Sump Pump Running But Not Pumping Out Water | 3 Fixes
Вставка
- Опубліковано 13 лип 2024
- Complete List of Recommended Tools - www.amazon.com/shop/everydayh...
At least in my area, a properly running sump pump is critical for any home with a crawlspace and more importantly basement. I will walk you through the 3 troubleshooting steps I took recently to fix my sump pump which was running but not actually pumping water past the check valve and out the discharge pipe. This type of issue can cause thousands of dollars in damage and is something that could be avoided in most scenarios.
Free Home Maintenance Checklist
everydayhomerepairs.com/home-...
Chapters
0:00 Intro (My Recent Issue)
0:39 My Sump Pump Setup
1:38 1st Step: Float
3:08 2nd Step: Check Valve
5:55 Removing Sump Pump From Pit
6:12 Overview of Primary and Secondary Sump Pump
8:38 3rd Step: Confirming Weep Hole
10:00 Confirming We Fixed The Issue
13:10 What A Weep Hole Looks Like During Pumping
13:28 My Next Step and Recommended Sump Pump Brand/Model
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. - Навчання та стиль
This was a life saver! Thank you very much! I had unplugged the sump pump for a water dept inspection. Forgot to turn it on for 24 hours and it was NOT going down. I never thought of the water level beneath the house until I watched this. It took a while to pump out but good to go now.
Thank you for your reviewing this important component in everyone’s domain! All I needed to do was to move the rubber stopper on the floater stem a little higher up; it appeared to be gumming up and not allow it to reset. Saved me easily from spending $180. Bless you!!!
Thank you so much for posting this. Just had our sump pump replaced by professionals, who put the check valve in UPSIDE DOWN. But I was able to figure that out after watching your video, seeing that my pump was doing exactly the same thing, and I approached it with a plan and a calm mind instead of totally panicking. Love your videos.
Woke up last night hearing a loud humming. Went downstairs and the sump was running but not moving water (unplugged it). Went down today and did your check. Pump is pumping, check valve ok and weep hole ok. But when I loosened the check valve band clamp water was rushing down from the discharge pipe. I checked outside (pipe goes into the storm pipe). I guess a mouse or chipmunk crawled down storm pipe (small space between downspout and storm pipe which I sealed) and into the pump pipe and built a nest. I went back down and reinstalled everything, plugged it in and it cleared/emptied the sump pit. Great info - thanks so much!
Thank you very much for extremely clear advice and tips.
Thanks so much! My sump had the same issue and I added an angled weep hole and now it works great! Your content is clear, well organized, and super useful. Thanks again!
I just installed a sump pump in my backyard. After days of trench digging and pipe fitting in the sun I was finally ready to test. It ran without moving water, I almost cried. Then I realized I installed the check valve upside down.
The Y design in the pit is simply wrong. You need separate discharges for each pump reaching above the lid. Then each discharge goes into its own check valve. Then you can add a Y after the check valves so it shares the rest of the piping. The way this is shown in the video each pump is pushing water backwards into the other pump. This is more noticeable when the primary pump fails and the 12 v pump runs. The failed primary pump will be back feeding water into the pit as the 12v pump runs.
I'm researching this very problem, so; each pump should have it's own check valve..
@@markszablewski6619 Neil is right, you pumping out water like you have a 1/3 pump and it looks like your main is a 3/4 and your secondary is a 1/2 horsepower, got horses, you just short a check valve and in the wrong spot, note I believe the main is a plastic impeller while your secondary has the metal impeller, that would also mean if everything is running and main is still failing, the impeller might be broke from swallowing an object (but at least barracuda sells the piece).
You are spot on Neil, and that is the reason why I believe his setup takes so long to eject the water out of the sump - his setup is circulating some of the water back into the sump - so you need the two check valves indeed. Also, the two cords connected into the outlet is not for two pumps - the first plug connected into the outlet is a piggy back cord coming from the float switch and the pump power cord connects into that. If one connects the pump power cord directly into the outlet, the pump will run continuously.
Years back I had a sump pump failure and resorted to a small pump to tide me over until repair/replacement. I had a small pump designed to remove water from my above ground swimming pool cover. That little champ did the job. It chugged water from my sump well through an attached garden hose and into my laundry room set tubs. I did not have a shut off switch so I would unplug it when the well was empty to spare the wear and tear. I was alert to any rain forecasts and would scamper into my basement to plug my cover pump back in. It was not the ideal solution but it was better than trying to empy the well with a bucket and much better than mopping up the floor. It also helped that I was past the Spring thaw when the basement is most inclined to flood.
Great video! Your current design has too many check valves, the one at the top is not necessary and redundant. Most sump pumps dead head (max psi at 0 gpm flow) at 8.68 psi or 20’ ft of head or less. All chech valves cut the flow rate. The cords should be coiled and supported where they are plugged in (use zip ties if necessary), this will eliminate some switching problems that can occur because of the cords in the wrong place. The Zoeller pump is a better choice than the one in the pit. The Zoeller pump is a vortex design that is why the weep hole is necessary. On a vortex design the impeller creates a whirlpool in the pump to pass the water, if the pump has been in for a while and the water has dried up, it cannot prime itself because it is in the pump cavity at the top and air being inside it will not push the air out and thus becomes air bound. The weep hole allows the water to fill the pump cavity and then the pump will pump. Personally I like one pump with a tethered float setup for maximum flow (largest tether) made by a Wayne Pump in Harrison, Ohio. This has an impeller in the pump cavity that doesn’t need the weep hole. My sump pit discharges water at 7’ of head and dumps into a 4” corrugated pipe and then gravity flow from there, I buy model SPT33 1/3 HP (other HP’s are available on line at Menards) which is more than enough for my application and very economical. Your plumbing could also use a little change, try 2 …..45 degree elbows instead of the 2 …..90 degree that you have, less restriction, more flow. Being in the Midwest there is another reason a pump will not pump and that is a frozen pipe where the water goes outside. This is a little harder to remedy but try a small weep hole at about a foot below where it goes outside, attach some tubing at this point (use a tee in pipe) and drain back into the pit (a 1/4 turn undersink ball vave can be used here and shutoff from April to November). The Barracuda pump is a private label brand sold by Menards, being out of the business for over 10 years I do not know who makes it for them. Thanks…Jim
great video, I have 2 sump pumps in my basement and I know nothing about them (lol) can’t wait for you new install video
Installing it as I type this. Video will be out in a day or 2 👍
Great video. A couple things to add that you might look for (just happened to me and I almost was about to unnecessarily replace my pump)... For my pump setup, the 1-1/2 pvc discharge pipe goes up, then makes a little downward turn and connects to a cast-iron sewer line. I discovered 2 issues: (1) Over time, sediment and little rocks that accumulated in the pit caused my check valve to get filled with a silty/clay type mixture. This caused the check valve to get super-clogged (which you covered nicely in your video). I took the check valve off and cleaned it thoroughly outside with my garden hose until all of the sludge was gone and the flap was flapping/seating properly. When I reconnected the check valve and tested the pump, it still continued to cycle (I also had previously drilled the little relief hole so I knew that wasn't my issue). Issue (2) I found next which was the biggest culprit was a near-total obstruction where the pvc discharge pipe connected to the cast iron. It connected via a threaded pvc fitting/coupling going into the cast-iron which created a slight reduction in overall "flow" size when you tied in from your 1-1/2 inch pvc discharge pipe into the male fitting that screws into the cast-iron . I figured this out by running a handheld snake up through the pvc discharge pipe (where the check-valve would usually be) to try and get through to the cast-iron pipe. Once the snake got close to where I figured it should be entering the cast-iron, I realized that it wasn't moving and was totally blocked! When I pulled the snake back out, the length of cable confirmed I had an obstruction just before the coupling and the snake had some of that clay type sludge on it. Since all of my pvc joint were glued in place and I had braces holding the pvc against the wall, I decided to cut the pvc about a little under a foot away from the coupling (I made 2 cuts and removed about an inch of pvc pipe to make a gap that I could later reconnect with a flexible coupling and clamps). When I removed the threaded coupling with about 10 inches of pvc pipe still connected from the cast iron , I saw that the coupling and about 5-6 inches of pvc before the coupling was basically 100% blocked with little rocks, pebbles and the clay sludge. I took the coupling and pvc pipe outside and blasted it with water from my garden hose until it was 100% clean. I reinstalled the coupling to the cast iron, connected the pvc to the rest of the pvc discharge pipe with a rubber coupling/clamp, reinstalled the check valve and everything worked perfectly again. I should have mentioned it before, but I always wear thick rubber gloves when working on any types of pumps (even ones that are only for storm-water/drain-tiles). I hope this helps someone else because I was about to go buy a new pump which would not have solved my problem since the discharge line was obstructed. I forgot to also mention, there is a cleanout for the cast iron about a foot below where the pvc ties in and that was clean/no water backing up when I opened that, so if I didn't try to snake up from where the check valve was, I would not have found the obstruction and I would have installed a new pump for no reason.
Very interesting. I wonder if the check valve was stuck and got unstuck when you unscrewed it. I am glad we don’t have this in Florida. You really have some work to do Thank you for sharing
I think the pump got airlocked but not 100%. Just installed the new Zoeller M98 today with the install video coming out tomorrow 👍
Just a thought, since you said that you only have one check valve located above both pumps, isn't it possible that the one pump running is simply sending a bunch of water down through the one next to it creating a loop? Love your videos man!
That's what I'm thinking.
During "normal" operation some of the water makes it out of the house and some gets pumped back in pit. All is good, basement stays dry.
However, during heavy rain event more water volume is making it to the sump.
Now existing pump set up can't send enough water out of house. Basement gets wet.
Yep totally agree. If this setup functioned correctly at one time, which it must have, then making a design change (weep hole) should not be necessary.
@@jimh1996 it can be necessary, some pumps have a built in weep hole, like zoeller pumps have. Zoeller themselves recommend adding a secondary "weep hole" in the discharge pipe, often the built in hole can get plugged up from dirt or rust or other debris.
That’s exactly what is happening.
You might try moving the check valve a few feet higher. On that setup there has a quite tall column of water heavily sitting on the top of that check valve. The dual pumps might even need separate vertical-discharges sections so that each check valve doesn't' have so much water sitting on them.
Thanks Bob 👍 I am actually working to install that Zoeller M98 right now.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs It's not likely to help. You need the checkvalve between the pump and the Y. Otherwise, with one pump operating, it just pumps it backwards through the other pump. You're CERTAINLY NOT going to generate enough pressure to lift the checkvalve with its standing water keeping it closed, past the Y to get it out of the basement.
Raising the checkvalve won't help unless you're very lucky.
The most convenient way to do this is to put a checkvalve right on EACH pump, then Y their outlets together. I have something similar, with a big submersible with the checkvalve right on top, then up the wall and just before the wall I Y-in the tubing from a battery pump via ANOTHER checkvalve.
But remember, the checkvalves MUST be between the Y and the pumps.
I suspect this thing was cobbled together while the pit was dry, and it never got fully tested. If both pumps were running, it might work (as long as the pumps were roughly equal).
2 smaller ck valves always worked for me.
thanks for this video very helpful
While going through my pump's installation (comments below), I thought about something that you said. You mentioned that your basement bathroom's ejector pump feeds your sump. Probably not a good idea to go dipping your hands (and watch) in blackwater or having blackwater discharge out into your yard (if that's where the sump pump's discharge goes).
Absolutely no way a toiiet should ever discharge into a sump pump - esp one that has a loose fitting lid and no vent. Unless I missed something. The bathroom sink and shower water would be ok. Rainwater would be ok. But never toilet water. And the comment on where to place a check valve on each pump is right on (i.e., one check valve per pump).
Thanks for a great explanation, tutorial. I'll pull my pump out to see if there's a weep hole!
A little while later...check valve checked and confirmed to work properly, absent weep hole drilled, me realizing that I should pay closer attention to where the clamps go and/or use a brighter work light (it's OK, I'll dry out). Pump works as it should now. Thanks again!!!
Thanks for sharing this. Your video generated some very good comments. Joe Pie’s is exceptionally good.
Very informative video. I have never seen a sump pump that slow. I realize that there was some water backed up in the 3 inlet pipes - mine does the same thing - but my little 1/2 horse pump will empty a full sump that is up to the very top and overflowing - like after a short power failure - in 20-30 seconds. After the initial emptying, the inlet pipes will fill the sump enough to turn on the pump again in a minute or less but at the point the pump empties the pit in 10-12 seconds. Remember - this is only a 1/2 HP pump... not a larger 3/4 or 1 HP unit.
Nice video this really helped me and saved my money ❤😊
House I grew up in had a dirt cellar. Dad had two sump pumps hooked up. One higher then the other for those rain soaked days. Sure don't miss that cellar anymore.
Waiting on your new installation video. I have one at a 2nd home & it's over 30 years old. I have a dehumidifier emptying into it too. Still works fine but I worry about it.
Will be published tomorrow morning 👍
Thanks!
One other sump pump thing: after a 24 hour power outage that rained a lot, I installed a water-powered backup, that doesn't require any battery or AC power. It uses municipal water pressure to pump the sump water and saved me when my old sump pump failed. It uses a fair amount of water, but that expense is cheaper than water damage. Mine is paired with an alarm, so I know it is running. I have the Basepump, but there are other brands out there.
I had that system. It never run for years. When it was needed it was sized from years of not operating. I removed it.
@@circuitbreaker9001 I test mine twice a year. I've had no issues in the 4 years I've had it.
@@jimmypautz I guess I should have tested it more often. I did have it 7 years
How about the possibility of a clog in the drain pipe above the check valve? I'm wondering why you didn't try running the pump after loosening the clamp above the check valve (to create an artificial leak) to see whether water would be pumped out there. (To avoid a messy spray, you could drape a little "shower curtain" around the pipe & check valve before turning the pump back on.) If water is pumped out through this opening, wouldn't it imply the pump & check valve are okay and there's a clog in the pipe above (downstream of) the clamp?
My exact issue!
Helped 🎉
I used to have hose clamps in my pit and they were never reliable. I changed the plumbing to be only glued pvc joints in the pit and put the hose clamps above the lid only. After that I never had another failure of the clamps.
Guess my sump was sad and needed to weep. Total fixed my issue. Ty
Nice 👍 thanks for the support!
Great video...it reminded me of this one time in band clamp.
Each pump ought to have it's own check valve.
You are correct and I missed that on the video. Each pump did have a check valve coming directly off the threaded discharge port.
What about hearing water constantly trickling? I had the sump pump inspected and the company decided to put in a new sump pump. There had been a cinder block that they removed. It went from no noise to trickling water all the time.
Zoeller pumps are well built but float switches fail prematurely. Try Liberty as they are built pretty well without the flow switch challenges. In your setup use 1 Zoeller and 1 liberty and let us now how they are working in a few years
Oh man, thanks for the feedback. I had found several people saying the Zoeller switches are solid. I just install a Zoeller M98 today, video will be published tomorrow. I will checkout Liberty as Sump Pumps are something we take pretty seriously in our area since we have about zero elevation change and a high water table.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs You're a great guy and very thorough. Watched part 2 this morning. I couldn't wait to watch it. I'm not trying to "one up you" but put the weep hole should be just above the male adapter. Secondly, That pump cycles quite a bit in the video and I imagine between your high water table along with a heavy rain you could almost go with a continuous duty pump. All this might explain why you only got 2 years out of your original pump setup. Make sure that pump switch cover is tightened down from the manufacturer as your water level appears to immerse the complete pump during high influent of water from the 3 sources you have. Just a last thought...The 4" pipe brings in a LOT of water and it's hitting right on top of the float. Might increase pump cycle length and burn out pump prematurely. You can put a schedule 40 elbove dry fit to aim it away from the float. Bottom line is nice job, overall.
Thanks for this video. I am thinking of adding a secondary sump pump, in case the first one fails. I do have whole house generator. I would like your thoughts on what a bullet proof arrangement would be.
Also, can two sump pump be connected to same electric outlet?
They can, as long as you checkvalve BOTH sump pumps BEFORE they get Y-d together to a single outlet.
The infamous "no weep hole" issue. Very common to find that even plumbers wont drill one.
Every sump pump eventually fails. Just the better ones like that new green one he shows will last longer. But it will still fail eventually.
That’s why the most important part of the sump pump pit is a reliable working alarm system. You need alarm to tell you when pump fails BEFORE the carpet gets wet. If you mount the alarm sensor at the height just above the “on” level of the float it will give you the most advance warning. You might have several hours between alarm sounding and the flooding of the carpet. That gives enough time to replace the failed part before it floods.
I’ve had 6 or more pump failures in the 18 years at my house. But only the first one caused a flood before my alarm. All the other failures since then were detected by the alarm and repaired before any damages.
and a good insurance policy coverage every company offers water backup coverage, a fairly high-value add-on that costs as little as $30 a year on top of your standard coverage
Coverage amounts and availability of this endorsement vary by company and state, but companies generally offer anywhere from $5,000 to $25,000 in water backup protection. Its sort of my back up for my back up. Yes there is a deductible but at least you know your worst case scenario ie the deductible and you'll get new stuff
@@handdle-h2o I called my insurance company after my basement flooded and I lost thousands of dollars worth of property. They said the damage was not covered. I then inquired about water backup coverage add-on for future flood coverage. They said there is not anything available that would cover my specific issue - which is groundwater infiltration due to non functioning sump. The water was not backing up from the sewer pipe and was not backing up from the drainage pipe either. It was simply the natural water in the ground itself seeping into the drainage gravel underneath the basement floor. That level was rising and without a sump dewatering it eventually reached the basement floor level and above.
The battery operated water alarm is available at big box stores for approximately $10-$15 dollars and it gives you a “heads up” advance notice that something is wrong with the sump pump before room damage occurs. I also have one at the base of my tank water heater to alert me in case the water heater starts to leak.
Mine was running a lot. We could hear it turn on, then when it shut down, we heard a whooshing sound of the water coming back. To fix this, and since I did not know where the water was going, I added a French drain from the house to the street and directed the outlet to that drain pipe. I then replaced the 20+ year old sump pump and replaced the check valve and pipe to my new outlet. Once the new set up was done, that water goes to the street faster than I can get out of the basement and outside to see if the pipe is running.
From the looks of your pumps they appear to be old and must have worked for a long time without the weep hole. What changed?
More info about how air in the pipe can block the flow of water -- so that a weep hole is needed to allow the air to escape -- would be appreciated. My intuition is that the air would simply be pushed upward by the pressure of the water being pumped, and thus would not hinder the flow of water. Were you trying to say there could be so much trapped air that the pump's impeller is in the air, not submerged?
That’s my understanding of it.
1:59 I see one major problem.
You need two check valves before the wye fitting instead of one after.
Those pumps already come integrated with a weep hole for both pumps. Air lock is not an issue. My pump had a piece of stone stuck to the impeller. It only takes removing 4 screws to access it.
You should check to see that the pump intake is clear.
Thanks for the feedback Keith
Good Video. Please do you know why the pump keeps tripping my gfci outlet?
Just curious, don't you need a second check-valve for the other pump? Looks like the water will just circulate from one pump back down through the other>
Thanks
I just moved into a new house with a sump pump. I don't know anything about these things but I am paying close attention to this video. The previous owner had the sump pump discharge pipe dumping into the utility sink. I looked at this and immediately thought oh no. I have to re do this myself.
Actually, in some locations it's illegal to drain ground (sump-pump) water into the sewage system. And that's where your utility sink drains to.
New house first time dealing with sump pump. Previous owner had pump off and plugs inside the crock. Me not knowing I smelled standing water look around no water leak check sump pump it’s filled with mud . I clean out mud and the two pipes that are on each side coming into crock are filled with mud as well how far idk . My question is shd I use a super drain cleaner and suck it out ? Call a professional? I had to dry the plugs out for two days and haven’t turned on yet to see if pump is working due to not knowing how to handle the two pipes that are clogged . Any advice is greatly appreciated first time home owner
HELP please...
My situation is that my new 3/4 Hp Watchdog sump pump takes 30 to 60 seconds to build up enough pressure/strength to move the water out of my sump. I have a weep hole below my check valve. The weep hole works well but does only a slow flow until pressure builds and then sprays out hard indicating satisfactory pressure. Then the water goes up through my check valve and out. When I remove my head pressure, by draining the discharge tube first, then engage the pump, everything works great. Immediate evacuation takes place.
So is my problem some sort of airlock in the pump (that slowly corrects itself in 30 to 60 seconds) or is it too much head pressure?
Hello. I had my home gutted/remolded 2016/2017 here in Washington, DC and had my basement turned into an apartment with separate entrance from the side walk. I am just now looking to rent out my unit and always wondered about the sump pump. The plug with the little light on it (red), but the test button is mushed in; take it one of the contractors pushed it in too hard. Anyway, I took the cover from over the sump pump and there was water down in the sump and debris. I manually lifted the piece that raises when sump is filled with water and the water gushed out on the outside under the porch. So, I know the pump is working, just the plug is bad I suppose. I used a nearby plug, I sucked all the water out of the sump which had watery gray like sludge, take it from the construction, filled it with water. But now the water isn't being discharged, I just hear the humming sound from the pump. Is it now clogged inside the pump? In the mean time, I just found out about the check valve and it's function. It's clogged?
Honestly man I wish I could come give you a hug and share a beer. This video helped me save the day. Thank you so much man
Nothing beats a Zoller M98
Nice! Just installed the M98 today 👍
Pump yes, float switch no. Float switch dying is a common failure on these Zoeller's - mine just failed after 8 years. Would not reliably activate, but fortunately the water jet backup did. Good news is the float switches can be replaced without needing a new pump.
Does the weep hole also help create a burst of energy, water mixed with some air, to slam open a check valve that is slightly stuck or with water column weight on it?
Very through video. Too bad I am just not that handy 😀. What state do you live in again? 🤔
Barracuda is actually a solid brand, but they have a range of models. They are made by "Superior Pumps" and branded for Menards.
Good point Jimmy, I think all brands have their range of consumer and professional grade products.
I got a pump that runs and pushes water but sometimes i hear it running, and dont hear water moving.. but if i unplug it a second and plug it back in she pumps out. I thought maybe something got in the pit, and was blocking the intake but i cant find anything. You have any ideas on that?
Should always unplug the sump before reaching into the water to check the float is moving freely .
Mine seems to be draining but once gets to certain point it’s like spraying water up
Question: how long did you have this setup without a weep hole?
I’m not confident with your set up. I have two pumps in the same hole . The second pump is set a little higher on a cement block. I have a vent outside on each pipe. Two separate plugs two separate pipes no check valves so they can drain either way. Works great year round. I have a my D Link camera aiming at the hole so I can keep an eye on it while I’m away.
This does not fail.
For sure, I actually will be doing additional work (and videos) starting with installing the Zoeller M98 then working through some backup options.
Is that a Zoeller check valve? Do you have issues with it leaking?
So I have 2 sump pumps as well on two completely different areas of the basement. I heard the one running, which it never does, so I went down to check and the main pump that usually runs is full to the top with water and just making a buzzing sound. This pump is only about 5 years old. Help. It’s 11pm and I pray all will be well until morning when I can call a plumber and not pay overnight prices
Tighten up the clamps good!! That’s your problem!
Okay guys... looking for some advice... My Sump put, similar to the one in this Vid... has a 6 in PVC drain into it.... when we get heavy rains, water constantly runs into the Sump Pit from around that input pipe. Nearly impossible to Seal that from inside the pit, the hydrostatic pressure is too high. I am thinking maybe I just cut out the concrete NEXT to the pit, dig down to that feeder pipe and seal it from that outside of the Pit wall? Basically, whoever installed this did not use gaskets and just cut a hole in the side and ran the pipe thru. Which probably seemed great at the time, but they had no idea how much ground water presses up under the foundation.. thanks for any advice!
This video was very helpful my basement has been leaking from the foot of snow and week of rain in Michigan. I have been shop vacuuming the access points of my waterproofing system but it wasn’t keeping up . My sump pump then stopped working . I cleared out the valve because of your video and the pump worked again. It had some sediment stuck around the valve . I cleared it so the valve moved easily and back to normal . Thanks !
Well with mine, the switch would either stick on and off. My pump was over 10 years old so I replaced it. Yours didn't look that old, so you can replace the switch only.
Thanks for the lesson Scott. Great video both verbally and visually. I just inspected my Zoeller check valve that is installed on a pump used only for a basement sink and nothing else. The pump started cycling on every 10 minutes the other day. The flap appeared to be working well but I performed a second test by standing the unit in the sink and filling it from the top. The seal leaked into the sink right away just like a bad toilet flapper. I am off to the store to buy a new $22 unit and finish the quick fix. Thanks and stay well.
??? I was pumping out the pool, the the pump was left to run dry and the float had got stuck .Now the pump is dead .Can it be saved.
"This one time, with a band clamp..."
Is there a way to battery back up a sump without getting a second pump? Meaning a sump that is hard wired now, but lacks battery backup.
I will have a video coming out in the next 2 weeks that will test out the Ecoflow River Pro amzn.to/3KKOHaf . It is expensive but this will serve many purposes for me and I will do a trial to see how long it can run my Zoeller M98 Sump Pump that I just Installed today and video publishing tomorrow.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs awesome!
What if the check value isn’t closing all the way
You definitely shouldn’t have a trash pump/effluent pump. Running to your perimeter. Drain sump pump. Completely against all health codes.
Having an issue with mine, the float won't trip on its own
I need to do some outside repairs after my discharge pipe froze and burst. Any suggestions on installing a heat cable into the discharge pipe? Thanks for the clear explanations. You do a great job on your videos.
My outside pipe running to curb collapsed.
Made repair, then added an air gap where pipe comes out of house before it goes underground.
This way if underground pipe freezes or collapses, pumped water runs out onto ground and doesn't backup into sump pit.
There is a product called Freeze Relief.
Unfortunately my discharge is completely under grade until it exits at the street.
If your discharge is sloped properly it won’t freeze because it will be either empty or moving. Typically only standing water will freeze.
@@neilbrookins8428 Agree, it should have been done with more slope but unfortunately that was not considered in the design which is the reason it failed. I will fix the rupture, rather than dig up the whole yard and put in a heat cable. Just looking on some advice from others that have done a similar repair.
I hate owning a house 🫠
Can I have your old set up?
Our sub pump is brandmew
Sealing it keeps radon from escaping into the home
How is the toilet going into the sump pit? Is it on a grinder or is it just pee?
It is in another pit and the pump is a trash pump to handle the other "stuff"
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Ah.
Please help me!!! Water too murkyto see in the whole
Ive never once used a weep hole. Never caused an issue.
I have a question, if you have a sump pit can you seal it up with concrete if you no longer want it . ?????
You'll get water in your basement.
@@jimmypautz Yup. Concrete isn't waterproof.
Two everyday examples:
That's why shower cement underlayment has a waterproof barrier under it. That's why your basement has a waterproof barrier between the dirt and the concrete wall.
Use different electric circuits for each pump. Talking about hypotheticals in a video is meaningless. Asking viewers to visualize a hypothetical condition probably will only be frustrating for them. I would use a check valve for each pump to avoid recirculation and a possible jammed valve. Flooded basement if very frustrating and distressing. Your'e stressed from the last flooding and dreading the next one. You may want to install an alarm to sound when the water raises to an unexpected, undesirable level. Good luck.
I'm confused. You took things apart but, even though your pump wasn't working right, your check valve was fine, you drilled a hole in your discharge pipe, put it all back together and now it works properly? The lack of a small hole WAS NOT THE PROBLEM. I learned nothing about why your pump wasn't pumping.
You learned exactly why. His pump was air locked, and the small hole bled the air so the pump could work properly. Weep holes are required and are a standard item in the pump installation manuals.
As others have said, it's very weird setup having a check valve at the bottom of a vertical section of pipe. I'd think it should be in a horizontal section of pipe. If backflow ever did come in, it would just sit in that vertical pipe.
My water is murky and discusting
Hello! Whom I need to call about these problem .. Plumber or whom? Please tell me thanks !
Yes, plumber would handle sump pump issues.
🤓🖖✌👍👌😎
Sump pumps and drain tile are so stupid. Nothing more than a liability. I'm convinced that every home would be better off without them.
Take it from me. NEVER purchase a home with a foundation set close to the water table. Sadly, far too many homes were simply built where they shouldn't have been. I think every municipality which has allowed this should be held responsible and sued into oblivion.
I always found these setups to be foolish. Why would you have water drain into your house. You're already running the drains, just run it away from your house in the first place.
keep talking your the only Making use walking away from your site. Goodbye 👋
He’s got 306k subscribers so you leaving isn’t going to hurt his you tube money.
There are a number of issues with this guy's set up that are wrong. You should never have the cables bunched up and sitting in the water like he does. The slot in the lid should be covered/sealed the best you can to prevent radon from coming up. The only reason it's there is to allow for the varying locations that the pipe(s) coming up out of the pit might be at from one application to the next; with the expectation that the slot will then be covered. He's got too many right angles along the pipe. The only right angle there should be is the one where the pipe is exiting the house. But the most important mistake in his system is that he has both pumps sharing the same check valve. It might even be check valves plural because further up the pipe, it looks like he has another one. But either way, in a two-pump system, you never have the pumps sharing the same valve. In the event of a check valve failure where the flapper breaks off inside the pipe, plugs it (which is common) and prevents water from flowing up, it renders both pumps useless. I can see why this guy got water in his basement. He obviously doesn't know what he's doing.
New house first time dealing with sump pump. Previous owner had pump off and plugs inside the crock. Me not knowing I smelled standing water look around no water leak check sump pump it’s filled with mud . I clean out mud and the two pipes that are on each side coming into crock are filled with mud as well how far idk . My question is shd I use a super drain cleaner and suck it out ? Call a professional? I had to dry the plugs out for two days and haven’t turned on yet to see if pump is working due to not knowing how to handle the two pipes that are clogged . Any advice is greatly appreciated first time home owner