Great work, well done. Next time, if you are unsure if the decals are old and might break during application, spray a coat of satin or gloss varnish over them and leave them dry overnight. That should do the trick.
1. I’ll never use the dozen bottles of Stymlrez primer I bought again; it’s gum-like. Almost like liquid mask. 2. Mr. Brucca: when can we see you do some “heavies “ like the Konigstiger or Jagdtiger?
Great stuff dude. What did you think the base coat with? It went down really well. I like the production quality of your videos. I enjoyed hearing you speaking over the top of the build and paint videos , maybe have more of that. Keep it up buddy
It is possible that the decals are old. Other then that nice paint job. How did the Mr Hobby clear coat react with the Tamiya paints? I just found out last week, according to the Mr Hobby Clear coat web instructions, that it should not be applied over water based paints. I am interested to know if your paint job had any reactions / side effects.
@@brucca-nyc8790 I see... In this vid, is the airbrush equipped with the original needle and nozzle? It amazes me that you can make that tidy of patterns with the Iwata hp c plus.
One thing that continues to bemuse me is the sometimes reflexive use of putty mixed with liquid cement to form armor “texture.” I get it if the kit is devoid of injection molded detail in this regard. Nor do the turrets and casemate need more material on them to stand out. I don’t hear the explanation here for why it seems the sides of the upper hull and turret were slathered with texture. To my mind, on a high end kit, these added elements are to be avoided absent a patent need for such. Every artist is free to use license to make their own designs and elements, but I’d like to know why they are making those choices so we can have a helpful dialogue. I think the many novice modelers who see the armor texturing will believe they are “missing out” and potentially ruin a build (I know, it happened to me), for such aggressive elements it should be clearly stated as to why IMHO
![Panther Type G Late Version - Part 1 - 1/35 Tamiya - Tank Model - [ model building ]](/img/n.gif)
Oh, and excellent work Sir!
Thank you kindly!
Great video as always looking forward to next one ...
Thanks 👍
Good job .
Thanks
Looking very good so far.Great job freehanding the camo 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Excellent video my friend the cammo looks great stay safe 👍🙏
Thanks, you too!
Very good cammo & airbrush work.
More videos please.
Liked and subscribed.
Greetings from the UK.
More to come!
Very nice Panther. Well done. It would be good to see it on a diorama.
Maybe one day..lol
Great work on the camo. All heading in the right direction
Thanks 👍
Looks amazing!
Thank you!
Nice model 🙂👍
Thanks 😀
Great work, well done. Next time, if you are unsure if the decals are old and might break during application, spray a coat of satin or gloss varnish over them and leave them dry overnight. That should do the trick.
Thanks for the tip! Will try next time.
great paint work. which airbrush do you use?
Thank you so much. I think i used the Iwata Medea High Performance Plus C Dual Action
1. I’ll never use the dozen bottles of Stymlrez primer I bought again; it’s gum-like. Almost like liquid mask. 2. Mr. Brucca: when can we see you do some “heavies “ like the Konigstiger or Jagdtiger?
Great stuff dude.
What did you think the base coat with? It went down really well.
I like the production quality of your videos.
I enjoyed hearing you speaking over the top of the build and paint videos , maybe have more of that.
Keep it up buddy
Thanks for commenting. I appreciate it. I thinned it with tamiya lacquer thinner. 50/50
It is possible that the decals are old. Other then that nice paint job. How did the Mr Hobby clear coat react with the Tamiya paints? I just found out last week, according to the Mr Hobby Clear coat web instructions, that it should not be applied over water based paints. I am interested to know if your paint job had any reactions / side effects.
Thanks!
Is that the Iwata hp c plus that you use sir?
Yes indeed! Good call!
@@brucca-nyc8790 I see... In this vid, is the airbrush equipped with the original needle and nozzle? It amazes me that you can make that tidy of patterns with the Iwata hp c plus.
@@annanbejat1578 Thank you so much. Yep, original .2 needle and nozzle with paint thinned greatly and air pressure set on low
One thing that continues to bemuse me is the sometimes reflexive use of putty mixed with liquid cement to form armor “texture.” I get it if the kit is devoid of injection molded detail in this regard. Nor do the turrets and casemate need more material on them to stand out. I don’t hear the explanation here for why it seems the sides of the upper hull and turret were slathered with texture. To my mind, on a high end kit, these added elements are to be avoided absent a patent need for such. Every artist is free to use license to make their own designs and elements, but I’d like to know why they are making those choices so we can have a helpful dialogue. I think the many novice modelers who see the armor texturing will believe they are “missing out” and potentially ruin a build (I know, it happened to me), for such aggressive elements it should be clearly stated as to why IMHO
What are this for fail colors?!Not good!
Thanks!
I noticed that you didn’t thin your gray primer. Did it leave a gritty feel after it dried ?