Great video!! I think putting that cap/plug on at the end is good for the reasons you stated, but also an extra one: safety! While the original valve would be very difficult to accidentally open (and virtually impossible for a very young child/toddler), the ball valve handle is easier to open accidentally (let's say it catches on a piece of clothing or something), and very very easy for a child to open. Depending on the setting of your water heater, it could be very dangerous if a curious toddler got ahold of the handle. However, by putting the cap on (and tightening it well, like you did), you've virtually eliminated that risk. If someone wanted to go the extra mile, they could even get a ball valve that can be locked. Anyway, just pointing out a nice extra benefit of what you did - nice work!
Hi Kronikax - thanks for pointing that out! One other safety step you can take is to simply remove the handle from the ball valve entirely when it's not going to be used. It comes out with a single phillips head screw, and can be stored out of reach of young kids until it's needed. Thanks for watching!
I purchased these components for a brass 3/4" drain. The ball valve cost just under 30 bucks, and the rest of the cost was near 40 bucks, but I considered it an investment. Making life easier sometimes cost a little. And I will get rid of this cheap plastic drain which always been a headache, leaks just enough to be a problem.
Always tape and dope is what I was taught, only suggestion I would have for you is when using a pipe wrench is to have it adjusted so that it makes contact on 3 sides of the wrench especially when you have to get it super tight, this prevents collapsing or egg shaping the pipe. Thank you and keep up the good work
Great idea and great video! If I may make a suggestion though, the 3 inch nipple may be too short (9:02), in other words a 3 1/2 or 4 inch nipple would work better at least in your case. You see, when you need to replace the valve again at whatever time in the future, when you loosen the set up the nipple may not turn together with the valve (most likely what will actually happen) and therefore there won't be much to grab on to it to remove it, at least not without damaging the thread and making it useless (15:02). Just my 2 cents. Good day.
If you're ever trying to seal fittings for high pressure water sources (~100-120psi), which like me you might get from your city's water supply, you will absolutely want to use both teflon tape and and pipe dope. I learned this the hard way after hours of sweat and labor. With just teflon tape, no matter how much I used or how tight the fitting was, after a minute or two, I'd always notice a small drip forming. Then with just pipe dope, that kind of pressure will actually force some of the dope out through the threads before it can harden and cure. With both however, it has been 100% dry and have I been able to sleep easy.
If the pressure is that high, your supply pipe should have a pressure regulator on it where it comes into the house. I think, it my area, it's required to pass inspection.
Just wanted to say a big thank you! My relief valve started leaking last week, so what what was going to be an easy relief valve replacement turned into a full overhaul of my water heater. Due to the sediment build up and the ridiculously small drain valve on the water heater it took forever to drain. I ended up replacing the drain valve as well. The flush process went so much faster after replacing that valve with a 3/4" ball valve, and so much more sediment came out. I am actually looking forward to draining and flushing next year :)
Great video. An idea to consider: it's a great idea to take a little wrench and remove the blue handle from the drain when you're done. Put it and the nut in a baggie and put them on top of the water heater. Why? Because when you or your spouse is working and carrying stuff around, an errant step could easily hit that blue handle and open it all the way or just a little bit. If it's just a little bit, you're going to have a slow leak that might take some time to notice. When you want to drain the tank, you just put the handle and nut back on and drain accordingly and then remove again. Also stops curious little hands from opening the drain.
Very creative DIY solution for the pain I was facing for years. My Kenmore water heater came with a small plastic valve and it was getting clogged every time I was trying to drain my water heater. Following these instructions, I was able to replace it yesterday. What I liked most about the video is the way every details are meticulously covered.
To be honest, I may never attempt this project, but I wanted to compliment you on the quality of this video. Well thought out, narrated and edited. Good audio too. Thanks.
The drain valve on my water heater has been leaking almost since the day the plumber installed it. It never occurred to me I could replace it with something better. Thanks!
Very helpful video, thank you. I had a plastic valve that was leaking and decided to install a brass valve like this video describes. Everything went well, except the brass valve and nipple was REALLY HOT. This is obvious if you think about it for more than one second, but I guess I hadn't thought about it that long. (Since I was going from plastic to metal this was a concern for me. It might not be a big deal for someone replacing a metal valve.) I would recommend insulating the drain line with some foam or pipe wrap so you don't have someone bump into it or grab hold of it and get a little surprise. Especially with these 3" and 4" nipples that are being discussed.
Great point: The brass will conduct heat very well, so the whole brass valve will heat up. Wrapping it with some foam insulation (or a short section of cut up pool noodle) will keep it from scalding anyone.
I really appreciate the clarity of each step you explained and the close-up and clear photos of all the details. Great teaching talent here. Keep up the good work.
I went to Home Depot today and purchased what I needed to make the valve for my 40 gal Rheem Water Heater. Presently it has that inferior plastic valve which I hate. I used Blue Monster teflon tape (which is blue) and Blue Monster PTFE Pipe Thread Sealant. I prefer to use both and go the extra mile. I don't like dealing with leaks. Not at all. Thanks for the video.
TIP: Although not too critical in this drain application, you should always start Teflon tape with two threads showing at end of male thread. When threading in pipe, any overhang will chop off and Teflon tape remnants will be in system potentially causing problems hanging up in small orifices, seats, etc.
i just built this for my water heater and man does it work! i was able to pulse the water on and off to stir the tank and i got like 20 buckets of dirty chunky water even some of the large chunks came out that larger ball valve! thanks for saving me a ton of time and prolonging the life of my already 15 year old water heater! still lots to do! but you have helped a TON.
Agree with tape and dope. I change these without draining tank. Shut off supply but don't open faucet or PT valve. Have new valve assembled with tape and dope. Pull old valve and insert new and tighten. Very little water will spill out.
I have asked what the tape does. One answer is that it makes the joint slipperier so the friction does not keep you from getting the joint tight. The dope does more, fills in and seals cracks so no water gets through. Hard to find people who are authoritative on these things.
Excellent video. When using a pipe wrench, you should always use a “3 point contact surface” by using the 2 wrench contact pads and the back surface of the wrench so you don’t accidentally crush the pipe
This video is by far better than several others I've seen, which seem strategically bereft of specifics. Example, one showed the larger valve assembly only after the 4 necessary parts were already purchased, taped and or doped, and screwed in to make one unit. Were they possibly setting things up to show they were far more professional and capable, and so, save yourself the D.I.Y. fail embarrassment before the family panel of judges? Just pay the expert. OR find another video, of more honest and superior quality. DIY with the kindness of details and encouragement. THANK YOU for the Amplify more than Ample D.I.Y. tutoring. SUCCESS AND ADMORATION BY the JUDGES.
Excellent video, and the parts all laid out with the packaging with the descriptions was very helpful. I just got back from the hardware store and installed the kit in just a few minutes
I've seen a couple videos on this. I checked my water heater and it didn't have a place as the other person's video for a backup wrench. I wasn't about to try loosening the valve without a backup until I knew you could remove the valve without a backup wrench. Now I know it can be done without loosening the female end in the tank. Thanks
Both videos on this valve upgrade and your anode replacement are great. You explained each step carefully and thoroughly to help a newbie understand completely. Nicely done and God bless ya!
Dear sir, thanks for this video, I was always annoyed at how the drain valve leaked. I got all the necessary parts and it was easy to replace the old valve with a new full-port valve. Without your video, I don't think I would have ventured to try it.
Just wanted to thank you for going beyond the common instructions of just open a hot faucet to allow air in, and why that might not work. My tank wouldn't drain but it clearly wasn't due to a sediment clog either. When you mentioned that some fixtures just won't allow air to backflow it finally made sense. I disconnected the cold inlet and it drained easily.
This is one of the best DYII videos ever done. I rely on these types of videos to do a lot of repair jobs in my home. This by far was a top video. You covered all the great fine details that needed to be addressed during the project. thank you so much for your excellent video.
That was the most helpful explanation for applying teflon tape. I *thought* I understood it before, but when you showed your fingers in place of the female threads turning in the direction of the tape, it made it super clear.
Great video! My heater is similar to yours so I did exactly what you did. We get lots of sediment in our heater so I plan to drain it at least every 6 months.
This video helped me tremendously! Had to drain a water heater in a new purchase home to clean and drain after a well repair brought in filthy water. I wasn't confident in doing so until i watched you explain its simplicity. Thanks a million!
I've done many connections with pipe dope alone. Ive done many connections with Teflon tape alone. In both cases if they leak, tighten them a bit more. I suggest not making things more complex than necessary. If it don't leak... job done.
Very clear instructions, confidence-building tone and well produced video. Never had a problem with just the teflon tape. I have found all your videos, that I could use, very useful. Thank you for your tips.
Thank you. I drained my water tank and it took about an hour because of the sediment. It was draining slowly and there were times I had to use an air compressor to clear it. . After it was drained, I was afraid to change the valve like you did, but you have me a little confidence to do it when I drain it the next time.
i will make this adaption on each new water heater for the rest of my natural life! a property maintenance dream come true (too bad no plumber i used ever suggested something so simple and smart). such an important improvement for a few dollars. thank you AmplifyDIY -- i subscribed!
Ahhhhgggg. I've been putting the teflon tape on backwards. Thanks for the great lesson on doing it right. You are the first one I have seen using the hot water instead of just draining it all. I would do a shower and or load of laundry to use it up. Then if there is a glitch in fixing something, at least I am clean with clean clothes!
Excellent video! I'm a licensed Mechanical PE and DIY'r but that does not make me a plumber. I really appreciated that you explain WHAT you did but also WHY. It really helps when my configuration does not exactly match yours. Kudos
VERY useful information with all tips and techniques included! I followed this to a T, including the toothbrush and tape/dope, and it is working perfectly.
Thank you for this video. Last night the plastic drain cap (doesn't have an actual valve on it, just a plastic fitting with another plastic cap on that) blew off my tank, flooded my downroom, tomorrow morning I'll be headed to the hardware store to get all the pieces I need to replace it and actually have a valve on it. After it blew off, and flooded my downroom, I had to shut my water off to my entire house at the mainline out by the road in front of my house. I was able to put the plastic fitting back on, but it is leaking worse now and since it blew off once, I know I need to replace it again so it I'm not at risk of it blowing again. I try to be pretty independant and I'm not afraid of DIY projects, but I'm always thankful when I can find good videos that allow me to see the whole process and also help me learn alternative ways that can be more efficient when future maintenance needs done. So again, thank you from this DIY widow!!!
Although I’ve never seen or read this technique - it makes sense to me and works so far. 3 wraps of tape on male, a bit more of wrap near the base and just enough dope on female to fill the thread valleys.
Thank you, what a carefully planned and instructive video. After more than a week of dumping a pail of water everyday from the Leakey plastic drain valve on a 7 year old water heater, assuming I needed to replace the entire unit, (and waiting for any plumber to return my call) I now clearly see how basic the repair is and plan to do it today. I’ll let you know how it goes - thanks again, my life is no longer on hold !
I did it ! Thank you again for providing the thorough instructions ! A few of things I found out: 1) I had the plastic drain valve that had a slow drip and it appears to have a plastic faucet handle - wrong. I tried tightening it to stop the drip without success and when I got to the turning it on to drain I found I needed a screwdriver to actually open the valve. Now that I have it off the “handle” I can read the fine print - Open with 1/4” screwdriver, since the valve is at the bottom of the tank it’s tough to read. 2) Although I like your ball valve replacement for a long term fix, I’m planning to go tankless and just wanted to fix the drip until I get the tankless in the near future. From your video I got the impression that there are a variety of sizes for drain valves because you made the point of sizing your old valve when you went for the new parts. However it appears that 3/4” is the universal water heater drain size. Knowing that I was able to get the part before doing all the draining. I got the Everbilt universal brass drain valve at Home Depot today for $8.58, much better quality than the original equipment plastic valve which was $18 on Amazon. 3) I let the water drain for about an hour, thinking it was almost empty and I made the mistake of reading one of the other commenters where he swaps out drain valves all the time without emptying the tank, stating that not much water comes out. Well obviously he’s a pro and knows exactly what to expect. I’m not, when I removed the valve a gush of at least two gallons drained out before I was able to install the new one. Lesson learned, short cuts are for pros. Thanks again the drip is history !
PS: I appreciated that you pointed out you did NOT have to turn off the gas, but rather switch it to pilot setting. Other videos have you shutting off gas and then dealing with relighting the pilot, it was nice not adding another unnecessary step.
I'm glad you were able to swap your valve - even though you wound up with several gallons of water on the floor. 😬 Hopefully you have no further issues until you get your new tankless installed. Good luck!
I just put in a new hot water heater. Installed a 3/4” full port brass ball valve. I used a dielectric nipple. Reason being is the brass will cause corrosion due to the dissimilar metals. Also, a good idea to install a shut off valve for the hot water line to the water heater
Great video. This saved me so much money, and I feel at ease knowing that I’ve got a nice new brass ball valve instead of the crappy plastic garbage that comes with the hot water heater. Back up and running good as new. Appreciate this video and all the help you provided in full detail!
Great video, Hope mine goes as well lol. I was a natural gas piper for a while and we used pipe and dope, now i work for a gas utility company and we use only dope on gas pressures up to 5 pounds. thanks for building my confidence
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing. I’m going to change the valve on my hot water heater this weekend. I think I’m going to try to make a makeshift suction tube and attach it to a shop vac in order to get as much sediment out as possible. I figure when the valve is removed, that will be the perfect time to do a thorough cleaning.
Good idea! Yes, when the valve is out you'll have the best access into the bottom of your tank... it's still a pretty small hole though - but maybe you have a really thin attachment for your shop vac that can reach in there. Good luck!
Did you ever get this done. I'm looking at putting in a bigger drain valve so I never have to do what you're describing again! I've had my house for 4 years and I just did the following for the second time. I have an old piece of garden hose. Old and pretty stiff. I feed a few inches of it into my shop vac hose and duct tape the crap out of it so the shop vac is pulling through the old garden hose. Then I take out the bottom element (after turning off the power and draining of course). Luckily I can operate my main water inlet from the city from a sitting position right in front of the water heater. I vacuum out the the water and sediment. Then I fill the water heater up to just below the bottom element hole and vacuum again. And again. And again. As I remove sediment I fill the water heater with less and less water. Constantly taking the filled up shop vac bucket out and dumping it. I've tried both vacuuming out "dry" sediment and constantly adding more water to the sediment. My sediment chunks are frickin huge. When I tried to vacuum them up dry they instantly clogged the end of my garden hose so I'd have to clear the end non stop. Adding water helped to kind of thin the mix I was sucking out. But I did have to go dump many buckets of water. I do this for about an hour and it's not fun. When I'm done I end up with a five gallon bucket over half full of this white seashell crap! I really hope a wide open valve like this will prevent me from having to do my process again!
I love watching your tutorials, they've helped me so much. You've got the attitude that lets people know that you know what you're doing. Have a great New Year and thank you so much.
Just using the tape properly makes a huge difference, I once listened to someone that said you need both and they might have been right but not if you put the tape on backwards! My connections kept leaking until I just started over with the tape properly.
Thanks for the DETAILED video. When plumbers do these videos I think they gloss over some details we lay people would not think of, i.e. the direction of the teflon tape. Some plumbers will tell you to NEVER drain water heaters...or open the pressure valve. Perhaps they want your heater to not last longer so they can sell you a new one?
Great Video. Awesome Demonstration. Great Idea on the end cap for Safety because you never know when the little kids will go wonder off and start playing with things around the House..
Thank you for this video. The original spout is just trash and used the exact same setup as you without the cap. Home depot ran out of caps for some odd reason haha. Flushed it again with new part and a lot more sediments flushed out. Teflon tape was the only thing I used on my threads. No leaks. Thanks again!
Thanks for your earlier response to my comment on your other vid where I mentioned installing an additional valve on the drain in case you can't fully shut it off after draining the tank. Your solution here is obviously a much more elegant one, and I like the larger valve for sure. I just think for the number of operations it will ever see and for the inexperienced homeowner, just adding a 2nd valve is simpler. As for the tape & dope question. I don't think I've ever heard that before. Interesting. What I was taught, though, is that when you think you've put enough tape on, double it. I put a lot of tape on and have never had a leak. Cleaner technique, for sure. :)
Hi Rich - interesting strategy with the tape. I've heard that you can overdo it with teflon tape, and that the butter zone is between 4-6 wraps. But I say whatever works for you is the way you should do it. Thanks for watching!
@@AmplifyDIY Exactly. Most people do 2-3 wraps with the tape. Doubling it gives you 4-6, or what I was taught. :) Great videos. Thanks for all the tips.
Decades ago, when I owned my own house, and I had to replace the water heater, I replaced the plumbing going to the water heater and installed globe valves on both the supply and discharge pipes, with a third valve on the down-flow side of the globe valve. That way I could completely isolate the water heater from the house plumbing entirely and allow air into the water heater for draining. With the aid of a union so the drain valve could easily be disconnected from the water heater, I installed a drain valve and plumbed it so that the water would drain out the side of the house. That way if I needed to replace the water heater again I could turn off the water and immediately open the drain valve and the air valve and allow it to drain. This setup also enabled me to periodically open the drain valve at will to flush out any sediment before it had a chance to build up any troublesome amount in the tank. I also bought several sacrificial rods and stored them next to the water heater and replaced the rod every few years just to insure that it was always in good enough condition to protect the tank from electrolysis.
Really awesome video!! I pretty much made up a rig similar to this for my water heater today.. We've been on fire hydrant bypass water while the main line was being cleaned and lined.. The water the last few weeks has been smelling/tasting a bit metallic and gross.. So I was wanting to drain it out (never have done it) and got a bit worried when I heard the plastic ones can break. Had a smallish leak out of it last night so thought I should prolly upgrade to a full gate valve. The cap is a most excellent touch, the old valve had never been touch and was coated in dust and cat hair. Great video again!! Oh for what it's worth I took your advice with the both teflon and joint compound.. Not something I want to be tinkering with in my lifetime of the house..
Although the tape and joint pipe dope is a good idea, the compound will get pushed out of the way with the treads tightening instead of sealing the threads. It may be necessary to dope up the female threads as well, not just the male ends. I would like to drain my tank when the women are away for a day or two, and knowing it is a plumbing project, if more than 1 thing can screw up the smooth flow of the project, more than likely it could be 5 things. Ain't plumbing a fine trick on a weekend?? Bob
After installing the new valve with a larger orifice...I think it would have been a good idea to partially fill, agitate and drain the tank again to ensure any remaining sediment that couldn't fit through the smaller factory valve is flushed.
Don't forget to make sure that when you open the ball valve the handle points outward. Check it before you assemble everything or you'll have to take it all apart and start over.
Teflon tape: Hint: 𝑨𝒍𝒘𝒂𝒚𝒔 hold the tape with your left hand and turn the pipe with your right hand. It's easier to roll the pipe away from you and that happens to be clockwise. If you switch off between left or right randomly, you'll lay the Teflon backwards sometimes and wonder why it leaks.
Probably a good idea to use both. I have used just tape on some fairly high pressure applications with no problems, but with water, if it can possibly leak, by golly, it will
Hello, first of all thank you for your helpful videw and I appreciated. Do you have any videw or instruction of replacing Reducer Valve? I am planning to replace the expansion tank and reducer valve at the same time.
I once went to a Loctite seminar. They explained that teflon tape only lubricates the threads so you can get the joint tighter. Pipe sealant actually seals the threads. They also explained to not use tape on hydraulic or fuel systems because a piece can get loose and go where you don't want it to go. Lastly, as a mechanic on hydraulic systems sometimes we needed something to point a certain way, and that may be a half turn from fully tight. In that case the sealant still sealed everything. Just my two cents.
thats the right way to install the valve! I wanted to do the same on mine when I installed a NEW water heater, except the original valve is plastic and wouldn't budge! so I left it... 7 years later, and I just had to replace the heating elements.... now to try to upgrade the drain!
Excellent explanation, thank you. Our water heater has a nylon drain valve, in the attempt to remove it using a pipe wrench we can move the water heater. Suggestion: Turn off the background music, keep in mind we came to hear you not fight the music. It is beyond me why UA-cam creators while they are talking think it is important playing music. At your next business meeting when the speaker begins talking turn up music to about the volumn of their voice, notice the reaction of the attendees; not good. Many folks have hearing difficulties thus background music quickly becomes extremely annoying and distracting.
We have hard water where i live so doing regular maintenance on water heater is a must. Replaced the crappy small bore drain with 3/4" and it's made all the difference. Easy to flush the scale out now....before the scale used to clog the drain and take over an hour to drain....plus it wouldn't flush the scale out anyway. You must do this if u want to keep ur heater running longer and saving some money
Quick note, keeping it all 3/4". Drain and clean out prior to install. I insert a clear poly pvc tubing attached to wet/dry vac and insert tubing into sump of tank to suck out crud. Add additional water to mix up, and repeat until you don't see/hear any more calcium. Install new parts being 3/4" quarter turn ball valve with a male hose end with a metal hose cap.
I think the tubing he's referring to is used to attempt to vacuum out the sediment at the bottom of the tank prior to installing the new drain valve. I personally would prefer to flush the tank the right way either right before or right after installing a 3/4" drain valve... It's just too difficult to reach all around the bottom of your tank with a hose through that little drain hole.
Someone else mentioned this to me in Home Depot. But I didn't ask how they did it.it may be faster. I have the plastic valve that would continuously clogged. I would have to blow into my drain hose to unblock it. (Tip for ya all...) I was curious how sticking these hose in might work because it would have to be a little bit smaller and had assumed that he was stirring up, and sucking out the sediment. But maybe you are right that he was sticking in the tank trying to suck out the wet settlement. all I know is that with the plastic valve it really was hard to get anyting out because each time I would flush it would instantly get blocked and I would have to blow back into the hose to knock it out. When things looked clean I would flush again and a chunk would get caught. I do believe this little change would put many water heater sales out of business and that's why they put in such a bad valve to start. Back when I installed this tank 10 years ago I had read about changing them and just didn't take the advice. my biggest concern now is whether or not the plastic valve will come out in one piece as many say they will break. however prior to this, about a week ago I had flush the tank and then soaked 4 gallons of 6% vinegar in the bottom hoping that would help. maybe it will help the valve come out but for the chunks of what I assume is magnesium the vinegar wasn't doing much. I do have lime in the water but these trunks didn't seem to react in straight vinegar so I'm not sure if it's calcium or magnesium or just that the vinegar got neutralized after 6 hours.
@@Thatsmessedupman The inside bottom of the tank is like a pyramid, round dome. The water drain valve sits above the bottom of the tank, several inches up. No way to fully drain out unless if you tip it over on its side. So, yes attach a clear flexible poly vinyl tubing( the diameter a little smaller then opening of 3/4 ball valve) to a wet/dry vac. I, initially drain and flush, and drain and flush. Then insert tubing, slowly turn on inlet water to stir up bottom crud, and turn on vac. Notice all the crud coming out through the clear vinyl tube. Not difficult at all, move it around, bend it up and down, it flexes. I do this, fill and suck about 5 times until water is free and clear. Need to replace the plastic cheap drain valve with an all brass 3/4 ball valve attached to a 3/4 brass nipple, with a 3/4 male pipe nipple to a male hose end.
Great video. I've read some guides recommending a dielectric nipple to avoid corrosion. But it looks like the one you removed wasn't plastic coated (dielectric).
I am a Certified Tech teacher in Electrical / Mechanical Technology. Very nice video - in fact it is excellent! I hope you have that electrical circuit protected - with a ground fault interrupter commonly called a GFI as it is near the water faucet!
My 2021 Taco only required 3 connections to vehicle, all on left side of steering colum. Colum did not need to come apart. 2 phillips screws, 1 ten mm bolt is all that needed to be removed. Very simple. There are different videos with varying steps with differing locations and even stripping wires.
Tape for installing faucets -- 1/2" and 3/8", for convenience and neatness. Dope for running supply lines 1/2" and up. If you want to put tape on 3/4" pipe, it needs to be thicker tape.
I would also suggest turning “off” the water heater instead of going to the pilot setting to protect the heating mechanism from burning out because there is no water in the tank. I also like using the tape and the pipe dope together as is is a “belt and suspenders” approach to prevent leaks and the pipe dope as a lubricant to protect the tape from ripping on the pipe threads. Good video!
Thanks, Bill! I prefer to just go to the pilot setting as re-lighting the pilot light can sometimes be a challenge, and I don't see much danger in letting the pilot stay lit. It won't provide enough heat to cause concern for the tank integrity. Thanks for watching!
The purpose of the Teflon tape is not really to seal the joint, but to lubricate the insertion of the threads. You only use tape on a tapered joint where the farther the pipe turns, the closer the threads engage each other. The seal is accomplished by the tapered contact of the two surfaces... the tape lubricates the two surfaces which allows them to turn into each other closer.. Never think of the tape as sealing anything. The paste is for gluing the pipe surfaces together. There are two kinds of paste where one dries and the other stays fluid. the fluid one will usually contain Teflon in it which again allows the surfaces to tighten closer and thus seal... The drying kind literally seals the gaps in pipes that are rougher and keeps them from unscrewing with vibration or pressure applied. Tubing sealed with tape has a risk of unscrewing and this must be taken into account if you choose to apply it. Just a little stuff to keep in mind on tape vs paste... Stan
It looks to me like you got it exactly backwards. Decades ago when I was a kid, I worked with my dad and plumbers for a summer. There was no such thing as Teflon tape. We did a lot of galvanized pipe. The plumber told me that pipe dope does not seal anything, it is too much like grease and just gets washed out. What it does is act as a lubricant, like grease, so you can tighten the pipe tighter and feel it while you are doing it. Teflon is regarded as "slippery", but I've never heard of it being a lubricant in tape form. When you disassemble an old joint, you can see how it gets cut up and forms strings. It would seem to me those strings are filling in the gaps between the threads, helping to seal it. I suspect the answer is: If it don't leak, that's all that matters.
If a child decide to turn the the ball valve, that COULD be a problem IMO. By the way I have just installed your great idea an hour ago 36 buckaroos total parts and subscribed too THANKS
I wonder if the smaller diameter was on purpose to create a higher exit velocity that may remove more debris from the bottom. If rivers are an analogy, Fast water erodes, Slow water deposits. Here with sediments we would be wanting erosion. I'm sure the difference would be negligible, perhaps even just theoretical, and the important thing is that you flush the tank annually.
Hi Don - interesting thought, but remember that the increase in velocity only happens at the restriction - i.e., the speed of the water across the bottom of the tank will not increase at all... it only speeds up right at the exit, which won't help clear the sediment off the bottom of the tank at all. I'm convinced manufacturers only put in these really small valves as a cost-saving measure. Thanks for watching!
Teflon Tape vs. Joint Compound vs. BOTH? Discuss....
If the pipe dope makes removing the old teflon tape easier to do once the joint is broken, I'm all for it.
Pipe dope, cant ever put too much, it will ooze out. Teflon tape can put too much or too little.
@@Marvinthecoinhunter i like BOTH. Dope will reduce teflon tape damage and make a good seal. Goes in smoother,too.
Use whichever one is closest to your hand. Both is nice, just dont make an extra trip to the store if you're missing one of them.
Here's one for you. In the past I've seen dope, tape and dope again. To each his own I guess.
Great video!! I think putting that cap/plug on at the end is good for the reasons you stated, but also an extra one: safety! While the original valve would be very difficult to accidentally open (and virtually impossible for a very young child/toddler), the ball valve handle is easier to open accidentally (let's say it catches on a piece of clothing or something), and very very easy for a child to open. Depending on the setting of your water heater, it could be very dangerous if a curious toddler got ahold of the handle. However, by putting the cap on (and tightening it well, like you did), you've virtually eliminated that risk. If someone wanted to go the extra mile, they could even get a ball valve that can be locked. Anyway, just pointing out a nice extra benefit of what you did - nice work!
Hi Kronikax - thanks for pointing that out! One other safety step you can take is to simply remove the handle from the ball valve entirely when it's not going to be used. It comes out with a single phillips head screw, and can be stored out of reach of young kids until it's needed. Thanks for watching!
I purchased these components for a brass 3/4" drain. The ball valve cost just under 30 bucks, and the rest of the cost was near 40 bucks, but I considered it an investment. Making life easier sometimes cost a little. And I will get rid of this cheap plastic drain which always been a headache, leaks just enough to be a problem.
You can remove the on/off lever and hang it up on top of heater for safety to prevent kids or accidental opening.
How do I remove the brass cap and chain? I have to take it to be replaced at the big box store
I was about to say that the cap was a waste, but as a landlord, you've converted me. People opening that for some reason is going to happen.
Always tape and dope is what I was taught, only suggestion I would have for you is when using a pipe wrench is to have it adjusted so that it makes contact on 3 sides of the wrench especially when you have to get it super tight, this prevents collapsing or egg shaping the pipe. Thank you and keep up the good work
Great tip, thanks!
Great idea and great video! If I may make a suggestion though, the 3 inch nipple may be too short (9:02), in other words a 3 1/2 or 4 inch nipple would work better at least in your case. You see, when you need to replace the valve again at whatever time in the future, when you loosen the set up the nipple may not turn together with the valve (most likely what will actually happen) and therefore there won't be much to grab on to it to remove it, at least not without damaging the thread and making it useless (15:02). Just my 2 cents. Good day.
Good info . May change mine soon .
If you're ever trying to seal fittings for high pressure water sources (~100-120psi), which like me you might get from your city's water supply, you will absolutely want to use both teflon tape and and pipe dope. I learned this the hard way after hours of sweat and labor. With just teflon tape, no matter how much I used or how tight the fitting was, after a minute or two, I'd always notice a small drip forming. Then with just pipe dope, that kind of pressure will actually force some of the dope out through the threads before it can harden and cure. With both however, it has been 100% dry and have I been able to sleep easy.
If the pressure is that high, your supply pipe should have a pressure regulator on it where it comes into the house. I think, it my area, it's required to pass inspection.
@@mrcryptozoic817 Oh I know. I found this out explicitly while installing such a pressure regulator in my older home. 😂
So from what my dad told me at night water pressure rises at night and you have less pressure during the day
Just wanted to say a big thank you! My relief valve started leaking last week, so what what was going to be an easy relief valve replacement turned into a full overhaul of my water heater. Due to the sediment build up and the ridiculously small drain valve on the water heater it took forever to drain. I ended up replacing the drain valve as well. The flush process went so much faster after replacing that valve with a 3/4" ball valve, and so much more sediment came out. I am actually looking forward to draining and flushing next year :)
Awesome, Michael! Great job!
Plumber told me if you drain every year and replace anode Rod every three years, water heater will last decades.
The part where you started showering to not waste the hot water 🤣🤣🤣 totally made my day. Thank you!
Great video. An idea to consider: it's a great idea to take a little wrench and remove the blue handle from the drain when you're done. Put it and the nut in a baggie and put them on top of the water heater. Why? Because when you or your spouse is working and carrying stuff around, an errant step could easily hit that blue handle and open it all the way or just a little bit. If it's just a little bit, you're going to have a slow leak that might take some time to notice. When you want to drain the tank, you just put the handle and nut back on and drain accordingly and then remove again. Also stops curious little hands from opening the drain.
Great idea. Thanks unclematt!
Very creative DIY solution for the pain I was facing for years. My Kenmore water heater came with a small plastic valve and it was getting clogged every time I was trying to drain my water heater. Following these instructions, I was able to replace it yesterday. What I liked most about the video is the way every details are meticulously covered.
Great job getting yours done!
To be honest, I may never attempt this project, but I wanted to compliment you on the quality of this video. Well thought out, narrated and edited. Good audio too. Thanks.
Wow, thank you!
The drain valve on my water heater has been leaking almost since the day the plumber installed it. It never occurred to me I could replace it with something better. Thanks!
Very helpful video, thank you. I had a plastic valve that was leaking and decided to install a brass valve like this video describes. Everything went well, except the brass valve and nipple was REALLY HOT. This is obvious if you think about it for more than one second, but I guess I hadn't thought about it that long. (Since I was going from plastic to metal this was a concern for me. It might not be a big deal for someone replacing a metal valve.) I would recommend insulating the drain line with some foam or pipe wrap so you don't have someone bump into it or grab hold of it and get a little surprise. Especially with these 3" and 4" nipples that are being discussed.
Great point: The brass will conduct heat very well, so the whole brass valve will heat up. Wrapping it with some foam insulation (or a short section of cut up pool noodle) will keep it from scalding anyone.
I really appreciate the clarity of each step you explained and the close-up and clear photos of all the details. Great teaching talent here. Keep up the good work.
Thanks so much!
Please use more light showing Step by step.was dark couldn't see good what you were doing. Thanks.
I went to Home Depot today and purchased what I needed to make the valve for my 40 gal Rheem Water Heater. Presently it has that inferior plastic valve which I hate. I used Blue Monster teflon tape (which is blue) and Blue Monster PTFE Pipe Thread Sealant. I prefer to use both and go the extra mile. I don't like dealing with leaks. Not at all. Thanks for the video.
TIP: Although not too critical in this drain application, you should always start Teflon tape with two threads showing at end of male thread. When threading in pipe, any overhang will chop off and Teflon tape remnants will be in system potentially causing problems hanging up in small orifices, seats, etc.
Good tip - thanks for sharing, David!
It’s also good to leave first couple threads tapeless as it helps to prevent cross threading.
Great comment!
Thank you for this! I didn't know that.
i just built this for my water heater and man does it work! i was able to pulse the water on and off to stir the tank and i got like 20 buckets of dirty chunky water even some of the large chunks came out that larger ball valve! thanks for saving me a ton of time and prolonging the life of my already 15 year old water heater! still lots to do! but you have helped a TON.
Excellent!
Agree with tape and dope. I change these without draining tank. Shut off supply but don't open faucet or PT valve. Have new valve assembled with tape and dope. Pull old valve and insert new and tighten. Very little water will spill out.
Yep
I have asked what the tape does. One answer is that it makes the joint slipperier so the friction does not keep you from getting the joint tight. The dope does more, fills in and seals cracks so no water gets through. Hard to find people who are authoritative on these things.
Excellent video. When using a pipe wrench, you should always use a “3 point contact surface” by using the 2 wrench contact pads and the back surface of the wrench so you don’t accidentally crush the pipe
Great tip, thanks!
Indeed
Every how-to vid should be this thorough. Most are not -- and set up DIY folks for failure. And a failure with plumbing often equals a mess.
This video is by far better than several others I've seen, which seem strategically bereft of specifics. Example, one showed the larger valve assembly only after the 4 necessary parts were already purchased, taped and or doped, and screwed in to make one unit. Were they possibly setting things up to show they were far more professional and capable, and so, save yourself the D.I.Y. fail embarrassment before the family panel of judges? Just pay the expert. OR find another video, of more honest and superior quality. DIY with the kindness of details and encouragement. THANK YOU for the Amplify more than Ample D.I.Y. tutoring. SUCCESS AND ADMORATION BY the JUDGES.
You're very kind, Vern. Thank you!
Excellent video, and the parts all laid out with the packaging with the descriptions was very helpful. I just got back from the hardware store and installed the kit in just a few minutes
Thanks for the feedback, and awesome job getting it done!
I've seen a couple videos on this. I checked my water heater and it didn't have a place as the other person's video for a backup wrench. I wasn't about to try loosening the valve without a backup until I knew you could remove the valve without a backup wrench. Now I know it can be done without loosening the female end in the tank.
Thanks
Both videos on this valve upgrade and your anode replacement are great.
You explained each step carefully and thoroughly to help a newbie understand completely.
Nicely done and God bless ya!
Wow, thank you so much! That means a lot.
Dear sir, thanks for this video, I was always annoyed at how the drain valve leaked. I got all the necessary parts and it was easy to replace the old valve with a new full-port valve. Without your video, I don't think I would have ventured to try it.
Just wanted to thank you for going beyond the common instructions of just open a hot faucet to allow air in, and why that might not work. My tank wouldn't drain but it clearly wasn't due to a sediment clog either. When you mentioned that some fixtures just won't allow air to backflow it finally made sense. I disconnected the cold inlet and it drained easily.
Awesome, Jag! So glad it was helpful!
This is one of the best DYII videos ever done. I rely on these types of videos to do a lot of repair jobs in my home. This by far was a top video. You covered all the great fine details that needed to be addressed during the project. thank you so much for your excellent video.
Hey, thank you so much for letting me know it was helpful to you! That's made my day! :)
Installing a new water heater this weekend. I will be doing this strait out of the box.
That was the most helpful explanation for applying teflon tape. I *thought* I understood it before, but when you showed your fingers in place of the female threads turning in the direction of the tape, it made it super clear.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! My heater is similar to yours so I did exactly what you did. We get lots of sediment in our heater so I plan to drain it at least every 6 months.
Glad it worked out. Nice job!
5 years old video but it’s the best explanation video I found
Thanks!
This video helped me tremendously! Had to drain a water heater in a new purchase home to clean and drain after a well repair brought in filthy water. I wasn't confident in doing so until i watched you explain its simplicity. Thanks a million!
I've done many connections with pipe dope alone. Ive done many connections with Teflon tape alone. In both cases if they leak, tighten them a bit more. I suggest not making things more complex than necessary. If it don't leak... job done.
Very clear instructions, confidence-building tone and well produced video. Never had a problem with just the teflon tape. I have found all your videos, that I could use, very useful. Thank you for your tips.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you. I drained my water tank and it took about an hour because of the sediment. It was draining slowly and there were times I had to use an air compressor to clear it.
.
After it was drained, I was afraid to change the valve like you did, but you have me a little confidence to do it when I drain it the next time.
i will make this adaption on each new water heater for the rest of my natural life! a property maintenance dream come true (too bad no plumber i used ever suggested something so simple and smart). such an important improvement for a few dollars. thank you
AmplifyDIY -- i subscribed!
Ahhhhgggg. I've been putting the teflon tape on backwards. Thanks for the great lesson on doing it right. You are the first one I have seen using the hot water instead of just draining it all. I would do a shower and or load of laundry to use it up. Then if there is a glitch in fixing something, at least I am clean with clean clothes!
Thanks, IslandGal!
Excellent video! I'm a licensed Mechanical PE and DIY'r but that does not make me a plumber. I really appreciated that you explain WHAT you did but also WHY. It really helps when my configuration does not exactly match yours. Kudos
Glad it was helpful, Mark!
VERY useful information with all tips and techniques included! I followed this to a T, including the toothbrush and tape/dope, and it is working perfectly.
Awesome, G! I'm glad it was helpful and is working for you. :)
Thank you for this video. Last night the plastic drain cap (doesn't have an actual valve on it, just a plastic fitting with another plastic cap on that) blew off my tank, flooded my downroom, tomorrow morning I'll be headed to the hardware store to get all the pieces I need to replace it and actually have a valve on it. After it blew off, and flooded my downroom, I had to shut my water off to my entire house at the mainline out by the road in front of my house. I was able to put the plastic fitting back on, but it is leaking worse now and since it blew off once, I know I need to replace it again so it I'm not at risk of it blowing again. I try to be pretty independant and I'm not afraid of DIY projects, but I'm always thankful when I can find good videos that allow me to see the whole process and also help me learn alternative ways that can be more efficient when future maintenance needs done. So again, thank you from this DIY widow!!!
I so glad this video was useful for you! Best of luck with the repair. You got this!
@@AmplifyDIY yep, I did it!! And your video is what I give the most credit to, again thank you!!
Although I’ve never seen or read this technique - it makes sense to me and works so far. 3 wraps of tape on male, a bit more of wrap near the base and just enough dope on female to fill the thread valleys.
Tip: Take the aerator screen off of your faucet B-4 you purge the tank. Chunks may plug it up.
I need to drain ALL of the tank to replace the valve,in case I break off that plastic valve!DOH!!!!
Thank you, what a carefully planned and instructive video. After more than a week of dumping a pail of water everyday from the Leakey plastic drain valve on a 7 year old water heater, assuming I needed to replace the entire unit, (and waiting for any plumber to return my call) I now clearly see how basic the repair is and plan to do it today. I’ll let you know how it goes - thanks again, my life is no longer on hold !
Awesome to hear this was useful! Best of luck with your repair. I’m happy to answer any questions that come up for you. Good luck!
I did it ! Thank you again for providing the thorough instructions ! A few of things I found out: 1) I had the plastic drain valve that had a slow drip and it appears to have a plastic faucet handle - wrong. I tried tightening it to stop the drip without success and when I got to the turning it on to drain I found I needed a screwdriver to actually open the valve. Now that I have it off the “handle” I can read the fine print - Open with 1/4” screwdriver, since the valve is at the bottom of the tank it’s tough to read. 2) Although I like your ball valve replacement for a long term fix, I’m planning to go tankless and just wanted to fix the drip until I get the tankless in the near future. From your video I got the impression that there are a variety of sizes for drain valves because you made the point of sizing your old valve when you went for the new parts. However it appears that 3/4” is the universal water heater drain size. Knowing that I was able to get the part before doing all the draining. I got the Everbilt universal brass drain valve at Home Depot today for $8.58, much better quality than the original equipment plastic valve which was $18 on Amazon. 3) I let the water drain for about an hour, thinking it was almost empty and I made the mistake of reading one of the other commenters where he swaps out drain valves all the time without emptying the tank, stating that not much water comes out. Well obviously he’s a pro and knows exactly what to expect. I’m not, when I removed the valve a gush of at least two gallons drained out before I was able to install the new one. Lesson learned, short cuts are for pros. Thanks again the drip is history !
PS: I appreciated that you pointed out you did NOT have to turn off the gas, but rather switch it to pilot setting. Other videos have you shutting off gas and then dealing with relighting the pilot, it was nice not adding another unnecessary step.
I'm glad you were able to swap your valve - even though you wound up with several gallons of water on the floor. 😬 Hopefully you have no further issues until you get your new tankless installed. Good luck!
I was always taught that pipe dope was a sealant and tape was a lubricant. Use them both for a good sealed joint.
I just put in a new hot water heater. Installed a 3/4” full port brass ball valve. I used a dielectric nipple. Reason being is the brass will cause corrosion due to the dissimilar metals. Also, a good idea to install a shut off valve for the hot water line to the water heater
A ball valve for a drain valve is a great idea!
Open port bell valve. Be sure to specify.
Great video. This saved me so much money, and I feel at ease knowing that I’ve got a nice new brass ball valve instead of the crappy plastic garbage that comes with the hot water heater. Back up and running good as new. Appreciate this video and all the help you provided in full detail!
Glad it helped!
I want to thank you …. First time I’ve done something like this and you gave me the confidence to do it!!!!
Nice job getting it done!
I took pics , went to homedepot , bought exactly same items , thank you .
That is awesome!
Excellent video which gave me some pointers for a successful valve replacement. Thank you.
What impressed me the most in this video was that shot at the end where your camera actually autofocused correctly 😂
Ha! Focus hunting drives me nuts!
The suggestion of "burping" the tank with the over-pressure valve is terrific. I would not have thought of it.
Very good video great timing I am doing this next week.
Thank you so much for the Teflon tape+compound tip - it resolved a persistent minor leak in a fitting. Thank you!
Awesome!
Great video, Hope mine goes as well lol. I was a natural gas piper for a while and we used pipe and dope, now i work for a gas utility company and we use only dope on gas pressures up to 5 pounds. thanks for building my confidence
18.5 minutes well spent. Thank You. Literally laughed out loud at 1:48. But your point was well taken.
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing. I’m going to change the valve on my hot water heater this weekend. I think I’m going to try to make a makeshift suction tube and attach it to a shop vac in order to get as much sediment out as possible. I figure when the valve is removed, that will be the perfect time to do a thorough cleaning.
Good idea! Yes, when the valve is out you'll have the best access into the bottom of your tank... it's still a pretty small hole though - but maybe you have a really thin attachment for your shop vac that can reach in there. Good luck!
Did you ever get this done. I'm looking at putting in a bigger drain valve so I never have to do what you're describing again! I've had my house for 4 years and I just did the following for the second time. I have an old piece of garden hose. Old and pretty stiff. I feed a few inches of it into my shop vac hose and duct tape the crap out of it so the shop vac is pulling through the old garden hose. Then I take out the bottom element (after turning off the power and draining of course). Luckily I can operate my main water inlet from the city from a sitting position right in front of the water heater. I vacuum out the the water and sediment. Then I fill the water heater up to just below the bottom element hole and vacuum again. And again. And again. As I remove sediment I fill the water heater with less and less water. Constantly taking the filled up shop vac bucket out and dumping it. I've tried both vacuuming out "dry" sediment and constantly adding more water to the sediment. My sediment chunks are frickin huge. When I tried to vacuum them up dry they instantly clogged the end of my garden hose so I'd have to clear the end non stop. Adding water helped to kind of thin the mix I was sucking out. But I did have to go dump many buckets of water. I do this for about an hour and it's not fun. When I'm done I end up with a five gallon bucket over half full of this white seashell crap! I really hope a wide open valve like this will prevent me from having to do my process again!
I love watching your tutorials, they've helped me so much. You've got the attitude that lets people know that you know what you're doing. Have a great New Year and thank you so much.
Thank you! Happy new year to you as well!
Great video. You really went into detail on all the things to consider, and I feel confident doing this on my own water heater now.
You can do it!
Agree. Truly confident with instructions.
great tutorial! been meaning to change out the little valve on my unit for awhile now lol
So helpful and detailed. Little humor with the shower shot! Thanks much.
Great video!! Just did mine and the way you walked through it was perfect.
Great job!
Just using the tape properly makes a huge difference, I once listened to someone that said you need both and they might have been right but not if you put the tape on backwards! My connections kept leaking until I just started over with the tape properly.
100%.
Thanks for the DETAILED video. When plumbers do these videos I think they gloss over some details we lay people would not think of, i.e. the direction of the teflon tape. Some plumbers will tell you to NEVER drain water heaters...or open the pressure valve. Perhaps they want your heater to not last longer so they can sell you a new one?
Great Video.
Awesome Demonstration.
Great Idea on the end cap for Safety because you never know when the little kids will go wonder off and start playing with things around the House..
Thank you for this video.
The original spout is just trash and used the exact same setup as you without the cap.
Home depot ran out of caps for some odd reason haha.
Flushed it again with new part and a lot more sediments flushed out.
Teflon tape was the only thing I used on my threads.
No leaks.
Thanks again!
Glad it helped!
Wow! My drain valve busted yesterday and your video saved the day, thank you sir!
Thanks for your earlier response to my comment on your other vid where I mentioned installing an additional valve on the drain in case you can't fully shut it off after draining the tank. Your solution here is obviously a much more elegant one, and I like the larger valve for sure. I just think for the number of operations it will ever see and for the inexperienced homeowner, just adding a 2nd valve is simpler.
As for the tape & dope question. I don't think I've ever heard that before. Interesting. What I was taught, though, is that when you think you've put enough tape on, double it. I put a lot of tape on and have never had a leak. Cleaner technique, for sure. :)
Hi Rich - interesting strategy with the tape. I've heard that you can overdo it with teflon tape, and that the butter zone is between 4-6 wraps. But I say whatever works for you is the way you should do it. Thanks for watching!
@@AmplifyDIY Exactly. Most people do 2-3 wraps with the tape. Doubling it gives you 4-6, or what I was taught. :)
Great videos. Thanks for all the tips.
Decades ago, when I owned my own house, and I had to replace the water heater, I replaced the plumbing going to the water heater and installed globe valves on both the supply and discharge pipes, with a third valve on the down-flow side of the globe valve.
That way I could completely isolate the water heater from the house plumbing entirely and allow air into the water heater for draining. With the aid of a union so the drain valve could easily be disconnected from the water heater, I installed a drain valve and plumbed it so that the water would drain out the side of the house. That way if I needed to replace the water heater again I could turn off the water and immediately open the drain valve and the air valve and allow it to drain. This setup also enabled me to periodically open the drain valve at will to flush out any sediment before it had a chance to build up any troublesome amount in the tank.
I also bought several sacrificial rods and stored them next to the water heater and replaced the rod every few years just to insure that it was always in good enough condition to protect the tank from electrolysis.
I’m a fan of the Rheem AP12231C-1 part which is a single piece version of what you built (w/o the cap)
Excellent video!!! Love it. Thank you for being super clear, right to the point, and your video production is top notch!
Thank you for the feedback, and I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Really awesome video!! I pretty much made up a rig similar to this for my water heater today.. We've been on fire hydrant bypass water while the main line was being cleaned and lined.. The water the last few weeks has been smelling/tasting a bit metallic and gross.. So I was wanting to drain it out (never have done it) and got a bit worried when I heard the plastic ones can break. Had a smallish leak out of it last night so thought I should prolly upgrade to a full gate valve. The cap is a most excellent touch, the old valve had never been touch and was coated in dust and cat hair. Great video again!! Oh for what it's worth I took your advice with the both teflon and joint compound.. Not something I want to be tinkering with in my lifetime of the house..
Nice! Glad you were able to replace yours - and yeah, you can't go wrong with both teflon and pipe dope. Thanks for watching!
Although the tape and joint pipe dope is a good idea, the compound will get pushed out of the way with the treads tightening instead of sealing the threads. It may be necessary to dope up the female threads as well, not just the male ends. I would like to drain my tank when the women are away for a day or two, and knowing it is a plumbing project, if more than 1 thing can screw up the smooth flow of the project, more than likely it could be 5 things. Ain't plumbing a fine trick on a weekend?? Bob
After installing the new valve with a larger orifice...I think it would have been a good idea to partially fill, agitate and drain the tank again to ensure any remaining sediment that couldn't fit through the smaller factory valve is flushed.
Great idea, mbcris. Thanks!
I went with the 4 inch nipple and it was a perfect fit! Thanks for the help!
P.S Manufacturer recommends just teflon tape 👍👍👍
Thank you for your quick respond and I am at work today through mid night and I will send you pictures tomorrow.
Thanks again
Habib
Don't forget to make sure that when you open the ball valve the handle points outward. Check it before you assemble everything or you'll have to take it all apart and start over.
Great tip!
Teflon tape: Hint: 𝑨𝒍𝒘𝒂𝒚𝒔 hold the tape with your left hand and turn the pipe with your right hand. It's easier to roll the pipe away from you and that happens to be clockwise. If you switch off between left or right randomly, you'll lay the Teflon backwards sometimes and wonder why it leaks.
Good tip, thank you!
Probably a good idea to use both. I have used just tape on some fairly high pressure applications with no problems, but with water, if it can possibly leak, by golly, it will
Hello, first of all thank you for your helpful videw and I appreciated. Do you have any videw or instruction of replacing Reducer Valve? I am planning to replace the expansion tank and reducer valve at the same time.
I once went to a Loctite seminar. They explained that teflon tape only lubricates the threads so you can get the joint tighter. Pipe sealant actually seals the threads. They also explained to not use tape on hydraulic or fuel systems because a piece can get loose and go where you don't want it to go. Lastly, as a mechanic on hydraulic systems sometimes we needed something to point a certain way, and that may be a half turn from fully tight. In that case the sealant still sealed everything. Just my two cents.
Thank you for the tips, oldrustycars!
I bought all the parts to do this on my 5 year old rheem water heater. New valve is assembled. Just have to find time this weekend to put it in
Good idea
thats the right way to install the valve! I wanted to do the same on mine when I installed a NEW water heater, except the original valve is plastic and wouldn't budge! so I left it... 7 years later, and I just had to replace the heating elements.... now to try to upgrade the drain!
I hate those flimsy little plastic valves! Best of luck getting yours upgraded!
Excellent explanation, thank you. Our water heater has a nylon drain valve, in the attempt to remove it using a pipe wrench we can move the water heater.
Suggestion: Turn off the background music, keep in mind we came to hear you not fight the music. It is beyond me why UA-cam creators while they are talking think it is important playing music. At your next business meeting when the speaker begins talking turn up music to about the volumn of their voice, notice the reaction of the attendees; not good. Many folks have hearing difficulties thus background music quickly becomes extremely annoying and distracting.
Hi Ric: thanks for the feedback regarding the background music. I'll keep that in mind in my future videos. Thanks for watching!
We have hard water where i live so doing regular maintenance on water heater is a must. Replaced the crappy small bore drain with 3/4" and it's made all the difference. Easy to flush the scale out now....before the scale used to clog the drain and take over an hour to drain....plus it wouldn't flush the scale out anyway. You must do this if u want to keep ur heater running longer and saving some money
Quick note, keeping it all 3/4". Drain and clean out prior to install. I insert a clear poly pvc tubing attached to wet/dry vac and insert tubing into sump of tank to suck out crud. Add additional water to mix up, and repeat until you don't see/hear any more calcium. Install new parts being 3/4" quarter turn ball valve with a male hose end with a metal hose cap.
Can you explain? Is the tubing so it makes a seal when adding water?
I think the tubing he's referring to is used to attempt to vacuum out the sediment at the bottom of the tank prior to installing the new drain valve. I personally would prefer to flush the tank the right way either right before or right after installing a 3/4" drain valve... It's just too difficult to reach all around the bottom of your tank with a hose through that little drain hole.
Someone else mentioned this to me in Home Depot. But I didn't ask how they did it.it may be faster. I have the plastic valve that would continuously clogged. I would have to blow into my drain hose to unblock it. (Tip for ya all...)
I was curious how sticking these hose in might work because it would have to be a little bit smaller and had assumed that he was stirring up, and sucking out the sediment. But maybe you are right that he was sticking in the tank trying to suck out the wet settlement.
all I know is that with the plastic valve it really was hard to get anyting out because each time I would flush it would instantly get blocked and I would have to blow back into the hose to knock it out. When things looked clean I would flush again and a chunk would get caught.
I do believe this little change would put many water heater sales out of business and that's why they put in such a bad valve to start.
Back when I installed this tank 10 years ago I had read about changing them and just didn't take the advice.
my biggest concern now is whether or not the plastic valve will come out in one piece as many say they will break.
however prior to this, about a week ago I had flush the tank and then soaked 4 gallons of 6% vinegar in the bottom hoping that would help. maybe it will help the valve come out but for the chunks of what I assume is magnesium the vinegar wasn't doing much.
I do have lime in the water but these trunks didn't seem to react in straight vinegar so I'm not sure if it's calcium or magnesium or just that the vinegar got neutralized after 6 hours.
@@Thatsmessedupman The inside bottom of the tank is like a pyramid, round dome. The water drain valve sits above the bottom of the tank, several inches up. No way to fully drain out unless if you tip it over on its side. So, yes attach a clear flexible poly vinyl tubing( the diameter a little smaller then opening of 3/4 ball valve) to a wet/dry vac. I, initially drain and flush, and drain and flush. Then insert tubing, slowly turn on inlet water to stir up bottom crud, and turn on vac. Notice all the crud coming out through the clear vinyl tube. Not difficult at all, move it around, bend it up and down, it flexes. I do this, fill and suck about 5 times until water is free and clear. Need to replace the plastic cheap drain valve with an all brass 3/4 ball valve attached to a 3/4 brass nipple, with a 3/4 male pipe nipple to a male hose end.
@@AmplifyDIY Not difficult, apparently you haven't tried.
Great video. I've read some guides recommending a dielectric nipple to avoid corrosion. But it looks like the one you removed wasn't plastic coated (dielectric).
I am a Certified Tech teacher in Electrical / Mechanical Technology. Very nice video - in fact it is excellent! I hope you have that electrical circuit protected - with a ground fault interrupter commonly called a GFI as it is near the water faucet!
Hi RQ DQ! Yes, I absolutely - every single outlet in my garage is GFCI. Thanks for watching!
My 2021 Taco only required 3 connections to vehicle, all on left side of steering colum. Colum did not need to come apart. 2 phillips screws, 1 ten mm bolt is all that needed to be removed. Very simple. There are different videos with varying steps with differing locations and even stripping wires.
Tape for installing faucets -- 1/2" and 3/8", for convenience and neatness. Dope for running supply lines 1/2" and up. If you want to put tape on 3/4" pipe, it needs to be thicker tape.
Did this today! My factory valve was gummed up with sediment. The flow after was awesome
Fantastic, Joseph! I'm glad it worked well for you!
Thanks for this great video. I just replaced t&p valve and the drain valve following your videos. Great info so thanks!
Nice job getting it done!
Thank you very much for your video. It helped me fix the leaking problem in the drain valve. I found the SKU exactly in the Home Depot.
Excellent! I'm so glad to hear it helped. Thanks for watching!
As a master plumber in florida for 30 yrs I use the tape and dupe all the time. NO CALL BACKS
I would also suggest turning “off” the water heater instead of going to the pilot setting to protect the heating mechanism from burning out because there is no water in the tank. I also like using the tape and the pipe dope together as is is a “belt and suspenders” approach to prevent leaks and the pipe dope as a lubricant to protect the tape from ripping on the pipe threads. Good video!
Thanks, Bill! I prefer to just go to the pilot setting as re-lighting the pilot light can sometimes be a challenge, and I don't see much danger in letting the pilot stay lit. It won't provide enough heat to cause concern for the tank integrity. Thanks for watching!
Nice touch on taking a shower nice job on the video 😃
This is excellent and addresses a recurring problem for us.
The purpose of the Teflon tape is not really to seal the joint, but to lubricate the insertion of the threads. You only use tape on a tapered joint where the farther the pipe turns, the closer the threads engage each other. The seal is accomplished by the tapered contact of the two surfaces... the tape lubricates the two surfaces which allows them to turn into each other closer.. Never think of the tape as sealing anything. The paste is for gluing the pipe surfaces together. There are two kinds of paste where one dries and the other stays fluid. the fluid one will usually contain Teflon in it which again allows the surfaces to tighten closer and thus seal... The drying kind literally seals the gaps in pipes that are rougher and keeps them from unscrewing with vibration or pressure applied. Tubing sealed with tape has a risk of unscrewing and this must be taken into account if you choose to apply it.
Just a little stuff to keep in mind on tape vs paste...
Stan
It looks to me like you got it exactly backwards. Decades ago when I was a kid, I worked with my dad and plumbers for a summer. There was no such thing as Teflon tape. We did a lot of galvanized pipe. The plumber told me that pipe dope does not seal anything, it is too much like grease and just gets washed out. What it does is act as a lubricant, like grease, so you can tighten the pipe tighter and feel it while you are doing it. Teflon is regarded as "slippery", but I've never heard of it being a lubricant in tape form. When you disassemble an old joint, you can see how it gets cut up and forms strings. It would seem to me those strings are filling in the gaps between the threads, helping to seal it. I suspect the answer is: If it don't leak, that's all that matters.
I enjoy the presentation very clear and complete. Thank you.
I have built one similar to yours for my water heater a few years ago.
If a child decide to turn the the ball valve, that COULD be a problem IMO. By the way I have just installed your great idea an hour ago 36 buckaroos total parts and subscribed too THANKS
Exactly one of the reasons I added the extra cap.
You could remove the handle.
Kids have a way of getting into stuff.
Rolando Galvez could also just purchase a ball valve with a locking handle.
I wonder if the smaller diameter was on purpose to create a higher exit velocity that may remove more debris from the bottom. If rivers are an analogy, Fast water erodes, Slow water deposits. Here with sediments we would be wanting erosion. I'm sure the difference would be negligible, perhaps even just theoretical, and the important thing is that you flush the tank annually.
Hi Don - interesting thought, but remember that the increase in velocity only happens at the restriction - i.e., the speed of the water across the bottom of the tank will not increase at all... it only speeds up right at the exit, which won't help clear the sediment off the bottom of the tank at all. I'm convinced manufacturers only put in these really small valves as a cost-saving measure. Thanks for watching!