you`re getting mixed up ....you`re calling the voltage regulator/rectifier the stator....be careful because some newbies are watching and digesting everything that you say....slow down and think what you`re saying.....
Diodes only allow current to flow in one direction, just like a check valve only allows water to flow in one direction. That is why you are getting different readings. Without having a schematic of the rectifier you can't test it properly. THIS IS NOT A CONCLUSIVE TEST OF A RECTIFIER. If you're stator is kicking out the appropriate AC voltage -- and your battery is not receiving 13-14 VDC then replace the rectifier. Other than the wiring (which usually doesn't go bad) the rectifier is the only thing in the system.
Jason C my honda CBR 150r having a problem...when i put a headligth Socket the BATTeRy isnot working fine its voltage dropping..when i disconnect the head light Socket the BATTeRy is working good.. note i replaced a new battery
I dont get why he was testing the rectifier regulator. Then he said that means his stator is going bad? Shouldnt he be testing the stator not rectifier if the stator is going bad
If you have trouble holding the plug and the meter and the probe, you can push the static probe up the back of the connector plug (where the cable goes). Makes it a lot easier to then just use the other probe for contacting.
If I may this is a little misleading. I am not very good at explaining things but I'll try. The arrow with the line ( Diode test) You are checking for a bad diode used in DC . Diodes let voltage travel in one direction. Your meter is supplying voltage when it is testing diodes. Diodes are needed when switching AC to DC. The stator ( yellow wires) are AC .That is the voltage coming out of the engine. It needs to be converted into DC so it can charge the DC battery. If you put your test leads on a diode you would see voltage. reversing the test leads you should not see voltage . The first thing I check on charging systems is the stator (yellow wires) Unplug the regulator engine off .Put the test meter on the ohms .One lead on ground and the other to one of the yellow wires. Check both wires .it should read 0 .If not then the stator is shorted to ground and needs to be replaced. Note before checking charging sys.always make sure your battery is charged and battery connections are clean. I hope this helps you.
Beau Gant Hi. Mine is not giving 0 neither of the three wires on omhns mode(200). I tested one needle at the yellow plug from the stator and the other to the motor case(ground). As result I have 3.0, 2.6 and 2.6. The bike (Fym 250cc) has no sparks on both cylinders. It is wrong huh? Stator shorted to the ground is no good right? Tks
Hi. at the moment i am experiencing charging problems. The manual states that if each phase puts out enough voltage than it is the rectifier. But when testing ohms between phases ( coils) there is resistance between coils, but when checking it to the body and battery negative is has resistance ( conductivity) too. So I believe that it is shorting and not charging. Your opinion please.
Thank you! Trying to figure if my stator is bad . I have already changed my rectifier. System is not charging. So, Unplug regulator/ rectifier with the engine off one lead on ground ( would that be the black wire/negative from the voltmeter? ) then the red/positive from voltmeter to the yellow from regulator/rectifier check both yellow wires this way? Should read 0 0hms ? Then my other question would be why wouldn't you do this with the engine running.? Looks like the engine would have to be running for the stator to be supplying charge? Thanks much , chuck
At 4:54 in the video you got .000 on your meter not OL (open lead). That also shows a failed diode. You had one in the second test set and one in the last set. Good video just remember .OL on your meter means Open Lead (nothing detected) and .000 means no resistance or in this case a short.
4:50 it not reading zero-zero-zero... in fact it was reading OL (overload), OL (overload), zero. And that last one is the problematic diode (out of the six that are in the rectifier)
hes also teaching everyone the very wrong way. the whole point of the diode is to only let current flow in one direction. the current flow starts with the positive lead on the multimeter.
Dude thank you so much. Suzuki charges an arm and a leg just to look at it. I’ve had this problem for four or five years. Call me cheap but I wasn’t willing to pay what they wanted just to diagnose the problem. I’ve been thinking it was a fuel problem this whole time. No dang wonder I couldn’t find the problem. You the man.
You "go in reverse and do it twice", cause this way, you actually test a "whole" single time: There´s 6 diodes, and in the first run, you checked only the first 3 of them, and the 3rd diode was burnt. In the 2nd run, you tested the remaining 3 diodes, which were all 3 OK. So, you tested 6 times, cause you have 6 diodes, and the 3rd one was burnt. If you dont "go in reverse and do it twice", then you would have tested only half of the rectifier, totally ignoring the 2nd half of the existing cyrcuit, which can also contain failures. Like checking only your right-car-side-doors, in order to find out if ALL your car-doors are locked. Of course, you have to go around, and check also the left-car-side-doors.
HELP.. mine different- 3 wires in a 4 pin connector- they blk-red-green.... then i got 2 seperate bullet connection wires.. pink and other is yellow.. any ideas.. ? mine 1982 honda cb 125s..
You can test the rectifier diode, how about the regulator? You can not check the transistor if it is working or not,the best testing is to start your motorcycle and check the output voltage of the regulator..
I replaced this when it went bad and was frying my battery. It also fried my ignition switch. I replaced this and I replaced the ignition switch now the bike turns over but won't start. Can anyone help? I'm hearing it could be the igniter module but they're scarce and pricey.
My bike stalls when the signal is on and braking and i saw someone having the same problem changed the R/R to one from a kawasaki ninja and all the problems went away Ty for this
Solid video. Appreciate when people go into actually explaining the function of each component, rather than just showing the steps without explanation. helps me internalize and learn a lot more effectively. Thanks man!
Just having a charging issue on a Norton 1973 850 commando with a 3 stage regulator. Battery was giving me mixed signals, thought it may be an issue with a Motobatt Agm battery. Still may? However with your video, I just brought the new replacement regulator inside to check and it tested perfect, just as you instructed. Thanks so much!!!! I will pull the old one in soon and check it out per your video. At least I'll know more than I know now, and have narrowed down the odds. Bets are on the 20 year old Regulator!!!!! Just waiting to start bike up and see 14V and higher when throttle is opened, instead of 12.9 and 13V. Stator is good!!!! Robert TN
Ehm, the "OL" stands for "overload" and definitely not for zero 🙂 but indeed, the test has shown, that one of the diodes in the R/R is dead - meaning, a new R/R unit is required to be able to properly charge the bike.
On my bike, the (black) plug that connects the reg/rec to the stator is starting to melt. The output is also too high, measured at the battery. 18 volts. I replaced the reg/rec 3 months ago and now it appears to be broken again. Does anyone know what may be causing this? There are no special features on the bike except that the blinkers and the headlight are LED units. One of the blinkers has some water in it but still works. And I have heated grips from oxford, and on the control unit, one of the lights isn't working anymore (it shows the setting, 20%,30%,50%,80%,100% or something like that).
Finally got to remove and test the regulator/rectifier today. Found it to be toast! There was only current flow one way.Through the ground. Not good... Will be ordering a new one asap! Thanks again. RC
reg can send a uncontrolled volt and kill the cdi. most time the reg just dies and doesn't charge. good video the Sv650 is a major problem with the bike
+PistnRods you should do a video on head bearings..I just done it and it was a major pain. a video would have been awesome...just watch the sv650 die so hope u get that sorted
thanks for the vid but when you said you didn't know much about electrical stuff, you weren't bullshitting....the arrow looking thingy.. yup thats a diode symbol.
When I tested the positive all came out “OL” which is good but when testing the negative three came came out at “0.5” one came out at “0.9” and the last one came out at “1.6” Does this mean my rectifier is bad?
Great video! Hope you can help on this issue: A few days ago, while riding my SYM VS 125, a lot of smoke started coming out of the front of the bike and the engine started to fail. I turned off the ignition and cut the battery current. At home I took it apart to see what was going on and the rectifier was visibly burnt. I took the bike to a workshop where they changed the rectifier and the battery, but they didn't solve the problem. The new rectifier continues to heat up a lot and too fast, as if something is short circuiting. As they couldn't solve the problem and it still cost me a few €€, I picked up the motorcycle with the fault. Tests i have done: - the battery is new and has 13.1V before the starter - with the three yellow wires from the stator connected to the rectifier, the bike works fine at low revs, fails at medium and the rectifier heats up uncontrollably; with these wires disconnected from the rectifier, the bike works well at any speed, but as we know, the battery is not charged - at idle the 3 yellow wires measure about 40V from stator - the resistant test on stator show equal values on three wires; no ground conductivity; no open circuit on each coil - apparently all the masses are well connected. Any idea what it could be causing this recurrent failure of the rectifier? Note: traditional G6Y carburetor engine with electronic rectifier and CDI, year 2010.
My SV650 doesn't get used much and the last couple of times i went to use it the battery was too low to start. I'll have to test my regulator rectifier to see if it needs replacing or if the battery is playing up.
hey I have a problem with my honda steed vlx 400 model 1994 , suddenly my regulator rectifier died , I bought a new regulator made in Taiwan , I put it in my motorcycle all is good , one moth latter or two months my new regulator is died , I bought a new Taiwan regulator 1 week same of that one and is died again and every regulator I put in my motorcycle a little of time and is died and burn and trash and I dont know what I should do I pay above the 200$ of regulatores I want any help please , thank you thank you very much , and I am an aircraft maintenance student I want to start with any test , stator or rotor or battery or if there any short in my circuit or if the new regulator is made in Taiwan and the motorcycle is japan please any help thank you.
Ok, here's a project for you to figure out because I don't understand this problem at all. I have a 05 trx350fm Honda Rancher 4x4. So here's the problem, the atv had been setting outside for at least 4 yrs. so I got it and cleaned it up and replace a lot of things on it, but when I rebuilt the starter and put it in the 4 wheeler, well when I try to crank it I can here the starter but it's not turning the motor over. So I took it back off and put my finger in the starter hole and could fell a gear. The gear will turn clock wise easily (clockwise looking at it from the back of the motor). So I took a digital caliper and mic the distance from the gear to where the starter would be if mounted, I also mic the length of the starter gear and the starter gear is plenty long enough to reach the gear inside of the motor. So I'm at a point to where I have no idea what to do. I would certainly appreciate any bodies help with this. Thanks.
sucks that nobody does one on internal regulator and rectifier.. my bike has internal as one until, meaning it actually has a alternator.. I have drops from 10 v at startup down to 3v after a few second and don't know if it's the rectifier not sending proper voltage or if it's the regulator not changing volts properly and causing undercharge and causing my wires to melt in the plug, which BTW is a two wire plug (keyed and constant/charge)
If I do the battery terminal test running/non-running and the voltage jumps to where it is supposed to while running, do i still need to do this diode test? or is it safe to assume all three connector pins are good?
my main fuse to scooter is fine when i turn ignition key to on position i have no instrument panel ligts horn gasguage nothing can u tell me what component i have blown
Good clear instructions in this vid, thanks. I'm testing the R/R on a VFR 800-5 after a major loom meltdown... I get ~0.365 reading on each diode, but three 1's the other way around. Might this be what's popping the main fuse every time I turn the ignition on?
+Draycos the 1.0 is normal, sometimes that's how multimeters show infinite resistance. The .365 could be low though. A way to look would be in the manual, the voltage ranges are usually in there. If you don't have one try searching for a pdf version online. A weak R/R wouldn't pop a fuse though. Something is shorted from the meltdown. You may have to trace the wires down. :(
Very helpful! So, the bad diode would indicate an issue with the stator, not the regulator/rectifier? Is there another method to confirm it's the stator and not only the regulator/rectifier? thanks in advance,
The stator generates AC current, the diode is used to make it DC, which is the task of the rectifier. So that means the diode is in the rectifier. To prove it, look at what he measures; the rectifier without any connection to the stator/magneto. When he uses a given polarity order of red/black of the multimeter, it measures normally everywhere around 0.5Ohms, but when he switches it to black/red, then for normal working, the rectifier should prevent the AC, so there has to be OL shown for all measurements, but it only happens for 2 out of the 3, as for the 3rd it shows 0 Ohm, which means that the diode is not converting the AC to DC of one of the phases coming from the stator -> leads to dead battery.
You see that "symbol"... See how it points in one direction? That's because diodes are used to create a forward bias. it will only flow pos to neg, not neg to pos. Before you give advice you might wanna know what you're talking about. (I have a degree in electrical engineering, just trying to help.)
Got a 2001 Honda Shadow 750 ACE, with the same issues. Runs fine when started, and doesn't stall or show signs of dimming lights. Although after a few starts the battery wears down. Regulator Recitfier is a SH633-12. Reading results of the old Rectifier are [Neg Wire] (Pos Post) = 5,0,0 [Pos Wire] (Neg Post) = 0,0,0 [Pos Wire] (Pos Post) = 5,0,0 [Neg Wire] (Neg Post) = 493,509,507. Getting the new replacement today, and will post it's results.
PistnRods Just got the new Regulator Rectifier, Reading Results are, [Neg Wire] (Pos Post) = 0,0,0 [Pos Wire] (Neg Post) = 0,0,0 [Pos Wire] (Pos Post) = 444,443,427 [Neg Wire] (Neg Post) = 452,460,459. So yeah, that old one was really gone. Thanks for the help bro!
you`re getting mixed up ....you`re calling the voltage regulator/rectifier the stator....be careful because some newbies are watching and digesting everything that you say....slow down and think what you`re saying.....
Diodes only allow current to flow in one direction, just like a check valve only allows water to flow in one direction. That is why you are getting different readings. Without having a schematic of the rectifier you can't test it properly. THIS IS NOT A CONCLUSIVE TEST OF A RECTIFIER. If you're stator is kicking out the appropriate AC voltage -- and your battery is not receiving 13-14 VDC then replace the rectifier. Other than the wiring (which usually doesn't go bad) the rectifier is the only thing in the system.
Only zenior diode
Jason C my honda CBR 150r having a problem...when i put a headligth Socket the BATTeRy isnot working fine its voltage dropping..when i disconnect the head light Socket the BATTeRy is working good.. note i replaced a new battery
I dont get why he was testing the rectifier regulator. Then he said that means his stator is going bad? Shouldnt he be testing the stator not rectifier if the stator is going bad
Thanks
7 years later and still helpful. Thanks very much.
If you have trouble holding the plug and the meter and the probe, you can push the static probe up the back of the connector plug (where the cable goes). Makes it a lot easier to then just use the other probe for contacting.
If I may this is a little misleading. I am not very good at explaining things but I'll try. The arrow with the line ( Diode test) You are checking for a bad diode used in DC . Diodes let voltage travel in one direction. Your meter is supplying voltage when it is testing diodes. Diodes are needed when switching AC to DC. The stator ( yellow wires) are AC .That is the voltage coming out of the engine. It needs to be converted into DC so it can charge the DC battery. If you put your test leads on a diode you would see voltage. reversing the test leads you should not see voltage . The first thing I check on charging systems is the stator (yellow wires) Unplug the regulator engine off .Put the test meter on the ohms .One lead on ground and the other to one of the yellow wires. Check both wires .it should read 0 .If not then the stator is shorted to ground and needs to be replaced. Note before checking charging sys.always make sure your battery is charged and battery connections are clean. I hope this helps you.
Beau Gant Hi. Mine is not giving 0 neither of the three wires on omhns mode(200). I tested one needle at the yellow plug from the stator and the other to the motor case(ground). As result I have 3.0, 2.6 and 2.6. The bike (Fym 250cc) has no sparks on both cylinders. It is wrong huh? Stator shorted to the ground is no good right? Tks
Hi. at the moment i am experiencing charging problems. The manual states that if each phase puts out enough voltage than it is the rectifier. But when testing ohms between phases ( coils) there is resistance between coils, but when checking it to the body and battery negative is has resistance ( conductivity) too. So I believe that it is shorting and not charging. Your opinion please.
Thank you! Trying to figure if my stator is bad . I have already changed my rectifier. System is not charging. So, Unplug regulator/ rectifier with the engine off one lead on ground ( would that be the black wire/negative from the voltmeter? ) then the red/positive from voltmeter to the yellow from regulator/rectifier check both yellow wires this way? Should read 0 0hms ? Then my other question would be why wouldn't you do this with the engine running.? Looks like the engine would have to be running for the stator to be supplying charge?
Thanks much , chuck
so what was you conclusion with his regulator
Wow!! i see a lot of people who already know how to do it are watching this video, what for? Just to criticise?
At 4:54 in the video you got .000 on your meter not OL (open lead). That also shows a failed diode. You had one in the second test set and one in the last set. Good video just remember .OL on your meter means Open Lead (nothing detected) and .000 means no resistance or in this case a short.
+Shawn Kopp yup I had 1 failed. Wouldn't have known unless I reversed the testing process.
Hmmm... so does OL stand for Open Lead or OverLoad or Open Loop??? Who knows...! But it's for sure not the same as zero
Shawn Kopp will
Over Limit
you're all Outa Luck... stop inventing shtt...
I think you ment 0L-infinity, no connection. And reading .000- means shorted!
Awesome video . So thank you sooooo much
4:50 it not reading zero-zero-zero... in fact it was reading OL (overload), OL (overload), zero. And that last one is the problematic diode (out of the six that are in the rectifier)
BIll Geo “open lead”
BIll Geo ol over limit.yes its not zero 3rd😂
What if all the test read nothing zero ????????
hes also teaching everyone the very wrong way. the whole point of the diode is to only let current flow in one direction. the current flow starts with the positive lead on the multimeter.
Dude thank you so much. Suzuki charges an arm and a leg just to look at it. I’ve had this problem for four or five years. Call me cheap but I wasn’t willing to pay what they wanted just to diagnose the problem. I’ve been thinking it was a fuel problem this whole time. No dang wonder I couldn’t find the problem. You the man.
You "go in reverse and do it twice", cause this way, you actually test a "whole" single time: There´s 6 diodes, and in the first run, you checked only the first 3 of them, and the 3rd diode was burnt. In the 2nd run, you tested the remaining 3 diodes, which were all 3 OK. So, you tested 6 times, cause you have 6 diodes, and the 3rd one was burnt. If you dont "go in reverse and do it twice", then you would have tested only half of the rectifier, totally ignoring the 2nd half of the existing cyrcuit, which can also contain failures. Like checking only your right-car-side-doors, in order to find out if ALL your car-doors are locked. Of course, you have to go around, and check also the left-car-side-doors.
4:42 OL and 0.00 two very different readings. OL is no connection/continuity does not mean 0. 0.00 is a reading.
0.00 on diode scale is a hard short
Lol, this guy has no clue
HELP.. mine different- 3 wires in a 4 pin connector- they blk-red-green.... then i got 2 seperate bullet connection wires.. pink and other is yellow.. any ideas.. ? mine 1982 honda cb 125s..
i have a boat rectifier i want to test.....unsure. I have 2 yellow, 2 red and a white. For a 1993 johnson 70 outboard engine
My diode on my simple Cal Tech multi meter defaults at 1 (not .0L)
Thank you so much for doing this--most coherent description of performing this test
Instablaster...
You can test the rectifier diode, how about the regulator? You can not check the transistor if it is working or not,the best testing is to start your motorcycle and check the output voltage of the regulator..
I replaced this when it went bad and was frying my battery. It also fried my ignition switch. I replaced this and I replaced the ignition switch now the bike turns over but won't start. Can anyone help? I'm hearing it could be the igniter module but they're scarce and pricey.
Thank you, great job. You made it so easy.
My bike stalls when the signal is on and braking and i saw someone having the same problem changed the R/R to one from a kawasaki ninja and all the problems went away
Ty for this
Thanks bro, this video helped me a lot.
rganks for very informatibe video, bew subscriber.
Nice video will this test work the same on a 4 wire rec/reg w/ red black white yellow its on a 89 yamaha breeze
Solid video. Appreciate when people go into actually explaining the function of each component, rather than just showing the steps without explanation. helps me internalize and learn a lot more effectively. Thanks man!
W
Can you do this test with it still hooked up on a bike. Do you have to unplug it ?
Just having a charging issue on a Norton 1973 850 commando with a 3 stage regulator. Battery was giving me mixed signals, thought it may be an issue with a Motobatt Agm battery. Still may? However with your video, I just brought the new replacement regulator inside to check and it tested perfect, just as you instructed. Thanks so much!!!! I will pull the old one in soon and check it out per your video. At least I'll know more than I know now, and have narrowed down the odds. Bets are on the 20 year old Regulator!!!!! Just waiting to start bike up and see 14V and higher when throttle is opened, instead of 12.9 and 13V. Stator is good!!!! Robert TN
OMG thank you for a simple dumbed down video!
Finually, the regulator that you tested is bad or good ? Please response , thank you
Ehm, the "OL" stands for "overload" and definitely not for zero 🙂 but indeed, the test has shown, that one of the diodes in the R/R is dead - meaning, a new R/R unit is required to be able to properly charge the bike.
OL = open line
On my bike, the (black) plug that connects the reg/rec to the stator is starting to melt.
The output is also too high, measured at the battery. 18 volts.
I replaced the reg/rec 3 months ago and now it appears to be broken again.
Does anyone know what may be causing this?
There are no special features on the bike except that the blinkers and the headlight are LED units.
One of the blinkers has some water in it but still works. And I have heated grips from oxford, and on the control unit, one of the lights isn't working anymore (it shows the setting, 20%,30%,50%,80%,100% or something like that).
Nice and clear vid man, had to replace it too on my sv650. Stator was next though. R/R fried Stator died.
Finally got to remove and test the regulator/rectifier today. Found it to be toast! There was only current flow one way.Through the ground. Not good... Will be ordering a new one asap! Thanks again. RC
Glad it worked out!
That's how diodes work man. only supposed to be current one way.
so it wasn't the rectifier that caused the issue i assume as it is the way it should work. what was the outcome?
Would a bad rectifier make it so you dont havd spark?
Is it possible for it to flow the opposite direction and not the right way
reg can send a uncontrolled volt and kill the cdi. most time the reg just dies and doesn't charge. good video the Sv650 is a major problem with the bike
+Christian Chapman thanks man for the tip and checking out the vid.
+PistnRods you should do a video on head bearings..I just done it and it was a major pain. a video would have been awesome...just watch the sv650 die so hope u get that sorted
thanks for the vid but when you said you didn't know much about electrical stuff, you weren't bullshitting....the arrow looking thingy.. yup thats a diode symbol.
Youre a genius Bevis ....
When I tested the positive all came out “OL” which is good but when testing the negative three came came out at “0.5” one came out at “0.9” and the last one came out at “1.6”
Does this mean my rectifier is bad?
Regulator Rectifier if its bad could it cause ground wire issue
What makes them get hot 🔥...mine is getting hot on my ATV
And that folks is how it's done. R/R cannot be fixed if bad. Must be replaced with new one. Preferably OEM.
I changed my rectifier twice and changed the stator on my 02 Honda 500 Rubicon and it still doesn't charge, any suggestions on what is wrong??
Great video! Very clear and easy to follow! Thank you!
+Gene Chicago glad to help 8)
Mine has a green wire not just red and black
Great video!
Hope you can help on this issue:
A few days ago, while riding my SYM VS 125, a lot of smoke started coming out of the front of the bike and the engine started to fail. I turned off the ignition and cut the battery current.
At home I took it apart to see what was going on and the rectifier was visibly burnt.
I took the bike to a workshop where they changed the rectifier and the battery, but they didn't solve the problem. The new rectifier continues to heat up a lot and too fast, as if something is short circuiting.
As they couldn't solve the problem and it still cost me a few €€, I picked up the motorcycle with the fault.
Tests i have done:
- the battery is new and has 13.1V before the starter
- with the three yellow wires from the stator connected to the rectifier, the bike works fine at low revs, fails at medium and the rectifier heats up uncontrollably; with these wires disconnected from the rectifier, the bike works well at any speed, but as we know, the battery is not charged
- at idle the 3 yellow wires measure about 40V from stator
- the resistant test on stator show equal values on three wires; no ground conductivity; no open circuit on each coil
- apparently all the masses are well connected.
Any idea what it could be causing this recurrent failure of the rectifier?
Note: traditional G6Y carburetor engine with electronic rectifier and CDI, year 2010.
What if there is another white and red wire coming out of it to
hello i need help in the reverse way i have this readings .512 , .514 and .497 is this last reading a faulty sing?? thanks
My SV650 doesn't get used much and the last couple of times i went to use it the battery was too low to start. I'll have to test my regulator rectifier to see if it needs replacing or if the battery is playing up.
so my rectifier tested bad following this, but now my new rectifier tests the same? Thoughts?
Big help with this video man, thank you I really appreciate it!
Hi. How can I check a kz650 regulator? Thanks it has 1 cable yellow red and 3 cables in the harness. 2 yellow red and a black
So if my numbers were 562-562-571 on the 3 prong stator wire does that mean it’s good or bad
Thank you. Clear.
Cool,is there a way to test ur cdi?
It’s reversed for me.
hey I have a problem with my honda steed vlx 400 model 1994 , suddenly my regulator rectifier died , I bought a new regulator made in Taiwan , I put it in my motorcycle all is good , one moth latter or two months my new regulator is died , I bought a new Taiwan regulator 1 week same of that one and is died again and every regulator I put in my motorcycle a little of time and is died and burn and trash
and I dont know what I should do I pay above the 200$ of regulatores
I want any help please , thank you thank you very much , and I am an aircraft maintenance student
I want to start with any test , stator or rotor or battery or if there any short in my circuit or if the new regulator is made in Taiwan and the motorcycle is japan please any help thank you.
Ok, here's a project for you to figure out because I don't understand this problem at all. I have a 05 trx350fm Honda Rancher 4x4. So here's the problem, the atv had been setting outside for at least 4 yrs. so I got it and cleaned it up and replace a lot of things on it, but when I rebuilt the starter and put it in the 4 wheeler, well when I try to crank it I can here the starter but it's not turning the motor over. So I took it back off and put my finger in the starter hole and could fell a gear. The gear will turn clock wise easily (clockwise looking at it from the back of the motor). So I took a digital caliper and mic the distance from the gear to where the starter would be if mounted, I also mic the length of the starter gear and the starter gear is plenty long enough to reach the gear inside of the motor.
So I'm at a point to where I have no idea what to do. I would certainly appreciate any bodies help with this. Thanks.
sucks that nobody does one on internal regulator and rectifier.. my bike has internal as one until, meaning it actually has a alternator.. I have drops from 10 v at startup down to 3v after a few second and don't know if it's the rectifier not sending proper voltage or if it's the regulator not changing volts properly and causing undercharge and causing my wires to melt in the plug, which BTW is a two wire plug (keyed and constant/charge)
Where is the regulater location
Behind the exhaust side rear fairing.
Thanks a lot please explain why the battery is not charged although the battery is new as well as the regulator
Reverse bias is the word you were looking for when switching from positive testing to negative testing diodes
thanks
thanks for the explanation. I am working on a jet ski, but the concepts are the same (rectifier, stator).
Can you show me how to do this with a stator.
Rick’s electric Motorsport/ check their channel on how to
thank you for tech
I have changed new one but still the battery not charged
If I do the battery terminal test running/non-running and the voltage jumps to where it is supposed to while running, do i still need to do this diode test? or is it safe to assume all three connector pins are good?
wats is the actual number for multi meter reading?my r/r reading come out each is 7++ so is good for my r/r?
I got 5.12 5.30 5.11 on one that’s bad right
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing, but no knowledge is worse
how hot is to hot for a rectifier my one hot but not burning my hand hot but the 3 yellow wires are getting warm
my main fuse to scooter is fine when i turn ignition key to on position i have no instrument panel ligts horn gasguage nothing can u tell me what component i have blown
Have you checked the battery? I've had a flat battery and nothing lit up. No lights nada.
If your main fuse to scooter is fine then, you might have a bad battery.
Well explaind 👍
will this procedure is the same for series rectifier such as compufire?
ive got 2.75 on 2 and 2.95 on 3rd is it bad
0.L is totally different than .000
Excellent , A huge thanks to you 👍👍👍
this terribly needs a TLDR
Good vid mate. Hope I didn't need to do this in the future haha. Like your new logo too.
The last time I messed with electricity was in grade school with a potato and light bulb. Thanks my logo has to be the simplest thing ever lol.
Haha the old potato trick
Thank U - This was helpful!
Welcome to Cape Coral brother👍👌
Good clear instructions in this vid, thanks.
I'm testing the R/R on a VFR 800-5 after a major loom meltdown... I get ~0.365 reading on each diode, but three 1's the other way around.
Might this be what's popping the main fuse every time I turn the ignition on?
+Draycos the 1.0 is normal, sometimes that's how multimeters show infinite resistance. The .365 could be low though. A way to look would be in the manual, the voltage ranges are usually in there. If you don't have one try searching for a pdf version online. A weak R/R wouldn't pop a fuse though. Something is shorted from the meltdown. You may have to trace the wires down. :(
what if it's a 7 wire rectifier. does it just mean there are 2 sets of power and ground?
Cdi unit cheeking how
Very helpful!
So, the bad diode would indicate an issue with the stator, not the regulator/rectifier?
Is there another method to confirm it's the stator and not only the regulator/rectifier?
thanks in advance,
The stator generates AC current, the diode is used to make it DC, which is the task of the rectifier. So that means the diode is in the rectifier. To prove it, look at what he measures; the rectifier without any connection to the stator/magneto. When he uses a given polarity order of red/black of the multimeter, it measures normally everywhere around 0.5Ohms, but when he switches it to black/red, then for normal working, the rectifier should prevent the AC, so there has to be OL shown for all measurements, but it only happens for 2 out of the 3, as for the 3rd it shows 0 Ohm, which means that the diode is not converting the AC to DC of one of the phases coming from the stator -> leads to dead battery.
Thanks Dude, fairly straight forward to follow. I have a faulty Kawasaki ZX600R Charging system and will certainly carry out this test.
Good stuff
Hello my SV brother 😁
Hey guys. Will a funny regulator rectifier blow fuses?
If it’s shorting
Wooow thanks man it's helpful video.
You see that "symbol"... See how it points in one direction? That's because diodes are used to create a forward bias. it will only flow pos to neg, not neg to pos. Before you give advice you might wanna know what you're talking about. (I have a degree in electrical engineering, just trying to help.)
For what he is explainting it was fine. He isn't teaching a course
so whats your conclusion ? you need a new regulator ?
Yes. Fluctuations means the rectifier is on the fritz.
Thank You.
Very useful! I have 2 bikes that this will be used on. Thanks a bunch! :)
l am macianal do
Got a 2001 Honda Shadow 750 ACE, with the same issues. Runs fine when started, and doesn't stall or show signs of dimming lights. Although after a few starts the battery wears down. Regulator Recitfier is a SH633-12. Reading results of the old Rectifier are [Neg Wire] (Pos Post) = 5,0,0 [Pos Wire] (Neg Post) = 0,0,0 [Pos Wire] (Pos Post) = 5,0,0 [Neg Wire] (Neg Post) = 493,509,507. Getting the new replacement today, and will post it's results.
It can really be tricky tracking electrical problems. Let us know how it works out.
PistnRods Just got the new Regulator Rectifier, Reading Results are, [Neg Wire] (Pos Post) = 0,0,0 [Pos Wire] (Neg Post) = 0,0,0 [Pos Wire] (Pos Post) = 444,443,427 [Neg Wire] (Neg Post) = 452,460,459.
So yeah, that old one was really gone.
Thanks for the help bro!
Chuck Lanman glad it helped. Now back on the road. :)
Why is it none of these videos show where the location of the rectifier is in the bike😩
It's connected to your battery so you should be able to find it
Thanks for the help bb
nice
good viedeo