I see a lot of people on UA-cam showing how to wire a reversing switch on DC motors but not on AC. How do you wire up a direction switch on an AC motor, like a drill press or bench grinder? Can't you use a double pole double throw center off switch for that? Either a panel switch or wall switch? And how do you wire it into the connection box on the motor? I did it on my drill press with a four-way wall switch and a one-way wall switch for power. I know that they make a double pole double throw center off wall switch also. Some people say you have to use a drum switch but those things are pretty bulky and won't fit in my double gang box. Or do you have to use a triple pole double throw switch? My dad did it with a panel switch on his bench grinder back in the 40s or 50s.
I think of it like this load is go or what the power is going to and l(in)e is in or the power coming in, just a quick tip Incase somebody has trouble remembering
Hi, I am confused about the part where you showed the load wires. I have one black and one white wire. Did you color over one of the white wires and if you did why?
Are you wiring 120 or 240. I'm not an electrician. But i just removed one of those type of switche and wired white to white and black to black. Ground wire was already twisted together. Just did it at 3:00 o'clock November 16th.
just your journey toward journeyman. there are 7 or 8 periods, i forget. time gap is every 1000 hours where i was, or 6 months if you are working full time. higher the ranking the more knowledge and experience you have, and higher pay.
I want to get into the trade but im really hooked on just doing residential work. Id like to do install. Is it common for companies to employ people just to wire new houses? I really have no desire to go on service calls in the middle of the night lol.
Awesome video man! clear quality. what makes me question you is the when you say "I'll be showing you the 277v option" then you pan up the camera to show 120v colors. secondly please explain how this could even be 277v when im seeing 2 hots for your hvac unit. Lastly is using a sharpie to color a white wire black workmen like manner? tell whoever is running that jobsite to order the correct materials.
maybe I meant 208, oops. not sure, never been called out for using a sharpie to recolor a wire. if anything its more workmen like manner because it takes way longer and looks better, haha. but i would say it could rub/ "wash off" one day. always up to the inspector to haggle you, even if you are right...
I know this is going to be a stupid question, but when connecting the load wires or the even the line wires to the switch, does it matter left or right?
its marked line and load, so it matters that the lines go on line side and loads go on load side. but it doesnt matter which side of line goes left or right, or load left or right.
No, left or right does not matter is the answer you were looking for. As long as you have your load wires (lightswitch/water heater etc) on the load Terminals and your line wires (incoming power) on the line terminals.
Im having the same thoughts, im wiring a 240 garage heater with the switch as a disconnect, what im trying to figure out is if i have the switch grounded to the panel, do i need to run the ground wire from the heater to the switch as well and double it up. I cant find the answer.
rick yes, its tied back to the panel through all the grounds. tyler the heater should be grounded, wether its from the switch or somewhere else. assuming the heater is coming off the switch so yes it should be in the switch box
Wish I watched this a week ago... I did a triple pole switch which is line side (vertically) on one side and load on the other side. I applied the same logic to an entire building and after I was done realized I was horribly wrong 🤣.
If by 3 you mean 2 terminals plus a ground and by 5 you mean 2 black, 2 brass, one ground, thats a regular single pole switch and the other might be a 4 way
Good as far as it goes but doesn't show how to actually wire the switch. All 4 wires on your example are black. My load and line are the conventional white and black. Does that mean that the two black wires go to the black screws and two whites to the brass-colored screws which would make sense to me?
each brand is different, check the back of the switch for line and load markings. once you figure that out, each pair of wires stays together from the same 12/2. so one white and one black. remark the white as a hot (black or red)
@DailyElectrician I was confused here too. So you can just run 12-2 and have your white and black as both hots. So is there no neutral? Not even in the panel? I was assuming 12 -3 before this. Thank you for the content!
I applied for the apprenticeship and failed that shit now I have to be a R worker for another 6 months which sucks if I fail again I’m out . We literally do nothing like this all we do is bend pipe and run conduit and wire
Being an Electrician in Scotland working on commercial/Industrial installations. The accessories ie DP switches in the UK are much safer and more robust than the ones in the US, far too much exposed parts which make it unsafe to unscrew to check if dead or live in my opinion. Great video keep it up!
That’s the whole point of the switch. It’s for disconnecting power before you service the air handler unit. You don’t open the switch box to check if it’s dead. It’s only supposed to kill power on the load side of the switch. Line side will always remain hot unless you cut power upstream of the switch box. Do you know how electricity works?
@@RB-xv4si No shit sherlock but what happens when the switch fails and needs replaced? You prove dead before replacing. You have to unscrew the switch to access live terminals to prove dead. My point was UK accessories do not have live parts/terminals exposed in any way, you cannot physically put your finger on a live screw by mistake unlike the US accessories that have no barriers on there terminals. Are you even an electrician lmao.
@@iScoTT29 ever heard of multimeter there is a dial you can turn to continuity to check if it's live or not. The US system relies heavily on the fact the user coming into contact with a live, 110V wire is much less likely to die than his European counterpart, who would face a 240V AC potential on that same, exposed wire. They changed to 110 because at that time when electricity was getting popular 110 was safer than 240 so they stuck with it so we have 110(for older house, 115(if you have 3 phase wire), 120 for smaller appliances and 240 for big appliances.
@@AdamJames. Well straight away within your first sentence you haven't got a clue clearly. A multimeter on 'continuity' setting does not tell you if it's live or not, you my friend would be blown up if you tried that. A multimeter would be set to the 'Volts' setting to check if it was live or not.
I thought there were only three wires...red, black, and green. Red and black being 120 each. Why do you have 5. Probably a dumb question but I’ve watched a couple other vids and they only have 3. Thanks
incoming and outgoing power if i remember correctly. it is line and load, so one set of wires is power (and if theres 3 wires coming in the box, there are 2 sets of power wires pigtailed together) the other set goes to the unit like a switch leg. hope this helps :)
Very good video, easy explanation.
It's just what I was looking for.
Thank you and God Bless you
Happy to hear it was helpful 🙏🏼
I see a lot of people on UA-cam showing how to wire a reversing switch on DC motors but not on AC.
How do you wire up a direction switch on an AC motor, like a drill press or bench grinder?
Can't you use a double pole double throw center off switch for that? Either a panel switch or wall switch?
And how do you wire it into the connection box on the motor?
I did it on my drill press with a four-way wall switch and a one-way wall switch for power.
I know that they make a double pole double throw center off wall switch also.
Some people say you have to use a drum switch but those things are pretty bulky and won't fit in my double gang box.
Or do you have to use a triple pole double throw switch?
My dad did it with a panel switch on his bench grinder back in the 40s or 50s.
Thank you big help!
for sure, thanks for watching :)
Thanks for this man
I think of it like this load is go or what the power is going to and l(in)e is in or the power coming in, just a quick tip Incase somebody has trouble remembering
nice
Love that! Thanks!!!
So if I already have a disconnected but needed to add a toggle switch how do I do that? Just add another line for the switch ?
Hi, I am confused about the part where you showed the load wires. I have one black and one white wire. Did you color over one of the white wires and if you did why?
yes i used black tape over the white wires, because they are carrying voltage and not used as neutral wires anymore for this 208-240v unit.
Are you wiring 120 or 240. I'm not an electrician. But i just removed one of those type of switche and wired white to white and black to black. Ground wire was already twisted together. Just did it at 3:00 o'clock November 16th.
this is 240
Great Video. Thanks for the help.
Glad it was useful!
You can run two circuits if you use this at 120v
Can you explain what "1st,2nd,3rd,4th,5th,6th ect period Apprentice" is? What is the time gap to move up in those rankings, and what do they mean?
just your journey toward journeyman. there are 7 or 8 periods, i forget. time gap is every 1000 hours where i was, or 6 months if you are working full time. higher the ranking the more knowledge and experience you have, and higher pay.
How many years make you a journeymen
4-5 years. depends on which program you go through
TheCorvetteKid are you a journeymen?
Very helpful. Thanks dude.
Glad it was useful :)
I want to get into the trade but im really hooked on just doing residential work. Id like to do install. Is it common for companies to employ people just to wire new houses? I really have no desire to go on service calls in the middle of the night lol.
yeah you can just do houses if you want
Awesome video man! clear quality. what makes me question you is the when you say "I'll be showing you the 277v option" then you pan up the camera to show 120v colors. secondly please explain how this could even be 277v when im seeing 2 hots for your hvac unit. Lastly is using a sharpie to color a white wire black workmen like manner? tell whoever is running that jobsite to order the correct materials.
maybe I meant 208, oops. not sure, never been called out for using a sharpie to recolor a wire. if anything its more workmen like manner because it takes way longer and looks better, haha. but i would say it could rub/ "wash off" one day. always up to the inspector to haggle you, even if you are right...
Can I use this switch for a 240 volt electric hot water heater so I can turn it off and on? But I would need a 30 amp switch.
yes, i believe so
Hey I have an issue at work I have a 220 fan wire up to a single pole switch how is that possible?
it's wired wrong.
I know this is going to be a stupid question, but when connecting the load wires or the even the line wires to the switch, does it matter left or right?
its marked line and load, so it matters that the lines go on line side and loads go on load side. but it doesnt matter which side of line goes left or right, or load left or right.
@@DailyElectrician thanks... really appreciate this video and response.
glad to help :)
Well I try one? Nope is not working
So I use line connect to black screw and load wire connect to red screw then boom is working
No, left or right does not matter is the answer you were looking for. As long as you have your load wires (lightswitch/water heater etc) on the load Terminals and your line wires (incoming power) on the line terminals.
The ground wire on the switch itself - what's it's origination? Is that the ground coming from your electrical panel?
Im having the same thoughts, im wiring a 240 garage heater with the switch as a disconnect, what im trying to figure out is if i have the switch grounded to the panel, do i need to run the ground wire from the heater to the switch as well and double it up. I cant find the answer.
rick yes, its tied back to the panel through all the grounds.
tyler the heater should be grounded, wether its from the switch or somewhere else. assuming the heater is coming off the switch so yes it should be in the switch box
Wish I watched this a week ago... I did a triple pole switch which is line side (vertically) on one side and load on the other side. I applied the same logic to an entire building and after I was done realized I was horribly wrong 🤣.
oh no lol
I totally going to start filming my day to day at work. I am a Union Millwright Local 1192. I bet it would a hell of a funny.
nice!
I see you have two wire on the load side ? What it control
208/240 a/c unit
Bro u just saved my job ,I'm doing the same.shit u are & I was lost today
glad to help :)
Just to clarify, is this a 240 volt circuit or 277?
believe it was 240
Why do some single poles have 3 terminals and others 5?
never seen a 5 terminal single pole
If by 3 you mean 2 terminals plus a ground and by 5 you mean 2 black, 2 brass, one ground, thats a regular single pole switch and the other might be a 4 way
Where is the installation video
Thanks for the video. You saved me an expensive visit from an electrician.
No problem! If you subscribe i'll consider us even 🫶🏻🙏🏼
Going back to school for level 2 any tips?
not sure what level 2 means. but keep on going and dont give up :)
@@DailyElectrician in Canada we have 4 levels to our apprenticeship
Good as far as it goes but doesn't show how to actually wire the switch. All 4 wires on your example are black. My load and line are the conventional white and black. Does that mean that the two black wires go to the black screws and two whites to the brass-colored screws which would make sense to me?
each brand is different, check the back of the switch for line and load markings.
once you figure that out, each pair of wires stays together from the same 12/2. so one white and one black. remark the white as a hot (black or red)
@DailyElectrician
I was confused here too. So you can just run 12-2 and have your white and black as both hots. So is there no neutral? Not even in the panel? I was assuming 12 -3 before this. Thank you for the content!
See nice your hair long growth 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻💙💙💙
☺️☺️☺️
Sobwhy did you not mention tieing the neutrals together. Thanks anyway.
I applied for the apprenticeship and failed that shit now I have to be a R worker for another 6 months which sucks if I fail again I’m out . We literally do nothing like this all we do is bend pipe and run conduit and wire
dang im sorry dude ;( Hope it works out next time for you! 🙏🏼
Hi, where you get that switch?
I try looking around online
not sure, my company supplied it :(
@@DailyElectrician oh ok no problem, my schoolhav that... and I found it on Home Depot
nice! woo
@@DailyElectrician amazon. Just ordered 3. $8.99
nice! 🙌🏼
Nice tip wrapping the switch and screws with black electrical tape. Pretty important not to have any of those wires touching the metal box!!
for sure haha
Wouldn't some other color of electrical tape work also?
please don't expect me to know the difference between line and load. Which freaking one comes from the breaker?!
line, google helps too 👍🏼
Nice
thank you! 🙏🏼
Being an Electrician in Scotland working on commercial/Industrial installations. The accessories ie DP switches in the UK are much safer and more robust than the ones in the US, far too much exposed parts which make it unsafe to unscrew to check if dead or live in my opinion. Great video keep it up!
Thanks, i'd love to see what those look like :)
That’s the whole point of the switch. It’s for disconnecting power before you service the air handler unit. You don’t open the switch box to check if it’s dead. It’s only supposed to kill power on the load side of the switch. Line side will always remain hot unless you cut power upstream of the switch box. Do you know how electricity works?
@@RB-xv4si No shit sherlock but what happens when the switch fails and needs replaced? You prove dead before replacing. You have to unscrew the switch to access live terminals to prove dead. My point was UK accessories do not have live parts/terminals exposed in any way, you cannot physically put your finger on a live screw by mistake unlike the US accessories that have no barriers on there terminals. Are you even an electrician lmao.
@@iScoTT29 ever heard of multimeter there is a dial you can turn to continuity to check if it's live or not. The US system relies heavily on the fact the user coming into contact with a live, 110V wire is much less likely to die than his European counterpart, who would face a 240V AC potential on that same, exposed wire. They changed to 110 because at that time when electricity was getting popular 110 was safer than 240 so they stuck with it so we have 110(for older house, 115(if you have 3 phase wire), 120 for smaller appliances and 240 for big appliances.
@@AdamJames. Well straight away within your first sentence you haven't got a clue clearly. A multimeter on 'continuity' setting does not tell you if it's live or not, you my friend would be blown up if you tried that. A multimeter would be set to the 'Volts' setting to check if it was live or not.
I thought there were only three wires...red, black, and green. Red and black being 120 each. Why do you have 5. Probably a dumb question but I’ve watched a couple other vids and they only have 3. Thanks
incoming and outgoing power if i remember correctly. it is line and load, so one set of wires is power (and if theres 3 wires coming in the box, there are 2 sets of power wires pigtailed together) the other set goes to the unit like a switch leg. hope this helps :)
@@DailyElectrician thanks man most appreciated
anytime :)
If you don't have any knowledge on electricity you're screw.he didn't explained.nothing ceroo.
everyone else says otherwise
bullS**t, he explained it perfectly.
thanks 🙏🏼❤️
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻💙💙💙
thanks!
Maybe this guy should listen to this.. it is not very clear
thanks for the info
audio sucks!
sorry, thanks for letting me know
Useless amateurish explanation
Thanks
Too much talk, not good