Ford IWE Solenoid Troubleshooting and Testing
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- Опубліковано 25 чер 2020
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Today's video is testing the Ford IWE Solenoid to make sure that it has vacuum and electrical. For the system to work properly you need at least minimum of 10 inches of vacuum and 9 volts at the iwe solenoid. You need to test the vacuum from the engine to the solenoid, then from the solenoid to the iwe vacuum hubs to make sure it all works. The electrical connector should have power all the time with the ignition on, the 4x4 switch just applies a ground. - Авто та транспорт
Thank you for posting the series of videos on the IWE system. I have a 2004 F150 and one or both of my hubs had recently started to try and partially engage anytime that I was going up an incline at highway speed and it shifted out of OD. Based on some other videos I'd watched, I had found the check valve nearest the solenoid to be bad and had replaced it, but my problem persisted. Turns out that the first check valve (the first one you check in this video) was also bad. So I replaced that one as well and went ahead and got a vacuum pump/tester and checked the vacuum at all of the points you cover in this video and the next one just to be sure everything else was up to par. I think I am in good shape now!
Thank you for posting a great, well detailed, and to-the-point series of videos. I've watched a few on the subject in the past week or so and this series that you did was the best hands down. Super helpful! Thanks again!
Thank you I try to keep the videos on point and wander off
That’s why I switched to Warn Manual hubs my F250. Though I never had an issue, it was a weak point that was worth changing. I just got my Power Probe from Amazon yesterday and I’m rewatching any of your old videos where your using it. Awesome tool that is going to take awhile to learn how to use all of its capabilities. Another great tool I’ve added because of your channel Jerry. I hardly use my air compressor any more due to my Milwaukee impacts you recommend.
You will love the power probe by far my fav tool I have
Great video! Thanks for all of the explanation of each area letting us know what you’d see if it was good and what you’d see if it was bad.
This is why I like my cable actuated system.....
Thanks for making these
very good explanation
just what i needed
I appreciate the video. Don’t understand how to check the electrical connection.
That power probe is sweet...
Thank you brother. My 2018 f150 hubs stay locked in
I have no indicator lights on dash wont go into 4wd hi or low. Just replace transfer case motor. Relays are good and fuse good. Any suggestions?
I have 21 inches of vaccum at all vaccum hoses. But i still have a clunking noise when driving above 40mph and then accelerating, when i engage 4x4 it goes a away. I lifted the truck up and the driver wheel spins freely but the passenger side feels stiffer but it doesnt spin the axle. If i remove the vacuum both axle spin. Whole could cause the clunking noise?
the electrical connection has no power how do I check that so I can get power to the solenoid
Does the 2007 f 150 5.4L 4x4 has a control module for the 4x4?
I have no vacuum from the hub ? Any reason why this it thanks
I have 2006 ford 150 and someone removed all 4wd vacuum lines. I cannot find where the vacuum is supplied from the engine PLEASE HELP!
Where could I find the fuse that powers the solenoid??
on iwe solenoid there no power at the plug
can you explain not getting a ground test for a person with a "regular" test light and or multimeter???
Set the meter for OHMS and measure continuity
vacuum iwe solenoid valve 4x4 and 4wd there no power at the plug what can do
I tried testing my lines but with the tester hooked up to my vac lines my engine won’t idle.
overview of how the system works in the beginning would be nice
There is a video of that in the playlist
no more beers in the videos bro??
Good video. I think you mean to say 15 inches of Mercury, it's the actual unit of measure for vacuum
Looks like a complex system just to have 4WD.
The iwe system doesn't actually engage the 4 wheel drive, as many people think. It's used to disconnect the front hubs from the front drive axles while in 2 wheel drive. This is done for fuel economy, as well as to save wear on the front drive train. By default, the hubs and front axles are joined via the iwe when no engine vacuum is present. This ensures that 4wd will still be able available even if there's a cut vacuum line or the vacuum diaphragm on the iwe fails. Yes, it's a bit of over engineering, but if it can potentially affect fuel mileage in a positive way, auto manufacturers tend to do things like this. Fortunately, it's not a terribly complex system, and if there is an issue, it's generally an easy diagnosis.
86 view, 11 like, first comment. Hmmmm