I've been using fiberglass for my body repairs. I used the front fenders as templates to make replacement rear wheel arches for an F150 and I just used strips of wood to lay out rocker panels for a Jeep. I'll never have to worry about either rusting out again.
I replaced cab corners with panel bond on an 80's square body chevy truck years ago, and 4 years after the repair, no rust where the repairs were. I had ground down all the rust and painted POR 15 rust paint inside and on any bare metal. A suggestion for anyone who attempts a repair like this. Clean all inside with wax and grease and then use a heat gun to heat the metal up a bit before applying POR 15 rust paint.
Well, depending on how far the Canadian dollar thing goes, but the cost of 3M panel bond, the dual cartridge gun (2:1) plus the Matrix paint, not counting labor, you car went from $1,300 to $2,000. Machine shop labor, UV crack check, 8 valves, resurface, check head for straight, clean, reface valves & seats, hand lap with “Clover Fine” and dykem blue, plus gasket set, 1 1/2 g antifreeze, box of band aides, oil & filter change, blue washer solvent unless cinnamon scented, air filter, car wash. $3,283.12! Congrats! Thank you kindly for sharing!
I think it looks good, at least from here. I hate body work too but bought a rusted truck, as a project, that needs a lot of body work. I probably wouldn't hate it as much if I was 100% happy with my body work. It's hard to be a perfectionist and cheap at the same time! I like the idea of gluing the new panel in place. I'm welding outside so I use flux core and it's hard to keep from burning through. You get more better at filling burn throughs that way. I think it's neat too having matching his and her cars!
Looking good. Definitely looking forward to the year or 2 update. I did something similar on the wife’s Escape but welded and the bubbles started coming back in a year.
Yep, you went 3 levels above and beyond what that car deserves, so don’t apologize for your quality. The most interesting thing any of my shop teachers ever did was prank one of the students by throwing down an already-broken chisel when he did the throw test on our forged and heat-treated chisels.
Re the structurality of the panel bond repair - I've got a Lotus Elise sitting about 25' from me, and its structure is entirely glued together. Of course IIRC they used aircraft spec glue which probably costs more than you paid for that Accent...
Well done! I've debated using panel adhesive vs. welding before for just the reasons you've mentioned but the price is prohibitive. I assume the tip is a one shot deal, so, for each piece, I'd need a new tip. Correct ? I haven't used epoxy primer for the same reason. It's price. And I'd have to get a gun up into some tight spots. I think I am just going to spray the underside with the oily goo sheep flavored stuff. For a non-body guy: you have a lot of great body work tools !
We've had a 2009 Hyundai Accent since it was brand new, and it's now at 510,000 km. The engine is indestructible, but the body is rusting terribly. Both rear doors are rusting from the inside-I've never seen anything like it.
Im a bodyman with 14 years experience in rust repair and restorations and for me it's an OK job; the rust will be back at some point, within 5 years typically. Welding in a panel is the only long term solution. Your thought about the welding damage on the back of the panel, burning off the coating is a actual problem, however using a quality cavity wax on the backside of the panel is the solution, you coat the panel completely using the various wands and it'll be good or better than new. Panel bond is excellent, but it's meant to be used in conjunction with spot welding because panel bond cannot stand the shear strength; most formulas do have a component that will inhibit rust from forming, but you'd have to read up on the individual products.
I had to go back and watch the video again - I didn't remember what came out of my mouth. I have a playlist in the channel about the 7. It's 18 years old now - wow! I will be doing a new build series on it in the future, as I make significant changes.
I've been using fiberglass for my body repairs. I used the front fenders as templates to make replacement rear wheel arches for an F150 and I just used strips of wood to lay out rocker panels for a Jeep. I'll never have to worry about either rusting out again.
I replaced cab corners with panel bond on an 80's square body chevy truck years ago, and 4 years after the repair, no rust where the repairs were. I had ground down all the rust and painted POR 15 rust paint inside and on any bare metal. A suggestion for anyone who attempts a repair like this. Clean all inside with wax and grease and then use a heat gun to heat the metal up a bit before applying POR 15 rust paint.
Well, depending on how far the Canadian dollar thing goes, but the cost of 3M panel bond, the dual cartridge gun (2:1) plus the Matrix paint, not counting labor, you car went from $1,300 to $2,000. Machine shop labor, UV crack check, 8 valves, resurface, check head for straight, clean, reface valves & seats, hand lap with “Clover Fine” and dykem blue, plus gasket set, 1 1/2 g antifreeze, box of band aides, oil & filter change, blue washer solvent unless cinnamon scented, air filter, car wash. $3,283.12! Congrats!
Thank you kindly for sharing!
I always double it and add thirty.
It only needs to be as good as the job demands.
I think it looks good, at least from here. I hate body work too but bought a rusted truck, as a project, that needs a lot of body work. I probably wouldn't hate it as much if I was 100% happy with my body work. It's hard to be a perfectionist and cheap at the same time! I like the idea of gluing the new panel in place. I'm welding outside so I use flux core and it's hard to keep from burning through. You get more better at filling burn throughs that way. I think it's neat too having matching his and her cars!
You made it less bad, and did a great job doing it. I’m definitely going to duplicate this on future projects. Cheers, Paul
Looking good. Definitely looking forward to the year or 2 update. I did something similar on the wife’s Escape but welded and the bubbles started coming back in a year.
Fun project! Thanks for the video!
Yep, you went 3 levels above and beyond what that car deserves, so don’t apologize for your quality.
The most interesting thing any of my shop teachers ever did was prank one of the students by throwing down an already-broken chisel when he did the throw test on our forged and heat-treated chisels.
Re the structurality of the panel bond repair - I've got a Lotus Elise sitting about 25' from me, and its structure is entirely glued together. Of course IIRC they used aircraft spec glue which probably costs more than you paid for that Accent...
Never tried the glue, great video.
Awesome repair! 👍👍😎👍👍
Well done!
I've debated using panel adhesive vs. welding before for just the reasons you've mentioned but the price is prohibitive.
I assume the tip is a one shot deal, so, for each piece, I'd need a new tip. Correct ?
I haven't used epoxy primer for the same reason. It's price. And I'd have to get a gun up into some tight spots.
I think I am just going to spray the underside with the oily goo sheep flavored stuff.
For a non-body guy: you have a lot of great body work tools !
p.s. I think that repair job is going to last longer than the car.
You did everything the way I would like to.
We've had a 2009 Hyundai Accent since it was brand new, and it's now at 510,000 km. The engine is indestructible, but the body is rusting terribly. Both rear doors are rusting from the inside-I've never seen anything like it.
Good vid ! ....
epoxy does not have to sanded...can be painted up to a week...nice job..
What gun and tip do you use on the Epoxy Primer?
Just a normal gun and tip is fine; nothing special. I tend to use a small "touch up gun" on projects this size.
Im a bodyman with 14 years experience in rust repair and restorations and for me it's an OK job; the rust will be back at some point, within 5 years typically. Welding in a panel is the only long term solution. Your thought about the welding damage on the back of the panel, burning off the coating is a actual problem, however using a quality cavity wax on the backside of the panel is the solution, you coat the panel completely using the various wands and it'll be good or better than new. Panel bond is excellent, but it's meant to be used in conjunction with spot welding because panel bond cannot stand the shear strength; most formulas do have a component that will inhibit rust from forming, but you'd have to read up on the individual products.
Are we just going to ignore that mention of a Lotus Super 7 replica?
I had to go back and watch the video again - I didn't remember what came out of my mouth. I have a playlist in the channel about the 7. It's 18 years old now - wow! I will be doing a new build series on it in the future, as I make significant changes.
...ok yeah it was a good watch but totally not doing that on mine. I'll wait til I'm on like 10" wheels and put box flares over the rusty quarters
Box flares look great on everything.