Great video. It still blows me away that my father learned how to build boats by reading books on the subject. Love your vids, makes me want to start building.
This entire lofting series has been invaluable to me! I don't have the space to build my boat so I am building a 1:8 scale model. Getting the material for the lofting "floor" this week. This episode (#10) was the absolute missing link for me on how the lofting process was actually going to become a boat! I can't thank you enough. Please continue to post such great content. Blessings.
Oh man, this channels great, and perfect timing! Just cleaning out my workshop to start building a Chamberlain, Alpha Dory from Gardner's the Dory Book.
If you made the moulds out of, like 18mm thick plywood, and press it onto the nails. You would have the full shape at once, and be more secure about the final line-measurements. I think that when you are working on the boat, the multipart moulds would be sooner to react (displace) to all the stresses put upon them. But beside being a knowitall , i want to say i enjoy your videos and the detailed way of explaining.
Theres a couple reasons we opted against that approach. One is it would require lofting the other side of each station line. The fairing in of station lines is pretty tedious and the likelihood that youll introduce some deviation from the symmetry is high. Always better in my opinion to work from a single reference rather than multiple. The second reason is that we will have to do considerable shaping of the moulds during the planking process: beveling as well as a kind of faceting for the planks. I much prefer working the soft pine with edge tools than plywood. Finally, in addition to the bracing weve already installed, each mould will be braced from above (tied into the rafters of the shop) so really dont anticipate much room for distortion from planking stresses.
@@neophyteboatwrights Interesting i did not expect the moulds to get more shaping. And yes all the drawing is tedious, but important to get good results. Ill await the next episode to see what you both are up to. Thank you for time and answers.
Really appreciate your feedback! Yes, since we are planking lapstrake there's work needs doing on the moulds to help the overlapping planks sit flat. If we were planking carvel, we'd leave the moulds alone (save for beveling) and instead hollow out the planks to sit flat.
You haven't dealt with the station bevels on your mould templates. We used aluminum sheets for the template and marked which side of the sheet was to be placed on station. Then the other side was alway pointed towards the open bevel. The result was the non-station side was under sized and beneath the mould surface.If you did that the other way, then the non-station side would be proud of the mould surface. In your case, while the template is on the lofting boards, it is obvious which side is on station; the side contacting the loft board. But once you lift the template off the loft board, it is not as obvious which side is on station; especially for someone new coming onto the job.
mould bevels were determined empirically, stringing battens across the moulds once they were set-up on the keel. nothing wrong doing it theoretically, but ultimately you’ve got to listen to the boat. it’ll tell you what the bevel needs to be to get the plank to lay fair and flat across the mould. I believe I discuss that later in the planking series
Clear description of useful technique. Thanks guys 👍👍
Im never going to build a boat but you cant stop me from watching the how to videos
Your channel is criminally underrated.... exactly the whole process....
Thank you for the tutorials. I am overjoyed that I found this channel before I start my build.
Really glad your enjoying it and find it useful
Great video. It still blows me away that my father learned how to build boats by reading books on the subject. Love your vids, makes me want to start building.
You guys are doing GREAT !!!! ........... I am new subscriber.............Keep up the great work !!!
This entire lofting series has been invaluable to me! I don't have the space to build my boat so I am building a 1:8 scale model. Getting the material for the lofting "floor" this week. This episode (#10) was the absolute missing link for me on how the lofting process was actually going to become a boat! I can't thank you enough. Please continue to post such great content. Blessings.
Thanks for the great feedback! Really appreciate it. Good luck with your scale model. It’s a great way to cut your teeth....and save money on wood!
Oh man, this channels great, and perfect timing! Just cleaning out my workshop to start building a Chamberlain, Alpha Dory from Gardner's the Dory Book.
Very good!
Reminds me of when Leo was working off his big lofting floor and cutting out futtocks.
Another great episode you guys! I love the content.
Thanks Phil! Really appreciate your feedback!
Great , Great , Great.......
If you made the moulds out of, like 18mm thick plywood, and press it onto the nails. You would have the full shape at once, and be more secure about the final line-measurements.
I think that when you are working on the boat, the multipart moulds would be sooner to react (displace) to all the stresses put upon them.
But beside being a knowitall , i want to say i enjoy your videos and the detailed way of explaining.
Theres a couple reasons we opted against that approach. One is it would require lofting the other side of each station line. The fairing in of station lines is pretty tedious and the likelihood that youll introduce some deviation from the symmetry is high. Always better in my opinion to work from a single reference rather than multiple. The second reason is that we will have to do considerable shaping of the moulds during the planking process: beveling as well as a kind of faceting for the planks. I much prefer working the soft pine with edge tools than plywood. Finally, in addition to the bracing weve already installed, each mould will be braced from above (tied into the rafters of the shop) so really dont anticipate much room for distortion from planking stresses.
@@neophyteboatwrights
Interesting i did not expect the moulds to get more shaping.
And yes all the drawing is tedious, but important to get good results.
Ill await the next episode to see what you both are up to.
Thank you for time and answers.
Really appreciate your feedback! Yes, since we are planking lapstrake there's work needs doing on the moulds to help the overlapping planks sit flat. If we were planking carvel, we'd leave the moulds alone (save for beveling) and instead hollow out the planks to sit flat.
You haven't dealt with the station bevels on your mould templates. We used aluminum sheets for the template and marked which side of the sheet was to be placed on station. Then the other side was alway pointed towards the open bevel. The result was the non-station side was under sized and beneath the mould surface.If you did that the other way, then the non-station side would be proud of the mould surface. In your case, while the template is on the lofting boards, it is obvious which side is on station; the side contacting the loft board. But once you lift the template off the loft board, it is not as obvious which side is on station; especially for someone new coming onto the job.
mould bevels were determined empirically, stringing battens across the moulds once they were set-up on the keel. nothing wrong doing it theoretically, but ultimately you’ve got to listen to the boat. it’ll tell you what the bevel needs to be to get the plank to lay fair and flat across the mould. I believe I discuss that later in the planking series
First commenttt :)))