Is mine gonna look like that in another 20k it's just had it's 3rd belt, it might be too tight, looking for a visual reference. As my tensioner spring is weak ,put the bolts on loose with some friction ,poked the adjuster with screwdriver tapped with palm once. Oh as for the bloody alternator belt adjustment, water pump pully off, adjust alternator position, belt around pullys and wiggle pump pully on.
Yeah it was fun doing that messes with people's heads and I enjoyed it sadly I haven't had them done in a long time too expensive :-( 30 bucks every two weeks adds up
@@nerys71 yeah i get you ! I started putting eye-liner recently, currently living in Paris so most people don't care, but it feels nice to enjoy some self-prettiness and care ! Maybe painting your nails by yourself would be cheaper (even though it wouldn't be as perfect) ? Cheers take care ✌
id like to warn people about turning the engine over while trying to get a pulley off because it is both dangerous and unnecessary. loosen the alternator bolts to loosen the belt.you have to do that anyways to put it back on.also there is the matter of whether your motor is interference fit or not(this model of metro is not fortunately).if the belt broke,u could have a very minimal chance u didn't bend valves,but trying to turn it over will guarantee that they bend and more damage.
be sure to check part 2 for the finish. I am working on a write up to go with it. $550 is not "insane" these car's are just insanely easy. $550 to do timing chain on my E150 van would be a bargain :-) but yeah if your willing to get a wee dirty these cars are SO easy to work on.
I had my $55 water pump, belt and tightening pulley for a year. My 2000 metro was easy, thanks to the tutorials. I came to the conclusion that would leave the cover off and not use the spring tensioner.. Not using the spring allows you to travel the fulcrum device to be adjust all the way to left. It puts the tightening pulley all the way to its less tightening position. The belt slides on easy, then you tighten the center fulcrum bolt while pulling the fulcrum back down. The spring is used for an automatic tensioner when servicing a tightening belt procedure thru a window on the cover. I did think I could be off one tooth. I started the car and it was apparent I was off. If you know your crankshaft did not move, you can just move the cam pulley by hand. I changed it one tooth and it is now back on the road.
can you make a video so I can see how your engine runs while it is in time? I need to see how fast it is going in park and in drive if possible? Wish there was an RPM gauge. I am also curious on where your distributor is set too. Mine is almost all the way up to advanced. Not quit, but close.
Question 1 - cause its fun and I love orange. Question 2 - I used a cushion and a board I used that spot because I needed to lift it "just slightly" so I could loosen the front motor mount to lower it a tiny but to make it easier to get to the crank pulley bolts. There is no other flat solid safe location to do this except the oil pan. the "CAR" was not lifted by this. JUST the 75 pound engine an inch.
also remember this took me some 6+ hours. but most of that was figuring out the right tools or decided "how" to get to this bolt that bolt the order etc.. Second time will go MUCH MUCH faster 18 minutes was just the moments where I turned on the camera.
I believe it only lines up every 2nd or third revolution. IE keep turning the crank and see if they ever line up. if you rotate the engine one time they will "not" line back up.
Doesn't it line back up if you line the marks up? From the pictures I see.... They line up like the mechanic said. The top one points up to the notch and the bottom one points up as well, to the spring..... So wouldn't that mean they are lined up? Or do you got to turn the cam twice and line it up? that you just can't line up the mark with the spring on top?
Yes but they only line up every OTHER revolution from what I understand. IE the bottom sprocket (IIRC) turns ones for every time the top sprocket turns. SO turn it a few times and see if they "line up" again. if they never line up then its not right. ALSO remember their are TWO marks on one of the sprockets. one is right one is wrong.
I just got the timing set on my car, I paid $200 They screwed it up!!! He said they are both facing up, the bottom one is facing towards a spring... Is that correct????
You make this look easy, I would think the parts are harder to take off and this is very edited? However... I may just try this, can you show us what you did with the cover? Also, I would like to know how to take out the distributor. If you can do a video with that I would appreciate it. Your easy to follow. Thanks
no. it really is pretty easy. the only "hard" part was the little bolts holding the crank pulley in place. you need to use a high quality socket here or you could strip them. they are tight and shallow. use a loose socket and you will probably destroy them. SO just make sure you have lots of pressure on that socket to keep it from "lifting" and "rounding" the bolt heads. once they crack lose they come out easily. I dropped the engine a tiny bit (motor mount) which is why you see the jack ...
... under the oil pan. that is not lifting the car but simply taking a small portion of the very small weight of the engine so I could lower it a hair to make access to the bolts easier. Otherwise it really is that easy. its one of the reasons we love these cars so darned much. ridiculously easy to work on and cheap :-)
Hahaha, I thought I was a moron for being stuck on how to get the center timing cover bolt out, mines stuck and I'm to point I'm about to cut it off, but damn... take the alternator loose num nuts, and I didn't make it past cranking it, bet pt. 2 video is a valve job...
That was not be throwing parts around. that was me taking advantage of an opportunity to spook anthony. One of my favorite past times. spooking my victums.
Hugo Chavez i did not. mine has no ac belt (with and without they both have the same pulley) i would assume the ac compressor would be loosened and shifted to slacken the belt but i do not honestly know.
if your timing belt is broken..DO NOT CRANK OVER YOUR ENGINE!!! that risks damaging any valves stuck open... THE ALTERNATOR BOLTS ARE ALSO USED TO TENSION THE BELT.. YOU UNDO THE ALTERNATOR AND THE BELT WILL COME OFF
just found a website with a... LIST of INTERFERENCE ENGINES WITH TIMING BELTS NOTE: This list is not all inclusive. But if your engine is listed below, it IS an interference engine with a timing belt. GM 1986-95 1.0L Geo Metro 1989-91 1.0L Firefly (CANADA) also in the list SUZUKI 1985-94 1.3L Samurai Sidekick 1989-94 1.3L Swift
thegreatwhitenorth that list is wrong. the 1.0 is a non interference engine. this is an indisputable fact. i have one. i broke the timing belt while running. cranked it many times. zero damage.
Orange. I like getting my nails done. Started as a haloween dare and just kept going. Have not had them done in a couple years. Just too damned expensive.
that oil leak is what caused the timing belt to snap, I hope you realize that. Also it would have been easier to have removed the entire water pump it's not that much work. I would have at least used a slide hammer instead of prying on the back of that pully, you may have cracked your water pump bud. Did you ever consider using a universal adapter on your ratchet instead of lowering the engine? Brother, you needed to remove spark plugs so that you didn't build up compression turning the cam! that is why it was jumping, because of the compression! The tensioner can be retracted then released back to it's normal position after the belt is on.
There are no oil leaks in the car any longer. Part of what i did with that project was to replace all seals etc.. i replaced the water pump as well. Cheap and already in there. The instructions were pretty specific about doing tensioner first so i assumed there was a reason for it. I am also pretty sure the 250,000 miles simply wore it out. :-) i did unscrew the plugs to set the timing. It was much harder before i realized that compression was the likely reason. :-)
Nerys Ya and even the slightest thing wrong can seriously affect it. I just changed a clutch and when I was done I drove it for about 20 miles all was well. The next day I started it and it slowly stalled out and wouldn't start again. I was baffled all day checking everything I knew. Just as I was about to throw in the towel and tow it to a real mechanic I noticed a single vacuum tube disconnected behind the carb near the firewall. It was a TINY tube. I thought, "this can't be the problem" I hooked it back up (don't know how it got disconnected). It started REAL hard and I had to put the pedal to the floor to get it to run right. Now, it's running great.
You don't build up compression turning the cam. Because for one it doesn't compress anything, its simply opens the valves, The cam turned because you were on a lobe or two. Usually there are holes in the pulley you can put bolts through and it locks into the head or block to hold it. And I noticed you reinstalled the belt with all that oil. It will fail again. Oil and rubber are enemies. Also with the plugs out first, align the bottom pulley with zero or TDC on the timing marks then remove it, that way your gear will be very close to the mark and its easier to turn.
vboss5764 LOL you can take a spark plug out put your thumb over the hole and turn the crank shaft and you can FEEL the compression. You can take a MANUAL gage and screw it into the spark plug hole, turn the crank shaft and MEASURE the compression. When you turn the cam you also create compression (it's not as much as turning the piston but it's enough). To recap. When you turn the cam you move the valves up and down (and you will create some compression within the piston wall) When you turn the CRANK shaft you move the PISTONS up and down which is what creates the engine compression. Turning either one and moving either the pistons or the valves up and down is going to cause one piston to go over center (which is what an engine is designed to do and is how an engine turns). You must be messing with me.
Kids don't try this at hone because you watch this video you will definitely ruin your car. go to the library or look up this information w virginia mechanics really don't know about replacing air in a tire I mean adding air they'll put air in your account compresser
@@zuranku because it's wrong :-) I believe the three-cylinder engine in the Sprint wasn't interference engine and I'm not sure about the four cylinder it might be referring to that? But I know for a fact the three cylinder is not interference
you will never get any useful information from a video at 30frames per second. your car should be running around 700-800 RPM at "HOT" idle (IE after its warmed up) There is no running in drive. Drive is 0 rpm (engine stalled) unless your moving (manual transmission) so I assume you have an automatic.
no problem. good luck. part of the pleasure of these cars is how easy they are to work on.
thanks for the video. You just saved me from hitting the 17 mm pully nut with an air gun trying to get the pully off.
Is mine gonna look like that in another 20k it's just had it's 3rd belt, it might be too tight, looking for a visual reference. As my tensioner spring is weak ,put the bolts on loose with some friction ,poked the adjuster with screwdriver tapped with palm once.
Oh as for the bloody alternator belt adjustment, water pump pully off, adjust alternator position, belt around pullys and wiggle pump pully on.
Thanks for the vid... Ive been working on that harmonic balancer for 3days now...
if you loosen (or remove) your spark plugs, you'll have no compression to cause the timing gear to "jump"
Sorry, that was the next thing you did - haha,
Damn, everyone's freaking out about your nails haha ! Thank you for your video, i'm glad you enjoy yourself as you are :)
Yeah it was fun doing that messes with people's heads and I enjoyed it sadly I haven't had them done in a long time too expensive :-( 30 bucks every two weeks adds up
@@nerys71 yeah i get you ! I started putting eye-liner recently, currently living in Paris so most people don't care, but it feels nice to enjoy some self-prettiness and care !
Maybe painting your nails by yourself would be cheaper (even though it wouldn't be as perfect) ?
Cheers take care ✌
Thank you soooooooo much, this was VERY helpfull....
there is one bolt that holds an adjustment thing in. I just tightened it all the way up. seems to work just fine.
id like to warn people about turning the engine over while trying to get a pulley off because it is both dangerous and unnecessary. loosen the alternator bolts to loosen the belt.you have to do that anyways to put it back on.also there is the matter of whether your motor is interference fit or not(this model of metro is not fortunately).if the belt broke,u could have a very minimal chance u didn't bend valves,but trying to turn it over will guarantee that they bend and more damage.
Why didn't you just loosen the alternator to take tension off the belt? If you had done that, the pulley would have fallen off.
be sure to check part 2 for the finish. I am working on a write up to go with it. $550 is not "insane" these car's are just insanely easy. $550 to do timing chain on my E150 van would be a bargain :-) but yeah if your willing to get a wee dirty these cars are SO easy to work on.
I need to put a new belt on my 1998 metro the bolt on The pulley won't come off any tips
It could be rusted idk any tips for that
I had my $55 water pump, belt and tightening pulley for a year. My 2000 metro was easy, thanks to the tutorials. I came to the conclusion that would leave the cover off and not use the spring tensioner.. Not using the spring allows you to travel the fulcrum device to be adjust all the way to left. It puts the tightening pulley all the way to its less tightening position. The belt slides on easy, then you tighten the center fulcrum bolt while pulling the fulcrum back down. The spring is used for an automatic tensioner when servicing a tightening belt procedure thru a window on the cover. I did think I could be off one tooth. I started the car and it was apparent I was off. If you know your crankshaft did not move, you can just move the cam pulley by hand. I changed it one tooth and it is now back on the road.
can you make a video so I can see how your engine runs while it is in time? I need to see how fast it is going in park and in drive if possible? Wish there was an RPM gauge. I am also curious on where your distributor is set too. Mine is almost all the way up to advanced. Not quit, but close.
Thank you Great video
Question 1 - cause its fun and I love orange.
Question 2 - I used a cushion and a board I used that spot because I needed to lift it "just slightly" so I could loosen the front motor mount to lower it a tiny but to make it easier to get to the crank pulley bolts. There is no other flat solid safe location to do this except the oil pan. the "CAR" was not lifted by this. JUST the 75 pound engine an inch.
Does anyone in Tampa, Florida have one of these 3 cylinder Geo Metro's for sale?
also remember this took me some 6+ hours. but most of that was figuring out the right tools or decided "how" to get to this bolt that bolt the order etc.. Second time will go MUCH MUCH faster 18 minutes was just the moments where I turned on the camera.
so much oil everywhere. true classic
I believe it only lines up every 2nd or third revolution. IE keep turning the crank and see if they ever line up. if you rotate the engine one time they will "not" line back up.
orange nail polish. I enjoy getting my nails done. its fun and it looks cool.
Doesn't it line back up if you line the marks up?
From the pictures I see.... They line up like the mechanic said.
The top one points up to the notch and the bottom one points up as well, to the spring..... So wouldn't that mean they are lined up? Or do you got to turn the cam twice and line it up? that you just can't line up the mark with the spring on top?
Yes but they only line up every OTHER revolution from what I understand. IE the bottom sprocket (IIRC) turns ones for every time the top sprocket turns. SO turn it a few times and see if they "line up" again. if they never line up then its not right. ALSO remember their are TWO marks on one of the sprockets. one is right one is wrong.
Is this the 1 liter 3cyl motor, or the hotrod 1.3 liter 4 cyl motor?
The top gear must be at 50 or 80?
I have not played with the distributor yet. I do need to change its o-ring I will try and remember to record the process when I do that.
I just got the timing set on my car, I paid $200 They screwed it up!!!
He said they are both facing up, the bottom one is facing towards a spring... Is that correct????
I kinda just used the E-break, but yes. I have an automatic. Sucks because I don't have an RPM gauge on mine. It is a 1990
Is that orange nail polish or cheese doodles? Thanks for the informative video.
Need Geo Metro 1.3 parts but nobody has any. Please help.
You make this look easy, I would think the parts are harder to take off and this is very edited? However... I may just try this, can you show us what you did with the cover?
Also, I would like to know how to take out the distributor. If you can do a video with that I would appreciate it.
Your easy to follow.
Thanks
no. it really is pretty easy. the only "hard" part was the little bolts holding the crank pulley in place. you need to use a high quality socket here or you could strip them. they are tight and shallow. use a loose socket and you will probably destroy them. SO just make sure you have lots of pressure on that socket to keep it from "lifting" and "rounding" the bolt heads. once they crack lose they come out easily.
I dropped the engine a tiny bit (motor mount) which is why you see the jack ...
a Geo Metro 94 will be cleaning the IAC valve
... under the oil pan. that is not lifting the car but simply taking a small portion of the very small weight of the engine so I could lower it a hair to make access to the bolts easier. Otherwise it really is that easy. its one of the reasons we love these cars so darned much. ridiculously easy to work on and cheap :-)
just wondering why you are just throwing parts around??
how to remove a water pump gasket??
you have be careful if the timing belt has snapped and you crank the car you have the possibility of the pistons kissing the valves
These are not interference motors so it wont hurt the valves or the pistons if the belt fails
@@goofball3236 These are interference motors
@@zuranku no they are not lol!
@@zacharysant1443 Depends on the year
Hahaha, I thought I was a moron for being stuck on how to get the center timing cover bolt out, mines stuck and I'm to point I'm about to cut it off, but damn... take the alternator loose num nuts, and I didn't make it past cranking it, bet pt. 2 video is a valve job...
That how hillbilly's change a belt instead of loosing alt bracket
And then the work light falls on the ground and breaks! I've been there and done that. Same problems as you had...
That was not be throwing parts around. that was me taking advantage of an opportunity to spook anthony. One of my favorite past times. spooking my victums.
How did you undo the ac belt 🤔
Hugo Chavez i did not. mine has no ac belt (with and without they both have the same pulley) i would assume the ac compressor would be loosened and shifted to slacken the belt but i do not honestly know.
well like the time when you chucked the pulley at your friend there...
if your timing belt is broken..DO NOT CRANK OVER YOUR ENGINE!!! that risks damaging any valves stuck open... THE ALTERNATOR BOLTS ARE ALSO USED TO TENSION THE BELT.. YOU UNDO THE ALTERNATOR AND THE BELT WILL COME OFF
It's a non-interference engine. If the valves could touch the piston it would have happened when the belt snapped.
Momotaro correct. its only damaging in an interference engine.
just found a website with a...
LIST of INTERFERENCE ENGINES WITH TIMING BELTS
NOTE: This list is not all inclusive. But if your engine is listed below, it IS an interference engine with a timing belt.
GM
1986-95 1.0L Geo Metro
1989-91 1.0L Firefly (CANADA)
also in the list
SUZUKI
1985-94 1.3L Samurai Sidekick
1989-94 1.3L Swift
thegreatwhitenorth that list is wrong. the 1.0 is a non interference engine. this is an indisputable fact. i have one. i broke the timing belt while running. cranked it many times. zero damage.
They also tell me my VW is Inteference....It's a 71.
Whats with the yellow finger nails?. Enjoyed the upload though :)
Orange. I like getting my nails done. Started as a haloween dare and just kept going. Have not had them done in a couple years. Just too damned expensive.
+Nerys are you gay
rude
@@alexsbikesandmotors is that really important ?
Take the spark plugs out it will literally take a minute
Turningwrenches On old cars Neep new Parts but can't find anyone who sells metro Parts. Help please.😭 Need a website for everything Geo
@@dwdkokab8406Rock auto
I do not understand the question. I understand the words but not the meaning/context.
that oil leak is what caused the timing belt to snap, I hope you realize that. Also it would have been easier to have removed the entire water pump it's not that much work. I would have at least used a slide hammer instead of prying on the back of that pully, you may have cracked your water pump bud. Did you ever consider using a universal adapter on your ratchet instead of lowering the engine? Brother, you needed to remove spark plugs so that you didn't build up compression turning the cam! that is why it was jumping, because of the compression! The tensioner can be retracted then released back to it's normal position after the belt is on.
There are no oil leaks in the car any longer. Part of what i did with that project was to replace all seals etc.. i replaced the water pump as well. Cheap and already in there. The instructions were pretty specific about doing tensioner first so i assumed there was a reason for it. I am also pretty sure the 250,000 miles simply wore it out. :-) i did unscrew the plugs to set the timing. It was much harder before i realized that compression was the likely reason. :-)
Thank you for the advice too. I am not a professional mechanic but i manage. One of the pros of ownimg a metro. Crazy easy to diy repair. :-)
Nerys Ya and even the slightest thing wrong can seriously affect it. I just changed a clutch and when I was done I drove it for about 20 miles all was well. The next day I started it and it slowly stalled out and wouldn't start again. I was baffled all day checking everything I knew. Just as I was about to throw in the towel and tow it to a real mechanic I noticed a single vacuum tube disconnected behind the carb near the firewall. It was a TINY tube. I thought, "this can't be the problem" I hooked it back up (don't know how it got disconnected). It started REAL hard and I had to put the pedal to the floor to get it to run right. Now, it's running great.
You don't build up compression turning the cam. Because for one it doesn't compress anything, its simply opens the valves, The cam turned because you were on a lobe or two. Usually there are holes in the pulley you can put bolts through and it locks into the head or block to hold it. And I noticed you reinstalled the belt with all that oil. It will fail again. Oil and rubber are enemies. Also with the plugs out first, align the bottom pulley with zero or TDC on the timing marks then remove it, that way your gear will be very close to the mark and its easier to turn.
vboss5764 LOL you can take a spark plug out put your thumb over the hole and turn the crank shaft and you can FEEL the compression. You can take a MANUAL gage and screw it into the spark plug hole, turn the crank shaft and MEASURE the compression. When you turn the cam you also create compression (it's not as much as turning the piston but it's enough). To recap. When you turn the cam you move the valves up and down (and you will create some compression within the piston wall) When you turn the CRANK shaft you move the PISTONS up and down which is what creates the engine compression. Turning either one and moving either the pistons or the valves up and down is going to cause one piston to go over center (which is what an engine is designed to do and is how an engine turns). You must be messing with me.
89 Geo Gasser XFI
U paint your nails
??????
I used to it was fun looked cool and I enjoy messing with people but it's just too expensive to keep doing it :-)
$50 will nab you an arduino and it will give you RPM as well as fuel economy in real time :-)
I have a whole Arduino project coming up. I know nothing about it. Where would I hook that one up to?
@@LucasWarnerDev its a dedicated unit based on arduino. I am not sure if they are even available any longer!
1L 3cyl
What is with the yellow finger nails
I am strange and enjoy being so :-)
Kids don't try this at hone because you watch this video you will definitely ruin your car. go to the library or look up this information w virginia mechanics really don't know about replacing air in a tire I mean adding air they'll put air in your account compresser
Well the good news is it is a non interference engine so it would be pretty hard for you to mess it up :-)
@@nerys71 Why does the wikipedia say this is an interference engine?
@@zuranku because it's wrong :-) I believe the three-cylinder engine in the Sprint wasn't interference engine and I'm not sure about the four cylinder it might be referring to that? But I know for a fact the three cylinder is not interference
This is pretty simple to determine my engine didn't blow up :-)
@@nerys71 Hey thanks for the quick response. Any tips on removing the valve cover?
you will never get any useful information from a video at 30frames per second. your car should be running around 700-800 RPM at "HOT" idle (IE after its warmed up) There is no running in drive. Drive is 0 rpm (engine stalled) unless your moving (manual transmission) so I assume you have an automatic.