I hope all the haters in the beginning that said repairing the 240 wasnt possible come back to see just how good this thing came together. Brackets and body lines fit perfect, super impressive man
Scrape and prep any surface rust on the underside of the car, and paint it with POR-15. You can seam seal after that and put another coat on the car. I used it on my 240 after cleaning up the battery tray area. The stuff dries as hard as rock and a little of it goes a long way. Do not get it on your skin, or you'll be wearing it for a month.
Just used some por 15 on my integra. Tripped carrying the cam over to the car. Got it all over my shirt. Put the shirt in a bin in super hot water/soap. The damn por15 still dried. It’s crazy how good it is.
@20:11 every single one of those bare metal welds needs to be etching premiered, and then once dry every single one of those welds/seams has to be seam sealed so moisture and water wont ever get into the pores of the welds and rust it or even get through metal from pin holes to damage carpets ect with moisture damage. you needs to etch primer and seam seal everything....... everything.!! and then can use a spray on or roll on bed liner or undercarriage coating.
From my experience for undercoating I would say wire wheel the whole underside of the car, apply POR-15 as your rust preventative, but it needs help because it’s a thin product, then seam seal your joints then use 3M rubberized undercoating, it’ll mimic the factory undercoating and keep everything nice and clean, loving the build bro you got this, I can’t wait to see ole girl on the road again 🤘
Good stuff Mike. My only recommendation if you have more areas similar to the frame rail situation where you have to cut and splice like that. Drill you some plug weld holes for added strength. Plug weld your holes once it sits how you want, grind flush, then add your brace pieces on top. Plug welds are your friend! Most cars are entirely plug welded. Again awesome progress and going to be back on the street soon!
That's honestly a great point! I don't know why I didn't think of that when boxing in that rear frame rail I'll go back and drill some holes. Thanks for the insight🙌
For the welds and bare metal first hit it with 1) rust converter, once you have all bare covered 2) hit everything with Epoxy. Once you done that, use some of the water sealer glue to make it look factory and also seal everything and final step cover everything with some underseal. Dont forget to use cavity wax to te closed areas so the car will not rust inside
you are a literal inspiration to me, i love how positive you are. watching you actually makes me believe anything i put my mind to is possible. Hope i can find a nice s chassis for my next car. Cant get one now since i have to pay off my existing miata, but i hope i will be able to get one in 4 years. love you dude
When you first started working on this car I thought there was no way it’s going to get put back together. You are a machine. Going through more welding wire and gas than a trade school. Keep it up. She will be driving again in no time!
I came across your series and have been power watching all of the episodes. I can not stress enough that grinding the over welds down and seam sealing. IF you do not do it you WILL regret it later. I can truly say you love your car and want it to look and ride better than before the accident. So please take your time and polish off all of the little stuff as you go or it will over whelm you later.
Mike Man, I've been watching your videos since that fateful day and it makes my day every Saturday night (Aussie) seeing your video pop up in my sub box. Thank you so much for the content and I cannot wait until this car is done.
I coated my body dropped mazda b2200 pickup truck with tractor supply implament/tractor pant. It had a full custom frame as well as majour welding on the under body. The project fell through and it sat in my back yard in the grass in canada and when i towed it away 10 years later all the spots i coated in tractor paint were nearly mint like i had just done the work. The price is very affordable and if you ever tap a wall and need to bash out some panels you can recoat them with a brush. Great video. Reminds me of building my truck around the same age.
Wire wheel all your seams and welds, epoxy prime all bare metal, seam seal with paintable flexible seam sealer then paint with underbody coating of your choice. Epoxy is the best protection on bare metal and would be doable in the garage on stands. Been following this from the start, stoked on the progress!!
Woke up to see mike posted, thanks for the morning wood bro🤝, when you said picking up the motor I literally got excited af like if i was the one picking it up for my car, this car is gonna be so fuckin sexy🥹
man I can't be the only one to think that with this rebuild could have been a great opportunity to do a S13 Silvia front end swap, however pop ups are still cool and it's a good looking car no matter which form. And this thing is gonna be a beast once it's back together. I am anticipated and excited for the next video mike! :D
You give me so much inspiration you did basically the impossible if someone else was in your position they would’ve probably given up by then and bought another 240 but you never gave up on it
For botum of the car I used acid base primer on clean metal, then epoxy primer. Then polyurethane sealant then one more time epoxy primer. After that acrylic paint. On top of that undercoating mixed with ML. Then antigravel and then one more time undercoating. :) For hard to reach areas for example chassis rails inside acid braised primer and then ML. I don't say the brands because you live in another part of world. :)
Wire wheel all the welds so they're shiny, then you have to use seam sealer applied on all welds. Do that to both sides as best as possible and the repair will be solid. You can apply the seam sealer with an acid brush or push it on like caulking. It doesn't need to be smooth or pretty, just covering the seam. From there a good primer, paint, then stone guard and it'll be perfect.
Been watching since day one of this build and it is a lot of inspiration to fix up my beater truck keep up the good work and can’t wait to see the end result 🤘🏼❤️
seam sealer all the welds (also to avoid pinhole leaks), somehing like POR15 all over the underside, you could even paint white over it and clearcoat to get the full rally effect (you can see what's leaking or got hit). Finally cavity wax any area that is boxed in, including frame rails if you can access them
Been watching this all the way through the process. Love the dedication to rebuilding the car. It makes me dedicated to finish my build sooner. Love the content cant wait to see the finished outcome.
This is quickly becoming one of my favorite project series on youtube. The way I found this channel is kind of funny- For one reason or another, i decided to search for "s13 crashes". Dont know why. Just did. I happened to find this channel about when the accident happened. When i hear you go "And im gunna fix it!" I couldnt help but laugh. "Lolol ok man. SURE you will!" And then you got start. You released video after video of you fixing it. More and more. Little by little. I cant express how great its been to have been proven wrong. The progress thats been made is amazing. I abandoned the idea that youd never do it long ago- And now I cant wait to see it finished. I love this series and am always excited when i see a new upload.
You starting this series (if you wanna call it that) made me start finishing my s13, it gave me motivation after letting mine sit in the garage for 5 months and I just wanna thank you for that. Keep it up!
This dude is killing this I can’t wait for it to be back on the road. He’s been nothing but positive the whole build and makin the best outta every situation I would have lost my mind a while ago props to you bud.
Recommendation for under coating. Look into brush ON under coating. Some brush on under coating convert rust to under coating and prevent rust. Can't remember or how to explain it. Haha Its known and used for classic cars 70's and older vehicle with under coating situations. Hope this helps for the recommendation you need. Learned and watched this from another youtuber Dylan McCool Dodge Challenger.
To cover the welds first Im using epoxy rust converter Brunox is my favorite when it comes to it. After that I'm applying Dinitrol 401 Brushseal. I don't know is it sold in States but anything like it will do the job. This one is easy to apply with a basic brush, just use synthetic one, it just easier to spread material. And to finish it off sort Gravitex will do, and of course finishing with a paint will make everything look nice. After you are done welding your last panel, spray every section of inner side of the pockets, panels doors with inner cavity wax. 3M has some good products. I'm sure you probably know all of that but this is how I do it and what I use.
Very beautiful job and I am so happy for you and the car workout please stay safe out there with the people that like diving like pieces of s*** GOD BLESS YA AND YOUR FAMILY AND FRIENDS
bro ur 240 is getting some good progress in it now. pretty close for the big boy rb to go back in it and i cant wait to see more of ur vids they make me wanna go out and get a car to work on.
Make sure you use seam sealer on all of those welded edges/surfaces. Like people mention here don’t use POR15. That’s a rust inhibitor but not actually a sealer. You should use regular spray sealer and then use an undercoating of your choice
Also the original inner quarter panel can be seen that is bent under the spot weld area, thats why there is a height difference. In case you havent noticed yet! Great to see your progress man!!
So awesome to see the progress coming along man!! I’d look at a good quality seam sealer and undercoat. Maybe try Granville Gpro brush on, probably easier led on your back. Have you considered getting a rotisserie stand so you can spin the chassis onto its side and get at the underneath much easier??
For the welds under the car, I would use a good 2K primer or a strong anti-rust paint like POR15, RustSeal, or Rustbullet. Then, apply seam sealer over any welds that you don't think are waterproof. After that, you can clean up the rest of the underside and undercoat the whole thing. Don't use cheap undercoating either, use 3M or something like that.
Got in a crash at a roundabout with my '64 volvo 544 yesterday. Was going to put it away this weekend and now it's gonna be off the road for a while. Not nearly what you went through but can relate to the feeling. Never even gotten a ticket or anything before.
Hay fam! I know its old news. And i know i should probs be watching more of ur vids to help out. But its nice to see u have this thing and see all the work done to it. Especially after the accident... Big ups to dudes like u man!!!
Just wire wheel off what you can. Seam seal all the welds and then I'd use raptor liner on the whole bottom. Very diy friendly and not too expensive. I'd consider the same for the inside. You can even do white on the inside.
Always good to see your progress bro!!! You made me spend more time under my car, to the point that I'm almost working on it everyday, at least a small task at a time and I'm really glad for it! You are a legend and an inspiration!!! Keep it up!!!
Por-15 is designed to paint over rust I don't think I would use that. My best friend is from Sweden and he used to engine stands beefed them up and made a home made rotisserie. It worked perfect id do that clean it and use maybe a truck bed liner coating.
i did alot of panel replacement in the bottom of my 280z and used chassis saver same as por 15 and its been great 5 years later and no rust, just make sure you lay it down in thin coats 3-5 . thick layers dry weird and being under gravity causes pockets
She’s coming back together man! It looks awesome! Upon buying my integra and now subsequently ripping the gas tank out of my wrx for a fuel cell, undercoat gets used like wd40 at my house. The stuff I used was called Chassis Saver, and I will swear by it until the day I die. the stuff dries hard as a rock, I have looked for rock chips in the places I have done previously and have found almost none. It has held up great on the integra, no noticeable flaking or chips from crap picked up by the tires.
Awesome work once again buddy! A) You should consider buying or creating a car rotisserie , with your welding skills.. It will help you rotate the car and work with ease.. B) You can remove the old residue with dry ice or grinding but the are many kits that have products for these kind of jobs C) Search for : Broken silvia channel in youtube, and for "Poor mans GTR " series of episodes.. he has done what you are about to do on a budget in his garage providing many usefull information! Lets gooooo!
i would recommend using truck bed liner to under coat the car there is some really good stuff called raptor liner that would work great i used it to under coat my gs300 when i raised the floor pan (stance car} and it heled up really well it was good for sound deadening as well
Awesome videos can’t wait to see it finally finished. I would recommend using por15 to coat the welds they have kits that treat the metal and then seal it I use it on my own cars and it is very durable.
Clean Off the Wells -> Put Epoxy 2K Primer on -> Then seam seal the welds (Teroson is a really good seam sealer)-> then some thick brush on emaille Paint -> Last step ist good undersealant. Like Teroson SB3000 or similar.
I prefer Bedliner over under coating. It’s some tough stuff, and you can get the kind you roll/ brush on which is nice when you’re laying under it trying to paint it.
@19:33 you can see the lower section of the panel on the right is bent, causing it to sit lower then the exact same panel just to the left of it. this means if you correct the bent lower section of the panel on the right, it will straighten out and cause the panel on the right to not only sit higher but also allow the two panels to line up along the length of the car, as i see currently that one panel sits slightly further forward then the other, about 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch. correcting the bent lower section will solve alignment issues for you their. so long answer short, the panel on the right needs to be (raised) up to align with the panel on the left
@19:35 you can see that lower section is bent in couple small spots for out 8-12 inches along that horizontal body line just above the floor section of the wheel tub. if you correct that bent wavey section on the right side panel it will better alighn with the un bent (but modified) panel.
For the undercoat, defininately Por-15 or truck bedliner IMO I prefer bedliner, that’s what I did on my Silvia , the result are better and very durable But I would seam seal all the welds before shooting any undercoating
I think progress well😊👍 Lookin' forward rebone your 240SX!😊 But..It is same RB's weak point(headder stud is easier to break) all around the world😅←I possesed ECR33 & HCR32, had broken both😂 Someday, I'm lookin' forward to meet at Nikko, Mobara, and more😊 It is better leave about 2 studs and the others change the stiffer bolts💪👍 So, it can reduce exhost leakage👍
I hope all the haters in the beginning that said repairing the 240 wasnt possible come back to see just how good this thing came together. Brackets and body lines fit perfect, super impressive man
Scrape and prep any surface rust on the underside of the car, and paint it with POR-15. You can seam seal after that and put another coat on the car. I used it on my 240 after cleaning up the battery tray area. The stuff dries as hard as rock and a little of it goes a long way. Do not get it on your skin, or you'll be wearing it for a month.
Just used some por 15 on my integra. Tripped carrying the cam over to the car. Got it all over my shirt. Put the shirt in a bin in super hot water/soap. The damn por15 still dried. It’s crazy how good it is.
I agree POR 15 but I would go the extra step of some Eastwood chassis black on top of that.
Por15 is that GOODSHIT
Por15 doesn't stop rust. It will continue to grow beneath it, use a good acid based converter (Ospho) and a wire wheel, then prime and paint.
Por 15 is crap
Through your consistency, skills and being true to yourself, you deserve a lot of sponsors bro.🔥
Almost time for a cheap rotisserie setup, would help with undercoating the underside
It definitely would! But I'm not sure if I'll end up making one for this project
Nice finally seeing some progress on the 240, gona be a nice ride once all finished up, keep it up Mike
Thanks man! 🤘🔥
@20:11 every single one of those bare metal welds needs to be etching premiered, and then once dry every single one of those welds/seams has to be seam sealed so moisture and water wont ever get into the pores of the welds and rust it or even get through metal from pin holes to damage carpets ect with moisture damage. you needs to etch primer and seam seal everything....... everything.!! and then can use a spray on or roll on bed liner or undercarriage coating.
This is great insight! Thank you for sharing, definitely going to look into what you've recommended!
I’ve been addicted to this series you truly opened up another part of restoration I never thought was possible . Seriously such a inspiration .
From my experience for undercoating I would say wire wheel the whole underside of the car, apply POR-15 as your rust preventative, but it needs help because it’s a thin product, then seam seal your joints then use 3M rubberized undercoating, it’ll mimic the factory undercoating and keep everything nice and clean, loving the build bro you got this, I can’t wait to see ole girl on the road again 🤘
Good stuff Mike. My only recommendation if you have more areas similar to the frame rail situation where you have to cut and splice like that. Drill you some plug weld holes for added strength. Plug weld your holes once it sits how you want, grind flush, then add your brace pieces on top. Plug welds are your friend! Most cars are entirely plug welded. Again awesome progress and going to be back on the street soon!
That's honestly a great point! I don't know why I didn't think of that when boxing in that rear frame rail
I'll go back and drill some holes. Thanks for the insight🙌
I’d recommend por-15, it brushes on and is amazing
Also you can sandblast using a pressure washer and Venturi setup into sand
For the welds and bare metal first hit it with 1) rust converter, once you have all bare covered 2) hit everything with Epoxy. Once you done that, use some of the water sealer glue to make it look factory and also seal everything and final step cover everything with some underseal. Dont forget to use cavity wax to te closed areas so the car will not rust inside
I'd look at 2-part truck bed coatings, or POR15 and related products in their lineup. Love your videos!
I wouldn't use either of those products, there are away better options out there. Truck bed liners are for trucks not cars
you are a literal inspiration to me, i love how positive you are. watching you actually makes me believe anything i put my mind to is possible. Hope i can find a nice s chassis for my next car. Cant get one now since i have to pay off my existing miata, but i hope i will be able to get one in 4 years. love you dude
Sooo close to her being back in the streets and making memories again... She's looking good toooo
When you first started working on this car I thought there was no way it’s going to get put back together. You are a machine. Going through more welding wire and gas than a trade school. Keep it up. She will be driving again in no time!
most wholesome car channel on UA-cam
I came across your series and have been power watching all of the episodes. I can not stress enough that grinding the over welds down and seam sealing. IF you do not do it you WILL regret it later. I can truly say you love your car and want it to look and ride better than before the accident. So please take your time and polish off all of the little stuff as you go or it will over whelm you later.
Most definitely on the to do list! I haven't pulled the trigger on a seam sealer yet because I don't know which is best. Any suggestions?
@@PrizzaMike it is not cheap but anything from Eastwood is always good to go
@@MikhailScottKy I'd rather pay for quality than cheap out and have it fail later! Thanks for the info!
I was so upset today and then I saw that you uploaded, always makes me happy, keep going brothaaa
Mike Man, I've been watching your videos since that fateful day and it makes my day every Saturday night (Aussie) seeing your video pop up in my sub box. Thank you so much for the content and I cannot wait until this car is done.
Cant wait when i see this 240sx driving on the streets
I coated my body dropped mazda b2200 pickup truck with tractor supply implament/tractor pant. It had a full custom frame as well as majour welding on the under body. The project fell through and it sat in my back yard in the grass in canada and when i towed it away 10 years later all the spots i coated in tractor paint were nearly mint like i had just done the work.
The price is very affordable and if you ever tap a wall and need to bash out some panels you can recoat them with a brush.
Great video. Reminds me of building my truck around the same age.
Wire wheel all your seams and welds, epoxy prime all bare metal, seam seal with paintable flexible seam sealer then paint with underbody coating of your choice. Epoxy is the best protection on bare metal and would be doable in the garage on stands. Been following this from the start, stoked on the progress!!
Woke up to see mike posted, thanks for the morning wood bro🤝,
when you said picking up the motor I literally got excited af like if i was the one picking it up for my car, this car is gonna be so fuckin sexy🥹
man I can't be the only one to think that with this rebuild could have been a great opportunity to do a S13 Silvia front end swap, however pop ups are still cool and it's a good looking car no matter which form. And this thing is gonna be a beast once it's back together. I am anticipated and excited for the next video mike! :D
You give me so much inspiration you did basically the impossible if someone else was in your position they would’ve probably given up by then and bought another 240 but you never gave up on it
Man so happy for you!! Love seeing this car come back from the dead!! Great job!!
I like to use Duplicolor Rocker Guard for fender wells and frame rails. Offroad guys use it too. Lays down really nice and holds up strong.
For botum of the car I used acid base primer on clean metal, then epoxy primer. Then polyurethane sealant then one more time epoxy primer. After that acrylic paint. On top of that undercoating mixed with ML. Then antigravel and then one more time undercoating. :) For hard to reach areas for example chassis rails inside acid braised primer and then ML. I don't say the brands because you live in another part of world. :)
Wire wheel all the welds so they're shiny, then you have to use seam sealer applied on all welds. Do that to both sides as best as possible and the repair will be solid.
You can apply the seam sealer with an acid brush or push it on like caulking. It doesn't need to be smooth or pretty, just covering the seam.
From there a good primer, paint, then stone guard and it'll be perfect.
AN INTEGY VIDEO AND A 240 VIDEO IN A WEEK? SOMEONE CHECK ON MIKE THIS IS CRAZY ASF (much love
Haha appreciate you man! Trying my best 💪🔥
You guys realize he's going to have this ready by springtime that's going to be so sick just in time for the season!!!!👍
Been watching since day one of this build and it is a lot of inspiration to fix up my beater truck keep up the good work and can’t wait to see the end result 🤘🏼❤️
Probably not video related but you have the best music taste, thanks for introducing me to the softer side of rock...
Spot on videos as always though🔥
seam sealer all the welds (also to avoid pinhole leaks), somehing like POR15 all over the underside, you could even paint white over it and clearcoat to get the full rally effect (you can see what's leaking or got hit). Finally cavity wax any area that is boxed in, including frame rails if you can access them
@05:42 such an awesome pup!!!!!🤟🐕
POR-15 is the right stuff as some others have already said & Keep up the greatness Mike literally living for your videos lately super motivating 👌🙏👏
Awesome progress man!!! Must have been a really cool feeling removing the jig for the last time! Really coming on now - keep up the great work :)
Been watching this all the way through the process. Love the dedication to rebuilding the car. It makes me dedicated to finish my build sooner. Love the content cant wait to see the finished outcome.
Seam sealer for all the welds underneath and spray cans of linex worked well for the underbody of my jeep
This is quickly becoming one of my favorite project series on youtube.
The way I found this channel is kind of funny- For one reason or another, i decided to search for "s13 crashes". Dont know why. Just did. I happened to find this channel about when the accident happened. When i hear you go "And im gunna fix it!" I couldnt help but laugh. "Lolol ok man. SURE you will!"
And then you got start. You released video after video of you fixing it. More and more. Little by little.
I cant express how great its been to have been proven wrong. The progress thats been made is amazing. I abandoned the idea that youd never do it long ago- And now I cant wait to see it finished. I love this series and am always excited when i see a new upload.
You have changed my mind about what is possible dude. Your attitude is epic!
You starting this series (if you wanna call it that) made me start finishing my s13, it gave me motivation after letting mine sit in the garage for 5 months and I just wanna thank you for that. Keep it up!
Fire content!!! Every week keeps getting better and better. Bed liner like a truck for the bottom end!!!
This dude is killing this I can’t wait for it to be back on the road. He’s been nothing but positive the whole build and makin the best outta every situation I would have lost my mind a while ago props to you bud.
Everybody loves your work
can't wait to see the motor go in, i'm still shocked on how fast this progressed
Recommendation for under coating. Look into brush ON under coating. Some brush on under coating convert rust to under coating and prevent rust. Can't remember or how to explain it. Haha Its known and used for classic cars 70's and older vehicle with under coating situations. Hope this helps for the recommendation you need.
Learned and watched this from another youtuber Dylan McCool Dodge Challenger.
Good afternoon mike your 240 is coming out awesome 😊👍🏽🤙🏽♥️
I've waited for this day for so long I've watched every single video all of it
To cover the welds first Im using epoxy rust converter Brunox is my favorite when it comes to it. After that I'm applying Dinitrol 401 Brushseal. I don't know is it sold in States but anything like it will do the job. This one is easy to apply with a basic brush, just use synthetic one, it just easier to spread material. And to finish it off sort Gravitex will do, and of course finishing with a paint will make everything look nice. After you are done welding your last panel, spray every section of inner side of the pockets, panels doors with inner cavity wax. 3M has some good products. I'm sure you probably know all of that but this is how I do it and what I use.
Very beautiful job and I am so happy for you and the car workout please stay safe out there with the people that like diving like pieces of s*** GOD BLESS YA AND YOUR FAMILY AND FRIENDS
Cant wait to see this thing drive again! 👌
Raptor liner works great it’s a spray in bed liner but can be used to under coat
bro ur 240 is getting some good progress in it now. pretty close for the big boy rb to go back in it and i cant wait to see more of ur vids they make me wanna go out and get a car to work on.
Make sure you use seam sealer on all of those welded edges/surfaces. Like people mention here don’t use POR15. That’s a rust inhibitor but not actually a sealer. You should use regular spray sealer and then use an undercoating of your choice
A British company called Bilt Hamber makes a variety of surface treatments for bare metal and coated metal. Very recommended.
Etch primer the welds then seam seal on top of the primer. Paint on that then you can add undercoat. Just had to do this a bit on my Silvia.
POR-15 works well as primer too
@@lilbago2246 KBS is better than por 15 and it can be sprayed on
Also the original inner quarter panel can be seen that is bent under the spot weld area, thats why there is a height difference. In case you havent noticed yet! Great to see your progress man!!
im always so happy to see you released a video. also i like how you do almost everything in your garage. good luck with the build
So awesome to see the progress coming along man!! I’d look at a good quality seam sealer and undercoat. Maybe try Granville Gpro brush on, probably easier led on your back.
Have you considered getting a rotisserie stand so you can spin the chassis onto its side and get at the underneath much easier??
For the welds under the car, I would use a good 2K primer or a strong anti-rust paint like POR15, RustSeal, or Rustbullet. Then, apply seam sealer over any welds that you don't think are waterproof. After that, you can clean up the rest of the underside and undercoat the whole thing. Don't use cheap undercoating either, use 3M or something like that.
Got in a crash at a roundabout with my '64 volvo 544 yesterday. Was going to put it away this weekend and now it's gonna be off the road for a while. Not nearly what you went through but can relate to the feeling. Never even gotten a ticket or anything before.
Hay fam! I know its old news. And i know i should probs be watching more of ur vids to help out.
But its nice to see u have this thing and see all the work done to it. Especially after the accident... Big ups to dudes like u man!!!
Love waking up to ur vids! Awesome surprise ❤ Keep it up!
As mentioned by many, the POR-15 is a great product. Ive also had good results with SikaFlex.
I can't believe how good it looks now after the crash I didn't think it was savable keep the good work man love the content
Just wire wheel off what you can. Seam seal all the welds and then I'd use raptor liner on the whole bottom. Very diy friendly and not too expensive. I'd consider the same for the inside. You can even do white on the inside.
Always good to see your progress bro!!! You made me spend more time under my car, to the point that I'm almost working on it everyday, at least a small task at a time and I'm really glad for it! You are a legend and an inspiration!!! Keep it up!!!
Por-15 is designed to paint over rust I don't think I would use that. My best friend is from Sweden and he used to engine stands beefed them up and made a home made rotisserie. It worked perfect id do that clean it and use maybe a truck bed liner coating.
love what you do , dont forget to rest !
i did alot of panel replacement in the bottom of my 280z and used chassis saver same as por 15 and its been great 5 years later and no rust, just make sure you lay it down in thin coats 3-5 . thick layers dry weird and being under gravity causes pockets
She’s coming back together man! It looks awesome! Upon buying my integra and now subsequently ripping the gas tank out of my wrx for a fuel cell, undercoat gets used like wd40 at my house. The stuff I used was called Chassis Saver, and I will swear by it until the day I die. the stuff dries hard as a rock, I have looked for rock chips in the places I have done previously and have found almost none. It has held up great on the integra, no noticeable flaking or chips from crap picked up by the tires.
Awesome work once again buddy!
A) You should consider buying or creating a car rotisserie , with your welding skills.. It will help you rotate the car and work with ease..
B) You can remove the old residue with dry ice or grinding but the are many kits that have products for these kind of jobs
C) Search for : Broken silvia channel in youtube, and for "Poor mans GTR " series of episodes.. he has done what you are about to do on a budget in his garage providing many usefull information!
Lets gooooo!
i would recommend using truck bed liner to under coat the car there is some really good stuff called raptor liner that would work great i used it to under coat my gs300 when i raised the floor pan (stance car} and it heled up really well it was good for sound deadening as well
Epoxy primer and sprayable seam sealer on entire underside is the best you can do!
Wire wheel the welds, epoxy, wash or etch primer then seamsealer and underliner
I wish there were more youtube channels like this
Sheesh im hella excited to see the full out come
Been watching your channel for a min bro keep up good work my man 🔥
Definitely give this car a acid dip if possible and then get it re coated should help the longevity of it! Great work keep it going mike
Thats a lot of progress for one vid! nice man keep up
Awesome videos can’t wait to see it finally finished. I would recommend using por15 to coat the welds they have kits that treat the metal and then seal it I use it on my own cars and it is very durable.
Clean Off the Wells -> Put Epoxy 2K Primer on -> Then seam seal the welds (Teroson is a really good seam sealer)-> then some thick brush on emaille Paint -> Last step ist good undersealant. Like Teroson SB3000 or similar.
Use seam sealer for all ur welds or holes works very well
LineX or any kind of solid bedliner material would be great for that. Coat everything in primer and then do the bedliner material
I prefer Bedliner over under coating. It’s some tough stuff, and you can get the kind you roll/ brush on which is nice when you’re laying under it trying to paint it.
@19:33 you can see the lower section of the panel on the right is bent, causing it to sit lower then the exact same panel just to the left of it. this means if you correct the bent lower section of the panel on the right, it will straighten out and cause the panel on the right to not only sit higher but also allow the two panels to line up along the length of the car, as i see currently that one panel sits slightly further forward then the other, about 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch. correcting the bent lower section will solve alignment issues for you their. so long answer short, the panel on the right needs to be (raised) up to align with the panel on the left
@19:35 you can see that lower section is bent in couple small spots for out 8-12 inches along that horizontal body line just above the floor section of the wheel tub. if you correct that bent wavey section on the right side panel it will better alighn with the un bent (but modified) panel.
Love having 2 video's in a week! Exciting stuff happening! 👊🏻
In europe i would use Fertan rust converter, NOVOL protect 360 epoxy primer with hardner and as a sealer on top of it Novol gravit 600
For the undercoat, defininately Por-15 or truck bedliner
IMO I prefer bedliner, that’s what I did on my Silvia , the result are better and very durable
But I would seam seal all the welds before shooting any undercoating
Some primer on the bare metal/welds then some raptor liner would be good for the underbody
Two Prizza videos in one week!!!!!
Your the best mike i always enjoy every video its insane how talented you are♥️
dude raptor! by far the best stuff ive used and you can get ir in a clear and mix in white paint so its fresh and white.
So much fun to watch Thank You
All I can say is W.
She’s so close 🤞 keep the grind up bro
I think progress well😊👍
Lookin' forward rebone your 240SX!😊
But..It is same RB's weak point(headder stud is easier to break) all around the world😅←I possesed ECR33 & HCR32, had broken both😂
Someday, I'm lookin' forward to meet at Nikko, Mobara, and more😊
It is better leave about 2 studs and the others change the stiffer bolts💪👍
So, it can reduce exhost leakage👍
Edits are sick
Welds are sick
Content is sick
#MikeTheLegend🤘... Respect bro👌
god bless your brilliant Franzy :)
Get it cleaned borrow a sandblaster and be sure so clean everything get a good primer and then something elastic like the oem undercoat