Man... so glad I came across this. I've not seen guys shoot a stock rifle, then do things to IMPROVE it's accuracy. I love it. Shows the before, after, I wish more Channels would take an approach like this every once in a while.
I enjoy buying a stock rifles Then improving on the rifle over time ... He did what me and most my friends do over a couple years . He just did it all at once . I built my savage model 10 fcp-sr the same same way just use a manner's t4 stock instead . ( Stock was used E-BAY special for $450) . That's why I don't have the MDT chassis now.
Greg Beals - Given the rule of thumb that your scope should cost at least as much as the entire projectile-launching-device if it’s supposed to be equal to the optic, $700 is for the budget-minded, not the serious shooter. Price the three most commonly suggested bipods (Atlas, Accu-tac and GG&G) before you stop laughing. MDT, itself, is the lowest end chassis’s one can find. XRLs are somewhat competitive and definitely superior.
Kansa City Shuffle - You’d think, given how 6.5 Creedmoor has established itself as the new standard for this caliber/class, there would be quality, match-grade .308 going for $10 a box. $50 a box? The fact that it sells defies all I know about supply and demand.
I really appreciate this concise, practical approach to improving accuracy on a standard firearm, straight out of the box. This video is made by an expert marksman (ex-military, I presume) who offers everything we need to know to fit our budget in one succinct presentation. (Thems that know don't need much time splaining!)
I bought 2 LSS chassis from MDT. One for a Tikka 243 t3 lite, and a Tikka 22-250 heavy barrel. No other modifications to the guns were ever made. I use Hornady factory ammo, and am amazed at the accuracy! Pistol grip and collapsible stock were the main reasons for converting, but I think the accuracy improved slightly as well.
The vast majority of rifle owners don’t understand this. “Why spend over a $1000-1500 on a rifle”!? “I can get 1moa from my budget rifle all day”? You have to minimize POA shift, thank you for this demonstration with very clear results.
I built one savage 116 and one rem 700p in two of their frame and i saw improvement. Yes they were expensive projects but that was the rifle i wanted to built.
I'm old enough to have seen the genesis of stocks since 1980, wood stocks, it was all about the looks, 1987 wood stocks with pillars, people starting to take accuracy of hunting rifles seriously, 1993 synthetic stocks come on the scene followed shortly by aluminum bedding blocks in them, those dominate the scene for 15yrs then come the full chassis stocks. I'm late to the chassis stock party but wow do I love them! Started with a MDT on my NRL22 Tikka and now a 700 remington MDT stock.
If you could win benchrest, PRS, or NRL with a stock Savage everyone would be doing it. But a stock Savage in 2019 is a phenomenal rifle and beats the pants off anything from 30 years ago. Very nice video and nice way to illustrate how changing the variables of a rifle impact accuracy. Good Job!
Dr David The new barrel only had 10 rounds to zero. Obviously the factory barrel had roughly the same amount since it was already zeroed for the video. The new barrel was still better...
Yeah, most ppl say it takes on average about 60 rounds through a new barrel till you accomplish copper equilibrium, the point where enough copper is built up from each projectile that it then doesn’t ‘leave any copper behind ‘ anymore.. At Copper equilibrium is where every barrel shoots best and how fast you get there depends on ammo and barrel..
@JKay11235 Are you the shooter in the video? There's good evidence that even most world class shooters have a "warm up" period even if it's only one or two rounds. If they haven't shot for a few days and aren't doing daily dry fire practice, even more so. I know I've gone out and made first shot cold bore hits at 930yd, but I've also had groups that string a little bit because *something* is off, and it takes a second to settle back in. I'm not sure the target distance matters so much, groups are groups. Simple math for dispersion at distance.
The shooter here demonstrated his knowledge and skill too, that is the most important factor to good shooting. At any rate no doubt an adjustable chassis, match grade barrel, match ammunition and smooth trigger all contribute to the results.
Incidentally, one can be lucky. I bought a new-old-stock Long Branch Enfield .303 (made 1943). Using extremely cheap surplus cordite Iraqi (yes really) ammo, I was shooting groups at 700mtrs (basically1/2 mile), using Parker Hale aperture sights. I ended up with results highly similar to the other shooters who were using the most sophisticated rifles money could buy. Other Enfields I've had are only just "ordinary". Now and again a mass produced rifle is sometimes perfect, as it seems as if my Enfield is. I've seen this with Ford cars. Occasionally, you get one that performs better and is more reliable than the vast majority of the other ones.
F class RIfles at 700 yards can shoot groups on 3'' hockey pucks and Bench guns can shoot sub 2'' groups at 600 yards sounds like you should show up with your Enfeild and mop the floor lol!
I built almost the same rifle... About the same time this video was released too ! 😉 But this is the first time I've seen this, and I've watched a lot of your videos. Savage LH action w/extended bolt handle / Bob Jury 22" 1:8 Hvy-Varm bbl / MDT LSS LH chassis & skeleton carbine stock/ Atlas bipod / Vortex Viper 6-24x * I'm having the bbl threaded and installing a 3-port brake soon, then having the whole lot Ceracoated FDE... Currently running "50-shades of black". 😐
My comment is the same as everyone else's but, I think, from a different angle. It's this: A good stock (and I'm sure the MDT chassis is going to provide excellent stabilization) is important for accuracy -- but it's not going to make a crap rifle (crap action or crap barrel, or both) better. It's only going to ALLOW a good action and good barrel to shoot as well as they can.
Naturally when you move from a pencil barrel to a bull barrel it's gonna tighten up the groups and tame the rifle and recoil quite a bit. It would have been a more fair test to use a new custom barrel that was similar in weight and dimensions to the factory barrel that you replaced. Doesn't have to be exact, but jumping from a thin barrel to a mega thick barrel isn't really a fair test.
I don't really agree with that. Sure it firing fast a thin barrel will heat up quicker, or a bull barrel will dissipate heat better. But I've had some very thin barrels shoot extremely well and some bull barrels that were disappointing. Granted with "all else being equal", if that happens in the real world, a bull barrel (more ridgid, better heat dispersion) will generally shoot better.
A lot of people cannot afford the upfront cost of a more expensive rifle, this gives them time behind the trigger gaining knowledge and experience as they practice, and then gives them an opportunity to customize it for themselves and make it their own.
I like trying to squeeze the most out of my rifles, and I tend to try everything that is practical. reloaded ammo can be customized to an individual rifle and will help a lot. so will adjusting the trigger for a smooth light pull. but changing the barrel is something that is pricey and if it's not done right may not help either so I tend to leave that out unless it the only way to get good results. Most times it's not.
About 7 years back I got tired of my Savage 110e 30.06 (obviously a Long Action) hunting rifle gathering dust (disabled veteran, and I have not been able to hike the hills much less drag a deer doing it) so I did some research and being a channel that did a lot of reviews and testing, I contacted a few companies to see if they would provide some parts for this special project (which also was posted on Weaponeer.net at the time, which is currently down for a complete rebuild for the first time in 17 years). Now the original stock was a laminated wood stock, and my 30.06 165gr HPBT Gameking loads were good for 1- MOA, so the build was changing barrels and calibers to 6.5mm Lapua (this was a custom SS barrel with 5/8 threaded muzzle and not one of the drops in units, and the trigger was replaced with a Timney Trigger, a 5/8 Muzzle brake attached and a Choate modular tactical stock replaced the original stock. I ordered some factory 6.5 Lapua ammo from Lapua and we then headed to the range with the new build. the Choate stock also used aluminum bedding and every review I read at the time stated it would greatly improve accuracy, so i was expecting good work from the new rifle (the purpose of this build was could you take an old hunting rifle, and turn it into a Sniper rifle with good performance) the resulting 5 shot group on a windy day with the target vibrating resulted in a group that was much smaller than a dime. Now could the MDT stock result in even better performance? Potentially... but two area's I think where the MDT stock would improve the build is weight.. the Choate stock is not all that light.... in fact it has enough weight that I don't shoot it off the shoulder and I don't use the semi pistol grip stock, i just place my thumb behind the trigger guard and index finger on the trigger and squeeze and the stock really does not move (not that the 6.5mm Lapua has a lot of recoil). the second area the MDT is likely to be an improvement is ergonomics. the semi-pistol grip is about 3 times to big for me and I have large hands. this is one area of the choate stock I don't like. as a master armorer and a disabled veteran w/18 years service, I have never qualified less than expert with the M16 rifle, so I prefer M16 ergonomics. and simple ergonomics can effect your group size. So theoretically the MDT stock could make my rifle even more accurate than it already is, but that's just theory lol. I should note, that we do plan on redoing this test at some point in the future with a stock better suited for "me" with a before and after group for everyone to see. will it be an MDT Stock? maybe/maybe not, because stocks at this upper end are costly (at least they are when your budget comes from an Army disability pay check lol) all I can say is wait and see.. we also will be using the high speed camera so we can watch for things you don't normally see, so it should be interesting when we run it. and as always Y.M.M.V.
@@MDTTAC budget is always a concern. High speed cameras, lights and lenses are expensive. lol we will check Oryx out (and obviously other companies) for this latest test project. (wish we could test them all). we also recently finished a Rem 700, 300 RUM with a super long custom barrel for some special 5000 fps sabots as well as AP testing (no sponsors for the 300 RUM build).
I’ve had the same original Savage 110 in .270 completely factory, not even a $200 scope, and any factory hunting ammo I’ve put through it shoots just as good as all that aftermarket crap at 100yrds. Now given some time and tinkering around with making up some hand loads, and best five shot group is dime sized. Consistently shooting quarter size. Good enough for me.
this is what i call a review/comparison change one thing at a time and show the difference am so sick of comparisons that change/compare apples to oranges [eg. change ammo, barrel, chassis and brand of rifle in one go and claim its better. what part made the difference and how much] other reviewers take note. bye the way a mdt is now on the shopping list thank you
I agree!!! I have a savage axis XP that I've only put a bipod and an old Leupold vx2 scope and it shoots sub moa with both 150gr corelokt and 165 gr Hornady customs and 165gr Hornady full boar with the gmx bullets
Very interesting. No, I don’t want to replace everything but this video does show the effect different pieces make. A great argument for quality if precision shooting is your goal.
Just put an MDT LSS on my Howa 6.5 CM and what difference it made, compared to the Hogue stock it came with. More consistent 1/2" groups with handloads. Good video.
I honestly would have enjoyed this a bit more with some more info. What was your average moa size at each step of the experiment? What was the moa difference between the final product and the starting product? How much did all of the improvements cost? I'm not an expert shooter by any means, but with my stock model 11 I can shoot sub 2 moa at 100 yards with Wolf ammo. And I'm sub 1 moa with Sierra match king gold. That wolf is around 40cpr and the Sierra is under $1 most places. I'd love to know how you aren't getting 1 moa at 100 yards with $2.50 per round ammo? If it takes $1,000 in upgrades to get sub moa, you need to spend less on gear and more on ammo and range time.
We did the overlay of grouping circles as a lot of people don't have a full understanding of the MOA measurement so it was just easier to give a visualization of them. As for pricing, he started with "cheap" ammo that runs about $15 a box to premium ammo that runs about $50 a box, then added an MDT LSS-XL chassis ($499) and MDT Skeleton Rifle Stock ($299) and then added a custom barrel ($600). All the prices are up here in Canada where we have to factor in the exchange and an extra distributor or two, Federal Gold Medal Match is what he was shooting retails for $49.99 a box.
I just ordered mdt setup for savage LRH 11 in 308. Currently I'm grouping sub MOA at 200 yards using hand loads if I do my part. I'll check back in with upgrade once done.
I bought an old shot out savage 12 vlp for dirt cheap. New barrel (Shilen 6.5)in the MDT HS3 chassis, with a Bushnell ffp hdmr 2 scope and it shoots 1/2 moa all day If I'm doing my job with factory ammo. Hand loads I have it well under 1/2 moa, from the bench. I've been plucking yotes out around 5-700 yards average. With 2 taken at 1000 yards. But my hunting rifle is a Tikka in 270wsm, and damn, even with the plastic stock, (I put in a titanium recoil lug that's it) with Fed blue box, the thing shoots around .5 moa. off the bench, doing my part as well. Shoots fusion just as well, so I haven't reloaded for it yet. Might for an Elk hunt next year, but we'll see.
MDT LSS worked for me. better precision. Looks great. I prefer the feel of a stock, but worked so well, I bought a 2nd. It took a really good shooting Savage and made it even better. No I don't work for them. I could have gone with a premium stock, but LSS was a lower cost build. Do I NEED this level of precision to deer hunt? No, but I enjoy it at the range, a lot.
I have 3 centerfire Savage rifles, my handloads beat ALL "match" labeled ammo tried with zero modifications to the factory eqpt. Are my handloads going 1.5 MOA? No, each rifle averages under .8 MOA. The point is Savage has different quality levels, pick your level, buy that and shoot mid- or better-quality ammo. You get better when buy carefully.
My thought on this going in was okay we can see how we can better ourself as a shooter and improve. What i got out of it was. Just do a full build of the highest quality parts and premium ammo.
The Savage is a hunting rifle. The groups achieved with cheap or expensive ammo were good enough for most hunting applications. That said it is a far cry from $5,000 plus long range custom rig. The bottom line is, you get what you pay for.
I just bought a Savage Model 10 fluted threaded heavy barrel. The stock is plastic. I’m seriously considering buying this chassis system. I have a theory, don’t miss what you shoot at. So I take my own advice and order one of these
The unitized action/stock is the basis for understanding where the rifle is pointed, as well as a platform for consistent recoil resistance and minimum arc of movement. Next thing that's important is the stock must fit the shooter to advance the factors of a steady position: muscular relaxation, bone & artificial support, and natural point of aim. Next, a match grade barrel better assures a trajectory which has a definitive and uniform arc from shot to shot. Add a trigger which can be pulled SMOOTHLY plus Match Grade Ammunition and a properly trained shooter can display marksmanship all the way out to the distance the bullet begins to fly erratically and tumble end over end. The bottom-line is top accuracy is not a budget friendly activity. However, even when budget does not preclude a shooter from having the best equipment, that does not negate the shooter's need for marksmanship training for best outcomes.
MDT chassis are very well made and used by some rifle companies on their competition rifles. I may buy one for my .300 Win mag Remingington 700/HS Precision target rifle. My 6.5 PRC Browning X-bolt Pro is a "semi-custom" rifle with a factory lapped barrel. Yeah, it is a skinny, fluted barrel but it is factory glass bedded in a carbon fiber stock and I get 1/2 MOA with 143 gr. Hornady ELD-X Precision Hunter ammo. (Bushnell Elite LRTS 4.5 - 18 x 44 scope, G3 reticle) With handholds I expect even better results. Redding Precision dies coming soon. And OK, that skinny barrel limits me to 5 shots before it heats up and produces MOA and a bit larger groups but this is a HUNTING rifle. Five shots should never, ever be necessary on game.
We are always glad when customers are happy with your customized system and are able to ShootBetter. If you want to be able to customize it further and have more options to make it fit your body better, we will be happy to help with that.
Yeah I have the stock ( except for the scope rings) savage trophy hunter xp in .308 I shoot 150 gr fusion ammo and shoot way tighter groups then this guy with the " premium" ammo. All this is in my opinion is if your bad at shooting just keep spending money until you realize you should have just gone to the range more.....
My Savage .308 FCP 20", in an AccuStock, shot .443" groups after just torquing the action properly, with Federal Gold Match 175 gr.. But I'm still intending to buy an XL Gen 2 for it. FYI: With NATO 147gr ball, not nearly as consistent, with Atomic match, better but not nearly as good as the Federal. Many folks find that their particular rifle, regardless of the caliber or Mfg, may prefer a particular brand and bullet. Hand loaders do a lot of work to develop the best load for their rifle(s).
Excellent video, very informative. Definitely the right steps in getting top performance out of your stock rifle every beginner should see this video. Then you can make yourself a very informative decision in your purchase of your long range precision rifle either purchased that or build your own
I suggest shooting, (and thinking) for at least 1000 rounds before you add anything you think might help, (other than a good initial set up, including cleaning the cosmoline out of the barrel). Why? Because it is probably impossible to figure out if your groups are getting better because of the add-on's, or because you are just figuring out how to shoot the gun with practice, (which is always a factor hardly admitted). IMO, if you really take the time to figure out the new gun, you will find any rifle should be able to shoot 1" groups at 100 yards, if the gun is manufactured decently and you took the time to figure it out.
Was that Savage factory rifle barrel even SEASONED at all with about 50-100 rounds to build up copper fouling to tighten up the bore so it'd be a fair fight?! I've seen those shoot .5 MOA with cheap ammo!
Many people want to control this themselves, rather than having a factory assembled rifle. And it is an enjoyable thing to do. But if you want to buy a chassis rifle complete ready to go, you can do so. For example the Remington 700 Chassis Rifle, Savage Stealth or Mossberb MVP LC!
Dont waste your time or money on the aluminum chassis riffles meaning the Remington 700 or the savage version cause i can’t justify 2300$ for something you probably won’t shoot better than sub half moa if you are lucky. Spend $1000 on a savage model 10 with the accutrigger and aluminum bedded and throw a primary arms 4-14x30 and a muzzle break on it and you’ll do the same thing. Unless you shoot all the time or have the money don’t waste your money on a wannabe rifle like the $2300 Remington. Go all the way and get a sako or cooper or something even better.
Cool summary! How about adding a moderator, a good bipod (like an Atlas) and a monopod in the back? The MDT chassis really works, and helps those other accessories to be on tight to deliver that accuracy. And yeah, that scope rocks :)
We can't speak too much on suppressors as they are illegal for civilians where we are located. Muzzle brakes will help reduce your recoil adding to the pleasure of shooting and reducing flinch. As for the bipod and monopod, adding stability and finding what works for you will definitely help with accuracy once you have a repeatable rifle.
the improvement is probably due to your consistent eye placement and recoil absorption by the adjustable stock. you could spend $20 and build a good cheek riser on the plastic stock.
Great video mate, points people in the right direction simply. The remark about the "plastic stocks", do you apply that to stocks like the GRS Berserk ? Cheers Wayne.
Good afternoon and greetings from the UK , really informative video about the improvements you can make. However i’m a little disappointed at the out of the box accuracy of the standard rifle in your video . Having grown up watching films of guys shooting and hunting in the states ( unfortunately we cannot here as we don’t have the wide open spaces ) is it possible to have a handsome sporting rifle with wooden stock that shoots well ? I have heard of the Remington 700 - is that a decent rifle ? Kind regards
Hello Marty, Glad to hear you enjoyed the video. Since we are primarily focused on how we can improve your rifle, it wasn't the main focus; rather, it was establishing a baseline. Of course, it is! But an aluminum chassis is a very viable option for a lot of people since the average person can install a chassis quickly and usually with stellar results! Rifles are a personal preference, and they are all excellent choices.
The new ESS chassis for my savage. 338 will be money well spent. This will cost me over $1000, on top of my rifle, but that is still a huge savings over say a Barrett MRAD rifle system that costs $6000, a huge savings. Remember this is a 338 Lapua and they are expensive..
Savage model 10 fcp is aluminum bedded. I’m shooting 1/4 moa in a good day with the gun in a out of box configuration. Only mods is muzzle break and bipod but you don’t need fancy things to shoot well. It helps but it’s all in your pull. It has a 1.5 pound trigger that is honest the best stock trigger I’ve felt in a bolt gun. I’m used to fancy triggers growing up but this feels no different. Would recommend
Good shooting is all about executing two firing tasks, these tasks are known as the principles of marksmanship: properly point the rifle with consistent sight alignment and pull the trigger without disturbing aim utilizing SMOOTH trigger control.
The accuracy of a gunpowder powered weapon is: When the projectile, associated blast energy gases travel down the barrel at the same rate (together)... anything else is mostly shooter error (bad eyesight), or serious flaws with the weapon... (Winchester used to offer one on their weapons) this is exactly what their muzzle bullet drop compensator will dose, by controlling the rate that the gases escape... even the cheapest ammunition can achieve MOA accuracy...
I would like to see the result of him building a cheek piece on the factory stock. I have a savage model 10 fcp-sr with the factory stock and a cheek piece built of foam. it carries a half min group with hand loads. Just by building the cheek piece it went from about a 2 min group down to a half min. I would also like to see him have a more steady shooting position and talk about his aiming point. Shooting at the circle in the center vs shooting at the corner of that black square could tighten up his groups significantly. Not to say the new chassis doesn't improve accuracy but I know the savage rifles shoot better than he does...
This is one of the other plus sides to our chassis system and fully adjustable buttstock, it gives you a solid, repeatable cheek piece to get a proper sight picture with adjustable length of pull, vertical and cant of the buttpad to fit your body.
I have to say I'm very happy with my Ruger 308 Shot 8 rounds to obtain Zero. Then followed up with 5 rounds. Believe it or not, all 5 rounds are touching aka one complete hole within 1". That was the first time out.
when I can afford a MDT barrel I will be buying 3 of them for my Mossberg Patriot 308. Mossberg Patriot Bushmaster 450 & My Adams Arms 556 AR and then see what resolve I get.
Hi James, MDT makes chassis and accessories for bolt action rifles, this video shows upgrading to our chassis and then taking it a set further with another manufacturers barrels, the barrel installed here was an IBI (International Barrels Inc) We would be happy to get a chassis on the Patriot's and other accessories on the AR. Reach out to us if we can be of any help through our support portal.
With a decent scope and good ammo savage model 11 ball shoot against anything on the range. I would advise cleaning the copper out of that barrel about every 12 shots!! And good shooting mechanics and habits will make more of a difference than all the bells and whistle‘s in the world!!
Most impressive factory firearm I have seen, for its age and wooden stock is a Finnish M39 in 7.62x54R............shoots 0.5 moa at 100 and 200 metres. Granted it has a heavy barrel standard, we didnt even tune up the handloads, just used a starter load from a website. My question is............why did the factory barrel improve so much when it was hot?? Usually its the opposite?
I’m new to precision rifles, question when he change the chassis how do the magazine catches on to the new chassis did he had to modify the receiver? Or is it the way the new chassis was build ?
Ryan mentions at about 6:44 that he shot 10 rounds to zero the rifle, then shot those groups, so no break-in. Most people believe in breaking in a barrel which the theory behind is to season it so it will stay accurate for a longer period of time.
Hi Matthew this is Ryan. Most custom barrels are cut with a lot of attention to detail and with much better tolerances. Hopefully sharp reamers are used and it gets chambered by a competent gunsmith. "Break in" periods are a really personal thing. Some people truly believe it helps and some don't. What it comes down to is what gives you the most confidence in your equipment. If breaking in the barrel makes you feel better then go for it! Confidence in gear is extremely important. The IBI barrel in the video was brand spankin' new. Zero rds through it before we started. I shot 10 or so to zero and then carried on. I knew how it was going to shoot because I've had the exact same or better results with other brand new IBI barrels. Stand by for another video coming shortly of a length VS velocity VS weight VS accuracy! That was a fun and informative one. Maybe not what you might expect. R
Currently there isn't anything in the works for the A7 but there is a product request option at the bottom of each of our web pages to help us determine where the demand is for rifle offerings.
So you are telling me a model 11 has worse groups at 100 yards than my base model savage axis. I know that the MDT chassis is wonderful, but at 100 yards their shouldn’t be that big of a difference. Should have used a bench rest and not relied on human error. The gun shot better as it heated up(is that the gun or is that the person shooting it)
We are not saying anything other than what is posted, we are showing the results that we got and showed you how they were obtained. Ryan is a very accomplished shooter. We are always open to new suggestions on how to showcase our product and if you would like to discuss it further we would love to talk to you, give us a call!
Hi . i currently have a LSS Chassis n my 6 .5 x 55 my Question is . Would a HS3 be much better for tighter Groups . i like to start shooting longer range to 1000 m or more ... Or your New LSS Gen 2 Chassis ... they are both about 90 mm longer
MDT - Modular Driven Technologies - My first chassis was/is an LSS-XL for a Howa in 6.5 Creedmoor. After having to buy all MDT magazines that still don’t feed smoothly and a tiny NV hood that cost $75, my second chassis was an XRL Element that sold for the same price, but that isn’t the price they normally go for (looks like the MDT HS-3). It takes all AICS magazines, and the old Howa in 6.5 Creedmoor is now mounted in the XRL. I put my .308 in the MDT, and my Creedmoor XRL now gets even tighter groups with less effort. To be fair, getting any chassis is expensive and I saw a major improvement in my accuracy from the MDT, and it’s significantly less money than almost anything else you’ll find.
Man... so glad I came across this. I've not seen guys shoot a stock rifle, then do things to IMPROVE it's accuracy. I love it. Shows the before, after, I wish more Channels would take an approach like this every once in a while.
I enjoy buying a stock rifles Then improving on the rifle over time ... He did what me and most my friends do over a couple years . He just did it all at once . I built my savage model 10 fcp-sr the same same way just use a manner's t4 stock instead . ( Stock was used E-BAY special for $450) . That's why I don't have the MDT chassis now.
So the moral of this story, how to get your factory rifle to shoot better. change everything except the action
tiputipu777 including the shooter lol
Lol
Greg Beals - Given the rule of thumb that your scope should cost at least as much as the entire projectile-launching-device if it’s supposed to be equal to the optic, $700 is for the budget-minded, not the serious shooter.
Price the three most commonly suggested bipods (Atlas, Accu-tac and GG&G) before you stop laughing.
MDT, itself, is the lowest end chassis’s one can find. XRLs are somewhat competitive and definitely superior.
Not to mention 50$ a box .308 ammo
Kansa City Shuffle - You’d think, given how 6.5 Creedmoor has established itself as the new standard for this caliber/class, there would be quality, match-grade .308 going for $10 a box.
$50 a box? The fact that it sells defies all I know about supply and demand.
Great video, I have taken all those steps, and I can confirm that the MDT chassis or similar rigid bedding will make a real world difference.
I really appreciate this concise, practical approach to improving accuracy on a standard firearm, straight out of the box. This video is made by an expert marksman (ex-military, I presume) who offers everything we need to know to fit our budget in one succinct presentation. (Thems that know don't need much time splaining!)
Thank you for the kind words!
I bought 2 LSS chassis from MDT. One for a Tikka 243 t3 lite, and a Tikka 22-250 heavy barrel. No other modifications to the guns were ever made. I use Hornady factory ammo, and am amazed at the accuracy! Pistol grip and collapsible stock were the main reasons for converting, but I think the accuracy improved slightly as well.
great video, appreciate you taking the time to demonstrate how each modification contribute to the accuracy of the gun
No problem :)
The vast majority of rifle owners don’t understand this. “Why spend over a $1000-1500 on a rifle”!? “I can get 1moa from my budget rifle all day”? You have to minimize POA shift, thank you for this demonstration with very clear results.
I built one savage 116 and one rem 700p in two of their frame and i saw improvement. Yes they were expensive projects but that was the rifle i wanted to built.
I'm old enough to have seen the genesis of stocks since 1980, wood stocks, it was all about the looks, 1987 wood stocks with pillars, people starting to take accuracy of hunting rifles seriously, 1993 synthetic stocks come on the scene followed shortly by aluminum bedding blocks in them, those dominate the scene for 15yrs then come the full chassis stocks.
I'm late to the chassis stock party but wow do I love them! Started with a MDT on my NRL22 Tikka and now a 700 remington MDT stock.
If you could win benchrest, PRS, or NRL with a stock Savage everyone would be doing it. But a stock Savage in 2019 is a phenomenal rifle and beats the pants off anything from 30 years ago. Very nice video and nice way to illustrate how changing the variables of a rifle impact accuracy. Good Job!
Awesome video to show why precision rifles cost what they do. Great job
I have to wonder if that factory barrel needed some breaking in, and that played a role as well, vs shooting better as it heated up
Dr David The new barrel only had 10 rounds to zero. Obviously the factory barrel had roughly the same amount since it was already zeroed for the video. The new barrel was still better...
Yeah, most ppl say it takes on average about 60 rounds through a new barrel till you accomplish copper equilibrium, the point where enough copper is built up from each projectile that it then doesn’t ‘leave any copper behind ‘ anymore.. At Copper equilibrium is where every barrel shoots best and how fast you get there depends on ammo and barrel..
@JKay11235 not to mention.. the shooter had time to warm up
@JKay11235 Are you the shooter in the video? There's good evidence that even most world class shooters have a "warm up" period even if it's only one or two rounds. If they haven't shot for a few days and aren't doing daily dry fire practice, even more so. I know I've gone out and made first shot cold bore hits at 930yd, but I've also had groups that string a little bit because *something* is off, and it takes a second to settle back in. I'm not sure the target distance matters so much, groups are groups. Simple math for dispersion at distance.
@@meals24u I was thinking that cleaning the barrel would remove the copper, so you never clean your barrel ?
The shooter here demonstrated his knowledge and skill too, that is the most important factor to good shooting. At any rate no doubt an adjustable chassis, match grade barrel, match ammunition and smooth trigger all contribute to the results.
Incidentally, one can be lucky.
I bought a new-old-stock Long Branch Enfield .303 (made 1943). Using extremely cheap surplus cordite Iraqi (yes really) ammo, I was shooting groups at 700mtrs (basically1/2 mile), using Parker Hale aperture sights. I ended up with results highly similar to the other shooters who were using the most sophisticated rifles money could buy. Other Enfields I've had are only just "ordinary". Now and again a mass produced rifle is sometimes perfect, as it seems as if my Enfield is.
I've seen this with Ford cars. Occasionally, you get one that performs better and is more reliable than the vast majority of the other ones.
F class RIfles at 700 yards can shoot groups on 3'' hockey pucks and Bench guns can shoot sub 2'' groups at 600 yards sounds like you should show up with your Enfeild and mop the floor lol!
I built almost the same rifle... About the same time this video was released too ! 😉 But this is the first time I've seen this, and I've watched a lot of your videos.
Savage LH action w/extended bolt handle / Bob Jury 22" 1:8 Hvy-Varm bbl / MDT LSS LH chassis & skeleton carbine stock/ Atlas bipod / Vortex Viper 6-24x
* I'm having the bbl threaded and installing a 3-port brake soon, then having the whole lot Ceracoated FDE... Currently running "50-shades of black". 😐
Nice! make sure to share pictures on social media once you have it together, would love to see it.
My favorite rifle Savage FCP model 10 sr... I get groups like you costume build. That accu stock and trigger absolutely awesome 😎👍💯🇺🇸
My comment is the same as everyone else's but, I think, from a different angle. It's this: A good stock (and I'm sure the MDT chassis is going to provide excellent stabilization) is important for accuracy -- but it's not going to make a crap rifle (crap action or crap barrel, or both) better. It's only going to ALLOW a good action and good barrel to shoot as well as they can.
Naturally when you move from a pencil barrel to a bull barrel it's gonna tighten up the groups and tame the rifle and recoil quite a bit. It would have been a more fair test to use a new custom barrel that was similar in weight and dimensions to the factory barrel that you replaced. Doesn't have to be exact, but jumping from a thin barrel to a mega thick barrel isn't really a fair test.
I don't really agree with that. Sure it firing fast a thin barrel will heat up quicker, or a bull barrel will dissipate heat better. But I've had some very thin barrels shoot extremely well and some bull barrels that were disappointing. Granted with "all else being equal", if that happens in the real world, a bull barrel (more ridgid, better heat dispersion) will generally shoot better.
But, if you are going to by a rifle, that you will change the chassis/stock and the barrel, why not buy a better rifle off the shelf?
A lot of people cannot afford the upfront cost of a more expensive rifle, this gives them time behind the trigger gaining knowledge and experience as they practice, and then gives them an opportunity to customize it for themselves and make it their own.
I like trying to squeeze the most out of my rifles, and I tend to try everything that is practical. reloaded ammo can be customized to an individual rifle and will help a lot. so will adjusting the trigger for a smooth light pull. but changing the barrel is something that is pricey and if it's not done right may not help either so I tend to leave that out unless it the only way to get good results. Most times it's not.
I haven't changed anything on my sako shoots great gonna stay tht way
A Sako is a whole different kettle of fish. Manufactured to exacting tolerances, so unlike mass manufactured US products.
About 7 years back I got tired of my Savage 110e 30.06 (obviously a Long Action) hunting rifle gathering dust (disabled veteran, and I have not been able to hike the hills much less drag a deer doing it) so I did some research and being a channel that did a lot of reviews and testing, I contacted a few companies to see if they would provide some parts for this special project (which also was posted on Weaponeer.net at the time, which is currently down for a complete rebuild for the first time in 17 years). Now the original stock was a laminated wood stock, and my 30.06 165gr HPBT Gameking loads were good for 1- MOA, so the build was changing barrels and calibers to 6.5mm Lapua (this was a custom SS barrel with 5/8 threaded muzzle and not one of the drops in units, and the trigger was replaced with a Timney Trigger, a 5/8 Muzzle brake attached and a Choate modular tactical stock replaced the original stock. I ordered some factory 6.5 Lapua ammo from Lapua and we then headed to the range with the new build. the Choate stock also used aluminum bedding and every review I read at the time stated it would greatly improve accuracy, so i was expecting good work from the new rifle (the purpose of this build was could you take an old hunting rifle, and turn it into a Sniper rifle with good performance) the resulting 5 shot group on a windy day with the target vibrating resulted in a group that was much smaller than a dime. Now could the MDT stock result in even better performance? Potentially... but two area's I think where the MDT stock would improve the build is weight.. the Choate stock is not all that light.... in fact it has enough weight that I don't shoot it off the shoulder and I don't use the semi pistol grip stock, i just place my thumb behind the trigger guard and index finger on the trigger and squeeze and the stock really does not move (not that the 6.5mm Lapua has a lot of recoil). the second area the MDT is likely to be an improvement is ergonomics. the semi-pistol grip is about 3 times to big for me and I have large hands. this is one area of the choate stock I don't like. as a master armorer and a disabled veteran w/18 years service, I have never qualified less than expert with the M16 rifle, so I prefer M16 ergonomics. and simple ergonomics can effect your group size. So theoretically the MDT stock could make my rifle even more accurate than it already is, but that's just theory lol. I should note, that we do plan on redoing this test at some point in the future with a stock better suited for "me" with a before and after group for everyone to see. will it be an MDT Stock? maybe/maybe not, because stocks at this upper end are costly (at least they are when your budget comes from an Army disability pay check lol) all I can say is wait and see.. we also will be using the high speed camera so we can watch for things you don't normally see, so it should be interesting when we run it. and as always Y.M.M.V.
Yes, our chassis systems should be able to help you with improved Ergonomics, if your budget is a concern check out our sister company Oryx.
@@MDTTAC budget is always a concern. High speed cameras, lights and lenses are expensive. lol we will check Oryx out (and obviously other companies) for this latest test project. (wish we could test them all). we also recently finished a Rem 700, 300 RUM with a super long custom barrel for some special 5000 fps sabots as well as AP testing (no sponsors for the 300 RUM build).
Awesome!
I’ve had the same original Savage 110 in .270 completely factory, not even a $200 scope, and any factory hunting ammo I’ve put through it shoots just as good as all that aftermarket crap at 100yrds. Now given some time and tinkering around with making up some hand loads, and best five shot group is dime sized. Consistently shooting quarter size. Good enough for me.
Yes, getting a dialed-in hand load can definitely help improve your accuracy
this is what i call a review/comparison change one thing at a time and show the difference am so sick of comparisons that change/compare apples to oranges [eg. change ammo, barrel, chassis and brand of rifle in one go and claim its better. what part made the difference and how much] other reviewers take note. bye the way a mdt is now on the shopping list thank you
Just bought the LSS for my Remington 700 varmint. So excited 😀😀😀
Good to hear! If you have any questions or we can help with anything, let us know.
A good chassis is better than the original stock it replaces but you got to know how to torque the action screws to get the most accuracy.
Yes, action screw torque can be a worthwhile test, for the most part, our V-Block minimizes this, but it's always worth a try!
The last 2 things you said in the video are the most important, training and the "Mental Game" BTW love my LSS-22 w/SCS
Yes, once you have those two things down, they will help propel you beyond everyone else, once you have all the other basics taken care of.
My mentor say's I definitely have my "Mental Game" going above others.
I like Ryan Cleckner's advice: focus on the reticle, not the target
and steady pressure on the trigger.
Everything else be as consistent as possible.
Facts
I dunno Ryan, I think a lot of that inaccuracy is user error :P
Well MDT is Canadian so... I noticed the same thing and I'm a horrible shot.
I agree!!! I have a savage axis XP that I've only put a bipod and an old Leupold vx2 scope and it shoots sub moa with both 150gr corelokt and 165 gr Hornady customs and 165gr Hornady full boar with the gmx bullets
I'm dead on at 100 yards with 150gr and 1 inch high with 165gr
Evan Valek if you’re saying Canadians are inaccurate, no disrespect but we produce the best marksman on the planet. Military and civilian.
it all comes down to if you can aford the cost modifying your rifle that way and what sort of shooting do you do ,hunting or bench at the range.
Very interesting. No, I don’t want to replace everything but this video does show the effect different pieces make. A great argument for quality if precision shooting is your goal.
Just put an MDT LSS on my Howa 6.5 CM and what difference it made, compared to the Hogue stock it came with. More consistent 1/2" groups with handloads. Good video.
Good to hear! Glad you are happy with it!
I honestly would have enjoyed this a bit more with some more info. What was your average moa size at each step of the experiment? What was the moa difference between the final product and the starting product? How much did all of the improvements cost?
I'm not an expert shooter by any means, but with my stock model 11 I can shoot sub 2 moa at 100 yards with Wolf ammo. And I'm sub 1 moa with Sierra match king gold. That wolf is around 40cpr and the Sierra is under $1 most places. I'd love to know how you aren't getting 1 moa at 100 yards with $2.50 per round ammo? If it takes $1,000 in upgrades to get sub moa, you need to spend less on gear and more on ammo and range time.
We did the overlay of grouping circles as a lot of people don't have a full understanding of the MOA measurement so it was just easier to give a visualization of them.
As for pricing, he started with "cheap" ammo that runs about $15 a box to premium ammo that runs about $50 a box, then added an MDT LSS-XL chassis ($499) and MDT Skeleton Rifle Stock ($299) and then added a custom barrel ($600).
All the prices are up here in Canada where we have to factor in the exchange and an extra distributor or two, Federal Gold Medal Match is what he was shooting retails for $49.99 a box.
I just ordered mdt setup for savage LRH 11 in 308. Currently I'm grouping sub MOA at 200 yards using hand loads if I do my part. I'll check back in with upgrade once done.
Awesome, great to hear it!
I bought an old shot out savage 12 vlp for dirt cheap. New barrel (Shilen 6.5)in the MDT HS3 chassis, with a Bushnell ffp hdmr 2 scope and it shoots 1/2 moa all day If I'm doing my job with factory ammo. Hand loads I have it well under 1/2 moa, from the bench. I've been plucking yotes out around 5-700 yards average. With 2 taken at 1000 yards.
But my hunting rifle is a Tikka in 270wsm, and damn, even with the plastic stock, (I put in a titanium recoil lug that's it) with Fed blue box, the thing shoots around .5 moa. off the bench, doing my part as well. Shoots fusion just as well, so I haven't reloaded for it yet. Might for an Elk hunt next year, but we'll see.
MDT LSS worked for me. better precision. Looks great. I prefer the feel of a stock, but worked so well, I bought a 2nd. It took a really good shooting Savage and made it even better. No I don't work for them. I could have gone with a premium stock, but LSS was a lower cost build. Do I NEED this level of precision to deer hunt? No, but I enjoy it at the range, a lot.
I have 3 centerfire Savage rifles, my handloads beat ALL "match" labeled ammo tried with zero modifications to the factory eqpt. Are my handloads going 1.5 MOA? No, each rifle averages under .8 MOA. The point is Savage has different quality levels, pick your level, buy that and shoot mid- or better-quality ammo.
You get better when buy carefully.
If you F with Hickok45 you F with me and many free, red blooded, god fearing Americans. WE stand by you Hickok. Thanks for all you do.
My thought on this going in was okay we can see how we can better ourself as a shooter and improve. What i got out of it was. Just do a full build of the highest quality parts and premium ammo.
Thank you for your feedback. We will likely do a video such as that in the future!
The Savage is a hunting rifle. The groups achieved with cheap or expensive ammo were good enough for most hunting applications. That said it is a far cry from $5,000 plus long range custom rig. The bottom line is, you get what you pay for.
I just bought a Savage Model 10 fluted threaded heavy barrel. The stock is plastic. I’m seriously considering buying this chassis system. I have a theory, don’t miss what you shoot at. So I take my own advice and order one of these
The unitized action/stock is the basis for understanding where the rifle is pointed, as well as a platform for consistent recoil resistance and minimum arc of movement. Next thing that's important is the stock must fit the shooter to advance the factors of a steady position: muscular relaxation, bone & artificial support, and natural point of aim. Next, a match grade barrel better assures a trajectory which has a definitive and uniform arc from shot to shot. Add a trigger which can be pulled SMOOTHLY plus Match Grade Ammunition and a properly trained shooter can display marksmanship all the way out to the distance the bullet begins to fly erratically and tumble end over end. The bottom-line is top accuracy is not a budget friendly activity. However, even when budget does not preclude a shooter from having the best equipment, that does not negate the shooter's need for marksmanship training for best outcomes.
Love it chassis
Thank you so much!
MDT chassis are very well made and used by some rifle companies on their competition rifles. I may buy one for my .300 Win mag Remingington 700/HS Precision target rifle.
My 6.5 PRC Browning X-bolt Pro is a "semi-custom" rifle with a factory lapped barrel. Yeah, it is a skinny, fluted barrel but it is factory glass bedded in a carbon fiber stock and I get 1/2 MOA with 143 gr. Hornady ELD-X Precision Hunter ammo. (Bushnell Elite LRTS 4.5 - 18 x 44 scope, G3 reticle) With handholds I expect even better results. Redding Precision dies coming soon. And OK, that skinny barrel limits me to 5 shots before it heats up and produces MOA and a bit larger groups but this is a HUNTING rifle. Five shots should never, ever be necessary on game.
My experience with that rifle was put a Boyd’s stock that’s bedded and pillared with hand loads is 1/2 moa all day.
We are always glad when customers are happy with your customized system and are able to ShootBetter. If you want to be able to customize it further and have more options to make it fit your body better, we will be happy to help with that.
Love the look of that rifle after it was customized.
I won't. I refuse.
Great vid
Best comparison videos Ive seen. Really good! A shame that I can not seem to find a chassi for my old (rebarreled) tikka m65
Yeah I have the stock ( except for the scope rings) savage trophy hunter xp in .308 I shoot 150 gr fusion ammo and shoot way tighter groups then this guy with the " premium" ammo. All this is in my opinion is if your bad at shooting just keep spending money until you realize you should have just gone to the range more.....
My Savage .308 FCP 20", in an AccuStock, shot .443" groups after just torquing the action properly, with Federal Gold Match 175 gr.. But I'm still intending to buy an XL Gen 2 for it.
FYI: With NATO 147gr ball, not nearly as consistent, with Atomic match, better but not nearly as good as the Federal. Many folks find that their particular rifle, regardless of the caliber or Mfg, may prefer a particular brand and bullet. Hand loaders do a lot of work to develop the best load for their rifle(s).
Tikka T3X factory stock barrel, Viper PA 6.5-20 and handloads shoots 5/8" 100 yards. Total is about 1000
I would like to know after all the new parts, how much do you have in the rifle?
Excellent video, very informative. Definitely the right steps in getting top performance out of your stock rifle every beginner should see this video. Then you can make yourself a very informative decision in your purchase of your long range precision rifle either purchased that or build your own
I suggest shooting, (and thinking) for at least 1000 rounds before you add anything you think might help, (other than a good initial set up, including cleaning the cosmoline out of the barrel). Why? Because it is probably impossible to figure out if your groups are getting better because of the add-on's, or because you are just figuring out how to shoot the gun with practice, (which is always a factor hardly admitted). IMO, if you really take the time to figure out the new gun, you will find any rifle should be able to shoot 1" groups at 100 yards, if the gun is manufactured decently and you took the time to figure it out.
Agree with you 100%.. I can group my 357 just fine with no help at all
My stock savage model eleven .308win is just as accurate as his all supped up and mine is stock
That just makes me wonder what will yours do if you hot rod it
Was that Savage factory rifle barrel even SEASONED at all with about 50-100 rounds to build up copper fouling to tighten up the bore so it'd be a fair fight?! I've seen those shoot .5 MOA with cheap ammo!
Shoot .5 MOA with my factory savage barrel all day long. Love em. No need to change em.
What’s the point of buying a rifle if you have to rebuild it with different parts!🤔
Many people want to control this themselves, rather than having a factory assembled rifle. And it is an enjoyable thing to do.
But if you want to buy a chassis rifle complete ready to go, you can do so. For example the Remington 700 Chassis Rifle, Savage Stealth or Mossberb MVP LC!
Dont waste your time or money on the aluminum chassis riffles meaning the Remington 700 or the savage version cause i can’t justify 2300$ for something you probably won’t shoot better than sub half moa if you are lucky. Spend $1000 on a savage model 10 with the accutrigger and aluminum bedded and throw a primary arms 4-14x30 and a muzzle break on it and you’ll do the same thing. Unless you shoot all the time or have the money don’t waste your money on a wannabe rifle like the $2300 Remington. Go all the way and get a sako or cooper or something even better.
@@MDTTAC Would this chassis work if I bought only an action and custom barrel instead of the whole rifle?
Yes absolutely. You can drop the barreled action into the chassis, and it's good to go!
The same thing can be said for Jeeps and sports cars and Glocks and computers and boats and, well, just about any hobby you can think of.
was the Premium ammo used with the aluminum stock and better barrel? Would be interesting to see how it fared with the better barrel and stock.
good basic steps to improve your shooting.
one thought will a better trigger help at all ?
A better trigger can always be a benefit!
Great video great editing
Good video, quick and to the point in all aspects.
Cool summary! How about adding a moderator, a good bipod (like an Atlas) and a monopod in the back? The MDT chassis really works, and helps those other accessories to be on tight to deliver that accuracy. And yeah, that scope rocks :)
We can't speak too much on suppressors as they are illegal for civilians where we are located. Muzzle brakes will help reduce your recoil adding to the pleasure of shooting and reducing flinch. As for the bipod and monopod, adding stability and finding what works for you will definitely help with accuracy once you have a repeatable rifle.
I have the mdt tac 21 chassis for my Remington 700 police mdt has the highest quality in my opinion it’s 100% worth it
Thank you!
Next your going to want to upgrade that action to a big horn or a Curtis custom and your savage model 11 will be shooting just like a custom comp gun.
Awesome. Exactly what I wanted to see. Great vid guys. Thanks.
the improvement is probably due to your consistent eye placement and recoil absorption by the adjustable stock. you could spend $20 and build a good cheek riser on the plastic stock.
Yes, the improved ergonomics is a large part of what our chassis systems offer.
Great video mate, points people in the right direction simply. The remark about the "plastic stocks", do you apply that to stocks like the GRS Berserk ? Cheers Wayne.
Hi Wayne, we would not classify the GRS berserk as such.
Good afternoon and greetings from the UK , really informative video about the improvements you can make.
However i’m a little disappointed at the out of the box accuracy of the standard rifle in your video .
Having grown up watching films of guys shooting and hunting in the states ( unfortunately we cannot here as we don’t have the wide open spaces ) is it possible to have a handsome sporting rifle with wooden stock that shoots well ? I have heard of the Remington 700 - is that a decent rifle ?
Kind regards
Hello Marty, Glad to hear you enjoyed the video. Since we are primarily focused on how we can improve your rifle, it wasn't the main focus; rather, it was establishing a baseline. Of course, it is! But an aluminum chassis is a very viable option for a lot of people since the average person can install a chassis quickly and usually with stellar results! Rifles are a personal preference, and they are all excellent choices.
Savage makes the BEST $80.00 barrel in the world. I believe Jack Krieger said that.
My Savage FV SR 22lr rifle will shoot groups inside of the best groups in this video.
The new ESS chassis for my savage. 338 will be money well spent. This will cost me over $1000, on top of my rifle, but that is still a huge savings over say a Barrett MRAD rifle system that costs $6000, a huge savings. Remember this is a 338 Lapua and they are expensive..
Sounds good, if you have any questions about the options of the ESS please reach out to our support team and we will be happy to help!
Savage model 10 fcp is aluminum bedded. I’m shooting 1/4 moa in a good day with the gun in a out of box configuration. Only mods is muzzle break and bipod but you don’t need fancy things to shoot well. It helps but it’s all in your pull. It has a 1.5 pound trigger that is honest the best stock trigger I’ve felt in a bolt gun. I’m used to fancy triggers growing up but this feels no different. Would recommend
1/4 MOA?
Yeah, right!
Good shooting is all about executing two firing tasks, these tasks are known as the principles of marksmanship: properly point the rifle with consistent sight alignment and pull the trigger without disturbing aim utilizing SMOOTH trigger control.
The accuracy of a gunpowder powered weapon is: When the projectile, associated blast energy gases travel down the barrel at the same rate (together)... anything else is mostly shooter error (bad eyesight), or serious flaws with the weapon... (Winchester used to offer one on their weapons) this is exactly what their muzzle bullet drop compensator will dose, by controlling the rate that the gases escape... even the cheapest ammunition can achieve MOA accuracy...
Mission Rod and Gun, my favourite club!
Great video. MDT makes good stuff.
I like the video very informative. Do you mind telling what's the custom barrel you used here?
It's a custom barrel from Internation Barrels. internationalbarrels.com/
@@MDTTAC Thank you for sharing
Was it the gun heating up or putting some rounds down a new barrel? But really enjoyed the video!
I would like to see the result of him building a cheek piece on the factory stock. I have a savage model 10 fcp-sr with the factory stock and a cheek piece built of foam. it carries a half min group with hand loads. Just by building the cheek piece it went from about a 2 min group down to a half min. I would also like to see him have a more steady shooting position and talk about his aiming point. Shooting at the circle in the center vs shooting at the corner of that black square could tighten up his groups significantly. Not to say the new chassis doesn't improve accuracy but I know the savage rifles shoot better than he does...
This is one of the other plus sides to our chassis system and fully adjustable buttstock, it gives you a solid, repeatable cheek piece to get a proper sight picture with adjustable length of pull, vertical and cant of the buttpad to fit your body.
Great video! Can you say that most of the Original Savage Barrel shots walked around because of the barrel getting hot?
Thank you, no, not with any certainty. Each barrel made is an individual, and it's impossible to predict how it will react.
Hey isint this the same guy from weapon hunters. Sniper episode.
I have to say I'm very happy with my Ruger 308
Shot 8 rounds to obtain Zero. Then followed up with 5 rounds. Believe it or not, all 5 rounds are touching aka one complete hole within 1".
That was the first time out.
Glad to hear it!
Savages tight chambers don't usually like m80 ball ammo. Was the brass hard to extract?
It wasn't too bad! Extraction will vary rifle to rifle though.
when I can afford a MDT barrel I will be buying 3 of them for my Mossberg Patriot 308. Mossberg Patriot Bushmaster 450 & My Adams Arms 556 AR and then see what resolve I get.
Hi James, MDT makes chassis and accessories for bolt action rifles, this video shows upgrading to our chassis and then taking it a set further with another manufacturers barrels, the barrel installed here was an IBI (International Barrels Inc) We would be happy to get a chassis on the Patriot's and other accessories on the AR. Reach out to us if we can be of any help through our support portal.
With a decent scope and good ammo savage model 11 ball shoot against anything on the range. I would advise cleaning the copper out of that barrel about every 12 shots!! And good shooting mechanics and habits will make more of a difference than all the bells and whistle‘s in the world!!
Nice video MDT 👍and nice to see that you did it at Mission shooting range!
Yes we did, it's one of the few ranges close by and it's usually pretty quiet during the week.
I bought a sako 300 win mag for $1500 shoots pretty damm good gotta steiner scope on it
Most impressive factory firearm I have seen, for its age and wooden stock is a Finnish M39 in 7.62x54R............shoots 0.5 moa at 100 and 200 metres. Granted it has a heavy barrel standard, we didnt even tune up the handloads, just used a starter load from a website. My question is............why did the factory barrel improve so much when it was hot?? Usually its the opposite?
I’m new to precision rifles, question when he change the chassis how do the magazine catches on to the new chassis did he had to modify the receiver? Or is it the way the new chassis was build ?
I have .308 in scout,manlicher,,can u tell me if its a good gun or not,,any brother can share his view,,
Interesting. Very nice video. How about do one for .22 rifle? Maybe do one next time?
We will definitely consider it! Thanks
Wad the new custom barrel broke in? I hear that is an important step, but I'm not sure how true it is. I'm excited to hear some input
Ryan mentions at about 6:44 that he shot 10 rounds to zero the rifle, then shot those groups, so no break-in. Most people believe in breaking in a barrel which the theory behind is to season it so it will stay accurate for a longer period of time.
Hi Matthew this is Ryan. Most custom barrels are cut with a lot of attention to detail and with much better tolerances. Hopefully sharp reamers are used and it gets chambered by a competent gunsmith. "Break in" periods are a really personal thing. Some people truly believe it helps and some don't. What it comes down to is what gives you the most confidence in your equipment. If breaking in the barrel makes you feel better then go for it! Confidence in gear is extremely important. The IBI barrel in the video was brand spankin' new. Zero rds through it before we started. I shot 10 or so to zero and then carried on. I knew how it was going to shoot because I've had the exact same or better results with other brand new IBI barrels.
Stand by for another video coming shortly of a length VS velocity VS weight VS accuracy! That was a fun and informative one. Maybe not what you might expect.
R
Great Tutorial - loved your step by step methodology.
Thanks for the feedback!
good day! How soon will you start making the MDT system for Sako A7 ????
Currently there isn't anything in the works for the A7 but there is a product request option at the bottom of each of our web pages to help us determine where the demand is for rifle offerings.
So you are telling me a model 11 has worse groups at 100 yards than my base model savage axis. I know that the MDT chassis is wonderful, but at 100 yards their shouldn’t be that big of a difference. Should have used a bench rest and not relied on human error. The gun shot better as it heated up(is that the gun or is that the person shooting it)
We are not saying anything other than what is posted, we are showing the results that we got and showed you how they were obtained. Ryan is a very accomplished shooter. We are always open to new suggestions on how to showcase our product and if you would like to discuss it further we would love to talk to you, give us a call!
Great video, Thx for putting it out. Aside from the comment about ammo, what would you do for an AR10 or AR15?
Good ammo, good glass and a good barrel. Then..... practice.
My 700 rem 25-06 shoots 5/8 inch groups at 100yds the only thing ive done to it is a new Timney trigger
2506 is my favorite it bites no kik
Hey just curious what range this is? Also planning to pick up your lss 22 for my mark ii and one for my savage 12
This is at the Mission BC Rod and Gun club. Give us a call if you need assistance with your LSS purchase :)
Very interesting video, thanks!
I just was able to hit some 3 square inch steel at 400 yards with my 243
Good shooting!!
243 gang all the way
Hi . i currently have a LSS Chassis n my 6 .5 x 55 my Question is . Would a HS3 be much better for tighter Groups . i like to start shooting longer range to 1000 m or more ... Or your New LSS Gen 2 Chassis ... they are both about 90 mm longer
But what if you want to keep it light and slick because you hunt with it? What is a light replacement stock suitable for that task?
You would want our HNT26 for that. mdttac.com/hnt26-chassis-system/
The video is by MDT. Of course it shot better. What else was one to expect?
pppaulie73 of course. But you will have similar results. We guarantee it.
I wasn't aware MDT produced and sold premium ammo and barrels...
Everyday American - Good point!
We don't
MDT - Modular Driven Technologies -
My first chassis was/is an LSS-XL for a Howa in 6.5 Creedmoor.
After having to buy all MDT magazines that still don’t feed smoothly and a tiny NV hood that cost $75, my second chassis was an XRL Element that sold for the same price, but that isn’t the price they normally go for (looks like the MDT HS-3).
It takes all AICS magazines, and the old Howa in 6.5 Creedmoor is now mounted in the XRL.
I put my .308 in the MDT, and my Creedmoor XRL now gets even tighter groups with less effort.
To be fair, getting any chassis is expensive and I saw a major improvement in my accuracy from the MDT, and it’s significantly less money than almost anything else you’ll find.