I am 85 and have been hunting deer since 1954. some advice I can give is to never make your last shot out of a hot barrel The next shot at a 10 pointer will be from a cold barrel . also the last shot is from a dirty bore.
Love the technique! My father used to use a golf ball at 50 yards with every new rifle/scope combo over the years. Put the gun on the bags, (on the patio table in the backyard!!), remove the bolt, find the ball in the bore, raise up and find the ball in the scope. Go to the range and 100% of the time we were on the paper at 100 yds. Fine tune with a few shots just like you demonstrated. I guess the white of the golf ball is also easy to "center" in the bore because rarely were we off by much when doing the final tuning. Enjoy the channel!! Thanks for the info!!
Thank you! I used your technique today and it took me 3 shots, not 2, only because I focused on the center of the target the second shot instead of the bullet hole to make my adjustment. BUT... I hit bullseye after bullseye at 100 yards after only 3 shots with a brand new rifle and a brand new scope. Once again THANK YOU!!
been using this technique for 40 years, its a great way to get a quick on paper shot. figured this out on my own. glad you are doing this, helps people who can't get to a gun store or have a bore sight.
Yep I was doing this in 1976 with ole 30-30 savage bolt action when I was 16 years old. Still have that rifle and its dead nuts accurate. My dad gave it to me the first time he took me deer hunting with him. I can hit golf balls with it at 75 yards with same old 40 year old tasco scope.
The adjustments on the scope don't move the reticle the same direction as indicated on the knob; they "move" the bullet impact in that direction. If the bullet hits high and right, normally, you would apply the proper amount of left and low adjustments to bring the bullet impact down to the bullseye. In this video, though, Chad is moving the reticle to match the bullet impact. Regardless of whether the impact is being moved to the bullseye or the reticle is being moved to the impact, the adjustment on the scope is the same: the bullet impacted high and right, so you need to "move" the bullet impact low and left.
Cj R I've always gotten confused with reading site adjustment instructions, ( be it iron sites or a scope), when they say "to move the bullet impact", because your not moving the impact point, your moving the sites to where the impact is hitting. Unless your shooting something that has fixed sites.
I saw this over a year ago and just wanted to confirm how awesome and easy this is to do with your weapon. Zeroed my ar at 50 yards today with this method, no issue.
I did that with my bolt action 30/06. I did it at home in my appartment and directed it at a point on a building as far away as possible in order to get the line of sight as parallel to the bore as possible. I repeated it a couple of times in different light, then calculated what the bullet drop on 150 m would be, adjusted accordingly. On the range I fired two shots. Both on target - no further adjustment. Nobody on the range believed me when I told that I had done.
Excellent video!! Our Sportsman's Club just finished two days of rifle "Sight-In Days" just prior to opening day of rifle season. We get every type of shooter from the very advanced shooter to the person who is a complete neophyte with absolutely no idea how to do anything. We end up doing a lot of bore sighting for those who show up with a newly mounted scope and a rifle that they have never fired. We always try to help them learn as best we can through the whole process. One of the most confusing things for them to grasp is scope adjustments and how they work. Like many of the previous comments, I always try to get them to understand that if they want to move the point where the bullet impacts, they should turn the turrets in the direction indicated on the dial.That is, if they need to move the bullet impact point UP for instance, they should turn the turret dial in the direction indicated by the direction of the little arrow and the associated "u" or "up". But if they happen to be looking through the scope when making this adjustment, the reticle itself will move in the opposite direction, or down. This makes sense if you then visualize what you would do with the rifle to place the newly positioned reticle on the center of the target again, which would be to point the rifle up, moving the impact point up. Trying to understand this principle can be confusing, but a person does not really need to worry about it. When you have fired the first shot, and are in the process of moving the cross hairs to the actual bullet impact point. simply twist the dials in whatever direction they need to be twisted in order to make the cross hairs move to the bullet impact point. KISS Principle! Again, thanks for this outstanding video!
I zeroed the scope on a rifle this week that I was teaching a class with by simply firing a few rounds at a steel target and adjusting the windage and elevation as needed to bring my POA to my POI. It worked perfectly, and my students (some of which were foreigners and had never fired a gun in their life) were hitting 2" steel targets @ 50 yards with regularity.
Good advice. I learned this from my uncle with my bolt actions. Good on you. REMEMBER guys, most people we want to be with us, don't have any experience with firearms. We all need to bring the new generation in.
Learned this trick from another channel but this was a good verification of great advice. I boresighted my Mosin M44 iron sights out to 100 yards on a 10" steel target and it helped immensely to figure out where that crazy Russian was shooting. I now have it adjusted. Now I just need to learn how to shoot better. This works for scopes and irons and better than my laser bore sighter.
Just a tip young fella..when dialing in your scope on both windage and elevation I always turn 2-3 clicks more than I need to, then turn the turrets back in 2- 3 clicks this will aid on putting back the spring tension,,every bit helps,,Here in OZ we all use that method ..PS good show
One day I was out shooting with my dads buddy (Ex sniper in the marines) he showed me how to zero in his 6.5 and it took me a bit but it was fun. He hoped on the gun and put 3 shots all in the same hole (100 yards). couldn't even tell he had fired 2 shots after the first. It is crazy not only how far guns have come but also how skilled a man can be with one. Most humble guy I've ever met. I was like "wow thats crazy", not even a smile or laugh out of him, just acted like he does it all the time.
I had someone do it to me also he fired one shot bullzeye and next 2 shots he purposely missed the target completely and said the other 2 bullets went through same hole....lol
@@greekmaster1001 That's a good tip; miss completely and no one can prove otherwise. Like tossing a 3/4 inch fender washer in the air and putting a hole in the center.
Chad you do a great job most of the time communicating your point of view. I bore sight the same as you and have been for almost 50 years. Explaining the 35 Rem shot adjustment after the first shot will most likely confuse many new shooters. I give the same range lesson often but use the actual direction of bullet to paper contact where as you used the optic visual change to bore. When a newbe tries to translate what we know. They generally get very confused when making fine tune adjustments on paper with followup shots. Just my observation from years of training others. Thanks and keep up the good work!
Hey Chad . I know y’all fellas are good men and knowledgeable . I used to get confused when someone would explain a scope to me until my father made it simple for me one day . He said quit making it difficult and move the impact to where u r aiming . Life got a whole lot easier after that day . I know that’s not what’s happening but it makes it super easy to sight in a scope . Once someone explains it an a language people can understand they can be confused later after the scope is sighted . 25 yds , 50 yds then 100 .
Great video!!! It was SOOOOO HELPFUL to shave the reticle in the frame so we could see exactly what Chad was doing was pure genius and helped so much. Thank you for your hard work.
Your video shows the cheapest and fastest way to zero-in a scope. I've told people that if my first shot is on paper, the next shot will be zeroed in. Some have said no way, that it takes at least 3 to 4 or more shots to zero in! Until they see me do the 2 shot sighting. Then they fall over, face-palm themselves and say "Why didn't I think of that"......................lol Great vid, thanks for sharing and enlightening the shooters.
Outstanding tutorial!!!!!! I'm about to sight-in 4-5 rifles and this instruction is as good as it gets. You're slow and methodical technique prompts good memory retention as a viewer. I support you on Patreon and find your information enjoyable and very well presented. Thanks so much!
Good video. The easy way to remember what the directions on the turrets mean (Left/Up) is that it always refers to where you want the POI to go/change. If the POI is high and right, you move the turrets low and left as indicated on the turrets. Clockwise on the turrets is down and left. So, counter clockwise is up and right. Simple.
I find it easier to understand and remember to say move the POI to the center with your reticle on center. For me it eliminates that opposite movement confusion. Could be my brain though.
@@DG-xj7pmya so if it's high and to the right move the reticle high and to the right. I don't get why he saying the opposite but then moving the reticle to the poi
@@wes326 Actually, the way I think about it is if my shot goes low, I move the turret "up" as indicated on the turret. Or if the shot goes left, I move the turret left as indicated on the turret. Yes, I know I am moving the reticle to the POI and not the other way around, but it is much easier to think about it in those terms. You move the turret in the direction you want the apparent POI to go even though the POI stays the same and you are actually moving the reticle to match the POI. It is just easier to remember and use/think about it that way. Aim small, miss small! (smile)
Quite possibly the best video on this subject that I've seen. Was able to sight in an eotech and LPVO on two different AR'S just now in under 30 min with this video (and 10 total rounds)!
Great success with the Marlin 336 in .35 Remington in only two shots at 50 yards. I do prefer hollow scope rings so the iron sights are still useful if need be. Taking the rifle partially apart in-lieu of removing the bolt is beyond the ability of some folks. In order to get the first (proverbial) horseshoe close to the stake I use a quality laser bore sighter and zero in the reticle onto the laser boresighter at 50 yards and then begin the test shots with a cold barrel. When hunting the barrel will usually be unfired and therefore cold. It is important to keep the rifle in the same position throughout the process on the bench resting on the woodstock or forearm and not the barrel. Shoot at the range to sight in just like you will shoot out in the field. Once you are on the paper where you should be then move out to 100 yards and possibly out to 200 yards. The big thing is caliber, grains of bullet, and range of target. Don't expect the same results on paper with different ammo manufacturers, different grains of bullet weight, and different distances in yards. Also be aware of bullet trajectory specific to your load and length of barrel and don't overshoot the capability of your combo.
Thank you so much I have tried this before and didn't understand it but this helped so much. I went and got a new scope today and had it sighted in within 15 minutes and 3 shots. Thank you
Great video showing the benefits of bore-sighting, through the bore when possible or with the use of a laser bore sight. Saves a lot of time, ammo and frustration. Well done!
I came up with a one shot zero technique on my own when I was 12. Had a lever action 22mag and aquired a cheap 4 power scope for it. I simply clamped it in our shop vice with cardboard around it pointing it out the door into the pasture. Looked through the scope out about 50 yards and then took out a cardboard box with a spot on it into the field of the scope. Moved things around till it was lined up. Fired a shot. Went and marked it big enough to see well. Made sure the scope was on the original spot. Clamped the gun good and simply adjusted the scope screws to the impact spot. DONE. Tried it in the vice at 100 yds was dead on. Granted the small caliber allowed for solid mounting. Probably not a good idea with bigger guns. But would work with a sled if you were careful not to move it during scope adjustment.
Very good knowledge passdown. One word of caution for prepping for long range is make dead sure your crosshairs AND your target are dead level when sighting. Makes more difference at greater distances. Its like a paint job. All in the prep.
The most important thing is to level and mount the scope the correct way. I did this with my savage axis 243. First shot at one hundred yards was almost dead center. I couldn't believe it.
I learned something from your video and will be using bore sighting to correct my .308 rifle which I am having problems with. I want to thank you for showing us new shooters how to adjust the rifle scope and rifle.
I can testify to looking through the bore then scope being a great way to zero a rifle. Gets me EXTREMELY close, on paper, then just a couple shots makes it golden.
Nice video,i was frustrated my first time out with my AR-15.I bought a laser bore sight.I zero it out the night before when its dark so i can see the dot.Now i can hit target at 100 yards all day.
Great video! You guys always are always so informative. I have used a adaptation of this method to confirm receiver/barrel/sight alignment on my parts sets builds. I mount the gun solidly to the work bench, and sight thru the bore to a grid taped to the wall.
Shoulder the rifle with the barrel against full length mirror. You will get double crosshairs. Align the double image to single image. You'll be damn close without firing a bullet.
After 4 or 5 shots, chamber is hot. This will be your reason for shots to hit high. On yer 5 or 6 shot and more, leave bolt open in between shots until yer ready to shoot within 5 seconds. This will keep brass and powder from heating up before ya shoot. Try it, you'll like it.
Very good advice, you also might try cleaning the barrel after 5 to 10 shots that may make a big difference also. when you take the gun hunting you're shooting with a clean bore
Wow dude, I've been watching this channel for a long time but left shortly after the passing of Barry Elliott. I'm now back and you're looking better than ever. I almost didn't even recognize you! So whatever you're doing with training/nutrition you're on point.
Well done Chad! Simple, straightforward and to the point. The proof is in the shots down range. As far laser bore sighting, I've heard of individuals ruining a firearm with them. They forget to remove before they fired a live round. It's careless, but stuff happens. Thanks.
Awesome video on how to zero your rifle to your scope. You guys at IV888 do some helpful videos on firearms and their really enjoyable to watch too. IV888 for life.
Definitely something I needed to watch. I'm one brain cell into this thing so it's ridiculously hard to comprehend the zero process until someone shows me how to do it. I don't have many guns that would apply to this one but I'll try the bore laser when I can.
I was always taught to use a three shot sighting to get it right... works every time. But I like what you have shown and will try it next time. Good info.
Great video. I'm new to guns, so I've been training with iron sight just to get the basics down. I really wanna get I to hunting, so this info is very valuable me as I start getting into using optics.
Another good method a Leupold rep passed along was that you can take your scope and stand it Obj. down on a mirror and when you look through it you'll see a clear reticle and a fuzzy reticle. Adjust the crosshair until both reticles are aligned. It centers your reticle within the scope and as long as your bases and scope are mounted true you should be on paper if not pretty close when you begin. Pairing that with using the Reticle to Hole adjusting method Chad showed should get you zeroed.
You saved me countless rounds using this visual bore sight method. My Mossberg Patriot was a nightmare to site in with the stock BS scope it came with. Swap in a MDT LSS chassis and ATN 4K Pro it made this rifle accurate and fun thanks to your method vs ATN's one shot zero. News flash I'm no expert, but after watching your method, best believe I was on paper after the first shot and it was pretty easy to dial in at 100 yards. I'd like to use this method at 300 yards and dial it back a little. PS I'm using shitty non match grade ammo
Thanks Chad that was a great tip. I have had some trouble getting my AR15 sighted right where I want it. I'm going to the range tomorrow and put this method to work.
try searching "jerking the trigger target". its a 50/200 yard zero you can do at 10 yards. i used in my hallway in my house and took it to the range and was spot on. no wasted ammo.
One the best and simplest concepts of zeroing a rifle for a noobie like myself. Appreciated the examples with different rifles showing very good results. Thanks!!
I've always just shot once at 50 and moved the appropriate number of clicks, knowing that a 1/4moa click will only move 1/8" at 50 yards. Shoot at 100 and make any fine tune adjustments as needed. Math vs relying on keeping the gun perfectly still while adjusting
My father was a navy seal I was a marine .my entire life he taught me the same exact thing. There are a lot of people that go through boxes of ammo think their gun is junk when that's not the truth. They need to get more familiar with their weapon. In my opinion I don't think the laser sights give it As exact as the way you're doing it here. When you're doing it through a bore site and you know what you're doing or what you're doing it is so much easier sometimes the lens for that red laser is tilted 1/2 of it hitting off the board of the rifle so you're not getting the full effect doing it the way you're doing it right now is the best best way to save ammo. As well love the channel to keep up the good work this is a good one for dear season to repost
You don't even know how much you have helped me. I am the person That you described at the beginning of your video. Funny thing I was trying to sight in my new Henry 6.5 creedmoor today. Shamefully I tell you I went through 60 rounds . And ended up where your 1st shot was. THANK Q 🇺🇸
It would be great if you guys made a video "all you need to know about leverguns" breaking down the rifle and components and explaining different upgrades and what not.
James Sholts i just posted a question here then saw this comment. i have an Enfield, Marlin 336 in 35 rem. do you know if I can change the barrel? it is shot out. It's an old gun I acquired and would love to bring it back if possible. Thank you.
i have been doing this for over 30 years, it the only way for me to sight in..it quick and easy and a whole lot less ammo.. I have lots of people come to me before season ..to sight in their gun,s..for them... first video i have seen on here.. i personal think it the best way!!! great vid..
My girlfriend asked why my friend wanted a rifle with a scope who knew nothing about guns (but was interested in the sport) I told her that you will never learn unless you get your hands in yourself. The first time you get the designated optic zeroed it feels amazing. We all have to learn the basics at some point which was my point.
I have a laser bore that goes in the muzzle already. It can work with everything from .22 to 10ga. Easy and fast to get it right in there. I actually just aim at the wall in my house and adjust before going to the range. Then at the range, I am never more then an inch off to start with.
I do the same. Mine is one you actually chamber, as it is the shape of a .223 case. Point it down the longest straight hallway in the house and I never have an issue hitting what I am aiming at, though I rarely shoot over 100 yards
Those lasers are even more accurate, allowing for more fine tuning, but they are caliber dedicated while the bore one can be used for many different calibers. I guess it depends on what firearms you own. If you have a few calibers, then those bullet laser ones are great. If you have 50 different calibers like me, that gets a bit expensive, ha.
You would be surprised how many hunters and shooters simply cannot, will not believe this can be done. It has been in the bench resters tool bag of tricks forever! Thanks for putting it in a vid! KnifeMaker
I picked this technique up from Precision Shooting magazine maybe 25 yrs ago. Unfortunately this video is incorrect. You want to find something as far away as as you can to vastly reduce the minor misalignment's while centering the bore to what your zeroing the scope to. For that reason I usually do it after dark and find a street light or any light 1-2 miles away or more. Center the bore to that pinpoint of light then do the same with the crosshairs. It's easy and ultra accurate. I've done it enough I'm confident of being under an inch from the point of aim with any decent shooting rifle at 100 yrds.
Wow!! Thanks for making this video for us. Very well done, Excellent speech presentation, And you are very detailed as well as efficient. Excellent job!!!
This is witch craft haha I've been watching videos all week on zeroing techniques and this makes so much sense. I just bought a Bergara b14 HMR Wilderness for an upcoming hunt in 2 months, this video is much appreciated for a newer shooter like myself. Thanks man
I've done it that way before, but I have a similar way if you have a good scope like a leupold, or at least a scope that tracks good..., I put the the gun in a vice. I use a 4x8 sheet of plywood at 100 yds, i fire at a dot on it. Then reset the rifle aiming at the dot then align the reticle to where the bullet hit... 1 shot and done, you can confirm but for 150 yds and in its not necessary. I love a mil dot reticle.
I've always done this, I have a laser bore sight... but my son stripped the adjustment screws and I don't trust it lol. but looking through the bore has never let me down.
interesting......is there anyway to fix stripped screws on a red dot, say the sightmark dual shot pro for example? It was a 150$ scope included with an AR I bought a while back and ive never been able to use it due to the horizontal adjustment set screw not doing a damn thing, no matter how far I turn it up or down it wont do anything to reticle. Ive been using a Romeo 5 as a replacement scope but it would just be nice to know if this is fixable or even feasible to try and jack with it to hopefully fix it?
I’m sure you know they make laser sighting cartridges that lock right into the chamber when you close the action rather than attaching the lasers at the end of the barrel. I have use these laser cartridges for my 30-30 for bore sighting with great success. Great video and thanks for sharing. The slower moving hard hitting lever in the beginning was very impressive. These old levers are more accurate than they are giving credit for in my opinion up to 200 yds.
Your video helped me out, thanks much. And thanks for the tip about buying a trustworthy bore sighter. I always enjoy your channel's functional presentations.
Thank you Chad and if I get my three hunting licenses this year, I like to check my scopes. The one I have to get used to is a Millett and yes, before wasting 30.06 ammo, I'll follow your advice to be able to try to make suffer-free shots at the animals.
I'd argue against that. But I like Chad, so don't get me wrong. There's just guys that have 30+ years more experience than he does, just because of his age. And you don't specify which kind of shooter. I mean there's guys like Hickok and MAC and Paul Harrell that are great shooters and great channels. Then there's Jerry Miculek, who is kind of a youtuber. He certainly makes videos. There's also .22 Plinkster and other "trick shot" youtubers that somehow achieve insane levels of accuracy. Chad is one of the best long-range shooters. That's really where he shines is on the bench out past 300. That's certainly a feat. But I still would argue that overall he's not one of the best, yet. Give him 20 years and maybe, if there's any firearms channels left by then. But even still, we're only talking about youtube. And this is all speculation unless you're planning on throwing a youtuber competition. Which is something we all deeply want. I've learned unfortunately there's always someone better than you or someone you love or respect. The best only stay that way until someone better comes along.
A S Did you see that 1000yd shot Jerry Miculek did with the 9mm pistol? 2nd shot he nailed that balloon all the way out there. Craziest shot I ever saw.
I would argue that the reason your .223 ammo was moving slow is because of the suppressor. Typically you lose velocity through a can from my understanding. Correct me if I’m wrong please. Other than that, another excellent video Chad!
I think suppressors usually add a little velocity. That velocity was really low though. The powder must be really optimized for 24" barrels or the quoted velocity is trash.
True story I bought a 7- model from a company starting with an R. And the first time I went out I bore sighted. Pulled the trigger and then adjusted the scope. Next subsequent shots were all over the place. Being that I was shooting at 50 yards w a 30-06 I figured it was trigger pull and recoil management and such. Not having a sled or good sand bags I shot 5 boxes of ammo over the next year I still never really get it on point I figured the barrel was just trash or the no name scope was broken. I did some research on the no name scope they use and found out the windage and elevation plates were reversed from the factory. So every adjustment I made was pushing. The bullet away.... moral of the story is buy a good optic immediately. Now though it will shoot 1-2 moa all day.
T. Thomas your problem is that you bought a Model 7- from a company starting with an R. Actually most people think you can buy a rifle, throw on the best glass they can afford and go shoot dimes at 100... in actuality, most barrels need to be taken thru a proper bore “seasoning” or “break-in” before achieving this. Usually during this period of shooting and scrubbing the barrel to smooth out all factory imperfections and smoothing out the rifling lands with small deposits of copper from the bullet jacketing while scrubbing out the excess I shoot the cheapest ammo available. By 100 rounds I start shooting different ammos to see which ammo the rifle likes best. Once I find that ammo, I start with making scope adjustments to find my zero. Time consuming but worth doing to alleviate frustration. I had bought a Ruger M77 Mark II in 30-06 back in 1999. The quality of barrel craftsmanship had gone down hill around this era. It took me 12 years to finally figure it all out (composite stock, stainless barrel. I had been asked by an old timer at the range if I ever did a proper break-in. After admitting. I hadnt, I took his advice and within 50 shots and about 10 barrel scrub downs later I noticed it started tightening up and found it likes 165 gr Federal Fusions and I can shoot sub MOA all day long and I love it
Well I will say now it sorted out and I can consistanly shoot 1 moa with it at 100 yrd. Which is practical hunting range were I hunt. It’s just funny my turrets were backwards from the factory. And yes I’ve ran over 200 rounds with it now and have seen it’s groups tighten up.
Same kind of issues with a Winchester '94. But I just have more rifles than I can dial in this year. Nice little A.E. model, but it may go in my estate sale. Stand by, Folks. If my wife sells 'em for what I told her I paid for them, there's gonna be some serious bargains out there one day!
Jmar S, You hit the nail on the head ! I bought a Savage 110 7mag 'package rifle' from a neighbor in a financial bind. He told me up front that he had the rifle boresighted but couldn't get it properly zeroed so he was willing to make a good deal; he also included the box and a half of the premium ammo he had left. Step 1: I replaced the 'package' scope with a decent one ( Just happened to be an older Leupold VX -3 that I had bought second hand) Step 2 : Went to WallyWorld and bought a few boxes of the cheapest 7mag ammo they had - Federal Power Shok. Step 3: Googled how to adjust a Savage non- accu trigger. Step 4: Began simply shooting until the bolt worked more smoothly ( with proper cleaning along the way). Within 2 boxes I had a tack driver; after trying to upgrade with a couple of premium brands I ended up going back to the cheapo Federal Soft Points because they performed better than any other round in this rifle. For a total cost of $ 565 - including ammo - I have a rifle that can out-shoot my real world capabilities in the field. How Lucky can a fellow get ?
Bore sight with a bore sight, read Marlin sight in guide, shoot three shots at the shot range given, around 25 yards for most velocities. Then shoot one shot at 100 yards to affirm. It works for all my rifles. The higher the velocity the further the initial sight in distance is. For instance with a 30-06 at 25 yards with a 165 grain bullet dead on center will be roughly 1.5 inches high at 100 yards and dead on again at 200 to 215 yards. Try it if you can get your hands on an old Marlin sight in guide.
makes perfect sense,been doing that for 40 years ,never could understand why other hunters could not figure that out even when you tell them how good it works
I am 85 and have been hunting deer since 1954. some advice I can give is to never make your last shot out of a hot barrel The next shot at a 10 pointer will be from a cold barrel . also the last shot is from a dirty bore.
Thank you Sir
The tried and true facts will always work. Well said Sir.
You advice is well said
Well said
When 85 year olds speak. You should listen up. Thank you sir.
Love the technique! My father used to use a golf ball at 50 yards with every new rifle/scope combo over the years. Put the gun on the bags, (on the patio table in the backyard!!), remove the bolt, find the ball in the bore, raise up and find the ball in the scope. Go to the range and 100% of the time we were on the paper at 100 yds. Fine tune with a few shots just like you demonstrated. I guess the white of the golf ball is also easy to "center" in the bore because rarely were we off by much when doing the final tuning. Enjoy the channel!! Thanks for the info!!
Great tip. Thank you.
Thank you! I used your technique today and it took me 3 shots, not 2, only because I focused on the center of the target the second shot instead of the bullet hole to make my adjustment. BUT... I hit bullseye after bullseye at 100 yards after only 3 shots with a brand new rifle and a brand new scope. Once again THANK YOU!!
I learned this very technique 26 years ago when I went to JRTC. The knowledge shared here is spot on! Excellent clip!
been using this technique for 40 years, its a great way to get a quick on paper shot. figured this out on my own. glad you are doing this, helps people who can't get to a gun store or have a bore sight.
Yep I was doing this in 1976 with ole 30-30 savage bolt action when I was 16 years old. Still have that rifle and its dead nuts accurate. My dad gave it to me the first time he took me deer hunting with him. I can hit golf balls with it at 75 yards with same old 40 year old tasco scope.
In short - boresight down the barrel, fire one shot, adjust the reticle till it covers the first hole, shoot again to check.
He said go down and to the left, but he went up and to the right where the hole was. I'm confused????
The adjustments on the scope don't move the reticle the same direction as indicated on the knob; they "move" the bullet impact in that direction. If the bullet hits high and right, normally, you would apply the proper amount of left and low adjustments to bring the bullet impact down to the bullseye. In this video, though, Chad is moving the reticle to match the bullet impact. Regardless of whether the impact is being moved to the bullseye or the reticle is being moved to the impact, the adjustment on the scope is the same: the bullet impacted high and right, so you need to "move" the bullet impact low and left.
BULL HEMA he was talking about moving the point of impact of the bullet.
Its possible its a reticle overlay edited in not an actual view down the scope
Cj R
I've always gotten confused with reading site adjustment instructions, ( be it iron sites or a scope), when they say "to move the bullet impact", because your not moving the impact point, your moving the sites to where the impact is hitting. Unless your shooting something that has fixed sites.
I saw this over a year ago and just wanted to confirm how awesome and easy this is to do with your weapon. Zeroed my ar at 50 yards today with this method, no issue.
I did that with my bolt action 30/06. I did it at home in my appartment and directed it at a point on a building as far away as possible in order to get the line of sight as parallel to the bore as possible. I repeated it a couple of times in different light, then calculated what the bullet drop on 150 m would be, adjusted accordingly. On the range I fired two shots. Both on target - no further adjustment.
Nobody on the range believed me when I told that I had done.
Excellent video!! Our Sportsman's Club just finished two days of rifle "Sight-In Days" just prior to opening day of rifle season. We get every type of shooter from the very advanced shooter to the person who is a complete neophyte with absolutely no idea how to do anything. We end up doing a lot of bore sighting for those who show up with a newly mounted scope and a rifle that they have never fired. We always try to help them learn as best we can through the whole process. One of the most confusing things for them to grasp is scope adjustments and how they work. Like many of the previous comments, I always try to get them to understand that if they want to move the point where the bullet impacts, they should turn the turrets in the direction indicated on the dial.That is, if they need to move the bullet impact point UP for instance, they should turn the turret dial in the direction indicated by the direction of the little arrow and the associated "u" or "up". But if they happen to be looking through the scope when making this adjustment, the reticle itself will move in the opposite direction, or down. This makes sense if you then visualize what you would do with the rifle to place the newly positioned reticle on the center of the target again, which would be to point the rifle up, moving the impact point up. Trying to understand this principle can be confusing, but a person does not really need to worry about it. When you have fired the first shot, and are in the process of moving the cross hairs to the actual bullet impact point. simply twist the dials in whatever direction they need to be twisted in order to make the cross hairs move to the bullet impact point. KISS Principle! Again, thanks for this outstanding video!
I zeroed the scope on a rifle this week that I was teaching a class with by simply firing a few rounds at a steel target and adjusting the windage and elevation as needed to bring my POA to my POI. It worked perfectly, and my students (some of which were foreigners and had never fired a gun in their life) were hitting 2" steel targets @ 50 yards with regularity.
Good advice. I learned this from my uncle with my bolt actions. Good on you. REMEMBER guys, most people we want to be with us, don't have any experience with firearms. We all need to bring the new generation in.
Learned this trick from another channel but this was a good verification of great advice. I boresighted my Mosin M44 iron sights out to 100 yards on a 10" steel target and it helped immensely to figure out where that crazy Russian was shooting. I now have it adjusted. Now I just need to learn how to shoot better. This works for scopes and irons and better than my laser bore sighter.
Just a tip young fella..when dialing in your scope on both windage and elevation I always turn 2-3 clicks more than I need to, then turn the turrets back in 2- 3 clicks this will aid on putting back the spring tension,,every bit helps,,Here in OZ we all use that method ..PS good show
@John Gallagher Whats wrong ?
One day I was out shooting with my dads buddy (Ex sniper in the marines) he showed me how to zero in his 6.5 and it took me a bit but it was fun. He hoped on the gun and put 3 shots all in the same hole (100 yards). couldn't even tell he had fired 2 shots after the first. It is crazy not only how far guns have come but also how skilled a man can be with one. Most humble guy I've ever met. I was like "wow thats crazy", not even a smile or laugh out of him, just acted like he does it all the time.
I had someone do it to me also he fired one shot bullzeye and next 2 shots he purposely missed the target completely and said the other 2 bullets went through same hole....lol
@@greekmaster1001 That's a good tip; miss completely and no one can prove otherwise. Like tossing a 3/4 inch fender washer in the air and putting a hole in the center.
Chad you do a great job most of the time communicating your point of view. I bore sight the same as you and have been for almost 50 years. Explaining the 35 Rem shot adjustment after the first shot will most likely confuse many new shooters. I give the same range lesson often but use the actual direction of bullet to paper contact where as you used the optic visual change to bore. When a newbe tries to translate what we know. They generally get very confused when making fine tune adjustments on paper with followup shots. Just my observation from years of training others. Thanks and keep up the good work!
Fair play with the little animated diagrams on the right, lovely bit of effort put in 👍
Hey Chad . I know y’all fellas are good men and knowledgeable . I used to get confused when someone would explain a scope to me until my father made it simple for me one day . He said quit making it difficult and move the impact to where u r aiming . Life got a whole lot easier after that day . I know that’s not what’s happening but it makes it super easy to sight in a scope . Once someone explains it an a language people can understand they can be confused later after the scope is sighted . 25 yds , 50 yds then 100 .
Great video!!! It was SOOOOO HELPFUL to shave the reticle in the frame so we could see exactly what Chad was doing was pure genius and helped so much. Thank you for your hard work.
Your video shows the cheapest and fastest way to zero-in a scope. I've told people that if my first shot is on paper, the next shot will be zeroed in. Some have said no way, that it takes at least 3 to 4 or more shots to zero in! Until they see me do the 2 shot sighting. Then they fall over, face-palm themselves and say "Why didn't I think of that"......................lol
Great vid, thanks for sharing and enlightening the shooters.
Outstanding tutorial!!!!!! I'm about to sight-in 4-5 rifles and this instruction is as good as it gets. You're slow and methodical technique prompts good memory retention as a viewer. I support you on Patreon and find your information enjoyable and very well presented. Thanks so much!
Good video. The easy way to remember what the directions on the turrets mean (Left/Up) is that it always refers to where you want the POI to go/change. If the POI is high and right, you move the turrets low and left as indicated on the turrets. Clockwise on the turrets is down and left. So, counter clockwise is up and right. Simple.
I find it easier to understand and remember to say move the POI to the center with your reticle on center. For me it eliminates that opposite movement confusion. Could be my brain though.
That's opposite what he says though. What he's saying is, adjust your reticle where the bullet lands.
@@DG-xj7pmya so if it's high and to the right move the reticle high and to the right. I don't get why he saying the opposite but then moving the reticle to the poi
I look at it as clockwise pushes the bullet (down/left) and counter clockwise pulls the bullet (up/right). Works for me.
@@wes326 Actually, the way I think about it is if my shot goes low, I move the turret "up" as indicated on the turret. Or if the shot goes left, I move the turret left as indicated on the turret.
Yes, I know I am moving the reticle to the POI and not the other way around, but it is much easier to think about it in those terms.
You move the turret in the direction you want the apparent POI to go even though the POI stays the same and you are actually moving the reticle to match the POI.
It is just easier to remember and use/think about it that way. Aim small, miss small! (smile)
Quite possibly the best video on this subject that I've seen. Was able to sight in an eotech and LPVO on two different AR'S just now in under 30 min with this video (and 10 total rounds)!
This is how I have sighted in scopes for 15 years. Excellent tutorial and I will recommend this video to friends!
Great success with the Marlin 336 in .35 Remington in only two shots at 50 yards. I do prefer hollow scope rings so the iron sights are still useful if need be. Taking the rifle partially apart in-lieu of removing the bolt is beyond the ability of some folks.
In order to get the first (proverbial) horseshoe close to the stake I use a quality laser bore sighter and zero in the reticle onto the laser boresighter at 50 yards and then begin the test shots with a cold barrel.
When hunting the barrel will usually be unfired and therefore cold. It is important to keep the rifle in the same position throughout the process on the bench resting on the woodstock or forearm and not the barrel. Shoot at the range to sight in just like you will shoot out in the field. Once you are on the paper where you should be then move out to 100 yards and possibly out to 200 yards.
The big thing is caliber, grains of bullet, and range of target. Don't expect the same results on paper with different ammo manufacturers, different grains of bullet weight, and different distances in yards. Also be aware of bullet trajectory specific to your load and length of barrel and don't overshoot the capability of your combo.
Thank you so much I have tried this before and didn't understand it but this helped so much. I went and got a new scope today and had it sighted in within 15 minutes and 3 shots. Thank you
Great video showing the benefits of bore-sighting, through the bore when possible or with the use of a laser bore sight. Saves a lot of time, ammo and frustration. Well done!
I came up with a one shot zero technique on my
own when I was 12. Had a lever action 22mag and aquired a cheap 4 power scope for it. I simply clamped it in our shop vice with cardboard around it pointing it out the door into the pasture. Looked through the scope out about 50 yards and then took out a cardboard box with a spot on it into the field of the scope. Moved things around till it was lined up. Fired a shot. Went and marked it big enough to see well. Made sure the scope was on the original spot. Clamped the gun good and simply adjusted the scope screws to the impact spot. DONE. Tried it in the vice at 100 yds was dead on. Granted the small caliber allowed for solid mounting. Probably not a good idea with bigger guns. But would work with a sled if you were careful not to move it during scope adjustment.
Chad, Your best video ever. I have used this technique for years and you have just proven how efficient it is. Keep up the good work!
Used this method to zero my deer rifle this season, took 4 shots. Two at 25yards and two at 100.
Thanks
I literally just did this, went to some videos for non-lead ammo reloading and boom, your video on this shows up! Great stuff!
Very good knowledge passdown. One word of caution for prepping for long range is make dead sure your crosshairs AND your target are dead level when sighting. Makes more difference at greater distances. Its like a paint job. All in the prep.
awesome seeing someone making videos with a 35 Remington, my favorite gun :)
I love the way you demonstrate on how easy it is to sight a rifle and scope. You explain everything so it can be understood by anyone.. Great Job
Q
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The most important thing is to level and mount the scope the correct way. I did this with my savage axis 243. First shot at one hundred yards was almost dead center. I couldn't believe it.
I learned something from your video and will be using bore sighting to correct my .308 rifle which I am having problems with. I want to thank you for showing us new shooters how to adjust the rifle scope and rifle.
Your channel is awesome! Today I used your tip to get my AR’s offset red dot zeroed. Otherwise I was just wasting ammo! Thanks guys!!
I can testify to looking through the bore then scope being a great way to zero a rifle. Gets me EXTREMELY close, on paper, then just a couple shots makes it golden.
This is the most informative gun video I've seen on UA-cam in over 10 years of watching gun videos here!
Nice video,i was frustrated my first time out with my AR-15.I bought a laser bore sight.I zero it out the night before when its dark so i can see the dot.Now i can hit target at 100 yards all day.
Great video! You guys always are always so informative. I have used a adaptation of this method to confirm receiver/barrel/sight alignment on my parts sets builds. I mount the gun solidly to the work bench, and sight thru the bore to a grid taped to the wall.
Shoulder the rifle with the barrel against full length mirror. You will get double crosshairs. Align the double image to single image. You'll be damn close without firing a bullet.
After 4 or 5 shots, chamber is hot. This will be your reason for shots to hit high. On yer 5 or 6 shot and more, leave bolt open in between shots until yer ready to shoot within 5 seconds. This will keep brass and powder from heating up before ya shoot. Try it, you'll like it.
Very good advice, you also might try cleaning the barrel after 5 to 10 shots that may make a big difference also. when you take the gun hunting you're shooting with a clean bore
Wow dude, I've been watching this channel for a long time but left shortly after the passing of Barry Elliott. I'm now back and you're looking better than ever. I almost didn't even recognize you! So whatever you're doing with training/nutrition you're on point.
"This rifle is zeroed in two shots"
Me- (CLAPS LOUDLY)
:D
Me: Laughs in .308
Well done Chad! Simple, straightforward and to the point. The proof is in the shots down range. As far laser bore sighting, I've heard of individuals ruining a firearm with them. They forget to remove before they fired a live round. It's careless, but stuff happens. Thanks.
They don’t need to be handling fire arms then
Awesome video on how to zero your rifle to your scope. You guys at IV888 do some helpful videos on firearms and their really enjoyable to watch too. IV888 for life.
I'm A Old Timer That's How We Do it for Years. Thank you so much for Showing People the Right Way to
Sighting in. . Good Stuff
Definitely something I needed to watch. I'm one brain cell into this thing so it's ridiculously hard to comprehend the zero process until someone shows me how to do it. I don't have many guns that would apply to this one but I'll try the bore laser when I can.
I was always taught to use a three shot sighting to get it right... works every time. But I like what you have shown and will try it next time.
Good info.
Great video. I'm new to guns, so I've been training with iron sight just to get the basics down. I really wanna get I to hunting, so this info is very valuable me as I start getting into using optics.
Another good method a Leupold rep passed along was that you can take your scope and stand it Obj. down on a mirror and when you look through it you'll see a clear reticle and a fuzzy reticle. Adjust the crosshair until both reticles are aligned. It centers your reticle within the scope and as long as your bases and scope are mounted true you should be on paper if not pretty close when you begin. Pairing that with using the Reticle to Hole adjusting method Chad showed should get you zeroed.
Love those LaRue targets. Gives the perfect aiming point imo
It's ok to zero with my scope zoomed in instead of just being on 1x right?
You saved me countless rounds using this visual bore sight method. My Mossberg Patriot was a nightmare to site in with the stock BS scope it came with. Swap in a MDT LSS chassis and ATN 4K Pro it made this rifle accurate and fun thanks to your method vs ATN's one shot zero. News flash I'm no expert, but after watching your method, best believe I was on paper after the first shot and it was pretty easy to dial in at 100 yards. I'd like to use this method at 300 yards and dial it back a little. PS I'm using shitty non match grade ammo
Thanks Chad that was a great tip. I have had some trouble getting my AR15 sighted right where I want it. I'm going to the range tomorrow and put this method to work.
try searching "jerking the trigger target". its a 50/200 yard zero you can do at 10 yards. i used in my hallway in my house and took it to the range and was spot on. no wasted ammo.
One the best and simplest concepts of zeroing a rifle for a noobie like myself. Appreciated the examples with different rifles showing very good results. Thanks!!
I've always just shot once at 50 and moved the appropriate number of clicks, knowing that a 1/4moa click will only move 1/8" at 50 yards. Shoot at 100 and make any fine tune adjustments as needed. Math vs relying on keeping the gun perfectly still while adjusting
My father was a navy seal I was a marine .my entire life he taught me the same exact thing. There are a lot of people that go through boxes of ammo think their gun is junk when that's not the truth. They need to get more familiar with their weapon. In my opinion I don't think the laser sights give it As exact as the way you're doing it here. When you're doing it through a bore site and you know what you're doing or what you're doing it is so much easier sometimes the lens for that red laser is tilted 1/2 of it hitting off the board of the rifle so you're not getting the full effect doing it the way you're doing it right now is the best best way to save ammo. As well love the channel to keep up the good work this is a good one for dear season to repost
Yay finally Chad!! Lol love you guys
You don't even know how much you have helped me. I am the person That you described at the beginning of your video. Funny thing I was trying to sight in my new Henry 6.5 creedmoor today. Shamefully I tell you I went through 60 rounds . And ended up where your 1st shot was. THANK Q 🇺🇸
Title: “one shot”
Video: 26mins
dude this is by far the best tutorial in zeroing omg. other people out there suck
It would be great if you guys made a video "all you need to know about leverguns" breaking down the rifle and components and explaining different upgrades and what not.
Yes, I have a 336w and I would like to know more about it.
Lever guns are ridiculously simple
the loading gate on ranch hand has sharp edged.....and the stupid key operated hammer lock screw
James Sholts i just posted a question here then saw this comment. i have an Enfield, Marlin 336 in 35 rem. do you know if I can change the barrel? it is shot out. It's an old gun I acquired and would love to bring it back if possible.
Thank you.
i have been doing this for over 30 years, it the only way for me to sight in..it quick and easy and a whole lot less ammo.. I have lots of people come to me before season ..to sight in their gun,s..for them... first video i have seen on here.. i personal think it the best way!!! great vid..
Thank You So Much For This Video Chad You have Taught Me So Much about How To Zero Your Rifle.
Exactly!!!! I do this method all the time. Your explanation is excellent!
Been doin it like this all my life.
My girlfriend asked why my friend wanted a rifle with a scope who knew nothing about guns (but was interested in the sport) I told her that you will never learn unless you get your hands in yourself. The first time you get the designated optic zeroed it feels amazing. We all have to learn the basics at some point which was my point.
I have a laser bore that goes in the muzzle already. It can work with everything from .22 to 10ga. Easy and fast to get it right in there. I actually just aim at the wall in my house and adjust before going to the range. Then at the range, I am never more then an inch off to start with.
Jesse Sisolack what brand of boresight do you use?
I forget, ha. I bought it a long time ago, and either the name was not on it, or it has worn off.
Dude we do the same thing
I do the same. Mine is one you actually chamber, as it is the shape of a .223 case. Point it down the longest straight hallway in the house and I never have an issue hitting what I am aiming at, though I rarely shoot over 100 yards
Those lasers are even more accurate, allowing for more fine tuning, but they are caliber dedicated while the bore one can be used for many different calibers. I guess it depends on what firearms you own. If you have a few calibers, then those bullet laser ones are great. If you have 50 different calibers like me, that gets a bit expensive, ha.
You would be surprised how many hunters and shooters simply cannot, will not believe this can be done. It has been in the bench resters tool bag of tricks forever!
Thanks for putting it in a vid!
KnifeMaker
I picked this technique up from Precision Shooting magazine maybe 25 yrs ago. Unfortunately this video is incorrect. You want to find something as far away as as you can to vastly reduce the minor misalignment's while centering the bore to what your zeroing the scope to. For that reason I usually do it after dark and find a street light or any light 1-2 miles away or more. Center the bore to that pinpoint of light then do the same with the crosshairs. It's easy and ultra accurate. I've done it enough I'm confident of being under an inch from the point of aim with any decent shooting rifle at 100 yrds.
Wow!! Thanks for making this video for us. Very well done, Excellent speech presentation, And you are very detailed as well as efficient. Excellent job!!!
This is witch craft haha I've been watching videos all week on zeroing techniques and this makes so much sense. I just bought a Bergara b14 HMR Wilderness for an upcoming hunt in 2 months, this video is much appreciated for a newer shooter like myself. Thanks man
Very easy to understand and accomplish video, should be of great help even to newer shooters. well done Sir !!!+
I've done it that way before, but I have a similar way if you have a good scope like a leupold, or at least a scope that tracks good..., I put the the gun in a vice. I use a 4x8 sheet of plywood at 100 yds, i fire at a dot on it. Then reset the rifle aiming at the dot then align the reticle to where the bullet hit... 1 shot and done, you can confirm but for 150 yds and in its not necessary. I love a mil dot reticle.
I agree. I heard you line up your reticle to your first shot.
I’m all about poor man budget Chad,great video as always
Learned more on this video than any other video. Thanks Chad!
I've always done this, I have a laser bore sight... but my son stripped the adjustment screws and I don't trust it lol. but looking through the bore has never let me down.
interesting......is there anyway to fix stripped screws on a red dot, say the sightmark dual shot pro for example? It was a 150$ scope included with an AR I bought a while back and ive never been able to use it due to the horizontal adjustment set screw not doing a damn thing, no matter how far I turn it up or down it wont do anything to reticle. Ive been using a Romeo 5 as a replacement scope but it would just be nice to know if this is fixable or even feasible to try and jack with it to hopefully fix it?
unleasheth c
Thank you for going to so much trouble to explain and demonstrate this technique. Makes a lot of sense.
Every laser bore sighter I have tried has been WAAAY off...this method is how we sighted in in the Navy..
Been using this method for a long time now. It’s surprising how many people don’t. Thank again for a great video.
Great video guys. Informative and entertaining as usual.
I’m sure you know they make laser sighting cartridges that lock right into the chamber when you close the action rather than attaching the lasers at the end of the barrel. I have use these laser cartridges for my 30-30 for bore sighting with great success. Great video and thanks for sharing. The slower moving hard hitting lever in the beginning was very impressive. These old levers are more accurate than they are giving credit for in my opinion up to 200 yds.
Great graphics, thank you for your effort
Lmao I was thinking the same thing. Gun would move all around and crosshair wouldnt move.
Your video helped me out, thanks much. And thanks for the tip about buying a trustworthy bore sighter. I always enjoy your channel's functional presentations.
This Is The Best Video Showing How To Zero Your Rifle Great Job Thanks.
Thank you Chad and if I get my three hunting licenses this year, I like to check my scopes.
The one I have to get used to is a Millett and yes, before wasting 30.06 ammo, I'll follow
your advice to be able to try to make suffer-free shots at the animals.
Chad_iv8888, arguably one of the best set shooters on yt.
Definitely better than all other 2A channels I've seen. The stuff Eric does on iron sights too is ridiculous.
I'd argue against that. But I like Chad, so don't get me wrong. There's just guys that have 30+ years more experience than he does, just because of his age. And you don't specify which kind of shooter. I mean there's guys like Hickok and MAC and Paul Harrell that are great shooters and great channels. Then there's Jerry Miculek, who is kind of a youtuber. He certainly makes videos. There's also .22 Plinkster and other "trick shot" youtubers that somehow achieve insane levels of accuracy. Chad is one of the best long-range shooters. That's really where he shines is on the bench out past 300. That's certainly a feat. But I still would argue that overall he's not one of the best, yet. Give him 20 years and maybe, if there's any firearms channels left by then. But even still, we're only talking about youtube. And this is all speculation unless you're planning on throwing a youtuber competition. Which is something we all deeply want. I've learned unfortunately there's always someone better than you or someone you love or respect. The best only stay that way until someone better comes along.
But I'd argue Jerry Miculek may be the best shooter that has lived so far.
A S Did you see that 1000yd shot Jerry Miculek did with the 9mm pistol? 2nd shot he nailed that balloon all the way out there. Craziest shot I ever saw.
doesn't he also do a long range shot holding a pistol upside down?
Chad thanks for taking the time to make this Video, We (Boers) here in South Africa love you Guy's Channel, Have a Good One Bud!
I would argue that the reason your .223 ammo was moving slow is because of the suppressor. Typically you lose velocity through a can from my understanding. Correct me if I’m wrong please. Other than that, another excellent video Chad!
I think suppressors usually add a little velocity. That velocity was really low though. The powder must be really optimized for 24" barrels or the quoted velocity is trash.
nice to see others having the same problems with sight in. Ammo is more of a problem than the rifle or scope.
True story I bought a 7- model from a company starting with an R. And the first time I went out I bore sighted. Pulled the trigger and then adjusted the scope. Next subsequent shots were all over the place. Being that I was shooting at 50 yards w a 30-06 I figured it was trigger pull and recoil management and such. Not having a sled or good sand bags I shot 5 boxes of ammo over the next year I still never really get it on point I figured the barrel was just trash or the no name scope was broken. I did some research on the no name scope they use and found out the windage and elevation plates were reversed from the factory. So every adjustment I made was pushing. The bullet away.... moral of the story is buy a good optic immediately. Now though it will shoot 1-2 moa all day.
T. Thomas your problem is that you bought a Model 7- from a company starting with an R. Actually most people think you can buy a rifle, throw on the best glass they can afford and go shoot dimes at 100... in actuality, most barrels need to be taken thru a proper bore “seasoning” or “break-in” before achieving this. Usually during this period of shooting and scrubbing the barrel to smooth out all factory imperfections and smoothing out the rifling lands with small deposits of copper from the bullet jacketing while scrubbing out the excess I shoot the cheapest ammo available. By 100 rounds I start shooting different ammos to see which ammo the rifle likes best. Once I find that ammo, I start with making scope adjustments to find my zero. Time consuming but worth doing to alleviate frustration. I had bought a Ruger M77 Mark II in 30-06 back in 1999. The quality of barrel craftsmanship had gone down hill around this era. It took me 12 years to finally figure it all out (composite stock, stainless barrel. I had been asked by an old timer at the range if I ever did a proper break-in. After admitting. I hadnt, I took his advice and within 50 shots and about 10 barrel scrub downs later I noticed it started tightening up and found it likes 165 gr Federal Fusions and I can shoot sub MOA all day long and I love it
Well I will say now it sorted out and I can consistanly shoot 1 moa with it at 100 yrd. Which is practical hunting range were I hunt. It’s just funny my turrets were backwards from the factory. And yes I’ve ran over 200 rounds with it now and have seen it’s groups tighten up.
Same kind of issues with a Winchester '94. But I just have more rifles than I can dial in this year. Nice little A.E. model, but it may go in my estate sale. Stand by, Folks. If my wife sells 'em for what I told her I paid for them, there's gonna be some serious bargains out there one day!
Jmar S, You hit the nail on the head ! I bought a Savage 110 7mag 'package rifle' from a neighbor in a financial bind. He told me up front that he had the rifle boresighted but couldn't get it properly zeroed so he was willing to make a good deal; he also included the box and a half of the premium ammo he had left. Step 1: I replaced the 'package' scope with a decent one ( Just happened to be an older Leupold VX -3 that I had bought second hand) Step 2 : Went to WallyWorld and bought a few boxes of the cheapest 7mag ammo they had - Federal Power Shok. Step 3: Googled how to adjust a Savage non- accu trigger. Step 4: Began simply shooting until the bolt worked more smoothly ( with proper cleaning along the way). Within 2 boxes I had a tack driver; after trying to upgrade with a couple of premium brands I ended up going back to the cheapo Federal Soft Points because they performed better than any other round in this rifle. For a total cost of $ 565 - including ammo - I have a rifle that can out-shoot my real world capabilities in the field. How Lucky can a fellow get ?
Great job Chad you couldn't make it any easier.. Thanks.
6:22 what he really wanted to say was f yeah! I told y’all mfers
Bore sight with a bore sight, read Marlin sight in guide, shoot three shots at the shot range given, around 25 yards for most velocities. Then shoot one shot at 100 yards to affirm. It works for all my rifles. The higher the velocity the further the initial sight in distance is. For instance with a 30-06 at 25 yards with a 165 grain bullet dead on center will be roughly 1.5 inches high at 100 yards and dead on again at 200 to 215 yards. Try it if you can get your hands on an old Marlin sight in guide.
Well demonstrated Chad :)
This is how I learned to sight in my rifles. It works damn well
Awesome!! Earliest I’ve ever been!
makes perfect sense,been doing that for 40 years ,never could understand why other hunters could not figure that out even when you tell them how good it works
I really enjoy your videos, very informative and user friendly. Thanks for keeping it simple for us dumbasses. You are my “go to guys”
This is also how i always sight in my rifles too, its always worked great for me, i learned it when i was in my unit in the army