I was having an issue with my oul light not going off. After taking the sender off( the nipple came off with it) . Apparently the previous owner had put a rubber gasket between the pump and nipple, blocking the metered orifice. Resulting in no signal to the sensor! Geez! Thanks for the video, I would have never known that gasket wasn't supposed to be in there without watching this! You rock Brother!
Might want to blast out the seat area where the ball seats and seals using WD-40 or something, then stick a Q-Tip into the seat area and give a little twist-scrub.
sad to say but this is rarely the issue, the main culprit is seepage past the oil pump drive since there is no seal and into the oil trap, into the flywheel compartment and through the transfer valve into the primary. on startup, oil is flooded into cam case where the oil slinger is over-whelmed and out the vent tube. fix, add a seal to the extension plate where the oil pump drive shaft goes through. good video though.
Agree, after thinking further, i actually pulled the motor again and replaced the pump gears, hasn't been puking since.seal is an interesting fix. thank you for your comment! I have a video just haven't had time to upload yet. thanks again for watching
I rebuilt my oil pump with new seal ,ball and spring and new oil pump housing it still leaks down so i put a shut off valve on the oil line and when i park it i shut the oil line off
Looking for some advice. I picked up a 81' ironhead from a friend. He told me it needs a oil pump. I asked him how he knows the pump needs replaced. He said, when it was running it, it blew oil out or the oil pressure switch. Stand to reason to me that, if thete was pressure to force oil enough to blow through the oil pressure switch, then the oil pump is probably pumping. Other thsn the pressure switch just being bad, what could cause a over pressure situation to blow oil through the switch? Ive seen pressure switches fail on v8 engines, causing oil to leak from the pressure switch. From what my buddy says, it wasnt so much that tue switch failed, it was more like there was to much oil pressure behind the switch.
Thanx crashman. A couple questions please. What do you mean by "drifting" the ball bearing in "slightly"? and second, "stick the blower in there to get the ball bearing out". Stick it in where?
drift the ball bearing take a brass punch and gently tap or seat the ball, this helps in case of a pc of dirt or something. so the ball seats cleanly. you can stick the end of your air nozzle into the opening you created when you took off the oil pressure switch first remove thw spring then blow into the hole to dislodge the ball, make sure you don't lose it. i usually wrap a towel around the fitting and air nozzle. hope this clears up your questions. thanks for watching!
I have a oil leak between nipple and pump. I’m told there is not a washer. Not sure if the spring was correct because after the bike sat for three months, I was sick, my oil pressure had 60 lbs after rebuild but after three months sitting zero. Ouch I pulled off the gauge, nipple and spring. Had to turn over engine to get the check ball to pop out. So after putting everything back together after cleaning the nipple is still leaking at the pump! No gasket?
You pulled the ball and spring (removing all "check" action) and NO oil flooded out. IF that valve had been the problem, your oil tank should have drained into your drain pan. Sumping is oil draining through the oil feed pump (fed from the lowest part of the tank), not the return pump (which is usually piped to the top of the tank, so even siphoning backfeed would be minimal volume). You get puking out of the camchest vent because that's where all return oil is routed by design to feed the return pump, not because the return pump is letting the tank backfeed into the camchest.
Every time i over fill my tank, she spits oil through this check valve. But the last time i over filled it came out what i assume is the camchest. Is there something i should be looking for?
@@bucky0868 your oil feed pump. Bad gaskets, worn gears, pressure bypass ball valve. Increased sump "head" (level of oil waiting to pump back to tank) will increase return pressure/volume. THAT will cause that ball valve to spit, and high oil level in the camchest will cause the camchest gears to fling oil to the vent. Overfilling your tank causes the same "head" problems on the feed pump. A "most likely culprit"? Feed pump relief valve bypassing too much oil, overloading the capacity of the return pump (which could be worn, so cycling less oil than optimum). Just bear in mind the full oil system is interdependent, so your symptoms could be "little stuff" in both pump set ups adding up to a problem, rather than a single smoking gun. Edit: btw, this assumes your motor is healthy, and your breather gear is timed properly. If wear in the top end increases blowby, that will increase sump/camchest breather volume/pressure
Why can't people just get a small handheld camcorder camera and mount it on a tripod, so they can use both hands to work and point with and not have shaking films that are always out of adjustment on the focus? This would make for such a good experience for an educational film that they are trying to achieve to begin with. This doesn't cause oil sumping in the checking system, that is in another part of the oil pump system, this just cleans the oil pressure gauge system to work properly, to the idiot gauge. Real men use a pressure gauge not an idiot light.
You may not like jiggling cameras but I don't like people on you tube who have no clue about H-D motors "This just cleans the oil pressure gauge system to work properly" Really???
love the REBEL flag,,,,fly it high and proud!!!!!!!!!! ty for video. I just installed a fueling camplate,new s&s crank, new HF oil pump, now im SUMPING WHEN BIKE SITS. IN 1 week its down to nothing on oil stick, but when start up,everything comes back to tank, and stays in!! so my sumping only seems to happen at stand still, bike off??? wtf..is up,any idea? ty in advance
I was having an issue with my oul light not going off. After taking the sender off( the nipple came off with it) . Apparently the previous owner had put a rubber gasket between the pump and nipple, blocking the metered orifice. Resulting in no signal to the sensor! Geez! Thanks for the video, I would have never known that gasket wasn't supposed to be in there without watching this! You rock Brother!
sweet! thanks for watching and commenting!
great video thanks
helpful how much oil puked out
Stars and bars photobomb at 1 min. Heritage not hate.
Might want to blast out the seat area where the ball seats and seals using WD-40 or something, then stick a Q-Tip into the seat area and give a little twist-scrub.
thanks for the coment, and advice! i have a ton of other ironhead vids if you would like
sad to say but this is rarely the issue, the main culprit is seepage past the oil pump drive since there is no seal and into the oil trap, into the flywheel compartment and through the transfer valve into the primary. on startup, oil is flooded into cam case where the oil slinger is over-whelmed and out the vent tube. fix, add a seal to the extension plate where the oil pump drive shaft goes through. good video though.
Agree, after thinking further, i actually pulled the motor again and replaced the pump gears, hasn't been puking since.seal is an interesting fix. thank you for your comment! I have a video just haven't had time to upload yet. thanks again for watching
I rebuilt my oil pump with new seal ,ball and spring and new oil pump housing it still leaks down so i put a shut off valve on the oil line and when i park it i shut the oil line off
Looking for some advice. I picked up a 81' ironhead from a friend. He told me it needs a oil pump. I asked him how he knows the pump needs replaced. He said, when it was running it, it blew oil out or the oil pressure switch. Stand to reason to me that, if thete was pressure to force oil enough to blow through the oil pressure switch, then the oil pump is probably pumping. Other thsn the pressure switch just being bad, what could cause a over pressure situation to blow oil through the switch? Ive seen pressure switches fail on v8 engines, causing oil to leak from the pressure switch. From what my buddy says, it wasnt so much that tue switch failed, it was more like there was to much oil pressure behind the switch.
Thanx crashman.
A couple questions please. What do you mean by "drifting" the ball bearing in "slightly"? and second, "stick the blower in there to get the ball bearing out". Stick it in where?
drift the ball bearing take a brass punch and gently tap or seat the ball, this helps in case of a pc of dirt or something. so the ball seats cleanly. you can stick the end of your air nozzle into the opening you created when you took off the oil pressure switch first remove thw spring then blow into the hole to dislodge the ball, make sure you don't lose it. i usually wrap a towel around the fitting and air nozzle. hope this clears up your questions. thanks for watching!
@@crashman1963 Thank you so much!
anytime
Another way of doing it is to take a pickup magnet put some valve lapping compound on the ball and seat it like you would a valve
Thanks for the info!
I have a oil leak between nipple and pump. I’m told there is not a washer. Not sure if the spring was correct because after the bike sat for three months, I was sick, my oil pressure had 60 lbs after rebuild but after three months sitting zero. Ouch I pulled off the gauge, nipple and spring. Had to turn over engine to get the check ball to pop out. So after putting everything back together after cleaning the nipple is still leaking at the pump! No gasket?
between nipple and pump i use good ol pipe dope.
Extend the pipe ( I used 3/8 copper tube) back to where it blows on chain.
there's an idea! thanks for watching
Brilliant
You pulled the ball and spring (removing all "check" action) and NO oil flooded out. IF that valve had been the problem, your oil tank should have drained into your drain pan. Sumping is oil draining through the oil feed pump (fed from the lowest part of the tank), not the return pump (which is usually piped to the top of the tank, so even siphoning backfeed would be minimal volume). You get puking out of the camchest vent because that's where all return oil is routed by design to feed the return pump, not because the return pump is letting the tank backfeed into the camchest.
Every time i over fill my tank, she spits oil through this check valve. But the last time i over filled it came out what i assume is the camchest.
Is there something i should be looking for?
@@bucky0868 your oil feed pump. Bad gaskets, worn gears, pressure bypass ball valve. Increased sump "head" (level of oil waiting to pump back to tank) will increase return pressure/volume. THAT will cause that ball valve to spit, and high oil level in the camchest will cause the camchest gears to fling oil to the vent. Overfilling your tank causes the same "head" problems on the feed pump. A "most likely culprit"? Feed pump relief valve bypassing too much oil, overloading the capacity of the return pump (which could be worn, so cycling less oil than optimum). Just bear in mind the full oil system is interdependent, so your symptoms could be "little stuff" in both pump set ups adding up to a problem, rather than a single smoking gun.
Edit: btw, this assumes your motor is healthy, and your breather gear is timed properly. If wear in the top end increases blowby, that will increase sump/camchest breather volume/pressure
my 72 pukes out oil when i start it so now I just put my finger over the breather til it pumps the oil back to tank
thanks
Why can't people just get a small handheld camcorder camera and mount it on a tripod, so they can use both hands to work and point with and not have shaking films that are always out of adjustment on the focus? This would make for such a good experience for an educational film that they are trying to achieve to begin with. This doesn't cause oil sumping in the checking system, that is in another part of the oil pump system, this just cleans the oil pressure gauge system to work properly, to the idiot gauge. Real men use a pressure gauge not an idiot light.
Real Men???
You may not like jiggling cameras but I don't like people on you tube who have no clue about H-D motors "This just cleans the oil pressure gauge system to work properly" Really???
love the REBEL flag,,,,fly it high and proud!!!!!!!!!! ty for video.
I just installed a fueling camplate,new s&s crank, new HF oil pump, now im SUMPING WHEN BIKE SITS. IN 1 week its down to nothing on oil stick, but when start up,everything comes back to tank, and stays in!! so my sumping only seems to happen at stand still, bike off??? wtf..is up,any idea? ty in advance
Right on!