Also please remember. This is not meant to be the most insane roll cage ever made. This is not meant to be the safest car ever built. This is supposed to be something that anyone watching can re-create with minimal skill and effort. I have built several cages that are custom and MUCH safer. No dead nodes, DOM tube, gusseted, etc. That is NOT what this was meant to be. This is meant to pass tech and be safe for most 1/4 mile racetracks across the country. So please don't comment on "how wrong" or "how bad" this cage is. It is very standard stuff for any circle track build/tech requirements. Thank you for watching!
Again this isn't a custom cage. Just showing what someone could do with basic stuff at home to get out and racing. As you see in the video my custom cage fits much nicer. I will be doing a custom cage in the next one coming very soon!
I found a kit with round tubing on the bottom and for the seat mount, so i was able to use that tubing to make my gace legal, and the dor bars were bent on bolth ends i paied about $400 .👍
I was glad to see you didn't use the slider brackets and properly notched the bars. Those brackets are ridiculous. I can't imagine where they'd be legal to run.
The slider brackets are actually stronger than notching the tubing and butt welding it. Much more weld surface area and the tube is contained as opposed to just butted against the other tube. With that being said I also prefer the butting tubes. It just looks cleaner and I've never had one break and several cars I've built have flipped pretty violently. I've never used a 110 welder on a cage either. I don't like if you have to max it out to get the results you want. I know plenty that do it though. Good luck and be safe.
Techically all DOM starts as a strip that is formed into tube and then welded, just like EW. It is then cold worked "over a mandrel" to give it the final (more consistent) ID and OD and of course remove the weld line. This also tends to make it more rigid, not a giant difference though. EW will be just fine for short track racing.
I would have mounted the bar over the steering wheel instead of under neath it, plus most dirt tracks wont let you run the windshield,but I guess you are gonna remove it and replace it with 1/4 screen, also some tracks require a fuel cell, or at least mount more straps to hold the gas tank. Last time I ever messed with a dirt car was in 79, it was a 68 Chevelle with a 307, and a three speed manual, good luck and tear em up
Quite a few hours yes! But it only took $960 to build this one! Last race in this class paid $4100 to win! If you want to see how the racing is just check out the video of the race! Lots of onboard footage included :)
Yes for sure. You could spend a few more hours and another 50 bucks and make it pretty strong. (for what it is) I will be adding a few that came with the kit at a minimum.
@@Tuesdaynightstripper just make sure you follow the duty cycle. if you go over that you will still get a decent looking bead but you'll lose penetration when it start getting hot.
Now I know why you killed the living fuck out of my impact drill when I lent it to you.... Cheap Chinese replacements are not acceptable for family members
Also please remember. This is not meant to be the most insane roll cage ever made. This is not meant to be the safest car ever built. This is supposed to be something that anyone watching can re-create with minimal skill and effort. I have built several cages that are custom and MUCH safer. No dead nodes, DOM tube, gusseted, etc. That is NOT what this was meant to be. This is meant to pass tech and be safe for most 1/4 mile racetracks across the country. So please don't comment on "how wrong" or "how bad" this cage is. It is very standard stuff for any circle track build/tech requirements. Thank you for watching!
so I'm guessing built more for a pdx/hpde. what is your take on fixed back bucket seats, with oem belt, and no roll bar.
Just found these videos and there honestly the best 👍🏻 great work
Thank you!
This video series is actually epic
Thanks man! Appreciated.
Big help! The roll cage part helps with me building a ucar! Thank YOU!!!!!!!!!
It's DK any time! Thanks for watching!
That Racing Life Your welcome. Do you know a good place online to look for a ford probe?
You can try some Facebook groups or good old craigslist!
That Racing Life Okay, Thanks!
It would bug me if my cage did not fit my car. My OCD is horrible lol. But nice videos. I have watched this series before but had to watch it again.
Again this isn't a custom cage. Just showing what someone could do with basic stuff at home to get out and racing. As you see in the video my custom cage fits much nicer. I will be doing a custom cage in the next one coming very soon!
I found a kit with round tubing on the bottom and for the seat mount, so i was able to use that tubing to make my gace legal, and the dor bars were bent on bolth ends i paied about $400 .👍
I was glad to see you didn't use the slider brackets and properly notched the bars. Those brackets are ridiculous. I can't imagine where they'd be legal to run.
Pretty much every circle circle track. Lol
The slider brackets are actually stronger than notching the tubing and butt welding it. Much more weld surface area and the tube is contained as opposed to just butted against the other tube. With that being said I also prefer the butting tubes. It just looks cleaner and I've never had one break and several cars I've built have flipped pretty violently. I've never used a 110 welder on a cage either. I don't like if you have to max it out to get the results you want. I know plenty that do it though. Good luck and be safe.
Techically all DOM starts as a strip that is formed into tube and then welded, just like EW. It is then cold worked "over a mandrel" to give it the final (more consistent) ID and OD and of course remove the weld line. This also tends to make it more rigid, not a giant difference though. EW will be just fine for short track racing.
I would have mounted the bar over the steering wheel instead of under neath it, plus most dirt tracks wont let you run the windshield,but I guess you are gonna remove it and replace it with 1/4 screen, also some tracks require a fuel cell, or at least mount more straps to hold the gas tank. Last time I ever messed with a dirt car was in 79, it was a 68 Chevelle with a 307, and a three speed manual, good luck and tear em up
Placed that bar close to bumper height as that's where most impacts take place. Everyone has their own ways and beliefs. Thanks for watching man!
Thats how its doooone!!
I realize racing isn’t always safe, but would you ask your helper to put on eye protection!
David Powell he's a beast. Can't even make him wear shoes half the time! 😂
another thing, you putting mad hours building a $5k car? haven't seen all vids yet... must be some harsh racing! lol
Quite a few hours yes! But it only took $960 to build this one! Last race in this class paid $4100 to win! If you want to see how the racing is just check out the video of the race! Lots of onboard footage included :)
Señor
Where did you get the cage at
There is a link in description of the video when I picked it up. Dont have the link at the moment.
Where did u order the roll cage from im building me a dirt track car
lefthanderchassis.com/v2a/16_viewproduct_product.asp?idproduct=001356
Thanks man
No problem!
What are those toys you guys are rinding on at 1:51
Jaxon Greene that would be a crazy cart!
Where did you get the kit from?
Left hander chassis.
lefthanderchassis.com/v2a/16_viewproduct_product.asp?idproduct=001356
I fixed the link. Sorry about that.
Still can't find it.
Click this link. lefthanderchassis.com/v2a/16_viewproduct_product.asp?idproduct=001356
Would gussets help with the flex on the $300 cage?
Yes for sure. You could spend a few more hours and another 50 bucks and make it pretty strong. (for what it is) I will be adding a few that came with the kit at a minimum.
What welder are you using?
Just the basic Lincoln 140hd from Home Depot. The trick is to use the .025 wire not the .035.
Sweet that’s the exact welder I’ve got, I just wasn’t sure if it had enough “lead in its pencil “ for structural cage work.
Seems to be working for me. You just have to max it out and run the .025 wire. go slow. take your time.
@@Tuesdaynightstripper just make sure you follow the duty cycle. if you go over that you will still get a decent looking bead but you'll lose penetration when it start getting hot.
wheres part 1 and 2? cant find it
Part 1: ua-cam.com/video/jTBTAqp-a_g/v-deo.html
Part 2: ua-cam.com/video/RChy-33eOSE/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching!
what are the hardlines under the door sill?
I hope not fuel
awvz77 some are brake lines. Some are fuel.
not to joke... that's built like NASCAR shit?
Pretty typical of any local short track build. Actually this is nicer than most in this class. LOL
Now I know why you killed the living fuck out of my impact drill when I lent it to you.... Cheap Chinese replacements are not acceptable for family members
Yeah never lend those out!