SAAB 93 POWER STEERING PUMP
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2018
- Power steering pump leaks are very common, the pump can leak externaly through an O-ring that connects the Tank to the pump, this part is not available OEM, an O-ring with ID15.54 OD20.78 or around that should do the job.
Or an internal leak in the form of fluid exchange between engine oil and PS fluid which will either cause a low PS fluid level or an overfill, caused by the shaft seal PN12807425.
Last is an engine oil leak from the seal between the pump and the engine PN12801788.
Enjoy the video. - Авто та транспорт
Here is the exact Viton seal you need to replace the failed nitrile rotary seal: skf cr 17x30x7hmsa10v. The OEM nitrile seal has poor temperature tolerance (100C). When you do this be sure to get the Viton seal which will not fail as it is rated to 200C. Great video thanks.
Viton (also called FPM) does not like cold weather as it is rated for only -15 degrees Celsius. Nitril (also called NBR) can handle cold weather down to -35 degrees Celsius. So I would only use Viton if I lived in a place where the outside temperature never goes below -10 degrees Celsius. According to SKF the seal you recommended can only withstand -20 Celsius during use.
Safest bet is to always use what the original manufacturer used.
Another great video. I also tracked down a leak in my P/S to the o-ring between the reservoir and the pump. Being lazy, I decided to try replacing it without removing the whole pump - just the reservoir. I knew that the top clip would be easy. And that the bottom clip would be nearly impossible - but I wasn't going to let that stop me from trying. I discovered, entirely fortuitously, that if you remove the top clip then the bottom clip acts like a spring-loaded hinge. I was able to pull down the reservoir, remove the old o-ring, seat the new o-ring (ID16mm/OD21mm NBR), push the reservoir back in, re-install the top clip and top up the reservoir in about 10 minutes. It's not often I have a win but I'm definitely chalking this one up.
The 16/21 o-ring was noticeably larger than the original but it seated OK and the connection between the reservoir and pump body felt very solid as I put it all back in place. It's been a week now and no sign of any more leaks. Happy days.
Excellent video. I have searched high and low for this video and yours is awesome. Thank you so much! Bravo!
My next project, great source for Saab Repairs.
Best example to date I've seen thanks! 🖒🖒
This is exactly where mine was leaking from. I did the main pump seal and shaft seal to the motor side of the pump and was mad it still leaked. This helped a ton with the size when I was at Orielly looking through their red bin of rings!
Awesome excellent tutorial mine has recently started to leak so thats a job to be done.
I have this exact issue in my 9-3 vector, seems an inherent issue with a shaft driven power steering pump as opposed to an isolated belt driven design which is much more common nowadays
Thank you. Saved me a lot of stress lol
Great helpful vid. Thank you so much😊
Great work through manual. Just did it on 2005 9-3 2.0. Two more cars (2006 and 2007) to go :)
I'm already done putting the vaccum I'm half ways I have to take that center gasket I took a brake right now I got the essab package I had a nipple on my big oring thank you for ur video that's how I did my job
The nipples is caused by the casting in the head, it doesnt come from factory, so once u put the new one it will be indented in it next time u remove it
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Man your videos are all awesome. Thank you so much. My favorite video is the one that helped me fix my shifter. It would occasionally not engage drive when coming out of neutral, even though I would place it in drive. I followed your steps in the "too much play in shifter" video and it fixed it perfectly.
I recently used this video to change the seals on my PS pump, as well as the O'ring. I also flushed the system after. Everything worked perfectly for a couple of days, but by day 3 I heard groaning noises when turning the wheel while vehcile was cold. I believe I have air in the system, as I see bubbles in the fluid and when I checked O'ring connection, its leaking a little. The O'ring I used was from a Nitrile 0-ring kit and had 15.8mm ID and 2.4mm thickness (20.6 OD). It seems to have failed. I'm going to go and try to find a size 114 O'ring, take out the unit and redo the O'ring. Will the air in the system damage my pump? Do you think I should take care to make sure the little nipple created on the outer seal from suction into engine seats back into the same area or is that not a big deal and will the seal reshape to new location? Any suggestions in general? Thank you so much!
by the way, i used a little permatiex di-electric grease on the seals. Is that essentially the same as the silicone lube you are using?
TheFreeLifeForm hi there, in glad my videos helped.
Permateix is fine.
U dont have to relocate that nipple on the seal.
Air bubbles should disappear after turning the steering wheel few times.
If they dont, here is what to check.
Are u using the correct fluid ? This pump is sensitive to fluid, do not use ATF.
If that O-ring between the pump and the tank failed, it could draw air into the pump causing the noise, the only way of checking if u done a good job sealing the pump, is to blow into the tank as shown in the video.
Let me know if u need further help
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thank you so much for the reply. Yes I used pentosin chf 11s for the fluid. I did the blow test when installing, but due to my inexperience, I wasn't sure if it was a good seal. It seemed pretty tight, but it also seemed like a very slight amount of air may have been getting blown out from somewhere. I'm going to redo the O'ring since i've visually confirmed it to be leaking and follow up. Thank you! :)
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Just a follow up: I took the pump out 4 days ago, changed the O-ring with a size 114 National Oil Seal O-ring (15.54mm ID, 20.78mm OD, and 2.62mm CS), and refilled the fluid. I think its the perfect size. I have driven a little over 300 miles so far and have had no issues with leaks/air getting into the system. The previous O-ring I was using just wasn't thick enough. Thanks for your help.
I like more when you speak. Great video tho. I'm going to do this to my 03 Saab 1.8 t tuned to 200hp.
After doing this, it does look to me like the design flaw is in the way the reservoir snaps into the pump with that single O ring making the difference between whether fluid stays, or goes. It's also gotta be kinda scary dumping that $45-a-can fluid in after you do all that and remount the pump. I guess it's not easier to test that the reservoir-to-pump connection holds before putting the pump on, so you have to just hope everything works in the end. I am about to put the pump back on.
I actually check them for leaks the good old way @13:55
That last gasket had me cursing and throwing tools in my garage. 😅
🤣🤣🤣
good time to mark the notch location on the outer gasket before removal, aligns with head. If you have an inner seal leak or regardless, now is the time to flush the p/s system with fresh fluid. This should be completed or you will be replacing the rack shortly after with all the engine oil and stale fluid in it. The system is easily flushed.
Joeybabbs .BABBS not sure about the notch u r talking about, but i think that not required if u r replacing the gasket. i would do the flush if the seal was broken, but in this case it was actually preventive maintenance .. thanks
My reservoir didn’t even have a gasket on it to connect to the pump lol. I have an 04 93
Flying MechanicDIY, Thank you so much for this very informative video. I have a 2008 9-3 2.0t and noticed recently tiny amounts of 'oil' on the drivers side of the engine dripping ever so slowly to the ground. On my hands and knees, it did not smell like engine oil and did not have the color or tranny fluid. I notice zero steering resistance nor the horrible sound of too little fluid. I traced the leak back up to somewhere on the the steering pump but I can't tell if it's the reservoir to pump or camshaft to pump. Maybe the airflow spread the fluid around at highway speed? I bought all the required seals as well as 2 metal clamps for the high-pressure hose and lower reservoir just to be safe. I'll be doing it my self next week thanks to your really good video. By the way, I don't know if it's proper here to mention where I got the parts but 4 of the 5 are Saab OEM from Europe but available up in Connecticut!
I really appreciate your videos. The mechanic here in Florida told me that only a re-built is available to my car. Typical.
mark aronoff PS fluid can only leak externally through the O-ring between the pump and reservoir, but i always do the triple seal built, cheap enough, the fluid is more expensive to replace multiple times
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Many thanks my friend. Since I already ordered all seals, I'll do them all. As I examine the area under the reservoir, it is hard to tell whether the leak is between the pump and the reservoir. That would involve one seal. So as long as I'll remove that tank, might as well replace both pump seals. I really appreciate your advice. Best regards, Mark
@@markaronoff5641 do you have the link to the seals?
How did the seal replacement job go for you?
I did this job a little over a year ago due to leaks from multiple spots around the pump, and it hasn't leaked ever since. But for the past three months the power steering stopped working intermittently, like one day I can start it up and it works fine, then it stops working for several days, then magically starts working again for days. But it's completely stopped the past 3 weeks. No leaks anywhere, not at the pump, not from the lines, not at the steering rack, nothing, and level on the stick sits just below Max. I'm stumped, do you think the pump died?
just in case someone is looking for the seals/gaskets to do this job, there is a kit on 'esaabparts.com' that comes with 5 seals to fix power steering leaks and/or oil mixing problems.
How much is the seal kit?
Cost is around $40 plus shipping.
Question: where did you purchase the green "o" ring, sealing the reservoir and pump? And does it have to be green?
Hi there, no it doesn’t have to be green, u have to find it by size, i included its size in the video description .
if the engine oil gets into the hydraulic oil does it ruin the pump and power steering mechanism?
Yes
So its that easy to change the power steering pump? I need to replace mine and its going to cost $300 something to get done but if its that easy i can do it myself..
How did the replacement go? Was it still a DIY job for you?
I just replaced both fronts CV axles, 06 9-3 2.0 and used your cable trick 👍. My steering recently got very heavy feeling, before axel change. It doesn't want to return to center like it did before. Pump isn't making any noise and works fine engine on at idle. Any ideas what to look for. Great content thanks so much for taking the time to share.
If u r using the OEM fluid and its not contaminated with engine oil and looks fresh green, then its the pump, u can try pulling the bypass valve at the pump, inspect it, replace the o-rings and try ..
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY thanks for the reply
Hey guy. Hope you see this. Do you need to bleed anything at all or just go full left them full right on the steering wheel?
Bleed procedure is mentioned in the video. No left right required unless u want to flush the complete sustem
You can use a mirror, preferably an endoscope so you don't have to work blind at video 1:25 ...
Hi, How would you know you have engine oil mixed with PS fluid because the seal has failed? Is there a way of testing/checking?
PS fluid drops with no external leak, Engine oil level increases .. or the other way around
if u want the extra mile, add DYE to the PS fluid .
how many vanes are in the pump the metal inserts that slide in the slots ? I think my pump is missing one
Dont know the number , but all the slots should have a vane in them
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY I'm thankful to your reply
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Quick question: After replacing my seals and adding ps fluid, i noticed that the pump was pushing the fluid into my engine. Do you know what is causing this?
The main seal is bad/wrong/installed incorrectly
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thank you for the reply. I took apart the pump assembly, verified the seals were properly seated (purchased genuine Saab seal) confirmed correct fitment and still same problem. Bad pump?
@@yassirc3681 did u scratch or dent the sealing surface or the shaft ???
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY No. I thought the pump was bad, so i purchased a remanufactured one from Napa, same problem, oil keeps getting sucked into engine.
@@yassirc3681 the problem cannot be from the engine side, it must be that both pump are bad, usually the seal 100% unless the pump is visually damaged/cracked …etc
Flying mechanicDIY, what are you using to clean the pump body? degreaser? wd40? water? Carb cleaner?
Start with WD40, then final rinse with brake cleaner ..
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY gnarly, thanks! great video! I just bought a 2006 saab 93 and have fixed a bunch of various things/ watched a few of your videos I consider them excellent reference content while actively working.
I need the o-ring between the reservoir and pump - the one without an OEM part...any place online where I can find it?
I used one with ID15.54mm OD20.78mm
U can use any one round these numbers
Max ID 15.8 Min OD 19.8
Found a close enough one in a kit number 67609.
Eeuroparts.com lists one under part number 101E00054
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thanks for your help - and the great video. I plan to tackle this as soon as I can get my hands on that o-ring.
Thanks for ur video I couldn’t find the size for the o ring that connects to the power steering pump tank but u helped a lot ....
eSAABparts looks like they sell a P/S seal replacement kit
hi, thanks for a very informative video. I am experiencing some issues with steering wheel getting stiffer i.e. having more resistance and I have checked the PS fluid and it seems contaminated with oil. Could these be the symptoms of a bad gasket between the pump and the cam? I've pumped out about 200 ml of contaminated fluid and replaced it with fresh one and the steering felt almost normal for a while. Would changing out the gasket and flushing the system cure this problem? Thanks and best regards!
I cant guarantee the solution based on the symptoms alone.
But if u have a contaminated fluid, then u must do this job anyway, and if u r lucky u could save the pump
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY thanks for the reply. Do you maybe have any advice on flushing the whole power steering system? Cheers, Luka
lux with the tank empty, and the return hose disconnected, plug the opening of the tank(where the return hose connects) and connect the return hose to another hose to dump fluid somewhere.
Fill the tank with fluid, start the car and turn the steering wheel immediately, 2-3 seconds & shut down the car, refill with fluid and restart the car.
Repeat until the fluid is totally clear.
Don’t let the fluid level go low during the procedure, and its ok if u fill the tank all the way to the top (as long as u correct the level by the end of the flushing steps)
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY thank you very much for the valuable advice! Will do it as soon as I get the seals I ordered. Cheers and best, Luka
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY One more question if I may. Does the seal also let any hydraulic oil enter the engine? is it wise to change the motor oil also? Best, Luka
Mine was low and making whining noise. I topped off with fluid, purged the air, but the noise persisted. There is definitely leakage from the bottle to pump gasket, but the fluid appears to be clean inside the bottle free of engine oil. Do you think that replacing the seals and filling with new fluid will make the noise go away? Or is it a faulty pump? Power Steering seems to be working.
Usually its a bad pump, r u using the correct hydraulic fluid ?
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY that's affirmative, I am using CHF-11. Thank you for the input. I might try a remanufactured unit from the local auto parts store.
How much do mechanics charge for this exact job? In the uk
No idea in UK, its around a 2 hours job
So after watching ur videos I’ve been fixing most of my problems on my 2004 Saab 93 arc except this ticking noise on cold start about a minute or so and it goes away. Would appreciate if anybody can tell me what it might be
Its most probably chain noise, usually from a broken tensioner .
U have to check the balance chain tensioner (watch my video for it) and the timing chain tensioner
The Flying MechanicDIY I will definitely will do that, but to add more info this happened after I change my power steering pump from a junk yard
zesowl i cant see any relation, could be the pump having an internal issue but i doubt it.
Better if u record it in a clear video
The Flying MechanicDIY man I can’t thank you enough how much help you’ve been, my friend swear the noise was from the water pump it took me a week to replace it and the freaking noise was still there so like you said I opened the engine cover you called it, the chain guide was broken off and sting at the bottom the noise was coming from the chain sawing the tensioner literally. I was shocked it didn’t snapped l, swapped the tensioner and the guide now it is working like a charm. Again bing thx to you
Fortunately mines not leaking - however having it changed as cars done 100k - seal is about £10
Great video 👌
I replace this seal however I am still getting the leak, does this indicate a bad pump? I still have engine oil coming into the reservoir. Should I do the job again?
There is nothing beside the seal that cause this issue, make sure u gave the correct seal and from good brand, install it correctly, and inspect the inner surfaces for any damage u mightve caused during the removal of the old seal
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY I went to a junk yard, pulled a used pump and replaced the seal on that pump as well. I put the pump on with the new seal and it happened again! I can't imagine what I'm doing wrong, I literally got the kit from esaabparts and followed the instructions down to the torque! Has this ever happened that the first two tries were botched?? I'm still getting a slow oil leak.
Andrew Cotronea where are you getting the leak from exactly ?
Is the leak coming from the reservoir cap?
Would a new pump come with new seals?
yes it does
What cleaning solution did you use in the process? I am about to fix my leaky power steering!
Start with WD40 to loosen dirt, then wash off with brake cleaner .
If this pump is malfunctioning, can you still drive the car? Or is it an emergency situation where it needs to be taken offroad and garaged until the pump is replaced?
Depend on how it is malfunctioning, if the pump runs dry on fluid it can jam and breaks the camshaft which will destroy the engine .
@TheFlyingMechanicDIY ok. so i need to ground it then looks like. on mine the reservoir is empty. i couldn't figure out where that leak was coming from and was targeting the brake booster vacuum pump. so i have to take this off and rebuild it, or buy a new pump or a remanufactured one. i don't know if the new ones i see are as solid as the original Maval ones. I see remanufactured Mavals going for about $150 on eBay. Maybe I will get one where someone has already done this rebuild, and then rebuild mine and have it as a backup? Does that make sense? What do I need to know if I just pull old one and install new one? Is it as straightforward as pull off, bolt on and connect new one and add fluid to reservoir?
@@drummin2dabeat i would just rebuild mine, specific rebuild kit is available in eBay for about 35$ and relatively easy to do
@TheFlyingMechanicDIY ok i bought the kit. hopefully your video helps me get it done efficiently and properly. i guess the chance of the pump itself being shot is not to be too concerned about? just pull it off, replace washers and it should work fine?
@@drummin2dabeat if you bought the complete rebuild kit then watch my other video about the V6 power steering pump, they are similar, that video has good rebuild info
Do i need to flush fluids before doing this ? Oil from engine and all the power steering fluid ?
Flush the PS fluid as soon as u r finished with the job, by unplugging the return line from the tank, filling the tank with new fluid and turning the steering wheel left once and right once until u see new fluid coming out from the return line.
Engine oil, u can stick with ur current replacement interval , no need to flush.
Ok thank you ! Awesome video !
I'm a little confused, won't the fluid run out of the tank as I fill it ? If I have the return line removed ? Sorry I'm not much of a mechanic just want to be sure I do it right.
SoccerStylin im sorry i didnt mention that exactly, but u r right, and u should plug the tank opening
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY ok I'll find something to plug it with. Thanks alot man appreciate the help. I Will be starting this job tomorrow on my 2005 9-3
That stupid o ring that’s super wide, I can’t get it out for the life of me, I’m only on the inside though, so I’m going to try and pry from the outside, but it’s such a pain
It looked like it would come out easily?
@@kevintucker3306 I just needed to pry at it more and I got it, that wasn’t even the biggest issue with my job, the biggest issue was that my kit didn’t have the right size o-ring that seperates the reservoir and the pump so I had to go to harbor freight and buy 382 o-rings just for 1 that was pretty much the same size
@@ittueaday ugh that stinks. I thought esaabparts kit had all 5. My mechanic says only fix is to replace pump assembly. So I'm going to have to do this procedure myself, I think. Thanks for the tips!
@@kevintucker3306 I bought an eBay kit, so not esaab kit specifically, they might have the right o ring in that kit
What did you use to clean it
WD40 and brake clean
WHERE ARE YOU AT !!
happysawfish located at Dubai, but only works on private car group
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY : Wow. I bet its pretty amazing over there. Thanks for letting me know. I may have to ask you about Saab issues later, if that that would be permissible.
happysawfish .. anytime man
When I took my reservoir off my pump there was two O-rings inside the pump shaft (where reservoir connects to pump) They were two different sizes. I was only expecting the 1 o-ring. The bigger unexpected one fits right inside the shaft hole, basically resting on the first ledge. I ordered the 1 o-ring I was expecting off esaabparts.com PN 12807476 because I had a leak between reservoir and pump. I also changed the outer shaft seal PN 12801788 just to be safe. Should I take out the extra o-ring or leave it? Any suggestions? Has anyone seen 2 o-rings where pump and reservoir meet?
For size reference. The o-ring that I wasn’t expecting is a little bigger than the size of a nickel. The other o-ring is a little bigger than the size of a dime.
There is no 2 orings there, somebody probably put it there previously to stop the leak, remove the old ones and install the single new one, just make they go snug into each other.
lots of small annoying issues on this car. simple design flaws. going through the following issues on my 2008 saab 9-3 2.0T manual with only 80k miles on it.
1) ac compressor clutch bearing replacement (very noisy bearing)
2) slowly leaking power steering pump (same as in video)
3) broken front springs (both sides broke at the bottom)
4) strut bearings
5) stiff shifting issue from neutral (kit available to solve this)
'other than these small things, these cars are solid.
Just dont confuse the noise from the compressor being the bearing .. it is actually usually the Compressor itself shot .. is the noise louder with the A/C ON or OFF ?
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY you're right. I just took the compressor apart 10 minutes ago and came to the conclusion the noise is internal to the compressor not the clutch bearing. the noise comes when you turn the AC on, barely keeps cool. the clutch bearing itself which I took out is perfectly fine. looks like new compressor on the way....
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY a while back when the issue started I had to jump the AC relay to get the AC moving again.
still cooled for a while but eventually faded in time. noise is really annoying.
A P couldve saved u the hustle if u asked before 😬
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY you think I should replace the condenser as well?
Idk where my fluid is going I can’t see a leak would u have any idea
The fluid leaks through the shaft seal into the engine oil.
The Flying MechanicDIY wow that’s probably it and you know what I didn’t notice is that I didn’t snap the reservoir into place like you did in this vid so I should get a 21 mm socket and bang the seal into place?
You should drive the seal gently as far as possible, snapping it on wouldn’t matter as long as it is not leaking, but usually it will not snap on because of a wrong size O-ring.
The Flying MechanicDIY yeah I didn’t see anything leaking so I’m pretty sure the seal I replaced wasn’t all the way in
The Flying MechanicDIY if it’s a new seal and I didn’t put it in properly then do I need a new one or should I just try to put the seal in the right place
Where did you get the kit
VITO SCOTTI local dealer in Dubai, however u can buy the parts from esaabparts.com or eeuroparts.com
Does the kit come in rubber gaskets to say I don't want to use the seals?