Hey guys, really enjoying your channel and love that it is from the neophyte perspective. I am thrilled that you have been so taken with and are sharing a bit of Newfoundland heritage. At one point in time if you wanted to go anywhere here you needed a boat to get there. As a Newfoundlander I have a couple of suggestions. First, this is purely constructive, I can hear you trying to get it right but the modern pronunciation of Newfoundland is tricky, the stress is on the final syllable: land, and the “found” section is spoken as: fun(d), with the d hinted at. To make easy, just make it sound like: understand, with the first two syllables run together and the stress on: land. Newfoundland understand. Second, you really should take the long drive, and then the ferry, and come check out the island. There is a wooden boat building museum in Winterton that you would get a kick out of. Keep the awesome content coming!
Yes I know my pronunciation is not up to snuff. Several Newfies have corrected me, but I’m just a bumpkin from Florida. Really hard to internalize that correct pronunciation. At least I’m not saying newFOUNDland, right? And yes I know all about the wooden boat museum of Newfoundland and Labrador. In fact, the Newfoundland trap skiff has an interesting connection with the work of Dr. David Alan Taylor whose research was greatly influential on the founding of the museum. I believe I discuss this in episode 1, but not sure
You know, in my experience, most sawyers don’t want to fuss with sawing live oak. Didn’t see it advertised very often. It’s notoriously hard to work and will dull tools quick. There’s a guy in Georgia who specializes in it ( David Cross), made famous by Sampson Boat Co. I’d love to go check out his operation one day
This channel rocks! Have y’all picked up your planking yet? I’m thinking of building a lapstrake sailing dinghy this winter, but i’m having a hell of a time finding lumber here in the south. What type of lumber do y’all plan to use? Any recommendations on a supplier for marine lumber?
Oh boy. We’ve been in limbo for going on 4 months. Started with one sawyer down here in Florida but then after 1 month and half with no results ended up working with a sawyer in Wisconsin. Still waiting. Shoot us an email at neophyteboatwrights@gmail.com and I’ll help you out and give more details.
Isn’t a more usual solution to the lapstrake issue to simply plane a gain into the lapstrake bevel so that the strakes all lay flat from inboard to outboard edge of the transom. Seems simpler than notching the transom. I’ve done this with the lapstrake skiffs I’ve built. Perhaps I’m not understanding what you’re doing?
Right. So we will still be cutting gains into the hood ends of the planks. The gains are what enable two adjacent planks to terminate with no overlap. But the gains are gradual. So theoretically the overlap is diminishing gradually and only vanishes completely at the very end of the planks. So if you look at the inboard profile of two adjacent planks before you get to the "bitter end" then there will still be some degree of offset due to the overlap. The degree of overlap depends on how far forward you are looking. At the beginning of the gain, you have maximum overlap, at the end you have zero overlap. Now i certainly do not profess to be an expert, but i think the need to cut shelves into the bevel of the transom has to do with the width of the bevel. Since our transom is raked and very shapely, there are points within the "tuck" where the bevel is 4" wide. If you look 4" forward of the bitter end of the planks the degree of overlap isnt negligible, and so has to be accommodated with a shelf/notch if you want the plank to sit flush against the bevel. This may not be the case in less shapely transoms and/or unraked transoms. If the bevel of the transom is only like 1" wide then the degree of overlap between two adjacent planks is probably negligible enough to avoid the need to notch. Between the bedding compound and fastening the planks sit flush enough.
There's a big difference between counter-bored, and counter-sunk. If you are plugging, you will be counterboring. If you are filling with a compound, you might well be countersinking. Counterbores have parallel sides, whereas countersunk holes are conical. Terminology is important.
Yep. We've already been firmly disciplined on the distinction between counterboring and countersinking in a previous episode. We do understand the distinction, however, I have countersinking bits that when driven deep enough bore a cylindrical hole above a conical base. Thus, by countersinking deep enough a pluggable hole is left above the head of the screw. Is this counterboring or countersinking? Seems reasonable to call it countersinking.
This is where my head exploded!
Oh no!
Hey guys, really enjoying your channel and love that it is from the neophyte perspective.
I am thrilled that you have been so taken with and are sharing a bit of Newfoundland heritage. At one point in time if you wanted to go anywhere here you needed a boat to get there.
As a Newfoundlander I have a couple of suggestions.
First, this is purely constructive, I can hear you trying to get it right but the modern pronunciation of Newfoundland is tricky, the stress is on the final syllable: land, and the “found” section is spoken as: fun(d), with the d hinted at. To make easy, just make it sound like: understand, with the first two syllables run together and the stress on: land. Newfoundland understand.
Second, you really should take the long drive, and then the ferry, and come check out the island. There is a wooden boat building museum in Winterton that you would get a kick out of.
Keep the awesome content coming!
Yes I know my pronunciation is not up to snuff. Several Newfies have corrected me, but I’m just a bumpkin from Florida. Really hard to internalize that correct pronunciation. At least I’m not saying newFOUNDland, right?
And yes I know all about the wooden boat museum of Newfoundland and Labrador. In fact, the Newfoundland trap skiff has an interesting connection with the work of Dr. David Alan Taylor whose research was greatly influential on the founding of the museum. I believe I discuss this in episode 1, but not sure
Been waiting for a new episode. Finally it's here
I plan to build a boat one day. Great work guys!
Great video, thanx
You guys were in Florida. Why aren't you utilizing local live oak?
You know, in my experience, most sawyers don’t want to fuss with sawing live oak. Didn’t see it advertised very often. It’s notoriously hard to work and will dull tools quick. There’s a guy in Georgia who specializes in it ( David Cross), made famous by Sampson Boat Co. I’d love to go check out his operation one day
@@neophyteboatwrights Yeah. I saw that guy and his rube Goldberg sawmill in their videos.
This channel rocks! Have y’all picked up your planking yet? I’m thinking of building a lapstrake sailing dinghy this winter, but i’m having a hell of a time finding lumber here in the south. What type of lumber do y’all plan to use? Any recommendations on a supplier for marine lumber?
Oh boy. We’ve been in limbo for going on 4 months. Started with one sawyer down here in Florida but then after 1 month and half with no results ended up working with a sawyer in Wisconsin. Still waiting. Shoot us an email at neophyteboatwrights@gmail.com and I’ll help you out and give more details.
Geez!!! What a complicate ending! I'm looking forward to se how it will end up. 🤔
Isn’t a more usual solution to the lapstrake issue to simply plane a gain into the lapstrake bevel so that the strakes all lay flat from inboard to outboard edge of the transom. Seems simpler than notching the transom. I’ve done this with the lapstrake skiffs I’ve built. Perhaps I’m not understanding what you’re doing?
Right. So we will still be cutting gains into the hood ends of the planks. The gains are what enable two adjacent planks to terminate with no overlap. But the gains are gradual. So theoretically the overlap is diminishing gradually and only vanishes completely at the very end of the planks. So if you look at the inboard profile of two adjacent planks before you get to the "bitter end" then there will still be some degree of offset due to the overlap. The degree of overlap depends on how far forward you are looking. At the beginning of the gain, you have maximum overlap, at the end you have zero overlap. Now i certainly do not profess to be an expert, but i think the need to cut shelves into the bevel of the transom has to do with the width of the bevel. Since our transom is raked and very shapely, there are points within the "tuck" where the bevel is 4" wide. If you look 4" forward of the bitter end of the planks the degree of overlap isnt negligible, and so has to be accommodated with a shelf/notch if you want the plank to sit flush against the bevel. This may not be the case in less shapely transoms and/or unraked transoms. If the bevel of the transom is only like 1" wide then the degree of overlap between two adjacent planks is probably negligible enough to avoid the need to notch. Between the bedding compound and fastening the planks sit flush enough.
There's a big difference between counter-bored, and counter-sunk. If you are plugging, you will be counterboring. If you are filling with a compound, you might well be countersinking. Counterbores have parallel sides, whereas countersunk holes are conical. Terminology is important.
Yep. We've already been firmly disciplined on the distinction between counterboring and countersinking in a previous episode. We do understand the distinction, however, I have countersinking bits that when driven deep enough bore a cylindrical hole above a conical base. Thus, by countersinking deep enough a pluggable hole is left above the head of the screw. Is this counterboring or countersinking? Seems reasonable to call it countersinking.