Look into superfast matt's shifter design for his motorcycle engine powered s600. It seems relatively simple and doable, and I think the shifter-mounted clutch is really cool
Now THAT’S CUSTOMIZING!!! Like the time I dropped a nearly-new 300ZX Twin-turbo motor, 6speed manual and corvette rear end in my 1990 Nissan pickup…. What fun!
in america probaly the hayabusa motor its worth more than teh pick up..... but in EU the pick its worth around 15 20k golf mk1 caddy adn the motorbike its worth around 8-12k
I think Id just lower the engine some more by building an engine cradle and put a skid plate under it-I mean the rear diff rocks down that low so having the engine closer to the ground might not be a bad idea. An electric drive unit in the front is another genius idea by Rich, I'm here for it
I put a bike engine (R1) in my Lotus 7 replica. Even used a Ranger axle (though a 7.5 due to weight and space). FYI you can easily adapt SN95 Mustang rear disc brakes to that if you want. For the shifter cable, definitely a push pull cable. So much easier to route. I got mine from controlcables (along with my throttle and ebrake cables). It feels very solid and you can even mount a quickshifter strain sensor to it. For the driveshaft adapter, a steel 1310 adapter from DRchassis is the way to go. Double cardan ujoints will help with the angle. At least the pinion is offset in the right direction on that thing. Do you plan on having a reverse? You could do a chain drive to a reverse box and then driveshaft to the axle. If you get creative, you could even do a chain to the input of the reverse box, then driveshafts to front and rear (if you have a way to unlock the front hubs). You can also check out the rear ends from Elite Racing Transmissions. They even have one with a built in reverse. Too rich for my blood but super cool.
Mind sharing some knowledge? I've got a 2018 x10r that was totaled. Motor and everything still good. Have a 66 triumph spitfire all gutted to the frame and solid body panels all around. Was thinking of mounting it up front and using a differential adapter to run a shaft for the read end. Mechanically making that all work I'm more than comfortable with. But what do I do with all the wiring and sensors? Do I use the same cluster? Make my own? Haha I'm nervous!
You could run a chain from the transmission to an output shaft similar to how a portal axle works and have that run to the rear diff. Then you could even center the motor as you wish.
Exactly.. Build a simple jack shaft down low, that is more inline with the diff and can mount your drive shaft to; which will have a sprocket right behind it. Then you can mount your engine in the most ideal place, rather than being forced to make it hang so low.
Vehicles on portal axles are usually slow mostly used for off-road that is why i do believe what Ritch really need is the expertise on this project of someone who is working in a factory that produce drive-shafts ..
@@poplaurentiu4148 I'm not saying use portal axles of course. Same principles as any transfer case like those in every Jeep and 4WD truck. Just pointed backwards instead of forwards.
Enjoying the content as always, really missing Steven on the show though. Hope he is well and we at least get an update on him since we havent heard anything from him or about him since the crash.
Yeah 30 years ago I had to go through surgery on my eyes for that! Not by choice either! I was broke down out in the middle of nowhere had no way to get safety glasses. Not fun.
You could do axle over leaf springs to retain ride height and ground clearance for the engine. And I would personally make a flange for the output of the Hayabusa transmission an fab small slip yoke drive shaft
Seriously l. I was yelling at the TV. It's obvious since the original axle has the hubs offset well above the axle tube itself. So yeah axle on top of spring is the way to go. I really hope they didn't hack it up already. Undercutting the gears is totally worth it. My old ZX6 was bulletproof after undercutting.
I get the no mods solid axle on factory leaf springs -- but with such a short driveshaft the rear suspension movement should be next to nothing which would be annoying for driving. Why not IRS ? More fabrication needed, leaf springs for trashcan, but no problem with a proper suspension and diff in one position
The factory diesels in those things are BEASTLY with a handful of mods, there was one around here about 30 years ago that was making 60+ psi and was always out on the salt flats doing stupid fast pulls. It was owned by one of the owners of M&H tire (the drag radial tire company)
Simple fix for your driveline problem is a jack shaft, similar to an open chain drive drop box. This is basically a shaft supported by bearings with a chain sprocket that is driven from the sprocket from the original engine/transmission. Then a flange on said shaft appropriate to accept the drive shaft that drives the rear differential. This also has several benefits to it as well. You’ll be able to set your engine centred if you choose, simple ratio changes without touching the rear differential and if you choose to you could also have a front output to then have all wheel drive. You could also have a gear driven sealed drop box/transfer case. It would be stronger and safer but also heavier, substantially more expensive and not as quick/easy to play with gear ratio changes.
Use a chain to make a dropbox so the output shaft can be anywhere you want independently of the engine placement and you get to make your own adapters as well! Monstertrucks usually do that
You need to check driveline angles with the suspension fully loaded. You want equal but opposite in the 1-3 degree range. You will probably need to get stiffer springs or add slapper bars for spring wrap under load. Also gonna need to rotate the turbo center section so the drain is facing down.
my idea is if it's gonna be a hybrid as you imply, toss the batteries behind the engine, that way you have more weight over the rear end. and regarding the pinion angle, if you guys are already fabbing mounts anyways, just tilt both the engine and diff a little so the angle isn't as aggressive. aside from that i'm sure you guys know more than i do so do your thing, and i'm waiting to see how this turns out, the future is looking good here
Idk if you saw a TikTok of two dudes driving a pickup backwards (they are literally sitting looking at the back) and I just would love to see you build something weird like that!!! Also missing Steve like everyone 😊
2000's Chrysler/Dodge minivan AWD rearend. It has a solid beam axle on leaf springs like the Volkswagen, but a differential bolted to the chassis, with half shafts connecting the differential to the wheel hubs.
It's been months, long enough that new subs have found this channel and don't know he existed. They'll have the privilege to get to know the channel in the same way as Rich's earliest pre-whistlehippy subscribers did. And then he will return. And everyone will be on the same page. The holy trinity, uncle Rich, the whistle hippy and the thick Boston chick will redeem us.
Sounds like you guys should connect with the Grind Hard guys about how to connect the sprocket to the rear axle. I feel like their builds have had to utilize unique coupling systems to work out, worth a shot to ask!
as some one who owns a VW MK1 2007 caddy sport, just to add, that the rabbit (still the same car-ish) is made very diff compeared towords the "traditional" mk1 caddy (whit duel/singelar rounded headlights dependant on model, and a fiberglass/metal body),(and yes i know the original design not production model was not round headlighted), the "traditional" mk1 caddy mostly came whit a 1,6 4 cil engine, and most people who would engine swap the car would HIGHLY be a VW VR6, it,s just sad to see alot of peaople miss-understand the golf community :(
Another thought, to help reduce shock load when shifting into gear and isolate vibrations there are several solutions used in marine applications. They have a bunch of different styles of shaft couplings that do what your looking for. Poly flex flexible shaft coupler is a style that could work. Take care, Randy
Get a hold of a local Dwarf/Modlite/Legends race supplier. They will have the coupler you need to make a drive shaft work. Also if you wanted to shift the engine more to the center you can get a rear end from one of those cars also. They are narrow and the diff is to the right. Also, for the transmission, I would look into back cut gears but the biggest issue is the output shaft. The guy may have already installed one but a billet shaft is a must. I have broken two stock ones on a bike before that came out with the billet one. And while it's apart the shift forks need to be be replaced with stronger ones. Buy once, cry once. A.P.E. is a good source for any parts you need.
Do a chain drive, then you can place the motor higher, and just stick a sprocket on the end of a drive shaft. You could even center the motor for better weight distribution.
That thing is so stinking cool rich. Im a huge fan of those rabbit pick ups. I was so hoping you would do something cool and original to this particular vehicle and you never let me down. Great job!! And please if u ever feel like selling this or get bored of it plz let us know
I have done this before, bring the engine back so the sprocket is above the difs output, and run a 1.4:2 sprocket chain drive (approximate gearing), this will remove most of the gearbox/clutch shock problems, and put more weight over the rear wheels where it's needed, also, it means you don't need a prop shaft, or run a shaft like a jackshaft. The other way you can do it is to run a jackshaft from the dif, (UJ-jackshaft-UJ) with a sprocket aligning with the engine's sprocket as you have the engine now, but this will mean you will need to fabricate outriggers to hold it, along with the outriggers to the engine mounts.
Chain drive Jack shaft....two piece driveshaft (with a carrier bearing and a flange for a sprocket) then there is even the possibility of gearing options.
y'all can place the engine more to the center to drive a jack shaft with pillar block bearings. send the shaft forward and use a longer drive shaft to a uni with three more pillar block bearings using another short chain and sprockets. Y'all can alter the ratio with one of the sprockets.
With the rear end on the springs as you suggest, tilt the engine by rotating it clockwise (to drinkers side) along the sprocket axis, then rotate the engine counter clockwise to have the socket face the rear U joint. Rotate the rear axle counter clockwise so that the U joint faces the sprocket. The rear pumpkin doesn't have to be level to the ground and I doubt the angle would be that severe to hamper lubing it. Using the method would greatly reduce the complexity of joining the 2. Just need to make sure the backwards tilt of the engine isn't too much to prevent proper lubrication. That's the method I'd use to pull this off.
I was just combing through the comments and about to say this is the first week no one mentioned Stevon, and then I found this comment. Steadfast, keeping the faith, holding that candle in the rain. For the first few months I wondered if maybe Rich was watching the comments and analytics, and comparing the difference. I know I clicked in to the mystery, watching Rich Rebuilds videos closer to release, just curious about an update. Before, I enjoyed the chemistry, the jokes, the trio, Rich, the hippy and the chick. When it seemed there was a possible secret split, I searched the web, I wonder how many weeks Rich Rebuilds trended on search queries, how many of us that watched casually - binging 3 or 4 videos every couple months - came back to watch through. And by the comments, how many scrutinized segments such as the rivian helmet drive scene, repeat watching bits. What I'm getting at is, maybe he's on the shelf until we stop searching. I dig the throwback vibe to the old old days of the channel. But damn do I miss the whistle.
Maybe just run a chain down to the driveline? Wold need to mount the front of the driveline to a big bearing that could move up and down to adjust chain tension. Would also allow you to offset the motor from the driveline.
Have done this swap like a million time....in my head. And every time I decided IRS was the way to go, but always hated the idea of having to build out strut towers and cutting up the truck bed even more. Will have to do more daydreaming to get it all noodled out, but I think you can use a corvette rear out of any year that had the carriage spring that goes side to side, so like C3-C5 I think? Then just put the shocks wherever and you can run a driveshaft that isn't short and has to jump around like crazy to follow the axle. Edit: Or you can just do a V drive to solve engine location and driveshaft length.
Rich I was thinking about a solution today after I watched your video. Check out a gas golf cart. The motor and rear are mounted together so there is no change of angle from the motor to the rear end. At the front of the motor it is on a pivot. This concept should work perfectly for your application.
Brooo... mount the engine dead center and raise it up. Mount a jackshaft underneath the engine with the correct alignment to the 8.8. You can then use a chain drive to the jackshaft, which will allow you to use sprockets to reduce the gearing. This way you will add torque multiplication to the engine while also reducing the chance of busting the Hayabusa transmission case.
I am an old man, at my 71 years of age you left me glued to your project, I can't wait for this outstanding and impressive heart wrenching project done, I wish with all my heart to see it in person, more than that to be there with you guys CONGRATULATIONS,, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico, Jesus Torres, please, please don't let me waiting.
Hawk machine co makes adapters to replace the sprocket and convert it into a drift shaft flange. Its a popular thing for legends race cars and a few other classes. I would hit up hawk and get the adapter you need they will have it. As for the shifter im certain you guys can make something to change the gears up and down as needed. Hyabusa uses a hydraulic clutch so that shouldn't be too bad to figure out either. Im excited to see this project! And im a vw guy!
I used a Hawk adapter on a R1-swapped vehicle I had. They work great. Mine kept vibrating the driveshaft flange bolts loose so make sure you use nylocks or some loctite or something of that nature
I also have a hawk adapter on my gsxr600 srad engine in my MG Midget. Plus they're fairly cheap and solves that issue. They also have other parts for installing motorcycle engines into four wheeled applications.
Simple solution. Have the sprocket drive a chain that goes straight up and down, or at an angle if you want to reposition the engine side to side. Make the drives shaft go straight forward and back, held up by a carrier bearing at the front end. Put another sprocket at the front end of the driveshaft.
Hey Rich! You need to talk to your guy about cutting from underneath on that bed without safety glasses. About 30 years ago a had a 71 Cutlass that had a rusty gas line it was leaking. I had to splice it with some rubber line. I didn't have any safety glasses, i was broke down in the middle of nowhere. Back then we didn't have cell phones. I got metal in my right eye. I had to have surgery to get it all out! They do that so you can see the drill going into your eye! No joke! Not something i would wish on anyone! BTW i would love to do something like this. But my engine swapping days are over.
A few suggestions.mounting the diff obove the leaf spring would give you a far better drive shaft geometry and to motor wouldn't need to go down as far.as for the driveshaft itself machine the sprocket down to accept a jackshaft with a bearing and flange that you can bolt a flat faced uni joint on.with the gear shifter use rose joints and rods with a L shaped pivot on the engine to correct the shift direction.well that's my idea anyway hope this helps the process
😂😂 The subtle way Rich said that him and Mike also like many of the same other things and then focuses on the girl friend. Classic 😂😂 . Gotta love those girls from the Mt. Caucus Region
I was surprised when you started talking about lining the output and input up with each other. I thought you were going to mount the engine further back (helping with traction) and replace the yoke on the differential with a sprocket and run it chain drive. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out.
Ya'll are real dudes. Pulling, his engine out and sending it too you, REAL DUDE! You getting the engine, putting it directly into your caddy, REAL DUDE!!!!! YO THIS IS AWESOME!!!!!
My approach would be to build the drive train into a sub frame known to match the chassis rails dimensions. Doing it that way allows adjustments to be made prior to installation and simplifies overall assembly. The sub frame would then be isolated from the chassis with rubber mounts to reduce resonance.
Take off the gear. It will expose the rod with splines on it. You can fit a adapter on that. That will fit an axle. The gear (inside) has that spine. So it has to be rounded, then welded into the axle. A machine shop can do that.
chain and jack shaft design for the drive train. make the lower sprocket a few size bigger to start to make sure have good torque. then from there can change chain size and sprocket sizes for torque vs speed. I've wanted to put a busa motor in a miata for while LOL. and have given lots thoughts to how i would make the drive train. shaft is a lot strain on your cycle engine. the chain helps create a weak point to keep from destroying the motor in down shifting and etc. but there is a few trans boxes out there can get that are 1 to 1. and gives a 12 in drop. and use shafts. but they will be small shafts i bet.
I had a mint, non-rusty '82 caddy. It came from Oregon, of all places. 1.7 litre gas engine. Installed a 5-speed from a diesel. It only got 23 mpg, but would easily do 75+ mph. I sold it after I fixed everything wrong with it. The next owner completely restored the truck from that point and really had it looking nice. Then a Silverado t-boned him and totaled it.
I would put more effort into the rear end setup and tub the rear to accommodate for wider tyres. Sheet in the "front" engine bay with fuel tank in the bottom of it. Putting another motor in the front of it, sorta steals the original lustre of the Hayabusa/rear drive swap. Perhaps an early model Corolla or something would be abetter candidate for the differential so the centre is physically smaller allowing more room for a more functional driveshaft with a better range of angle. Or mount it east west and run a big sprocket, chain and axle. Like the Minis in the UK!
Make a Jackshaft and run the chain from the engine to the solid mounted transfer case. Then you can mount the engine higher and get the angles that you need. You and easily make a sprocket mount to the input shaft on the transfer case. You can also make an electric motor run on the same gears between the transfer case and the engine, you can also include a tensioner system. Run a separate chain off of the jackshaft to the electric motor. This electric motor can be used to achieve reverse, and you can use the truck in a real-world application more practically.
First off, love the project as something to do for the sake of something to do. That said, "400 horsepower, which I think is all we need for now," made me lol. I guess I'm used to people saying that growing up in the rural midwest. We had/have from humble pony cars up to rich farmer/doctor super cars that are just guys bragging about numbers that are only tangible on a dyno slip, lmao. There are a lot of small FWD cars that make really fun and easy to use rally cars for beginners and up. There's nothing wrong with it, just don't push more power for the sake of claiming power, and instead push what you need and focus on handling. You don't have to throw away all FWD's as terrible if you're just getting into cars. I RWD converted a 97 ST204 Celica with a 4.0L 1GR V6 + Turbo that's insanely fun, but I've also been having a lot of fun with the random 09 Eclipse GT I picked up randomly as a FWD to mess with (most ST204's are literal junk at this point or imported GT-Four's for 30grand too much).
Westfield cars in the UK sold a kit known as the "MAGEBUSA" where a GSXR1300 engine is mounted longitudinally in Lotus 7 chassis. Drive is by replacing the chain sprocket with flanged hub mating to a two piece tailshaft. Having this much drive line room would allow easy fitment of a reversing gearbox also. Personally I believe mounting the engine in the bed of the Rabbit is going to create way too many headaches.
I thought you'd put the rear on top of the leafsprings in the first place since the original axle was like a trailer drop axle. The frame is nice to have but the part where it has leaf springs makes it so much easier. And they make adapters that replace the sprocket to use a driveshaft.
You could find a front axle, low pinion and flip it to the rear. That would gain you a few inches. You could then tilt the engine back some and use a double cardon joint driveshaft. Have no angle between the pinion and driveshaft and have all the angle taken up by the double cardon. Tom wood’s driveshaft shop should be able to make you one
You and Robotcantina should collaborate on an engine swap project. He is very good at engineering solutions to combine weird engine/transmission combinations. He put a Kubota diesel in a Saturn and turboed it and kept the stock transmission. He just started another project where he has a Predator 670 in a old Renault car and figured out a way to use the stock transmission and clutch and mate it to the go cart style output clutch from the 670.
Use the Ford Ranger frame transmission and drivetrain. Mount the engine under the hood build a transmission input shaft pilot bearing support used chain drive from Hayabusa to transmission input shaft, leave Hayabusa engine in first gear and use the Ranger transmission to do the shifting. You would also have multiple gear ratio options and reverse. There's more than one way to skin a cat!
Richard Farley is the creator of dwarf race cars. I see them all the time and it looks like the Dwarf Cars use a output shaft U-joint collar (for the drive line) to rear axle adaptor. I don't know what they call it, but there is a lot of Dwarf cars for sale. Call them and they can send you to the right place to get one. They have some supper fast Dwarf Car Racing series of Texas. They scream! I hope this helps but it's past my bed time for this old man. Keep building Rich!
Super cool project!! Really looking forward to following the journey, and it'd blow minds if you could make it all wheel drive with the electric motor, being able to match the rpm of the Hayabusa!! The fun that would create is unimaginable!! Keep it up Rich, and please drop us an update on StevON
Why have the engine in the back? Keep it 2wd and stick the engine up front, gives you more DS length to work with. Dunno Rich, I think 2wd will be fun enough. That trans won’t hold up to 4wd burnouts (attempts), but 2wd maybe. Either way sir, it’s gunna be crazy. Use the exhaust cutouts to maybe hide the engine swap :)
The spinny parts can be connected by a chain, like they are on a bike. You don't need to jigger shafts to line shit up. For bonus points, mount the engine on an A-frame above the cab with a very very long chain loop. You can also do 4wd easily, there's a spinny sprockety thing in the middle and you just use unmodified Ford bits in front too. I am an engineer, you can trust me.
This is just an opinion. I dabble in 1/8 RC cars and most have a single engine that drives a gear that mated to a transfer case that runs axles to the front and rear differential. Instead of a direct link axle, I would try out something like that is it were me. It would give you 4WD. You would just need a front differential, some custom axles, and a transfer case that could source from say a Ford Ranger.
I would have chosen to go with an IRS to avoid the pinion angle problems. Little more money but it would be a track monster. You may also run into problems with the thrust force on the transmission output - do you need to use that trans? A transaxle setup would solve all these problems
Hi Rich, maybe a different rear end or modify one to spacing you need. There are tons of offset ones that you could look into either early Jeep cj5, cj7 or Toyota fj60. they have right hand offset third members Dana 20, 30, 44. Even early Dodge 4x4 has passenger Side offset. It would be easy enough to modify existing axle you have as well to give more offset. Might help solve a few problems. It would center engine better and would give space to drop engine lower between frame rails. Thanks for all that you and the crew do! Your creativity is infectious! Thanks,Randy
The bottom of that oil pan should be level with the ground. Make sure to figure out a sump solution or a different oil pan. With the motor sideways like that, the pickup will have a hard time doing it's job
should take a boat reversal drive to drop the drive shaft down to align with the rear axle. you'll need to flip the motor around which will help get the turbo out of the corner and maybe allow you to re-center the motor a bit off the driverside for better weight distribution. do a simple 1:1 drive in the box so it keeps the math easy for the final drive. Stubby bob from roadkill is a good example of it working.
Look into superfast matt's shifter design for his motorcycle engine powered s600. It seems relatively simple and doable, and I think the shifter-mounted clutch is really cool
agreed
What about a off set rear axle?
I checked the comments to be sure I wasn't redundant. This is definitely the correct answer. Probably find solutions to several issues there.
Yeah that's a great vid
@@constantinejosephides3312 Was thinking same thing once I saw line up problem.
I love when the motor is worth more than the whole vehicle it's going into, as well as all the labor and parts needed for mounting it.
Now THAT’S CUSTOMIZING!!! Like the time I dropped a nearly-new 300ZX Twin-turbo motor, 6speed manual and corvette rear end in my 1990 Nissan pickup…. What fun!
@@JasonMcCord-qk3ybyou have any pics online of the build? would like to see more info about it
in america probaly the hayabusa motor its worth more than teh pick up..... but in EU the pick its worth around 15 20k golf mk1 caddy adn the motorbike its worth around 8-12k
@@sergiofreitas1676 this vw isnt for eu market
I think Id just lower the engine some more by building an engine cradle and put a skid plate under it-I mean the rear diff rocks down that low so having the engine closer to the ground might not be a bad idea. An electric drive unit in the front is another genius idea by Rich, I'm here for it
I put a bike engine (R1) in my Lotus 7 replica. Even used a Ranger axle (though a 7.5 due to weight and space). FYI you can easily adapt SN95 Mustang rear disc brakes to that if you want.
For the shifter cable, definitely a push pull cable. So much easier to route. I got mine from controlcables (along with my throttle and ebrake cables). It feels very solid and you can even mount a quickshifter strain sensor to it.
For the driveshaft adapter, a steel 1310 adapter from DRchassis is the way to go. Double cardan ujoints will help with the angle. At least the pinion is offset in the right direction on that thing.
Do you plan on having a reverse? You could do a chain drive to a reverse box and then driveshaft to the axle. If you get creative, you could even do a chain to the input of the reverse box, then driveshafts to front and rear (if you have a way to unlock the front hubs). You can also check out the rear ends from Elite Racing Transmissions. They even have one with a built in reverse. Too rich for my blood but super cool.
Mind sharing some knowledge? I've got a 2018 x10r that was totaled. Motor and everything still good. Have a 66 triumph spitfire all gutted to the frame and solid body panels all around. Was thinking of mounting it up front and using a differential adapter to run a shaft for the read end. Mechanically making that all work I'm more than comfortable with. But what do I do with all the wiring and sensors? Do I use the same cluster? Make my own? Haha I'm nervous!
You could run a chain from the transmission to an output shaft similar to how a portal axle works and have that run to the rear diff. Then you could even center the motor as you wish.
A portal axle might be a good solution, if Rich can solve the sprocket to axle shaft problem.
Jag IRS
Exactly.. Build a simple jack shaft down low, that is more inline with the diff and can mount your drive shaft to; which will have a sprocket right behind it. Then you can mount your engine in the most ideal place, rather than being forced to make it hang so low.
Vehicles on portal axles are usually slow mostly used for off-road that is why i do believe what Ritch really need is the expertise on this project of someone who is working in a factory that produce drive-shafts ..
@@poplaurentiu4148 I'm not saying use portal axles of course. Same principles as any transfer case like those in every Jeep and 4WD truck. Just pointed backwards instead of forwards.
There should be more pickup trucks of this size!
Would love an electric pickup like this.
Enjoying the content as always, really missing Steven on the show though. Hope he is well and we at least get an update on him since we havent heard anything from him or about him since the crash.
taking a break from cars for sure
I was thinking the EXACT same thing while watching this episode
Everyone needs to get a clue. Think about how long it's been and Rich hasn't so much as mentioned him. HE IS SUING RICH. IT'S THAT SIMPLE.
He did mention Stevon in a short clip that was published on 23rd of April. Said he was bumped and bruised but fine. The video was made private though
@@Alias1431Yep.
Heavy metal and flipflops, metal sawzall cutting overhead and no safety glasses. These guys are the bravest men on the internet.
Yeah 30 years ago I had to go through surgery on my eyes for that! Not by choice either! I was broke down out in the middle of nowhere had no way to get safety glasses. Not fun.
You could do axle over leaf springs to retain ride height and ground clearance for the engine. And I would personally make a flange for the output of the Hayabusa transmission an fab small slip yoke drive shaft
Seriously l. I was yelling at the TV. It's obvious since the original axle has the hubs offset well above the axle tube itself. So yeah axle on top of spring is the way to go. I really hope they didn't hack it up already.
Undercutting the gears is totally worth it. My old ZX6 was bulletproof after undercutting.
@@mochunksame here! It was spring under the axles from factory. They mocked it up spring over the axle!! Hopefully they figured it out.
So.California mini truck 101. Axle OVER leaf springs.... Line up perfectly.
I get the no mods solid axle on factory leaf springs -- but with such a short driveshaft the rear suspension movement should be next to nothing which would be annoying for driving. Why not IRS ? More fabrication needed, leaf springs for trashcan, but no problem with a proper suspension and diff in one position
The factory diesels in those things are BEASTLY with a handful of mods, there was one around here about 30 years ago that was making 60+ psi and was always out on the salt flats doing stupid fast pulls. It was owned by one of the owners of M&H tire (the drag radial tire company)
Using a flip kit on the rear diff would help a lot!
Turn the diff over and place it on the top of the springs May make it closer
Spring under was exactly what I was thinking. Then they really wouldn't have to lower the engine more.
Glad I wasn't the only one watching like "but why wouldn't go axle over" until he finally said it
Simple fix for your driveline problem is a jack shaft, similar to an open chain drive drop box.
This is basically a shaft supported by bearings with a chain sprocket that is driven from the sprocket from the original engine/transmission. Then a flange on said shaft appropriate to accept the drive shaft that drives the rear differential.
This also has several benefits to it as well. You’ll be able to set your engine centred if you choose, simple ratio changes without touching the rear differential and if you choose to you could also have a front output to then have all wheel drive.
You could also have a gear driven sealed drop box/transfer case. It would be stronger and safer but also heavier, substantially more expensive and not as quick/easy to play with gear ratio changes.
that guy trying to say stevons 'what a hole' line from home alone made me sad
Yeah.. channel was much better for having him, sad to see him go.
Do u know why he left?
@@doubble80 no, I presume it was personal reasons after the accident, but I've got no clue, was hoping someone did.
@@PhiTonics ya maybe legal reasons. Maybe once its all over he will return.
No it wasn’t better lmao, he sucked. Such a try hard
Use a chain to make a dropbox so the output shaft can be anywhere you want independently of the engine placement and you get to make your own adapters as well!
Monstertrucks usually do that
I was thinking the same thing, now I have to go delete my comment 😂
Or just mount the rear end on TOP of the leaf springs instead of mounting it on the BOTTOM of the leaf springs.
I would have gone the boring TDI route. That being said I approve of the Hayabusa engine. It feels like the most uncle Rich way to go 😂👍
Facts
You need to check driveline angles with the suspension fully loaded. You want equal but opposite in the 1-3 degree range. You will probably need to get stiffer springs or add slapper bars for spring wrap under load. Also gonna need to rotate the turbo center section so the drain is facing down.
my idea is if it's gonna be a hybrid as you imply, toss the batteries behind the engine, that way you have more weight over the rear end. and regarding the pinion angle, if you guys are already fabbing mounts anyways, just tilt both the engine and diff a little so the angle isn't as aggressive. aside from that i'm sure you guys know more than i do so do your thing, and i'm waiting to see how this turns out, the future is looking good here
Tilting the engine would require a deeper sump and pick up tube or a dry sump system.
Idk if you saw a TikTok of two dudes driving a pickup backwards (they are literally sitting looking at the back) and I just would love to see you build something weird like that!!! Also missing Steve like everyone 😊
Could you make a driveshaft that runs under the bike engine with a support bearing at the front and then run a chain down to the driveshaft?
That’s what I thought, and turn the engine around too. Plus it would be higher up and centered, looking better.
Like a drop down transfer case but external
@@tommallinson619 right. If it was a bigger truck you could use a boat V-Drive, a chain will work and, ahem, more in keeping with a Rich build
That is how they do the mini-cooper Hayabusa swaps. Sketchy but works.
2000's Chrysler/Dodge minivan AWD rearend. It has a solid beam axle on leaf springs like the Volkswagen, but a differential bolted to the chassis, with half shafts connecting the differential to the wheel hubs.
I really miss Stevon
So many of us are clicking sooner to see if he came back, he's sitting off camera until the analytics boost runs it's course.
It's been months, long enough that new subs have found this channel and don't know he existed. They'll have the privilege to get to know the channel in the same way as Rich's earliest pre-whistlehippy subscribers did. And then he will return. And everyone will be on the same page. The holy trinity, uncle Rich, the whistle hippy and the thick Boston chick will redeem us.
Sounds like you guys should connect with the Grind Hard guys about how to connect the sprocket to the rear axle. I feel like their builds have had to utilize unique coupling systems to work out, worth a shot to ask!
Def a good idea grind hard plumbing guys know there stuff with small driveshafts and putting bike engines in anything
Use a jackshaft. They are designed for this purpose. You can use 1:1 gearing or modify sprockets as needed
as some one who owns a VW MK1 2007 caddy sport, just to add, that the rabbit (still the same car-ish) is made very diff compeared towords the "traditional" mk1 caddy (whit duel/singelar rounded headlights dependant on model, and a fiberglass/metal body),(and yes i know the original design not production model was not round headlighted), the "traditional" mk1 caddy mostly came whit a 1,6 4 cil engine, and most people who would engine swap the car would HIGHLY be a VW VR6, it,s just sad to see alot of peaople miss-understand the golf community :(
Another thought, to help reduce shock load when shifting into gear and isolate vibrations there are several solutions used in marine applications. They have a bunch of different styles of shaft couplings that do what your looking for. Poly flex flexible shaft coupler is a style that could work. Take care, Randy
good looks Bobandy
Get a hold of a local Dwarf/Modlite/Legends race supplier. They will have the coupler you need to make a drive shaft work. Also if you wanted to shift the engine more to the center you can get a rear end from one of those cars also. They are narrow and the diff is to the right.
Also, for the transmission, I would look into back cut gears but the biggest issue is the output shaft. The guy may have already installed one but a billet shaft is a must. I have broken two stock ones on a bike before that came out with the billet one. And while it's apart the shift forks need to be be replaced with stronger ones. Buy once, cry once. A.P.E. is a good source for any parts you need.
Do a chain drive, then you can place the motor higher, and just stick a sprocket on the end of a drive shaft. You could even center the motor for better weight distribution.
Actually why not? (It would solve a hell of a lot of transmission alignment problems too). Good shout Unc, I’m with you bud..
@@philtucker1224 It would even allow the gearing to be changed on the fly with different sprockets.
Probably to much weight for chain
@@waimeagavin808 1700 lbs isn't too bad, only one way to find out!
@@waimeagavin808 yes that’s a thought. -will need a strong prop for 200+ bhp…
9:13 I'm so glad Rich knows what true comfort is. That's why I trust this channel.
Out of curiosity, why cant the engine go under the hood so you have more length of the driveshaft to get the angles right?
Because then it wouldn't look "cool" lol
Love the classic Saab aero wheels on this, it somehow works well together
That thing is so stinking cool rich. Im a huge fan of those rabbit pick ups. I was so hoping you would do something cool and original to this particular vehicle and you never let me down. Great job!! And please if u ever feel like selling this or get bored of it plz let us know
I was thinking the same thing should do a giveaway. I think dude wants his engine back tho lol
@@kevingross6789 i bet your right. I wasn’t even thinking of the fact that it is a borrowed motor
I have done this before, bring the engine back so the sprocket is above the difs output, and run a 1.4:2 sprocket chain drive (approximate gearing), this will remove most of the gearbox/clutch shock problems, and put more weight over the rear wheels where it's needed, also, it means you don't need a prop shaft, or run a shaft like a jackshaft.
The other way you can do it is to run a jackshaft from the dif, (UJ-jackshaft-UJ) with a sprocket aligning with the engine's sprocket as you have the engine now, but this will mean you will need to fabricate outriggers to hold it, along with the outriggers to the engine mounts.
Also, for the gear shift, just run a cable like on an outboard motor. A single "Morse control" would work.
And if you do need loads of articulation, look into "Rzeppa joints"
Definitely need to get in touch with superfast Matt on bike swaps
Starting with 4 minutes+ monologue holly bananas!
You just need a dropbox (uses a chain to essentially lower the output shaft). This can also be equipped with the proper spline for a driveshaft.
Chain drive Jack shaft....two piece driveshaft (with a carrier bearing and a flange for a sprocket) then there is even the possibility of gearing options.
y'all can place the engine more to the center to drive a jack shaft with pillar block bearings. send the shaft forward and use a longer drive shaft to a uni with three more pillar block bearings using another short chain and sprockets. Y'all can alter the ratio with one of the sprockets.
This is such a sweet build man. I love it.
With the rear end on the springs as you suggest, tilt the engine by rotating it clockwise (to drinkers side) along the sprocket axis, then rotate the engine counter clockwise to have the socket face the rear U joint. Rotate the rear axle counter clockwise so that the U joint faces the sprocket. The rear pumpkin doesn't have to be level to the ground and I doubt the angle would be that severe to hamper lubing it. Using the method would greatly reduce the complexity of joining the 2. Just need to make sure the backwards tilt of the engine isn't too much to prevent proper lubrication. That's the method I'd use to pull this off.
the older jeep wrangler transfer case should work perfectly. also they make gearing kits for them
I'd order&adapt a Smart-Hayabusa swap kit, burnouts are a lot more entertaining than breakdowns
Can we get an update on Stevon? How’s he holding up?
anyone know his socials?
I was just combing through the comments and about to say this is the first week no one mentioned Stevon, and then I found this comment. Steadfast, keeping the faith, holding that candle in the rain. For the first few months I wondered if maybe Rich was watching the comments and analytics, and comparing the difference. I know I clicked in to the mystery, watching Rich Rebuilds videos closer to release, just curious about an update. Before, I enjoyed the chemistry, the jokes, the trio, Rich, the hippy and the chick. When it seemed there was a possible secret split, I searched the web, I wonder how many weeks Rich Rebuilds trended on search queries, how many of us that watched casually - binging 3 or 4 videos every couple months - came back to watch through. And by the comments, how many scrutinized segments such as the rivian helmet drive scene, repeat watching bits. What I'm getting at is, maybe he's on the shelf until we stop searching. I dig the throwback vibe to the old old days of the channel. But damn do I miss the whistle.
His lawsuit against Rich is ongoing.
@@AJNpa80Jeez, get a life bro
I guess the joke didn't hit Mr. Youself
In the volkswagen community we salute the mods! So chop it up, roll it hard!
Maybe just run a chain down to the driveline? Wold need to mount the front of the driveline to a big bearing that could move up and down to adjust chain tension. Would also allow you to offset the motor from the driveline.
Have done this swap like a million time....in my head. And every time I decided IRS was the way to go, but always hated the idea of having to build out strut towers and cutting up the truck bed even more. Will have to do more daydreaming to get it all noodled out, but I think you can use a corvette rear out of any year that had the carriage spring that goes side to side, so like C3-C5 I think? Then just put the shocks wherever and you can run a driveshaft that isn't short and has to jump around like crazy to follow the axle. Edit: Or you can just do a V drive to solve engine location and driveshaft length.
Rich, Could you use a fwd axle from an AWD car or truck? The differental would then be offset. Would it be turning backwards also?
Landrover had a rear diff with one short and one long axle too, making them ideal for the rear of that beast.
Rich I was thinking about a solution today after I watched your video. Check out a gas golf cart. The motor and rear are mounted together so there is no change of angle from the motor to the rear end. At the front of the motor it is on a pivot. This concept should work perfectly for your application.
R.I.P. Stevon
Brooo... mount the engine dead center and raise it up. Mount a jackshaft underneath the engine with the correct alignment to the 8.8. You can then use a chain drive to the jackshaft, which will allow you to use sprockets to reduce the gearing. This way you will add torque multiplication to the engine while also reducing the chance of busting the Hayabusa transmission case.
Finally someone with a brain turns the motorcycle engine 90degrees and does things the smart way! LOVE LOVE LOVE
I am an old man, at my 71 years of age you left me glued to your project, I can't wait for this outstanding and impressive heart wrenching project done, I wish with all my heart to see it in person, more than that to be there with you guys CONGRATULATIONS,, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico, Jesus Torres, please, please don't let me waiting.
Hawk machine co makes adapters to replace the sprocket and convert it into a drift shaft flange. Its a popular thing for legends race cars and a few other classes. I would hit up hawk and get the adapter you need they will have it. As for the shifter im certain you guys can make something to change the gears up and down as needed. Hyabusa uses a hydraulic clutch so that shouldn't be too bad to figure out either. Im excited to see this project! And im a vw guy!
I used a Hawk adapter on a R1-swapped vehicle I had. They work great. Mine kept vibrating the driveshaft flange bolts loose so make sure you use nylocks or some loctite or something of that nature
I also have a hawk adapter on my gsxr600 srad engine in my MG Midget. Plus they're fairly cheap and solves that issue. They also have other parts for installing motorcycle engines into four wheeled applications.
Simple solution. Have the sprocket drive a chain that goes straight up and down, or at an angle if you want to reposition the engine side to side. Make the drives shaft go straight forward and back, held up by a carrier bearing at the front end. Put another sprocket at the front end of the driveshaft.
Rich, where is Steve? Have not see his since the accident
For the shifter, just get a shift cable out of pretty much any front wheel drive, and make some brackets.
we need stevan back, this content feels lacking
You’ll be surprised how forgiving cable shifters are, it actually feels pretty good shifting a bike box via cables
Rip Stevon 🙏😔
Hey Rich! You need to talk to your guy about cutting from underneath on that bed without safety glasses.
About 30 years ago a had a 71 Cutlass that had a rusty gas line it was leaking. I had to splice it with some rubber line. I didn't have any safety glasses, i was broke down in the middle of nowhere.
Back then we didn't have cell phones. I got metal in my right eye. I had to have surgery to get it all out! They do that so you can see the drill going into your eye! No joke! Not something i would wish on anyone!
BTW i would love to do something like this. But my engine swapping days are over.
what happened to steven?
A few suggestions.mounting the diff obove the leaf spring would give you a far better drive shaft geometry and to motor wouldn't need to go down as far.as for the driveshaft itself machine the sprocket down to accept a jackshaft with a bearing and flange that you can bolt a flat faced uni joint on.with the gear shifter use rose joints and rods with a L shaped pivot on the engine to correct the shift direction.well that's my idea anyway hope this helps the process
No matter how you do it I'm a fan of your chanal keep up the great content
I was thinking the same thing.
STEVE ONNNN
😂😂 The subtle way Rich said that him and Mike also like many of the same other things and then focuses on the girl friend. Classic 😂😂 . Gotta love those girls from the Mt. Caucus Region
When is Steeeevon’s mom gonna let him play with you again?
I was surprised when you started talking about lining the output and input up with each other. I thought you were going to mount the engine further back (helping with traction) and replace the yoke on the differential with a sprocket and run it chain drive. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out.
Ya'll are real dudes. Pulling, his engine out and sending it too you, REAL DUDE! You getting the engine, putting it directly into your caddy, REAL DUDE!!!!! YO THIS IS AWESOME!!!!!
When a UA-camr says there will be a link in the description, don't bother looking; you won't find one.
I had one of those.. 1.6 diesel.. it felt swifter than it was, but i loved it! Rust killed it in the end!
My approach would be to build the drive train into a sub frame known to match the chassis rails dimensions. Doing it that way allows adjustments to be made prior to installation and simplifies overall assembly. The sub frame would then be isolated from the chassis with rubber mounts to reduce resonance.
Take off the gear. It will expose the rod with splines on it. You can fit a adapter on that. That will fit an axle. The gear (inside) has that spine. So it has to be rounded, then welded into the axle. A machine shop can do that.
Another vote for jackshaft, it opens up motor mounting options
chain and jack shaft design for the drive train. make the lower sprocket a few size bigger to start to make sure have good torque. then from there can change chain size and sprocket sizes for torque vs speed. I've wanted to put a busa motor in a miata for while LOL. and have given lots thoughts to how i would make the drive train. shaft is a lot strain on your cycle engine. the chain helps create a weak point to keep from destroying the motor in down shifting and etc.
but there is a few trans boxes out there can get that are 1 to 1. and gives a 12 in drop. and use shafts. but they will be small shafts i bet.
I'm a vw nerd, and can absolutely say we are a different breed. But this swap is fucking cool lol
I had a mint, non-rusty '82 caddy. It came from Oregon, of all places. 1.7 litre gas engine. Installed a 5-speed from a diesel. It only got 23 mpg, but would easily do 75+ mph.
I sold it after I fixed everything wrong with it. The next owner completely restored the truck from that point and really had it looking nice. Then a Silverado t-boned him and totaled it.
I would put more effort into the rear end setup and tub the rear to accommodate for wider tyres.
Sheet in the "front" engine bay with fuel tank in the bottom of it.
Putting another motor in the front of it, sorta steals the original lustre of the Hayabusa/rear drive swap. Perhaps an early model Corolla or something would be abetter candidate for the differential so the centre is physically smaller allowing more room for a more functional driveshaft with a better range of angle.
Or mount it east west and run a big sprocket, chain and axle. Like the Minis in the UK!
Make a Jackshaft and run the chain from the engine to the solid mounted transfer case. Then you can mount the engine higher and get the angles that you need. You and easily make a sprocket mount to the input shaft on the transfer case. You can also make an electric motor run on the same gears between the transfer case and the engine, you can also include a tensioner system. Run a separate chain off of the jackshaft to the electric motor. This electric motor can be used to achieve reverse, and you can use the truck in a real-world application more practically.
First off, love the project as something to do for the sake of something to do. That said, "400 horsepower, which I think is all we need for now," made me lol. I guess I'm used to people saying that growing up in the rural midwest. We had/have from humble pony cars up to rich farmer/doctor super cars that are just guys bragging about numbers that are only tangible on a dyno slip, lmao.
There are a lot of small FWD cars that make really fun and easy to use rally cars for beginners and up. There's nothing wrong with it, just don't push more power for the sake of claiming power, and instead push what you need and focus on handling. You don't have to throw away all FWD's as terrible if you're just getting into cars. I RWD converted a 97 ST204 Celica with a 4.0L 1GR V6 + Turbo that's insanely fun, but I've also been having a lot of fun with the random 09 Eclipse GT I picked up randomly as a FWD to mess with (most ST204's are literal junk at this point or imported GT-Four's for 30grand too much).
Westfield cars in the UK sold a kit known as the "MAGEBUSA" where a GSXR1300 engine is mounted longitudinally in Lotus 7 chassis.
Drive is by replacing the chain sprocket with flanged hub mating to a two piece tailshaft. Having this much drive line room would allow easy fitment of a reversing gearbox also.
Personally I believe mounting the engine in the bed of the Rabbit is going to create way too many headaches.
To help with the alignment on the rear diff to the sprocket could you possibly use a jack shaft and keep the engine mounted higher up in the bed
I thought you'd put the rear on top of the leafsprings in the first place since the original axle was like a trailer drop axle. The frame is nice to have but the part where it has leaf springs makes it so much easier. And they make adapters that replace the sprocket to use a driveshaft.
You could find a front axle, low pinion and flip it to the rear. That would gain you a few inches. You could then tilt the engine back some and use a double cardon joint driveshaft. Have no angle between the pinion and driveshaft and have all the angle taken up by the double cardon. Tom wood’s driveshaft shop should be able to make you one
Uncle Rich and his saw zaw always making cool stuff.
What.. an All wheel drive, Hayabusa powered Vw Caddy i love these kinda builds.. starts off small then end up being a monster 🔥👍💯
There's no reason to have it centered, take a wider rest axle and offset the center.
That would allow you to move the weight of the motor over.
You and Robotcantina should collaborate on an engine swap project. He is very good at engineering solutions to combine weird engine/transmission combinations. He put a Kubota diesel in a Saturn and turboed it and kept the stock transmission. He just started another project where he has a Predator 670 in a old Renault car and figured out a way to use the stock transmission and clutch and mate it to the go cart style output clutch from the 670.
Use the Ford Ranger frame transmission and drivetrain. Mount the engine under the hood build a transmission input shaft pilot bearing support used chain drive from Hayabusa to transmission input shaft, leave Hayabusa engine in first gear and use the Ranger transmission to do the shifting. You would also have multiple gear ratio options and reverse. There's more than one way to skin a cat!
Richard Farley is the creator of dwarf race cars. I see them all the time and it looks like the Dwarf Cars use a output shaft U-joint collar (for the drive line) to rear axle adaptor. I don't know what they call it, but there is a lot of Dwarf cars for sale. Call them and they can send you to the right place to get one. They have some supper fast Dwarf Car Racing series of Texas. They scream! I hope this helps but it's past my bed time for this old man. Keep building Rich!
I'd just make a rear axle with a sprocket. That way the motor would be more in line and you could make easy rear end gear changes.
This build is going to be Epic! Great idea with the electric motor up front 👌🏾🔥
Super cool project!! Really looking forward to following the journey, and it'd blow minds if you could make it all wheel drive with the electric motor, being able to match the rpm of the Hayabusa!! The fun that would create is unimaginable!! Keep it up Rich, and please drop us an update on StevON
Flip the leaf springs upside down. Lowers the truck and gives you the clearance you need to mount the drive shaft
Why have the engine in the back? Keep it 2wd and stick the engine up front, gives you more DS length to work with. Dunno Rich, I think 2wd will be fun enough. That trans won’t hold up to 4wd burnouts (attempts), but 2wd maybe. Either way sir, it’s gunna be crazy. Use the exhaust cutouts to maybe hide the engine swap :)
Hmmmm, gonna drive the front wheels with an electric motor? Little hybrid action on the channel? Love it!!!
The spinny parts can be connected by a chain, like they are on a bike. You don't need to jigger shafts to line shit up.
For bonus points, mount the engine on an A-frame above the cab with a very very long chain loop.
You can also do 4wd easily, there's a spinny sprockety thing in the middle and you just use unmodified Ford bits in front too.
I am an engineer, you can trust me.
This is just an opinion. I dabble in 1/8 RC cars and most have a single engine that drives a gear that mated to a transfer case that runs axles to the front and rear differential. Instead of a direct link axle, I would try out something like that is it were me. It would give you 4WD. You would just need a front differential, some custom axles, and a transfer case that could source from say a Ford Ranger.
I would have chosen to go with an IRS to avoid the pinion angle problems. Little more money but it would be a track monster.
You may also run into problems with the thrust force on the transmission output - do you need to use that trans? A transaxle setup would solve all these problems
Hi Rich, maybe a different rear end or modify one to spacing you need. There are tons of offset ones that you could look into either early Jeep cj5, cj7 or Toyota fj60. they have right hand offset third members Dana 20, 30, 44. Even early Dodge 4x4 has passenger Side offset. It would be easy enough to modify existing axle you have as well to give more offset. Might help solve a few problems. It would center engine better and would give space to drop engine lower between frame rails. Thanks for all that you and the crew do! Your creativity is infectious! Thanks,Randy
The bottom of that oil pan should be level with the ground. Make sure to figure out a sump solution or a different oil pan. With the motor sideways like that, the pickup will have a hard time doing it's job
Im pretty sure you can just machine an adapter for the drive shaft. Should take like 5 min, and cost like $10.
Those wobble drilled Saab wheels are terrifying. 4x114.3 down to 4x100. They DO look really good tho.
should take a boat reversal drive to drop the drive shaft down to align with the rear axle. you'll need to flip the motor around which will help get the turbo out of the corner and maybe allow you to re-center the motor a bit off the driverside for better weight distribution. do a simple 1:1 drive in the box so it keeps the math easy for the final drive. Stubby bob from roadkill is a good example of it working.