How to Replace Idler Arm 1994-2004 Chevy S-10
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
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New Idler Arm from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/1ASI...
If your steering is feeling clunky, but you checked your tie rods and other outer components, consider the idler arm! This part that connects the steering shaft to the steering linkages can wear out and get loose or clunky too! This video shows you how to install a new idler arm on your 1994-2004 Chevy S-10.
• Check here for more videos on the 1994-2004 Chevy S-10 • Chevy S-10 2nd Generat...
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
1994 Chevrolet S10
1995 Chevrolet S10
1996 Chevrolet S10
1997 Chevrolet S10
1998 Chevrolet S10
1999 Chevrolet S10
2000 Chevrolet S10
2001 Chevrolet S10
2002 Chevrolet S10
2003 Chevrolet S10
2004 Chevrolet S10
Tools you will need:
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Gloves 1aau.to/oa/1AXS...
• Safety Glasses 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Hammer 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Wheel Chocks
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Chevy S-10 2nd Generation 1994-2004: • Chevy S-10 2nd Generat...
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
√ *Watch the Video*
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You guys seem to have missed the step of aligning the new idler arm. Measure from tie rod to idler arm, and from opposite tie rod to pitman arm, lengths should be identical. If not, adjust idler arm by sliding bolts up/down in channels in frame. If you don't have enough adjustment, you either have a cheap part or a bent frame.
Got it installed pretty easily, torque values are correct, 79ft lbs for the nuts, and 60 ft lbs for the castle nut. The castle nut is a 7\8 socket and the two nuts are 18mm as well as the bolt heads. Super easy to retrieve through the frame rail if they fall out, just use a magnet. Hardest part was the seperation using the fork, only worked after i sprayed it with some penetrant and i did have to take the passenger tire off to get the right angle. Whole thing can be done in an hour with experience, otherwise shoot for two hours. New TRQ part was very stiff which made alignment annoying, had to use a big ass pair of channel lock pliers to rotate the shaft to get the bolt holes to align. Not impossible you just gotta muscle it. Makes the steering feel just a hair tighter and ive noticed no difference in the wheel un turning itself right after corners like some people mention. Some people say that a super stiff idler arm makes the car not want to go back to center after a corner but ive noticed no difference. Just prepare for it to be a little heavier after the new install. Lastly, this idler arm does not have grease fittings but it does come from the factory with grease already packed in, so ready out of the box. Still, you should check yourself, as its crucial these joints have grease. After install but before the cover goes back on, start ot up and move the wheel from lock to lock left and right and have a friend confirm that everything is moving correctly and not flexing or binding, as that would be bad.
Date: 5\8\22 so far i give the part a 8\10. Its a good replacement but it could be better of it had greasable fittings that you could top off every year. However for the price you just cant beat 1A auto. If you want to spend more look at MOOG parts for the s10.
FYI: mine is a 98 s10 LS 4x4 4.3 V6.
Reply with any questions and ill try to help. Not enough people helping these days and the community has gotten so small. Id hate to see these trucks fall into disrepair.
Hey man I really appreciate all the time you put into this thank you
Must be nice having a shield
My new one came with a rubber bushing on the shaft,the old one doesn't have that, do I put it in?
What size socket is socket to take off the pitman arm
Haa. Typical oil soaked S10 or Blazer. STP stop leak and make sure the filter is tight (within reason). When I bought mine (225k miles) the filter was not tight. The oil cooler line still leaks
. but waaay less.
T R T
Thx TRQ. Getting ready to buy your front end kit for a 2000 Chevy Blazer.
Cool, I can do that.
Should these joints on the new idler move freely? Because mine are super stiff and wont move by hand or even with pliers. The old one moves freely by hand on both joints. Is this normal? Please advise. The new one is TRQ
Totally normal. A small amount of rotational play can be fought for, but joints moving easily is a sign of wear. Especially if the movement is on any other axis besides perpendicular rotation with respect to the ball joint.
What about a 92 chevy s10? I’m trying to figure it out. But they are different. Have any advice?
+Corbin Layne This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
This is not the same as a s10 2wd
same as drivers side?
There is only one idler arm
Yeah driver side is pitman arm. That's connected to the steering gear of your shit box.
@@apophisb7597 I didn't order a pitman arm and I'm sure glad I didn't. I replaced the relay rod, idler arm and all my tie rods (I had bad outer tie rods). For anyone reading this, if your pitman arm is alright, you can get away with letting it be 👍
Yeahhh the parts I got are completely different
What year S-10 do you have?