@@modelrockets3215 Years ago was mega coats of pant and never liked doing that (especially since i never like to wait for things to dry b4 launch (too much Wiley Coyote) Saw you using the wood filler and had some and going to try it on my Apha build first. (Apogee has a 2 part epoxy and too much work) I am going to experiment with lightweight spackle on some crap balsa to see how that turns out. and compare to the wood filler. (Centuri use to sell a Balsa Filler but got ya higher then the rocket with fumes. 🤓 let ya know how it comes out. love the idea of wood filler -.so see how it goes
For balsa fins, I use Rustoleum Filler Primer. Spray it on, let it dry, put another coat on. Sand with 400 grit sandpaper (on a sanding block, preferably) and if the grain is still visible, spray another coat on. Repeat until the wood is glass smooth. I used to use a clear dope based sanding sealer and it worked miracles, but I haven't seen it available for years...
I just picked up some of that minwax stuff and will be using it on my V2 build. Typically I use sig sanding sealer but I now feel it's too old school nowadays.
Do you ever add some water to your wood filler so it soaks down into the grain of the balsa? I think the hanger you have to paint the rockets. That is an awesome idea.
Nice work! You answered some questions I had on this subject. I’ve been building two Apogee High powered model rockets. Worked my rear ended off on the first one. The second I’m trying to work smarter. I have been having terrible results with the gray Rust Oleum 2X primer on two occasions from two separate cans. The stuff is very rubbery and doesn’t seem to want to cure. It’s balling up sand paper quickly.
Hopefully the video was helpful. These paint companies are messing up in my opinion. Combining paint with primer is garbage. Even though I get it to work. Recently I used some Krypton banner red it was still sticky after 4 days.
I ended up getting some duplicolor primer from the auto parts store. That was so much better to sand and fill with. I did get some of the minwax wood filler but the tube I bought have some very gritty sandy feel to it.
My 2 cents on the P&P in one. When referring to gallons or quarts of P&P products, it’s more of a marketing gimmick. they do add more solids to the paint to give better coverage, but not necessarily, going to give you the adhesion properties and blocking as well as a primer itself. As for the spray paint type. I use the 2x for the coverage on multiple things, i have tried to research something on these and don’t say much. I do know the 2X is pretty good to use. I would “SWAG” that there may be a chemical compound mix/component in a spray can vice the cans of paint a painter would use. Rust Oleum has always been good and DupliColor can provide some awesome finishes. I overall think it’s a marketing gimmick. I don’t trust the cans of it and will prime where needed. but I do like the 2X Rust Oleum. I just don’t know what makes it better then “skipping a step”. ¯\(ツ)/¯ Who knows today. maybe they just lie to identity and paint and primer 🤣
From Canada, really enjoyed your tips and advice on finishing a model rocket. I'm working on the 100:1 Saturn V right now and I don't want to mess it up. I'm more of a 'nuts and bolts' sort and have difficulty making the things look pretty. I build them right on, but sometimes they look like Oprah in hot-pants. Anyhow, regarding that scratch-built 'Thiokol' (not sure of the spelling) you built, is it a multiple engine single stager? Looks like it! Even if it's just a single engine lifter, still a fantastic looking model. Good on 'ya! That multiple engine ignition stuff can be a bit hairy. By the way, I also use that same brand of paint you use, but I had to scratch my own head as well as to that 'paint-primer' thing, and haven't bought any of it. Thanks Man.
Any advice for clear-coating? I use Rustoleum too (the local ACE hardware nearby is the main reason) and sometimes when I put the clear coat on a beautiful paint job, I'll get some bubbles. I understand that the clearcoat is likely "re-energizing" the paint and it may occur when the paint is on too thick but I can't pin down this exactly as I have had good and bad results with no clear methods for perfection. Thanks.
You can also clear coat with floor polish. The brand used to be called Future Floor Polish. Brush it on with the sponge brushes. I have a video on this.
Use Tamiya masking tape. It's in most hobby stores and online it's the best. Just press it down firmly, lightly build up thin coats let it dry for a several hours. The slowly peel it up.
Thanks for the video! I picked up some of that Minwax filler today. You asked about the paint # primer. I can only tell you what I have learned. I was painting some steel, and I first used some red primer. I followed up with black 2X paint. After 3 days in Texas heat, it would not dry. I could wipe the paint off with my finger. I guess since you do it on wood it's ok.
I didn't know that Minwax has a filler product. Definitely going to give that stuff a try. Little Joe I looks great.
Thank you. It's pretty good, it sands off well.
@@modelrockets3215 Years ago was mega coats of pant and never liked doing that (especially since i never like to wait for things to dry b4 launch (too much Wiley Coyote)
Saw you using the wood filler and had some and going to try it on my Apha build first. (Apogee has a 2 part epoxy and too much work)
I am going to experiment with lightweight spackle on some crap balsa to see how that turns out. and compare to the wood filler. (Centuri use to sell a Balsa Filler but got ya higher then the rocket with fumes. 🤓
let ya know how it comes out. love the idea of wood filler -.so see how it goes
Good info!!
Thank you.
For balsa fins, I use Rustoleum Filler Primer. Spray it on, let it dry, put another coat on. Sand with 400 grit sandpaper (on a sanding block, preferably) and if the grain is still visible, spray another coat on. Repeat until the wood is glass smooth. I used to use a clear dope based sanding sealer and it worked miracles, but I haven't seen it available for years...
Great Video ! I have always used Dope Filler and Rustoleum Primer. Thanks for more Information.
Thank you. Ok sounds like a good combo.
Duplicolor primer is life changing
Ok. If I see it I'll give it a try.
I just picked up some of that minwax stuff and will be using it on my V2 build. Typically I use sig sanding sealer but I now feel it's too old school nowadays.
Great tips. Rustoleuim primer works good for me too. Keeps the chipping very low as well. Your little Joe looks cool too!
Impressive paint jobs!
That’s a good brand of filler I also use the gorilla glue wood filler to thats a good brand also
Do you ever add some water to your wood filler so it soaks down into the grain of the balsa? I think the hanger you have to paint the rockets. That is an awesome idea.
Yes I think it out with water as needed. Too much can warp the balsa, but it will straighten out once it dries.
Nice work! You answered some questions I had on this subject.
I’ve been building two Apogee High powered model rockets.
Worked my rear ended off on the first one. The second I’m trying to work smarter.
I have been having terrible results with the gray Rust Oleum 2X primer on two occasions from two separate cans. The stuff is very rubbery and doesn’t seem to want to cure. It’s balling up sand paper quickly.
Hopefully the video was helpful. These paint companies are messing up in my opinion. Combining paint with primer is garbage. Even though I get it to work. Recently I used some Krypton banner red it was still sticky after 4 days.
I ended up getting some duplicolor primer from the auto parts store.
That was so much better to sand and fill with.
I did get some of the minwax wood filler but the tube I bought have some very gritty sandy feel to it.
My 2 cents on the P&P in one.
When referring to gallons or quarts of P&P products, it’s more of a marketing gimmick. they do add more solids to the paint to give better coverage, but not necessarily, going to give you the adhesion properties and blocking as well as a primer itself.
As for the spray paint type. I use the 2x for the coverage on multiple things, i have tried to research something on these and don’t say much. I do know the 2X is pretty good to use.
I would “SWAG” that there may be a chemical compound mix/component in a spray can vice the cans of paint a painter would use. Rust Oleum has always been good and DupliColor can provide some awesome finishes.
I overall think it’s a marketing gimmick. I don’t trust the cans of it and will prime where needed. but I do like the 2X Rust Oleum. I just don’t know what makes it better then “skipping a step”. ¯\(ツ)/¯
Who knows today. maybe they just lie to identity and paint and primer 🤣
From Canada, really enjoyed your tips and advice on finishing a model rocket. I'm working on the 100:1 Saturn V right now and I don't want to mess it up. I'm more of a 'nuts and bolts' sort and have difficulty making the things look pretty. I build them right on, but sometimes they look like Oprah in hot-pants.
Anyhow, regarding that scratch-built 'Thiokol' (not sure of the spelling) you built, is it a multiple engine single stager? Looks like it! Even if it's just a single engine lifter, still a fantastic looking model. Good on 'ya! That multiple engine ignition stuff can be a bit hairy.
By the way, I also use that same brand of paint you use, but I had to scratch my own head as well as to that 'paint-primer' thing, and haven't bought any of it. Thanks Man.
Any advice for clear-coating? I use Rustoleum too (the local ACE hardware nearby is the main reason) and sometimes when I put the clear coat on a beautiful paint job, I'll get some bubbles. I understand that the clearcoat is likely "re-energizing" the paint and it may occur when the paint is on too thick but I can't pin down this exactly as I have had good and bad results with no clear methods for perfection. Thanks.
You can also clear coat with floor polish. The brand used to be called Future Floor Polish. Brush it on with the sponge brushes. I have a video on this.
How do you mask without getting ugly edges and lines?
Use Tamiya masking tape. It's in most hobby stores and online it's the best. Just press it down firmly, lightly build up thin coats let it dry for a several hours. The slowly peel it up.
Thanks!
Thanks for the video! I picked up some of that Minwax filler today. You asked about the paint # primer. I can only tell you what I have learned. I was painting some steel, and I first used some red primer. I followed up with black 2X paint. After 3 days in Texas heat, it would not dry. I could wipe the paint off with my finger. I guess since you do it on wood it's ok.