This, but with the rainbow chain and cassette. Then toss on a Reverb AXS and XTR 4-piston or G2 Ultimate brakes. Put that all on a S-Works Stumpjumper frame with custom paint, Fox Factory suspension, and some fancy Roval wheels. Something that I thought would look sweet is if you take the upper of a Reverb AXS to a anodization shop that does Kashima, and get the uppers Kashima anodized to match the suspension.
i have the same but in X01 uninstalled. I'm still trying to figure if I have to replace my chainring. what was the crank and chainring used in this video?
Shimano 12 Speed deore cassette for looks and hyperglide +, then a sram axs shifter for crisp 12 speed action, ofc with shimano chain. Mismatch made in Heaven. I currently have the probably sexiest E-Bike on the market and installed AXS on it today.
FUN VIDEO IDEA. Maybe. 2 AXS drivetrains/ 2 bikes. Sync the shifter on bike 1 to bike 2's rear derailleur and vice versa. Ride bikes and shift for your riding buddy and try to get it to work. Lol
Installed this guy last night, I love it! For nearly 3 decades have I been tormented by shit cable shifting! Not any more!! Time to shred my local trails in North Wales 🏴 tanks guys 🙏
Like your videos. This is all straight forward when you have the correct HUB on your wheel, when you have the correct BB, when you have the correct post vs flat mount brake calipers, and you know what you are doing. I myself, am in the progress of overhauling my original Giant TCX ADVANCED PRO 1. I was mounted Shimano 11spd cassette, SRAM S series hydraulic brake calipers, shifters, all mechanic. Going to XX1 10-52, XX1 AXS derailer, keeping my original BB and Crank from ROTOR, swapping to a single narrow/wide 40 teeth front ring and going with Sram FORCE shifters which come with flat mount calipers that I will have to take off, to use my original s-series sram calipers as they are post mount. FORCE don't make post mount calipers any longer..... Its very complex and confusing to know when you need a BB spacer, when you need to use an XDR or and XD hub. Is your existing wheel even compatible with an XD hub or XDR hub etc... The calipers, can they be re-used with a different shifting group.... lots of unknown for office workers like me. Keep the videos coming, I have learned a LOT! Thank you.
I got mine a few days ago. Shifts absolutely amazing and the little noise from the servo makes me giggle every time. It's a great shifter. Well worth the 620€ (for the upgrade kit)
i love the dirty stunt double used in the close ups of the B-tensioner shots. Distant shots, beautiful gold chain and virgin cassette. Close up, black chain and trail grime!
Thanks for the vid. Just ordered the x01 upgrade kit from mechanical GX. Also that 240 hub is quiet. I thought they always made a lovely noise usually!
Here's a trick, unless there's some reason I don't know not to do this. Instead of adjusting B with the rider there, simply let air out of the shock and use a cinch or ratchet strap from seat post around rear rim to hold it at 20-30% sag, whichever you think the rider will want. Coil is a bit more difficult but usually you can lean over seat, with seat in chest, pull up on stay to proper sag, and pull cinch strap tight to hold in place long enough to adjust the B.
@@kylaling10 Yes, I'm using the X01 10-52 upgrade kit but the shop ended up installing it for me when my new bike came in. They didn't give me the B gap tool (doh!) but I already own the updated B gap tool (white) which clicks on to the 2nd largest ring on the rear cassette. Now I'm wondering if that's the correct tool for the job. 🤔
@@ddialogue just wanna know if i’m correct so the blue is meant for the 10-50t and the new white tool is for both 10-50 and 10-52.? My upgrade kit came with the blue one and i’m using 10-52t cassette.
Great video! I’m finding it hard to get my axs shifting perfectly when I’m on the bike, but I haven’t adjusted under sag, so that’s probably it. However while fiddling with the adjustments I’ve done a lot of micro adjustments on the controller. Is there a way of resetting to factory settings? I reckon I’d like to get the new b tension tool and start again from scratch! Cheers.
great vid man. just installed this on my new whip (yt jeffsey pro race) and im gettin chain/jockey friction wen sprinting or goin up steeps! any ideas to solve this?
Great video, I just bought the upgrade kit. Will I need to alter my chain length if I am doing a straight switch over of the derailleur from X01 to X01 AXS? Thanks.
So I have an AXS shifter and derailleur I put on my bike with 10-52 NX cassette. 1x 32T drive and NX chain NX cranks Worked FLAWLESSLY! No issues what so ever! Then I got new wheels. I9 hydra hubs with XO1 10-50 cassette changed out the cranks to XO1 and chain xx1. I measured the NX chain that was with my 10-52 to be the exact length of the new XO1 10-50 cassette... Adjusted the b gap perfectly It shifts PERFECTLY SMOOOOOTH with no load on. But as soon as I put some load on the shifting is hard like there’s a crunch where as before it was smooth. Very hard shifting sounds... The chain doesn’t jump or anything it shifts great with no load when I ride around the block. Any tips or tricks???
1) Love the cameos!! 2) if you’re by yourself, how can you fine tune the B-tension [under sag]? Is it usually a slight additional turn clockwise or counter-clockwise?
Great video! Just upgraded my vitus mythique 10 speed to sram xo1 12speed (cable) . When i go lineup my jockey wheel( on derailleur ) with 10T cog the adjustment screw needs to be backed all the way out. Like if derailleur needs to be spaced out so screw can be screwed in. The hanger is stock and not bent. What to do??
Question, can i do aswell the dropper as the drivetrain om the same remote as the drivetrain. So both on the right remote, so i can put my remote left off the bike, so i can put my twinlock better to my left fingers to reach!!
We installed a GX Eagle AXS last week but we couldn't make it perfect even when configuring it under sag. First of all, it seems to me these micro adjustments are not really that micro. 8 clicks and the chain is already switching to the next cog. I mean, with my Deore Shifter I get a lot more fine cable tension turns and I can adjust it so it doesn't make any noise in any part of the 11 speed cassete. However, I do run a 2x11 setup so the chain line is perfect.
What does "under sag" mean? Also, that tool that you clip onto the large cog for the b-screw adjustment---what is it called? And can I use it to adjust for a cassette that I just put on-- 9/48 -- 48 is my largest cog?
What if the derailleur just blinks red and green when you try to shift after pairing? I uploaded the most recent firmware, battery fully charged. Any ideas???
Hey guys little confused about this setup. Per SRAM, you’re supposed to set the chain up in full sag or remove the rear shock and you’re supposed to measure the length of the chain using the largest cog. It’s any particular reason why this is being done differently.??
So I’m curious what happens if you guys try to set the chain length the way sram says? I’ve always used the bottomed out on big ring and use appropriate overlap and it’s always been successful for me. Now with the 10-52 if I do this I end up with a drooping chain on the highest gear. Have you guys ran into this? Maybe sram needs a revision
@@calvinspaeh3353 correct but it only does it with the 52t not the 50t and then when the rear wheel leaves the ground the chain droops and changes gears in the rear over rough stuff. So I end up running the chain length as if using a 50t so it’s a touch short but the alternator is tons of chain slap from the droop accompanied by the weaker clutch on AXS and then sometimes gear changes. So hopefully they’ve addressed that
Liam, bought a second hand Scott Spark RC two weeks ago with Sram Axs eagle. The front shifting is not working (changed the lcd battery..nada) looked at the AZS app and there's a shadow/black where the front shifting should be with an exclamation mark. Reached out to Sram and it's not got back to me, any advice here could it be something more fundamental like, sadly (replacing the shifting mech)
I pretty much have 2 gears side by side that usually give me trouble. I make adjustments and usually the 2 problematic gears move together somewhere else on the cog. 🤷♂️ Sometimes I press the thumb paddle softly (without changing gear) and that minor tension kinda sets it in gear. Its a fine shifting art but annoying A.F.
Fellas, my axs is way off at the starting position. Like way too far outboard. This is on a brand new frame and new hanger, it's not bent. It will only shift up, essentially 10 gears because it's starting position is so far out. How can I tell the derailer to start further in board? This is driving me crazy. If I have it shifted to the smallest gear it will shift the chain right off into the chain stay. If I adjust the limit screw so that the pulley is under the 10 tooth, the derailer won't shift until I press the shift twice and then it will only move 10 gears. I tried micro adjusting the 1st gear position, but it tops out before I can get it in the correct position. Please help.
Hi. Does anyone knows If The derailleur and shifter is compatible with NX 11-50 HG sistem? I'm thinking in upgrade, but, without change my freehub for XD.
Hey!!!! What about chain growth!! The distance between the large rear cog and front chain ring or 1x systems that account chain growth that happen when the suspension is compressed.
The official sram manual clearly shows that the shifting bolts should not be lubricated. The bolt is covered with loctite. This already shows the contradiction - loctite - grease. It's strange that no one pays attention to it.
What’s your opinion on SRAM saying: no Grease on the main Screw of the Derailleur? (SRAM install video on YT) I heard people complaining about the Derailleur loosening.
I'm not sure why they said to use grease when assembling the screw on the derailer. Some metal will react chemically when assembled (aluminum to steel) and you want to use anti seize which helps prevent this. Steel to steel (bolt/screw to threaded hole) I would recommend using a thread lock compound. Several types are made (low, medium, penetrating) which one is used depends on what you are assembling. It should go without saying that anything that is used with allot of vibration and impacts the fasteners should be checked often. It's the nature of the beast that MTB require allot of maintenance. Simply riding it and checking bolts and fasteners once in awhile your bound to have problems.
There first was a red tool for OG 10-50 eagle. Then the purple/blue version came out for AXS and it should do 10-50 and 10-52. The white version is completely different and works with -50 and -52
Good explanation but it's make It's a headache to see the video in this form of photography. You need a camera in a fixed place and not a camera that moves
What is your perfect drivetrain setup?
00:00 Intro
00:29 Parts and Tools
00:56 Install Cassette
2:00 Install Crankset
4:34 Install Rear Derailleur
5:14 Install Controller
6:10 Install Rear Derailleur Battery
6:31Pairing Derailleur and Controller
8:22 Linking to the AXS App & the different modes
9:54 Install Chain
12:34 Derailleur B Tension Tool
14:59 Derailleur Limit Adjustments
17:42 Micro Adjustments
This, but with the rainbow chain and cassette. Then toss on a Reverb AXS and XTR 4-piston or G2 Ultimate brakes. Put that all on a S-Works Stumpjumper frame with custom paint, Fox Factory suspension, and some fancy Roval wheels. Something that I thought would look sweet is if you take the upper of a Reverb AXS to a anodization shop that does Kashima, and get the uppers Kashima anodized to match the suspension.
XX1 AXS(rainbow full set) on my XC bike and XTR full set on my Enduro and trail bike
i have the same but in X01 uninstalled. I'm still trying to figure if I have to replace my chainring. what was the crank and chainring used in this video?
Shimano 12 Speed deore cassette for looks and hyperglide +, then a sram axs shifter for crisp 12 speed action, ofc with shimano chain. Mismatch made in Heaven. I currently have the probably sexiest E-Bike on the market and installed AXS on it today.
A free one
Me watching this even though I'll never be able to afford this
Me watching this because my AXS kit is waiting for my Transition Spur to arrive
@@ddialogue ok ok nice flex I see you
@@henryblasi6149 All good Henri! I'm just super-excited to have this setup. My buddies say it's the real deal.
@@ddialogue yeah for like $2k it had better be
Henry, one day. You will be able to afford this. I believe in you.
FUN VIDEO IDEA. Maybe. 2 AXS drivetrains/ 2 bikes. Sync the shifter on bike 1 to bike 2's rear derailleur and vice versa. Ride bikes and shift for your riding buddy and try to get it to work. Lol
Haha love it!
@@WorldwideCyclery DOOOO ITTTTTT
Do please do this. It would be quality entertainment.
@@WorldwideCyclery Omg please yes, do this
I appreciate that you shot this with a chesty it really makes me feel like I’m in the shoes of someone who can afford this drivetrain
😂
Installed this guy last night, I love it! For nearly 3 decades have I been tormented by shit cable shifting! Not any more!! Time to shred my local trails in North Wales 🏴 tanks guys 🙏
Thanks for this video. I tried following SRAM's own video and I ended up with my chain too long every time. This guide did the trick
Like your videos. This is all straight forward when you have the correct HUB on your wheel, when you have the correct BB, when you have the correct post vs flat mount brake calipers, and you know what you are doing.
I myself, am in the progress of overhauling my original Giant TCX ADVANCED PRO 1. I was mounted Shimano 11spd cassette, SRAM S series hydraulic brake calipers, shifters, all mechanic.
Going to XX1 10-52, XX1 AXS derailer, keeping my original BB and Crank from ROTOR, swapping to a single narrow/wide 40 teeth front ring and going with Sram FORCE shifters which come with flat mount calipers that I will have to take off, to use my original s-series sram calipers as they are post mount. FORCE don't make post mount calipers any longer.....
Its very complex and confusing to know when you need a BB spacer, when you need to use an XDR or and XD hub. Is your existing wheel even compatible with an XD hub or XDR hub etc...
The calipers, can they be re-used with a different shifting group.... lots of unknown for office workers like me.
Keep the videos coming, I have learned a LOT! Thank you.
I got mine a few days ago.
Shifts absolutely amazing and the little noise from the servo makes me giggle every time. It's a great shifter. Well worth the 620€ (for the upgrade kit)
620€ Really?🤣
Just watched this again after fitting my AXS.....really good explanation especially the fine tuning. Thanks for posting it.
The best video and very straightforward on sizing the chain without deflating the rear shock. Great job!
i love the dirty stunt double used in the close ups of the B-tensioner shots. Distant shots, beautiful gold chain and virgin cassette. Close up, black chain and trail grime!
I will never afford to have this bike, but it’s enjoyable to watch. Nice video, thanks man.
Thx Liam, superb as usual. Turbo Levo and I are ready to take the AXS plunge upgrade.
Thanks for the vid. Just ordered the x01 upgrade kit from mechanical GX. Also that 240 hub is quiet. I thought they always made a lovely noise usually!
This was great helping me set my bike up, thanks.
Bro great video
Really appreciate y’all creating these
Big help
This video is just in time.👍🏼
Great super detailed video my friend screw paying the bike shop $100 to do what I can do myself in 15 minutes LOL
Great pro tip on using the T8 to engage the preload bolt. Thanks
Excellent video!
Thanks for sharing this grea knowledge.
Here's a trick, unless there's some reason I don't know not to do this. Instead of adjusting B with the rider there, simply let air out of the shock and use a cinch or ratchet strap from seat post around rear rim to hold it at 20-30% sag, whichever you think the rider will want. Coil is a bit more difficult but usually you can lean over seat, with seat in chest, pull up on stay to proper sag, and pull cinch strap tight to hold in place long enough to adjust the B.
Very conventional method. I like this video on sizing the chain because he did it very straightforward.
This is much better! Thanks
Very helpful, thank you
I have learned to align my axs with this great video. Thanks!
Don’t grease your hangar bolt, unless you want your expensive AXS to undo and end up in your wheel, use blue Loctite.
It comes with pipe tape already applied so you shouldn't need to do anything except tighten it and move on.
Unreal, perfectnisiumexcelentiusum!
Of course this comes out 1 hour after i install my SRAM AXS setup.
Was it as easy to install as the video shows?
@@ddialogue Yes, very easy.
are you using the 10-52t cassette? did you use the Blue B gap tool?
@@kylaling10 Yes, I'm using the X01 10-52 upgrade kit but the shop ended up installing it for me when my new bike came in. They didn't give me the B gap tool (doh!) but I already own the updated B gap tool (white) which clicks on to the 2nd largest ring on the rear cassette. Now I'm wondering if that's the correct tool for the job. 🤔
@@ddialogue just wanna know if i’m correct so the blue is meant for the 10-50t and the new white tool is for both 10-50 and 10-52.? My upgrade kit came with the blue one and i’m using 10-52t cassette.
Great video! I’m finding it hard to get my axs shifting perfectly when I’m on the bike, but I haven’t adjusted under sag, so that’s probably it. However while fiddling with the adjustments I’ve done a lot of micro adjustments on the controller. Is there a way of resetting to factory settings? I reckon I’d like to get the new b tension tool and start again from scratch! Cheers.
I needed this
great vid man. just installed this on my new whip (yt jeffsey pro race) and im gettin chain/jockey friction wen sprinting or goin up steeps! any ideas to solve this?
Agree with everything but the grease on the new derailleur into hanger thread! Had the wife get on her hands and knees to adjust it under sag.
Great video, I just bought the upgrade kit. Will I need to alter my chain length if I am doing a straight switch over of the derailleur from X01 to X01 AXS? Thanks.
I would love to know how to set the B tension on a 10x51 Shimano SLX.
That was quick. Is there a shifter that has three buttons, one that could be used for a dropper?
Ah yes, a video for a tutorial on something ill never own 😔
So I have an AXS shifter and derailleur I put on my bike with 10-52 NX cassette.
1x 32T drive and NX chain NX cranks
Worked FLAWLESSLY! No issues what so ever!
Then I got new wheels. I9 hydra hubs with XO1 10-50 cassette changed out the cranks to XO1 and chain xx1. I measured the NX chain that was with my 10-52 to be the exact length of the new XO1 10-50 cassette...
Adjusted the b gap perfectly It shifts PERFECTLY SMOOOOOTH with no load on. But as soon as I put some load on the shifting is hard like there’s a crunch where as before it was smooth. Very hard shifting sounds...
The chain doesn’t jump or anything it shifts great with no load when I ride around the block.
Any tips or tricks???
1) Love the cameos!! 2) if you’re by yourself, how can you fine tune the B-tension [under sag]? Is it usually a slight additional turn clockwise or counter-clockwise?
Good video thanks. I get some rub from the chain rubbing on the 52 cog when in the second biggest cog despite following all these steps. Any ideas?
That a bulk toolkit 👌
Full details on it here - ua-cam.com/video/-5OEI1oEuVw/v-deo.html
What’s your opinion on that bike repair stand? Pros and cons .
That bike is freaking dialedddd
Would I be able to use a 46T front chainring & 10-42 sram rear cassette with the AXS system , Thanks for your help 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Great video! Just upgraded my vitus mythique 10 speed to sram xo1 12speed (cable) . When i go lineup my jockey wheel( on derailleur ) with 10T cog the adjustment screw needs to be backed all the way out. Like if derailleur needs to be spaced out so screw can be screwed in. The hanger is stock and not bent. What to do??
Question, can i do aswell the dropper as the drivetrain om the same remote as the drivetrain. So both on the right remote, so i can put my remote left off the bike, so i can put my twinlock better to my left fingers to reach!!
We installed a GX Eagle AXS last week but we couldn't make it perfect even when configuring it under sag. First of all, it seems to me these micro adjustments are not really that micro. 8 clicks and the chain is already switching to the next cog. I mean, with my Deore Shifter I get a lot more fine cable tension turns and I can adjust it so it doesn't make any noise in any part of the 11 speed cassete. However, I do run a 2x11 setup so the chain line is perfect.
after watching this video, do you use wolf tooth MM-ISEV to mounting the sram controller? please let me know. thank you
Oh wow good video... I thought that derailer adjusts by self ...
What does "under sag" mean? Also, that tool that you clip onto the large cog for the b-screw adjustment---what is it called? And can I use it to adjust for a cassette that I just put on-- 9/48 -- 48 is my largest cog?
Nice presentation, does the (SRAM B-Tension Tool) work with the e13 9-50 sprocket?
What is the exact cassette tool that you need to tighten the cassette to the wheel? There are a few FR-5.2 park tools to get
What if the derailleur just blinks red and green when you try to shift after pairing? I uploaded the most recent firmware, battery fully charged. Any ideas???
Will the b tension tool work if I have a 45 tooth cassette?
Is SRAM ever going to come up with a way to power the axs derailleur from an Ebike battery?
Hey guys little confused about this setup.
Per SRAM, you’re supposed to set the chain up in full sag or remove the rear shock and you’re supposed to measure the length of the chain using the largest cog. It’s any particular reason why this is being done differently.??
Have you ordered a new tin of grease ? It looked a bit empty.:)
Does it support fatbike?N what all things I need to change for this drivetrain?
mine is honestly xx1
So I’m curious what happens if you guys try to set the chain length the way sram says? I’ve always used the bottomed out on big ring and use appropriate overlap and it’s always been successful for me. Now with the 10-52 if I do this I end up with a drooping chain on the highest gear. Have you guys ran into this? Maybe sram needs a revision
It should only droop when the bike is unloaded. If your at SAG it'll be right.
@@calvinspaeh3353 correct but it only does it with the 52t not the 50t and then when the rear wheel leaves the ground the chain droops and changes gears in the rear over rough stuff. So I end up running the chain length as if using a 50t so it’s a touch short but the alternator is tons of chain slap from the droop accompanied by the weaker clutch on AXS and then sometimes gear changes. So hopefully they’ve addressed that
I want that tool box!
Check it - ua-cam.com/video/-5OEI1oEuVw/v-deo.html
Do you use the b tension tool on a hard tail too?
Liam, bought a second hand Scott Spark RC two weeks ago with Sram Axs eagle. The front shifting is not working (changed the lcd battery..nada) looked at the AZS app and there's a shadow/black where the front shifting should be with an exclamation mark. Reached out to Sram and it's not got back to me, any advice here could it be something more fundamental like, sadly (replacing the shifting mech)
Those silent hubs are scary!!
What tool kit are you guys using in the video?
Doesn't Sram explicitly say to not ever use grease on their derailleurs? I think it already has something on it
Yeah that’s right, you are not supposed to grease the derailleur bolt
What is the chain and the number of links in this chain? I tried the Sram GX 126 links chain and it's very tight.
Oh and funny Ive been using the same chain breaker for like over 20 years…
It was a little confusing how to determine the amount of chain length needed.... and the final shifting adjustment.
I pretty much have 2 gears side by side that usually give me trouble. I make adjustments and usually the 2 problematic gears move together somewhere else on the cog. 🤷♂️ Sometimes I press the thumb paddle softly (without changing gear) and that minor tension kinda sets it in gear. Its a fine shifting art but annoying A.F.
Your derailer hanger needs to be straightened.
Work on cassete 12V cassete 11/50?
hmm for me its like at the low gear i can hear its (fighting itself) what to do
Fellas, my axs is way off at the starting position. Like way too far outboard. This is on a brand new frame and new hanger, it's not bent. It will only shift up, essentially 10 gears because it's starting position is so far out. How can I tell the derailer to start further in board? This is driving me crazy. If I have it shifted to the smallest gear it will shift the chain right off into the chain stay. If I adjust the limit screw so that the pulley is under the 10 tooth, the derailer won't shift until I press the shift twice and then it will only move 10 gears. I tried micro adjusting the 1st gear position, but it tops out before I can get it in the correct position. Please help.
does the bike have a weight limit ?
Use wera 2mm bits. They won't cam out.
IIs The XX1 And The AXS The Same? 🤔
Hmm. I'll just drop my bike off at one of your shops. :)
Axs support lower number cassete ?
If I've already got mechanical GX -52 on my bike, and I upgrade to AXS, I won't need to get a new chain, will I?
nah you'll be fine. I'd replace if you had a lot of miles on it.
Cool- thank you!!
When are we gonna start talking about that tool kit/box ?
Already did it's an entire video
Here it is - ua-cam.com/video/-5OEI1oEuVw/v-deo.html
Thanks!
Cannot get into granny gear no matter what I do with the adjustment screws
My perfect drivetrain setup is one that Mr Head Mechanic LIAM will mount on my bike 🤐
Hi. Does anyone knows If The derailleur and shifter is compatible with NX 11-50 HG sistem? I'm thinking in upgrade, but, without change my freehub for XD.
It is compatible!
Anyone running this on a gravel bike with a 42t chainring?
„I like grease“ - puts the cassette on dry 😅
new cassettes have anti-seize from the factory :)
That is correct but a little more grease wont hurt.
@@taunir713 as long as it’s the same anti-seize. I wouldn’t mix bearing grease with anti-seize tho..
@@liamwoods5353 Ah thx, would the Shimano antiseize be the right One?
@@taunir713 probably not
4:44 Warning!!! Please NOLube on the RD bolt.. that white substance is screw lock. Called ''Microencapsulated Adhesive''
How much you notice the shifting sound when riding?
Going down always, going up never!
Hey!!!! What about chain growth!! The distance between the large rear cog and front chain ring or 1x systems that account chain growth that happen when the suspension is compressed.
The official sram manual clearly shows that the shifting bolts should not be lubricated. The bolt is covered with loctite. This already shows the contradiction - loctite - grease. It's strange that no one pays attention to it.
This video seems oddly familiar...
No grease on SRAM derailleur threads!!
torque specs ?
“Theres a torque recommendation but.... fuck that.”
How about the chain rub on the cassette from 8th to 11th ring gear? The clearance is too tight if there is any for the chain..
What’s your opinion on SRAM saying: no Grease on the main Screw of the Derailleur? (SRAM install video on YT)
I heard people complaining about the Derailleur loosening.
Alloy on Alloy sometimes will bond over time, if performing regular bolt checks ive never had any issues :)
I'm not sure why they said to use grease when assembling the screw on the derailer. Some metal will react chemically when assembled (aluminum to steel) and you want to use anti seize which helps prevent this. Steel to steel (bolt/screw to threaded hole) I would recommend using a thread lock compound. Several types are made (low, medium, penetrating) which one is used depends on what you are assembling. It should go without saying that anything that is used with allot of vibration and impacts the fasteners should be checked often. It's the nature of the beast that MTB require allot of maintenance. Simply riding it and checking bolts and fasteners once in awhile your bound to have problems.
is the Blue B tension tool used for 10-50t? because i have the 10-52t cassette. just want to know. thanks. great video by the way.
There first was a red tool for OG 10-50 eagle. Then the purple/blue version came out for AXS and it should do 10-50 and 10-52. The white version is completely different and works with -50 and -52
Good explanation but it's make It's a headache to see the video in this form of photography. You need a camera in a fixed place and not a camera that moves
Don't think I'll ever move to AXS unless I get an ebike. Then I'm already worried about batteries and electronics.
Too bad it won’t work with 11 speed, not impressed with archer D1X
i wish i have bike like that for my birthday 😞
how many shifts on one battery?
Depends on how often your shifting. Refer to manufacturers specs.... Googled it 20 hours.