6L80 Valve Body Build and Vacuum test
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- Опубліковано 9 вер 2021
- Time for this 6L80 to leave the bench. For the newcomers to the channel welcome to our channel. This 6L80 has been in the works for a bit now. We have covered all of the rebuilding procedure as well as the tear down procedure for this transmission. Now that it's finally time were going to finish this valvebody and get this transmission rocking.
One of the biggest things we will cover in this video is the sonnax zip kit installation. As well as installing new clutch select valves. The final torque as well as installing the new AC Delco techm.
Thank you for watching our channel we'll be back with another soon. - Авто та транспорт
This is my new favorite channel, David has the best sense of humor and actually goes in depth on what everything does. Currently building my name up by doing 60e builds, came here for info on other transmissions. Appreciate it buddy keep busting butt
Once again,
This is for my escalade. You are right david, this trans is installed and finally got it running. Ran into a issue where after the install, truck had a no crank no start and no check engine light icon on dash issue. Finally after getting bad news, after news and alittle more bad news, my diagnostic guy said its the ecm. Picked up a used ecm from junk yard, installed it and programmed everything and truck is running great so far. For sure feel a huge difference. Some excellent high class work you did on this turkey.
Lol that's great to hear buddy. It definitely was a turkey but as always was fun to play with for sure. Thank you for your support Carlos
I enjoy your humor. Rebuilding mine now and your videos I am finding very helpful. Thanks
Absolutely glad to help
Another great video. Back in the old Th350, Th400, C6, 727 etc days I guess the pumps were so large that cross leaks and leaking valves were not a big issue. No one cared if it took 3- 4 hp to drive a large pump. So interesting the knowledge needed to overhaul a newer model transmission.
Thank you for that we are really enjoying making them and sharing as much knowledge as we can.
Another good video 👍
Thank you
Awesome
Excellent videos, thanks for sharing info. Do you have a preferred method of cleaning the valve body prior to vacuum testing? I've been using mineral spirits from the solvent machine but was considering trying an ultrasonic cleaner
I need to see this exact same video but in the 4L 60 E transmission and valve body vacuum readings. What’s acceptable and what’s not
Hey there. Really enjoyed this. How can I send mine in for a rebuild?
Hi, thank you for posting & sharing the vids 🤘.
In the last couple of seconds you said you always get a ac delco tech, what do you mean by that? Thanks ahead cheers
I prefer to use a new ac Delco techm in all of my 6l80 transmissions
So are those two steel TransGo clutch select valves the only valves you add, in addition to the standard 6L80 Sonnax Zip Kit parts (and do you happen to have those TransGo part numbers)?
Hi, Just become your subscriber. couple of questions.. 1. if line pressure is holidng well for every gear as per the spec, can i assume valve body is good.. in otherwords i dont know how to isolate valve body (hydralic issue) vs mechanical issue when there is a slip on specific gear.. i assume if line presure is good valve body is good and i can condemn mechanical issue.. is my direction right..
2. i also dont know how to isolate Torque coverter issue vs hydralic or mechanicl issue..
Much appreciate if you can help.
What else might cause me to have no forward gears but reverse works fine. I drove from California to texas no issues. Got to the apartment unloaded truck and drove 8 miles to Walmart. When returning from Walmart I was exiting the freeway and the transmission disengaged. I had no forward just reverse. Transmission temp was 190 degrees. Pulled the pan and no metal but fuss on the magnet. Fluid is dark but doesn’t smell burnt. I opened the filter and found a couple of slivers in it but very small. The balls look fine. But the valve forth from the left stuck a few times when I pushed it against its spring. Do you know what might be causing this and how do I fix it. Thank you for your time.
Truck is a 2015 Silverado Z71 5.3L eng. I think the transmission is a 6L80
Hey buddy great videos. Got a question for you. I’m doing a 4bt Cummins swap into an 08 Escalade. I got it running and was getting 2,3 pressure switch codes, changed all 4 discs, new seal/filter between the techm and valve body and also split the valve body and made sure everything was clean in there. I pulled all the valves and cleaned the bores. Re assembled with a new spacer plate with all the balls back in where they go. Torqued the bolts to 71inlb cuz that’s the spec I found, new filter and fluid. Now no reverse. All gears but park are forward even neutral. Any suggestions? Thanks for your time.
Check the manual valve and make sure it's hooked to the rooster comb
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 I will check that tonight. Thanks for the reply!
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 you hit the nail right on the head. I didn’t get the dowel in the slot on the manual valve. Thanks for your help!
No prob at all.
i deal a lot with the 6L80, mostly the plastic check balls, no forward gears is a check ball that got stuck in the plate. i put metal or brown balls in them , the white ones wear out to fast
Agreed 100%
Or the cracked piston in the main drum. I see that too
Definitely a common one
Hey there, came across your channel by chance looking for advice from an expert and I'm so engrossed with your video's .
I have a 2007 6L80E that won't drive even when shifter is in the drive position. No warning on dash cluster just won't go into Drive even when selected. Park, Reverse and Neutral are ok and this problem just occured suddenly, no previous problems with the trans and was serviced 30,000 kms ago.
Would you have any suspicion as to what the issue could be ?
Vehicle has done 200,000 kms and has regular servicing
No drive can be a check ball issue in the valve body or a broken piston in the 1234 drum or cracked weld in the 1234 drum. As well as some other things but as a sudden stop these are the areas I would look first.
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 When I bought the car 3 years ago the was always had a slight whine in 1st gear, not loud but just there, never seemed a problem and never got worse
What would cause my 6l80e to only have reverse gear and no forward gears? I check the check balls in the valve body and non of them look shrink down.
I've seen this happen with a broken 1-2-3-4 piston.
I have the same issue. I drove from California to texas. No issues. I went to Walmart then when I was on the way back from Walmart I started to exit the highway and my transmission disengaged and I pulled off . I lost all fwd gears. But still have reverse. Transmission was at 190 degrees. Fluid is dark but does not smell burnt. No metal in pan. A little in filter when I broke it apart. Filter had a couple of slivers that were small. When I moved the valves one stuck a couple times. The forth from the left. What could it be causing it. The balls look fine.
I have a 09 denali with no forward gear. removed valve body and inspected check balls. no problems found. what can i do to verify if the problem is in valve body or the trans?
@taylorolson6939 air up the 1234 clutch through the case passageway youll hear a massive leak in the 1234 piston.
Weird seeing our part being on a youtube channel. 🙈
Oh yeah which part lol
Whats your price on r&r and a rebuild on a 6l80e
Base price starts at 3500 for complete job.
OK, so what's up? At 4:30 it shows the vacuum at around 24. Then you change the plug to one with an o-ring. Upon retest at 6:00, it shows a reading of around 21 - indicating a bigger leak than the original plug. You say "That's absolutely perfect". Explain.
This was a total dumb moment, lol. The first reading was without calibration of the vacuum stand. There's a break in the video where I realized I had not calibrated. With my gauge and new end plugs 21-22 inches of vacuum is ideal. Sorry for the confusion
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 That must have been quite the recalibration. Your statement says you feel around 3 in drop is acceptable. 5 you say is too much. This means that if the second test is "ideal" at 21-22, the original test would have to have been around 17.
We're actually doing a video covering that this week. I will try to be as clear about it as I can. We will be covering vacuum testing and calibration more in depth. Sorry for the confusion one twist of that calibration knob and it reads all over the board lol