The use of sand-paper on new points is a no-no... Which you didn't do in the video, but you did comment The reason is that their is a coating of platinum [electroplating] on the points that you will were off. This will drastically reduce the life of the points. Now that's cleared, the only reason to use sand-paper is to get out of a bind, when your points are burned. When the points are burned the coating of platinum is already damaged, pretty much gone, so sanding the points will get the engine running again in the short term. This will continue until you replace them or you get tired of sanding, which ever comes first... That was my ten cent's worth of wisdom.... Keep on riding...
Thanks so much dude, I’ve recently bought a 79 flh, I always had super fear of touching the timing, your video is soo good that you made it really really easy, it worked like a charm for me, thank you
This was a good video. But let me clarify a few things. 1. Do not torque your cam bolt to 24ft lbs. Its more like 7ft lbs.you will snap it off if you do 24ft lbs. 2. Do not put red toctite on your cam bolt. You will never get it off again. And trust me if your running points and advanced unit you will be replacing it at some point. 3. When using the feeler Gauge make sure the point arm does not raise when you insert it. You can see in this video the point arm raises everytime he inserts the feeler gauge. He was going for .18 but in reality it was probably like .16. But other then those few things it was a good video on shovelheads and those are hard to find. 2.
Rode a 72 shovel in a 58 pan chassis for 18 years. Hate the day I sold it. Road side repair tip. A standard paper match book is approx .018 inches and the striker surface will clean the points.
Had a 1980 with same rims as your 83.mine had electric start and kick,only used the electric start once just to see if it worked.kick start worked first kick every time once on correct stroke.i thrashed that bike for 3 years,went real good,4 speed was good too,all I ever did to it was loctite and tighten bolts as they came loose.it was an awesome bike.⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐👍👍👍👍👍
I went to tighten my points plate, and one of the holes for the fastener stripped again. So, since I already had helicoils installed. Ordered a new Cam cover. Your video is great.
Just small tip always clean new points contacts pads(where u placed feeler gauges ) with some sort contact cleaner (petrol in piece rag) does as all new points have a coating and if not taken off cause points contacts to transfer voltage the easiest path ( means uneven and in cases small pits in surface contact pads) this means smaller contact area and also less points life. Jose Cuevas is correct the above step lengthens life of points but if u don't take lacquer coating of contacts u will end up using points file
If you press on the brake and stick a wrench sideways in the gap where the brake pedal pivots it will keep the pedal down and out of the way of the ignition making it a little easier.
How many of us out there have a mousetrap? I do . Learned how to adjust mine from a old scooter trash friend of mine. Great vid I'm now running a ultima ignition in my shovel but points are always in the bag.
How do you address correcting the difference between having diffrent point gap size from the front and rear point cam lobes? How do you makenthem both read the same gap?
I'm timing my 1980 shovelhead so I don't I'm not sure about the line or the circle I'm not sure if it's early 80 or late 80 but do you do anything with the advanced mechanism or just leave it alone alone ..
So your bike was had an electronic ignition originally? But you changed it with points ignition? I'm so interested with a reason why you more prefer to that traditional ignitions?
Just like the test light hook you negative to a ground source and the positive to the points. Put your meter on dc voltage and rotate your points plate as soon as it registers 12-14 volts lock down your plate. 💪
I'm rebuilding my 2002 Sportster XL 883 for points think it will be interesting tired of buying chinese made ignition modules from the Harley Stealership!!
my name is dale can you please tell me what lobe to set the points on ,i dont know witch one is the large lobe where you set them points can you please show me with your video can you please take the bolt out that holds the points so i can see what is the wide lobe i cant tell please and thanks
You probably already figured this out but it will be off a little, 2 thousandths either direction. If it's more then that you may have to set your andvanced unit again. Sometimes tapping in the cam bolt with a rubber mallet to seat it correctly.
20 to 25 lbs of torque on that points kit keeper bolt. I think someone should try that and see what happens. By the way have a second bolt ready. Snug with a bit of locktight that's all.
@@IdleHands thank you very much i bought an 1981 wide glide but it has a S&S engine which i would like to go back to a points set up because if I have issues on the road its always not hard to carry a set of points and plugs but not a fan of electric ignitions or fuel injection systems on bikes carby points condenser and plugs you can usually get yourself home.
This is a what not to do video. At about 10 lbs of torque the bolt will snap and if not when you go to remove it that red loctite will break it anyway. Never use sandpaper on points!!!
You remove the push rod cover ( like on the video ) then you are close to TDC ,remove the timing plug and look for TDC or the VERTICAL line rotate motor with kick or rotating rear wheel
@@alanb7128 I've already found what happened, my engine was rebuilt again in 2014 and the guy that rebuilt it instead of using the dot he used the line so I just accidentally found that out by trying it the line and it fired right up and it's been running fine ever since.
I do. If your going to kick start it often, then points are the best wat to go. And you can replace the points easily, I believe that you can get a pair to get you by at any auto store to get you by.. But with an electronic ignition going out.... call a tow truck. Same with solid pushrods and lifters, you can get on the road alot quicker..
@@kimber4573 I have electronic ignition in all my sleds. None of them have ever failed. However in the saddlebag I have points condenser and mechanical advance unit. Doesnt take long to swap out. As far as kick starting I hear people say all the time its easier with points . I dont agree. If it's set up correct starts right up. Even on a cold morning. Maybe the people that say that are to light in the ass. I lift weights so I can easily spin that sucker and start it
I've been riding a 79 shovel for 18 years now went from points to electronic back to points after electronic gave out twice on the road. The thing with points is u can pull into an auto zone if something goes wrong. rather than carry an electronic in your saddlebags where it might get damged. The dyna s is a good ignition but my experience is I get 4- 5 years before it dies .a good set of points set will last.a year. I've gone 2 years use on a good set . ,probably blue streak.
@@lonesometinman3147 dyna S uses a mechanical advance. I use a true electronic ignition. Its been in there so long I forget what it is. Set it forget it. However I do have a set of points with the advance unit in my tool bag. I dont ride either of my shovels often . Same goes for the panheads I own. My daily ride is a 09 dyna street bob. Stock displacement. Gear drive .cams. exhaust . Different air cleaner and a EFI remap. Never needs a dam thing .tires brake pads . Fluid changes. Thatz it. Every time I ride one of my ol skool sleds I'm wondering if its gonna brake the entire ride. To be fair I can work on them on the side of the road while if the TC brakes down it's getting towed home.
Best points video i've seen so far.
Thanks,
The use of sand-paper on new points is a no-no...
Which you didn't do in the video, but you did comment
The reason is that their is a coating of platinum [electroplating] on the points that you will were off. This will drastically reduce the life of the points.
Now that's cleared, the only reason to use sand-paper is to get out of a bind, when your points are burned.
When the points are burned the coating of platinum is already damaged, pretty much gone, so sanding the points will get the engine running again in the short term. This will continue until you replace them or you get tired of sanding, which ever comes first...
That was my ten cent's worth of wisdom.... Keep on riding...
thank you
Thanks so much dude, I’ve recently bought a 79 flh, I always had super fear of touching the timing, your video is soo good that you made it really really easy, it worked like a charm for me, thank you
This was a good video. But let me clarify a few things.
1. Do not torque your cam bolt to 24ft lbs. Its more like 7ft lbs.you will snap it off if you do 24ft lbs.
2. Do not put red toctite on your cam bolt. You will never get it off again. And trust me if your running points and advanced unit you will be replacing it at some point.
3. When using the feeler Gauge make sure the point arm does not raise when you insert it. You can see in this video the point arm raises everytime he inserts the feeler gauge. He was going for .18 but in reality it was probably like .16. But other then those few things it was a good video on shovelheads and those are hard to find.
2.
Factory manual says 12 to 16 INCH pounds....that is 1 to 1.333 foot pounds ...these are tiny bolts...and you don't want to break them
Second time I've come back to this video. Helped so much. Thanks a million!!!
I even watch it myself if it’s been awhile.
This is an end to product perfection! ❤❤❤ you should scholar as a master with this leading.
thanks so much for this man! just got my first shovel and trying to learn as much as i can!
Man thank you so much! Just bought my first shovel with an already installed blue streak points. All the best from Germany
that was one of the best ones ive seen. thanks
Rode a 72 shovel in a 58 pan chassis for 18 years. Hate the day I sold it. Road side repair tip. A standard paper match book is approx .018 inches and the striker surface will clean the points.
Had a 1980 with same rims as your 83.mine had electric start and kick,only used the electric start once just to see if it worked.kick start worked first kick every time once on correct stroke.i thrashed that bike for 3 years,went real good,4 speed was good too,all I ever did to it was loctite and tighten bolts as they came loose.it was an awesome bike.⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐👍👍👍👍👍
Great job on the video! straight to the point and no BS!!
Hey pal. That was a great video easy to follow no messing around fixed me right up. Thanks
Glad it helped
Thank you Scott. Been strugling with my 81 shovel
You ever get it going?
Thanks for the video its been 20 years since I set points on a old shovel and just picked one up and had to refresh my memory ..
I use this video a lot
For some reason I can’t remember that process. Now I thunk I got it. Lol. Thanks Brother
I went to tighten my points plate, and one of the holes for the fastener stripped again. So, since I already had helicoils installed. Ordered a new Cam cover. Your video is great.
Bought my first Evo in '88 and had a few since, but just bought my first shovel . Big help , thanks, man !
Excellent no BS video. Well done mate. Thanks.
PleaSe never delete this my g I been using this video since I was 14
Hell yes!!
Dude you have no idea how much this helped me!! Thank you!!
Just small tip always clean new points contacts pads(where u placed feeler gauges ) with some sort contact cleaner (petrol in piece rag) does as all new points have a coating and if not taken off cause points contacts to transfer voltage the easiest path ( means uneven and in cases small pits in surface contact pads) this means smaller contact area and also less points life. Jose Cuevas is correct the above step lengthens life of points but if u don't take lacquer coating of contacts u will end up using points file
If you press on the brake and stick a wrench sideways in the gap where the brake pedal pivots it will keep the pedal down and out of the way of the ignition making it a little easier.
You obviously have more experience than I do with the shovel but if you are able to remove the plugs it really makes the job much easier.
im saving this vid!! thanx man
Nice job explaining everything! Thanks
Thanks! this is exactly the video I've been looking for.
The Torque Spec on the Cam Screw is 24 INCH lbs NOT FT lbs
Great video, very well explained. Thanks!
Righteous video. My Shovelhead thanks you.
Thanks for the informative video! Just what we were looking for
Don't know what's up. I guess it's just me. Followed this procedure to the T, but all I get is kickback on a cold start. Any suggestions?
Another good video, maybe make a vid about 4-speed clutch adjustment, push rod, cable tension, thanks.
How many of us out there have a mousetrap? I do . Learned how to adjust mine from a old scooter trash friend of mine. Great vid I'm now running a ultima ignition in my shovel but points are always in the bag.
Good easy to follow video. Thanks
And THAT'S how ya do it, damn I miss riding season lol
Nice video Boss thanks
Cool advice there Nathan, thanks for that
Thank you, she started 1st kick.
Thanks, simple and well explained
Excellent video brother Thanks
Very nice video!
DO NOT USE RED LOCTITE on cam bolt!!!!!!! only use blue.
What's the difference?
@@ranchurdhimster4955 blue is medium strength.
I don't use any threadlocker.at all
Never had a problem with it coming loose
Thank you, thank you, thank you!
How do you address correcting the difference between having diffrent point gap size from the front and rear point cam lobes? How do you makenthem both read the same gap?
Great info. No bs
Red loctite on an advance unit screw, are you crazy?
Its purple for 1/4 under. Lol red is crazy
Screw the next guy, ey!
Great Job, Ty..
I'm timing my 1980 shovelhead so I don't I'm not sure about the line or the circle I'm not sure if it's early 80 or late 80 but do you do anything with the advanced mechanism or just leave it alone alone ..
My future shovel thanks you
awesome video, many thanks!
First time I seen it done that way I always do it with it advanced all the way. Guess each to there
Own.
Great video thank you
Shovels running good what jets you running in that carb?
Nicely done
Great video, man.
Great vid mate....
great video shows everything you need to do
So your bike was had an electronic ignition originally? But you changed it with points ignition? I'm so interested with a reason why you more prefer to that traditional ignitions?
No dead revs for a kick only bike.
Great explanation, how do I know if my bike is early 1980 or late 1980? Thanks.
Rotor Bolt is 25 INCH pounds. You'll snap that tiny bolt off in a second .
Otherwise a great video, appreciate the clarity of the film
Thanks for the video.
So what you did helps with the kick start?
good video man! are your forks extended at all?
4 over
How do I use a multimeter to test the voltage coming from my points? A step by step would be greatly appreciated.
Just like the test light hook you negative to a ground source and the positive to the points. Put your meter on dc voltage and rotate your points plate as soon as it registers 12-14 volts lock down your plate. 💪
Thank you man.
Ha brother this is crash I hope you all Will all come to The HUNS MC Heatstroke Drags it's Run wat you Brug more. Info soon Thanks Brother
what if the cam for the points is loose after you tighten it up do I have to get a new cam please answer back
what is that in the head between your push rod tubes ? I have a 1980 with those threaded bosses on my heads but nothing in them. Thanks
I used it as a carb support bracket.
What points plate did u buy
If you have electronic ignition will this still work?
Good stuff
Why Do You Have Points On A Bike That Came With Electronic Ignition? I Know Because I Have The Same Bike>
I'm rebuilding my 2002 Sportster XL 883 for points think it will be interesting tired of buying chinese made ignition modules from the Harley Stealership!!
my name is dale can you please tell me what lobe to set the points on ,i dont know witch one is the large lobe where you set them points can you please show me with your video can you please take the bolt out that holds the points so i can see what is the wide lobe i cant tell please and thanks
the small/narrow cam
I do the .018 gap on the large lobe. When I 180 it to the small lobe, the gap is MUCH larger. What does this mean?
You probably already figured this out but it will be off a little, 2 thousandths either direction. If it's more then that you may have to set your andvanced unit again. Sometimes tapping in the cam bolt with a rubber mallet to seat it correctly.
Thanks man
I've got a tc88 procedure same?
20 to 25 lbs of torque on that points kit keeper bolt. I think someone should try that and see what happens. By the way have a second bolt ready. Snug with a bit of locktight that's all.
Bro can you do timing this way with electronic or is it different.?.
Almost all electronic ignitions get setup a similar way especially a Dyna s ignition.
@@IdleHands thank you very much i bought an 1981 wide glide but it has a S&S engine which i would like to go back to a points set up because if I have issues on the road its always not hard to carry a set of points and plugs but not a fan of electric ignitions or fuel injection systems on bikes carby points condenser and plugs you can usually get yourself home.
whatever you do don't torque the thin bolt to 20 ft lbs. can you say SNAP!!
Ya he musta meant inch lbs
20 in lbs ... And Red Locktite will lock the threads whereas heat will be needed to get it apart again...
@@dragstews ...yep...I call it the "dreaded red" because it's almost permanent. You'll prolly have to take out the cam to get out the broken stud.
You forgot to mention if when you go to static time it, it won't. Then you need go around one more revolution, due to your cam being out 180°.
When i do something in this place, i atach the brake pedal down, to have all the space for morking.
Point high lobe tight 18 done... called timing advance..
😎👍😎
I like points I know how they work.
What brand of kicker is that for an 1983? Is it a kicker for a 5 speed?
it’s a 4 speed.
@@IdleHands thanks for the reply! What brand of belt drive on the primary?
Bdl belt drive with primo Rivera clutch.
@@IdleHands Nice 👌
Where are you located? I'll pay you to do that to mine
Go to vid for points - thanks.
This is great
Aaron C 9
This is a what not to do video. At about 10 lbs of torque the bolt will snap and if not when you go to remove it that red loctite will break it anyway. Never use sandpaper on points!!!
Cam bolt should be 20 to 24 INCH pounds factory recommends
ive always but the line dead center in the hole no problems ...
Inch pounds youll snap it at foot lbs
yep its inch pounds,i read the instructions and the manual,its a small bolt
81 FXB Sturgis
Do not use sandpaper to clean the points
If you push the brake down and put a piece of wood behind it, it wouldn't be in your way
no points sanding
So I have a 79 shovel and no info on where the tdc mark is on this dam video either, what I get for buying a dam older than 80 bike no help at all.
You remove the push rod cover ( like on the video ) then you are close to TDC ,remove the timing plug and look for TDC or the VERTICAL line rotate motor with kick or rotating rear wheel
I have a 79 So Iam useing the dot not the advanced line
@@alanb7128 I've already found what happened, my engine was rebuilt again in 2014 and the guy that rebuilt it instead of using the dot he used the line so I just accidentally found that out by trying it the line and it fired right up and it's been running fine ever since.
@@dynacon2 in the last gear of course correct? 4th or 5th gear ?
WHY are using points? 1983? They were electronic. I see no reason to go backwards on tech.
Cheaper replacement of course, I'm tired of buying chinese ignition module's from the Harley Stealership!!
I do. If your going to kick start it often, then points are the best wat to go.
And you can replace the points easily, I believe that you can get a pair to get you by at any auto store to get you by.. But with an electronic ignition going out.... call a tow truck.
Same with solid pushrods and lifters, you can get on the road alot quicker..
@@kimber4573 I have electronic ignition in all my sleds. None of them have ever failed. However in the saddlebag I have points condenser and mechanical advance unit. Doesnt take long to swap out. As far as kick starting I hear people say all the time its easier with points . I dont agree. If it's set up correct starts right up. Even on a cold morning. Maybe the people that say that are to light in the ass. I lift weights so I can easily spin that sucker and start it
I've been riding a 79 shovel for 18 years now went from points to electronic back to points after electronic gave out twice on the road.
The thing with points is u can pull into an auto zone if something goes wrong. rather than carry an electronic in your saddlebags where it might get damged. The dyna s is a good ignition but my experience is I get 4- 5 years before it dies
.a good set of points set will last.a year. I've gone 2 years use on a good set . ,probably blue streak.
@@lonesometinman3147 dyna S uses a mechanical advance. I use a true electronic ignition. Its been in there so long I forget what it is. Set it forget it. However I do have a set of points with the advance unit in my tool bag. I dont ride either of my shovels often . Same goes for the panheads I own. My daily ride is a 09 dyna street bob. Stock displacement. Gear drive .cams. exhaust . Different air cleaner and a EFI remap. Never needs a dam thing .tires brake pads . Fluid changes. Thatz it. Every time I ride one of my ol skool sleds I'm wondering if its gonna brake the entire ride. To be fair I can work on them on the side of the road while if the TC brakes down it's getting towed home.
Good vid...helped me!