 I wouldn't see that as a concern. Not big enough to not allow a battery to charge. Check the output of your stator by measuring A/C voltage OUT of the stator on each yellow leg. Unplug the stator connection and start the bike. Red lead on one yellow wire black lead on good ground. Meter set to A/Cvolts. Measure each leg and do the same test with the motor reved above 2,400rpm. Let me know what you get. Crichards750@gmail.com
So Iv finally measured it. Slightly above 2,4k rpm Iv got 16,6 16,7 16,6. I didn't disconnect the stator connection since its a exciter field type... In addition what Iv noticed that while the bike was cold everything checked out fine with charging, I was getting ¬14 V to the battery, but after like 10-20 mins of messing around it, it dropped down to 12.something... I did test the stator after it was warmed up and got the same 16,6 16,7 16,6 readings.
Check your connectors between alternator and regulator/rectifier! Corrosion at the connector contacts can cause these errors...but from far away, it is difficult to point it directly.
just put meter on battery with system off, then start increase rpm slightly and measure again, that id your output to battery. If no change keep trouble shooting.
HELP!!!!!!!!!!! When i turn on the ignition i get one volt less on the black wire (10.5Vac) I have a '85 magna vf500 (v30) everything else with the test comes back WNL. When i rev the bike voltage goes up to +13-14v but when idleing it can drop down to 10v. (its killing my battery)
Hey Cody, I have a question if you don't mind. I own a Hyosung Aquila GV250 EFI and my stator was fried a couple of weeks back so my mechanic replaced it with a new one, doing a shitty job, as he removed the supplied plugs and welded the three yellow wires from the stator to the yellow ones of the reg/rec , is it important to know the order of the three (1,2,3) or it does not matter? Anyway, my stator died again, the good news is that it's under warranty what I'm not sure whether to replace it alone or swap the reg/rec as well. The reg/rec was checked and I'm getting: 578, .578 and .435 is that a problem? Thanks in advance
This is good, but you should call it "Checking your harness wires".
No not really!
The checks confirm the regulator has the permanent, switched and ground conditions. If they are all ok, it would indicate the regulator is faulty if its either under or over charging and of course this assumes you have a good alternator voltage! There is no simple way of checking the regulator directly as it contains internal diodes, thyristors and an IC/voltage regulator. Making these checks confirms or not, if the regulator is OK!
Calling it "Checking your harness Wires", could be "any" wire on the bike.
Cody was not just checking the wiring, he was checking for the appropriate voltages. Checking for voltages confirms the wiring is ok as a matter of course.
This is a clear and practical way to check for a regulator fault as Cody indicates.
That's great for people that actually know how to do this kind of stuff
Love that multi meter I swear when you checked the ground wires it set off an alarm that sounded just like a train horn cool dubbing and great info on what can be very confusing good video
Thanks for the video. I went out and bought a volt meter to troubleshoot my battery (not charging) and lo and behold the the connector from the alternator to the rectifier was completely toast. I was able to make the necessary repairs for a total cost of $15 (the cost of the volt meter). Again...thanks for the information and education.
Thanks alot bro you gave me the fix on your first test of battery voltage check through the starter solenoid red/white wire constant battery feed. I'd bought a new starter solenoid and unknown to me the battery/motor poles were reversed so I wasn't getting regulator charging voltage to the battery, I have now.!!
Great information, I have one of those test meter. I never even opened the package, I will now . Thanks again for the info.
Your video helped me too.
I have an amateur background in electronics and it was easy to figure out the rectifier side but I did not know how the regulator side was made, I've heard that some regulators don't need a battery hooked up to it to put out a charge but that's just what I heard, that don't mean it's true :-)
Now knowing now that the regulator uses a transistor and the fact that all transistors need a certain voltage at the gate (probably 12 volts with a 9 volt threshold in this case), it makes sense that the regulator won't have much of an output (if any) if the battery isn't there or if the battery is bad. Mine will put out about 2 volts with no battery (Kawasaki 250).
My battery was reading under 8 volts and that voltage probably isn't enough to energize the transistor.
I hooked up a large deep cycle marine battery to it and it was charging the marine battery (it was charging at 13.5 volts and climbing which was 1 volt over static voltage).
Thanks for the informative video!
Thanks Cody.Found out today that honda doesnt sell the regulators for the '86 honda shadow 1100 anymore.Discontinued.
Thank you so much for the video man!!! Saved me hundreds of $, I really thought i need to replace a few things but after watching this and double checking everything first it turned out to just be a loose connection lmao!!
I just accidentally found you you have saved my life I mean my bike lol I appreciate it and keep making videos simple like this I love it please don't start adding a whole bunch of extra shit At the beginning that we need to watch before we can get your content I don't have time for that you make this easy
Thanks for this video, so much better when you understand why and how things work
Go mmi
Nice video. Thanks for making it. I got here looking for gl1200 testing and info. Although the principle is of course, the same, the gl1200's are a wee bit different in practice.
Great video's by you. All of them are very helpful. Wanted to ask you a question: even with a fully charged battery, if a three phase stator has low output on one phase, could it still cause the bike to sputter in the mid-range? 2000 Honda Shadow 1100 Aero. Stator is not shorted to ground, all three phases are continuous with each other. Two phases are at 4.7 volts, one phase at 2.2 volts. Bike starts and idles fine. Sputters around 3K rpm. Coils and wires replaced. Carbs clean and floats set. Fuel pump relay bypassed. Thanks !!
This is just checking the harness.
Checking the regulator/rectifier is a whole different thing !
Thanks for posting this and also the advice on your website. Really useful. 👍🏻
Probably the best explanation I’ve watched on this. Very good job explaining this. Thank you.
My mechanic told me it was my Suzuki Savage regulator and when I swaped it I got no charging improvement. Testing it my stator is getting grounded and my regulator to battery black wire only got 0.12v when the ignition key was turned to on. Is that normal for that wire in this bike? Should I focus on swapping the stator first? Your videos have been very helpful. Thank you!
oceantransistor same boat here. My triumph tt reads around .09 with the key switched in for the black wire. Will I have to go all through the harness trying to find something wrong?
are you checking your harness wire? but not the regulator itself
All I knew about electricity 7 minutes ago was that it shocks you. This is YT gold.
Damn I thought that train was outside my house. Maybe because I live right by the tracks too. Damn house shakes every single time a train comes by
Thanks for the info.. You made perfect sense when explaining, Laymens terms is the way to go. Thanks again.
Excellent! I need to belong to your free maintenance course. I am NOT Mr. Tech.
I was driving my bike and it died not getting any lights or anything anymore found a blown fuse but when I put it back in even with no key in the rectifier started smoking so I pulled it out what's ur thoughts
Thank you for the excellent video. Have a chronic issue on Suzuki DL 1000 (2008). The rectifier has been replaced with an original Suzuki one. But the stator may not be n original part or part meant for this Suzuki. To replace genuine or OEM will be costly and replacing it is not the first priority till we can be sure of the fault. The issue / symptom is that the volts goes down when engine is revved up. Its a 3 phase system. Have tested using 2 different digital cot meters onto the battery terminals. Am only guessing its an stator coil designed for a different / proprietary type of rectifier regulator. Any thoughts or views on this??
When I turned the key on and checked the negative wire, I got 30 mA, but no OL when I checked ohms. What does that mean?
Are we allowed to sat “transistor” or will that offend male and female connectors?
Thanks for the helpful video ! Just wanted to add that on some bikes like mine , V-strom DL1000 2004, the input to the IC is the same as the positive of the battery. In other words there is no black wire as you show in the video on my bike, the other 4 wires you show are present.
Of the MANY videos on how to check the rectifier/regulator, yours is the only one I've found that addresses the switched 12V wire. THANK YOU. I've had two defective rect/reg units (aftermarket) shipped to me, so I was concerned that the something on the bike is blowing them up... but the stator seems ok (24-90VAC on all coils/no ground shorts). I do have two questions - just how hot does a "good" rect/regulator typically run? Too hot to touch? Thanks.again for a great vid.
Tony Borzumato Glad the video appealed to what you needed! They can get pretty stinkin' hot. Sometimes location of where it's mounted causes them to overheat depending on how old the bike is etc. What I am not sure of is what is the reason for some systems getting hotter than others. Whether it's poor quality, bad battery causing the system to work overtime, or a bad connection. If you notice it get extremely hot that it would burn you, then that is unsafe. Either relocate the unit to allow air to brush over it constantly or even try a newer unit and compare results.
I never noticed how hot the OEM unit ran when it was working correctly... Now that it is defective, it gets VERY hot (and pulls about 16 Amps AC through each of the stator wires at IDLE. Woof. Stator checks good - similar voltages from all three coils, 24-90VAC, depending on engine RPM. No shorts to ground., BTW. I have a new unit on order from Rick's - will let you know how that one is.
Oh - my bike is a 2002 ZX9r, so the wire colors are different - there are two positive wires (White/Red) and Two negative wires (black), and the one switched wire (brown). The two positives are connected together internally, as are the two blacks. The 3 stator wires are all yellow.
Tony Borzumato High resistance is the leading cause of hot and melted connections. Definitely a problem if it's too hot to touch at idle!
@@TheMotorcycleMD Heloi, nice vid! Do you think heat is the killer? Or do defective units get hot? I put on a new rectifier, & it it runs fine. But I came across a nos 82 Suzuki Rectifier in the box, & I'm thinking that it's probably a lot better than this aftermarket. I see the aftermarket ones, all over the web, (with different labels), but I suspect most of them are from the same company , in chinah.
Great stuff Cody,it comes in handy, the electronics knowledge I do have,thank you for your posts friend😊😊😊
Will a bad regulator/rectifier cause the bike to shut off after riding it?
You are a good teacher man !
Will the rectifier keep me from getting spark to the plug ?
Hey bud let me ask you, I had a bad regulator because it was charging 15.1 volts. I had several new regulators but they were all 5 pin with an extra black wire. I know I shouldn't have but I cut the connector and hard wired everything to the new regulator except for the black wire because there was no black wire. Just a green red white and yellow. Surprisingly the voltage came down to 13 and my light worked which they didn't earlier with the bad regulator. What do I do with the black wire? I noticed my digital odometer and speedometer stopped working when I put the new regulator on. Maybe I should have connected the black wire with one of the other wires? Please help!
Every time someone says " lets try not to make this overcomplicated " for some reason the nod monster lands on my shoulder and pushes my eyes shut. I like the term KISS keep it simple stupid much better.
If I have a bad regulator can it make my fuel pump burn up? My fuel pump is getting very hot and stopped working like it was being grounded out. It was a brand new pump.
Well done mate. Very well explained
This is very good info ,many should learn from it , , the only thing i think is if you were to show poeple the ac. / dc. Different. An. Ohms basic info on your multi meter. ,thanks
If your regulator is the kind that send the extra voltage to ground (Shunt style) take it out and throw it as far as you can. They're junk. They run too hot and will probably burn out your stator over time. Get an after market Mosfet regulator and your charging problems will be over.
If those two connectors are indeed melted together do you suggest installing a new stator and rectifier? or just rewiring those plugs? having this issue on a 82 dohc cb750
Could you help me where is the voltage regulator on a 1993 Kawasaki 600R Ninja
Excellent Cody...
Thank you so much from Vietnam.
Can all the harness wires be checked this way with dc volts or would you have to change it up because some are charged by the stator?
I tested the stator per your video, and also checked the rectifier. All your tests checked out. What am I missing?
You summarized it so nicely. It all came together in the end . Thank you for explaining
Thank you so much, please help me with Honda CBR 900rr 1995 voltage regulator.
Couldn't have explained better...brilliant 👌
i think I'm having a problem with this part and now feel confident in testing it. bike cranks and runs but trying to start it again it clicks. I'm a day or so when I try to start it it cranks. the thing that's also odd is the headlight remains of when it cranks but functions properly when it doesn't want to crank🤔
fredthomas8888 🤔🤔 What kind of bike is it?
It's a 02 gsxr 750. The problem started one night when I stalled the bike. It runs perfect as long as it's running but if i try to restart it it turns over very slow then the speedo dies from what it seems lack of power.
fredthomas8888 What brand battery do you have? Age? Battery terminals tight?
It's the most expensive battery that advance auto parts had to offer. I will check the battery connection tomorrow. Thanks for the great vid and help!👊
I'll let you know how it goes.
Anyone know why stators are sold with only the female end of the connector And the rectifier is sold without the male end? The male end on my r6 burnt up and it seems close to impossible to find the part to fix it. Currently reconstructing the loom myself.
Hello, can you explain why some regulators have 2 positive and 2 ground wires like yours, while some only have 1 positive and 1 ground? i want to replace my regulator with one from a different bike, but my original has 1 positive and ground, while the one i want to use has 2 positives and 2 grounds. can i just wire the both positives to my single positive, and both grounds to my single ground? also, what is the point of the signal wire? why not just feed it directly to the battery, so i can be sure that it will always feed the actual battery voltage?
Do I have to pull the seat?
my wiring is messed up can i put the output of the rectifier to the battery with a 20A fuse without needing a relay? i presume the diode will stop it draining the battery
Thank you. Nice vid! That helped.
Is it possible to do away with the battery for a 76 Yamaha RD 350 two stroke? Friend has one on a sand rail type quad and we're trying to lighten it up by making it kickstart only it has no lights
Bro is it ok to used fullwave rectifier to underbone motorcycle of no adjustment to fullwave stator? Thanks bro.
You are great
Please my friend. Why my regulator rectifier is getting very hot?!
And it doesn't charge the battery too?!!
I have the same issue, my rectifier box gets very hot as well.
Hey guy, a question regarding led turnsignal "hyperflash" 2007 Honda 919 flushmount front led signals and an integrated rear "turn signals built into the rear tail light" there is a relay designed to plug and play? For hyperflash on Hondas. Can you help me out with a manufacturer and part number please? I have contacted Revzilla they can't help and when Google sooo many come up I thought of you as you are the only person who would actually have hands on experience with this kind of thing. Thanks John in Shenandoah valley VA.
Hey my xy 150t keep dieing wen I got it it runs with only a jump it didn't have the in line fuse holder so I just but one in today still won't stay charge do you think I should get a new rectifier or do you think it's something else please inform me ASAP
I have a VTX1800 2006 it runs but sputters when throttle up also how to test my PGM FI Unit
Yes indeed very well explanation.
Great video!
I have a 1998 Honda Shadow Aero 1100....is it the same as this bike...the regulator would be accesible under the seat or by the side?
Can someone post a link to the previous video, where the alternator/ stator was checked, please.
6:08 I think a freight train is about to come through your workshop😉
I have a 2002 Honda Shadow 600 my r&r is bad according to watching your video it has 4 wires to red to Green I have a 2003 Honda Shadow 750 for parts it's r&r seems to be working but it only has one red and one green wire could I use that on my 600
Ultima 120ci. Turns over no spark, has a Ultima 53-645 electronic ignition ,status lite , &voes/rtd lights
Should lights come on when key is on ? None on this
Thanks for the video very helpful my stator wires were feused together repaid and test regulator and stator just like your video good to go now
Andy Trevino Great! Glad this video helped you! 🤙🤙
I don't fully understand.
My bike runs fine. Charges the battery fine. I have a sound system. The amp keeps popping fuses. Everything on the sound system has been redone Multiple times and triple checked. It's not the amp or wiring.
The amp only shuts down the moment I rev the bike. Is it the volt regulator that's blowing my amps? Is it possibly over charging?
can the Regulator Rectifier cause power issues (that's not related to
battery) ? .. for example my bike has dim lights that get brighter as
RPM increase and rough idle problems .. ive "pinned" the stator and
that seems OK and my battery does charge (new battery)
I got melted wires so I’m kinda worried and my 1600 is not keeping charge
Is it about the same repairs on C D I units on a Honda Shadow or No way to repair
hi bro i need an information, i have a rebel 250 2005 but the wires fron the stator to the rectifier are broken and i don´t know how to conect them the three yellow wires the rectifier is the same you show in the video thanks sorry but mi english is not good enougth
Thanks for the vid. Ive got a weird thing going on. When my bike is running and i rev it, the voltage on the battery drops, when I release the throttle it goes up and stays around 12ish. What could be causing this? Thanks again
That’s exactly what is happening to mine. What is the problem in such a case? Thanks!
@@juliomanalo7074 I changed my regulator for a new one, that uses MOSFET instead of diodes, and it's been working good for more than a year.
@@joaopa69 Nice! I just ordered a superkit with shindengen mosfet regulator. Hope this works as good as yours!
@@juliomanalo7074 that's a good replacement, good luck
Thanks, made it so simple. appreciate it. i have no signal (Voltage) when ignition switch is on? wont start. crash starts, but battery goes flat after 30mins of riding.
i guess its somewhere between the ignition switch and the Regulator/Rectifier. but that wire is all loomed up with a thousand other wires? :-(
any ideas?
Check continuity from the ignition signal wire to reg rec! You answered your own question!
Hi, thanks for a very informative episode. My headlight on my sym scooter brightens when i rev, what part of the scooter is the issue?
Tnx
Art
Very informative thanks for sharing 👍
can you explain the concept of grounding?
Alan Zou "Grounding" is referring to anything that involves the negative side of the battery. The frame of the bike and the motor, are all connected to that negative side of the battery. So if a wire has power from the positive and touches any part that is grounded or (connected to) the negative side of the battery (I.E pretty much every hard metal part on the bike that is not rubber mounted) it can produce a short to ground. Because power (voltage) needs a load.
That's the easiest way I can think to put it. Hope that makes sense.
TheMotorcycleMD is that may cause unchanging. Or heating the regulator?!
Hey man is it important the reading at 4000+rpm shows 14-15v so the battery charges? My reading only showed 13,5v at 4000rpm
Much grateful. Probably my bike doesnt charge coz of this
Thanks man!
So what do I do if I don't have voltage at the black wire with the key on?
When I plug my regulator in with the key in my pocket the bikes power turns on. Could it be a short related to the ignition switch?
So are you telling me if I run my atv with the battery unhooked the rec/reg wont put out voltage
? You can’t run the ATV with the battery unhooked.
Question. Could I replace all my charging system from Hyosung with Suzuki. Stator/Rectifier/Coil? I would have to fav up something. I just feel my bike keeps clicking, I charge the battery and, it runs for, a day or, two then nothing.
I have a 2002 yamaha R6, I changed out the stator and put a new battery in. The battery is still being drained while the bike is on. I can't figure it out, do you think the regulator is causing the problem?
Jesse Carlton Have you done tests on the unit? If the stator is new, battery is new and the wiring is good. Then yes, since that's the last component in the charging system.
Yes I have done tests to the battery. Yes it's mid 12s when on and running. I'll see what I can do about replacing the R/R
Jesse Carlton keep me posted!
Will do.
Seriss Cweald check for ohm leakage/parasitic leak. Do you have HIDs or an alarm?
Those 3 ones, connected by the IC, are Thyristors (or SCR), not Transistors !! :)
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thyristor
+Adi Nistor Your right!! Thankfully the majority of viewers only want the testing information! 🙌🙌
I see a mistake in the schema
How do you fix it?
Hey so my green ground wire reading starts at .03 and then ends up .00 is that adaquet and if not how do I fix it?! Thx
I have Yamaha VSTAR 2000 1100cc, My motorcycls is not chargin the battery while tbe bike has done around 70 kms or when it became hot. I have changed the rectifier and the ECU. Anyone that could help me? I have also checkex the stator and it seems to be ok.
Hey. Great vid. My "black" wire from ignition switch reads ~1-2 V lower than my battery is. Is that a possible issue? Iv checked all charging system components and they all check out fine, but my battery is not getting charged.. :
+DAriusss4 I wouldn't see that as a concern. Not big enough to not allow a battery to charge. Check the output of your stator by measuring A/C voltage OUT of the stator on each yellow leg. Unplug the stator connection and start the bike. Red lead on one yellow wire black lead on good ground. Meter set to A/Cvolts. Measure each leg and do the same test with the motor reved above 2,400rpm. Let me know what you get. Crichards750@gmail.com
So Iv finally measured it. Slightly above 2,4k rpm Iv got 16,6 16,7 16,6. I didn't disconnect the stator connection since its a exciter field type... In addition what Iv noticed that while the bike was cold everything checked out fine with charging, I was getting ¬14 V to the battery, but after like 10-20 mins of messing around it, it dropped down to 12.something... I did test the stator after it was warmed up and got the same 16,6 16,7 16,6 readings.
I wish we had a good atv mechanic here in ky
I checked it and everything is fine, but the Charging is high is up to 17.7v What's the reason?
Check your connectors between alternator and regulator/rectifier! Corrosion at the connector contacts can cause these errors...but from far away, it is difficult to point it directly.
Great Video. Layman's terms. Good job.Thanks,Joe.
is that a 3 phase stator?
I am interested in finding out how much actual voltage is being pumped out of the rectifier while the engine is running. So far no luck
just put meter on battery with system off, then start increase rpm slightly and measure again, that id your output to battery. If no change keep trouble shooting.
HELP!!!!!!!!!!! When i turn on the ignition i get one volt less on the black wire (10.5Vac) I have a '85 magna vf500 (v30) everything else with the test comes back WNL. When i rev the bike voltage goes up to +13-14v but when idleing it can drop down to 10v. (its killing my battery)
Hey Cody, I have a question if you don't mind.
I own a Hyosung Aquila GV250 EFI and my stator was fried a couple of weeks back so my mechanic replaced it with a new one, doing a shitty job, as he removed the supplied plugs and welded the three yellow wires from the stator to the yellow ones of the reg/rec , is it important to know the order of the three (1,2,3) or it does not matter?
Anyway, my stator died again, the good news is that it's under warranty what I'm not sure whether to replace it alone or swap the reg/rec as well.
The reg/rec was checked and I'm getting: 578, .578 and .435 is that a problem?
Thanks in advance
no it dont mater they are all the same from the stator
Thanks man
Very good video
My 2009 model aprilia sr50 won't charge my battery, any idea why.
Tq so much for the knowledge
everytime he says "okay?" take a shot or a sip of beer .. you'll NEVER make it to the end of the video "okay?"