I wallpapered a room in my house and drew the ribed full size and used dressmakers measuring tapes pinned to ribbs on upturned keel and ribs. Worked great
About the time I had gotten to the diminishing board step on my build, I also had a project coming up in my computer programming course. I chose to write a program that did the diminishing board job via computer. It worked!
Not meaning to be picky but I believe you said that lapstrake construction is like building a giant barrel. The staves of a barrel do not overlap, they are beveled a fit snug to each other. A barrel like some boats are similar to Carvel construction. Great content regardless!
Thanks! Yes barrels staves don’t overlap, my point instead was that the beveling at the joints dictates the shape of the cask, much like lapstrake planking. Also, the seal of a watertight cask depends on a tight fitting bevels, same as in lapstrake planking. That’s actually not the case with carvel planking. There the seal depends upon caulking the seams. Also with carvel, the frames that the planks are attached to dictate the shape not the bevels at the joints. planks may have to hollowed or crowned to fit snugly to the frames, but edge bevels aren’t dictating the trajectory of the next plank as with lapstrake.
I have watched several of your videos and must say they are top notch! The videography and graphic illustrations are the best I have seen anywhere. Williamsburg may be a good fit for you but it would be a shame to lose you from the boating community. I hope you are able to continue your excellent work. I put you on a par with Lou Sauzedde. Great job.
What an exceedingly nice compliment. Thanks you so much for the wonderful feedback. The project has slowed, to be sure, thanks primarily to raising an infant and having to get a new shop set up, but the videos will keep coming (eventually 😅)
Just found your channel and immediately subscribed. Last year I completed a different Walt Simmons design, the 16 foot Duck Trap Wherry, built lapstrake but with glued plywood. I thoroughly enjoyed the project, from lofting to fine finish work, and I’m sure you will likewise learn a tremendous amount and look back with unabashed pride. I have not watched all your videos yet, so my question may have earlier been answered, but I am curious why you are building upright? Thanks for taking the time to put together a great series. If I was a first time builder, you would have given me the confidence to plunge ahead. Fine work.
Hey Bill! Very cool that you’ve built the duck trap whereby. Check out episode 1 where we go visit Walter up at his workshop in Maine. The journey with the NTS has so far been profound. The perseverance it takes to make it through a build is intense. We are building the NTS upright because it better facilitated the riveting of planks. Upside down build is especially well suited to glued lapstrake.
@@neophyteboatwrights I saw that after I asked the question! I did see that episode where you talked with Walter. Last summer during our first trip away in awhile, my wife and I visited Maine for a week, and we popped in to see him. As you know, he’s a really great guy. It was the highlight of the trip. You will wind up with a mighty fine craft. I thought about using solid wood, but finding any kind of reasonable stock down here in South Carolina would be a tall ask. Just to get a feel for the more traditional construction, though, I did try my hand at riveting, specifically to reinforce the gunnel and inwale. You can get pretty good at it pretty quickly.
Excellent use of graphics. Thank you for taking the time to share this. I notice on some other channels they don't have the plank landings equi-spaced around the frames, but use broad strakes (wider planks close to the garboard) and narrower planks at the turn of the bilge. Was it a conscious decision for you to space the planks equally? Regards from the UK.
Hey Ian! Well I won’t speak for everyone’s method, however, our plank spacing was divided according to equal arc length segments. These divisions do not exactly correspond to plank widths. Since arc length is sensitive to regions of higher curvature, wherever the curvature is greater the plank width is narrower, which amounts to the same result that you described. You might consider it from this perspective: broad strakes are “broad” precisely because the curvature of the hull tends to be less at the bilge. The turn of the bilge often constitutes a region of higher curvature and therefore necessitates narrower plank widths. Nevertheless, we DID artificially push the hood ends of the garboard up as high as we thought physically possible, this results in the subsequent planks running “straighter”, beyond that the process was fluid and we continued to make corrections to our lining off as we proceeded through the planking process.
I should not have been impressed...but for some reason enjoyed it. By the way, in many lapstrake boats- especially planing power boats with more normal sheers, simply dividing equally around the molds to determine laps, produces too steep a planking run up forward which is a defect the British call "sny" (rhymes with eye). So you wonder why the British seem to have this defect more than anybody else! Some Chris Craft Sea Skiffs had it, but Lymans and Hubert Johnsons and others did not. They were done right. In order to avoid it, let's say you have 7 strakes per side. You divide up the stem as normally done. Then you run a batten aft from the top of the 3rd plank up, making sure the angle of run is proper looking. Run it back to the stern as seems proper and divide the 4 planks above that and the 3 planks below that so that all looks right. You may have to bias the width of the first strake above that mid-batten a trifle in order to keep the width transition smooth, but that's easy with a second batten if necessary.
I wonder...'howard i chapelle' his book. Most interesting, your approach. You use a number of terms without supplying a glossary, you may hav done this elsewhere. Bearding line might leave some folks in the doldrums. Your style of looking right at the camera is really good I think
This channel should get more appreciation
I wallpapered a room in my house and drew the ribed full size and used dressmakers measuring tapes pinned to ribbs on upturned keel and ribs. Worked great
A great video as usual from a boatwright master teacher . Many thanks Mad & Murph !
BRILLIANT THANKS.
Very good explaination - Cheers from Berlin Germany
Thanks!
Welcome back fellas! I can see why this episode took a long time. It’s making my brain hurt!
That’s how you know it’s working!
Thanks you know it👍
About the time I had gotten to the diminishing board step on my build, I also had a project coming up in my computer programming course. I chose to write a program that did the diminishing board job via computer. It worked!
Fantastic video
Not meaning to be picky but I believe you said that lapstrake construction is like building a giant barrel. The staves of a barrel do not overlap, they are beveled a fit snug to each other. A barrel like some boats are similar to Carvel construction. Great content regardless!
Thanks! Yes barrels staves don’t overlap, my point instead was that the beveling at the joints dictates the shape of the cask, much like lapstrake planking. Also, the seal of a watertight cask depends on a tight fitting bevels, same as in lapstrake planking. That’s actually not the case with carvel planking. There the seal depends upon caulking the seams. Also with carvel, the frames that the planks are attached to dictate the shape not the bevels at the joints. planks may have to hollowed or crowned to fit snugly to the frames, but edge bevels aren’t dictating the trajectory of the next plank as with lapstrake.
I have watched several of your videos and must say they are top notch! The videography and graphic illustrations are the best I have seen anywhere. Williamsburg may be a good fit for you but it would be a shame to lose you from the boating community. I hope you are able to continue your excellent work. I put you on a par with Lou Sauzedde. Great job.
What an exceedingly nice compliment. Thanks you so much for the wonderful feedback. The project has slowed, to be sure, thanks primarily to raising an infant and having to get a new shop set up, but the videos will keep coming (eventually 😅)
I guess the fairness and ease of the lining off is an outcome of careful lofting, and mould making.
Just found your channel and immediately subscribed. Last year I completed a different Walt Simmons design, the 16 foot Duck Trap Wherry, built lapstrake but with glued plywood. I thoroughly enjoyed the project, from lofting to fine finish work, and I’m sure you will likewise learn a tremendous amount and look back with unabashed pride. I have not watched all your videos yet, so my question may have earlier been answered, but I am curious why you are building upright? Thanks for taking the time to put together a great series. If I was a first time builder, you would have given me the confidence to plunge ahead. Fine work.
Hey Bill! Very cool that you’ve built the duck trap whereby. Check out episode 1 where we go visit Walter up at his workshop in Maine. The journey with the NTS has so far been profound. The perseverance it takes to make it through a build is intense. We are building the NTS upright because it better facilitated the riveting of planks. Upside down build is especially well suited to glued lapstrake.
@@neophyteboatwrights I saw that after I asked the question!
I did see that episode where you talked with Walter. Last summer during our first trip away in awhile, my wife and I visited Maine for a week, and we popped in to see him. As you know, he’s a really great guy. It was the highlight of the trip.
You will wind up with a mighty fine craft. I thought about using solid wood, but finding any kind of reasonable stock down here in South Carolina would be a tall ask. Just to get a feel for the more traditional construction, though, I did try my hand at riveting, specifically to reinforce the gunnel and inwale. You can get pretty good at it pretty quickly.
Wow, just wow. Amazing content
Thanks so much for the feedback!
Excellent use of graphics. Thank you for taking the time to share this. I notice on some other channels they don't have the plank landings equi-spaced around the frames, but use broad strakes (wider planks close to the garboard) and narrower planks at the turn of the bilge. Was it a conscious decision for you to space the planks equally? Regards from the UK.
Hey Ian! Well I won’t speak for everyone’s method, however, our plank spacing was divided according to equal arc length segments. These divisions do not exactly correspond to plank widths. Since arc length is sensitive to regions of higher curvature, wherever the curvature is greater the plank width is narrower, which amounts to the same result that you described. You might consider it from this perspective: broad strakes are “broad” precisely because the curvature of the hull tends to be less at the bilge. The turn of the bilge often constitutes a region of higher curvature and therefore necessitates narrower plank widths. Nevertheless, we DID artificially push the hood ends of the garboard up as high as we thought physically possible, this results in the subsequent planks running “straighter”, beyond that the process was fluid and we continued to make corrections to our lining off as we proceeded through the planking process.
I should not have been impressed...but for some reason enjoyed it. By the way, in many lapstrake boats- especially planing power boats with more normal sheers, simply dividing equally around the molds to determine laps, produces too steep a planking run up forward which is a defect the British call "sny" (rhymes with eye). So you wonder why the British seem to have this defect more than anybody else! Some Chris Craft Sea Skiffs had it, but Lymans and Hubert Johnsons and others did not. They were done right. In order to avoid it, let's say you have 7 strakes per side. You divide up the stem as normally done. Then you run a batten aft from the top of the 3rd plank up, making sure the angle of run is proper looking. Run it back to the stern as seems proper and divide the 4 planks above that and the 3 planks below that so that all looks right. You may have to bias the width of the first strake above that mid-batten a trifle in order to keep the width transition smooth, but that's easy with a second batten if necessary.
I wonder...'howard i chapelle' his book. Most interesting, your approach. You use a number of terms without supplying a glossary, you may hav done this elsewhere. Bearding line might leave some folks in the doldrums. Your style of looking right at the camera is really good I think
Thank you.! I do try to define any term I introduce, but a lot of that is in earlier episodes
Brawo
What!! Like a phoenix arising from the ashes........
Glad to be back from the brink of oblivion!
Moor wood, less screen.
Ok