Thank you for watching! Comments welcome! Product links in the description above☝ Check out my Plastic Repair Playlist! ua-cam.com/play/PLuqUXYROAVVgl7A2CLRh9N13gT4SoBGnY.html
Awesome videos. I have a question; to my untrained eye this looked like a repair that could have perhaps also been done by one of those paintless dent repair magicians (still requiring paint) saving the cutting, welding and grinding. When do you choose for one vs the other?
Great question! In this particular case, the main factor would probably be the cost. When paint isn't involved in a repair, PDR is almost always the best repair and a bonus perk of keeping the car original. I almost always go for the conventional auto body repair as it is my trade but when paint isn't involved, we sometimes sublet to PDR.
Hello, it's very nice to watch. You did a great job 💪, but I have a question, where did you buy the 5:18 small clamps shown in the video? Can you provide a link to where I can buy such clamps? Regards
I was very impressed with both the quality of your work and the presentation. As a novice, I would like to ask you a few questions, if I may. First, I am looking for that vise grip with the wide clamp. Do you know what they are called or have a link? And a link for the mini clamps. You said that the panel bond should not be closer than two inches from a spot weld. Is that because of the heat from the weld? Also, I saw that you only put the panel bond on one side. The 3M panel bond is meant for both surfaces to have the material bonded but you were using another brand. Is that what you always use? I like the idea of not having to put the adhesive on both sides. Looking forward to more of your videos.
One further question. When you MiG weld that thin sheet metal, what voltage and wire speed do you use? I know that every welder is different but I am just looking for a starting point. Much thanks.
I believe the vise grips you are asking about are called duck bills. Panel bond or any structural adhesive is applied to both the new panel and the car side. We product I used is SEM Structural adhesive which is an equivalent to 3Ms panel bond
@@AUTOBODYTECH Much thanks. I ended up going to Leroy Merlin (European Home Depot) and buying four of the bottom bin, no name vise grips. Then cut some 4mm bar stock I had into 6cm long strips and welded them on and made my own. Crude, but they work. Really enjoyed the presentation. One further question: I bought a VW Golf Mk3, stripped it back to the shell and am going to build a widebody track day racecar. Designed and fabbed my own rotisserie and am stripping the undercoating now. The plan is to get all four quarter panels from a donor car and and attach them using a filler strip so they sit out 5-7cm , then cutting away the original behind it so I can run 17” wheels and tires instead of the original 14”. And to improve shedding brake heat. The filler piece would be shaped like a vertical flattened S, come down 5cm, angle out what’s needed and angle down 5cm, if that makes sense. The 5cm top would be glued, plug welded or a combination to the car and the bottom the same to the new outer panel. Do you think that these structural adhesives could hold it alone? I guess I always think about the people who JB Weld some part together and it lasts forever. I am intrigued by panel adhesives and am trying to figure out if they would hold. Just asking your opinion. No guarantee implied.
@tomsmithdeal8286 I'm not quite understanding, but if the original structure of the car is still there and you are adding a "widebody" then I would be fine with just panel adhesive. Also, it seems the car would only be driven on a track. Now if you are replacing the quarter panels I would be using panel adhesive and spot welds or an n5/n4 style punch rivet
Thank you for watching! Comments welcome!
Product links in the description above☝
Check out my Plastic Repair Playlist!
ua-cam.com/play/PLuqUXYROAVVgl7A2CLRh9N13gT4SoBGnY.html
This guy deserves a lot more success and subscribers than he has at the moment. I Like his work, and its nicely filmed and edited.
Thanks!
by the book excellent quarter panel replacement. someone trained you the correct way
Yup! My mentors were awesome!
Awesome work, looks clean and very professional.
Thank you very much!
This channel as taught me a lot, keep going strong
Thanks!
A really nice job, beautifully filmed. Thanks for taking so much trouble.
Appreciate the compliment!
Nice work !
Thanks!
Very nice work and clean welds.👍👍
Thanks!
Great job! Loved your video! Your autobodytech skills are amazing. Interested in collaborating with us?
Thank you! Please send me a private message on Instagram, and we can discuss more details 🔥
Another great job
Wish you all the success 😊
Thank you! You too!
Far different from when I replaced quarter plans on old Mustangs back in the 80’s. 5⭐️ & 👍👍
Awesome videos. I have a question; to my untrained eye this looked like a repair that could have perhaps also been done by one of those paintless dent repair magicians (still requiring paint) saving the cutting, welding and grinding. When do you choose for one vs the other?
Great question! In this particular case, the main factor would probably be the cost. When paint isn't involved in a repair, PDR is almost always the best repair and a bonus perk of keeping the car original. I almost always go for the conventional auto body repair as it is my trade but when paint isn't involved, we sometimes sublet to PDR.
Hello, it's very nice to watch. You did a great job 💪, but I have a question, where did you buy the 5:18 small clamps shown in the video? Can you provide a link to where I can buy such clamps? Regards
These are ones from Amazon amzn.to/4clR8yi
If you have a snap on tool dealer, they sell a 4 pack on their blue point brand.
@@AUTOBODYTECH Dziękuję bardzo za szybką odpowiedź, już zamówiłem, teraz moja praca będzie łatwiejsza i szybsza.🙂
How do you do your cuts with the air saw ? Doesn’t the tip hit the brace under the panels ? Your work and speed is amazing
Carefully! it takes some practice to be able to feel what the blade is touching behind.
Beautiful clean job brother. How long does a quarter chsnge usually take you?
Thank you! They normally take about 2 days start to finish
Keep up the good work bro Ur an insane panel beater.
A true craftsman your expierance made it look so easy thanks for a super video
Thanks!
Hey amazing job, can you show us your welding settings when doing the butt joints?
Yes, here you go!
ua-cam.com/video/cm-93kOha2o/v-deo.html
I was very impressed with both the quality of your work and the presentation. As a novice, I would like to ask you a few questions, if I may. First, I am looking for that vise grip with the wide clamp. Do you know what they are called or have a link? And a link for the mini clamps. You said that the panel bond should not be closer than two inches from a spot weld. Is that because of the heat from the weld? Also, I saw that you only put the panel bond on one side. The 3M panel bond is meant for both surfaces to have the material bonded but you were using another brand. Is that what you always use? I like the idea of not having to put the adhesive on both sides. Looking forward to more of your videos.
One further question. When you MiG weld that thin sheet metal, what voltage and wire speed do you use? I know that every welder is different but I am just looking for a starting point. Much thanks.
I believe the vise grips you are asking about are called duck bills.
Panel bond or any structural adhesive is applied to both the new panel and the car side. We product I used is SEM Structural adhesive which is an equivalent to 3Ms panel bond
Check this video here. I prefer 6MM mild steel MIG wire
ua-cam.com/video/cm-93kOha2o/v-deo.html
@@AUTOBODYTECH Much thanks. I ended up going to Leroy Merlin (European Home Depot) and buying four of the bottom bin, no name vise grips. Then cut some 4mm bar stock I had into 6cm long strips and welded them on and made my own. Crude, but they work.
Really enjoyed the presentation. One further question: I bought a VW Golf Mk3, stripped it back to the shell and am going to build a widebody track day racecar. Designed and fabbed my own rotisserie and am stripping the undercoating now. The plan is to get all four quarter panels from a donor car and and attach them using a filler strip so they sit out 5-7cm , then cutting away the original behind it so I can run 17” wheels and tires instead of the original 14”. And to improve shedding brake heat. The filler piece would be shaped like a vertical flattened S, come down 5cm, angle out what’s needed and angle down 5cm, if that makes sense. The 5cm top would be glued, plug welded or a combination to the car and the bottom the same to the new outer panel.
Do you think that these structural adhesives could hold it alone? I guess I always think about the people who JB Weld some part together and it lasts forever. I am intrigued by panel adhesives and am trying to figure out if they would hold. Just asking your opinion. No guarantee implied.
@tomsmithdeal8286 I'm not quite understanding, but if the original structure of the car is still there and you are adding a "widebody" then I would be fine with just panel adhesive. Also, it seems the car would only be driven on a track.
Now if you are replacing the quarter panels I would be using panel adhesive and spot welds or an n5/n4 style punch rivet
Impeccable procedure! 👏👏👏😍😍😍
Where do we get the bond epoxy and what number are they ?😊
You'd have to find a local distributor. The one I used is #39747
@@AUTOBODYTECHAmazon. 3M panel Bonding Adhesive.
Excellent work!!!
Appreciate it! 👍
👏👏👏
Nice work!
What spot welder is that?
Pro spot ph101
But what keeps the panel cuts from coming part or cracking?
As long as it's a quality weld. It shouldn't come apart or crack
@@AUTOBODYTECH ohh ok cool
Это не железо , а жесть какая-то, фольга и только...
It's a junk Frod and it's built Frod Tuff
It's next place is the Car Crusher !
Not fixed with glue 😂