Sportster 1200 oil pressure check valve replacement/wet sumping.
Вставка
- Опубліковано 28 вер 2020
- Today we will be replacing the oil pressure check valve on a sportster 1200 due to wet sumping issues. This bike has had wetsumping issues where the oil tank will drain its contents and fill the crankcase. This causes the engine and oil pump to work harder to pump the excess oil. This is the procedure we used to perform the repair. We do not assume any liability/responsibility for anyone's mishandling of this information. Always consult your service manual and if you are not able to perform the repair, you should have it done by a licensed motorcycle mechanic.
- Авто та транспорт
I've had a 2000 883 for about 12 years now. The thing wet sumped from day one. It wasn't too bad if I rode it everyday, but let it sit for a few days, go for a run, there'd be oil all over the place. Six years ago I had a little get off that left me in hospital for a while. The bike sat for 2 years before I got around to fixing it. When I looked in the oil tank there was nothing. That got me looking at the oil system diagram, and that got me to suspecting the check valve assembly. I ordered a new ball & spring. OEM parts cost about $12 AU. I haven't had an issue with it since, except the bike's still a heavy spitter and doesn't really like having the oil filled up more than halfway through the safe zone on the dipstick lest it start dumping stupid amounts of oil into the airbox. I measured the new spring against the old one, and the old spring was about 3/8 of an inch shorter than the new one. I guess it had taken a set & that was the problem.
Thanks for the video, I noticed my tank was empty one day after sitting for a bit this winter, I didn't realize it could be a problem.
Shop vac reduced might of help ya to...thank you for the education!
I know this was 3 years ago. So I am curious, did this solve your problem?
I had wet sumping around my oil pump on a 91 sportster I just ordered the adapter valve kit but it caused a loud knock in the motor I took the oul pump out and found a small piece of rubber in the top of the pump just below the drive gear I have to take off the cam cover to get to the oil filter plunger the 92 and later sportsters aren't set up like that
Any information on 07xl1200c internal breather valves umbrella valves Rough crankcase ventilation will this effect a dyno tune
A magnet works very well
he had a magnet on the backend of first screwdriver he used.. very conscientious
Is it possible that a new motorcycle can have an oil leak because the oil pressure valve is stuck and the pressure inside the engine is pushing oil out via shaft seal or gaskets?
Any chance i can do the same on my 2010 883? Wet sumping after a few days sitting .
#1 Clean Your Check, #2 Get An Inline Hose Barb Non-Return Valve To Splice Into Your Tank Return Line From The Scavenge Pump.
( make sure you get it in the right way, arrow towards the oil tank; and in the return line from your scavenge pump )
That’s a great idea thank you! Thanks for watching!
@@v-twinbrothers2001 they make 3/8" hose barb check valves for big diesel fuel lines which work for anything from air to oil.
i can't put a link here, you would just have to find one.
but the scavenge pump is at the engine debris front line, and after a hit, the slightest compromise can allow oil to run backwards through the tank return line into a sumped condition.
and the valve could get a piece of debris lodged in it, but the valve will generally render sumping to be a very rare happening.
@@v-twinbrothers2001 and the valve *Will Only cure Sit Sump*...
if anyone experiences sumping while the engine is running, Then They Need A New Oil Pump.
I have a 883 HD of the same vintage as above. In addition to suspected wet sumping (oil drains from the tank in a couple of days sitting) the bike will blow out the oil filter gasket upon startup if it is below 15c (60F). I have changed the filter twice, making sure the gasket is lubed up. Changed the oil using the recommended weight and inspected the lines going through and from the tank and oil pump. I haven't noticed any oil spweing out from other places. Any pro tip on what might be causing this?
@@JFinnerud do a search for "3/8 fuel oil check valve non-return valve"
you should find an aluminum dual hose barb anti-drain back valve, with an arrow on it..
spice that into your scavenge pump return line,
( with the arrow pointing toward the tank )
make sure you get it in the right line, and in the right direction.
that will cure your sit sump.
Did you disconnect the electric wire for the oil pressure switch under the oil filter mount before removing the check ball and spring ??
Thank you for watching! We did not have to disconnect the switch.
@@v-twinbrothers2001 do a search for "3/8 fuel oil check valve non-return valve"
you should find an aluminum dual hose barb anti-drain back valve, with an arrow on it..
spice that into your scavenge pump return line,
( with the arrow pointing toward the tank )
make sure you get it in the right line, and in the right direction.
that will cure your sit sump.
@@v-twinbrothers2001 the scavenge pump is at the debris front line...if it takes a hit from any hard ferrous debris, the compromised scavenge pump will leak oil backwards through the return line...
for sporties with the 3/8" rubber scavenge return lines, those dual 3/8" hose barb diesel fuel oil checks will cure the sit sump..
if your bike sumps while riding, swap in a new oil pump.
i go over The Cure for wet/ sit sumping in my latest video.
Where did you find the parts? Having a hard time finding the ball and spring thanks.
Your dealer should be able to special order it for you using the part number 26437-86b. I also googled the part number and a few Hd dealer websites came up in the results. Thank you for watching.
These parts are like hens teeth cant find anything online
Dont order from anyone but harley brother i had issues with the bs metal ball bearing looking 1 from jp cycles no bueno harley rarely stocks them but its woth it with harly 18 bucks and some change for all 3
Are u doing a 2nd video to let us know if this worked or not seems u didnt have a real answer at the end so did this actually work???
We don’t plan to do another video on this but we did see a difference. The oil tank doesn’t seem to drain the way it did when the bike sits for a while. Thank you for watching!
Hi. Im just curious. Did this solve the issue long term. My bike does exactly the same. The tank will drain a few days after I've ridden it. So when I start it up again it will only take on the second time I hit the start button. I assume its because the motor is working harder, sloshing through the excess oil in the sump and then take on the second try cause the oil have now moved back into the tank, freeing the sump up.
Have you made any repairs yet?
Im doing this repair tomorrow morning i got the parts from harley today will let u know wat happens if u like lmk
@@Sevenboy127gmail did it fix the problem?
@@spitfirepaintball16 yes no issues since i replaced it
Sportsters always sump oil when left sitting for a long time . Most Harleys do like over the whinter
Thanks for sharing this I video. I did have a wet sumping issue unfortunately replacing the plunger did not solve the issue i have had for some time: have a 1998 883 that keeps blowing out the oil filter gasket if it's colder than around 68f. When i checked the oil pressure with an external oil pressure gauge it showed more than 60psi. i have checked for clogged lines however they seems fine. Replaced oil filter twice with original filter and also made sure it's torqued to spec. The plunger seems to be opening as it should and not sticking or anything. So far i have concluded that it the issue seems to be somewhere after the oil filter. As of now i have absolutely no idea on what to do next. Any tip would be much appreciated.
it is the stuff blowing backwards through the galley ... when a bike sit sumps up fairly high in the case, just starting it causes hydraulic back pressure in the galley ... your oil filter check closes, and it blows out the filter gasket..
see my other reply for the anti-drain-back valve search, and basic installation instructions.
@@RulgertGhostalker Hi. Thanks a lot for your replies. I have ordered the 3/8" check valve you suggested. Will I still need the plunger or will if function as a "replcement" ?
@@JFinnerud the Inline Check Valve Doesn't replace anything.
so you still need the engine's stock high pressure check behind the filter, ( although those parts you already have may be fine, and may not be the problem );
generally the engine's pressure check fix is just to be cleaned and reassembled..
the 3/8 hose barb Inline check goes in the Low Pressure scavenge return line back to the tank..
look in a manual, or other reliable reference for your make and model, and make sure you splice it into the scavenge return line; and with the arrow pointing toward the oil tank..
*once you know what hose that is:*
then you,
1) find a spot on the hose where it will fit.
2) cut the hose there
3) put 3/8 hose claps on each side of the cut
4) insert check valve WITH THE ARROW POINTING TOWARD THE TANK.
5) Tighten clamps
it may be sumped when you start it after you put it in,
but once your past that start, the rest of your starts should be dry, and not cause any problems with your filter gasket.
@@JFinnerud But Also.
if you feel any oil drag while your ridding; that is different than sit sump..
*the In-Line check will only cure Sit Sump.*
in such the case where the engine is sumpy while riding,
then you would also have to swap in a new oil pump.
@@JFinnerud Also..
just as your high pressure check may need to be cleaned on occasion;
so too, on any occasion, that your bike actually sit sumps with the inline valve installed,
( that would be because of a bit of debris keeping the valve from sealing when you shut off the bike )
*likely a rare occurrence*,
( and the offending particle may be pushed clear anyway on that start...and so cleaning itself )
Does your bike start easier now?
Seems like it doesn’t take as much effort. Not a major difference but it also reduced the sumping issue a lot. Thanks for watching!!
My bike has sat for awhile. The oil has drained out of the tank. When I start the bike next time, Is oil going to pour out of my intake? I’ve read this happens.
No, as long as you have the correct amount of oil in it, you shouldn’t have this issue. We’ve also heard this happens as well but have never seen it in any of the sportsters we’ve owned.
I would suggest starting it briefly and shutting it off, then checking the oil level as the tank should refill. To our understanding, oil only. Comes out the intake when it’s overfilled.
Thank you for watching!
@@v-twinbrothers2001 Thanks. I was thinking I needed to remove the air intake so the oil wouldn’t go back into the engine.
@@aucklandsadventures no problem. You certainly can, and it sounds like a good idea. I’d be surprised if you get oil coming out (assuming it’s filled correctly). If you don’t mind, let us know what happens.
I have same problem as you. 91 Low Rider Custom, 25K miles. Oil is not overfilled, actually a little under because i suspected as one of the replies suggested...too much oil. Not the case. Bike sits for a period of time and oil tank empties into the crank. Had the breather replaced and did not solve the problem as the oil kept flowing to the air cleaner. Hooked up a hose to a soda bottle to catch the excess oil after not starting for a period of time and got a half quart in container in a few minutes. When it stopped filling the bottle, the sumping must have been done. I suspect my next fix is replacing the ball and spring like in the video. I even contemplated putting an inline shutoff ball valve between the oil tank and lower end. Had the bike since the mid 90's and never had this problem even after letting it sit for weeks without starting up until about 10 years ago.
(2005 883) I got oil leaking like crazy out the air breather when. I'm doing 80mph in 5th gear. I replaced the breathers and put 2 new orange seals but it didn't matter. Still leaking. Any idea? May the ball and spring be the issue?
How many miles are on it? Might be time to do compression and leakdown tests. I wouldn’t expect the check valve to be the cause. That seems like you have excessive crankcase pressure. Thanks for watching!
@@v-twinbrothers2001 20.5k mi. I've been reading forums and the service manual. Narrowed down to a bunch of shit.
Check ball
Pinched vent
Scavenger gears
Head breathers
Excessive oil in bag
Wrong/bad oil filter
Wet sumping
Sit sumping
Crankcase pressure
So I swapped the head breathers. Compression was 155F/150R.
Drained oil completely and checked for debris. Added 2 qts 20/50syn and KN 170 oil filter. Disconnected vent line and hit with air hose. Ran for a minute and watched for return flow in bag. Checked the ball valve, Seems good. Typical indent from sitting against the threaded adapter.
Note: it only pukes oil excessively in 5th at 80 mph. So I think your right with high pressure being ass backwards. Gonna run it tomorrow and see what happens. Worse thing I'll have to do is drill cam cover and put a relief there to help. Your thoughts good sir....
I got the bike back for the same issue. I think I'm gonna have to tear the too end off and see if the port that transfers oil from case to cam side is plugged or something. Frustrating but learning a lot.
@@usmcdoc2512 So I've been running into the exact same issue since I put my bike together, I didn't think to try the check ball; which I'm going to look into today.
I also ride 80~90 mph in 5th; roughly 4~4300rpm. I'm hoping that I just didn't tighten the checkball assembly way back when and that's why it's leaking.
Mine blew a lot of oil out of the front breather; I replaced the rocker/umbrella valve and that didn't matter, still spew it.
So I got an external breather, that slowed it down a bit. not a fix though.
However for me, it could also be a really quick wet sumping, because I'm the one who put the bike back together (pistons blew) and I distinctly remember that assembly being loose.
I'm curious if you've resolved your issue?
That's definitely not locktie, it's thread sealant, hopefully someone putting a used one back together doesn't get the idea of using the wrong thing
That’s a good catch thank you for pointing that out. Thank you for watching.
Im sure someone f@#ked at least 1 engine case because of this lol 😆
With my 2000 sportster this is happening every time i ride it, not only after it sits. Plus I have an S&S carb so the overflow gets routed out onto my rear wheel. Fender, chain guard, chain, even the rear brake and exhaust get coated with oil. I drained the crankcase and put exactly 32 oz in it. After this happens it has 36. Plus the oil in the crankcase gets a red tint from the Motul I use in the oil tank. I can't find the damn ball (26437-86B) or adopter (33117-91A) anywhere. This has been like a 3 month ordeal. Initially I thought it was the hoses and clamps, so I changed just about every one on the bike. Then I thought it must be the oil level. I have emptied and changed the oil and washed the oil off the bike like 10 times. Anyone know if there is a replacement for that ball? Changing the spring only did not work.
Which state are you in? If you’re speaking of the ball/check valve we replaced you should be able to order it online assuming you’re in the United States (I can’t speak for other countries) the part number did supersede but it is the same. Thanks for watching!
Hey Stephan D. I have a 2010 sportster and my bike is doing the exact same thing I did sit for a month, got a new battery and went down the street came back and lol all over the same side of yours.. did you find a solution??
@@damiengarcia6944 Fortunately it is an easy fix.
@Stephen D. Awesome was it the same thing as in the video?
@@damiengarcia6944 Yes. It was the check valve right behind the oil filter adaptor. It took forever to figure it out. Also I could not find the darn part aftermarket at all, but harley has them. Don't believe it if the ball looks ok. Mine looked fine and still wasn't seating properly.
I hope you never have to go back in there. Red thread locker lol it will be a fight
Lol I hope so too. I haven’t watched this video in a while but if I recall, we used thread sealer. I know I said locker by accident. Either way we followed the service manual so whatever it calls for. Thanks for watching!
Use a magnet
I bet if you hit that starter that ball would have popped right out lol.
Magnet
Why isn't it made like a normal chrome plated bearing. Cheap plstic rubbish.
Definitely agree with that statement. I'll be fitting a real bearing in mine .