I just replaced my ignition coil on a kz440 and it still didn't work. After about 1 week of troubleshooting I saw this video and found out my new ignition coil failed. This video relieved me of a huge headache. Thanks for the troubleshooting guide! 👍🏾👍🏾
Thanks for adding a real world experience. If I had a nickel for every time I've heard someone say "I just replaced the whatever with a new one, so it can't be that causing the problem", I'd be a rich man. Yes, things can be defective straight from the factory.
Thanks man FINALLY someone that gets to the point and just stick to main points of info I'm tryn to find . Omg I can NOT understand how some people can make a 25 min vid of screwing in a lightbulb
Hey don't go throwing away your coil just yet, it could also be a bad HT wire connection with the plug, or the lead with the coil or just a bad wire. You can test this by disconnecting the HT wire and retest where the wire connects to the coil instead of the plug end (or just by pulling around a bit checking for loose connections).
Fyi. This only works for single coil bike. If you have 2 coils. You check the secondary by inserting the leads of the multimeter to the both of the spark plug wires. Hope that make sense.
sometimes the spark plug cap fails - the coil could well be fine - best to unscrew the cap and test that as well or test the HT lead as that can also fail
Gonna try on my quad that went down a week ago or so. Had spark after replacing the ignition switch. After which I simply removed and cleaned my batt. cables and terminals, placed em back on, and did not have spark anymore. A bit worried about throwing loads of money at a diagnosis, so purchased a multi meter today. No experience using one but there are luckily some informative vids on here. Thanks man !
Awesome video. I'm rebuilding a '92 VFR750F that has no spark. I was about to blindly start replacing coils but it turns out I was testing them wrong... I'm sure one or two are bad, but this gives me an excuse to go play with tools again. This helped a lot, thanks!
Thank you! Brief and to the point! Your hands were not in the way, like most of these people trying to make a video. We could see what you were doing and didn't have to listen to a lot of time consuming nonsense! Excellent dude!
thanks for posting this video. I am working on 78 DT400 that is giving me all kinds electrical issues. Ran last Sept. but refuses to fire now, took the spark plug out and held against the engine but no spark. Will now try what you have shown here. Thanks again.
My brother this is 8 years after you posted it and it still helping people out cuz it just helped me at least rule a few things out I've got ohms reading 4.2 from my coil I believe it's the primaries I was checking I go to check the secondary the way you did my meter did not change at all but then again I also tested the volts going to it nothing not sure if it's homes won't go ahead and run through both to check homes and voltage going to it so anything at all either yep just checked no ohms no volts going to it
Do not ignore that most bikes use a resistive spark plug cap. Typically 5k ohms. This probably explains why you had roughly 15k on the secondary, as you measured it in series with the cap. Also to where you said "there's a break in our secondary coil somewhere and we definitely need to replace it" I have to interrupt. That's not true 90% of the time. It's most often a broken cap resistor, which involves a simple and cheap replacement of the S.P. cap. The second most likely thing to happen is corroded HT wires. They corrode where they mate with the screw in the S.P. cap and also at the coil mating surface IF it's not fixed and factory sealed. The rubber boot becomes brittle and allows moisture to enter it, as years go by. The best way to test your coils, is to perform an actual electrodynamic test on it. I know sounds very advanced and fancy to you, who haven't heard about it before, but it's actually very simple. What you do, is you simulate the point's and condenser principal, on your work bench. Figure out the rated voltage of your machine (typically 6V,DC or 12V,DC). Then feed it to the coil and don't forget the capacitor! Just find a capacitor from any machine, that was designed to act as an ignition capacitor. If you don't have it, go find, or very cheaply buy one that isn't polarity sensitive (electrolytic), has a capacity of at least 0.2µf and can withstand 600V. If you aren't familiar with the old points and condenser setup, I will tell you; that it's very easy to simulate and anyone can do it and understand the diagram, which you can find anywhere. Just tap a loose wire, to simulate the opening and closing contacts (breaker point). At each moment you break contact (release the wire), your HT lead(s) should spark, if the coil is any good. Just remember to place them very close to ground. As close as a spark plug gap typically is. Ultimately you will just perform the test with the spark plug(s) connected. Just make sure their metal body touches ground. This definitely also works on machines with electronic ignition, as the coil remains to rely on the same principal 95% of the time, or more. On some self generating systems however (not everyone, depending upon design), it can be impossible to perform the test, due to a variety of design limitations, but this test is good for almost every system, which relies on a battery for sparking. The ohmic test we see in the video, is only solely reliable if you have the particular coil's ohmic specifications on hand. You will also need a name-brand meter, which must include low resistance probes and probe wires. Cheap meters come with wires plus probes, of at least one ohm sometimes, and their accuracy is somewhat questionable too. This becomes an issue at tasks like this exact one - when dealing with low resistance, where a little change in resistance, has relatively dramatic distortion on the test result. Best of Luck, Ragnar W. Eliansson.
GREAT video! My RM370 pops and snaps and won't pull under load, and I saw .5 ohms on the primary side. Double checked my meter and your method on my good running GT550 and it showed 4.5 just like you said. So now I know what the RM needs. Thanks for posting this!!!
You may also use a mega ohm meter , because as a student of MMI Phoenix AZ they taught us that resistance really doesn't mean it's a good reading. But a maga meter will create an open if it is there at all
NIce Work. This is something you can commit to memory. (3-5 or so primary 10-20 grand secondary) and have an fast troubleshooting step that diagnoses a major component/culprit in the no-spark scenario.
I just ran this check on my 2001 750 ACE. My secondary reading was the same as youors. I have spent way rtoo much money trying to figure this out. I will check the wires, then replace the wires or coils. Hopefully, this will fix the problem.
You need to make sure this is how you check your own bike. This is NOT how you check for a 85 Honda shadow! Just make sure you look a your repair manual first. You'll be buying coils you don't need.
Great video. I'm working on a 73 Suzuki RV125 that lost spark. Coils are available, but, extremely expensive. You probably just saved me $125.00. Thanks!
Thanks. Good stuff. I have a GSX1100G with a very annoying misfire. I notice that pots 1 and 4 run cooler, though they still run. I will check the coil serving 1 and 4 to see if I can find anything. Thanks.
+Will Myers : Will, it beat me in the end. Carbs off three times, carbs ultrasound bath-cleaned, both coils changed to the finest I could find, spare ignition controller sourced, spare crank pick-up sourced (USA), and in the end, some (like) 60 hours later, I had to mothball it. There was no point in the end, Will. It just wasn't going to smooth out, and man, what a lovely engine when it was smooth. I gave up and bought the fuel-injected 1400 Suzi. I have not looked back. A word of warning, Will. If you are considering ultrasound, if you can afford it, buy the ultrasound tank yourself and do it yourself. I know it is expensive but it is better than a half-arsed job. The ultrasound contractor sent the carbs back to me with a spacer missing... the wee yellow plastic spacer that stops the carb main jet needle riding up past the spring when the throttle is closed. They just left it out. You could imagine how long it took me to find that error. It did not make any difference in the end. It still did not smooth out. Good old-fashioned don't give a damn though (again).Be careful.
+TroyaE117 cheers gor the reply pal.. well am stumped now was going to put some £££ aside and invest in some dynocoils but now reading this think its time for a new motor.
+Will Myers Will, it just wears you down. When I bought the 1100G it was marvellous... a big smooth beast. Then it came out of storage and it was mis-firing and It just broke my heart in the end. I thought it was gummy fuel. It wasn't. It got so bad I had to abandon the bike in Northern Ireland for close to a year, and I live in Scotland. I suspect Suzuki are noted for it. It isn't the first time I have heard of it. I would sooner have my old smooth-running communist-design MZ 301 two-cycle running fine than a mis-firing 1100G. Also, Over the years I have become wary of CV carbs. You don't need them, Will.. The old slide carbs were more reliable. My Z650 Kawasaki has slide carbs, and the MZ.. I think fuel injection is the way to go. At least there is some measure of diagnostics from the CPU codes. Best, Troya.
Love your vid brother. I've done everything to this motorcycle from carbs, vac lines, plugs, fuel pump, oil/oil filter. The bike starts right up and idles great, it dies upon throttle unless I spray fuel in airbox or carbs, then it will rev normal. Can a bad coil still spark just enough to idle but not rev? Any help appreciated.
I have a ATV no spark. Coil has a positive and negative. Both have constant hot wires when key is on. Doesn't seem right. Should the negative one be grounded? Adopted someone else's nightmare.
Hi there. Nice informative video. Thank you. I did this method on my bike which has electronic ignition. Both coils had about 18 ohms on the primary test but on the second test, both had no movement on the multimeter, it just stayed on 1.... What does this mean???
Really appreciate vid. Put over $300 bucks into my sportsman with upgraded RMSTATOR ignition changed stator/pickup coil voltage regulator used your test and it was the coil. $29 bucks but I got it free because it was still in warranty. If I'd only seen this vid. earlier. Thanks will subscribe.
+OutlandRiderz damn. I'm getting to be in the same boat as you. glad I found this video though before I started throwing money. First I need to get a multimeter >.
i know a good multimeter is necessary (and mandatory) on some levels but i prefer using my fluke automatic multimeter...if i need to technical i just switch to the other probe input on my meter
finally I found somebody to know if they were done thanks man you know what your doing but call you know what you're doing with the video thank you wanted the best instructional videos I've seen tonight
Good video was helpful thanks, I did the tests thought I had a rotten coil but it was the end cap not on properly make sure you check that first or you could be throwing away a good coil
Thanks, man 👌🏼 I finally found the damn problem, that I've been trying to solve for a couple years, now. One of my spark wires was badly worn, not even touching the coil anymore. Cheers man👍🏼
you need to test the pick up modules that operate off the crank shaft inside the engine. . i have found this is usually gone. they also trigger the fuel pump. go get a 4 psi fuel pump from your speed shop . honda fuel pump no longer available. by pass all that wiring and put your new p u coils in. its tricky
this helped me out a lot. thank you. I tried this and it confirms I have a bad coil. I'm confused at the moment because the bike starts, can the bike still start if the coil is bad? one of my mufflers gets hot and one stays cool to the touch so I was assuming the bad coil isn't firing up on the cool muffler. any info is greatly appreciated. thank you in advance.
So the bike don’t have to be running to test this ? Just turn the key on ? I’m dealing with my rear cylinder losing spark on my 96 Honda shadow 1100ace
Would it be unwise to swap out spark plug wire before spending on a new coil? Just sayin, is it not impossible that they go bad as well, or would a good coil pass this test regardless of the plug wire?
great video! helped a lot, thanks. if your testing it on a smaller bike with no battery do you need to kick it with the probes in or will a number come up anyway?? thanks
What about a non-polarity Dynatek coil? I get 4.5-5.0 primary test, and 1. using the high tensile lead test, on both! But the bike runs on both cylinders! What am I doing wrong?
I guess my multimeter is not the same. Works as you show for primary - My CB360 coils both 4.7. But secondary direct to plug wire the meter at 20K stays at "1". My bike has spark so it should show 14 omhs. The meter is to crappy.
I have a 99 gz250. it does have an orange colored looking wire and the white are they both hot wires I believe the orange wire tested 10 to 11 volts and when I hit the kill switch it went to zero so I assumed that that's how they kill switch grounds the coil but what is the white wire for I'm just curious I will do the test though that you showed on the video. Thanks.
when trying to start my bike there is a spark at the beginning of pressing the electric starter and when i let it go, but not in between - do you think it could also be a bad coil? thank you for your video!
I'm getting the 3.6 for the first test. For the second test nothing. I get 11.1 between the 2 ht leads. Does this indicate my secondary is shot? Thanks
I have a motoplat electronic ignition coil for a 70's dirt bike and the primary measurement is 33.1 ohms. The secondary is open (too high), so I suspect that there is a problem with the plugs/wiring. However, is 33.1 ohms too high and an indication that the primary coil is faulty?
Can the secondary coil be bad only on one side or would I have an electrical wiring issue. I have the 3.1 Holms but still no spark for cylinder 4 on a 1991 gsxr 750. Number 1 cylinder is getting spark and they share a coil
Hey I have a question, My bike manual says that the ohms should be between .18 to .26 does that mean a reading of .5 is wrong and the stator is messed? Also my ohms meter, tells me data in 00.0 form so a (.5) is over the (.18) ? please help. BIKE: 2007 yamaha r6.
I go 3.6 ohms for the pigtail test. Then got nothing for any of the 4 secondary sides. Does this mean I replace the whole unit or just the secondary side for all 4? I don't get how all 4 would go out at the same time? Any help is appreciated.
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoXYzQ61tRM/mqdefault.jpg)
excellent and to the point. Watched 6 other videos that took 10 -15 minutes to explain and it was still unclear. 10 STARS!!!!
I just replaced my ignition coil on a kz440 and it still didn't work. After about 1 week of troubleshooting I saw this video and found out my new ignition coil failed. This video relieved me of a huge headache. Thanks for the troubleshooting guide! 👍🏾👍🏾
Amirali Mohamed I have a 79 Kz400 I'm working on 👌
Thanks for adding a real world experience. If I had a nickel for every time I've heard someone say "I just replaced the whatever with a new one, so it can't be that causing the problem", I'd be a rich man. Yes, things can be defective straight from the factory.
An excellent video from a true expert. Thanks for making this quick, to the point and informative.
Thanks man FINALLY someone that gets to the point and just stick to main points of info I'm tryn to find . Omg I can NOT understand how some people can make a 25 min vid of screwing in a lightbulb
😂🤣
Hey don't go throwing away your coil just yet, it could also be a bad HT wire connection with the plug, or the lead with the coil or just a bad wire. You can test this by disconnecting the HT wire and retest where the wire connects to the coil instead of the plug end (or just by pulling around a bit checking for loose connections).
Thank you .. nice to have someone talk English and don't rattle on about a load of crap that makes no sense or got nothing to do with the subject
Fyi. This only works for single coil bike. If you have 2 coils. You check the secondary by inserting the leads of the multimeter to the both of the spark plug wires. Hope that make sense.
Please ..can you be more specific. I fdnt follow you.
Thank you, I followed that and was able to verify my Lucas 6v Coils in as long as it took you to so clearly demonstrate the process.
sometimes the spark plug cap fails - the coil could well be fine - best to unscrew the cap and test that as well or test the HT lead as that can also fail
This was great! Short, simple and to the point! Thanks for putting this out. This will help as I restore my 1980 CB750 on my channel!
I was lucky, this was my first vid. It's all I needed. Thank you from Western Australia.
Gonna try on my quad that went down a week ago or so. Had spark after replacing the ignition switch. After which I simply removed and cleaned my batt. cables and terminals, placed em back on, and did not have spark anymore. A bit worried about throwing loads of money at a diagnosis, so purchased a multi meter today. No experience using one but there are luckily some informative vids on here. Thanks man !
Awesome video. I'm rebuilding a '92 VFR750F that has no spark. I was about to blindly start replacing coils but it turns out I was testing them wrong... I'm sure one or two are bad, but this gives me an excuse to go play with tools again. This helped a lot, thanks!
Thank you! Brief and to the point! Your hands were not in the way, like most of these people trying to make a video. We could see what you were doing and didn't have to listen to a lot of time consuming nonsense! Excellent dude!
thanks for posting this video. I am working on 78 DT400 that is giving me all kinds electrical issues. Ran last Sept. but refuses to fire now, took the spark plug out and held against the engine but no spark. Will now try what you have shown here. Thanks again.
Short and straight to the point, beautiful vid
My brother this is 8 years after you posted it and it still helping people out cuz it just helped me at least rule a few things out I've got ohms reading 4.2 from my coil I believe it's the primaries I was checking I go to check the secondary the way you did my meter did not change at all but then again I also tested the volts going to it nothing not sure if it's homes won't go ahead and run through both to check homes and voltage going to it so anything at all either yep just checked no ohms no volts going to it
Do not ignore that most bikes use a resistive spark plug cap. Typically 5k ohms. This probably explains why you had roughly 15k on the secondary, as you measured it in series with the cap.
Also to where you said "there's a break in our secondary coil somewhere and we definitely need to replace it" I have to interrupt. That's not true 90% of the time. It's most often a broken cap resistor, which involves a simple and cheap replacement of the S.P. cap. The second most likely thing to happen is corroded HT wires. They corrode where they mate with the screw in the S.P. cap and also at the coil mating surface IF it's not fixed and factory sealed. The rubber boot becomes brittle and allows moisture to enter it, as years go by.
The best way to test your coils, is to perform an actual electrodynamic test on it. I know sounds very advanced and fancy to you, who haven't heard about it before, but it's actually very simple. What you do, is you simulate the point's and condenser principal, on your work bench. Figure out the rated voltage of your machine (typically 6V,DC or 12V,DC). Then feed it to the coil and don't forget the capacitor! Just find a capacitor from any machine, that was designed to act as an ignition capacitor. If you don't have it, go find, or very cheaply buy one that isn't polarity sensitive (electrolytic), has a capacity of at least 0.2µf and can withstand 600V.
If you aren't familiar with the old points and condenser setup, I will tell you; that it's very easy to simulate and anyone can do it and understand the diagram, which you can find anywhere. Just tap a loose wire, to simulate the opening and closing contacts (breaker point). At each moment you break contact (release the wire), your HT lead(s) should spark, if the coil is any good. Just remember to place them very close to ground. As close as a spark plug gap typically is. Ultimately you will just perform the test with the spark plug(s) connected. Just make sure their metal body touches ground. This definitely also works on machines with electronic ignition, as the coil remains to rely on the same principal 95% of the time, or more.
On some self generating systems however (not everyone, depending upon design), it can be impossible to perform the test, due to a variety of design limitations, but this test is good for almost every system, which relies on a battery for sparking.
The ohmic test we see in the video, is only solely reliable if you have the particular coil's ohmic specifications on hand. You will also need a name-brand meter, which must include low resistance probes and probe wires. Cheap meters come with wires plus probes, of at least one ohm sometimes, and their accuracy is somewhat questionable too. This becomes an issue at tasks like this exact one - when dealing with low resistance, where a little change in resistance, has relatively dramatic distortion on the test result.
Best of Luck, Ragnar W. Eliansson.
Jerkwaad make a video about what you're saying
Ugh. Please DONT make a video.
GREAT video! My RM370 pops and snaps and won't pull under load, and I saw .5 ohms on the primary side. Double checked my meter and your method on my good running GT550 and it showed 4.5 just like you said. So now I know what the RM needs. Thanks for posting this!!!
Simple but well shown I'm off to check mine as I have all the symptoms of a bad coil. Thanks
You may also use a mega ohm meter , because as a student of MMI Phoenix AZ they taught us that resistance really doesn't mean it's a good reading. But a maga meter will create an open if it is there at all
NIce Work. This is something you can commit to memory. (3-5 or so primary 10-20 grand secondary) and have an fast troubleshooting step that diagnoses a major component/culprit in the no-spark scenario.
It's ppl like you that make the world turn. Thx bud.
Seeing what a non working coil reads compared to a fully functioning one is very helpful, will be checking my own bike for the same problem.
Cgreat video. Please put up more, you have a great explanation of the problem I’m having
I would recommend testing the secondary value directly from the coil tower rather than the plug wire connection. I had a failed plug wire connector.
It could have been the line between the coil and the spark plug cap.
Thanks for the video and i agree with you final comment. Trying to get my 84 125 RM running. You get my Thumbs up 8)
I just ran this check on my 2001 750 ACE. My secondary reading was the same as youors. I have spent way rtoo much money trying to figure this out. I will check the wires, then replace the wires or coils. Hopefully, this will fix the problem.
You need to make sure this is how you check your own bike. This is NOT how you check for a 85 Honda shadow! Just make sure you look a your repair manual first. You'll be buying coils you don't need.
Thanks for the video. Confirmed what I was reading on my coil. Strange coincidence that I am working on the same model CL360!
ha ha, I own a CB360, but I needed to know this stuff for a 6v single coil 1958 Triumph
Awesome video! Searched through about 20 videos for what I thought would be a simple answer to find before I found this, finally!
To make it even more shorter, if you check resistances and get reading, your coil is OK. If you get reading "OL", your coil is dead.
Great video, i have a Cagiva WMX 500 no spark and wanted to check coil to not just parts change because they are impossible to find!
Thanks , best vid yet on coils , nice back ground music !
Great video. I'm working on a 73 Suzuki RV125 that lost spark. Coils are available, but, extremely expensive. You probably just saved me $125.00.
Thanks!
Very well explained for newer bike owners thank you
great clean explanation with no added BS
thanks for this one. saved me a ton of hassle
Outstanding video. Awesome background music.
nice short price and to the point - you are the man !! nice work.
Best video out there super detailed and quick. Thank you
Thanks. Good stuff. I have a GSX1100G with a very annoying misfire. I notice that pots 1 and 4 run cooler, though they still run. I will check the coil serving 1 and 4 to see if I can find anything. Thanks.
too the nail .....exact same problem.. in a very simler engine as yours, did you ever fix the problem ....know its a long shot but worth a try
+Will Myers : Will, it beat me in the end. Carbs off three times, carbs ultrasound bath-cleaned, both coils changed to the finest I could find, spare ignition controller sourced, spare crank pick-up sourced (USA), and in the end, some (like) 60 hours later, I had to mothball it. There was no point in the end, Will. It just wasn't going to smooth out, and man, what a lovely engine when it was smooth. I gave up and bought the fuel-injected 1400 Suzi. I have not looked back. A word of warning, Will. If you are considering ultrasound, if you can afford it, buy the ultrasound tank yourself and do it yourself. I know it is expensive but it is better than a half-arsed job. The ultrasound contractor sent the carbs back to me with a spacer missing... the wee yellow plastic spacer that stops the carb main jet needle riding up past the spring when the throttle is closed. They just left it out. You could imagine how long it took me to find that error. It did not make any difference in the end. It still did not smooth out. Good old-fashioned don't give a damn though (again).Be careful.
+TroyaE117 cheers gor the reply pal.. well am stumped now was going to put some £££ aside and invest in some dynocoils but now reading this think its time for a new motor.
+Will Myers Will, it just wears you down. When I bought the 1100G it was marvellous... a big smooth beast. Then it came out of storage and it was mis-firing and It just broke my heart in the end. I thought it was gummy fuel. It wasn't. It got so bad I had to abandon the bike in Northern Ireland for close to a year, and I live in Scotland. I suspect Suzuki are noted for it. It isn't the first time I have heard of it. I would sooner have my old smooth-running communist-design MZ 301 two-cycle running fine than a mis-firing 1100G. Also, Over the years I have become wary of CV carbs. You don't need them, Will.. The old slide carbs were more reliable. My Z650 Kawasaki has slide carbs, and the MZ.. I think fuel injection is the way to go. At least there is some measure of diagnostics from the CPU codes. Best, Troya.
Great work, thanks. Not the coil, but led me to test the plug wires.....
Love your vid brother. I've done everything to this motorcycle from carbs, vac lines, plugs, fuel pump, oil/oil filter. The bike starts right up and idles great, it dies upon throttle unless I spray fuel in airbox or carbs, then it will rev normal. Can a bad coil still spark just enough to idle but not rev? Any help appreciated.
I have a ATV no spark. Coil has a positive and negative. Both have constant hot wires when key is on. Doesn't seem right. Should the negative one be grounded? Adopted someone else's nightmare.
Hi there. Nice informative video. Thank you. I did this method on my bike which has electronic ignition. Both coils had about 18 ohms on the primary test but on the second test, both had no movement on the multimeter, it just stayed on 1.... What does this mean???
Really appreciate vid. Put over $300 bucks into my sportsman with upgraded RMSTATOR ignition changed stator/pickup coil voltage regulator used your test and it was the coil. $29 bucks but I got it free because it was still in warranty. If I'd only seen this vid. earlier. Thanks will subscribe.
+OutlandRiderz damn. I'm getting to be in the same boat as you. glad I found this video though before I started throwing money. First I need to get a multimeter >.
i know a good multimeter is necessary (and mandatory) on some levels but i prefer using my fluke automatic multimeter...if i need to technical i just switch to the other probe input on my meter
finally I found somebody to know if they were done thanks man you know what your doing but call you know what you're doing with the video thank you wanted the best instructional videos I've seen tonight
awesome to the point , showed multi meter settings great vid
Good video was helpful thanks, I did the tests thought I had a rotten coil but it was the end cap not on properly make sure you check that first or you could be throwing away a good coil
Thanks, man 👌🏼 I finally found the damn problem, that I've been trying to solve for a couple years, now. One of my spark wires was badly worn, not even touching the coil anymore. Cheers man👍🏼
you need to test the pick up modules that operate off the crank shaft inside the engine. . i have found this is usually gone. they also trigger the fuel pump. go get a 4 psi fuel pump from your speed shop . honda fuel pump no longer available. by pass all that wiring and put your new p u coils in. its tricky
Can you do a video on how to test a CDI box??
Can a coil work sometimes and then not sometimes
wow you nailed it right quick! well done! some just guess, you made it easy! thanks!
Thanks Man !!! I just checked it on My ct 90 the coil is good ! I think it is the condenser .
Keep up the great vids !
Is there supposed to be continuity between the two leads?
great video for testing single coil. What about testing a duel coil?
Well done! about the fourth or fifth vid I've watch professing to show this. First one with all the details. THANKS!!!
this helped me out a lot. thank you. I tried this and it confirms I have a bad coil. I'm confused at the moment because the bike starts, can the bike still start if the coil is bad? one of my mufflers gets hot and one stays cool to the touch so I was assuming the bad coil isn't firing up on the cool muffler. any info is greatly appreciated. thank you in advance.
My ignition coil is fine but I still have no spark, any idea what the problem could be?
So the bike don’t have to be running to test this ? Just turn the key on ? I’m dealing with my rear cylinder losing spark on my 96 Honda shadow 1100ace
Would it be unwise to swap out spark plug wire before spending on a new coil? Just sayin, is it not impossible that they go bad as well, or would a good coil pass this test regardless of the plug wire?
great video! helped a lot, thanks. if your testing it on a smaller bike with no battery do you need to kick it with the probes in or will a number come up anyway??
thanks
Thank you sir , will check my coils on the cb360 cause I have no spark on either side.
Thanks! Pretty sure the one in my bike has gone bad based on this, I've got no continuity at all from the cap to either of the coil leads.
ECM controlled coils have a 4 wire plug. Would you know about voltages or resistance on which pin to check ?
Excellent video...professional made...just to the point. Big tks.
The only problem I can't see where you connected the other lead , off the camera shot ?
My pig tail only has 1 wire going into the coil. What do I do. ? Thanks
I've Replacement my stater my ignition coil and the CDI box and still have no spark?
What about a non-polarity Dynatek coil? I get 4.5-5.0 primary test, and 1. using the high tensile lead test, on both! But the bike runs on both cylinders! What am I doing wrong?
I did this with a old needle ohm meter. Just looking for an open circuit and voala ... Secondary had no bounce at all... Thanks!
how many ACV. will the coil need to make the spark plug to spark or have a spark???
perfect quick video. 1991 z50r problem solve
Is that a twin lead coil you were testing?
I guess my multimeter is not the same. Works as you show for primary - My CB360 coils both 4.7. But secondary direct to plug wire the meter at 20K stays at "1". My bike has spark so it should show 14 omhs. The meter is to crappy.
Great info. Another good test added to the toolbox....
Is the secondary coil just like the spark plug boot?
I have a 99 gz250. it does have an orange colored looking wire and the white are they both hot wires I believe the orange wire tested 10 to 11 volts and when I hit the kill switch it went to zero so I assumed that that's how they kill switch grounds the coil but what is the white wire for I'm just curious I will do the test though that you showed on the video. Thanks.
when trying to start my bike there is a spark at the beginning of pressing the electric starter and when i let it go, but not in between - do you think it could also be a bad coil? thank you for your video!
I'm getting the 3.6 for the first test. For the second test nothing. I get 11.1 between the 2 ht leads. Does this indicate my secondary is shot? Thanks
My ignition coil earth wire melts when I try to turn over from electric start ... If I kick start it's fine .. do I replace full coil or just HT lead
I have a motoplat electronic ignition coil for a 70's dirt bike and the primary measurement is 33.1 ohms. The secondary is open (too high), so I suspect that there is a problem with the plugs/wiring. However, is 33.1 ohms too high and an indication that the primary coil is faulty?
Will a weak coil cause my burgman 400 to miss when idling about 1500-2000 rpm?
thanks for your time .thats really good things to get my life and experience thanx
hi...is there a way to test resistor in plug boot that may be bad..or rust in contacks in boot...thanks ...Rick
Good video 👍 now I know how to test my coil
Can the secondary coil be bad only on one side or would I have an electrical wiring issue. I have the 3.1 Holms but still no spark for cylinder 4 on a 1991 gsxr 750. Number 1 cylinder is getting spark and they share a coil
great video. thanks!
Great video very helpful and easy to follow
Is the ignition on?
Great Vid & Backing Music !!!
Hey I have a question, My bike manual says that the ohms should be between .18 to .26 does that mean a reading of .5 is wrong and the stator is messed? Also my ohms meter, tells me data in 00.0 form so a (.5) is over the (.18) ? please help. BIKE: 2007 yamaha r6.
Hi having a no spark issue, coil reads low.voltage during cranking at 130 should be 200, what could cause this?
When your checking the coils, do you have the ignition on of off
off
Does the battery need to be connected to run this test??
Thank you for explaining the process, this helped me a lot.
I go 3.6 ohms for the pigtail test. Then got nothing for any of the 4 secondary sides. Does this mean I replace the whole unit or just the secondary side for all 4? I don't get how all 4 would go out at the same time? Any help is appreciated.