For anyone asking why you would replace the plastic drain valve, I woke to my garage being flooded by my water heater. It was full pressure water just streaming out into my garage all because of the cheap plastic drain valve that failed. I replaced it with a brass drain and would suggest to anyone else with plastic to replace their before it's a problem
Oh man sorry to hear about that. Big fan of brass here. Way too many issues. I pinned your comment. Hope it will help some people out. Thank you for sharing your story.
I was having trouble removing my plastic one, after watching this video I noticed you pulled the cover plate and grabbed the pipe closer to the treads. This helped a ton, was able to remove this plastic junk and install the brass one. Thank you for this video.
My electric water heater is so full of sediment, that it would not drain! I had to remove the lower heating element to drain the water; messy, but luckily, I was only a few feet from the sump pump. The plastic drain valve is clogged; I removed the valve in it, and then I could pass a small coat hanger wire through it but that still wasn't enough to clear it. I thought of removing this valve, but the water heater is old, and I thought that I might get myself in trouble if it broke off in the tank. I was happy to see that you too, had trouble removing yours. Perhaps I'll get a new replacement as you suggested and then give it a go! Thanks for the great video and encouragement!
You are a good friend to help out! Looks like your friend needs to add a sediment trap on his gas supply , perhaps a follow up install video. Thanks for taking the time to post this and for including the issues with removing the plastic valve.
Great video! I would consider using a "regular" 3/4 ball valve with a straight 3/4 MGH (male garden hose) adapter so it's a direct path (with no bends) into the water heater.
Great seeing someone fixing the exact problem with the exact parts as myself. Really helpful. It was trying so hard to twist the plastic valve off that i thought maybe it was impossible.
I repair and install water heaters for a living. In most cases I turn off the water at the main or the meter, leaving the water heater supply valve open, open a couple of faucets and let air in that way to drain a tank. A pump such as the Milwaukee battery powered one connected to the drain bibb works wonders for expediting the drain. Old crusty pressure relief valves sometimes don't re seal, but I always open them if the water heater is being replaced.
I don't mess with too many water heaters, but from working with boilers and guys who have done work for decades, the SOP was always to never touch a safety valve. We've only replaced them. Typically they would end up being replaced (after an inconvenient shut down) because after popping them to 'test' they'd have a dripping leak that never quit.
Needed to replace a plastic valve on a brand new water heater yesterday and it just wouldn't budge with my "regular" size wrenches, even after applying some WD-40. I was wondering whether it would come out at all without breaking. Encouraged by your video, I went back home and brought my heavy "big gun" wrench similar to yours and hooray, I got it loose and removed.
That's was crazy tight..... Great helper taking care of everything behind the scene. I think another homeowner maintenance thing everyone could do or learn would be a sacrificial anode replacement. Let's Get To Fixin! 🛠
Well that plastic valve was a pain in the bottom to get out. The Brass one is at least 100 times better quality . It is a shame that manufactures cheap out on stuff like that , it just drops the over all quality of their products all in the name of saving a buck when making the product. Hey Jett nice work man , thumbs UP to you for helping Brian !
So true Richard! I feel like you can one get water heaters with brass drain valves at plumbing supply houses these days. Jett did do a great job. Thank you for checking this out. Did you send me your address? You were a winner the other night if I’m not mistaken.
Glad to see I'm not the only one to have difficulty removing old drain valve. I'm about to try the channel locks. Afraid I may snap the plastic without removing it, then I don't know how I will adapt... Also, why would you do any water heater maintenance with the electric still on?
Thank you. This was straight to the point. I replaced it myself and saved about $300. I used liquid nails around the threads though. I hope that's ok. 😆
Thanks for the vid bro. Replacing that exact same piece of plastic crap. Mine developed a pin hole and sprayed a jet stream of water on the wall insulation in upper attic and down in the wall to downstairs. Luckily I heard it dripping in the wall and caught it after only maybe a half gallon went down the wall. 🤬🤬🤬🤬
In minute 3:42 you recommend to loose the inlet to facilitate the drain letting air entering the tank. One option to get the same effect is opening the closest hot water faucet and keeping it open meanwhile the tank drains.
I just bought a A.O. Smith Signature 100 40-Gallons from Lowe's and tried to replace the valve and the plastic POS snapped off with only a small section now sticking out. Now wondering what to do? Any suggestions?
Nice. Note: Thread sealant, sometimes known as pipe dope, can ruin your clothes/ furniture if not careful. I consider it worse than paint when it comes to cautionary tidiness. A blob of white sealant stuck to something transfers to something else, and it can make a "simple" job a less-than-excellent event. Just my rule because I am a real slob otherwise. Correct me if I'm wrong. Also, I would have been tempted to use my propane torch to melt that junky plastic valve and pull it out to avoid a trip and extra expense. I use the torch a lot in a pinch, to strip wire insulation, loosen things that are stubborn, etc. which can be safer than using a utility knife to cut off some tuff duct tape, etc. Requires diligence and caution, that's all. Thanks for the excellent vid.
Your right that pipe dope can get really messy. I don't know about using a torch on that valve. I think you would end up burning the insulation around the tank. Could turn into a disaster real fast.
I was at the hardware store the other day, and a customer had broke is plastic drain valve off at the threads on the inside of the tank trying to unscrew it. The 3/4 hose threads also cross thread very easily on the plastic valves.
I am amazed at the number of people who do NOT replace the plastic drain value on their water heater when the WH is brand new. It seems like a common sense need to me. I've been doing it for the past 40 years with no issues.
I just bought an ao smith 100 series 50 gal gas water heater. I haven't installed it; it's sitting in my garage. I know I wanted to swap those drain plugs before I do that but having a hard time finding a suitable replacement. Are they all 3/4in at the base? Was thinking about a siklcock type fitting if I could find a shorter stemmed one
I also like to work the tape into the threads to help me start threading the fitting. Instead of using your fingernail to work the teflon tape into the threads, use the edge of your teflon tape roll. It's perfectly sized for pipe threads.
I had the same problem getting the old valve out but made it. I was waiting for his to break off like mine did. Before filling, I filled it about 1/3 of the way from the bottom to steer it up the drained it again. This broke up the caked-up deposits on the bottom. He did not need to do that as it was a newer tank. Next, I would take the aerator off the valve I am releasing the pressure if it had one so I would not plug it up.
Any thought about breaking the old valve loose just a tee-tee before draining the tank? Might be less jostling around an empty tank. Watching that tank move around when you were trying to loosen the old valve made me squirm a little.
A O Smith, Made in America, went with cheap plastic drain valve. Keeping plumbers 'making money'. Like cars with cheap parts keeping dealerships fixing vehicles.
I hate plastic sometimes. Plastic is used, so many times, in places where it really shouldn't be. I was amazed at the amount of force you had to use to get the plastic valve. I really thought it might break. What would you have done if it had broken off with some, or all of the threads still in the water heater?
I broke mine trying to get it off then I heated it up with a heat gun and picked the bits out with a screwdriver being careful not to mess up the threads. They should give you the option of buying a water heater without the worthless plastic valve fused in the hole.
Very informative, thanks for sharing. I've been wanting to do this, but am worried I'll snap the pipe behind the valve that attaches to the tank. I couldn't tell when you removed the old valve. Is it just the valve itself that is plastic or is the pipe that attaches it to the heater also plastic?
It is all plastic. If you break it, use a metal saw blade to carefully cut the plastic and chip the plastic out. Another video on YT shows this by AMRE supply.
Recommend that you get a piece of plastic you can fold and use that to lead the water from the drain valve to the bucket -- that way you don't have to remove the cover.
Things rarely goes as planned! 😂 😂 I'm replacing my plastic valve, I installed the water heater many years ago, can't remember when. The valve has been leaking more and more, I'll replace it. it's on order from ebay. local H-depot's valve online $99. ouch! ebay $15.
Years ago I replaced a plastic drain valve with a brass valve and it was pretty tight but I managed to get it loose. I bought a new A O Smith water heater that came with this really cheap plastic valve. I tried every thing including a pipe wrench with a cheater bar but it just would not move. I just gave up because I did not want to break that valve in my new water heater. Any suggestions?
I am replacing my AO ProMax with the Lowes Signature 500 series which has a Nylon drain valve instead of brass as found on the AO commercial ProLine series? Nylon is a hygroscopic resin and absorbs moisture so why use it on a hot water tank drain valve? I will just remove the brass one on my old one and use it if it is in good shape.
One tip to save water: if you have a swimming pool, do this in start of summer, put a transfer pump and drain the water to your swimming pool so water won't wasted.
i am lucky my water is soft so i never play with the valves i am always worried some dirt will get in seat and make it leak I considered changing the anode on water heater but didn't want to break a perfectly good water heater that is not broken. I wouldn't want to try doing that valve replacement on an old water heater
I’m there with you. If your water is soft and you don’t get a lot of sediment then I would not mess with it. I have see water heaters never touched last over 40 years. They use to build em like tanks! If you start having problems then address issues. I like preventative maintenance, but sometimes run to fail is a good options as well.
You are lucky you didn't crack the plastic drain valve. You guessed it, it happened to me on a Rheem water heater. For the life of me, I just cursed Rheem forever in using a part that is totally unsuitable. Guess, they never want you to replace that valve. Another thing is that Crescent self-adjustable wrench didn't work for me. It slips no matter how I position it, it wouldn't bite onto an surface you want to loosen.
may want to shut the power off to the water heater before anything. noticed the status light flashing while you were getting ready to remove plastic valve. water + electricity = ruining your day.
@@ThatFixItGuy My shutoff screw does not completely close so I put a cap on it. I may change mine to one like the one you installed. I hope mine is not smoked on like yours.
If there was a shut off on both hot and cold then maybe you could try it, but I would never take that chance with hot water. Water will still come out just slower than it would with an air source. Drain the tank was the best option
and now his new heater is scratched up! jk.. why dont they just use a brass valve at the factory? how much money are they really saving? im guessing plastic saves some minuscule amount of heat transfer loss
Broke plastic pipe...try open ended and a small hacksaw like blade and vise grip and carefully cut inside out and use pliers to turn out or pull pieces. Be careful not to damage hot water heater tank pipe threads.
Why are you loosening fittings to introduce air into the tank when all you have to do is open a faucet at the highest level of the house? Also, using a garden hose for hot water is asking for trouble. If you don't have a contractor grade hose, which will handle hot water, run the hot water in the house, with the gas turned to pilot, to reduce the temperature of the water in the tank; or you could wait until after someone takes a shower.
VERY DANGEROUS! A child can easily open that valve and burn themself! I would take that handle off and place it on top of the water heater and when ever needed just put it back on !
@@ThatFixItGuy he probably pays hundreds of dollars for the pros to make minor adjustments lol he seems to be missing the point of your vids. Thanks for showing us we can do this ourselves and save money.
I can't believe they cheap out on these drain valve. And why not just use curved dip tubes? Because they don't want their water heaters to last! Make sure you loosen your anode rod when it's new, because if you can't get it out later it won't come out.
For anyone asking why you would replace the plastic drain valve, I woke to my garage being flooded by my water heater. It was full pressure water just streaming out into my garage all because of the cheap plastic drain valve that failed. I replaced it with a brass drain and would suggest to anyone else with plastic to replace their before it's a problem
Oh man sorry to hear about that. Big fan of brass here. Way too many issues. I pinned your comment. Hope it will help some people out. Thank you for sharing your story.
How old was your water heater?
Happened to me last week! Piece of shit plastic valve
Thanks
@@steveolive9991 2 years
I was having trouble removing my plastic one, after watching this video I noticed you pulled the cover plate and grabbed the pipe closer to the treads. This helped a ton, was able to remove this plastic junk and install the brass one. Thank you for this video.
You’re very welcome. So glad this helped you out.
My electric water heater is so full of sediment, that it would not drain! I had to remove the lower heating element to drain the water; messy, but luckily, I was only a few feet from the sump pump. The plastic drain valve is clogged; I removed the valve in it, and then I could pass a small coat hanger wire through it but that still wasn't enough to clear it. I thought of removing this valve, but the water heater is old, and I thought that I might get myself in trouble if it broke off in the tank. I was happy to see that you too, had trouble removing yours. Perhaps I'll get a new replacement as you suggested and then give it a go! Thanks for the great video and encouragement!
You are a good friend to help out! Looks like your friend needs to add a sediment trap on his gas supply , perhaps a follow up install video. Thanks for taking the time to post this and for including the issues with removing the plastic valve.
Great idea That is true. Many heaters around here need em. Don't know what they don't put them in here.
Great video! I would consider using a "regular" 3/4 ball valve with a straight 3/4 MGH (male garden hose) adapter so it's a direct path (with no bends) into the water heater.
Great seeing someone fixing the exact problem with the exact parts as myself. Really helpful. It was trying so hard to twist the plastic valve off that i thought maybe it was impossible.
Thanks for this, I was able to use this video with a Rheem Water heater that decided to start leaking only 2 years in
Your welcome. It really is a great option. Especially for water heater maintenance
Same here! Happy to see and read that it worked for you. Will be tackling the same this weekend. Any pointers not mentioned I should know about ?
Same here! It wasn't broken, it just worked its way open. Seems like a serious design flaw.
Thank you so much, I have that same plastic valve and same issue TIGHT as hell!!! I wasn't sure it was threaded in it was so tight.
YOU ARE GOD SEND. I have the same model but electric. I was afraid of breaking the valve off. To see someone else have the same problem. Thank you.
That pipe wrench, from Home Depot, was the ticket for getting the plastic valve off of the new Water Heater. Thanks.
Your welcome. It did work really well. Thinner than a traditional pipe wrench.
I’m having the same problem trying to take out the plastic drain valve! The self adjusting wrench is a great idea! Thanks!!
I repair and install water heaters for a living. In most cases I turn off the water at the main or the meter, leaving the water heater supply valve open, open a couple of faucets and let air in that way to drain a tank. A pump such as the Milwaukee battery powered one connected to the drain bibb works wonders for expediting the drain. Old crusty pressure relief valves sometimes don't re seal, but I always open them if the water heater is being replaced.
That is a great call. Nice to test the shit off and make sure it works though. I bet that pump comes in handy.
I don't mess with too many water heaters, but from working with boilers and guys who have done work for decades, the SOP was always to never touch a safety valve. We've only replaced them. Typically they would end up being replaced (after an inconvenient shut down) because after popping them to 'test' they'd have a dripping leak that never quit.
Thanks for listing the part and how to order it. I was looking all over for it. Thanks again.
Needed to replace a plastic valve on a brand new water heater yesterday and it just wouldn't budge with my "regular" size wrenches, even after applying some WD-40. I was wondering whether it would come out at all without breaking. Encouraged by your video, I went back home and brought my heavy "big gun" wrench similar to yours and hooray, I got it loose and removed.
That's was crazy tight..... Great helper taking care of everything behind the scene.
I think another homeowner maintenance thing everyone could do or learn would be a sacrificial anode replacement.
Let's Get To Fixin! 🛠
You are so correct! That is a big one. that my friend is a pinned comment. At some point that will be a great video! Thank you Chris!
My ñ
I ended up going with a powered anode, they use them in commercial water heaters and last way longer than a traditional anode rod
I thought you were going to break the gas components on that water heater. GOOD JOB!
Well that plastic valve was a pain in the bottom to get out. The Brass one is at least 100 times better quality . It is a shame that manufactures cheap out on stuff like that , it just drops the over all quality of their products all in the name of saving a buck when making the product. Hey Jett nice work man , thumbs UP to you for helping Brian !
So true Richard! I feel like you can one get water heaters with brass drain valves at plumbing supply houses these days. Jett did do a great job. Thank you for checking this out. Did you send me your address? You were a winner the other night if I’m not mistaken.
@@ThatFixItGuy Hello Brain , yes I did send a message to your gmail account at ufix247 . Thank you !
Thanks for the great information Brian, hope you have a great weekend 👍
Thank you Britt! I hope you do as well!
@@ThatFixItGuy did you get my email with my address
I can don’t think so. Ufix247@gmail.com. Hit me up again. Thanks Britt!
Thank you both for great information!!
Glad to see I'm not the only one to have difficulty removing old drain valve. I'm about to try the channel locks. Afraid I may snap the plastic without removing it, then I don't know how I will adapt...
Also, why would you do any water heater maintenance with the electric still on?
Never drain your heater with the electric on. This was a gas heater. I thought I was about to snap that drain off as well.
A Child can install this unit. Great quality!!
Great video brother. That’s crazy how tight that value was. You had a great little helper also.
Yeah it was way too tight or my arm is still pretty weak. Maybe a mix.
Thank you. This was straight to the point. I replaced it myself and saved about $300. I used liquid nails around the threads though. I hope that's ok. 😆
I hope it was some sort of pipe dope and not liquid nails. But hey if it worked you may be on to something. Glad this helped.
@@ThatFixItGuy No more leaking so I guess it worked. 🙂👍🏾
@@ThatFixItGuy oh man.
use PTFE thread sealant tape instead...it's not messy, easy to use and inexpensive (about 50 cents for a small role at Home Depot).
Thanks for the vid bro. Replacing that exact same piece of plastic crap. Mine developed a pin hole and sprayed a jet stream of water on the wall insulation in upper attic and down in the wall to downstairs. Luckily I heard it dripping in the wall and caught it after only maybe a half gallon went down the wall. 🤬🤬🤬🤬
Great detail video
I have the same valve but it’s blocked and worse it’s in basement with the heating and cooling system. Don’t know what to do
Good video, but where do you buy the new brass ball valve complete. Other videos show that you have to buy individual pieces and build it yourself.
In minute 3:42 you recommend to loose the inlet to facilitate the drain letting air entering the tank. One option to get the same effect is opening the closest hot water faucet and keeping it open meanwhile the tank drains.
I just bought a A.O. Smith Signature 100 40-Gallons from Lowe's and tried to replace the valve and the plastic POS snapped off with only a small section now sticking out. Now wondering what to do? Any suggestions?
Looks like a nice upgrade!
It will be super helpful for maintenance. Thank you!
Great vid, thx so much
Nice. Note: Thread sealant, sometimes known as pipe dope, can ruin your clothes/ furniture if not careful. I consider it worse than paint when it comes to cautionary tidiness. A blob of white sealant stuck to something transfers to something else, and it can make a "simple" job a less-than-excellent event. Just my rule because I am a real slob otherwise. Correct me if I'm wrong. Also, I would have been tempted to use my propane torch to melt that junky plastic valve and pull it out to avoid a trip and extra expense. I use the torch a lot in a pinch, to strip wire insulation, loosen things that are stubborn, etc. which can be safer than using a utility knife to cut off some tuff duct tape, etc. Requires diligence and caution, that's all. Thanks for the excellent vid.
Your right that pipe dope can get really messy. I don't know about using a torch on that valve. I think you would end up burning the insulation around the tank. Could turn into a disaster real fast.
I was at the hardware store the other day, and a customer had broke is plastic drain valve off at the threads on the inside of the tank trying to unscrew it. The 3/4 hose threads also cross thread very easily on the plastic valves.
Super helpful! Thank u!
Your welcome. I hope we can help again.
Thank you so much for this. It helped a lot. 🙏🙏👍👍👍👍
So glad this helped you out. Hope we can help again.
I am amazed at the number of people who do NOT replace the plastic drain value on their water heater when the WH is brand new. It seems like a common sense need to me. I've been doing it for the past 40 years with no issues.
I just bought an ao smith 100 series 50 gal gas water heater. I haven't installed it; it's sitting in my garage. I know I wanted to swap those drain plugs before I do that but having a hard time finding a suitable replacement. Are they all 3/4in at the base? Was thinking about a siklcock type fitting if I could find a shorter stemmed one
I also like to work the tape into the threads to help me start threading the fitting. Instead of using your fingernail to work the teflon tape into the threads, use the edge of your teflon tape roll. It's perfectly sized for pipe threads.
That is a great call. I never thought of that.
And saves from a possible brass splinter or cut from rough edges on the threads.
I had the same problem getting the old valve out but made it. I was waiting for his to break off like mine did. Before filling, I filled it about 1/3 of the way from the bottom to steer it up the drained it again. This broke up the caked-up deposits on the bottom. He did not need to do that as it was a newer tank. Next, I would take the aerator off the valve I am releasing the pressure if it had one so I would not plug it up.
I’d love to know if that was an AO Smith. I just bought one and I’m having to use quite a bit of force.
Any thought about breaking the old valve loose just a tee-tee before draining the tank? Might be less jostling around an empty tank. Watching that tank move around when you were trying to loosen the old valve made me squirm a little.
Thanks!
Your welcome.
FYI opening the p&t valve depending on the condition can cause a drip &
open a hot water faucet to break the vacuum
A O Smith, Made in America, went with cheap plastic drain valve. Keeping plumbers 'making money'. Like cars with cheap parts keeping dealerships fixing vehicles.
I hate plastic sometimes. Plastic is used, so many times, in places where it really shouldn't be.
I was amazed at the amount of force you had to use to get the plastic valve. I really thought it might break. What would you have done if it had broken off with some, or all of the threads still in the water heater?
I broke mine trying to get it off then I heated it up with a heat gun and picked the bits out with a screwdriver being careful not to mess up the threads. They should give you the option of buying a water heater without the worthless plastic valve fused in the hole.
Very informative, thanks for sharing. I've been wanting to do this, but am worried I'll snap the pipe behind the valve that attaches to the tank. I couldn't tell when you removed the old valve. Is it just the valve itself that is plastic or is the pipe that attaches it to the heater also plastic?
It is all plastic. If you break it, use a metal saw blade to carefully cut the plastic and chip the plastic out. Another video on YT shows this by AMRE supply.
Recommend that you get a piece of plastic you can fold and use that to lead the water from the drain valve to the bucket -- that way you don't have to remove the cover.
That is a great call thank you.
That’s exactly what I did for mine and it worked perfectly! Just a big scrap piece of anything shoved under the inlet and right into the bucket/pan.
Things rarely goes as planned! 😂 😂 I'm replacing my plastic valve, I installed the water heater many years ago, can't remember when. The valve has been leaking more and more, I'll replace it. it's on order from ebay. local H-depot's valve online $99. ouch! ebay $15.
Why does AO Smith gas water heater state, "Do Not Replace plastic drain valve with brass valve?"
In this particular case I prefer to go by the old saying, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
I took my plastic drain out flushed the tank and put it back in without tape or dope…think it’ll be ok? I didn’t see anything on it when I took it out
THANK YOU
Years ago I replaced a plastic drain valve with a brass valve and it was pretty tight but I managed to get it loose. I bought a new A O Smith water heater that came with this really cheap plastic valve. I tried every thing including a pipe wrench with a cheater bar but it just would not move. I just gave up because I did not want to break that valve in my new water heater. Any suggestions?
Try replacing it in a couple years ,I bet you have a better outcome.
I used an old school pipe wrench and no cheater. It was still very tight though
If I was at home I would don’t the same. Glad it worked out for ya.
You need to place a brass hose cap on the valve to prevent accidental valve opening, in case of small children...
Mine leaked all over my thermo switch now my tank is showing code 5 any help?
I am replacing my AO ProMax with the Lowes Signature 500 series which has a Nylon drain valve instead of brass as found on the AO commercial ProLine series? Nylon is a hygroscopic resin and absorbs moisture so why use it on a hot water tank drain valve? I will just remove the brass one on my old one and use it if it is in good shape.
That is interesting to know. Thank you. Money is why unfortunately. Full port brass valve is the way to go.
How do you drain the water heater with a non-operating and plugged drain valve??
The tank heater must be turn off over night and you can try to stick a wire through the valve and hope for the best.
One tip to save water: if you have a swimming pool, do this in start of summer, put a transfer pump and drain the water to your swimming pool so water won't wasted.
I always replace with a ball valve before even filling it for the first time
i am lucky my water is soft so i never play with the valves i am always worried some dirt will get in seat and make it leak I considered changing the anode on water heater but didn't want to break a perfectly good water heater that is not broken. I wouldn't want to try doing that valve replacement on an old water heater
I’m there with you. If your water is soft and you don’t get a lot of sediment then I would not mess with it. I have see water heaters never touched last over 40 years. They use to build em like tanks! If you start having problems then address issues. I like preventative maintenance, but sometimes run to fail is a good options as well.
8:35 That's what she said! lol (I'm sorry.)
You are lucky you didn't crack the plastic drain valve. You guessed it, it happened to me on a Rheem water heater. For the life of me, I just cursed Rheem forever in using a part that is totally unsuitable. Guess, they never want you to replace that valve. Another thing is that Crescent self-adjustable wrench didn't work for me. It slips no matter how I position it, it wouldn't bite onto an surface you want to loosen.
The plastic drain was so tight , makes you think they used Locktite on it. I was afraid it would break before loosening.
may want to shut the power off to the water heater before anything. noticed the status light flashing while you were getting ready to remove plastic valve. water + electricity = ruining your day.
You're very lucky, I did mine and the pipe broke off , I had to drill out
The replacement valve you link is out of stock permanently on Amazon.
Oh that is a bummer. I will try and get that taken care of tonight. Thank you.
such a good valve at a good price. I put a link for the 3'' shank valve by the same company. Hopefully they don't run out. Thank you again.
What happenes when your hot water heater is back flowing
What if plastic valve cracks and breaks leaving stub in tank?
If it breaks like mine did, just use a small hacksaw blade to carefully cut out those pieces that remain in the threads.
Never leave Home without your Tools!!!
HAVE TOOLS WILL TRAVEL
My heater has been installed for ten years. I would never use that much force on a plastic valve,out of fear it would shear off.
You should glad to be able to remove that plastic drain valve. It known to break.
The valve has a stop for open/close and tab on lever was not touching one on valve.
Oh I did not notice that. Thank you
@@ThatFixItGuy My shutoff screw does not completely close so I put a cap on it. I may change mine to one like the one you installed. I hope mine is not smoked on like yours.
Waiting for that plastic to snap off. Then is back to the box store for an easy out.
Why drain the tank? If you shut off the water line, won't the water stay in the tank?
If there was a shut off on both hot and cold then maybe you could try it, but I would never take that chance with hot water. Water will still come out just slower than it would with an air source. Drain the tank was the best option
They dont care. Big companies like Rheem want them to fail over the years. Plus every dollar counts when selling thousands of these
Could've left the system vaccum locked and it wouldve gave you time to swap the valve.
and now his new heater is scratched up! jk.. why dont they just use a brass valve at the factory? how much money are they really saving? im guessing plastic saves some minuscule amount of heat transfer loss
So you have a flooded basement and you have to call a plumber to come out and pay him 1k to replace it.
Broke plastic pipe...try open ended and a small hacksaw like blade and vise grip and carefully cut inside out and use pliers to turn out or pull pieces. Be careful not to damage hot water heater tank pipe threads.
Should of cracked the plastic bib before you drained the watrt
Why are you loosening fittings to introduce air into the tank when all you have to do is open a faucet at the highest level of the house?
Also, using a garden hose for hot water is asking for trouble. If you don't have a contractor grade hose, which will handle hot water, run the hot water in the house, with the gas turned to pilot, to reduce the temperature of the water in the tank; or you could wait until after someone takes a shower.
That is a couple great points. Thank you for your comments
I had to shut my water off outside on my side walk to replace this stupid plastic valve smh 🤦🏽♂️ got a little wet but got the job done 🤣
This guy is a hacker
Mine broke off
i am jett
I love it. Hope you have been good Jett and family!
VERY DANGEROUS! A child can easily open that valve and burn themself! I would take that handle off and place it on top of the water heater and when ever needed just put it back on !
Thank you. I should have put that in the video. He totally did that. I will be doing a future video on that.
Karen, have you removed all of the hot water handles from your faucets as well? 😂
Cap it off
"WHY?..." It's called PROFIT.
Of course it would break off flush if I did it
couldn't your fingernail just cut a line straight through the teflon?
I don’t know. I guess I’ve never tried it. I will check.
Plumber job security
He sounds like joe rogan.
you could never work on my stuff
Too rough on things?
@@ThatFixItGuy he probably pays hundreds of dollars for the pros to make minor adjustments lol he seems to be missing the point of your vids. Thanks for showing us we can do this ourselves and save money.
Awkward
Awkward!
I’m always that way.
I can't believe they cheap out on these drain valve. And why not just use curved dip tubes? Because they don't want their water heaters to last! Make sure you loosen your anode rod when it's new, because if you can't get it out later it won't come out.
I know. They don’t build em to stay for 40+ like the old school ones. That is a great call to loosen the anode and tape and dope. Thank you.