Lito Coloma yes sir there is a reason I PERSONALLY like to back off just a little. Your zero will (most likely) not ALWAYS be zero. Here is what I mean by that and I just found out for myself in the last few years. There are a number of things that can cause your zero to change both up and down as well as left and right. 1) if you change your ammo in ANY way it can effect your zero. Brand of ammo, bullet weight, powder charge, velocity etc etc.. can change your zero. 2) altitude could possibly effect your zero. 3) change in barometric pressure could change your zero. 4) I have had more than one extreme accurate shooters tell me that cloudy and sunny days can have an effect on your zero. All this to say that if I need to go a few MOA or Mils below zero to “REZERO” my scope, I don’t have to take the cap completely off to accomplish it. Hope this rambling made some bit of sense.
Klinton O'Donnell We sent the G2 to George Banke at Mirage ULR for testing on a 338 Lapua. He tested it for about 6 weeks and compared it to the Crusader and Terminator out to 2000 yds and said it was spot on.
If you all haven't seen a documentary called... it's worse than you think...by revelations of Jesus Christ ministries... I suggest you do... All praise and glory to the most high Jesus Christ
Now I understand why you want to back off the zero stop but I have no idea why you set your turret zero to this arbitrary 1/4 turn away from your reference zero. Shouldn't your zero stop be set negative of your zero so when you hit zero stop you dial back to your turret zero to be on your zero? You lost your evaluation zero they way you did that.
I guess I’m not following you. I actually wanted a bit more than 1 click of negative dial when the turret hit the bottom but I forgot to raise the black ring about 1/32 of an inch when i backed off the 1/8 to 1/4 turn. That would have given me aprox 1-2 mills of negative dial. I really don’t understand why you say that I lost my elevation zero. After dialing up and then back down to a hard stop, I was one click or 1/10th mil to the negative side of zero. I just dial 1 click up and I am at my sight in zero. Hope this makes sense.
@@glennjames1756 This is just how I'd do it. Get your zero at the range and then zero out both turrets. Now find your mechanical zero so you can reset your turrets if they slip or you have to take them off for some reason. So on elevation dial up counting your mils until you hit the mechanical limit, write that number down. Now dial down back to zero counting your mils and if the 2 numbers match you have your mechanical zero for elevation. Now do the same for windage, dial all the way in left counting your mils, write it down, then dial out. So now dial down the elevation down the amount you want your zero stop backed off, say 5 mils. Now pull your turret and set your zero stop to a hard stop. Put your turret back on at 5 mills. Dial back to 0 and then count up to mechanical limit and if that is the same number as in your log book you are good to go. If not reset your zero by dialing down your mechanical zero amount and reset your turret. Now when you dial down to your zero stop you should be negative 5 mils and you dial back up to your zero. I'll watch the video again but I sure though you set your turret to zero where you set your zero stop.
Hey, thanks for the video. Val shows how to do the elevation turret but not the windage. I just zeroed my scope today. I love it.
very good video!
Thanks Glenn.
Apreaite the video friend
Does this technique work for ANY scope made by ANY scope company?
I am surprised the 0 does not line up with 0 hash mark. I just came back from the range. My cap won’t go down to the 0 hash mark either.
Rick Wells it’s not suppose to. It accounts for moa of your pic rail and any moa you have on your mount. Val has a video too and he explains it.
On the zero stop, is there a reason why you back off 1/4 turn?
Lito Coloma yes sir there is a reason I PERSONALLY like to back off just a little. Your zero will (most likely) not ALWAYS be zero. Here is what I mean by that and I just found out for myself in the last few years. There are a number of things that can cause your zero to change both up and down as well as left and right. 1) if you change your ammo in ANY way it can effect your zero. Brand of ammo, bullet weight, powder charge, velocity etc etc.. can change your zero. 2) altitude could possibly effect your zero. 3) change in barometric pressure could change your zero. 4) I have had more than one extreme accurate shooters tell me that cloudy and sunny days can have an effect on your zero. All this to say that if I need to go a few MOA or Mils below zero to “REZERO” my scope, I don’t have to take the cap completely off to accomplish it. Hope this rambling made some bit of sense.
Glenn James yes makes alot of sense, thank you
So how is the tracking on this compared to the ior recon?
Klinton O'Donnell We sent the G2 to George Banke at Mirage ULR for testing on a 338 Lapua. He tested it for about 6 weeks and compared it to the Crusader and Terminator out to 2000 yds and said it was spot on.
Glenn James good to hear. Thanks for the reply. This will most likely be my next scope purchase as soon as my rifle is finished being built.
Can I zero my rifle at 1millions yards also 🤣
If you all haven't seen a documentary called... it's worse than you think...by revelations of Jesus Christ ministries... I suggest you do... All praise and glory to the most high Jesus Christ
Now I understand why you want to back off the zero stop but I have no idea why you set your turret zero to this arbitrary 1/4 turn away from your reference zero. Shouldn't your zero stop be set negative of your zero so when you hit zero stop you dial back to your turret zero to be on your zero? You lost your evaluation zero they way you did that.
I guess I’m not following you. I actually wanted a bit more than 1 click of negative dial when the turret hit the bottom but I forgot to raise the black ring about 1/32 of an inch when i backed off the 1/8 to 1/4 turn. That would have given me aprox 1-2 mills of negative dial. I really don’t understand why you say that I lost my elevation zero. After dialing up and then back down to a hard stop, I was one click or 1/10th mil to the negative side of zero. I just dial 1 click up and I am at my sight in zero. Hope this makes sense.
@@glennjames1756 This is just how I'd do it. Get your zero at the range and then zero out both turrets. Now find your mechanical zero so you can reset your turrets if they slip or you have to take them off for some reason. So on elevation dial up counting your mils until you hit the mechanical limit, write that number down. Now dial down back to zero counting your mils and if the 2 numbers match you have your mechanical zero for elevation. Now do the same for windage, dial all the way in left counting your mils, write it down, then dial out.
So now dial down the elevation down the amount you want your zero stop backed off, say 5 mils. Now pull your turret and set your zero stop to a hard stop. Put your turret back on at 5 mills. Dial back to 0 and then count up to mechanical limit and if that is the same number as in your log book you are good to go. If not reset your zero by dialing down your mechanical zero amount and reset your turret.
Now when you dial down to your zero stop you should be negative 5 mils and you dial back up to your zero.
I'll watch the video again but I sure though you set your turret to zero where you set your zero stop.