Handguards! Cheap Vs. Expensive: Does the Difference Really Matter
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- Опубліковано 1 лип 2019
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I like the fact that this video is not 30 minutes long. It gets right to the meat and potatoes. 👍🏼
Digging this "high-end vs budget" stuff man. Keep it coming.
As somebody who is just getting into AR builds, these videos are priceless. Keep this series going. Thanks.
Which mods have you made thus far?
@@MrWzeljunior I'm on my 3rd lower build... But have pussied out and bought complete uppers for them so far...
@@NEPAGUNTALK true but fuck springs and detents
@@Token_Black_Guy Lol... Now that I have a few builds under my belt... AGREED !!!
Good, concise video. My feeling about a handguard is: most guys want "bragging rights" regarding the brand. As long as it's free-floated, it's (almost) purely cosmetic.
The barrel nut weight is usually steel versus aluminum, but, technically, I'd concentrate more on an expensive barrel, trigger and optic.
great vid, I love the concept you've got going on here of a side by side budget and high dollar build. really helps us understand the differences and see where the value is and isnt.
Love this series Kotaboy.
I hope we get to see the actual build.
Great video. Nice to see the comparison side by side. You get what you pay for but, the budget stuff is getting better and better.
I appreciate you doing this series! Its nice to see what the difference is in the different priced parts! Thank you!
anti-rotation! key.... so despite the cheap one being a pain to time, it has anti-rotation... so actually a win there IMO
I was wondering about that. I'm new to free float and have been looking at the Stngr handguard. I can see in theirs how it's made to be anti rotation based on fit with the receiver and then there is a little nubbin on the plate that fits with the barrel nut to keep the guard from moving forward as well.
Looked like the cheap guard was set with similar ideas but what keeps the expensive one from walking forward, even with that plate installed?
The way he will be using it is relying entirely on clamping pressure, right? Or am I missing something about this process?
@@sarahgraves6759 depends which one you have some stop it from moving forward with the bolts that go through and lock with the barrel nut, some are just clamped on, if it is just clamped there is a barrel nut glue that should be used. But in my experience it is better to have anti rotation tabs, and the barrel nut that allows the bolts to slide through to prevent forward movement
@@seanrogers9863 I appreciate the information, thank you!
Not necessarily, this dude just bought the wrong guard for his upper. Midwest industries makes several variants to fit his build better. I whole heartedly endorse midwest industries. They have a far superior product
Correction... the MI has anti rotation as well. Can confirm. I have a 12” G3LW on my Recce.
I've been using Acme Machine Handguards. Some of there gen 2 HG's come with anti rotation tabs. Prices range from $60-$40 dollars. I paid $40 shipped for my 15" M-lok that's on my Aero Precision M5 Ar-10. Also most of the Acme Machine brand I think is made in the USA, but not entirely sure. Thanks for keeping what everyone else calls up the "poor's" in mind.
I've been trying to chase down a somewhat reasonably priced handguard. Never heard of acme untill this comment. You just saved me a ton. Thank you sir!
Just put an AT3 15” handguard on my boy’s AR.
Very impressed with the fit and quality and only cost $85.🤘
love this series . learning lots I never knew before thanks!
I like handguards with longer barrel nuts they just seem more solid out near the tip.
Appreciate this series, some real great work!
Great video! Very enlightening thanks for doing this series.
My last build I used an aero m4e1 enhanced upper with the aero handguard. Absolutely love it. Talk about easy to put together
Also used ballistic advantage 17.5" .223 wylde stainless barrel in hanson profile
I am enjoying this series quite a bit, I can’t do an AR build right now but hopefully that will change and I am learning a lot watching this channel. Please keep the videos like this one coming! Thank you for posting these videos and you just keep on keeping on.
I’ve had good success with the guntec style longer barrel nut, they some in steel and aluminum. They seem support the handguard better than the shorter Midwest style. Specially when handguards get in the 15” to 17” range.
Thank you for this series.. I always enjoy watching your videos. Hoping you have a great rest of your week. Happy 4th.
Recently installed a 15” AT3 hand guard on a rifle.
Impressed with the quality and was only $85.🤘
Love it bud! I really like seeing the weight comparison
Nicely done. Specially liked that you kept the prices posted during the duration of the video.
Have there been any hand guard rotation problems leaving the tab out?
Heat cycles and twisting from grip and sling attachment would concern me.
We appreciate all your hard work , KIeep it up !!
Great series, can't wait to see the groups they produce
Awesome reviews. I have been digging the ALG handguards and the Aero handguards. The ALG handguards are smooth, well finished, solid lockup, just solid pieces for a great price. The only thing is timing the nut takes a touch more work but not bad. The Aero r-one,s-one handguards are awesome also. Simple yet effective. No barrel nut timing plus the are smooth machined and nice pieces. Also have a Midwest industries on a 308 which is a nice solid handguards but my main complaint with it is the machined holes have squared off edges which are not real comfy on the the hands. I need some rail scales on it.
Love this series, keep it up!
It's usually supporting someone sending their 8 year old to little league, rather than supporting someone sending their 8 year old to work...
Digging the comparison in the build along! Good stuff as usual
Really like this series you are doing. You are the reason I considered building(ahem..assembling) 2 AR pistols. Now I want to build some custom rifles too! Thank you!
Thanks fpr the info !! Keep it coming!
Love your videos dude! Awesome.
Man your content is great! not sure why you don't have more subs. Anyway thanks.
never having had any sort of "black" rifle. this is a very good series for me to watch. thank you.
Love your channel!!
I'm so glad you weighed them! Good review.
Really enjoy the high-end vs budget series.
Same here. The only issue I ever had with Midwest industries was on an AK rail. Didn't quite fit right and I had to do a lot of dremeline and it's still a little crooked
Great Video! Been gathering parts for my Grendel build.
Went with 15“ Midwest quad rail for my AR, cost 210 but gives my ultimate in versatility and I love the aggressive look.
I like this series. Keep it up bud. As far as budget rails go, BCA has their hanguards pretty cheap. I also think Stinger handguards are worth a look too, they aren't budget, but they're also very nice handguards that include the barrel nut and wrench.
@@kylemarsun
We aren't fans of the Punisher, lol.
Hontac is my favorite affordable handguard. Made in America. 6061-T6 Aluminum. Steel barrel nut. Clamp on. No need to time the handguard. Bought one. Was going to upgrade latter. But I was so impressed. And six years latter. It’s still holding up.
I actually prefer the types of hand guards that have to be timed. They seem to be more sturdy and I trust them more, I had a MI hand guard that used the clamp on style hand guard, and had problems with it rotating on me. It seems like most companies have moved away from the clamp on type.
How could it rotate on you when it has tabs on it that literally grip the upper receiver? Hmm 🤔
@@HotBrass-Lead It was one of their older handguards, probably 10 years ago, no tabs, not the one he is showing in this video.
Something to consider. You mentioned you liked having a QD cup cut in the rail.
While not a detraction, I don't see it as a benefit either.
High end rails are made from 7075 aluminum; cheaper ones out of 6065. All studs are steel. Even high end aluminum loses to steel and will wear in short order, with use.
I prefer an M-Lok QD cup, that in addition to being made from steel, also gives you a flexibility to move your attachment point wherever you want.
Love your vids!!! I’m in the process of building my dad an AR47 for his birthday. He used to be in the army can’t wait to see that way he cycles this rifle after it’s done
@thickock45 not him, but I built one with a faxon barrel, pretty good about 2-3 moa with Steelcase amm, good function and light rifle with the gunner profile barrel paired to an alg handguard
I'm open to any suggestions or explanations, but I'm to the point that I cannot see any good reason for a manufacturer to produce a barrel nut that requires timing. The handguard can be better, more accurately secured (via tabs, grooved barrel nuts, etc.) without having a timed nut, especially when a pic rail is involved. I'm looking forward to what this series of videos produces. Keep it up.
Torque the barrel nut with the barrel onto the upper. Place the hand guard on the barrel nut and mark it and drill it for proper location.
I have the same Midwest on my last AR I just built. Great Series brother
Great series. Keep it up.
Great series! Some parts are worth spending the extra $$$ and some are not. If you pick and choose where you spend your money you can save quite a bit and still put together an accurate and fun rifle.
Do you use Locktite 609 generally when you mount the barrel? Or do you use something else at times?
I had a cheap one on an Aero that I bought. Everything was Aero except the Handguard and the Furniture. I went to put the front sight on it and realized the handguard was twisted ever so slightly. The front sight was canted the right when I cowitnessed through the Red Dot. Replaced with an MI and never looked back.
Very cool. Enjoyed this alot
Loving this series. Looking forward to the next video. specially since I'm looking to by or build a SPR/DMR set up.
The MI spacer stops the rail from rotating or sliding forward pretty important. Can make work with a little dremel work
Very Nice to watch your videos about differences on AR-15 parts, I'm from Brazil and soon AR stile rifles will be allowed to civilians here, if possible make more videos like this on milspec ar15 rifles modifications. Thank you Very much!
Barrel nuts use to have slots on them to use the wrench on & where the gas tube past through. I thought it was set up to help support the gas tube as well. This required the shims & timing. Are the slots not needed to guide or support the gas tube? And rather than time can I just grind the points down that the tube goes through? Thx 4 the vid.
This series you're doing is very informative, and it gives me a few idea's for future builds. Friends come to me to build them a rifle, I just tell you buy all the parts and build it for a fee.
I bet the MI handguard will flex more out at the tip. Always look for a long steel barrel nut, it's a big help for making the guard solid.
Reveiw of test guns is great will use your info on next build!!!!
I have a Mid State slanted hybrid handguard on one rifle. It has milled in short forward left, right , underneath rail sections, QD mounts. The handguard has key mod down the sides but mlock on the bottom. It came on a complete upper, I like it.
Enjoying the series, are you going to include hand grips, stocks, buffer tubes & buffers? I'm sure your going to compare BCGs..
I am in the middle of building a new AR10 6.5 CM and after weeks of research I can tell you with the exception of a few, very few, parts the price points are of little concern. you have to ask your self a few questions, what is your goal? ("long-range vs short-range" and "hunting vs target shooting") what is your budget? (you have a fixed price vs cheap as posable). you can build an AR10 for as low as $700 for (Hunting and plinken) or you can go all out for a long-range precision build for upwards of $3000. Personally, I put mine together with the idea that I want to do some fun long-range shooting (not precision) and first and foremost I am a hunter. My build came in at just under $1200. Honestly, you need a good set of receivers, a good barrel, and a nice scope, ALL the rest is up for personal preferences. After that half your performance is AMMO. I see absolutely no advantage in either of the two pieces in this review, the main thing I see here is you prefer Midwest Ind. on every point. this is your opinion not true quality differences.
I've used the Guntec handguards for a couple of my own builds. I have no complaints. They're modeled after the original Noveske fore-ends and the M-Lok is the correct dimensions. Good kit. The Fortis Night Rail I put on one of my last builds looks awesome and has a really easy barrel nut interface design (seriously, easiest install ever), the GunTec does the same job for nearly 1/4 the price.
Guntec is 100% Chinese garbage 😅
@@boostedbavarian its Chinese, it takes a bit more effort to co-align with the receiver, but the two I have used on training rifles are not garbage. I wouldn't put them on a duty rifle, but for the range or casual hunting, they work fine. I've had mine for years and they're still on solid. Would I recommend them over the more budget friendly options available now? Lord no.
@Cmoth040 I hear ya, I bought two carry handles from them and they claimed to be anodizing, but it was literally just black paint. Paint ball quality parts in my opinion.
@@boostedbavarian that's how their market operates. They make copies (or get designs from overseas companies) and at first, the quality is spotty. However, they do listen to the criticism. They don't generally admit it, but they make small course corrections. You know, like Glock and Sig Sauer. Slowly but surely they learn from mistakes and the quality improves. When it comes to the Chinese, you truly get what you pay for. Take a look at their newest service rifle. There's a reason it looks like 1990s era Magpul vomited all over a CMMG mutant. We sent over designs to sell on Amazon. We demanded higher quality. They learned from our shooters. Tada! That's how China has always operated.
Definitely recommend Stngr rails big time. USA made, sleak and lightweight, well priced and super easy to install. I put the 10" Stngr Hwk on my 10.5" pistol build and for $90 I dont think I could beat it for the price.
I hope the budget build shoots better than the high-end build.
The downside is that if he has any issues with that bearcreek barrel he's weeks if he's extremely lucky, but in my experience no less the 3 months to get the ram, and another 3 - 6 months for the return, they have a few good customer service reps, but that's where the good ends as there QC isn't there
I have the stngr 15" handrail. I love it and love the price even more.
Great series. When you get them built and tested, I'd like to hear your thoughts about scope mirage differences from barrel heat between the budget rifle having the solid picatinny rail on top vs the skeletonized top of the expensive rifle hand guard.
Any issues with using a bipod on Mlok? I've heard a few sources say it's not strong enough. Any known issues, bent slots or damage to the rail?
Great info and enjoy the comparisons. 👍👍🇺🇸
Loving the series. What upper and lower receivers are you going with?
this is sweet!! keep it up!
I love the vids buddy. I am drinking beers and building my new AR's while I watch. :)
I don't believe you lol.
I'd pick the Guntec handguard and use the $119 to buy over 600 rounds of .233/5.56 ammo. Nicer hand guard don't make you a better shooter; over 600 rounds of practice can.
I also think the stupid expensive one is ugly
I have a Midwest on my 5.56. It’s actually very narrow and gives me a great purchase on the rifle. It’s also light which is a bigger deal.
is 556 super inflated right now, or what? i keep seeing people throw figures like your own out there, but when i look, its like 35-80 cents a round. (not trying to say youre wrong, just want to know if its usually cheaper or something because im currently building an ar and dont remember how much it usually is lol)
Mcnuggatron I have noticed that too, even the dirty Malaysian surplus stuff is like 40-50 cents
@@pixelfire6121 huh, do you know of it used to be cheaper? Hoping it gets cheaper again if so lol
Hello. Your video’s are so informative, thank you so very much!! I was just wondering I’m building a 300 blackout and I’m going to use the Daniel Defense A4 upper receiver assembly and MOST DEFINITELY plan on using the the Midwest (which is made in the USA, if you haven’t already found out lol) ULW Ultra Lightweight one piece free floating handguard with the Proof Research carbon fiber barrel 12.5” and wondering if that lock nut ring will fit on that A4 upper receiver assembly?? Thank you and thank yo for your timely response
Ignore people that say cheap handguards are made of 6061 aluminum and high-end handguards are made out of 7075 aluminum. From what I've seen most high end handguards are also made out of 6061, but be aware like many things made in China from mystery companies,
handguards claiming to be made of 6061 may in fact be manufactured out of inferior materials. Some high end handguards may include 7075 AL, carbon fiber, titanium barrel nut. Buy what is in your budget. That may mean saving money on a handguard to spend on a better barrel or bolt carrier.
Many handguards use proprietary barrel nuts. Just be aware. Others are mated to proprietary uppers and time of of the upper receiver via screws then clamp on the barrel nut.
Love this series!
Oh, I almost forgot! Palmetto State Armory, PSA, has a reputation of having a tough Anodizing that's a pain in the butt to get off. That might make a difference if you're planning on Cerakoting or Duracoting.
I am not sure about Bear Creek Arsenal's, BCA, Anodizing.
Don't forget to check if the handguard uses a AR15 armorer's tool or proprietary wrench. Check to see if the wrench comes with the handguard. For that matter check to see if the barrel nut comes with the handguard. These are just economic and time factors to consider before ordering.
What stock style are you planning on for both rifles , collapsable or rifle? And what buffer sys. I used the JP low mass rifle buffer , a wolf reduced power spring,aim surplus lightweight BCG ,seekims adj gas block 18" PSA rifle length gas sys, wilson combat comp. All this on a Battle arms development receiver set . Runs great and recoil is like a air gun.useing a Magpul rifle stock with thick pad for added lop . have a PA 1-6 acss gen 2 on it rise armement 140 trigger i put a double star dragon skin tube handguard on it
. I love it
I like the PSA guards and the Grendel Hunter slant guard just looks sick!
Do u have to use there barrel nut or can u use the one you have on
Another option for a budget handguard is AIM Sports. Neat barrel nut design. Primary Arms has them as well as Optics Planet where you can get them Cerakoted different colors.
I recently got a s&w m&p15 sport 2 and was looking for a longer hand rail with a A2 FSP cut out... does anyone have any recommendations of ones they like/ones to avoid? I'm new to this so im assuming drop in would be better for me?
I'd pick a trinity force handguard, when they start having stuff in stock, GunTec price, mounts like the Midwest, with a no questions asked warranty
Seems like just yesterday I was shopping the BCM website to replace the plastic handguards on my neutered A2 Bushmaster. There was 2 options, an ARMS SIR rail for almost $400 or a MI 2 piece drop in quad rail for $150. Youngins don't know how good they got it these days
I've never heard anyone refer to MI as high-end. I don't have a problem with them, but they are faaar behind a, " Balls to the wall high end" product. I know you have a MK12. You know what a high-end forends is. I wish you would have done w comparison to a Ris C4, Geissele etc. They're night and day compared to your budget forened. Also, the mounting hardware especially barrel nuts are a huge factor in determining the value of a forends.
My BCA upper, BCG, barrel, & handguard work just fine. Sure the bolt sounds like a cheese grater, but so did the expensive uppers in this other video!
I feel like a BCA upper with a $150 radian BCG would outperform a lot of what’s out there.
I actually ordered that same guntec setup. I never liked the clamp on style and don't mind the shims. My plan with the swivel mount is to get a QD mlok setup. They're fairly cheap.
So i doubt I’ll get a response, but i have northwest industries handguard but it won’t fit over my 16” barrel. I was wondering if there was some armorer advice that I’m just not understanding?
That's why MI states to check with them before buying if you are using a billet receiver..... MI Rocks....
Any opinions on having anti rotation tabs on a Handguard vs non and does it make a difference
I'm for one very eager to see how the barrels compare for accuracy. I'm interested in getting a bca 223 18in with 5r lands and grooves.
My wifes 10.5 inch bca is an is a 1.5 moa barrel all day long. Noone believes it until they shoot it themselves. The fact is the barrel will always be more accurate than you are. The truth is if you plan on this building an actual battle rifle and you plan on shooting it out past 300 meters and being effective, go with a .308. Bca GUARENTEES all of there barrels 16inches and over to be Moa or less with proper ammo. Make sure you dont buy into the twist bullshit tho. Get a 1.7 so you can shoot anything 45 grain or heavier.(longer)
Actually if shooting at long distances, with heavier bullets, you'd want a faster twist. I have bullets that must be shot out of a 9" or faster twist to get best results from the projectile. Best advice I can give you, is to do your own research.
The budget one is what I call high end ,lol...but seriously I have a $30 rail on my 16" rifle I wouldn't trade for anything...I just can't pay $200 for a rail..I'd buy a complete bear Creek upper instead...that's just me tho.
DarkLight
Try paying $407 for the 15” Daniel Defense M4 quad rail.
Just installed one on my 16” BCM build
jayonez 13 is it worth it? I want one badly in fde.
Midwest Industries makes the best looking hand guards outside of Magpul. Not having to time the MI rail is a plus.
Great video and infos
Really like this new series. I myself am planning on building another rifle. I interested in BCG, trigger and gas block. I usually use SD3G and sharps XPB. The gas block I am thinking about going with the superlative arms adjustable.
Solgw bcg, geseille trigger, cmmg block
Could either barrel nut work with either handguard, or is each specific?
I bought a cheap $60 hand-guard similar to the one you reviewed. It tended to shoot a little loose and needed a lot of attention. Moved up to a BCM and it was a huge difference in quality. I have spent more money going cheap.
I didn’t hear you mention anything about the mounting design and whether one had problems with concentricity or not as the barrel floats inside of it
I have owned both those exact hand guards.... I only one one now... key takeaway: All my rifles have MI rails now.
The g3 lives on my Recce. All my newer builds rock the combat rail which I prefer on shorties.
No disrespect to the Guntec, the quality was good, the mounting system was inferior though (both in terms of needing to time it, no anti-rotation tabs, and the supplied barrel nut being made of aluminum -see later). Also the owner of Guntec responded personally to my (multiple) emails and was more than happy to swap the supplied aluminum barrel nut for a steel one. Killer customer service and it arrived super fast.
I liked the Midwest handguard when I was going to upgrade my M&P SPORT with a free float hand guard. Then out of the blue I heard about STNGR and being one to find a good deal and a quality guard I purchased a 15 inch HWK MLOC.
Was considering the same rail. What's your opinion of it?
@@thinkblue22 This is a well made product comparable to more expensive units. Also the assembly is super easy and quick. You will need an armorers wrench for the barrel nut. The people at STNGR are the best to deal with!
Been wondering this myself, $40 handguards vs $120 handguards on sale
I have a MI barrel on my 10.3 AR it’s the larger diameter and 12” so it cover my silencer. The great thing about the MI it’s easy to remove
I have a guntec handguard come on a upper, I purchase full build already and I removed to check if everything was tork correctly and put it back tork correctly and shoot it and start getting loose and I put more tork and the screws get strip because the over tork, I replace it with my favorite one, midwest industries combat rail and is been solid since then, I have about 8 or 9 midwest industries handguard never have issues with that ones.