Doesn't the oil dip stick and the tube it is in come off by removing just one bolt at the bottom of the tube and pulling the tube straight out. At least that is what I read on some forums. No need to curse the oil dip stick.
if I ever do that I will try and remember to record a video. IIRC (don't quote me yet) its not hard. first timing on these is automatic you don't "set" it but you do set a "base" timing point that it works from should be 8' but it won't pass emissions at 8' so factory sets it to 5' to pass emissions (on my 94 xfi) get a cheap timing light. there is a "jumper" you have to short to "fix" the base timing and then you rotate the distributor to "set" it using the timing light and the marks on cover.
The way I adjusted the tensioner adjuster bolt was to let the tensioner adjust itself (both bolts loose) once it self adjusted I pushed it a hair more (it was old and rusty the spring) and tightened the adjuster stud. once that was tight THEN I torqued the tensioner bolt itself.
bro... there is seriously a bolt 6 inches further down the oil dipstick that holds it against the block that you can undo... I even saw it in this video.
If the seal isn't leaking, LEAVE IT ALONE! Also, to aid in keeping the timing marks lined up, cut the old timing belt in half LONG WAYS with a box cutter and slide the front half off. This holds your timing marks in place. Then, simply slide the new timing belt on and cut the rear half of the old timing belt off and slide the new one the rest of the way on. Changing the water pump is optional. I only change the water pump if it is leaking or not functioning. I usually can go through 3 timing belt replacements without changing the water pump. Always add bottle of a water pump lubricant to your anti freeze.
Thanks for very good video! You (and your brother)Rock!! Great job!
Doesn't the oil dip stick and the tube it is in come off by removing just one bolt at the bottom of the tube and pulling the tube straight out. At least that is what I read on some forums. No need to curse the oil dip stick.
if I ever do that I will try and remember to record a video. IIRC (don't quote me yet) its not hard. first timing on these is automatic you don't "set" it but you do set a "base" timing point that it works from should be 8' but it won't pass emissions at 8' so factory sets it to 5' to pass emissions (on my 94 xfi)
get a cheap timing light. there is a "jumper" you have to short to "fix" the base timing and then you rotate the distributor to "set" it using the timing light and the marks on cover.
What year it is you metro?
@@omarsollanom8828 That is a 1994 XFI. sadly I don't have it anymore. Had to leave some cars behind when I moved cross country.
The way I adjusted the tensioner adjuster bolt was to let the tensioner adjust itself (both bolts loose) once it self adjusted I pushed it a hair more (it was old and rusty the spring) and tightened the adjuster stud. once that was tight THEN I torqued the tensioner bolt itself.
bro... there is seriously a bolt 6 inches further down the oil dipstick that holds it against the block that you can undo... I even saw it in this video.
can you do a video on how to set the timing? I need to know where the timing marks are
Glad I didn't buy a water pump, lol.
If the seal isn't leaking, LEAVE IT ALONE! Also, to aid in keeping the timing marks lined up, cut the old timing belt in half LONG WAYS with a box cutter and slide the front half off. This holds your timing marks in place. Then, simply slide the new timing belt on and cut the rear half of the old timing belt off and slide the new one the rest of the way on. Changing the water pump is optional. I only change the water pump if it is leaking or not functioning. I usually can go through 3 timing belt replacements without changing the water pump. Always add bottle of a water pump lubricant to your anti freeze.
Fungus Exterminator No. Just no,