I cannot put into words how good this video is. I am an amateur who has been wrestling with a MAC 1000w geared motor these past few months. I've literally learned every single lesson in this video the HARD way. Small geared motors are an absolute nightmare. Not only are there 90 degree angles, no room, the problem of getting the gears to mesh etc etc....but you got sharp edges everywhere too.
silicon spray is an option on the cable and tunnel to help it slide through. I would say that having 8cm of sheath free cable is okay as the end where you grip with the pliers to pull through will then mean you just cut off that 8 cm and work from there. I haven't tried it as yet but certainly a suggestion at the moment.
Excellent video . I have done external splices on rear hub motors with 'cassette issues' but am baffled trying to open up a PEDEGO hub motor to get to the inner connections. There is NO POSSIBLE WAY to open up the motor case! At least not that I can see😡😢😨 I can see zero bolts, screws, nuts, fasteners, or ability to open up the case. I gave up and bought a new motor, rim, throttle, pas, grips, controller kit....this solved the problem much easier than splicing on a new cable that SHEARED OFF because the rim nuts were not properly tightened by a professional after a FLAT TIRE REPAIR! Thanks for showing that this CAN BE DONE by a proper professional. Doing it on a pedego motor seems to be NEAR IMPOSSIBLE. THANKS AGAIN for your video presentation. You deserve an award of the highest magnitude. Searching the interwebs for this content reveals very low results. Thanks for showing us how to to it on a most difficult hub motor, that at least let's you open up the CASE. 👍👌✌💓
Thanks for the feedback and encouragement, we hope to keep making and sharing more content on servicing/repairing ebike parts. Most likely the hub motor on your Pedago is one that has a threaded side cover plate, so you need to make a special tool that allows you to grip a set of 3 or 4 notches that you'll see on one side of the hub and unscrew the plate. If they've used a glue on the threads then you'll also need a heat gun to warm the shell and soften the bonding agent.
..havnt got any real bikey tools...no vice..no experience..no muscles ...BUT.. Confidence! You gave ..with very clear, carefully filmed close ups of all that's wrong and all that might be done to make it come right! Thank you! My ebike is rock-bottom of the range..4-5 years old..(a Wayscral 315).. .its motor looks bigger and less likely to be so squashed inside. The cable, same thickness as yours, so!!! Could be eazy peazy!!
@@jeanetteleuers7329 the wires CAN be repaired, dont listen to the beginning of the video, i am a certified electrician. Simply splice as much wire as you can, apply Rosin Flux compound, apply some solder, slide over a shrink wrap, slide over a soldering butt connecter, heat up, connect, slide the shrink wrap over, heat up, connect. jobs done. Opening the motor is stupidity when there was clearly a half inch of exposed wire. I could fix that wire with 1/8 inch LOL.
@@willjay9808 thank you!!! I realised, though, that right now I can't be SURE of the problem. I looked at all the outer wiring I could see, and noticed one part of the cable to the main connection/battery was pinched and_screwed down when it obviously should not have been. If there is any kind of crack or break in the cable at that point...it could be the cause of the motor failure. It had stopped suddenly before and then fixed again...when I dismantled the battery and then banged it back with a bit of force...it was as if a jolt to the battery in its fixing, could make the wire disconnect/reconnect. I'm going to examine that wire first. Cut off the sheathing where..it feels a bit peculiar to touch, through the cover..as if a sharp bend is there somewhere...a disconnect point...everybody HOPE for me! 😁
I learned so much here, basically not to be afraid of all this stuff, all you need is the right tools and a healthy set of balls… and desperation that your motor will not work otherwise…
I use a dremel to smooth any sharp edges at the entry opening, for the cable I slide the insulation down like you do but I make sure I don't trim the nylon cord the same length as the wires so I can incorporated that into my pulling tether with the slitted insulation wrap. Also I use a wee bit of silicone spray to lubricate the cable.
Interesting, never done this but was thinking the same thing, silicone oil on the cable and leave the nylon cord for strength. A bit of lubrication goes a long way. That's what she said.
About to attempt this very thing myself. The only two things I intend to add to the approach will be 1. a small amount of lubrication applied to the cable jacket behind where the rim tape finishes and 2. The use of a reversed Quick clamp to apply the brute force to pull the cable through but hopefully with less effort and more control.
I frequently encouter the same issue pulling the cable through a too small orifice while pulling electrical cable to install swimming pool lights. I use the same method of decreasing the diameter of the outer sheathing. but leave a longer tail of the inner insulation cord and attach very strong nylon cord to it, then using electrical tape to secure it to the cable. To do this so that the cable will still fit through the races and bends, I make sure to wrap the excess cable as tight as possible to make its diameter as small as possible. The nylon cord used as a fish tape can then be doubled or tripled to add tensile strength. I also use electrician"s luble to ease it through the tight races. I'll be performing this very task this weekend on my boyfriend's bike that I crashed when some clown turned right in front of me. Those front brakes sure worked better than the rear brakes because I went ass over tea kettle over the handle bars, consussion and serious bruising. Asshole didn't even stop to see if I was okay or check to make sure I didn't sue his insurance company into the Stone Age.....I'll let you know how swimming pool technology transfers over to ebike repair. Thanks for the incredibly helpful and informative video.
4 місяці тому+2
My friend got back from the hospital and asked why he ended up there. So I showed him the reason, this video. Now he has to go back again. Bummer!
Great idea and top tip, I've never tried sourcing a replacement cable its mainly higo/julet 9 pin in the UK but in the event of another motor fail I would now consider it as an option - shame on the video ending, I would of liked to see some top tips for the internal soldering and perhaps a future video idea for replacing hall sensors and speed sensors, my attempt at a video was with my first motor and with very little skill however it worked for a while. You guys have the knowledge base and the directing skills to produce a high quality video.
Damnit.. this was my exact question... I'm trying to talk to the manufacturer or at least a distributor in China about getting the entire front hub motor and fat tire assembly replaced but I doubt that is gonna happen.. getting ahold of these people is impossible it's almost like it's done on purpose so they don't ever have to honor any warranties
If the hole where the wiring goes trough is a bit too small for new wiring use a Dremel tool, with a grinding stone on it, and open up the hole's diameter larger, so the wire slides through much easier, with less resistance. Could also use WD-40 on the wirings outer coat, and inside the hole, to allow easier, and smotther passage of the new wire.
I be never ever seen anything like it I snapped my hub cable right at the wheel this guy made it look so hard Ive never ever done any electrical or cable soldering but it was so easy don't watch this.unbelievable
The difficulty really depends on how exactly the cable run fishes through the axle. We did the video on the GMAC motors which are among the most challenging jut to show how it can be done in the worst case scenario. If the cable is just going through a straight bore to the other side without any sharp bends then of course it is much easier.
I have an alternate method. Remove about 8 inches of the outer sheath. Then take all of the wires and rap a small bit of electricians tape starting from the end to secure the unbundled wires. Aboout 1 inch is enough. Tie the loos wires every 2 inches or so that should give you like 4 points where the wire is secured until you fit the main sheath where you strpped away the 8 inches. Now get teflon plumers tape and start rapping the wires from the end of the bundle right where you put your first wrap of electrical tape. Pulling snugly on the teflon tape wrap your way up towards where you stripped away the outer sheath and extend on to the sheath for about 3 inches. Now the whole thing will easily feed through the center hole on the axel. I tried this snd it took 30 seconds to get it through.😊
So many people asking where to buy the replacement cable and not a single answer. It looks like grin used to sell this cable by the meter but that product has bee discontinued. It's strange that it's so hard to find when there's such a need for replacement cable. Waah. I need some.
The problem is that the cable we sold by the meter was larger in diameter than most of the axle bores on these Chinese motors, we had it made for our controller production not for rework of hubs. The easiest solution is just to buy a 1 meter extension cable of the same style connector as is used by the controller, like this: ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/wiring/motor-wiring/z910-ext.html Otherwise we would also often scavange the cable from motors that had other kinds of damage on them. For the motors that we make here, we sell replacement cable directly, ex: ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/wiring/motor-cables/l1019-hg6-motor-cable.html (Ideally all motor manufacturers would be so considerate ;-) )
Hi mate,can you give me help please,i did change my cable but a white wire was inside the motor unwelded , do you think that wire should be weld, .. in the screen show me a error 3
I've used two stroke petrol, squirt a bit in the axle and over the cable, it slides in, you only have one go at it so mark where it needs to stop at, then blow the petrol dry and all done.
Striping the outer jacket to allow enough wire to enter the motor then using thin-walled teflon tubing and slide the wire though the protective teflon ? Lubrication? Protection of coil windings when working on motor, cutting off damaged cable and pulling out wires individually...
Just pull inside the old cable until you get damaged area inside the motor. Than you can fix it inside the motor. Only downside is you end up with a shorter cable :))
This video is great. What would make it awesome is a source for the cable. Because otherwise, I get my hopes up, figure I can repair it, and then learn I can't get the cable. So the video just mocks me.
A lot of motors have sufficient extra cable length outside the axle that you can just repurpose what you have and shuttle it further down. You can also DIY a 3 phase motor cable using thin walled FEP shrink tubing and putting that over the flexible stranded noodle wire after removing the thick silicone insulation.
I am going to attempt this job next week.... But I have pulled Big wires through conduit and I use a Lube on the big stuff.... so I will lube the cable before I pull it through, after I do my Tape job...... and I will not cut all the wires at the same point.... I will cut each inner wire at a different length, so I will have a longer taper .... Thanks for the video and info here.... I wonder if KY jelly will work?
May I suggest a little die electric grease to help the cable slide? Not the mention it will provide some moisture prevention as well. I love your tips on how to pull the cable through.
what about any water based lubes? my damn rear brake rotor bolts came loose several times now and cut my cable, while riding tonight my motor kept applying the electric motor brake, which i never even setup, and it attempted to go into reverse while i was finishing this short but troublesome and very short ride, as i was riding it into my front yard and it ripped the wheel right out from the slots holding it in place. good times
Great video I got 3000w motor witch doesn't have temperature sensor what steps has to be taken to install temperature sensor pls advice Isit possible to just fishing the temperature sensor wire in or all the hub wires have to comes out then push the new wires in including temperature sensor wire
Communication errors are between the controller and the display, and don't have anything really to do with the connection between the controller to the motor which is covered in this repair video. So yes it is quite possible that your controller is damaged too, or you have another wiring issue with the signals, unrelated to the motor cable.
Would it be easier if while you were wrapping the tape you wrapped it around like a brake cable or a gear shifting cable? There skinny and strong but flexible. that way if the tape breaks you still have the cable underneath and it's stronger to push through to the other end and then you can just snip it when finished?
Where can I source a cable for my e scooter motor. It has hall effect sensors/wiring but my scooter doesn't them. The motor is 1200 watts peaking at 2700. How do I determine what wire gauge I need?
Just pull the motor cover off. Once it's off, all you need for the gears is a good external snap ring plier to take off the small snap rings that hold the gears on their axle stubbettes. The mid priced external snap ring plier sets with multiple replaceable end bits work well.you need a small diameter end tip. Don't bother with a set that doesn't list the end tip diameters you need the smallest or next smallest end tips to fit in those snap ring holes.
My motor has all the colored cables that go to the PCB that's fine no problem but then there's also a black and white skinnier wires coming from the same large cable but they go into the coils underneath the magnets so I'm changing my main power cable but I don't know where they connect to I don't want to rip them out so should I just cut all the color ones out and resolder to those skinny wires that are in the coils leaving the original ones in place wherever they are installed to and just connecting to them with the 2 from the new cable
@@GrinTechnologies thank you for the reply I appreciate it , I did just that and everything is working good as new now, just wasn't sure about that one wire that's all. Thanks again and take care!!!!
I would file the metal around the hole smoother , mine had a really sharp tiny burr that soon severed the cable even after being very careful by my third tyre swap . Also i now dob the hole with a glue gun after fixing to minimize any movement near the hole after refitting . Still I'm on 4000 miles now which means its paid for itself easily on fossil fuel vehicle costs. I have had all sorts weird symptoms with wire chaffing also and now am very careful on cable routing and extra wire protection over the bicycle in vulnerable places . .
The motor cable to my e-bike has been sliced by someone, cut clean roughly 8-10 inches away from the hub motor. It looks like there are 7 wires to reconnect inside there. There was never a connector. Is this repairable by adding some kind of cable connector? This is a 3 month old bike in otherwise like-new condition.
It all depends how much you charge yourself for your own labour, because it's unlikely you'll be able find someone competent you can pay to do it for you ;-)
The construction of these hub motors, is very similar, to wind turbine generators, just add the magnetic polarity. Has anybody done experiments, or reverse the polarity on these, similar to people's alternator experiments, in order to generate electricity? I love my 3000 watt motor. Debating whether I should replace the one black wire, for the hall sensor, (If possible) or locate the make of this used electric bike I bought, In order to get the proper cable, going to the hub motor. Thoughts, suggestions? Thank you so much community. Great video as well! Thank you.
There is nothing required at all to run these or any other hub motors as a generator. Just spin the hub and it will create a voltage on the phase leads, and you can either rectify that with a 3 phase diode bridge to run off the back-emf voltage directly with no regulation, or you a motor controller in regen mode to have fully programmable output voltage. Tons of people have done this in all kinds of neat power generation applications.
Hi i have a question so i been looking for a place for fix my damaged cable unfortunately i dont find any place they only recommend change the whole motor but its hard to find one with the same connection can u help me finding it ??
Hi Great video and great video quality camera. What camera model you used for this video? I can suggest you use a smooth ointment like grease or oil or even soap for spreading on the cable
Great video. Question. Some motor stems use a white "foam" or puddy to keep the cable from moving around in the stem. Do you know what this foam/puddy is called? Or can I use any type foam sealant? Can't find anything online. /bklyn 👑
48V is not considered a high voltage by any definition of the term. And yes, soldering works at any voltage, but actual high voltages (ie hundreds of volts) can have additional insulation and isolation considerations.
@GrinTechnologies oh okay I appreciate the quick responses. But truthfully I'm using a 48v controller pulling 45amps WITH a 52v battery pushing 45amps. Would I be able to use Butt connectors and crimp both wires together? If there might not be enough length? Or is soldering the best solution?
a small squirt of dry lube on the outer casing when pulling through works just fine, plus some applied on the inside Lastly, why not thread on the nuts on the axel then vise it up? so much easier.
Hi. Are you based in the U.S.? Do you have a bike shop? I have the same problem. My hub motor cables are ruined primarily because I have been riding without a torque arm. The rear hub motor twisted sometimes while I was riding and ruined the hub motor wires I had a very hard time finding a torque arm in bike stores
We're not sure what a Spule is. You can solder cables together, but not right where they exit the axle if that is where they are torn (which is usually the case in the event of an axle spinout)
I can't locate the point of break. That's why it looks like a difficult repair if even. tOtal newbie. All this happened because I had the privilege of changing my first flat. GEEZ! Thanks for the reply. 👍
I had an idea, why not strip all the wires twist the ends solder them all to a scrap piece of tough wire, feed that single wire through the bore then pull the entire cable through?
Tip if you need to clamp the threaded end use blocks of timber so the thread won't be damaged. Great video I be doing within the next couple of weeks..
This is great but my motor is big. That means I need a heavier replacement cable to take the 50 amps+ my motor draws. Does anyone know where I could get one? The motor is a 3 Kw QS 12"
Bro I need help I didn't leave a little little amount of the colored cable on there and I don't know which wire's to wire back the blue yellow and green
That's unfortunate! Taking a photo before snipping things is a good idea. If you have a controller that can auto map the hall signals it doesn't matter what order you use, but if it's not a programmable controller then yeah it will be some trial and error on your end. 6 possibilities isn't too many.
Well, luckily the repair process outlined in this video doesn't care one iota where you or we are located. Either go get your hands dirty and try to fix it as we illustrated here, or take it out as scrap metal for recycling and buy yourself a replacement motor.
You can often just chase the threads with a die to get them in good enough form, and use washers under the nut so that the nut is further out where the threads are more in tact.
@@GrinTechnologies I think these might be too far gone. Wonder if JB weld applied & then threaded would work? Used to be able to buy liquid metal that I think was good for making threads.
Hey man i have the same problem. Can somebody please tell me what kind of wires those are..I've been looking for these phase wires and all that I can find is the 9 pin connector but not the actual wires that go through the axle..
I cannot put into words how good this video is. I am an amateur who has been wrestling with a MAC 1000w geared motor these past few months. I've literally learned every single lesson in this video the HARD way. Small geared motors are an absolute nightmare. Not only are there 90 degree angles, no room, the problem of getting the gears to mesh etc etc....but you got sharp edges everywhere too.
I had to use a chisel to clean off the nylon gear edges to reassemble after 10K Km,
Love Pete's vocabulary. Richly descriptive, and ,hey, no swearing .
An honor to run across another intelligent gent who despises wasting precious time sifting out expletives while trying to survive! 🎉❤🎉
My friend is at a mental hospital now. Because he tried the same.
silicon spray is an option on the cable and tunnel to help it slide through. I would say that having 8cm of sheath free cable is okay as the end where you grip with the pliers to pull through will then mean you just cut off that 8 cm and work from there. I haven't tried it as yet but certainly a suggestion at the moment.
I’m impressed with your patience & verbal skills.
Nicely done. Appreciated
Excellent video . I have done external splices on rear hub motors with 'cassette issues' but am baffled trying to open up a PEDEGO hub motor to get to the inner connections. There is NO POSSIBLE WAY to open up the motor case! At least not that I can see😡😢😨
I can see zero bolts, screws, nuts, fasteners, or ability to open up the case. I gave up and bought a new motor, rim, throttle, pas, grips, controller kit....this solved the problem much easier than splicing on a new cable that SHEARED OFF because the rim nuts were not properly tightened by a professional after a FLAT TIRE REPAIR!
Thanks for showing that this CAN BE DONE by a proper professional. Doing it on a pedego motor seems to be NEAR IMPOSSIBLE.
THANKS AGAIN for your video presentation. You deserve an award of the highest magnitude. Searching the interwebs for this content reveals very low results. Thanks for showing us how to to it on a most difficult hub motor, that at least let's you open up the CASE. 👍👌✌💓
Thanks for the feedback and encouragement, we hope to keep making and sharing more content on servicing/repairing ebike parts. Most likely the hub motor on your Pedago is one that has a threaded side cover plate, so you need to make a special tool that allows you to grip a set of 3 or 4 notches that you'll see on one side of the hub and unscrew the plate. If they've used a glue on the threads then you'll also need a heat gun to warm the shell and soften the bonding agent.
..havnt got any real bikey tools...no vice..no experience..no muscles ...BUT.. Confidence! You gave ..with very clear, carefully filmed close ups of all that's wrong and all that might be done to make it come right! Thank you! My ebike is rock-bottom of the range..4-5 years old..(a Wayscral 315).. .its motor looks bigger and less likely to be so squashed inside. The cable, same thickness as yours, so!!! Could be eazy peazy!!
@@jeanetteleuers7329 the wires CAN be repaired, dont listen to the beginning of the video, i am a certified electrician. Simply splice as much wire as you can, apply Rosin Flux compound, apply some solder, slide over a shrink wrap, slide over a soldering butt connecter, heat up, connect, slide the shrink wrap over, heat up, connect. jobs done. Opening the motor is stupidity when there was clearly a half inch of exposed wire. I could fix that wire with 1/8 inch LOL.
@@willjay9808 thank you!!! I realised, though, that right now I can't be SURE of the problem. I looked at all the outer wiring I could see, and noticed one part of the cable to the main connection/battery was pinched and_screwed down when it obviously should not have been. If there is any kind of crack or break in the cable at that point...it could be the cause of the motor failure. It had stopped suddenly before and then fixed again...when I dismantled the battery and then banged it back with a bit of force...it was as if a jolt to the battery in its fixing, could make the wire disconnect/reconnect.
I'm going to examine that wire first. Cut off the sheathing where..it feels a bit peculiar to touch, through the cover..as if a sharp bend is there somewhere...a disconnect point...everybody HOPE for me! 😁
I learned so much here, basically not to be afraid of all this stuff, all you need is the right tools and a healthy set of balls… and desperation that your motor will not work otherwise…
True, True, and True.
and a can of silicone lubricating spray
I use a dremel to smooth any sharp edges at the entry opening, for the cable I slide the insulation down like you do but I make sure I don't trim the nylon cord the same length as the wires so I can incorporated that into my pulling tether with the slitted insulation wrap. Also I use a wee bit of silicone spray to lubricate the cable.
Interesting, never done this but was thinking the same thing, silicone oil on the cable and leave the nylon cord for strength. A bit of lubrication goes a long way. That's what she said.
My thoughts exactly while watching this…
Yes these are good points, especially leaving the reinforcement cord along with the outer sheath.
About to attempt this very thing myself. The only two things I intend to add to the approach will be 1. a small amount of lubrication applied to the cable jacket behind where the rim tape finishes and 2. The use of a reversed Quick clamp to apply the brute force to pull the cable through but hopefully with less effort and more control.
Very good info in this vid. I always wondered if it was possible to replace a damaged cable in the Hub motor.
I frequently encouter the same issue pulling the cable through a too small orifice while pulling electrical cable to install swimming pool lights. I use the same method of decreasing the diameter of the outer sheathing. but leave a longer tail of the inner insulation cord and attach very strong nylon cord to it, then using electrical tape to secure it to the cable. To do this so that the cable will still fit through the races and bends, I make sure to wrap the excess cable as tight as possible to make its diameter as small as possible. The nylon cord used as a fish tape can then be doubled or tripled to add tensile strength. I also use electrician"s luble to ease it through the tight races. I'll be performing this very task this weekend on my boyfriend's bike that I crashed when some clown turned right in front of me. Those front brakes sure worked better than the rear brakes because I went ass over tea kettle over the handle bars, consussion and serious bruising. Asshole didn't even stop to see if I was okay or check to make sure I didn't sue his insurance company into the Stone Age.....I'll let you know how swimming pool technology transfers over to ebike repair. Thanks for the incredibly helpful and informative video.
My friend got back from the hospital and asked why he ended up there. So I showed him the reason, this video. Now he has to go back again. Bummer!
Hah
This video is one of UA-cams golden nuggets
Great idea and top tip, I've never tried sourcing a replacement cable its mainly higo/julet 9 pin in the UK but in the event of another motor fail I would now consider it as an option - shame on the video ending, I would of liked to see some top tips for the internal soldering and perhaps a future video idea for replacing hall sensors and speed sensors, my attempt at a video was with my first motor and with very little skill however it worked for a while. You guys have the knowledge base and the directing skills to produce a high quality video.
Where did you order the replacement cable harness? Thanks..
Damnit.. this was my exact question... I'm trying to talk to the manufacturer or at least a distributor in China about getting the entire front hub motor and fat tire assembly replaced but I doubt that is gonna happen.. getting ahold of these people is impossible it's almost like it's done on purpose so they don't ever have to honor any warranties
grin technology wow guys seriously
Aliexpress
just shorten the old cable or attach ANY cable.
It’s a standard pre-wired L10 plug and connector, so available online. Not cheap but at least it’s a standard item
Fantastic video. So where can you buy the cable? Would any motor hub cable wire would work? Thanks for the great video. Please help.
IDEAL, makes a cable pulling lube for pulling wires in conduit, I bet this would be handy to use in conjunction with what you’re doing.
If the hole where the wiring goes trough is a bit too small for new wiring use a Dremel tool, with a grinding stone on it, and open up the hole's diameter larger, so the wire slides through much easier, with less resistance. Could also use WD-40 on the wirings outer coat, and inside the hole, to allow easier, and smotther passage of the new wire.
Thanks for this great video. Can you let me know where I might buy the cable and 9 pin connector from?
I be never ever seen anything like it I snapped my hub cable right at the wheel this guy made it look so hard Ive never ever done any electrical or cable soldering but it was so easy don't watch this.unbelievable
My hub wire is torn / chewed at the end also..how did you do it? Video looks like I need to be a pro or an idiot to work that hard.
The difficulty really depends on how exactly the cable run fishes through the axle. We did the video on the GMAC motors which are among the most challenging jut to show how it can be done in the worst case scenario. If the cable is just going through a straight bore to the other side without any sharp bends then of course it is much easier.
That’s cool and all, but how do you find the right power cable replacements for your particular bike?
shorten the old one or use any wire
hey, great video. BTW you can also solder all wires together and attach a 14 ga wire, then pull through. Great job.
I have an alternate method. Remove about 8 inches of the outer sheath. Then take all of the wires and rap a small bit of electricians tape starting from the end to secure the unbundled wires. Aboout 1 inch is enough. Tie the loos wires every 2 inches or so that should give you like 4 points where the wire is secured until you fit the main sheath where you strpped away the 8 inches. Now get teflon plumers tape and start rapping the wires from the end of the bundle right where you put your first wrap of electrical tape. Pulling snugly on the teflon tape wrap your way up towards where you stripped away the outer sheath and extend on to the sheath for about 3 inches. Now the whole thing will easily feed through the center hole on the axel. I tried this snd it took 30 seconds to get it through.😊
So many people asking where to buy the replacement cable and not a single answer. It looks like grin used to sell this cable by the meter but that product has bee discontinued. It's strange that it's so hard to find when there's such a need for replacement cable. Waah. I need some.
The problem is that the cable we sold by the meter was larger in diameter than most of the axle bores on these Chinese motors, we had it made for our controller production not for rework of hubs. The easiest solution is just to buy a 1 meter extension cable of the same style connector as is used by the controller, like this:
ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/wiring/motor-wiring/z910-ext.html
Otherwise we would also often scavange the cable from motors that had other kinds of damage on them. For the motors that we make here, we sell replacement cable directly, ex:
ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/wiring/motor-cables/l1019-hg6-motor-cable.html
(Ideally all motor manufacturers would be so considerate ;-) )
great video, for what most would consider a daunting task.
Hi mate,can you give me help please,i did change my cable but a white wire was inside the motor unwelded , do you think that wire should be weld, .. in the screen show me a error 3
You should pet the motor head gently and whisper "everything will be fine, don't worry, relax" to make it go easly
I've used two stroke petrol, squirt a bit in the axle and over the cable, it slides in, you only have one go at it so mark where it needs to stop at, then blow the petrol dry and all done.
Striping the outer jacket to allow enough wire to enter the motor then using thin-walled teflon tubing and slide the wire though the protective teflon ? Lubrication? Protection of coil windings when working on motor, cutting off damaged cable and pulling out wires individually...
Just pull inside the old cable until you get damaged area inside the motor. Than you can fix it inside the motor. Only downside is you end up with a shorter cable :))
lol great idea
This video is great. What would make it awesome is a source for the cable. Because otherwise, I get my hopes up, figure I can repair it, and then learn I can't get the cable. So the video just mocks me.
A lot of motors have sufficient extra cable length outside the axle that you can just repurpose what you have and shuttle it further down. You can also DIY a 3 phase motor cable using thin walled FEP shrink tubing and putting that over the flexible stranded noodle wire after removing the thick silicone insulation.
I am going to attempt this job next week.... But I have pulled Big wires through conduit and I use a Lube on the big stuff.... so I will lube the cable before I pull it through, after I do my Tape job...... and I will not cut all the wires at the same point.... I will cut each inner wire at a different length, so I will have a longer taper .... Thanks for the video and info here.... I wonder if KY jelly will work?
May I suggest a little die electric grease to help the cable slide? Not the mention it will provide some moisture prevention as well. I love your tips on how to pull the cable through.
A good way to de-solder the phase wires if they're large gauge is use a butane torch from a smoke shop.
vaseline is a good way of getting big things into small holes.
Hahhaha. Spit.
what about any water based lubes? my damn rear brake rotor bolts came loose several times now and cut my cable, while riding tonight my motor kept applying the electric motor brake, which i never even setup, and it attempted to go into reverse while i was finishing this short but troublesome and very short ride, as i was riding it into my front yard and it ripped the wheel right out from the slots holding it in place. good times
Well done , thank you for your insight to the task at hand
I use dialectical grease as a lubricant. Great training... ThanxAlot!
If I didn’t have damaged wires but just wanted to turn the motor cable into a quick connect plug(for convenience), do you have any videos on that?
Underrated comment!
Can you use a slightly larger reamer to open the hole to make it easier to pull cable through the hole???
Where did you get your ebike cable from?
GrinTech supplies some types. My trouble always with wiring is finding the right gauge wire.
Thanks really helpful , just wondered if you could've used a small amount of lube or vasoline.
Yup!
Excellent explanation this guy is great
Great video I got 3000w motor witch doesn't have temperature sensor what steps has to be taken to install temperature sensor pls advice
Isit possible to just fishing the temperature sensor wire in or all the hub wires have to comes out then push the new wires in including temperature sensor wire
Great work ! What a fine company !!!
Any reason you didnt put a drop of machine oil or a small burst of wd40 down the bore hole? Maybe help the jacket slide through more easily?
Note to you. Use a little electric contact grease on the side the wire that is going through.
Trying to replace a juiced hyperscrambler 1100w mac motor cable. No support from JUICED :( thank you for a general idea of what I've got to do
Would it be possible to add a cable connector to a hub motor that didn’t have one?
I have a qsmotor that is stuck. I've cut all the wires but the stator still will not spin. Any ideas why ?
Thanks
would it be useful to coat the cable with a bit of petroleum jelly so it pulls through easier?
I'm just wondering, how did the group insulation break, if it cut going thru the turns, one of the wires may have rubbed against a burr and short
I’ve made cable repair but display continues to display 30h communication error. Could it be my controller is fried from when the cable was damaged?
Communication errors are between the controller and the display, and don't have anything really to do with the connection between the controller to the motor which is covered in this repair video. So yes it is quite possible that your controller is damaged too, or you have another wiring issue with the signals, unrelated to the motor cable.
Would it be easier if while you were wrapping the tape you wrapped it around like a brake cable or a gear shifting cable? There skinny and strong but flexible. that way if the tape breaks you still have the cable underneath and it's stronger to push through to the other end and then you can just snip it when finished?
Where can I source a cable for my e scooter motor. It has hall effect sensors/wiring but my scooter doesn't them.
The motor is 1200 watts peaking at 2700. How do I determine what wire gauge I need?
what about cutting the outher sheath at a tapering angle?
External splice for me, Id repair, shrink wrap individual then one big shrink wrap over the lot ..butted to the motor.
Any tips for upgrading the internal wire gauge mine has some pretty fine wire for such a high Wattge hub
Yes, use a very thin high temperature heat shrink over the stranded wire and do away with the outer sheathing.
@@GrinTechnologies ok thanks 👍
cable lube is your best friend here!
The connector end on mine is different to any that is available to be bought can I just cut the old end off and attach it to the new cable?
Yup, as long as you know how to solder wires.
Thank you for this video. Would you consider doing one that shows how to replace the plastic cogs on this GMAC one day?
Just pull the motor cover off. Once it's off, all you need for the gears is a good external snap ring plier to take off the small snap rings that hold the gears on their axle stubbettes. The mid priced external snap ring plier sets with multiple replaceable end bits work well.you need a small diameter end tip. Don't bother with a set that doesn't list the end tip diameters you need the smallest or next smallest end tips to fit in those snap ring holes.
You should put some lightbnon conductive grease on the part going trought the hole to facilitate the job.
Why didnt you just put some oul or greese on the cable? Would that cause a problem?
would it have helped to use a little silicone spray on the wire to ease passage?
Yup. That general recommendation (lube the sheating) probably accounts for about half the comments on this video.
I know it’s been said many times but what is wrong with applying some spray lubricant just before or during pulling the cable sheath ?
Funny that Pete forgot to try that/demonstrate it that day, or he just likes a good tussle.
Question,can you guys find new spindles if the spindles are broken,i cant🌊
My motor has all the colored cables that go to the PCB that's fine no problem but then there's also a black and white skinnier wires coming from the same large cable but they go into the coils underneath the magnets so I'm changing my main power cable but I don't know where they connect to I don't want to rip them out so should I just cut all the color ones out and resolder to those skinny wires that are in the coils leaving the original ones in place wherever they are installed to and just connecting to them with the 2 from the new cable
Most likely it is for a motor temperature sensor. Resoldering to those leads would be the best bet.
@@GrinTechnologies thank you for the reply I appreciate it , I did just that and everything is working good as new now, just wasn't sure about that one wire that's all. Thanks again and take care!!!!
A job l have to do of which I'm not looking forward too. Good vid
I would file the metal around the hole smoother , mine had a really sharp tiny burr that soon severed the cable even after being very careful by my third tyre swap . Also i now dob the hole with a glue gun after fixing to minimize any movement near the hole after refitting . Still I'm on 4000 miles now which means its paid for itself easily on fossil fuel vehicle costs. I have had all sorts weird symptoms with wire chaffing also and now am very careful on cable routing and extra wire protection over the bicycle in vulnerable places . .
The motor cable to my e-bike has been sliced by someone, cut clean roughly 8-10 inches away from the hub motor. It looks like there are 7 wires to reconnect inside there. There was never a connector. Is this repairable by adding some kind of cable connector? This is a 3 month old bike in otherwise like-new condition.
Yup. You can solder the wires all back together as they were with no connector, or use this opportunity to add one as you wish
I have this problem but with a bigger 1000w rear hub motor. How much would this cost (roughly) to fix?
It all depends how much you charge yourself for your own labour, because it's unlikely you'll be able find someone competent you can pay to do it for you ;-)
The construction of these hub motors, is very similar, to wind turbine generators, just add the magnetic polarity. Has anybody done experiments, or reverse the polarity on these, similar to people's alternator experiments, in order to generate electricity? I love my 3000 watt motor. Debating whether I should replace the one black wire, for the hall sensor, (If possible) or locate the make of this used electric bike I bought, In order to get the proper cable, going to the hub motor.
Thoughts, suggestions?
Thank you so much community.
Great video as well! Thank you.
There is nothing required at all to run these or any other hub motors as a generator. Just spin the hub and it will create a voltage on the phase leads, and you can either rectify that with a 3 phase diode bridge to run off the back-emf voltage directly with no regulation, or you a motor controller in regen mode to have fully programmable output voltage. Tons of people have done this in all kinds of neat power generation applications.
Hi i have a question so i been looking for a place for fix my damaged cable unfortunately i dont find any place they only recommend change the whole motor but its hard to find one with the same connection can u help me finding it ??
Pd my bicycle its a hurley Bigswell Neco rear motor M58CD
need a new axle for my das-kit 500w shaft spun :( going nuts trying to find replacement and some torq arms
Hi
Great video and great video quality camera.
What camera model you used for this video? I can suggest you use a smooth ointment like grease or oil or even soap for spreading on the cable
Great video. Question.
Some motor stems use a white "foam" or puddy to keep the cable from moving around in the stem. Do you know what this foam/puddy is called? Or can I use any type foam sealant? Can't find anything online.
/bklyn 👑
Usually it's a white silicone based sealant, we've never seen any using a foam product.
Is your store in the tri-state area?
I need help with this desperately
Can this soldering process work with high voltage cables? Like a 48v 1500w cable to be precise
48V is not considered a high voltage by any definition of the term. And yes, soldering works at any voltage, but actual high voltages (ie hundreds of volts) can have additional insulation and isolation considerations.
@GrinTechnologies oh okay I appreciate the quick responses.
But truthfully I'm using a 48v controller pulling 45amps WITH a 52v battery pushing 45amps.
Would I be able to use Butt connectors and crimp both wires together? If there might not be enough length?
Or is soldering the best solution?
Have you ever tried a little bit of dishwashing liquid on the cable?
Jim Carey look alike! Very well explained
a small squirt of dry lube on the outer casing when pulling through works just fine, plus some applied on the inside
Lastly, why not thread on the nuts on the axel then vise it up? so much easier.
Hi. Are you based in the U.S.?
Do you have a bike shop?
I have the same problem. My hub motor cables are ruined primarily because I have been riding without a torque arm.
The rear hub motor twisted sometimes while I was riding and ruined the hub motor wires
I had a very hard time finding a torque arm in bike stores
Hi Green tech, thank you for this video. Very interesting.
I have just a question : why we cannot solder the cable directly on the Spule ? thank you
We're not sure what a Spule is. You can solder cables together, but not right where they exit the axle if that is where they are torn (which is usually the case in the event of an axle spinout)
I broke a strand of the copper wire coil while desoldering the phase wires. Can it be repaired?
Usually yes, just scrape off the enamel so that the solder has a good surface for bonding.
I can't locate the point of break. That's why it looks like a difficult repair if even. tOtal newbie. All this happened because I had the privilege of changing my first flat. GEEZ! Thanks for the reply. 👍
I had an idea, why not strip all the wires twist the ends solder them all to a scrap piece of tough wire, feed that single wire through the bore then pull the entire cable through?
How about a little cable lube? Yellow 77 perhaps etc etc
Tip if you need to clamp the threaded end use blocks of timber so the thread won't be damaged. Great video I be doing within the next couple of weeks..
looks like the hardest part is running the wire through properly
This is great but my motor is big. That means I need a heavier replacement cable to take the 50 amps+ my motor draws. Does anyone know where I could get one? The motor is a 3 Kw QS 12"
Also wouldnt a better way be to removel the spindle completely then re installing it with the wire already placed in the bore holes?
what do you do when the outer casing of the cable gets stuck in the axle
Tweezers if they can reach, other long metal pokey things if they can't.
Thank you. Thats nuts.
@4:21 The dentist pose! 😂
This is exactly what they make wire pulling lubricant for.
Grease?
Could you put a smear of silicone lub on the outer cable
Bro I need help I didn't leave a little little amount of the colored cable on there and I don't know which wire's to wire back the blue yellow and green
That's unfortunate! Taking a photo before snipping things is a good idea. If you have a controller that can auto map the hall signals it doesn't matter what order you use, but if it's not a programmable controller then yeah it will be some trial and error on your end. 6 possibilities isn't too many.
Where I can I get a replacement cable for a bafang 750 hub motor?
Are you UK based? I have the exact same problem where the cable has broken in the exact same position as yours.
Well, luckily the repair process outlined in this video doesn't care one iota where you or we are located. Either go get your hands dirty and try to fix it as we illustrated here, or take it out as scrap metal for recycling and buy yourself a replacement motor.
Is there a repair for damaged motor axle threads or is this a case of replacing the entire inner armature assembly? Thank you.
You can often just chase the threads with a die to get them in good enough form, and use washers under the nut so that the nut is further out where the threads are more in tact.
@@GrinTechnologies I think these might be too far gone. Wonder if JB weld applied & then threaded would work? Used to be able to buy liquid metal that I think was good for making threads.
HET thats is a reverse circumcision technique used in oil industry to feed cables bravo
Hey man i have the same problem. Can somebody please tell me what kind of wires those are..I've been looking for these phase wires and all that I can find is the 9 pin connector but not the actual wires that go through the axle..
Every motor is different so you might want to email our tech support with more info on what you're running!