GE Refrigerator Not Cooling Clicking Control Board Repair
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- Опубліковано 13 чер 2017
- This is the repair that I made to my 13 year old GE side by side refrigerator that stopped working and made a constant clicking sound. Upon inspecting the main control board I noticed a couple of damaged capacitors on the board and replaced them to fix the problem.
The main control boards are available from various sources online but you must make sure to match your boards exact model and serial number before purchasing. There should be a label on the board with this information.
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Amazon Affiliate links to control boards
1. GE WR55X10942 Refrigerator Main Control
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2. GE WR55X10956 Main Control Board
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3. General Electric WR55X10942 Refrigerator Main Control Board
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4. GEH WR55X10942 Board Asm Main Control
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DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. This helps support the channel and allows me to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for the support! - Наука та технологія
5 years and this video is still helping people out! I just had the same problem and replaced the caps with 35 volt versions and it fixed the problem! The surprising part was that my water dispenser is now working and that has not worked for years! I have no idea why it fixed it, but it did. Thanks for posting!
Videos channels like yours are the reason I love UA-cam so much. If you search right someone else had the same issue you have and has a way to fix it. Thank you for posting. Saved me from getting a new fridge!!
Cost me $1.60 to fix my fridge. Was about to go out and buy a new one because I thought motor for ice dispenser had gone out too. Fixed clicker issue and dispenser! Thanks a bunch for posting this video!! I really appreciate it
Good to hear it is still helping people save money. I still have my fridge. I've seen videos where even the newer fridges today have all types of problems.
This video helped save me hundreds on a new fridge. I didn't fix the existing mother board, cause me soldering would likely burn down my house. But I got a new mother board, had it installed in 20 minutes, and that did the trick. Thanks!
Bro...you are the best! You saved me $300! Due to your video, I was able to follow your advice by replacing both 470uf /25v capacitors and now my fridge is working perfectly. Thank you very much and many blessings to you!
Where did you get the calicitors for your refrigerator ar😊
I Appreciate the time and effort you took to record this repair.
I think I was looking at about $1200 for a new refrigerator of similar size so I figured I might as well give it a try. It also motivated me to get the water dispenser working after doing without it for over 5 years.
Repair worked for me. Thanks so much. Replaced both bubbled out 470uf 25v capacitors and the fridge fired right up. GREAT!!!
Used this video to identify the problem with my fridge. Followed along using the same fix and it worked! Thank you for posting!
Glad it helped you fix the problem. Mine is still working since the repair. Don't forget to vacuum around the compressor to help it stay cool.
I just replaced these same capacitors today thanks to yours and another video that mentioned these caps as being a common board failure. So far this appears to have fixed the issue, just need to give it over night to be sure.
For anyone that might read this, I’m not sure if it was mentioned in the video, but in my case the through the door dispenser was what stopped working first. It would not dispense ice or water but the temp control panel worked and there was no click or light dimming in unison to the clicking. About 6 days later the symptoms mentioned in the video started and it would no longer cool.
Just hope that serves as a possible early warning symptom. Thanks again, great video!
Mine was doing the same thing. Water and ice dispensing stopped working and then one day it started clicking and stopped getting cold. Replaced the 2 caps and now it's working perfect again. Sure beats buying a new fridge. :)
Thank you!! It worked! My GE profile refrigerator model is PFSS5RKZHSS which is different from what is shown in this video but had the same clicking sound and flashing zeros on the front display. Like as you mentioned, having these two capacitors near the heatsink is either a design flaw or "planned obsolescence", reducing their life. I noticed the slight bulge on the top of those capactors. I replaced them with a different brand 470uf 50v high temp capacitors as the 25v ones were not available locally. It works like a charm. The whole fix cost me $13 as I had to buy a solder sucker as well to remove the capacitor. Thank you a ton!
Thank you so much for posting this. I had the same problem. Since I repair pinball PCBs, I already had the parts, tools, and expertise. Easy peasy. Bonus: the door panel water and ice dispensers work again! You are the man!
Thank you for sharing this great video. I had the same clicking sound and ordered a control board. It worked. However after seeing this video, I replaced the capacitors just as you posted, and the board worked like brand new. Thanks.
Thanks . My soldering skills are poor. My de-soldering skills are much worse. The board now looks like a major war was fought in there but got it done and the pleasant hum of the compressor is now filling the garage once again. It's extremely unusual to see a youtube video this well done. And without annoying porn-style music blasting in the background. You even follow up and help with additional questions and provide the parts links. Subscribing.
I had THE SAME problem and this video helped me to repair the board and avoid pay $150 for the part. Many, many thanks. Just as an add-on, and to help someone to buy them, the capacitors are 2 of 470Mf 25V.
I also had to change resistance R43, that is a 2R 5% 3W.
The problem I had was that the refrigerator starts a loop of reset. Then, for a while, was working well till entered again in this loop. Also, when trying to get ice, all the system reseted.
My refrigerator is
GE PROFILE Arctica
MODEL: PSM25SGSACGS
Main Control Board:
WKKT Model No: 0158-01-05
GEA Part No: 200D4852G012
GE Part number WR55X10942P
MF is not the same as μF. These are 470μF - microfarads.
Thank You for this Video Tom. $1.50 for two capacitors, $7.99 shipping and 15 year old GE Profile side by side frig is working again. Again Thank you for taking your time to film and share!
Where did you buy your replacement parts for your refrigerator😊
Followed this video today for repairing a Frigidaire main board. New caps and done!! It works! Thank you for posting 👍
Had a similar issue with a newer model ge side by side, have replaced board once already. This second time I started looking for where the problem might be. I could see some brown discoloration on the board near a large resistor. Touching it I noticed it was loose and when checking with meter the value was correct but was not connected. I figured it heated up to the point the resistor popped off the board traces. Taking a jumper wire and making a patch connection to the other end of the traces has fixed the problem. The compressor is running right again and does not sound like a jackhammer! To think I almost ordered another board for 175$ and let my food spoil.... Over a simple solder job.
Thanks for the video, and take care.
Casey
I'm not a welding/soldering kind of guy - especially on an appliance motherboard. I purchased the replacement motherboard from an ebay seller, for $158.95, Instead of paying $239 to $310 from local parts suppliers. The cost of replacing the motherboard is reasonable for a non-soldering/welding kind of guy, like me. Thanks for your valuable video that helped me to diagnose the problem.
That’s a great idea…
Fixed the problem. Thank you for taking the time to make this. Saved me $350 on a new board. Didn't have 470uf so used two 330uf and a 220uf on the back. 470uf on order. 47 cents each delivered.
Where did you order new capacitor from?
@@user-nd4gl9zb5i Amazon
Great video. I replaced those 2 capacitors and the fridge is now working perfectly. Thanks again!
I have a pds2251sblss GE Profile Fridg...Same Caps were damaged. 25v 470uf. Replaced and back in business. Thanks Tom...saved me thousands. Yahoo
This saved me lots of $$$. Seems to be the only thing online that shows the fix to this exact problem. Most sites saying it’s the compressor or fan. If you happen to have an old monitor laying around (I did for another project and just never started said project), I can almost guarantee the 470uf/25v capacitor you need is on the power supply. Mine had two, but I only had to replace one so now I have a spare incase the other goes bad.
It's videos like this that helps make UA-cam so valuable and successful a medium.
I had the same problem and fixed it thanks to you. Thank you very much. Take care Tom.
This video saved my freaking fridge man it's amazing. Thanks a ton for all the help.
I'm glad you were able to fix your fridge. Mine is still working too.
Thank you for your video. It helped me solve mi refrigerator problem. Where I live the main board would have cost $275.-. By replacing the two condensors it cost me $5,-. to repair the refrigerator. Thank you once again.
I'm glad it worked out for you and saved you some money. Make sure to vacuum the dust out around the motor too. I thought mine had insulation around it at first but it was a layer of dust.
Very nice Sir, ordered caps from amazon on Saturday, received on Sunday, repaired in less than one hour. Thank You
thank you my friend all i did was touch the capacitor and the refrigerator started up . GOD BLESS
I appreciate your good job, I fixed my refrigerator by you intruction video.
Thanks eTech Tom. You just saved me over $300.00 C$. I replaced those two capacitors for $6.48 C$ including shipping. I also subscribed. Thanks again.
I'm glad it saved you some money. Mine is still working too.
Hi, thank you so much for your video.I was able due to it to save my 11 years old GE. Keep doing this !
This is the 2nd time mine's went warm, last time I replaced the motherboard for cheap on ebay (over 20 year old fridge). I just ordered another (cheap again, lol), but I think I'll try to repair and keep this one as a spare. Thanks for pointing out your tips!
Hi Tom good effort and have motivated me and others to follow the repair ( DIY ) thanks pal
Very good video! Very helpful, I had same problem and was able to fix it quick and cheap, thank you for the video.
I'll also add, that I first thought that the caps on your board had leaked based on the video. But after working on my board, I can see that the board was coated with a conformal coating, and the "ring" left around your caps was merely that coating.
Thanks
Keep posting someone videos
Thanks for educating the community and appreciate your volunteership
Thanks to Team
Many thanks and God bless Tom! You saved me a fridge, at least for now :)
I have a ge gsh25jftaww fridge and this worked perfectly. Clicking sound coming constantly from board. Hope this helps others who have similar model #
Glad you were able to fix your fridge. Mine is still working.
Thanks eTechTom. Found the two 47uf x 400V capacitors bulged. Changed them out and refrigerator is running !
Glad to hear you were able to repair the refrigerator.
Going to be starting internship at GE-A in refrigeration electronics department, thanks for my first of many looks at one of these boards.
Best of luck!
Have a newer GE Profile fridge with the same problem. Clicking and “0” scrolling across the display. When unplugged and replugged it just clicks.
Found the two 470uf caps and they were slightly bulged. Replaced them and it started up, running fine now.
Thanks for the video!
I'm glad you were able to fix your fridge. Mine is still going strong. Definitely not a good idea to have the caps up against the hot heatsink.
Thank you. I fixed my mother's Hotpoint refrigerator that uses the same board. My options were $150 for a new pcb or a new fridge. Took me hours to diagnose and research on a solution. I thought it was the compressor relay.
Thanks for your time and tutorial
Thank you for the easy fix, my ge is a different model but similar board same issue. The LED's inside of mine went dim then 2 weeks later the ice maker quit working. And then with in a week (Sunday morning) it started clicking and not cooling. I was looking at replacing replays and overlooked the 2 bulging caps. Thank you for taking the time to post this video it was a GREAT HELP.
thank you. this was very helpful. heading out now to buy some replacement capacitors.
I want to thank you very much for this. I performed this exact swap for a GE Profile (PGCS1RKZA) that was clicking and flashing four zeros on the display. The unit would no longer cool and even the interior lighting wasn't working. I examined the two capacitors in question and found them to be slightly bulged as you did. I will share that, as a novice with my soldering iron and in replacing parts like this, it took me a bit to locate the correct capacitors. For those that are going to do this, the capacitors on the board are narrow and fit snugly into the position they are in. Capacitors with the same ratings (470uF/25V) can come in various dimensions. The dimensions you are looking for will be: 8 mm Dia. x 20 mm length (this is the size of the body itself). The short and wide ones wouldn't fit in this location. Here is what I ordered: www.amazon.com/dp/B00MEINPGW/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_G6iIAb071T9BV
Thanks a ton for this. You saved me well over $100. Cheers!
Thank you thks is one of most cooprehensive video. Simple and efective.
Very helpful, thank you! I had the same issue.
Thank you for upload this videos and share your knowledge about this matter
Hi bro, I have a GE model: PSE29NHTECWW that stopped working too, I looked at the main board (Part no.: WR55X26733) and noticed that the R12 has exploded. I was looking for the ohm value on the internet when I found your tutorial, I suddenly realized that R12 on your main is 221 (220ohms) Thank you very much.
Thanks, I was able to fix my fridge after a micro-power outage caused the same two caps to bulge and a resistor to burn. The resistor in question was R-12 on the bottom, a surface-mount resistor with code 221 on it. If you have the same issue, replace it with any 220 ohm resistor. The surface contacts on mine were burnt as well, so I soldered it directly to each component the leads lead to- which required me to drill a hole through an empty part of the board as one component was on the top side. It's running though!
I had the same two caps bulged out the top, and a toasty R-12 underneath. Replaced both caps and the resistor and now my board is just ticking... incredibly frustrating since my fridge was working before - just the LEDs were dim and the ice maker was slow on ice - the 12V J4-2 J4-3 voltage was only 8.3V (should be ~13.5) and the fan supply J2-3J2-8 was only 10.7V. (should be ~13.5)
@@spblackey Awesome, good job!
You’re the man. Thanks!
Just fix it my refrigerator thanks to your video. I changed those two capacitors and everything works.
Very nice thanks for posting the repair
Saved my ass, not to mention my groceries! Much appreciated!
Thank you for the information 🙏🏽
Took the control board down and the two capacitor seems to have the same issue. Will try tomorrow. Finger crossed.
GREAT VIDEO! THANK YOU. GOD BLESS!
Very helpful - thanks so much!
You are the man! Thanks so much
Thanks a lot.
I have a much newer stainless steel ge fridge and this same thing was happening and this exact same fix worked like a charm! GE must just continue To use the same circuit boards over and over with a poor design.
Thank you for posting.
Thanks. Found a bulged cap may replace board for now and order the cap to repair and keep as a spare.
Any thoughts on wiring a small DC fan to cool off that heat sink?
Great video- how do you know what’s positive and what’s the negative side of electrode? Thanks
you a real one is all I'm gonna say, ty
Hi! I do have a GE PGSS5RKZSS, newer then yours but I found same capacitors inflated when all others are flat, so I will try same then you did. I will let you know what happens. Thanks!
Nice work!
thanks. it worked for me
great explanation
👌Hello, eTech Tom, Spot on. I assure you that you will be getting some beer money from the lady that asked me to fix her 'frig. 1) bulging caps are never, ever good things. The tops are supposed to be very flat and clean. Electrolitics can get warm/brown, but, the tops will usually tell you first off. 2) Your theory could be sound and certainly a contributing factor, although, conventional heat rises (as opposed to radiant). We will never know, but, I suspect design issue as this is so common. 3) there are debates over what to replace in terms of preventing this again. Those were 25V caps and 50Vs would be able to handle more abuse, but, they are larger. Without knowing the original design criteria, we don't know if the caps are/were the weakest link or the transistor next to them. I chose the 50V route and just hung them a bit off the board. I noticed the solder used was of the "environmental" and I needed to add some flux to make clean desoldered holes. 4) one of your fans (Tradition Rider) is correct in using different caps of smaller value when used in parallel to come up to around 470uF. Lower value might be better if the inrush current is affecting the transistor nearby. I didn't ohm it out and get schematic like on it. 'Just saying. You have a smart fan base, by the looks of the comments. Nice job and Thank you for the time. I got extra cookies for saving her $$. 😀
Thanks, This video makes me feel the best because I realized afterwards that it saved people some money. I still have the same fridge but it died again last month. I had purchased a replacement board off of ebay back when I made this video just in case I could not fix it so I swapped it in. The fridge compressor relay was not working so I watch some videos and assumed it was the relay but it was not getting a start voltage from the control board. I have not tried to troubleshoot it yet but visually I did not see anything wrong. I was looking at replacing the fridge and quickly realized that the prices have really gone up so I saved some money again. If I troubleshoot it I will post a video. By the way I have a Norge customatic in the cellar that has been continuously plugged in for over 50 years and has never needed repair. It was my back up while I fixed the modern fridge that keeps breaking.
@@tmc200527 Good outcome. Your "investment" in the board paid off. Amazing Norge! I'll update with beer money, next time I see lady.
@@tmc200527 what eBay store did you buy your control board from and will I be able to return the board if the replacement board does not stop my clicking problem? Thanks
@@Ally-oi6lm It was B Lights Parts LLC I don't know what there return policy is. The listings do say 30 day returns buyer pays for return shipping. Make sure your model and parts numbers match.
Great just ordered new caps for mine Thanks for sharing
Thanks for such a super helpful video. This morning by fridge(GSS25WGPDBB) was not cooling, dispenser lights flickering and temperature control is showing up as blank. Tested main board for voltage and it's showing up bad(low DC voltage). Could it possibly be capacitors? I don't see any burn marks on the board and getting input AC fine too. Curious, what were your symptoms?
hi fantastic hack or fix i did it and really works , now i have another trouble it is thar this board now is not sending enough voltage to the water / ice dispenser front panel which works with 12-14 volts and the main board deliver just 8 and dicresses to 6 when the refrigerator starts to run, do you think there can be a way to fix it changing and replacing some components ? , i will apreciate all the help thanks
My refrigerator is 20 years old and I'm about to replace this board for the 3rd time. They last 5 to 7 years.
Doing good, Big Big Help
Great video, I replace the capacitors and my refrigerator is working fine. Can you tell me why my ice cubes are hollow and how I can fix it?
I have not heard of that before so I googled that problem and found a couple of suggestions.
This problem is referred to as "hollow cubes" and it does cause the cubes in the ice bucket to stick together.
If the refrigerator and the icemaker are level hollow cubes are caused by 1 of 2 things.
The water fills into the end of the icemaker opposite the motor and controls. If the water doesn't fill all of the ice molds the one closest to the motor will have a partial fill. The thermostat senses the temperature of this mold and when the thermostat closes the harvest cycle begins. A partial fill causes this mold to cool faster than the other molds so the icemaker harvests partially frozen cubes from the other molds.
To check this put your finger into the molds and see if the front one is less full than the others. I am sending you an image showing how to adjust the water level of the icemaker. If the water level changes again after you have adjusted it, replace the refrigerator water valve.
The second thing that can cause hollow cubes is a defective thermostat inside the icemaker. If this thermostat fails it is slightly more expensive and much less work to replace the entire icemaker. If the water level in the ice molds is all the same I would replace the icemaker.
It is also suggested to change the water filter every 6 months and check to see that the water line is not kinked.
Great stuff. TY
Tom, thank you so much for this video. With less than $6, we replaced 4 caps on my GE board WKKT 0158-80-71 R-101 and got frige (PSHS6TGXCDSS) to work again and dispense water. There is a big black relay on the board that has a slightly browned solder point that I will replace shortly as well. Would you happen to know how I can identify what that relay is responsible for? I can't find the schematic for this board online. 2 of my remaining symptoms are 1) the icemaker's tray is still not filling with water, and 2) the dispensed water is not cold. Many thanks!
Tq for useful contion
I had some repair guys come yesterday. My refrigerator was not cooling. They decided to replace the main control relay which was $170, that didn't fix it so they replaced the main control another $170 costing me $617 with laborer only to find out the motherboard has blown in one little location now this will cost another $200. $800 total I should have just bought a new fridge.
Real technician
Nice video! Gracias.
Thanks lots
I can't believe an established company like GE would let such a rookie design mistake find its way into production. The electrolytics C29 and C30 are indeed being baked by the diode heatsink. Even though the caps I pulled out of my defunct fridge had a high temp rating of 105*C, eventually they will fail as the electrolyte boils off. As these are filter caps on the secondary side of the on-board switching power supply, there is some latitude in replacing them to avoid a repeat early failure. Here dual caps are paralleled to minimize board footprint, resulting in approx. 1000uF total capacitance on the output rail. So a single cap of this value can be used in place of dual caps. This won't fit in the C29/30 locations but avoiding that hot seat will make for a more permanent repair. As such locate the single cap to the right of the heatsink, lying it on its side. If a new cap is used the leads should be long enough to allow this or wire stubs can be added to a cap from the junk box. I'd insulate the extended leads with spaghetti tube and glue cap on its side to the board. Finally the cap needs to be a low ESR type and intended for use in switching power applications, which usually have a service temp rating of 105*F or greater. If you're in a time crunch a suitable 1000uF/25V cap can be harvested from the switching power supply of cast off electronics. Kudos to eTech Tom for detailing the failure's root cause.
I will drill the cover plate with many holes, allowing the hot air to escape. Currently it is trapped inside. Is there a material one can stick between two caps and the heat sink. Some kind of insulator. I agree...extremely poor design from industry giant like GE.
Had the same issue, but couldn't wait until I could get the capacitors shipped to me with kids and fridge full of food that would spoil so I used a single 4700uf 25V capacitor I had laying around and mounted it lower away from the heatsink. It's been working great now for over a week! Hopefully it lasts 🤞
Yes you can use a larger single cap(1000/25v) and just lay it down and put a dab of silicone on it to the board to secure it. Being away from the heatsink will extend it's life forsure.
i did it and that s work
What type of solder did you use. I have a relay on the same board that keeps evaporating the solder. Thanks.
owsome bro, good 👍👍💡💡
Hi! I have same problem with my fridge but I don’t see any signs on the electro capacitors. How can I know which one is? And it happened a couple months ago and I let it rest for two weeks. Plugged in again and it was no noise. It work by itself. But I want to fix it, is doing it again.
Is there a trick to snapping back on the j9 jumper. Im not sure if i should force it back on
bravo!
bummer my caps aren't bulged but I still get the clicky clicky now and then after a defrost cycle...touching parts around the board (safely) didn't reveal any hot ones... Interestingly they 'secured' that board where even outside air can't cool it off... I might explore putting in a few strategic holes to let a little air circulate
good video , can you teke me the value of the resistence number 6???
Hi Tom, can you tell me what tool you used to remove the elements from board? Sounded like some type of a gun that pushes it out after heating.
It is called a solder sucker and solder wick which can be found on Amazon.
So, which one was negative and which was positive wire? short wire or long wire?
The electrolytic s have a small amount of a chemical in them..and when they get hot..like next to the heat sink...they can dry out..and bulge or even pop the top off...
Where do you buy Nichcon 470uf 25V capacitor? My GE Refrigerator circuit board showing those two capacitor ( same in your video ) popped up. Please help on telling me where to buy it?
You can get them from Newark www.newark.com/nichicon/uvz1e471mpd1td/aluminum-electrolytic-capacitor/dp/58R3366?st=Nichcon%20470uf%2025V
or Digikey www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nichicon/UHD1E471MPD6/UHD1E471MPD6-ND/2428132
hi man i from Venezuela is hard here im have this board and have bad 5m0365r i need know how test this component u can help me pls
Hi Tom,
First, thanks for your helpful video.
On my control board, I found 4 capacitors (C29, C30, C8, C106) inflated.
The switching regulator "U1" has also blown out.
I can't read the component reference anymore.
Do you know the part number for that IC ?
Thank you for your answer.
U1 is a TOP246Y on my board. Here is a link to the digikey part they carry. It is obsolete but there is a substitute available. www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/power-integrations/TOP246Y/TOP246Y-ND/1007585
Hi Tom,
Thank you very much for your quick response.
I try to change this part.
I remain subscribed to your excellent channel for the all goods advices.
Thanks again for your help.
I think my control board has the same issue. Would it matter if the new capacitor is a little smaller in size but it’s the exact rating? It’s a 470uf 35v - the leaking one is a little longer probably because of its age.
As long as they have the correct ratings and you can make them fit it should work.
Can someone tell me the lead spacing for the capacitor? In other words, what's the distance between the two capacitor leads where they emerge from the bottom of the capacitor?