Love the commentary! Hey I watched another video of same repair. Guy removed clear shield and bulbs but rather than taking it all out, he used a flat blade to depress those difficult tabs. Just reach around behind it. It's held in place and much easier that on a table. Cheers.
Thanks very much! We bought the Whirlpool version and I'm having thermistor problems. I was worried about breaking the light shield and control housing and you "saved my bacon"! You have a new subscriber! Thanks again. Same clearance problems here. Thank the EPA for the lower durability because of their energy use regulations.
Thanks for your video I have a jenn air jazz bord was replaced 14 months ago paid $400 it stopped working again, I got a new replacement bord from eBay for $80 replaced it flowing you video all good it stated working now
Appreciate the hard work of posting this video. I hope if I were to view your newer videos you would have gotten a little better at framing your shots. There were a number of time key things were just outside the frame. Also pulling the whole unit out of the top would have been nice to see done. We did see it put back in. Thanks.
I have the Kenmore that I bought brand new in 22/2019 that has the exact control board. I bought it from Amazon for $35, and it works again. You save me time & money. Thank you for sharing this knowledge.
we bought a new fridge one year and three weeks ago. It has stopped working with two dash marks where the temp range numbers should be. What is interesting is other then the shape of the housing it looks identical to your older fridge. Best video I have found so far that matches my modern fridge. Thanks
I have an 11 years old Maytag bottom freezer refrigerator and it has broke 4 times. They replaced the computer board last month but couldn't guarantee that it would solve the temperature problems in the fridge. At first it was better and not freezing all my produce in the fridge but then a month later the fridge wasn't working at all and he said there was nothing else I could do and assured me that it wasn't the thermostat. So I just bought a new fridge and went with a GE model this time. Hopefully, it will work better than the Maytag did.
Great vid sorry to hear you left Merill middle I used to be one of ur students glad to see your doing well with your life and the amazing progression on UA-cam
Actually, it isn't. Did he show you how to test circuits? Defrost Thermostat, Thermistor (temperature sensors)? Defrost heater? Did he go through the 8 different diagnostic service test the board can do? Did he put it in forced defrost cto determine if the heater and defrost Thermostat are working?
I have the same fridge. Same exact one. I've already replaced the thermostat. "let's get a new fridge!!" Well- we want counter depth. Our space is 1/4" inch too narrow. So we'd have to move fridge, add another 15A circuit and outlet, remove other cabinets, and do another cabinet build in space where old fridge was... I'd rather replace the control board in near term....
We found out the hard way as we were trying to be proactive and replaced a 30 year old Kenmore that was working fine. We thought it was way past being on borrowed time and replaced it with another Kenmore. One month after the warranty expired the compressor went out. Sears was no help, of course, so we had to buy another one...I’m still kicking myself!!
Thank you @stuntcardriver for this great video. My Kenmore fridge keeps setting both the fridge and the freezer temperature to 7 and I have to try like 50 times to revert it back to 4 by pressing the down arrow (most of the times it will not respond when I press the down arrow) and then at sometime later it will increase it up again to 7 on it's own. I was checking and found the fridge has 2 control boards, the one in the video and there is also another one in the back so I am not sure which one is bad. Do you have any idea? Also do you still have the link for the board you bought? Thanks again for this great video !
I bought the control board from Amazon. www.amazon.com/Tosva-W10503278-Whirlpool-PS11755733-WPW10503278/dp/B07GCM54RW/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Tosva+W10503278+for+Whirlpool+Kenmore+PS11755733+AP6022400+WPW10503278+WPW10503278+Jazz+Board&qid=1628158302&sr=8-3
I've already bought a new part for the fridge, I couldn't for the life of me find out how to perform a forced defrost. The new part I bought replaced a part that wasn't messed up in the beginning, I hope it's not the board but if it is at least I know I can find it cheaper. The local fix it place can get them for $160.
Tech sheet should be under center front stuck in plastic bag. All diagnostics are given. I think forces defrost is done by pushing freezer temp down button 3 times. The chosing S (short defrost) with fresh food up button. Other videos explain
Similar problem here. Bottom was frozen up. I just went through multiple tests via the service menu. Everything tested out fine, but the FD, (Forced Defrost), didn't seem to be happening. Tried it multiple times, and on the 3rd try I heard hissing and cold air started coming back. I'm thinking this jazz board is probably flakey and I'll swap it out
After spending $3,000....Less than 2 years later (right outside the warranty) My family have practically been camping out of ice chests for OVER a month now! The worst part is Whirlpool subcontracts out their service repairs to 3rd party service specialist but the problem is they NEVER showed up after 4X of calling them out. I had to miss out of 4 different days of work. Finally a guy came out NEVER picked up 1 tool. NEVER took ANYTHING apart. I told him i thought it was the control board, he then proceeds to walk over to the fridge and say yep its the control board and wants $500 which i had no issue paying but said the part would take 4-6 weeks before it was delivered due to shipping delays cause of covid plus the company itself is back up several more weeks. I don't think ANYONE really knows what its like to go without a refrigerator for an extended period of time. Anyways the wanna be tech tried to charge me $125 before kicking him out of my house. Then i ordered another control board which took over a week (which i thought was the wrong board but really it was the right one and just needed to be broken in half go figure) Anyways so i ordered another board waited over another week. The 2nd board i installed only to find out my fridge still didn't work so i'm thinking that theres something major going on so i'm researching for another week why dashes are showing on my control board. Then finally tonight i said forget trying to get my refund for the first board i'm gonna try to break it in half (LOL) and install it. Well i did. And FINALLY i heard the compressor come on. I followed the steps in the video step by step and now THANKS YOU my family finally has a fridge. Were no longer camping out of ice chest buying 40LBS of ice a day!!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH YOU MADE MY NIGHT AND I"M GONNA SLEEP LIKE A BABY NOW!!! 🤪🙏🙏🙏 May GOD bless you with an abundance of blessings my friend.
@@stuntcardriver My situation is, no frost on back wall of freezer, fan is working, damper vent is working, but it is still on the warm side in the fresh food top. I lowered the setting to #2 instead of 4 and after all night its at 46 deg. I just found the diagnostic papers behind the kick toe.
@@pstef8936 I recommend setting freezer to 4 and FF to 5 or 6 to achieve desired FF temp - 38°. Test temperature if foid or beverage they had been in there at least 4-8 hours. Air warms as soon as you open the door, needing another 4 hours to cool again.
I can't pull the spec sheet out from the bottom coils. Any suggestions on how to remove the sheets from the plastic envelope? Where can I get the the tech sheets if I can't get them out from the bottom of the refrigerator?
@@davemcguigan218 no, it's because WHIRLPOOL and MAYTAG didn't protect the board better from moisture damage. OFTEN, simply disconnecting and reconnecting the plugs will scrape off corrosion, fixing the REAL PROBLEM
As a pro I can say, this guy doesn't know what he is doing! The jazz boyd is the least likely cause of problems. The connection TO IT could be corroded from moisture. Simple disconnecting and reconnecting often scrapes off the corrosion. Defective $20 defrost Thermostats are the main reason fir poor or no cooling in fresh food section because the frost build-up blocks air flow to the FF section. Uncleaned condenser coil beneath or behind the unit also will make compressor work harder. Free air flow is essential to creating the heat exchange. The defrost heater could be burnt out - not common in WHIRLPOOL/MAYTAG family of BRANDS. COMMON amongst ALL BRANDS is a bad compressor relay or tired compressor. I ALWAYS replace those with a 3-in-one relay, overload and start capacitor - SUPCO #UCRO410 UCRO410RC or equivalent available from any appliance parts store and AMAZON.
The problem was the fridge not defrosting. One of the main causes is the defrost timer. This fridge does not have a seperate defrost timer, the defrost cycle is controlled by the jazz board. I am not a "pro", I just have the same issue and I've been doing my homework. Your comment gives me the impression that you are either new to the profession, or just not very good at it.
Cant believe he said "this is just a stupid design" then proceeds to wrestle with a smooth shiny plastic piece on top of an equally smooth shiny wood table top ! If he was not a "stupid" man he would place a dish towel or an old T-Skirt between both the part and the table. I am sure his wife would concur with me. Word of advice ! always ensure that when working with plastic components apply some heat to it first. You avoid snapping those small lock tabs. When ordering parts make sure you see the part exact numbers in the add to ensure its compatible !
thanks this help me big time
Love the commentary! Hey I watched another video of same repair.
Guy removed clear shield and bulbs but rather than taking it all out, he used a flat blade to depress those difficult tabs. Just reach around behind it. It's held in place and much easier that on a table. Cheers.
Thanks very much! We bought the Whirlpool version and I'm having thermistor problems. I was worried about breaking the light shield and control housing and you "saved my bacon"! You have a new subscriber! Thanks again. Same clearance problems here. Thank the EPA for the lower durability because of their energy use regulations.
Thanks for your video
I have a jenn air jazz bord was replaced 14 months ago paid $400 it stopped working again, I got a new replacement bord from eBay for $80 replaced it flowing you video all good it stated working now
Nice to see that even on your old age, you can still "pop it off one handed " :)
Appreciate the hard work of posting this video. I hope if I were to view your newer videos you would have gotten a little better at framing your shots. There were a number of time key things were just outside the frame. Also pulling the whole unit out of the top would have been nice to see done. We did see it put back in. Thanks.
I have the Kenmore that I bought brand new in 22/2019 that has the exact control board. I bought it from Amazon for $35, and it works again. You save me time & money. Thank you for sharing this knowledge.
Thanks for posting. I've got the same problem, fridge, and even code, lol...
we bought a new fridge one year and three weeks ago. It has stopped working with two dash marks where the temp range numbers should be. What is interesting is other then the shape of the housing it looks identical to your older fridge. Best video I have found so far that matches my modern fridge. Thanks
Same sitiation for me. Kenomre bottom freezer 596.6931...
@@dr9402 I bought a board from Amazon. $57. FRIDGE WORKS LIKE NEW AGAIN.
Thanks, just purchased it. Arrives Dec 28th.👍
New board arrived. Runs like new again.👍
Whirlpool is the main manufacturer of most appliances
I have an 11 years old Maytag bottom freezer refrigerator and it has broke 4 times. They replaced the computer board last month but couldn't guarantee that it would solve the temperature problems in the fridge. At first it was better and not freezing all my produce in the fridge but then a month later the fridge wasn't working at all and he said there was nothing else I could do and assured me that it wasn't the thermostat. So I just bought a new fridge and went with a GE model this time. Hopefully, it will work better than the Maytag did.
Great vid sorry to hear you left Merill middle I used to be one of ur students glad to see your doing well with your life and the amazing progression on UA-cam
What did you play?
@@stuntcardriver percussion
@@icansavehiphop hmm...
Thank you for taking the time, our fridge is identical.
Glad I could help.
Actually, it isn't. Did he show you how to test circuits? Defrost Thermostat, Thermistor (temperature sensors)? Defrost heater? Did he go through the 8 different diagnostic service test the board can do? Did he put it in forced defrost cto determine if the heater and defrost Thermostat are working?
I have the same fridge. Same exact one. I've already replaced the thermostat.
"let's get a new fridge!!"
Well- we want counter depth. Our space is 1/4" inch too narrow. So we'd have to move fridge, add another 15A circuit and outlet, remove other cabinets, and do another cabinet build in space where old fridge was...
I'd rather replace the control board in near term....
There are two openings to put a slotted screw driver in to open the control cover.
I use a tablespoon because the handle got the perfect curvature. Just hole it with a hand towel or a pan glove
We found out the hard way as we were trying to be proactive and replaced a 30 year old Kenmore that was working fine. We thought it was way past being on borrowed time and replaced it with another Kenmore. One month after the warranty expired the compressor went out. Sears was no help, of course, so we had to buy another one...I’m still kicking myself!!
I am keeping my eyes open for an older used refrigerator just in case. Maybe from like an estate sale.
Thank you
@stuntcardriver for this great video. My Kenmore fridge keeps setting both the fridge and the freezer temperature to 7 and I have to try like 50 times to revert it back to 4 by pressing the down arrow (most of the times it will not respond when I press the down arrow) and then at sometime later it will increase it up again to 7 on it's own. I was checking and found the fridge has 2 control boards, the one in the video and there is also another one in the back so I am not sure which one is bad. Do you have any idea? Also do you still have the link for the board you bought? Thanks again for this great video !
I bought the control board from Amazon.
www.amazon.com/Tosva-W10503278-Whirlpool-PS11755733-WPW10503278/dp/B07GCM54RW/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Tosva+W10503278+for+Whirlpool+Kenmore+PS11755733+AP6022400+WPW10503278+WPW10503278+Jazz+Board&qid=1628158302&sr=8-3
I've already bought a new part for the fridge, I couldn't for the life of me find out how to perform a forced defrost. The new part I bought replaced a part that wasn't messed up in the beginning, I hope it's not the board but if it is at least I know I can find it cheaper. The local fix it place can get them for $160.
Tech sheet should be under center front stuck in plastic bag. All diagnostics are given. I think forces defrost is done by pushing freezer temp down button 3 times. The chosing S (short defrost) with fresh food up button. Other videos explain
Amazon sells those jazz board for $38.
@@Jake-by9ly the tech sheet is kept at the back near the compressor. Open the lower back cover and it's wedged on the left side.
Similar problem here. Bottom was frozen up. I just went through multiple tests via the service menu. Everything tested out fine, but the FD, (Forced Defrost), didn't seem to be happening. Tried it multiple times, and on the 3rd try I heard hissing and cold air started coming back. I'm thinking this jazz board is probably flakey and I'll swap it out
Thanks for the video. Did the new board fix the defrost problem?
yes
I was wondering if you have any Cheese to Go with that Whine?
Replacment ,not repairing
After spending $3,000....Less than 2 years later (right outside the warranty) My family have practically been camping out of ice chests for OVER a month now! The worst part is Whirlpool subcontracts out their service repairs to 3rd party service specialist but the problem is they NEVER showed up after 4X of calling them out. I had to miss out of 4 different days of work. Finally a guy came out NEVER picked up 1 tool. NEVER took ANYTHING apart. I told him i thought it was the control board, he then proceeds to walk over to the fridge and say yep its the control board and wants $500 which i had no issue paying but said the part would take 4-6 weeks before it was delivered due to shipping delays cause of covid plus the company itself is back up several more weeks. I don't think ANYONE really knows what its like to go without a refrigerator for an extended period of time. Anyways the wanna be tech tried to charge me $125 before kicking him out of my house. Then i ordered another control board which took over a week (which i thought was the wrong board but really it was the right one and just needed to be broken in half go figure) Anyways so i ordered another board waited over another week. The 2nd board i installed only to find out my fridge still didn't work so i'm thinking that theres something major going on so i'm researching for another week why dashes are showing on my control board. Then finally tonight i said forget trying to get my refund for the first board i'm gonna try to break it in half (LOL) and install it. Well i did. And FINALLY i heard the compressor come on. I followed the steps in the video step by step and now THANKS YOU my family finally has a fridge. Were no longer camping out of ice chest buying 40LBS of ice a day!!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH YOU MADE MY NIGHT AND I"M GONNA SLEEP LIKE A BABY NOW!!! 🤪🙏🙏🙏 May GOD bless you with an abundance of blessings my friend.
Glad it helped. Ours started getting warm again. I ordered a new GE with a freezer on top. I am done sticking parts in to this one
Thanks for this vidéo Can you tell me where i Can cet thé documentation Electronic diagram etc... Thanks
Khadir
Did you go thru the diagnostic steps to test the various components of the fridge?
I did. Has been working ever since.
@@stuntcardriver My situation is, no frost on back wall of freezer, fan is working, damper vent is working, but it is still on the warm side in the fresh food top. I lowered the setting to #2 instead of 4 and after all night its at 46 deg. I just found the diagnostic papers behind the kick toe.
@@pstef8936 It sounds like you're on the right track. I have had the same problem every time frost build up.
@@pstef8936 I recommend setting freezer to 4 and FF to 5 or 6 to achieve desired FF temp - 38°. Test temperature if foid or beverage they had been in there at least 4-8 hours. Air warms as soon as you open the door, needing another 4 hours to cool again.
I can't pull the spec sheet out from the bottom coils. Any suggestions on how to remove the sheets from the plastic envelope? Where can I get the the tech sheets if I can't get them out from the bottom of the refrigerator?
I believe they can be found online.
GREAT TROUBLESHOOT VIDEO
Do you have a link for the control board?
I don't. I just picked one from amazon.
Where did you buy the control board?
amazon
your a fridge repairman and didn't know it
This is a control board replacement, not control board repair.
Not repair board but changing new board
Is it still running 5 years later?
No, acted up again and decided to purchase a new refrigerator
@stuntcardriver
Ok. I just replaced my control board, with your help, maybe I'll get lucky.
Thank you.
Seems like those board only work for a few years before they need replacement. @@sharksport01
@@stuntcardriver
It didn't even work 1 hour.
Is it made in China?
The control board is.
@@stuntcardriver so that's why it keeps breaking!
@@davemcguigan218 So frustrating.
@@davemcguigan218 no, it's because WHIRLPOOL and MAYTAG didn't protect the board better from moisture damage. OFTEN, simply disconnecting and reconnecting the plugs will scrape off corrosion, fixing the REAL PROBLEM
@@Jake-by9ly thanks Jake!!!
As a pro I can say, this guy doesn't know what he is doing! The jazz boyd is the least likely cause of problems. The connection TO IT could be corroded from moisture. Simple disconnecting and reconnecting often scrapes off the corrosion. Defective $20 defrost Thermostats are the main reason fir poor or no cooling in fresh food section because the frost build-up blocks air flow to the FF section. Uncleaned condenser coil beneath or behind the unit also will make compressor work harder. Free air flow is essential to creating the heat exchange. The defrost heater could be burnt out - not common in WHIRLPOOL/MAYTAG family of BRANDS. COMMON amongst ALL BRANDS is a bad compressor relay or tired compressor. I ALWAYS replace those with a 3-in-one relay, overload and start capacitor - SUPCO #UCRO410 UCRO410RC or equivalent available from any appliance parts store and AMAZON.
It's been good for 4 years.
The problem was the fridge not defrosting. One of the main causes is the defrost timer. This fridge does not have a seperate defrost timer, the defrost cycle is controlled by the jazz board.
I am not a "pro", I just have the same issue and I've been doing my homework.
Your comment gives me the impression that you are either new to the profession, or just not very good at it.
I agree with John. My unit is 14 years old. I just replaced my second board today. Had the same problem twice and both times it was the board.
Cant believe he said "this is just a stupid design" then proceeds to wrestle with a smooth shiny plastic piece on top of an equally smooth shiny wood table top !
If he was not a "stupid" man he would place a dish towel or an old T-Skirt between both the part and the table. I am sure his wife would concur with me.
Word of advice ! always ensure that when working with plastic components apply some heat to it first. You avoid snapping those small lock tabs.
When ordering parts make sure you see the part exact numbers in the add to ensure its compatible !
U talk to.much. go to the point man