Ok, I did it the Woggers Way today!! I'm a 6.5-7 on a DIY scale of 1-10 and have no idea what I was nervous about. One call to Rheem, they sent me a brass valve replacement for free. I had everyone telling me that I needed to shut off the water heater and water supply, give it about 2 hours to cool down, then because my drain valve was not able to open while ALSO having a hose attached (It was the plastic Rheem Professional valve) that I was going to have to use a dryer vent and circulate 5 gallon buckets, etc etc. Basically a process that might have taken two people, plus the time to refill and reheat 50 gallons of water after I was done. I was thinking this was going to be a huge pain. Woggers Way: water shut off, pressure valve released for 3 seconds, hulked the old one off, had the new one ready to go. Had about 2 oz of water come out and the new one was baby hulked back on and was ready to go. Total time 5 minutes. A 3 hour process with 50 gallons of wasted water turned into a 5 minute process with zero waste. Amazing. Thank you Sir! Liked and subscribed! 😂
Now that's what I like to hear. That gives you 2 hrs 55 min left over to watch more of my videos. lol (Love the Baby Hulked comment). Good luck with your projects.
Ok so I was giving this about a 30 percent chance of working and a 70 percent chance I was about to flood my laundry room. Since the valve that was on my water heater looked like it had then through a lot in its lifetime there wasn’t really a way to hook a water hose up to it. Naturally mine has the old school gate valve that I wasn’t sure if it completely shut off. So I went outside and turned it off at the meter. Figuring the plastic valve was going to break I applied gentle pressure until it finally broke loose. I reluctantly unscrewed it and all of about a half ounce of water came out. I popped the new metal one in and back up and running in just a few minutes. Ive found over the years that all you need to be a successful plumber is a tank full of gas and a pocket full of money and eventually you can make it work somewhat like it supposed to. Thanks for the video bro you made this super easy.
Thank you my friend just did it today November 1, 2023 thought I had to replace the whole tank. It was two years out of warranty from whirlpool lol and then you came along…. Thank you very much.!
Oh yes indeed, the "Woggers Way" does work! Everything went smoothly with this procedure. I did have a devil of a time torquing off the old drain valve - it just did not want to turn, but finally I was able to get enough torque on it and thread it off!
Oh the frustration when it doesn't want to come off, but the joy when it finally does. Thanks for watching and your comments. Good luck with your projects.
Works like a charm. Being a maintenance mechanic by trade, I'm surprised I never thought of this before. Looked at the old valve when I took it out and you can see the o-ring inside is damaged. I wanted to add a photo, but I don't know how. Excellent video.
Thanks. I thought the same thing when I learned this years ago.. how did I not think of this before. Glad it helped you. Thanks for watching and good luck with all your projects.
Thank you very much for your video I was watching other videos and everyone said to take out all the water but suddenly this video came out and I changed the whole plan much better save a lot of time and money thank you for sharing those secrets🙏🏼
Very informative. It walks u thru the whole process so u do it correctly. I need to do this also but 23 y o so I’m just going to replace the whole thing but I’ll install a better drain valve in the new one. The plastic one leaks behind the knob when opening it n noone has a simple fix so I got me a nice brass one !!
23 years out of a water heater... that's awesome. Upgrading the valve upon installation is the way to go. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching
Alternate suggestion for reusing the flange (without cutting it): Duct-tape it into place before removing the valve, I.e. so that the flange doesn’t come off while you’re frantically busy putting the new valve into place.
Why do these things have to happen in the middle of the night? In Houston, most of our water heaters are in the attic....can you see where I am going.... Thank you for this video ... saved me time and stress I just cut the water off on the heater 3:15AM till I could get to Home Depot at 6. I was brand new by 7AM.... Thanks again ! Woggers Way is the only Way!😁
I say the same thing here... I always seem to get a call8 pm on a Saturday or sometime on Sunday. it can never happen at 9am on a Tuesday. Same with smoke detectors.. they always start chirping at 2am and it's always the unit in your bedroom. Glad you were able to fix it ... being in the attic I hope you didn't experience much water damage. Dumb place to put a water heater. Here they're mostly in the garage which is much better. thank you for watching and for the nice compliment.
@@thewoggerswaydiy Not much water damage we’ve gotten real good with slapping that big fan on drywall and get dry fast. Nothing worse than thinking - this wall is fine - put your finger to nail a picture and your finger goes right through… uh, think we missed this one? Lessons still being taught ! Thanks for your great video !
I did this with a bottom element one time.... It ended up being freaking Sandhog! Wish i would have known beforehand.... But, this method he's doing is a really common way to do it...
I've personally never tried this with a bottom heating element on an electric unit, but I know guys that have. Same process and as long as you get that vacuum you should be good to go. Thanks for watching.
Nice video on a heater issue that comes up very often in the plumbing world! A couple of small things that I have learned over the years that I hope will help add value to your process...It is not necessary to pipe off the T&P valve during this process. Better yet, it's not good to open and close an older T&P valve period. Just put a full-size towel under the drain valve and open it slowly to create your vacuum. As you mention in your video, you only lose a pint or so of water. If there is an expansion tank on the heater, then use a hose on the drain valve and pipe it into a bucket. It's not a gravity drain off as you are just releasing the pressure in the system to create your vacuum. Loosen your drain valve by using channel lock pliers the "correct way" (you were using them backwards in your video! ;). One last thing, the drain valve you used as a replacement IMO is as bad as the plastic valve you replaced. Spend an extra $5 and buy the water heater drain valve that is a "ball valve" style. They now come stock with the wholesale Rheem heaters. The heater you were working on early in your video came from the retail heaters sold at HD which have the plastic drain valve. Heaters need to be flushed once or twice a year depending on your water, so I suggest getting a drain valve that will last and work properly for the life of the heater. What you have shown can be completed in less than 30 minutes which is a great savings of time for the homeowner and the plumber. Thanks for making this informative video!
Thanks for your input. Normally I like to "upgrade" the drain valves by inserting a 3/4" brass nipple with a full port ball valve and a hose adapter on the end, which gives a nice large opening to make flushing and draining a lot faster and easier, plus if there's any sediment it won't clog up like those other drain valves. This was in a rental and the homeowner wouldn't pay the extra for the "upgrade" on a 7 yr old water heater, so they get the "budget" valve. Good luck with your projects.
Sitting here watching DIY plumbing videos while my water heater drains so that I can replace the valve… watch this video, and D’OH that makes perfect sense, but my heater is over half empty already, so I don’t think your trick will work now. If only I had subscribed to your channel a year ago and seen this _before_ I started. But I’ll know for next time 😉 As an aside, a plumber told me that I should replace the whole water heater not just replace the valve, he claimed that the tank itself will start leaking soon, his logic was that, because I had installed the water heater in 1988, it it now out of its warranty and won’t last much longer. I figure it’s lasted this long, I may as well keep maintaining it however much longer it does last, I drain it every year, and replace the anode rod every 4 years, beyond that it’s not much effort to maintain.
1988? 36 years.. that water heater needs to go to the Smithsonian. lol I agree with you, that if it's not broke, don't fix it, although with a water heater it will eventually leak, if something else doesn't go wrong with it first. With that said, if the water heater is located in an area where leaking won't cause any damage to anything, or if you have a spill pan under it so when it leaks the water is directed to a safe location, then run it as long as you can. However, if it leaks and it will result in damages from the water, then a proactive approach to replace it is best. If you haven't seen my video about spill pans and why they are important, please give it a watch. There's a link to it at the end of this video, or here's the link: ua-cam.com/video/jf-9I3G02tY/v-deo.html In the mean time, do periodic flushes and change out the anode rod every 2-3 years and hopefully you can keep that water heater funning another 36 years. Thanks for watching, and good luck with all your projects.
@@thewoggerswaydiy thanks for the advice! My water heater is in the basement right next to a floor drain, so I’m not worried about a leak. As far as replacing my drain valve, I’m really glad I drained the tank first, because it was a plastic valve, factory installed without Teflon tape (I think they used pipe dope, but maybe not even that), and I snapped the valve as I was struggling to remove it. I had to borrow a huge vice grip pliers from a buddy to get the remaining part of the valve out of the tank, I would have had water going everywhere if I hadn’t already drained it. But I still like your technique, just wasn’t right for this particular circumstance. My suggestion for anyone trying to swap a valve without draining the tank would be to stop and drain *if* you are having trouble removing a plastic valve, you don’t want a broken off valve with a full tank.
Do you have a GAS water heater and if so, did shut off the gas to the heater first before shutting off the water and the relieving pressure? Then re-light after turning the water back on?
Thank you for the great video. I have the same hot water tank (first have of video) and it was an easy fix. i would like to add another pro to your list. Saving cost on water bill. The city i live in has one of the highest costs for water in Michigan. So filling up 50 gallons of water saved me probably 20 bucks. Thanks again😀😀
Saving money is always a good thing.. saving water is always good also. Like here in Vegas where they regulate when you can water your landscaping and pay you to remove grass, that 50 gal could have watered your yard for a month. Thanks for watching
Great Video , you can do that with gas valves and T&P as well , Standard procedure for me never touch a gate valve I shut off at the street those things are garbage! Also you can break pressure at a hot fixture . prevents the t&P will leak forever.
Gave me the courage to take off my plastic one, which is like yours only gray. I was scared to do it after watching some other videos where they had the plastic angled ones and they were stuck in there good, maybe they fused them in at the factory? Thanks!
@@thewoggerswaydiy Yeah thanks! The new full bore ball valve blasted some white chunks out like a fire hydrant, even though the water heater is only a few years old. One downside is that the long brass valve conducts a lot of heat so I insulated it and removed the handle, which I attached with a removable cable tie. I'll try to flush 1 gal of water every month or so.
that is not necessary, since you should only see about 1/4 to 1/2 cup of water come out if you do it successfully. Good luck with your project and let me know how it goes
You should be able to use any 3/4" mpt fitting.. In 15 yrs I've never come across one that wasn't. On new installs I normally install a nipple with a full port valve. Good luck and thanks for watching.
This is a very good video. I just did a similar job. I had cold water shut off>bad domestic expansion tank> gas water heater then the hot water going up. But i was replacing the the st 5 and tp valve. . I was mad nervous to create a vacuum to press in (i use a press tool) a ball valve to the hw going upstairs. But it went smooth. But id rather drop pressure at the drain than the tp valve unless im gonna replace it. But you explained a step every one else misses. Its great what a vacuum can do!
Same here about the TPR valve.. I don't like "disturbing" them if at all possible or you may end up having to change it out. That's why I added at the end about using the faucet to create the vacuum, or vapor lock as some like to refer. Glad your job worked out and appreciate the comment and support.
@@thewoggerswaydiy and I just replaced a drain on a boiler today the same way! But today when I went to put in the valve for the hot water going up (this was for a tankless coil) I had to drop the pressure at a faucet, I made sure to use one that had 2 separate handles. But when I cut into the pipe, it was coming out pretty fast this time. Lol I did notice one of their faucets leaking later, perhaps it didn't great a good vacuum.
I good full port ball valve is the way to go. Unfortunately many clients don't want to pay the slight extra to install them, especially on rental properties, which is a large part of our business. Thanks for watching and your input.
This was a new valve, as shown at 2:02.. normally we install a full port valve but client didn't want to pay for it since it was in a rental and wanted the least cost as possible. Thanks for watching.
Does this still apply if you have a 2 gallon expansion tank attached to the Cold water in line. I have this tank on my electric water heater. As you know this is the bladder type tank that is pressurized on one side. Hope you get back to me. I would love to try doing the drain valve on mine your way. Thanks!
It should, although I have never tried it on a system with an expansion tank. Others have told me they've done it successfully. If the tank is pressurized properly (to match your incoming water pressure) then there shouldn't be any water in it to put pressure on the system, and you should be fine. If your water heater is located in an area where leaking could cause damage you may want to drain it first, as a precaution. Good luck with your project and comment on how it went.
I had a gas water heater a few years ago that had a leaking plastic drain valve that was leaking, but this valve looked like an out door valve where you would hook up your garden hose. My water is so bad that I have to change my anode rod every year.I got the plastic valve out easily and replaced it with a brass ball valve. In 2023 I replaced replaced my water heater with a A.O.Smith 60 gallon electric heater. It came with the cheapest plastic valve that started leaking two weeks after installation. A O Smith recommends flushing the tank and checking the anode rod after six months. I emptied the tank and attempted to replace the the plastic valve that immediately snapped all the way inside the tank. I was told breakage is not covered under warranty. I thought yhe plastic valve was glued in and that is why it broke but they said it was threaded in. So I had to buy a new water heater after having the other one only six months. The new one is a different model but basically the same design. After ten months I had no hot water and the breaker keeps tripping. I called AO and was told the parts were under warranty but not the labor. It was the heating element that was bad and being on a weekend I had to do the job myself. Bottom line is the tank would not drain from the drain valve and the anode rod even with a long extension on the socket handle and a tank full of water it would not budge. I replaced both heating elements and now have hot water. I am planning to get a friend with a impact wrench to loosen the anode rod so I can replace it,but my problem is the drain valve. I have already broke one snd afraid to repeat the same mistake.I cannot afford to buy a new water heater every year. Sorry for the long post. Lesson learned? Never buy a A O Smith water heater.
Very unusual for AO Smith.. their water heaters are usually quite good. The problem is, Lowes now sells AO Smith branded water heaters, but they are the "big box variety", which means they are dumbed-down with cheaper parts to keep the price low for Lowes. The AO Smith units I purchase through my plumbing supplier are a much better build quality. Although I now mostly install Bradford White exclusively, it has nothing to do with the quality of the AO Smith units. It's just that I can buy the Bradford White at the same or better price through one of my suppliers than I can get the AO Smith. And if the price if comparable, I'll go with a Bradford White. rule of thumb is replace the drain valve with a full port valve at the time of initial installation and then you won't have to worry about it later on. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching.
if you try the quick method w/o draining and you are removing a plastic drain valve it may break off during removal and it could take 30 mins to one hour to get the threaded plastic pipe removed from the water heater
If the valve breaks off during the "quick" method, it'll still break off when removing even after draining the tank. That's why we don't use the big box heaters.. they're "dumbed down" to make them cheaper. We only use the better grade of heaters from our plumbing suppliers. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Hey my brother replaced the plastic drain valve on the water heater without draining it and it didn't break. It was kind of bitter sweet though because he left the the shower on with the drain plug closed before doing this and the bath tub overflowed with a lot water on the bathroom floor. What a mess! He was trying to used up the hot water just in case the plastic valve broke on the water heater.
Well that sucks. He kind of defeated the purpose though by using up water that he could have just drained direct from the water heater.. Lesson learned I guess. thanks for watching.
Hey is there any chance you could tell me what the overall length is of the plastic valves you removed? Mine looks to be that exact one and it is in front of a utility closet where a door closes in front of it. So I want to make certain the new valve fits.
That's a heavily debated question. Some plumbers say it doesn't make a difference, some say flushing it will extend the life of a water heater. I'm from the school that flushing it, especially if you're in an area with high mineral content in your water, like we are here in Vegas, is a good practice. I've cut open numerous water heaters and have seen the extensive amount of sediment build up in the bottom of the tanks, and there's no way you can convince me that it doesn't contribute to your water heater working harder and not as efficient, plus you know all that crud is contributing to the decay of the tank. Flushing your tank once a year and making sure to replace your anode rod every few years will go a long way in getting more life of your water heater. Thanks for watching and good luck with all your projects.
Why isn't your TPR valve connected to a drain? It should go to a floor drain with an air gap or to a exterior discharge. If yours doesn't for some reason, then for safety sake you can use a faucet to create the vacuum instead. Thanks for watching
Factoring in Murphy's Law, it might be prudent to shut the water heater off, or put it on Vacation Mode overnight to lower the temperature of the water. And I wonder, in the case that you don't use the TPR valve to release pressure, would the distance of the faucet you open change the length of time you need to leave it open?
First, you shouldn't have your water heater turned up so far where it would scald you, buuuuut, if you do, then definitely wear gloves as mentioned in the video, or let it cool down first. And no, faucet or TPR, doesn't matter the length of open time. Thanks for hte comments and for watching.
My plastic drain valve leaks behind the big knob after opening to drain the tank. Stops when tightened. So my question is do u know why/ what is the deal ? The problem is with the knob not the thing coming out( unscrewing)
That is the one issue that could ruin your day, but that is why I say to be prepared with the vent pipe so you can hold it over the hole in such an event to catch the draining water. Of course if you suspect that the valve is compromised and breaking off could be an issue, then if possible drain the water heater first. Once it's drained now you have to deal with the broken off threads. Sorry to say there is no easy way to get them out. If the opening is wide enough you can stick a hacksaw blade in there and cut through the plastic in several locations, being careful not to cut into the metal threads of the water heater. Then use a small head flat screwdriver and start prying all the pieces out. You can try a broken nipple extractor first, but chances are that if it broke off in the first place, the threads are pretty corroded onto the water heater and this method may prove futile. Once you have all the plastic pieces out clean out the threads with a wire pipe brush and install your new valve. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching.
Really helpful video, but a possibly dumb question: How sure are we that the thread-size on a store-bought valve is “absolutely sure” to be the right size and will fit? For example, some other videos have suggested removing the old valve and taking it with you to the hardware store just to ensure that it’s right. The reason I ask is if you use the technique shown in the video (I.e. not draining the tank) and it turns out the threads on the new valve _don’t_ fit, then you could be in real trouble. ;-)
I have never seen a water heater not take a 3/4" MPT threaded valve or nipple her in the US. Is it possible? Anything is possible. Of course you could always just stick the old on back in and go the draining route.
Question - for a GAS water heater, before shutting off the water, should the gas be completely turned off at the heater and then re-lit after completing this procedure?
It's a good idea, but not necessary if you can change it out quickly as in the video. Just wear protective gloves since the water will be hot whether or not you shut off the gas (unless it's been sitting for quite some time since you shut off the gas). Good luck with your project.
@@thewoggerswaydiy- WOGGER RULES!!! It went beautifully! I am seeing water draining out with the new brass valve, which is very encouraging since I was concerned that there was substantial mineral buildup at the bottom of the tank such that water would not drain out through the valve. Question: do you have a video on removing and replacing the ANODE ROD? All the work I am doing is on a 2007 GE "Smart Water, Smart Shield" gas water heater. For the rod is it necessary to turn off the gas? I have a breaker bar and if necessary will slide a pipe over that bar to generate the torque to loosen and remove the hex nut on the current rod.
@@jgehbinv I currently do not have a video on replacing the anode rod, but it's on my list. You don't need to turn off the gas, but you should turn off the burner while you change out the anode rod. Get that cheater pipe ready, because you'll probably need it. Glad the process for the drain valve went well.
is the pressure issue throughout the house or only at certain fixtures? If only at certain fixtures you may just have sediment buildup in the fixture or clogging up the aerator. Replace the aerator and see if that cures the issue. If it's a whole house issue then simply replacing the drain valve won't cause low water pressure and you have another issue, that just happened to materialize at the same time you changed the valve. Could be a poor pressure reducing valve for one cause.
I was completely terrified because my water heater never quite stopped dripping, but this totally worked! I cranked very softly in small increments so I didn't accidently rip the PLASTIC drain off, but everything went really smoothly once I got it off and the new one in the hole. THANK YOU!
The nice thing about the PRV is that it's at the top of the water heater, unlike the drain which is at the bottom. So, just shut off the water to the heater, drain a very small amount of water and then change it out. Easy Peasy!
I followed your directions, turned off water, released valve for more than a few seconds because it was leaking some water, then closed valve, then unscrew drain valve until it shot like a bullet somewhere in the room. Have not found it but scared me. Some water came out and I quickly put new one in. Why was there still so much pressure?
Only thing I can think of, is if you used the TPR valve to relieve the pressure, the TPR valve may be defective, or stuck, and didn't open to relieve the pressure.
One more reason for trying to avoid draining the tank: If, like me, the hot water heater is in the basement, there’s no drain in the basement, and the only route for an attached hose is higher than the top of the water heater. Consequently, completely draining the tank involves toting the (50 gals or so of) water out of the basement one bucket at a time.
I' surprised that a house built for a water heater positioned in the basement doesn't have a drain. In that case, if you don't want to haul buckets of water upstairs, just drain it into a 5 gal bucket and have a pump set up to transfer the water from the bucket to the outside.
@@dumbcow1 : But again, the question is how do you create a siphon when the source of the water (i.e. the drain on the hotwater heater) is _below_ any intended destination of the water?
I charge extra for my "skill". lol. No, it's cheaper if we spend less time. Although, we do quote the job for a full drain, just in case there's any issues and we have to drain it, but if all goes well and we can swap it out without draining the unit, then we reduce the charge for time spent. Thanks for the question and good luck with your projects.
@thewoggerswaydiy lol, just giving you a hard time. I have a leaking valve that I might give your way a try, maybe. It's on an older tank, 2007, with a leaking plastic valve. I had a plumbing inspection yesterday, and I believe he was a little hard on the valve. I got it to stop leaking, but I do need to replace it. Have a good day sir.
Think about the risk you're taking, Think about the new apprentice Or inexperienced home owner that's going to attempt this and get his hand burnt, Break off the plastic drain in a customer's house. Always drain the water heater first. Cutting corners will cause accidents.
Been doing this for 20 yrs with only one time I had to place the drain pipe over the hole, but when the unit is inside a house I agree you should drain it first to avoid any possibility of an accident. Here in LV I've only encountered 2 times a water heater was inside a house. One was a "remodel" where owner put it in a bedroom, which is a code violation and the other was a house from the 50's where it was in a closet in the kitchen. Different parts of the country may be different, but here you'll typically find them in the garage or an outside patio/balcony. Still, as mentioned in the video, you should always have the drain pipe handy and ready to go just in case. Always wear gloves but if you're burning your hand you have the thermostat set too high. No reason to have it set where it will scald you. That just wastes money trying to keep it at an unusually high temp and promotes scalding issues at faucets, etc. Thanks for watching and for your comments. This is how people learn. Good luck with your projects.
All is good unless the plastic valve break when you are removing it. Then you're stuck with a full water heater and a broken valve you have to remove piece by piece.
Yes, that happens occasionally. That's why I mention to have a tube on hand to place over the opening to direct the draining water in the tank out to a "safe" area. Thanks for watching
When done right, there should only be a very small amount of water that comes out, and placing a towel down will absorb it. Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects.
I did this, a little scary cause as soon as the old valve came out it blew off and water and air exploded all over my face and my body .. Luckily it wasn't super hot. I released the air with the TPR valve, so I'm not sure what I did wrong. But the jobs done. 😅
Glad you're ok.. It's possible that either your TPR is stuck and not opening to create the vacuum, or your shut off valve to the water heater isn't fully closing... a common problem if you have a gate valve as opposed to a ball valve. Glad you were able to get it done and you are ok. Thanks for watching.
That plastic drain valve will probably break when trying to take it off and water will be everywhere don't you think? So shouldn't you just drain the tank first?
If you feel the plastic valve is compromised or is so corroded there may be the chance of it breaking then you should drain the tank. This is why in the video I mention having the drain pipe on hand just in case, that way you can avoid a mishap. thanks for watching.
That pressure relief valve you have draining outside is not code where I live. It must terminate no less than 6 inches from the floor. Reason being that if it actually self actuates, it means pressure inside the tank is too great and could be catastrophic if not corrected. So draining on the floor gives the home owner an indication that something is wrong. Otherwise, you'd never know.
Yean, every where is different. Here it's not only permissible to have our PRV drain outside, but it's pretty much all you see here in Vegas. If it drains outside it has to terminate no more than 6" above the ground, so a unit on the 2nd floor cannot just terminate outside on the 2nd floor, otherwise someone down below gets a very hot and unwanted shower. it can also terminate at a floor drain, but we don't seem to have those here. I've seen some people terminate it into the spill pan under the water heater but that's not to code here. Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects.
If it's dripping from the valve where you would connect a drain hose it's an indication the seals in the valve have deteriorated or got corrosion in there. If it's leaking from around the valve, where it screws into the tank, then you have a sealing issue in the threads or the valve is damaged. Either way, replacing the drain valve, making sure to properly seal the threads with Teflon tape or joint compound should cure your issue. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching.
The valve used in this video was by Everbilt, model# EB12112G through The Home Depot. Sells for just under $10. Yes, drain valves are "universal", in that they are 3/4" MPT (male pipe thread). Good luck with your project.
@@thewoggerswaydiy Thank you for the helpful video and quick response. I have noticed that drains or anything threaded parts made out of plastic was the frequent issue in other applications around the house in general. My personal favorite is when they use " it's made out of the same substance that NASA uses " as to make us believe that it is super strong 😂.
There's nothing to fear but fear itself... and maybe a flooded house... oh yeah, and bears.. bears can be pretty scary. If you're not confident then always play it safe and drain the tank. Especially if your unit is quite old or if you see a lot of corrosion around the valve. Thanks for watching and drop us a comment on which route you took and how it went.
@@thewoggerswaydiy haha it's 10-11yrs old. It's in the garage so I'm not worried about a flooded home. I'm worried about having to replace the WH if I break the plastic drain.
Not a problem.. if the plastic drain valve breaks off you can still remove the remnants. I don't have a video on that yet, but here's a link to on that will show you how to do it. Good luck with your projects. ua-cam.com/video/4m1KxuHewHY/v-deo.htmlsi=PzstrCC50zinYPHj
If your adding a new drain valve to drain the tank why not just drain the tank first. If I try to remove a plastic drain valve in an older tank and it cracks or snaps off, I'm screwed. Now I have 50 gallons of hot water going everywhere. Also, I replaced my drain valve with a 3/4" full port ball valve. Now the sediment cant clog the valve like it did in the original valve's pea size hole causing it to take 10 hours for the tank to drain.
Thanks for the comment. The valve isn't always being replaced just to drain the tank. Like in the video, they're being changed because they are leaking and need to be replaced, but don't want to waste 40-50 gallons of water. Yes, if you break one off without draining the tank water will gush out, but that's why I mention to have a pipe on hand to hold over the drain port hole to catch and divert the water. I use a 3" or 4" semi rigid vent pipe and have it set up just in case. And yes, replacing the crappy original valves with a 3/4" full port valve ball valve is the way to go. I didn't do it in this video because these were rental properties and the homeowners didn't want to spend the extra money. Of course they end up paying for the added labor time in the future when the crappy one is clogged and it takes us longer to drain the tank. lol Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects.
Understandable. The first time I did this I also had concerns... just have a flexible vent pipe positioned to the outside that you can place over the opening in the event you can't get that vacuum created, but in over 13 years I've yet had this not work. Just realize some water will come out.. a few ounces.. so place a rag/towel underneath the valve to soak up any water. Good luck with your future projects.
if it's dripping from the end then yes, although that doesn't fix the issue. A better alternative, if you don't want to change out the valve, is install a shut-off adapter that screws on to the valve and has it's own shut-off lever. If it's leaking from the threads, then neither a cap nor the adapter will cure the issue and you'll need to change out the valve. Good luck with your projects and thank you for watching.
@@thewoggerswaydiy hey I figured out there was like a good half turn or turn left so I turned it until it was tight and it stopped the drip I still have a container underneath it to see if it still leaks in a day or so , and I did buy a brass hose bib cap! Is that good ?
so when the brittle plastic valve snaps off the second you go to loosen it what then? drain it the hard way, all over my laundry room.... thanks for the "hack"
If you look at the 9:00 mark, I mention how you need to have a pipe on standby to catch and direct any mishap, should it happen. If you don't take the necessary precautions to prevent any such mishaps, then you're the one creating the "hack". In all my years I've never flooded a room, garage, etc., or caused any damage, because I make sure to be prepared if things don't go as planned. Thanks for watching.
I had the tool I use to remove sprinkler heads just in case that happened. He might want to add that to his video. I thought about that last night and went out to the shed and got the tool just in case. Didn't need it, but it pays to be safe.
Mine is leaking from the front. Just had my home warrenty com0any send out a tech to replace the valve. This guy take a look for two seconds and tells me he going to put a cap on it. Little did he know im an operations super for a miliary contract and manage all the building trades. I told this guy replace the plastic crap with a metal valve. He gives me some crap about the valve breaking then he has to replace the whole tank. Needless to say i sent him packing and called the warrenty company and got square in their ass about sending idiots to my house.
Just had a subscriber email me the other day about this same scenario.. home warranty plumber just put a cap on the leaking plastic drain valve because he didn't have a replacement on the truck. Then he made the customer go to the store to purchase the cap (first, shouldn't have the customer go buy the parts.. and second if they were sending them to the store, at least have them pick up a valve instead of a cap). Long story boring, the cap was fine but the real issue was the threads on the plastic valve were actually breaking so the valve ended up shooting off and flooded the house a few days later. If the valve was just replaced as it should have, the flood would have been avoided. Now they're going through flood remediation. I have lots of issues with Home Warranty vendors which may be a video in itself one day, but goes to show, if you don't do it right you have more problems... A 10 min hack job turned into a job in the thousands of dollars and weeks of inconveniences to the homeowner.
![My Water Heater Won't Drain [Fix It With 3 Easy Steps]](/img/n.gif)
Ok, I did it the Woggers Way today!! I'm a 6.5-7 on a DIY scale of 1-10 and have no idea what I was nervous about. One call to Rheem, they sent me a brass valve replacement for free. I had everyone telling me that I needed to shut off the water heater and water supply, give it about 2 hours to cool down, then because my drain valve was not able to open while ALSO having a hose attached (It was the plastic Rheem Professional valve) that I was going to have to use a dryer vent and circulate 5 gallon buckets, etc etc. Basically a process that might have taken two people, plus the time to refill and reheat 50 gallons of water after I was done. I was thinking this was going to be a huge pain.
Woggers Way: water shut off, pressure valve released for 3 seconds, hulked the old one off, had the new one ready to go. Had about 2 oz of water come out and the new one was baby hulked back on and was ready to go. Total time 5 minutes.
A 3 hour process with 50 gallons of wasted water turned into a 5 minute process with zero waste. Amazing. Thank you Sir! Liked and subscribed! 😂
Now that's what I like to hear. That gives you 2 hrs 55 min left over to watch more of my videos. lol (Love the Baby Hulked comment). Good luck with your projects.
Ok so I was giving this about a 30 percent chance of working and a 70 percent chance I was about to flood my laundry room. Since the valve that was on my water heater looked like it had then through a lot in its lifetime there wasn’t really a way to hook a water hose up to it.
Naturally mine has the old school gate valve that I wasn’t sure if it completely shut off. So I went outside and turned it off at the meter. Figuring the plastic valve was going to break I applied gentle pressure until it finally broke loose. I reluctantly unscrewed it and all of about a half ounce of water came out. I popped the new metal one in and back up and running in just a few minutes.
Ive found over the years that all you need to be a successful plumber is a tank full of gas and a pocket full of money and eventually you can make it work somewhat like it supposed to.
Thanks for the video bro you made this super easy.
Awesome.. glad it was a successful exchange. Thanks for watching and the kind comment.
Thanks for this video i fixed mine just by watching your video and you saved me so much time.
Awesome.. that's what I like to hear..
Thank you my friend just did it today November 1, 2023 thought I had to replace the whole tank. It was two years out of warranty from whirlpool lol and then you came along…. Thank you very much.!
Glad I could help and thank you for watching
Oh yes indeed, the "Woggers Way" does work! Everything went smoothly with this procedure. I did have a devil of a time torquing off the old drain valve - it just did not want to turn, but finally I was able to get enough torque on it and thread it off!
Oh the frustration when it doesn't want to come off, but the joy when it finally does. Thanks for watching and your comments. Good luck with your projects.
Great video, I just replaced leaking plastic drain valve the way you showed, worked nice, didn't loose any water and took few minutes to do the job.
Love a successful repair! Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects
Works like a charm. Being a maintenance mechanic by trade, I'm surprised I never thought of this before. Looked at the old valve when I took it out and you can see the o-ring inside is damaged. I wanted to add a photo, but I don't know how. Excellent video.
Thanks. I thought the same thing when I learned this years ago.. how did I not think of this before. Glad it helped you. Thanks for watching and good luck with all your projects.
Thank you very much for your video I was watching other videos and everyone said to take out all the water but suddenly this video came out and I changed the whole plan much better save a lot of time and money thank you for sharing those secrets🙏🏼
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching
Great tip! I wasn't ready when I removed the plastic drain valve & water gushed out. Not much maybe a gallon.
Sounds as though you didn't create a good vacuum, but glad you were able to get it changed out. Thanks for watching.
Very informative. It walks u thru the whole process so u do it correctly. I need to do this also but 23 y o so I’m just going to replace the whole thing but I’ll install a better drain valve in the new one. The plastic one leaks behind the knob when opening it n noone has a simple fix so I got me a nice brass one !!
23 years out of a water heater... that's awesome. Upgrading the valve upon installation is the way to go. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching
Alternate suggestion for reusing the flange (without cutting it):
Duct-tape it into place before removing the valve, I.e. so that the flange doesn’t come off while you’re frantically busy putting the new valve into place.
good suggestion. Thanks
Why do these things have to happen in the middle of the night? In Houston, most of our water heaters are in the attic....can you see where I am going.... Thank you for this video ... saved me time and stress I just cut the water off on the heater 3:15AM till I could get to Home Depot at 6. I was brand new by 7AM.... Thanks again ! Woggers Way is the only Way!😁
I say the same thing here... I always seem to get a call8 pm on a Saturday or sometime on Sunday. it can never happen at 9am on a Tuesday. Same with smoke detectors.. they always start chirping at 2am and it's always the unit in your bedroom. Glad you were able to fix it ... being in the attic I hope you didn't experience much water damage. Dumb place to put a water heater. Here they're mostly in the garage which is much better. thank you for watching and for the nice compliment.
@@thewoggerswaydiy Not much water damage we’ve gotten real good with slapping that big fan on drywall and get dry fast. Nothing worse than thinking - this wall is fine - put your finger to nail a picture and your finger goes right through… uh, think we missed this one? Lessons still being taught ! Thanks for your great video !
I did this with a bottom element one time.... It ended up being freaking Sandhog! Wish i would have known beforehand....
But, this method he's doing is a really common way to do it...
I've personally never tried this with a bottom heating element on an electric unit, but I know guys that have. Same process and as long as you get that vacuum you should be good to go. Thanks for watching.
@@thewoggerswaydiy as long as it's not a sandhog... Those elements are the ones that are wavy...
Good vid
Nice video on a heater issue that comes up very often in the plumbing world! A couple of small things that I have learned over the years that I hope will help add value to your process...It is not necessary to pipe off the T&P valve during this process. Better yet, it's not good to open and close an older T&P valve period. Just put a full-size towel under the drain valve and open it slowly to create your vacuum. As you mention in your video, you only lose a pint or so of water. If there is an expansion tank on the heater, then use a hose on the drain valve and pipe it into a bucket. It's not a gravity drain off as you are just releasing the pressure in the system to create your vacuum. Loosen your drain valve by using channel lock pliers the "correct way" (you were using them backwards in your video! ;). One last thing, the drain valve you used as a replacement IMO is as bad as the plastic valve you replaced. Spend an extra $5 and buy the water heater drain valve that is a "ball valve" style. They now come stock with the wholesale Rheem heaters. The heater you were working on early in your video came from the retail heaters sold at HD which have the plastic drain valve. Heaters need to be flushed once or twice a year depending on your water, so I suggest getting a drain valve that will last and work properly for the life of the heater. What you have shown can be completed in less than 30 minutes which is a great savings of time for the homeowner and the plumber. Thanks for making this informative video!
Thanks for your input. Normally I like to "upgrade" the drain valves by inserting a 3/4" brass nipple with a full port ball valve and a hose adapter on the end, which gives a nice large opening to make flushing and draining a lot faster and easier, plus if there's any sediment it won't clog up like those other drain valves. This was in a rental and the homeowner wouldn't pay the extra for the "upgrade" on a 7 yr old water heater, so they get the "budget" valve.
Good luck with your projects.
Yup. I learned the hard way about opening a T&P valve that leaked as a result of my opening it. I would avoid that if at all possible.
Sitting here watching DIY plumbing videos while my water heater drains so that I can replace the valve… watch this video, and D’OH that makes perfect sense, but my heater is over half empty already, so I don’t think your trick will work now. If only I had subscribed to your channel a year ago and seen this _before_ I started. But I’ll know for next time 😉
As an aside, a plumber told me that I should replace the whole water heater not just replace the valve, he claimed that the tank itself will start leaking soon, his logic was that, because I had installed the water heater in 1988, it it now out of its warranty and won’t last much longer. I figure it’s lasted this long, I may as well keep maintaining it however much longer it does last, I drain it every year, and replace the anode rod every 4 years, beyond that it’s not much effort to maintain.
1988? 36 years.. that water heater needs to go to the Smithsonian. lol
I agree with you, that if it's not broke, don't fix it, although with a water heater it will eventually leak, if something else doesn't go wrong with it first. With that said, if the water heater is located in an area where leaking won't cause any damage to anything, or if you have a spill pan under it so when it leaks the water is directed to a safe location, then run it as long as you can. However, if it leaks and it will result in damages from the water, then a proactive approach to replace it is best. If you haven't seen my video about spill pans and why they are important, please give it a watch. There's a link to it at the end of this video, or here's the link: ua-cam.com/video/jf-9I3G02tY/v-deo.html
In the mean time, do periodic flushes and change out the anode rod every 2-3 years and hopefully you can keep that water heater funning another 36 years. Thanks for watching, and good luck with all your projects.
@@thewoggerswaydiy thanks for the advice! My water heater is in the basement right next to a floor drain, so I’m not worried about a leak. As far as replacing my drain valve, I’m really glad I drained the tank first, because it was a plastic valve, factory installed without Teflon tape (I think they used pipe dope, but maybe not even that), and I snapped the valve as I was struggling to remove it. I had to borrow a huge vice grip pliers from a buddy to get the remaining part of the valve out of the tank, I would have had water going everywhere if I hadn’t already drained it. But I still like your technique, just wasn’t right for this particular circumstance. My suggestion for anyone trying to swap a valve without draining the tank would be to stop and drain *if* you are having trouble removing a plastic valve, you don’t want a broken off valve with a full tank.
so true.. that's why I mention to have a drain pipe on hand to place over the opening in the event the valve breaks. Thanks for the insight.
We just followed this ourselves - great advice. Thank you! Didn't take us long at all
Glad I was abler to help. Good luck with all your projects.
Do you have a GAS water heater and if so, did shut off the gas to the heater first before shutting off the water and the relieving pressure? Then re-light after turning the water back on?
Thank you for the great video. I have the same hot water tank (first have of video) and it was an easy fix. i would like to add another pro to your list. Saving cost on water bill. The city i live in has one of the highest costs for water in Michigan. So filling up 50 gallons of water saved me probably 20 bucks. Thanks again😀😀
Saving money is always a good thing.. saving water is always good also. Like here in Vegas where they regulate when you can water your landscaping and pay you to remove grass, that 50 gal could have watered your yard for a month. Thanks for watching
This approach worked perfectly. Thank you for the upload.
Glad everything went well for you and thanks for watching.
Really good man! Great, thorough video-Going to get brass drain valve now and get to it. THANKS!
Glad I could help. Hope everything goes smooth. Thanks for watching
Great Video , you can do that with gas valves and T&P as well , Standard procedure for me never touch a gate valve I shut off at the street those things are garbage! Also you can break pressure at a hot fixture . prevents the t&P will leak forever.
Thanks for the feedback and watching. Good luck with your projects.
Gave me the courage to take off my plastic one, which is like yours only gray. I was scared to do it after watching some other videos where they had the plastic angled ones and they were stuck in there good, maybe they fused them in at the factory? Thanks!
Always glad to hear success stories. Thanks for the watching and the kind comments.
@@thewoggerswaydiy Yeah thanks! The new full bore ball valve blasted some white chunks out like a fire hydrant, even though the water heater is only a few years old. One downside is that the long brass valve conducts a lot of heat so I insulated it and removed the handle, which I attached with a removable cable tie. I'll try to flush 1 gal of water every month or so.
Great video with tips and explanation of how to do it.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching
Thanks, You cover ALL the bases.
My pleasure!
This video was outstanding.
I think so also. haha. thanks for watching and the nice comment. Good luck with your projects.
I ah e this exact issue thanks I’m going to follow these steps my only question is do I need to turn off the gas?
that is not necessary, since you should only see about 1/4 to 1/2 cup of water come out if you do it successfully. Good luck with your project and let me know how it goes
Thanks! I'm definitely going to try it! The part is discontinued but Amazon might have it?
You should be able to use any 3/4" mpt fitting.. In 15 yrs I've never come across one that wasn't. On new installs I normally install a nipple with a full port valve. Good luck and thanks for watching.
This is a very good video. I just did a similar job. I had cold water shut off>bad domestic expansion tank> gas water heater then the hot water going up. But i was replacing the the st 5 and tp valve. . I was mad nervous to create a vacuum to press in (i use a press tool) a ball valve to the hw going upstairs. But it went smooth. But id rather drop pressure at the drain than the tp valve unless im gonna replace it. But you explained a step every one else misses. Its great what a vacuum can do!
Same here about the TPR valve.. I don't like "disturbing" them if at all possible or you may end up having to change it out. That's why I added at the end about using the faucet to create the vacuum, or vapor lock as some like to refer. Glad your job worked out and appreciate the comment and support.
@@thewoggerswaydiy and I just replaced a drain on a boiler today the same way! But today when I went to put in the valve for the hot water going up (this was for a tankless coil) I had to drop the pressure at a faucet, I made sure to use one that had 2 separate handles. But when I cut into the pipe, it was coming out pretty fast this time. Lol I did notice one of their faucets leaking later, perhaps it didn't great a good vacuum.
I just this to my water heater using same procedure but I installed a good ball valve.
I good full port ball valve is the way to go. Unfortunately many clients don't want to pay the slight extra to install them, especially on rental properties, which is a large part of our business. Thanks for watching and your input.
Nice video. Just wondered why you used a leftover valve from some other water heater instead of a full port ball valve w/ hose adapter......
This was a new valve, as shown at 2:02.. normally we install a full port valve but client didn't want to pay for it since it was in a rental and wanted the least cost as possible. Thanks for watching.
I'm going to attempt this.. Fingers crossed the valve is 3/4 like the one I bought 😂
How did it go? Inquiring minds want to know
Does this still apply if you have a 2 gallon expansion tank attached to the Cold water in line. I have this tank on my electric water heater. As you know this is the bladder type tank that is pressurized on one side. Hope you get back to me. I would love to try doing the drain valve on mine your way. Thanks!
It should, although I have never tried it on a system with an expansion tank. Others have told me they've done it successfully. If the tank is pressurized properly (to match your incoming water pressure) then there shouldn't be any water in it to put pressure on the system, and you should be fine. If your water heater is located in an area where leaking could cause damage you may want to drain it first, as a precaution. Good luck with your project and comment on how it went.
Great video. Thank you. Blessings
Appreciate it. Thanks for watching!
I had a gas water heater a few years ago that had a leaking plastic drain valve that was leaking, but this valve looked like an out door valve where you would hook up your garden hose. My water is so bad that I have to change my anode rod every year.I got the plastic valve out easily and replaced it with a brass ball valve. In 2023 I replaced replaced my water heater with a A.O.Smith 60 gallon electric heater. It came with the cheapest plastic valve that started leaking two weeks after installation. A O Smith recommends flushing the tank and checking the anode rod after six months. I emptied the tank and attempted to replace the the plastic valve that immediately snapped all the way inside the tank. I was told breakage is not covered under warranty. I thought yhe plastic valve was glued in and that is why it broke but they said it was threaded in. So I had to buy a new water heater after having the other one only six months. The new one is a different model but basically the same design. After ten months I had no hot water and the breaker keeps tripping. I called AO and was told the parts were under warranty but not the labor. It was the heating element that was bad and being on a weekend I had to do the job myself. Bottom line is the tank would not drain from the drain valve and the anode rod even with a long extension on the socket handle and a tank full of water it would not budge. I replaced both heating elements and now have hot water. I am planning to get a friend with a impact wrench to loosen the anode rod so I can replace it,but my problem is the drain valve. I have already broke one snd afraid to repeat the same mistake.I cannot afford to buy a new water heater every year. Sorry for the long post. Lesson learned? Never buy a A O Smith water heater.
Very unusual for AO Smith.. their water heaters are usually quite good. The problem is, Lowes now sells AO Smith branded water heaters, but they are the "big box variety", which means they are dumbed-down with cheaper parts to keep the price low for Lowes. The AO Smith units I purchase through my plumbing supplier are a much better build quality. Although I now mostly install Bradford White exclusively, it has nothing to do with the quality of the AO Smith units. It's just that I can buy the Bradford White at the same or better price through one of my suppliers than I can get the AO Smith. And if the price if comparable, I'll go with a Bradford White. rule of thumb is replace the drain valve with a full port valve at the time of initial installation and then you won't have to worry about it later on. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching.
if you try the quick method w/o draining and you are removing a plastic drain valve it may break off during removal and it could take 30 mins to one hour to get the threaded plastic pipe removed from the water heater
If the valve breaks off during the "quick" method, it'll still break off when removing even after draining the tank. That's why we don't use the big box heaters.. they're "dumbed down" to make them cheaper. We only use the better grade of heaters from our plumbing suppliers. Thanks for watching and the comment.
@@thewoggerswaydiy I was warning the home owner who might not have these water heater.
Good advice. So far I've only had one break off during removal... so far... fingers crossed on future jobs.
Hey my brother replaced the plastic drain valve on the water heater without draining it and it didn't break. It was kind of bitter sweet though because he left the the shower on with the drain plug closed before doing this and the bath tub overflowed with a lot water on the bathroom floor. What a mess! He was trying to used up the hot water just in case the plastic valve broke on the water heater.
Well that sucks. He kind of defeated the purpose though by using up water that he could have just drained direct from the water heater.. Lesson learned I guess. thanks for watching.
Hey is there any chance you could tell me what the overall length is of the plastic valves you removed? Mine looks to be that exact one and it is in front of a utility closet where a door closes in front of it. So I want to make certain the new valve fits.
Off hand I'm not too certain.. I'd say 3-5 inches possibly but just guessing at this point.
This just happened to one of mine. Isnt it good here in Vegas to drain it a couple times a year anyway to get more life out of it?
That's a heavily debated question. Some plumbers say it doesn't make a difference, some say flushing it will extend the life of a water heater. I'm from the school that flushing it, especially if you're in an area with high mineral content in your water, like we are here in Vegas, is a good practice. I've cut open numerous water heaters and have seen the extensive amount of sediment build up in the bottom of the tanks, and there's no way you can convince me that it doesn't contribute to your water heater working harder and not as efficient, plus you know all that crud is contributing to the decay of the tank. Flushing your tank once a year and making sure to replace your anode rod every few years will go a long way in getting more life of your water heater. Thanks for watching and good luck with all your projects.
Are the valves all the same size? This is happening on my 3 year old unit as I type..
Yes. 3/4". Thanks for watching
Wow! They like their water hot!
Smokinnnn'
What if the release valve isnt connected to a grain... can you still do it??
Why isn't your TPR valve connected to a drain? It should go to a floor drain with an air gap or to a exterior discharge. If yours doesn't for some reason, then for safety sake you can use a faucet to create the vacuum instead. Thanks for watching
Factoring in Murphy's Law, it might be prudent to shut the water heater off, or put it on Vacation Mode overnight to lower the temperature of the water. And I wonder, in the case that you don't use the TPR valve to release pressure, would the distance of the faucet you open change the length of time you need to leave it open?
First, you shouldn't have your water heater turned up so far where it would scald you, buuuuut, if you do, then definitely wear gloves as mentioned in the video, or let it cool down first. And no, faucet or TPR, doesn't matter the length of open time. Thanks for hte comments and for watching.
My plastic drain valve leaks behind the big knob after opening to drain the tank. Stops when tightened. So my question is do u know why/ what is the deal ? The problem is with the knob not the thing coming out( unscrewing)
Sounds like it's type of gate valve and the washer/o-ring is worn out.
Great video but what if the cheap plastic valve happens to break off and leave the threads inside
That is the one issue that could ruin your day, but that is why I say to be prepared with the vent pipe so you can hold it over the hole in such an event to catch the draining water. Of course if you suspect that the valve is compromised and breaking off could be an issue, then if possible drain the water heater first. Once it's drained now you have to deal with the broken off threads. Sorry to say there is no easy way to get them out. If the opening is wide enough you can stick a hacksaw blade in there and cut through the plastic in several locations, being careful not to cut into the metal threads of the water heater. Then use a small head flat screwdriver and start prying all the pieces out. You can try a broken nipple extractor first, but chances are that if it broke off in the first place, the threads are pretty corroded onto the water heater and this method may prove futile. Once you have all the plastic pieces out clean out the threads with a wire pipe brush and install your new valve. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching.
Thanks so much for the info.
thank you for watching. Hope it help you save some time. Good luck with your projects.
Really helpful video, but a possibly dumb question:
How sure are we that the thread-size on a store-bought valve is “absolutely sure” to be the right size and will fit?
For example, some other videos have suggested removing the old valve and taking it with you to the hardware store just to ensure that it’s right.
The reason I ask is if you use the technique shown in the video (I.e. not draining the tank) and it turns out the threads on the new valve _don’t_ fit, then you could be in real trouble. ;-)
I have never seen a water heater not take a 3/4" MPT threaded valve or nipple her in the US. Is it possible? Anything is possible. Of course you could always just stick the old on back in and go the draining route.
Question - for a GAS water heater, before shutting off the water, should the gas be completely turned off at the heater and then re-lit after completing this procedure?
It's a good idea, but not necessary if you can change it out quickly as in the video. Just wear protective gloves since the water will be hot whether or not you shut off the gas (unless it's been sitting for quite some time since you shut off the gas). Good luck with your project.
@@thewoggerswaydiy- WOGGER RULES!!! It went beautifully! I am seeing water draining out with the new brass valve, which is very encouraging since I was concerned that there was substantial mineral buildup at the bottom of the tank such that water would not drain out through the valve. Question: do you have a video on removing and replacing the ANODE ROD? All the work I am doing is on a 2007 GE "Smart Water, Smart Shield" gas water heater. For the rod is it necessary to turn off the gas? I have a breaker bar and if necessary will slide a pipe over that bar to generate the torque to loosen and remove the hex nut on the current rod.
@@jgehbinv I currently do not have a video on replacing the anode rod, but it's on my list. You don't need to turn off the gas, but you should turn off the burner while you change out the anode rod. Get that cheater pipe ready, because you'll probably need it. Glad the process for the drain valve went well.
Hi There,
What size is the drain valve are you using?
The drain pipe is 3/4". Thanks for watching.
Thank you
Is there a reason for low hot water pressure after doing this?
is the pressure issue throughout the house or only at certain fixtures? If only at certain fixtures you may just have sediment buildup in the fixture or clogging up the aerator. Replace the aerator and see if that cures the issue. If it's a whole house issue then simply replacing the drain valve won't cause low water pressure and you have another issue, that just happened to materialize at the same time you changed the valve. Could be a poor pressure reducing valve for one cause.
I was completely terrified because my water heater never quite stopped dripping, but this totally worked! I cranked very softly in small increments so I didn't accidently rip the PLASTIC drain off, but everything went really smoothly once I got it off and the new one in the hole. THANK YOU!
Another success story. Always glad to hear about them. Thanks for sharing.
Your in vegas.want to come and change mine.
You can contact us through our website woggers.com to schedule an appointment.
How about changing the pressure valve?
The nice thing about the PRV is that it's at the top of the water heater, unlike the drain which is at the bottom. So, just shut off the water to the heater, drain a very small amount of water and then change it out. Easy Peasy!
I followed your directions, turned off water, released valve for more than a few seconds because it was leaking some water, then closed valve, then unscrew drain valve until it shot like a bullet somewhere in the room. Have not found it but scared me. Some water came out and I quickly put new one in. Why was there still so much pressure?
Only thing I can think of, is if you used the TPR valve to relieve the pressure, the TPR valve may be defective, or stuck, and didn't open to relieve the pressure.
@@thewoggerswaydiy thanks, I'll look into that, these newer hot water heaters are beyond cheap!
One more reason for trying to avoid draining the tank:
If, like me, the hot water heater is in the basement, there’s no drain in the basement, and the only route for an attached hose is higher than the top of the water heater.
Consequently, completely draining the tank involves toting the (50 gals or so of) water out of the basement one bucket at a time.
I' surprised that a house built for a water heater positioned in the basement doesn't have a drain. In that case, if you don't want to haul buckets of water upstairs, just drain it into a 5 gal bucket and have a pump set up to transfer the water from the bucket to the outside.
@@thewoggerswaydiymy house was built in 1902. Definitely no drain in the basement (cellar)
Can you empty it into say a large plastic tote, use a garden hose and create a siphon? Because lugging water sucks immensely.
@@dumbcow1 : But again, the question is how do you create a siphon when the source of the water (i.e. the drain on the hotwater heater) is _below_ any intended destination of the water?
@NichaelCramer Perhaps a small garden pump could get you the vertical pressure you need to ground level or a drain?
Do you still charge for the two hrs you saved?
I charge extra for my "skill". lol. No, it's cheaper if we spend less time. Although, we do quote the job for a full drain, just in case there's any issues and we have to drain it, but if all goes well and we can swap it out without draining the unit, then we reduce the charge for time spent. Thanks for the question and good luck with your projects.
@thewoggerswaydiy lol, just giving you a hard time. I have a leaking valve that I might give your way a try, maybe. It's on an older tank, 2007, with a leaking plastic valve. I had a plumbing inspection yesterday, and I believe he was a little hard on the valve. I got it to stop leaking, but I do need to replace it. Have a good day sir.
Think about the risk you're taking, Think about the new apprentice Or inexperienced home owner that's going to attempt this and get his hand burnt, Break off the plastic drain in a customer's house. Always drain the water heater first. Cutting corners will cause accidents.
Been doing this for 20 yrs with only one time I had to place the drain pipe over the hole, but when the unit is inside a house I agree you should drain it first to avoid any possibility of an accident. Here in LV I've only encountered 2 times a water heater was inside a house. One was a "remodel" where owner put it in a bedroom, which is a code violation and the other was a house from the 50's where it was in a closet in the kitchen. Different parts of the country may be different, but here you'll typically find them in the garage or an outside patio/balcony. Still, as mentioned in the video, you should always have the drain pipe handy and ready to go just in case. Always wear gloves but if you're burning your hand you have the thermostat set too high. No reason to have it set where it will scald you. That just wastes money trying to keep it at an unusually high temp and promotes scalding issues at faucets, etc. Thanks for watching and for your comments. This is how people learn. Good luck with your projects.
All is good unless the plastic valve break when you are removing it. Then you're stuck with a full water heater and a broken valve you have to remove piece by piece.
Yes, that happens occasionally. That's why I mention to have a tube on hand to place over the opening to direct the draining water in the tank out to a "safe" area. Thanks for watching
Good video
Thank you and good luck with your projects.
My concern is that now the water heater is wet on the bottom. This will speed up deterioration.
When done right, there should only be a very small amount of water that comes out, and placing a towel down will absorb it. Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects.
I did this, a little scary cause as soon as the old valve came out it blew off and water and air exploded all over my face and my body .. Luckily it wasn't super hot. I released the air with the TPR valve, so I'm not sure what I did wrong. But the jobs done. 😅
Same thing happened to me! Wish I had the gloves ready 😢
Glad you're ok.. It's possible that either your TPR is stuck and not opening to create the vacuum, or your shut off valve to the water heater isn't fully closing... a common problem if you have a gate valve as opposed to a ball valve. Glad you were able to get it done and you are ok. Thanks for watching.
That plastic drain valve will probably break when trying to take it off and water will be everywhere don't you think? So shouldn't you just drain the tank first?
If you feel the plastic valve is compromised or is so corroded there may be the chance of it breaking then you should drain the tank. This is why in the video I mention having the drain pipe on hand just in case, that way you can avoid a mishap. thanks for watching.
@@thewoggerswaydiyok
Can you tell me the size please
All water heater drain valves are pretty much standard 3/4" pipe thread. Thanks for watching.
Do I have to turn off the gas?
No you do not... as long as you don't end up having to drain the tank. Good luck with your projects.
That pressure relief valve you have draining outside is not code where I live. It must terminate no less than 6 inches from the floor. Reason being that if it actually self actuates, it means pressure inside the tank is too great and could be catastrophic if not corrected. So draining on the floor gives the home owner an indication that something is wrong. Otherwise, you'd never know.
Yean, every where is different. Here it's not only permissible to have our PRV drain outside, but it's pretty much all you see here in Vegas. If it drains outside it has to terminate no more than 6" above the ground, so a unit on the 2nd floor cannot just terminate outside on the 2nd floor, otherwise someone down below gets a very hot and unwanted shower. it can also terminate at a floor drain, but we don't seem to have those here. I've seen some people terminate it into the spill pan under the water heater but that's not to code here. Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects.
Where was this video 2 weeks ago
You can flush your tank at the same time.
Why does my rheem water heater leaks from the drain hole
If it's dripping from the valve where you would connect a drain hose it's an indication the seals in the valve have deteriorated or got corrosion in there. If it's leaking from around the valve, where it screws into the tank, then you have a sealing issue in the threads or the valve is damaged. Either way, replacing the drain valve, making sure to properly seal the threads with Teflon tape or joint compound should cure your issue. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching.
What is the valve part number? Are they universal?
The valve used in this video was by Everbilt, model# EB12112G through The Home Depot. Sells for just under $10. Yes, drain valves are "universal", in that they are 3/4" MPT (male pipe thread). Good luck with your project.
@@thewoggerswaydiy Thank you for the helpful video and quick response. I have noticed that drains or anything threaded parts made out of plastic was the frequent issue in other applications around the house in general. My personal favorite is when they use " it's made out of the same substance that NASA uses " as to make us believe that it is super strong 😂.
@@makb5354 Didn't NASA have one of their shuttles explode.. and another disintegrated upon reentry... just sayin'
@@thewoggerswaydiy😂 yes
I wanna do this so bad but im scared my drain valve will break off in the heater 😢
There's nothing to fear but fear itself... and maybe a flooded house... oh yeah, and bears.. bears can be pretty scary. If you're not confident then always play it safe and drain the tank. Especially if your unit is quite old or if you see a lot of corrosion around the valve. Thanks for watching and drop us a comment on which route you took and how it went.
@@thewoggerswaydiy haha it's 10-11yrs old. It's in the garage so I'm not worried about a flooded home. I'm worried about having to replace the WH if I break the plastic drain.
Not a problem.. if the plastic drain valve breaks off you can still remove the remnants.
I don't have a video on that yet, but here's a link to on that will show you how to do it.
Good luck with your projects. ua-cam.com/video/4m1KxuHewHY/v-deo.htmlsi=PzstrCC50zinYPHj
@@thewoggerswaydiy thanks!
If your adding a new drain valve to drain the tank why not just drain the tank first. If I try to remove a plastic drain valve in an older tank and it cracks or snaps off, I'm screwed. Now I have 50 gallons of hot water going everywhere. Also, I replaced my drain valve with a 3/4" full port ball valve. Now the sediment cant clog the valve like it did in the original valve's pea size hole causing it to take 10 hours for the tank to drain.
Thanks for the comment. The valve isn't always being replaced just to drain the tank. Like in the video, they're being changed because they are leaking and need to be replaced, but don't want to waste 40-50 gallons of water. Yes, if you break one off without draining the tank water will gush out, but that's why I mention to have a pipe on hand to hold over the drain port hole to catch and divert the water. I use a 3" or 4" semi rigid vent pipe and have it set up just in case. And yes, replacing the crappy original valves with a 3/4" full port valve ball valve is the way to go. I didn't do it in this video because these were rental properties and the homeowners didn't want to spend the extra money. Of course they end up paying for the added labor time in the future when the crappy one is clogged and it takes us longer to drain the tank. lol
Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects.
Just did a drain valve in a third floor apartment the other day. I thought about trying this but I’m not gonna lie, I didn’t have the balls.
Understandable. The first time I did this I also had concerns... just have a flexible vent pipe positioned to the outside that you can place over the opening in the event you can't get that vacuum created, but in over 13 years I've yet had this not work. Just realize some water will come out.. a few ounces.. so place a rag/towel underneath the valve to soak up any water. Good luck with your future projects.
Can you just cap the drain off?
@tomdavis3495
if it's dripping from the end then yes, although that doesn't fix the issue. A better alternative, if you don't want to change out the valve, is install a shut-off adapter that screws on to the valve and has it's own shut-off lever. If it's leaking from the threads, then neither a cap nor the adapter will cure the issue and you'll need to change out the valve. Good luck with your projects and thank you for watching.
@@thewoggerswaydiy hey I figured out there was like a good half turn or turn left so I turned it until it was tight and it stopped the drip I still have a container underneath it to see if it still leaks in a day or so , and I did buy a brass hose bib cap! Is that good ?
Yes, but see my reply to @jonleone777 above. It could be a bigger underlying inssue.
You must be a welder, you got your hat on backwards.
That's backwards? lol
skip to 1:45
and all the action is at 6:04. lol. Thanks for watching.
so when the brittle plastic valve snaps off the second you go to loosen it what then? drain it the hard way, all over my laundry room.... thanks for the "hack"
If you look at the 9:00 mark, I mention how you need to have a pipe on standby to catch and direct any mishap, should it happen. If you don't take the necessary precautions to prevent any such mishaps, then you're the one creating the "hack". In all my years I've never flooded a room, garage, etc., or caused any damage, because I make sure to be prepared if things don't go as planned. Thanks for watching.
@@thewoggerswaydiy had pipe on standby, problem is what is left of the plastic valve is still in the threads.
@@apz39I’d just go back n forth as if u was on a rusty bolt n pray of course.
I had the tool I use to remove sprinkler heads just in case that happened. He might want to add that to his video. I thought about that last night and went out to the shed and got the tool just in case. Didn't need it, but it pays to be safe.
That's exactly what I use. Wish we could update the existing videos but we can't. Just would have to post a new video. Thanks for the suggestion.
Mine is leaking from the front. Just had my home warrenty com0any send out a tech to replace the valve. This guy take a look for two seconds and tells me he going to put a cap on it. Little did he know im an operations super for a miliary contract and manage all the building trades. I told this guy replace the plastic crap with a metal valve. He gives me some crap about the valve breaking then he has to replace the whole tank. Needless to say i sent him packing and called the warrenty company and got square in their ass about sending idiots to my house.
I see it all the time with warranty companies. It's so frustrating. Hope you were finally able to get it repaired.
Just had a subscriber email me the other day about this same scenario.. home warranty plumber just put a cap on the leaking plastic drain valve because he didn't have a replacement on the truck. Then he made the customer go to the store to purchase the cap (first, shouldn't have the customer go buy the parts.. and second if they were sending them to the store, at least have them pick up a valve instead of a cap). Long story boring, the cap was fine but the real issue was the threads on the plastic valve were actually breaking so the valve ended up shooting off and flooded the house a few days later. If the valve was just replaced as it should have, the flood would have been avoided. Now they're going through flood remediation. I have lots of issues with Home Warranty vendors which may be a video in itself one day, but goes to show, if you don't do it right you have more problems... A 10 min hack job turned into a job in the thousands of dollars and weeks of inconveniences to the homeowner.
Holy shit. I hope you didn’t install that mess.
lol. Nope, just changed out the drain valve that was leaking. Thanks for watching.