1999 - 2003 F250 trucks & Excursion Cruise control troubleshoot and repair Fixed save $$
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- Опубліковано 5 лис 2017
- I make videos as things break on me. Sometimes, like this video, making a video is an afterthought. My family and I went away for a few days. While I checked the fluids the evening before we left, I noticed a problem. I didn't have much time to fix it and rushed to get it done before the 4-hour drive. So when we got home from our trip, I was like "I should have made a video".
It isn't a difficult repair and I try to explain it in detail. This is a short video compared to some of my others.
I got my part from the local Auto Part store. It was a Duralast F4044 switch interrupter (incorrectly spelled "interruptor" on the box). If you want to order from Amazon, here is a link to a similar part by Standard Motor Products - amzn.to/36SpxSS *As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases*
This may be the same repair on all F-series trucks and I hope it helps repair your cruise control issue. Like share and subscribe because you never know what I am going to do next. - Розваги
Thank you. I just seen it leaking but I had no idea that it is my cruise control. I just thought me cruise control didn’t work for years
You’re the MVP! Thanks for this. Fixed the issue on my excursion.
Spot on dude !!! just got home from a road trip and my cruise stopped working the first day out, watched your vid while I was looking for the fuse , went out and checked and you are spot on, thank you
I'm glad I could help, thank you for the comment.
I didn't realize I knocked the plug off this sensor when I did injectors. Thanks for telling me about this.
Glad to see people posting videos that help people out. I had the same issue with my 2001 Expedition. Personally I wouldnt worry about bleeding the brakes. The master cylinder should pull any air out just by repeatedly pushing the pedal down. The location of the sensor on the master cyclinder makes it hard to get air into the system. I suspect a tiny pocket of air stays in the plunger switch(sensor) unless it does leak.
nitebird scuffle I couldn't see the small amount of air in the master cylinder causing a problem. You are probably correct on master cylinder drawing out the air. I just recommended bleeding the brakes just as a precaution if there is a spongy pedal, pulling one way or the other. Thank you for the comment.
this is an awesome find man, looking at an F250
Dude just saw this video good knowledge thank you
Mine has a slow leak I never could find and my cruise control does not work. This 100% has to be the issue lol. I never comment on UA-cam videos but damn thank you so much! All I was gonna do was "some day" fix the cruise but the fact that this causes fluid leak is in my eyes somewhat of a safety issue so I will be doing this myself tomorrow!!
Did it work?
Thanks! I put in the part you recommended but my cruise control still didn’t work. I checked the fuse in the dash under the steering wheel but it was fine. After I removed the added wire harness with fuse (from the recall) and replaced it with the wire connector from the part you suggested, everything worked (except the cruise light in my dash display). Thanks again for your help!
The light on the dash may be burnt out and just need a new bulb. I'm glad my video could help. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks. I have a 2002 f250 7.3 My dipstick cap for my power steering pump was loose and power steering fluid it covered my cruise control switch with the same result as your brake fluid.
You mean it was shorting out the cruise control like the brake fluid?
I just watched this. Thanks for the info. My cruise dash indicator would flash when I pushed set and after repeated tries would engage. This lasted about 2 weeks until this weekend on a 1000 mile trip. It stopped working altogether. No flash, no cruise, no nothing. I’ll definitely be checking this out, oil mess or not, and ordering this soon.
Thanks again for the insight.
Good luck and thanks for the comment.
Just changed it. It took about 15 minutes.
Cruise is working again.
Thanks again for the insight.
@@tomreavis1176 I'm glad I could help and thanks for the comment.
GOOD VIDEO FOR FORD EXCURSION OWNERS.
FSmithSE1 thank you for the comment.
Thought E350 brake area access was tight till saw this . Thanks for info
Thanks for the comment.
This did the trick on my Ford F250 cruise control wasn't working and now it is. Thank you so much for the video and showing the part number.
I'm glad I could help. Thanks for the comment.
Was the cruise control light coming on at all, mine is not coming on thanks.
I have the same problem did you fix it thanks.
T Watson: Yes it did fixed it, the curse control works great now.
Should not need to bleed the brakes. This switch is not inline with any of the brake lines so there will be no air introduced to the brake lines.
thanks bro
No problem. Thanks for the comment.
I replaced the sensor on MY L99 F350 7.3 truck after testing the old one. The old one was bad. I AM getting power to the plug but even after replacing the sensor with the new, improved style my cruise still doesn't work. (For the longest time if my truck sat for a couple of weeks or so the cruise wouldn't work and I would keep hitting the buttons and it would work-now it won't even with the new sensor. I'm wondering if anyone knows how to correctly test the switches? (My horn does work and no ABS or air bag lights are on. Thanks!
I have an E250 Ford van an my cruse works every other day could this be my problem too? Great vid thanks.
It's a good possibility. The cruise control brake pressue switch on the master cylinder is prone to failure. That's why they resigned the switch. Oil leaks through it and shorts it out. It's a cheap repair and easy to do. Thanks for the comment.
Zero Fuel Required thank you I’ll try this first.
what size wrench did you use? was it narrow? I have little room there
It's been a long time since I did this video. I'm pretty sure I used my gear wrench 🔧 wrenches. They are strong and thin and are a swivel end box wrench. I use them for just about everything. Some of my favorite. Hope this helps. Thanks for the question.
On my 7.3 when I try to activate my cruise my light doesn’t even show up will this still fix it
@Bradley Harris Step 1
Open the fuse panel under the steering wheel by pulling up on the fuse panel release lever and pulling the fuse panel down.
Step 2
Check the fuses for the brake lights and the cruise control. Use the diagram on the underside of the fuse panel lid to locate both of these fuses. If the brake lights don't work or the fuse for them (or the cruise control module) is burnt or damaged, the system will not work.
Step 3
Start the vehicle and check the vacuum lines on the intake and brake booster. A vacuum leak will prevent the cruise control system from functioning properly. Rough idle and a "sucking" sound coming from the engine bay while the engine is running are clear indications that there is a vacuum leak. Vacuum leaks are simply holes in the intake hoses that allow excess air into the system. But if there is a leak, the cruise control will not be able to control the vehicle speed properly.
Step 4
Check the throttle cable. Damaged or frayed throttle cable will prevent the cruise control from being able to precisely control the throttle.
Step 5
Shut off the vehicle and disconnect the negative battery cable. Loosen the retaining nut on the negative battery cable and slide the cable off the cable clamp.
Check the cruise control module and combination stalk. These units rarely, if ever, fail. However, if the unit is bad, you'll want to know. Remove the screws holding the steering wheel column cover in place and pull the cover off the steering column with your fingers. Unplug the electrical plug from the cruise control switch and remove the screws holding the cruise control stalk to the steering column. Replace the unit with a known working stalk to confirm or deny switch failure.
Thanks for the question, I hope this helps.
@@ZeroFuelRequired thanks I’m guessing it’s the fuse under the steering wheel
@@haydentaylor7880 There is no fuse for the cruise control under the steering column plus I have checked all mine and they are all good and still no light.
When the switch is bad does it case the cruse light to not even come on or with it just not set but the cruse light is active?
I was wondering the same. Our 02 excursion cruise light doesn't even come on either
@@veronicamiller4018 I swapped the whole sensor that plugs into the break master. Fixed everything.
I replaced the part but still don't work, any other suggestion?
Step 1
Open the panel under the steering wheel to get easier access to the fuse box.
Step 2
Check the fuses for the brake lights and the cruise control. Use the diagram on the underside of the fuse panel lid to locate both of these fuses. If the brake lights don't work or the fuse for them (or the cruise control module) is burnt or damaged, the system will not work.
Step 3
Start the vehicle and check the vacuum lines on the intake and brake booster. A vacuum leak will prevent the cruise control system from functioning properly. Rough idle and a "sucking" sound coming from the engine bay while the engine is running are clear indications that there is a vacuum leak. Vacuum leaks are simply holes in the intake hoses that allow excess air into the system. But if there is a leak, the cruise control will not be able to control the vehicle speed properly.
Step 4
Check the throttle cable. Damaged or frayed throttle cable will prevent the cruise control from being able to precisely control the throttle.
Step 5
Shut off the vehicle and disconnect the negative battery cable. Loosen the retaining nut on the negative battery cable and slide the cable off the cable clamp.
Check the cruise control module and combination stalk. These units rarely, if ever, fail. However, if the unit is bad, you'll want to know. Remove the screws holding the steering wheel column cover in place and pull the cover off the steering column with your fingers. Unplug the electrical plug from the cruise control switch and remove the screws holding the cruise control stalk to the steering column. Replace the unit with a known working stalk to confirm or deny switch failure.
Thanks for the question, I hope this helps.
Got the part but the harness doesn’t fit like the plugs are different? Any help my local autozone isn’t any
Make sure you've got the correct replacement part. If you've got the correct part the wire loom that comes with it should adapt the old wiring to the new plug. I can't be much more help than that sorry.
This might help you, I also have a Amazon link in the video description for the correct part. It has a picture of the wire loom that it comes with to adapt the old to the new. Compare the picture with the one you have and see if they are the same. Thanks for the question.
Thank you very much a case of they had wrong part in the wrong box took back and got right one ,but cruise control still doesn’t work any other ideas?the part was leaking so needed to be replaced but thankyou again on the video
@@bradleyharris9563 Step 1
Open the fuse panel under the steering wheel by pulling up on the fuse panel release lever and pulling the fuse panel down.
Step 2
Check the fuses for the brake lights and the cruise control. Use the diagram on the underside of the fuse panel lid to locate both of these fuses. If the brake lights don't work or the fuse for them (or the cruise control module) is burnt or damaged, the system will not work.
Step 3
Start the vehicle and check the vacuum lines on the intake and brake booster. A vacuum leak will prevent the cruise control system from functioning properly. Rough idle and a "sucking" sound coming from the engine bay while the engine is running are clear indications that there is a vacuum leak. Vacuum leaks are simply holes in the intake hoses that allow excess air into the system. But if there is a leak, the cruise control will not be able to control the vehicle speed properly.
Step 4
Check the throttle cable. Damaged or frayed throttle cable will prevent the cruise control from being able to precisely control the throttle.
Step 5
Shut off the vehicle and disconnect the negative battery cable. Loosen the retaining nut on the negative battery cable and slide the cable off the cable clamp.
Check the cruise control module and combination stalk. These units rarely, if ever, fail. However, if the unit is bad, you'll want to know. Remove the screws holding the steering wheel column cover in place and pull the cover off the steering column with your fingers. Unplug the electrical plug from the cruise control switch and remove the screws holding the cruise control stalk to the steering column. Replace the unit with a known working stalk to confirm or deny switch failure.
Thanks for the question, I hope this helps.
I seem to remember the cruise control shut off was a ford recall in the past for causing fires and all they would do would put a fuse inline at the switch. If your shut off switch went bad it's a good possibility it popped the fuse.
This was already asked however I did not see an answer. Is this why the cruise control light does not come on thanks.
If your cruise isn't working and your cruise light isn't either. Check to see if the pressure switch has brake fluid leaking from it. All the original pressure switches fail the same way. Ford redesigned them. Fix the switch, the cruise and light should start working again. If cruise is working and the light is not then your bulb is probably burnt out.
Thanks for the question.
@@ZeroFuelRequired I changed this today still no cruise control. My cruise light does not come on either. Mine is a 1999 f250 super duty 4x4. 7.3 diesel. That part looked like it needed changing anyway. Any thing else would be appreciated I really need my cruise lol thanks.
@@twatson6252 First check for something really dumb. Is the E-brake pedal depressed just a hair? If it is, the cruise won't work until you completely release the E-brake.
If you had obdii scan tool to check the open closed state of the switches you could narrow down your the cause of your problem by running the KOER Switch Test which shows each switch's operation during the test duration. Start the test, press all the buttons on the steering wheel, cycle the brake pedal, etc. and it will give you a report of which switches didn't cycle.
If any of the switches are telling the cruise to disengage (clutch pedal switch, Brake Pressure switch, Brake pedal position switch, or e-brake switch ), then the cruise light won't come on.
⬇️⬇️I should've put this at the top!⬇️⬇️
Also
Check the following fuses:
Fuse 2-22(20A) - feeds the brake pressure switch.
Fuse 2-34(10A) - feeds the brake pressure position switch
Fuse 2-45(10A) - feeds the clutch pedal position switch (or jumper block for auto tranny trucks.
They all provide a 12V signal to the PCM, either making or breaking to tell the PCM to drop cruise out. If the pressure switch on the brake master cylinder went bad it could have blown the fuse.
If this doesn't find your problem then more than likely, you have a problem with your clock spring, which gets the signals between the PCM and steering wheel buttons. If it breaks, there's no signal to tell the cruise to engage (and light the indicator).
Before you dig into the clock spring (some or all circuits can be bad, with others OK), make sure that the 4 switch circuits mentioned above are intact. IIRC, an open circuit on the brake pressure switch will disable cruise, but the others take a closed circuit (12V applied to the PCM) to kill cruise.
I hope this helps.
@@twatson6252 Did you figure out the problem?
I did all this and it still did nothing you have any more advice
Step 1
Open the fuse panel under the steering wheel by pulling up on the fuse panel release lever and pulling the fuse panel down.
Step 2
Check the fuses for the brake lights and the cruise control. Use the diagram on the underside of the fuse panel lid to locate both of these fuses. If the brake lights don't work or the fuse for them (or the cruise control module) is burnt or damaged, the system will not work.
Step 3
Start the vehicle and check the vacuum lines on the intake and brake booster. A vacuum leak will prevent the cruise control system from functioning properly. Rough idle and a "sucking" sound coming from the engine bay while the engine is running are clear indications that there is a vacuum leak. Vacuum leaks are simply holes in the intake hoses that allow excess air into the system. But if there is a leak, the cruise control will not be able to control the vehicle speed properly.
Step 4
Check the throttle cable. Damaged or frayed throttle cable will prevent the cruise control from being able to precisely control the throttle.
Step 5
Shut off the vehicle and disconnect the negative battery cable. Loosen the retaining nut on the negative battery cable and slide the cable off the cable clamp.
Check the cruise control module and combination stalk. These units rarely, if ever, fail. However, if the unit is bad, you'll want to know. Remove the screws holding the steering wheel column cover in place and pull the cover off the steering column with your fingers. Unplug the electrical plug from the cruise control switch and remove the screws holding the cruise control stalk to the steering column. Replace the unit with a known working stalk to confirm or deny switch failure.
Thanks for the question, I hope this helps.
What sucks of this video is that it does not show changing the switch on a 2002 ford explorer
Well that's because this video is for a 2000 Ford Excursion or f250.
But it's the same exact pressure switch on all ford trucks, rangers, explorer and expeditions around these years. There might have been a recall on some of them leaking and causing fires. If yours is wet even with a tiny bit of brake fluid it has failed and is shorting out the switch which shuts off the cruise control. They re-designed the replacement switch(in the video) it won't look the same as the original but it screws in the same and works the same. Good luck.
Brakes will eventually bleed themselves. With the cap on the master cylinder having a vent and the surface of the top of your fluid being the highest point of the brake system, eventually all air bubbles will make their way to the top of the fluid in the master cylinder and out the vent. If it’s not pulling and the brakes don’t lock up they will be fine within a week.
That is not true. The vent hole is to let the seal under the cap lower down when the brakes wear out and the fluid goes down. The system is sealed not vented.
@@ntrpryz1 it is very much true. The cap is vented, and even if it isnt vented the air will still travel to the top of the surface of the fluid some point. Sorry son you are wrong
grigsolve I’m sorry son you are the one that’s wrong but who cares your giving out crap advice. Backyard mechanics always have a screwed up thought process hydraulics just don’t work that way. You don’t even know what the vent is for so how are you going to know how the system will bleed you should be banned from giving advice. Not only are you wrong but it’s dangerous having air in the system people could get hurt or worse from spongy brakes. Do you believe all that air would get back through an abs module?? Nope it won’t and brake lines don’t all run down hill. You are going to get someone hurt so stop giving advice where you obviously are not well versed
Sherm B. Are you saying that eventually air bubbles will not travel upward in the system to the top of the fluid surface? Are you really that stupid? You should be banned from breeding dummy, neeet guy.
M:
The absolute minimum effort by Ford to fix this correctly is exactly why I drove past the Ford dealer to get to the Toyota dealer to buy my new truck. Thanks Ford, I found out how much better Toyota products are than yours. I will never be back. I would not have known that had you not screwed me over.
Vehicle problems are a two way street. Every brand has their problems some worse than others. I've had Fords my entire life, I bought a 86 toyota 4x4 with a 22R engine 5 speed in 1990 with 40k miles on it to commute and get decent fuel mileage. I didn't beat it and never went offroad in three years Everything that could break or fail on that truck did. It was the worst truck I've ever owned and will never buy another Toyota in my life because of it. I sold it a 100k miles. Toyota has had a sleu of problems over the years and recalls. You can't blame Ford for choosing a cheap fix for a recall. Stupid yes that it has power full time and catches fire. but in the end it's a money game. My ford's have never let me down like my Toyota did. Toyota quality today is much better than it used to be. I don't knock many vehicles today quality is better. I still love my Fords and you're a Toyota person. It's all good. 😁👍
I think Toyota screwed a bunch of people with that soy wiring problem they had and they wouldn't warranty it in a recall. I canonly assume that they have fixed it on the newer trucks but a buddy of mine got really screwed on the deal with his Tundra.