Top 5 Problems Chevy S-10 ZR2 Truck 2nd Generation 1994-04
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- Опубліковано 13 лип 2024
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These are the top 5 problems (and a bonus!) with the 2nd generation Chevy S-10. In this video, Andy walks you through the top problems with the 2nd gen S-10, and offers suggestions on how to fix or resolve those issues. Check out this video if you own a Chevy S-10, want to own one, or know someone that does!
Check out more on the 2nd gen S-10:
• Chevy S-10 1994-2004 2...
How to Replace Front Wheel Bearing:
• How to Replace Wheel B...
0:00 Top Problems Chevy S10 2nd Gen 1994-2004
0:25 Heater Core
1:38 Intake Gasket
3:33 Distributor p0300-p0306
4:59 Front Wheel Bearings
5:34 Fuel Pump
7:12 Vacuum Switches
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I need to do my front wheel bearings and I have completed this list
Changed all that, next?
My only problems were/are a demolished front right wheel bearing, and my ABS light shows up every now and then which concerns me
How about abs system?
How about making a trap door for the fuelpump above the tank in the bed? I have a rubber bed mat, cannot even see it when rubber mat is over it or a bed liner would have the same effect.
The biggest problem you'll have is not owning one.
Add bad door hinges to the list replace the bushings often
omg my door got stuck open and wouldn't close....I had to drive to the mechanics like that and it was incredibly scary and embarrassing. Does it really happen multiple times?
Same here. But the hole the bushing goes into is worn and enlarged. So the bushings don't last long. Unfortunately it's in the part of the hinge that is welded to the jamb.
Just did that 2 days ago. Pain in the rear to replace spring. 2nd set.
@@randyclark8774 if you buy the door spring tool it’s super easy
I have a friend with a metal lathe and he made me a set of brass bushings to replace the crap pot metal ones you can buy.
I bought a 99 S10 3dr August 2022 and these problems you point out got me having buyers remorse.
Good review. I have actually replaced everything you have commented. I would say ball joints before wheel bearings.
When I bought mine I had all mine including the brakes and rotors replaced, it had sat for about a year to a year and a half and was driven home
A cracked fan can mimick a ticking in engine.. so remove and replace fan before replacing whole engine like i did
+vortecemachine Thanks for the feedback!
As a geezer I look back to the days with no money and no manuals (let alone UA-cam or even cell phone photos) and wingin’ it. We sure survived some crappy times. Lol
Rocking a 1994 2wd....bought it for 500 ten years ago.....replaced...fuel tank. Starter. Clutch, alternator. Fuel pump/ filter, distributer, injectors, muffler/ tailpipe. Fuel pump again... love the truck wish I would have taken better care. 177300 miles still spinning, havent had rear brakes for 7 years
Figured out a way to do the heater core easily! It sounds rough, but if you are careful you can cut with a air jig saw or oscillating cutter or similar tool, around the plastic air box under the hood to gain access to the heater core and after fab up a “filler” strip of metal or plastic etc and carefully epoxy or rivet the 2 halves back together and with alittle time, skill, and creativeness you can cover up the seam saving many HOURS and lots of $$$ in labor charges! I’ve done quite a few and have had ASE techs no even realize it….why spend hours and hours in misery if it can be done in an 1 hour or so?👌🏻
Please make a video of this
The most common issue I see on them is the 4x4 vacuum diaphragm.
I have driven S10s since 1988 when I started in pest control and can say I've had no problems with any of them. The worst thing I've had happen was the rear axle recall on one of them. I currently have a 2004 blazer with 225k on it and wouldn't hesitate to drive it across the country and back.
I agree or the vacuum switch on the case goes out and tranny fluid ruins the diaphragm. I had a 02 gmc sonoma and I've had to replace it twice.
so glad to hear. Just found me a 2002 chevy s10 with a nice little camper on it for only 55k miles! Was rarely driven and mainly stored. Hope it lasts me a good whiles!
How much you pay for S10
Good thing to warning others about big problems in cars always us good to know that ..thank U👍
I had a 95 one and I'll never forget breaking down in the middle of nowhere after the fuel pump went out , no cell coverage anywhere and it was the middle of August in the south. very hot! I probably walked 6 miles before someone gave me a ride. I was soaked in sweat.
Man, the number of times that could have happened to me. Just thinking of my Blazer's current condition I'm afraid to go anywhere.
Sounds like it was a good time
My fuel pump was going bad for almost a year before a replaced it. Never left me stranded though. I would just bang on the tank with a shovel or just start it with ether. It had enough fuel pressure to run but not enough to start it.
GM had crappy fuel pumps AC Delco parts were garbage thats why GM almost went out of business
HE forgot the spider injection leaks and low quality poppet injectors the upgrade kit which you guys sell is good for it
Just changed mine. Quick job took about 20 min.
Would this cause fuel in your oil? I got a 2.2 with fuel in my oil
Swapping mine this weekend
Spider injectors are gen 1 it’s a throttle body
The S10 is still a kick ass pickup and my favorite pickup of all time and my dad kept his 03 s10 and is currently with my uncle and soon too be back home with my dad or me.
I have had (3) S-10s over the years. I have replaced EVERYTHING over the years, except the 4.3L motors!!!! Front bearings go bad and fuel pumps... All 3 that I own have over 200,000 mi..... Rusting out along the rear bed also on all 3....
@Grandma Ducky take care of it well! Beware of the rust you might start getting, spray everything down with a bottle of transmission fluid until you can properly coat it
I too, have the 2003 Chevy S10 ..18 years old, and running strong..150k miles.. white in color, with the full size bed on it, which u don't see very often. This truck has been our family since day one and the thought of trading her in just kills me. I literally have had people stop and tell me what a beautiful truck, and how well kept it is .. even have had compliments on the stock wheels it came with. It has kept pretty good blue book value, as well! Think I'll just hold onto it😁
@@thomasfoss9963
Is this an issue I need to look out for,..I have an 03' S10, with a full size long bed.. any way to avoid the rust issue?
Another one on the 4x4 in northern climates is the vacuum line that supplies that switch. The trouble area is under the battery tray where moisture can settle in the line and then freeze in the winter. This prevents the truck from shifting into 4x4. The solution is to reroute the vacuum line that is under that battery tray in such a way as to eliminate the sag in it so that condensation/moisture cannot collect there. I have had several trucks that I had to crawl under the truck with a pair of vice grips to manually pull that cable on the front differential to lock it up so I had 4x4. Best to just fix it while the weather is nice.
Heater Core for my 02' Blazer ZR2 w/ 300k miles is $40 but $400 for install & I'm not having the dash taken apart because it never goes back without rattling.
I don't need heat in SE Texas.
The Stock Tranny Sunshield will snap, causing a rebuild. ($2200)
The ECM & Coil may crack like mine did & short out causing a No Start. Changed my distributor, the Cap only 6 times in the past 3 years. (Humid)
Radiator flush, Clutch Fan, 02 Sensors, wheel bearings or hub bearings.
A Arm replacements. Fuel gauge located near fuel pump is shorting out. So gauge jumps around.
Changed out all vacuum switches for 4x4 & actuator under the battery. Dorman now makes a HD Actuator.
Thick rubber, finally!
New plugs, wires, Camshaft Position Sensor & she's like new. 16mpg.
Which is the 02' Sticker mileage. I paid $3k for her & put in about $4k more in repairs & she's been a great 4x4 the past 8 years.
Verry informative! I watch all your videos, even if it's stuff I can't do myself I have the knowledge to know what usually is wrong or to know when they're just trying to upsell me and fix other things. I appreciate your videos!
+Cody Dietrich Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
Yep...bought my 2000 s10 in 2014. Have had both the heater core and fuel pump replaced. Other than these issues, has been a great truck
+Lori Hicks Thanks for the feedback!
I have been driving a 2000 GMC Sonoma since 2002 and have over 285000 miles on it. I have replaced the fuel pump, but everything else I take as normal upkeep. It's my baby.@@1AAuto
just getting ready to replace the heater core in my 2000 - looks like fun!
I’m so sorry 😳 I have a 2001 Extreme Blazer
No Heater Core or Fuel pump problems.
But I do have Distributor Problems. The Cap has to be Changed every 2,000 miles ... it gets Corroded inside on the terminals I must clean it or replace it ???
180k on mine (4cyl)still runs like a champ
Last 13 years I Replaced fuel pump,hub bearings, and that’s it!
Wow - have had ALL of those problems. Sure wish this would have been around when I needed it but wow does it HELP to know this stuff! Have a 2003 s10 4.3 and STILL LOVE that truck. Planning on eventually restoring the whole thing (surely not worth it) because it's just a fun ride and STILL looks pretty good - runs GREAT. Redid the spyder and valves a couple of years ago and was surprise at how easy it really was with a service manual. Lost the dang thing - Chiltons don't cut it-lol. GREAT JOB 1A AUTO!!! Have found so much stuff over the years that's saved hundreds or hours and dollars.
+B L Thanks for the feedback!
2003 zr5 with 456k on it. Only one issue besides wear parts was a wire was broke right at the connector for the coolant temp sensor. Had it parked the past two yrs at sis inlaws farm because im in an apartment building and only allotted 2 parking spaces. Didnt get there often enough to cut the grass around it/under it so the rockers rusted and a few other minor spots. Planning on starting a frame off restore spring of 2024 if not sooner. trying to located leaf springs as I broke one when I drove it off the trailer (no ramps lol) to park it at the sis inlaws.
I love my 2000 zr2! It's got a 9 inch lift rolling on 35's with 250,000 miles and she is still running strong. She's my silver lake sand dune / bogging machine, never gets stuck and never leaves me stranded.
s-10 are junk dude
Bought a 2001, 2 months in I had fuel pump and distributor issues. Overall a great car for almost 20 years old. First chevy
I have a 2000 zr2 with 177,000 miles...love it to death
Bought a 2000 xtreme 2.2L 93k miles on it off my brother in law for $200. Runs great 👍
Same just bought a 01 Chevy s10 and everytime I go to hit the brakes the steering wheel shakes, what could be cause that?
@@amez1k636 calipers and or rotors sticking.
@@barbiesawada5916 our the rotors are warped and or possibly a wheel bearing going bad.
love the video, couldn't help but notice the rubber bungie straps holding the muffler in place.
The fact that nobody has figured out a better way to unblock a heater core is just mind blowing to me
My heater has never worked
My heater core messes up occasionally I need to flush my radiator but in the meantime I just take a hose fitting Stick it to my heater core hose turn my faucet on and let it run a little while and then put it on the other heater core hose and let it run backwards works good for about a year but my radiator it's nasty so it gets clogged back up again
Main reason why get all dirty and nasty is cuz the heater core sits up higher than the radiator so it gets air bubbles and all kinds of shit in the system first take your cap off let your radiator and let your truck run with the radiator cap off did they get rid of air pockets and your heater core if that don't work flush it flush the heater core just unhook both hoses from the engine that ran to the heater core and flush it out with a garden hose if a garden hose going to work take it to the car wash hook up the high pressure pressure washer to it works every time
One the first things I did to my '99 ZR-2 was to flush that orange Dex-cool shit out and replace it with regular green coolant. The Dex-cool had created an orange jello like muck in the heater core
@@galenhof3371 same thing here, the orange stuff gelled and hardened. Ended up replacing the core because it wouldn't all flush out.
Nice video. I had a 1997 5 speed manual Chevy version that is an awesome truck. A few things I changed because of an issue were the coil, plug wires, spark plug gap and swapped out the poppets for Bosh injectors. Made a huge difference in performance and that motor ran better than it ever did. The reason for those changes was a condition where the ECM would raise the idle to burn off carbon deposits that clogged the EGR valve. There was a tech service bulletin issue for it but it didn't address the root cause which was very poor combustion. GM coils were 35k volt and swapped it for 50k. With a manual trans, the ECM didn't have an input from the speed sensor which is attached to an automatic transmission but not to the manual trans so the ECM ignore it and the driver would experience cruise control when lifting their foot off the gas. The ECM programming disregarded input of the speed sensor when a manual trans was involved. So it didn't know the vehicle was in gear and moving so it assumed the vehicle was stopped when it was safe to raise the idle to burn off carbon deposits. Very dangerous when turning in gear. You're expecting the truck to decelerate but it doesn't. I am not going to get into how I discovered it but it involved driving around with an engine scanner to see exactly what was going on. What I did above solved it. The factory EGR valve is still in the truck now. The Bosh injectors are still running perfect. Did all this work in 2000 when the warranty ran out.
I also had to change the heater core and fuel pump once. I've had no issues with vacuum leaks or electrical connectors. I did condition the lines and I used dielectric grease on all electrical connectors in the truck.
One issue not mentioned in your video was the remote oil filter lines leaking due to vibration and poor support. Solved that as well.
They are great trucks and why wouldn't they be. Chevy 1500 parts in a S10. lol Almost indestructible.
+Mike K. Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for a very informative post. Is it a 4 or a 6-cylinder? What does "condition the lines" mean?
My distributor went bad after a night shift at 3 am! I had to get her towed home, but it was a very good learning experience diagnosing the issue and fixing the problem!
I would say one of the top 5 would be the elephants in the room. The L60e trans. I've heard of a lot of other S10'ers mention their trans just crapping out. Mine gave out at around 213k miles. But since I love my truck, I had it replaced. Which I consider acceptable considering how old the vehicle is and that it was used, abused, and thrashed about a farm before I owned it.
I agree with #5. I remember when these S-10's were brand new and would constantly see them in shops getting fuel pumps replaced. It was commonly on the early 2000's S-10's if i remember correctly.
2003 S10 4.3L losing power again going up hills, fuel pump was changed in April. Thanks for the info for preventive maintenance.
I've had ..3 .. Chevy s10s a 97 and 02 and an 04 alternator is the number one thing I would include!! I will also mention the upper and lower ball joints, should be replaced. another thing I can mention is to replace the plastic radiators was once they break you can't melt them they're done!! you got to replace them and he's correct about intake gaskets and fuel pumps
My 2001 GMC Sonoma was intermittently blowing the A/C fuse 18 months ago... so I got a "self-resetting circuit breaker" (on Amazon for $10) of the same amp rating, wrapped wires around the legs of the blown fuse, shoved it back into the fuse block, wired in the external self-reset breaker "just outboard/beside" the fuse block cover.
Heavily insulated the outboard breaker with electrical tape and viola! A/C now works great!! Description of breaker: Fastronix 10A 12V Type 1 Automatic Reset Circuit Breaker with Cover
Bought my 01 ZR2 New and it has 320,000 on it. Has original clutch too. Replaced wheel bearings once 2 fuel pumps and 2 intake gaskets. Still going strong
Saving this video to come back to, AND, saving the channel! 2001 s10 manual trans owner here, i LOVE this truck, ive been horrible to it but im changing that. Just had the engine rebuilt amd want to start on all the little stuff so my 14 yo cand drive it soon!
I have a '99 ZR2 Blazer with 178,000 Miles on it, and I Love It. It's Red, the clear isn't peeling and the Sunroof works Great. It's seen many Adventures but the carpet and seats are in great shape and there are no cracks in the dash!
Rear hatch is stuck so I need that blue plastic link, and I'm going to rebuild control arms with ball joints and replace the front hubs soon. Awesome Truck
So simple & so hard at the same time I spent quite some time trying to figure it out my self & I couldn't do it your video was so helpful thxs
I just had a motor put in mine. It’s a 99 with 151,000. Blew a head gasket. 4 cylinder. Heater core was the tipping point. Cost me $2000 to replace the motor, radiator, heater core and water pump. I’m pleased. Runs great.
It just cracks me up when you think about how car manufacturers design things that basically feed the dealerships with labor charges. The Heater core could have possibly been replaceable from under the hood but no. My 86 Blazer wasn't that involved thank goodness.
What year was this that you made those repairs?
Bought a 98 ZR2 new in 98, Still drive it. Two common issues not mentioned: The factory remote oil lines from the engine to the remote oil filter. The OEM lines in the early models (95-2000) had poor crimps and leaked within the first 5K miles or so. Another one was OEM front ball joints wore EXTREMELY fast. Just junk, replaced with Moog. Idler arms where another common early wear item also.
WOW - this is an amazing video! Just watched for the first time, i've owned my 2003 GMC Sonoma for 16 years and pretty much have been through all of this (the expensive ways....). Currently experiencing a failure to start, which now my guess is the distributor cap (#3). Impressive video!
+Scott Gilles Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I would suggest trying to start it with a little starting fluid in the air flow find out if it's a fuel pump or the spark
How many miles does your Sonoma have?
I'm having that problem right now...it was down for a about 4 months I changed the starter and it never turned over since....but I just now replaced the distributor cap and rotor so wish me luck
I would check the fuel pump and I know this comment is over a year old but I had to replace mine 12 years ago. I no longer own the truck but mine would turn over fine but it wouldn't start but sometimes it would sputter.
When you change the intake manifold gaskets, if the dexcool has not been removed from the cooling system, do it at that time. It is part of the reason the LIM gaskets fail, the green coolant works out a hell of a lot better.
I've never heard that before but the previous owner of my 2000 GMC ENVOY / s10 Blazer all dressed up had flushed a refilled the system with the green coolant. I always wondered why he did that and I was thinking that he had green coolant on hand when he flushed and refilled. I know the dex cool is supposedly less toxic to animals if you had a coolant leak or got into an accident and lost all your coolant. Thanks for the tip super appreciated. Eddie J. Long Island NY
Yes, just YES.....don't ask me how I know
Had an 03 ext cab v6 automatic. Ole lady sold it in 2016. Had 235k on it- 80k when bought. Water and fuel pumps. Front end parts. Was needing the intake gasket done but running 200 miles a day 65-80 mph. AC cropped out also. Overall a great little used truck I drove 150k miles over 7 yrs. Just bought a 2000 ext cab v6 2 wd with 174k miles for $3500 today. All the truck I need for rural Az and the dirt road I live on.
I just got a 98 Chevy s10.....as a project to work on ....I look forward to working on this ....this will be like , my 15th vehicle I've restored ....and , I sold my last project car for 9000 dollars ! ......got it for 300 and drove it home ....2000 pontiac firebird ....did all restoration from UA-cam....not bad for an old retired guy ...I think 🤔....thanks for the upload and just subscribed to your channel .....Marcus in west Texas
I'm glad I saved myself the hassle and went ahead & got an older Frontier.
Thanks by your information!!! Over s10 i like model 99 with airbag
I have subscribed ..i have had 3 GMC Jimmys pretty much the same thing.I really like the trucks and yes all of these problems i have experienced.Great video and great channel .Thanks
I don't see why anyone with a stock bed would drop the tank. Its 6 bolts to remove the bed. If you loosen but dont remove the rear bolts you can tip it back and get to the pump alone. I put a milk crate between the bed and frame to give me the room I needed.
Yes sir
The tank itself is only 2 🔩 bolts
Tippin it back in and work because there wasn't enough room to get the leverage to put the gasket on top where the fuel pump goes in because it's super hard to get off on the 2.2 you literally have to get on top of it and hammer it back into place because it's a spinning locking 3-prong fitting that goes on top of it this one and not a snap fitting on the 2.2 03 LS
No lifting a Blazer bed.
2002 4.3 crew cab (4 Door) 4x4. If you remove bed you still can't get Full access to fuel pump due to the longer cab over hanging the fuel tank.
I replaced my bed with an exact fit from junk yard and figured it was a great time to repair No-op fuel gauge, fuel pump still operating correctly.
That's how I found out No access to fuel pump with bed removed. I had to drop fuel tank. What a pain without a lift. Fuel gauge problem fixed..
The s10 is a great truck. Getting hard to find these days.
+Farmer Dude357 Thanks for the feedback!
Just bought one today for $2,000 way better looking, 4 door, 4wd, luggage rack and back rack to extend the bed
@@proxgamer7759 how u like it ? Thinking of getting 4 door s 10 as well
Cool good to know, in case I ever sell my V6 Vortex extended cab. I love my S10 bought it new in 1997 its a California truck no road rust.
I just have an intermittent problem with the wiper motor not working all the time.
I'm going to remove it and reheat the solder welds on a couple spots. I understand that they could be cracked and the reason for the issue. No need to replace it with a new one. Great truck otherwise. Always dependable. I wanted to see if he mentioned that here.
Bout to be buying an old s10 show truck for 6k lmao. Sucker is mint id eat off the engine bay 🤣
so THATS why my coolant was brown when I blew up my truck 😂 good to know. Still learning how to work on stuff and this helped me a LOT.
Just a heads up, you do not have to take the dash out of the truck to replace the heater core. If you disconnect and remove the passenger side airbag, you can access it easily through the hole in the dash behind the airbag.
+Billy Masoner We appreciate the feedback. Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair.
What if you don't have a passenger side air bag ?
Wow thanks for that. Any UA-cam video on that? Seriously that is a great tip! Super Appreciated.
Seriously, would’ve done this if I heard about it
352000 miles later now starting to have replacement parts problems. Purchased with 72000 miles paid $4000.00 sure have gotten my monies worth. Been a great pickup. Used for hauling rock firewood etc.2001 S10 4cylinder 2 wheel drive .
Hey guys I always appreciate all the help with all of your videos, can you guys make a video on how to change out the vtec solenoid gasket on a 2006 Honda Civic RC please??? From what I see many ppl are having problems with this starting to leak but I haven’t seen any decent videos online. Thanks again guys and keep up the good work 💯💪
+TRU L. We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1AAuto.com
Got an ‘03 with 100,000 miles on it and it’s been a rock from day one. Not one of those issues came up. Currently parked due to a rear end issue. Chevy dropped the ball by not offering the crew cab in 2wd with a regular box. Looking at building one myself in the future.
+KillerDoxen Thanks for the feedback!
You know a thing or two about these vehicles. Thanks for sharing.
+440 Chrysler Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
I formerly owned a '96 Red Letter version of the bowtie brother ZR2 ordered brand new that year. Drove it for 13 years bullet prove never let set during that time. I always felt GMC had a much nicer interior over chevy. 4x4 shifter was on the floor went into 4WD anytime I needed it to do. No issues with fuel pump period. Always made the effort to have the filter changed when due for oil change. Loved the truck only issue when reached 100 thousand miles was the intake gaskets. AC worked flawlessly when summer came around. I miss my purple ZR2 nicknamed "Barney" by some of my friends. Traded it in 2009 for a rare Chevy HHR SS panel 4which I found out years later of only 216 SS panels built that model year! Dealer manager told me as it was being unloaded off the car carrier that this was the first SS panel sold by them that year!
Own 3 of them my 94 xcab 4x4 has been beaten to death off road been a ton of fun my daily zr5 has been best daily kid hauler I could ask for the 95 single cab it's been chopped slammed and bagged been a great truck most of these problems I've never had but I take care and service them fix stuff when it needs it
Have a S-10 Blazer 2WD 280K. Had many of those problems over the years. Front wheel bearing were high fatality until I switched to Timken. Intake gasket - Went right into the oil ( After stopping could see bubbles coming up from bottom of coolant overflow tank) lol Also had the spider injector go. Felt like it was in the transmission because it would stutter under load. Great video
+Jerry Manning Thanks for the feedback!
I've had to replace the Timkens too.Fortunately under warranty twice!!!!
glad i ran across this video... my 02 zr2 only had two of the 5 issues after a 152.000 miles. fuel pump and transfer switch.... i actually cut a hole in the bed and pop riveted some hinges on the flap. 10 time easier then dropping the tank or taking the bed off....i work at a gm dealer and because of that truck i will never own a gm product again...
Bought a 2003 s10 4X4 4 door. So far I love it. Only have 166k km on it. I gave it a second life... only missing transmission flush, thermostat replacement, both front and rear wheel bearings, driver side ball joints, alignment, revive my abs module....
I'm replying to your transmission part I did the same thing I put synthetic transmission fluid in with Lucas additive what a difference it shifts like it's right off the brand new car lot best thing I ever did
I had one for 21 years (95 S-15, W code Vortec V-6, 2WD) and put 78,000 miles on it. Nice to drive and PLENTY of power when it could be driven. The electrics/electronics (and the fuel injector/distributor in the intake plenum) was a constant aggravation and expense, giving this truck the highest dollar cost to miles driven ratio of any vehicle I've ever owned. It was well maintained and only towed a small lawn trailer about half-dozen times in 21 years. The clincher was a total failure of the transmission and was sold to the shop owner for costs. It was also a hassle because, by production #, it fell into a small transition group known as "OBD 1-1/2's". Not an OBD-1, and not an OBD-2, it really left some parts folks and mechanics scratching their heads. GM finally disavowed any support or responsibility for it. Don't even get me started on the anti-lock brakes...
Hey Dave, I had an s10 1996 4.3L.
I ran a small lawn service with it for 10 years.
I never had to do so much work on a vehicle in my life including race cars that I have built.
The electronics on it was so bad that I basically ended up scrapping a running truck with the exception of the electronics constantly working and then not working and leaving you stranded.
I thought about switching it over to a simple carburetor so many times.
@@davidedward13 got any good info that I should know before buying a 96 4.3L S10? Got my eye on one that’s in decent condition
Had to replace the heater core in my '95 s10. What a job... So many bolts.
I have a 2000 isuzu hombre basically the same truck as a chevy s10 I love the truck. I've owned it 3 years. So far I've only experienced 1 of 5 of these problems the dreaded fuel pump almost $300 at autozone if I looked it up under isuzu hombre. I had autozone look up a chevy s10 fuel pump only paid $130 then went home pulled the bed off my truck with the help of 2 of my neighbors, replaced the fuel pump and truck has treated me great ever since. Very dependable trucks😊 my truck has the 2.2 with a standard 5 speed.
Wanna trade front ends. I have a 2000 bravada
I bought a 94 s10 from my grandpa he bought it brand new in 94 and the thing has had every single problem you listed the only thing that hasn’t been fixed is the blower motor
+Axel C Thanks for the feedback!
I'll be buying my dad's ZR2 in the near future, this info is good to know. I'm going to replace that transfer case vacuum right away. Truck has 80K and is well taken care of, but better safe than sorry. He already had the gaskets and distributor replaced.
Replace the vacuum lines from the nipple sticking out of the drivers fender under the hood(vacuum tank inside fender) to the switch and switch to bulb under battery. Only reason switches fail is from old vacuum lines sucking in moisture.The problem he described with fluid in the hvac O have never seen and I've had 3 s10s and put over 150k on each one and have 215k on my 2002 blazer.I had to put a fuel pump in. Best price and pump is on amazon Delphi pump. Ball joints and steering link bushings wear by 100-140k. My radiator got a crack in the very top in the plastic and would only leak when it was hot and I parked. Thats when the vehicle is its hottest after you turn the motor off. Couldn't see that till I removed the shroud.
I would add in... Alternator, upper and lower ball joints, Radiator, water pump, I would include all gaskets .. otherwise these trucks are bullet proof ..
@@daddyfixit631 I actually replaced the radiators on both my 2000 GMC Jimmy Diamond Edition and a 2001 Blazer SLT I purchased the OEM's through ACDELCO part direct and they were about the same price as the aftermarket or cheaper and I knew from reading up I wouldn't run into issues as some aftermarket brands are slightly bigger or thinker. Always order a new set of transmission line quick connectors as the old ones tend to leak after You've replaced the radiator.
Thanks for the video. That being said Leaf spring shackles should be added to the ever growing list especially if you live in the rust belt of the US
Watching this atm.. have a n 03 blazer LS 4x4.. have done intake manifold, distributor, wheel bearing hub , awesome vid.. sub'd!
yup, 1999 one owner truck bought with 180.000 on it. had to replace fuel pump. didn't bother removing bed. sawsalled out area over tank/pump replaced from on top. it was rusted badly so no big deal. other than that great truck.
Bonus points if you duct taped the cutout back in!
That's exactly what happened to all my HVAC actuators it took me a while to find that out love the ZR2!!! 4.3 is a tried and true v6 LOL great video
low output v6.. but yup they are tank of little engines. great setup
Literally a 350 with 2 less cylinders
UGH, I have a '99 S-10 Blazer and I've replaced the fuel pump like 4 times. Sadly, I'm at the point I've gotten pretty good at it. Be extremely careful with the pressure valve on the front end of the tank. It's easy to break the little nozzle off and since it's molded into the tank you then need either replace the tank or find a way to patch a rather large hole. BTW - Great video guys. Thanks.
I've replaced those damn fuel pumps more than I've wanted to with the 3 D-10s I've owned over the years!!!!!!!
I never had good luck with those aftermarket fuel pumps I put a GM fuel pump it was like $87 I used to carry popping hammered bang on the on the fuel tank to get fuel pump going that way you can always make it home I'm disabled now I cut some corners 86 started leaking coolant drained all the antifreeze out to put two bottles bars leak in it Granite with just plain water until it stopped leaking, change the oil went back with antifreeze no leaks I think I re-torque the intake bolts it was my own vehicle and I couldn't afford to pay somebody else to fix the time
Did you regularly run the tank empty?
late comment but curious
That was depressing, I still have my 94' I bought new and has had none of this. It has never stranded me but I did have a brake line rot thru, finding out moving down the road was new and exciting. Outside of batteries, normal crap, 3 windshields, 1 lower ball joint (65k ago), wiper motor and water pump.....it's been a good truck.
+Bender Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have a 94 also has been very reliable all I've had to do was fuel pump.
I got my 2001 s10 quad cab 4x4 a few years ago and I’ve been happy with it. Only issue I have is the rear main seal leaks a bit. Other then that everything is good passes smog 4x4 works engine and trans is smooth
A lot of times as with the 95 z-R2 I had was the spider injection lines which are a hard plastic will melt and cause it not to start. I learned after a new fuel filter and pump.
The S10 is a good truck if maintained properly. I am a 2nd owner of a 1995 that has the 2.2 and automatic. I bought it with a leaking head gasket, notorious on the 2.2. After pulling motor, cab and bed to re paint frame and bottom side of truck , put back together and in less than 24,000 blew head gasket again. I would recommend if you get one with the 2.2 , get a manual transmission. The automatic I believe revs to high. Doing a V8 swap right now along with a newer 4L60E and a 8.8 Ford rear end. Covid-19 has screwed up the supply chain for parts so that's why the truck is only 90% complete right now. Sure , they have issues, but what vehicle doesn't.
It's interesting because back In 2001 I bought a brand new S10 with the 2.2L engine and drove it until 2019. I put 320,000 miles on that truck and had none of these problems. The only thing I had to replace was the alternator and starter once, the exhaust once after 200k, brakes, and tires. It was the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned. It was still running good when I sold it, although it was starting to use a little oil. About a quart per month. But that was with well over 300k on the engine.
These are some cool looking trucks and they can tow a heavy load another problem is oil leaks on the oil pan gasket and crankshaft seal over all good truck and the 4.3 liter is a beast
Recently bought a s10 good to know the most common problem
Have had one for 3 years, out of these have experienced the last 3
Upper lower ball joint upper and lower ball joint and alternator.
@@breckenhelsley4831 i just bought an 01 s10 and when I go to hit the brakes the steering wheel shakes, what could be causing that?
@@amez1k636 Rotors or calipers are sticking
Thank you very much great video or your videos are fun I got a question when: does Lieke do the intake do you have to replace the head gasket to or just you kid away with just replacing the intake gaskets👀🌿Thank you again I love all your videos
Lower intake is all you need to replace for the issue he described. I have a 98 s10 truck and a 2002 s10 blazer and changed intake gaskets on both do to coolant loss and oil consumption.
I don't know how you do your videos and I really don't care to know.I want to thank you because it's very intresting.
I love the bungee cords on the muffler 🤣
Heater core is not bad on these, I have done one in about 1 hour and some change. Also 2 more huge issues with these trucks are the spider injector and also the rear main seal.
+S10rm Trooper Thanks for checking us out!
What about having to jack the engine up 1" to change the starter every 75,000 miles? lol Last year I thought I needed a new 4WD vacuum switch acuator and it was quoted a $200 job...ended up being only needing to replace a faulty vacuum line, which had age related deterioration after 26 years, for $35 at the local repair shop...Have never had any Distributor related issues, or leaking anti-freeze issues, or fuel pump issues....Only problems on my 1995 4WD S10 has been a dash cluster going out at 99,995, a universal joint, 2 starters and 1 fuel filter...engineers stuff the fuel filter in a terrible spot and as ssaid before you must jack the engine up 1" in order to replace the starter...Love my pickup. with 188K
The best thing you can buy for your S10 is a Haynes repair manual that is available from most auto parts stores ( buy it from 1A auto if they have it👍)
Or ebay and buy it for a buck or 2 .
Guts of the catalytic converter can come loose, rolling forward and backward inside. This can clog the exhaust, bogging down the engine and causing kickdown issues. That's how I got my 97 blazer for $500...10 years/100K ago- and counting. I lived in an emissions exempt state for a long time, so I just cut it off and straight piped it to the muffler. Got to where I couldn't hear anything over the exhaust to troubleshoot other minor issues, and I wanted to keep it cheap, so I simply mated a 2nd muffler in place of the cat. Worked like a charm. Since then, I've moved to a state where it matters, so I rebuilt the exhaust with aftermarket parts, and haven't had a problem since. All in, I might have $1200 total in the vehicle. One day, that heater core is going to go out and I'm going to rig it with Tanerite and do my best to launch it into orbit around the earth.
+Charlie Mountain Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I wish I would’ve used Tannerite on my 96 at 10 they gave me headaches and pleasures for 10 years straight.
I would also add front crankshaft seal, oil cooler lines , ignition coil and fuel pump relay (carry an extra relay in glove compartment)
I've got a '95 with 293k. Replaced the fuel pump once, heater core 3 times, radiator 2 times, lower ball joints at least 3 times, clutch once, front and rear bearings once.
I just purchased a 2000 chevrolet s10 blazer LT 4wd 4 door. And it had a P0404 code and P1345. I replaced the EGR valve and camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor. Which the crankshaft position sensor was broken inside the block and was a pain to get it out. And I just last night replaced the distributor cap, rotor button, plugs, plug wires, new coil, air filter, oil filter, changed the oil, and fuel pump with sending unit and fuel filter. No more codes. Only abs light on. I also put a brand new exhaust which includes a Flowmaster high flow catalytic converter and 40 series 2 chamber Flowmaster muffler with all 2 and a half inch piping and ran in all in factory location. But its still sluggish, and throttle response is not there like I know a S-Series has for the 4.3 vortec motor. Didn't know if you or anyone can tell me what my next path can be to replacing parts or diagnose anything.
Great video!
Got 1 of your fuel pumps in my 2003. Has never started that fast since I owned it
I got a 99 chevy Xtreme with the 4.3 v6 vortec motor in it. I can agree with the fuel pump issue... Also nice Fursona. :)
I'am Your Newest Subscriber Great Videos
Had a 02 Mine was crappy A/C kept blowing fuses air emission system needed replacing after 2 years when I got the truck brand new the door handle for the extended cab broke Got rid of the truck over a year later after these issues
See my separate post on wiring in a $10 "self-resetting 10Amp circuit breaker" - fixed my A/C intermittent fuse blowing issue.
I had two 1998 S 10's, the only problem I had was Universal joints that went bad every 10,000 miles. I got really good at replacing them.
I had a shop in Ronkonkoma Long Island replace my rear u-joint and on the way home that night from a party I started to hear a load humming and bang the two cars behind backed off and I realized my drive shift blew out and I let my truck roll as far as possible to the side of the expressway. One of the cars pulled over and the lady said something large fell out. I looked and yep the drive shift was missing and there was transmission fluid all under the truck and on the back. AAA took four hours they showed up at 4:30AM I had tried to see if I could get it to go into 4x4 and limp the truck home but that didn't work. The next day went back and found the bent up drive shift and looking at the U-joint the shop in Lake Ronkonkoma that replaced the U-joint forgot to put the grease fitting in meaning they never greased the U-joint. I had AAA tow the truck to that shop and they were willing to replace the drive shift ok few hours later they tell me my transmission won't go into gear and blamed me.. ummm hello if your driving and your drive shift falls out the seal between the drive shift and transmission can't hold the transmission oil in duh. Anyway, I needed the truck back ASAP and laid out the $700.+ for a used Transmission. The used transmission has a whine under acceleration but its not horrible. I know most of you are saying I should have sued the shop but I didn't and I still us em but a short time later I had asked them to find out why my four wheel drive wasn't engaging and they said I needed a new transfer case control module and wanted $400.+ to replace it. I looked it up and it's the kick plate on the floor of the passenger side and three nuts and two connectors. I borrowed one out of my rare 2000 GMC ENVOY and bam fixed. I later purchased a new one. If you have this problem make sure you get the right unit the plugs are color coded and I believe there are three different unit.
My a friend’s feet was getting wet, when he said something about it. He also mentioned that it was hot. A few minutes later when I pulled over to check. He noticed that the water was brown. It was a simple fix. I just bypassed it. That winter, it was a completely different story.
Loss of heat can also be caused by a vacuum leak, the same problem causes your vents not to change from defrost to dash to floor vents so before you pull your dash check for a vacuum leak. Also, I had a friend with a GMC Sonoma and he had no heat, his problem was his truck was low on water in the radiator, no hot water no heat, also if you're low enough on water your gage won’t read correctly so you won't know you've got a problem.
+Sandy Lloyd Sr. Thanks for the tip!
#1= 0:25 heater core
#2= 1:40 intake gaskets
#3= 3:35 distributor
#4= 5:00 front wheel bearings
#5= 5:35 fuel pump
#6= 7:11 Bonus tip= concerning 4 wheel drive,
Anyone else notice how bald the back tires are?😂
mine are like that on my s10 lol
Holy over pressured tires batman... lol
Yep
yeah, i noticed immediately...they are overinflated big time
The hvac plastic hose near front driver side fender also cracks and can cause engine to not run good. Also the MAF sensor never throws codes when bad. Took me a long time to realize it was that when truck was spittin and sputtering.. quick way to see if MAF sensor bad unplug it and if it runs normal then buy new MAF sensor
+vortecemachine Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Very good video. I have a 03 ZR/2. Ref. intake gasket- this bad gasket problem is on 4.3ltr v-6's in all Chevy/GMC models, not just S-10's. The coolant only flows across the front of the intake, when mine started leaking, it came out at the bottom corners at the front of the intake were it meets the heads. I didn't get any coolant in my oil. At about 115K miles. I changed the injection spider, water pump and power steering pump while I was in there. They were all OK, but when you have it that torn down, might as well be proactive if you can afford the parts IMO.
Ref. distributors- If you ever take the distributor out, replace the whole distributor with an aluminum body one from Summit or other source if you have a composite distributor.
This engine has an unusual distributor cap design, do not use the #1 ignition wire to set the rotor on #1. If you look carefully at the distributor cap bottom (inside), you'll see that the rotor position for #1 is on the opposite side of the cap. Recommend you get a book and follow distributor install instructions carefully, it's actually easy if you do it right.
I love my S-10 ZR/2.
+X-Man Thanks for checking us out, we appreciate the feedback! Glad to hear you got the distributor issue fixed, we will pass this info along to our production team.
@@1AAuto The problem with the composite distributor is that the screws that hold the cap on will snap off in the composite body. My book even says to chase the threaded holes in the distributor before reinstalling a new cap. I doubted them, never heard of such a thing and couldn't see how you would do that with the distributor installed anyway. I was finishing up it's first tune up, wasn't interested in a rabbit chase so I tested their theory. SNAP, followed be a minute or so of swearing. No problems with the aluminum body distributor, came with a new module also.
my distributor gear some how got slop in it and caused a cam, sensor correlation difference code
@@Iahusha777Iahuah Probably timing chain wear/stretch/slop. The 4.3's need a chain tensioner that is a factory part, GM knew of the problem but didn't include them in new 4.3's but there is a factory bulletin. It made a sound like it was pinging (detonation) really loudly and I made them fix my 96 and 03 S-10's but they were still under warranty. Don't know how familiar you are with 4.3's but they have a counter balance shaft in the motor above the camshaft. Puts extra rotating mass on the timing chain. Those distributor's gears are only as good as their heat treat too but that's the same distributor as 1st Gen small and big block Chevy V-8's and really solid history. One of those gears break and it usually destroys the motor.
Think about all that slop going back and forth in the timing chain and how that correlates to the can position sensor.
Damn I'm grateful my heater still works really good, plus the last owner never changed anything in this truck but I'm still slowly fixing it up and spent about $900 on parts 😅
I envy you. Gave my dad mine while it was new in 03. He passed in 2020, and I found it in a storage yard, packed full and in pieces. 15k$+ after rebuilding the trans last year.
Right out of the gate.. boom heater core.. part for my 2003 Chevy S10 isn't that much, but a whopping $800 labor.. which I was told is about an 8 hour job..I put a bypass kit on my truck for the time being, but it sucks not having heat on those cold mornings, or not having defrost heat either.. I've gotten pretty creative on the many ways to keep warm while driving, such as a lighter plug in lil heater, plug in heated lap blanket, hand warmers ect.. putting out 800 bucks is just something I don't want to have to do.. thinking about trying to learn how to do it myself.. looks intimidating! 😳
Had a hell a lot more problems then those five issues
Exactly
Ive had problems on everything but the transmissions on the s10s ive owned. From front to back everything has had problems.
You are completely awesome. Wish I could buy parts from you directly.
You can Tojo
+Hideki Savage Thanks for the feedback!
This video makes me really miss pure mechanical systems. My old Datsun 510 was supremely simple and reliable.
Awesome! Thanks for Checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Nice job!!