Great video as always. One thing: you actually have expose to the right backwards. The idea of ETTR is to push as much information as possible to the right of the histogram not the left…getting the values as far right as possible before any clipping happens to the brightest areas of the image. This gives the most detailed shadows with very little noise which can then be brought back down in the edit, while also retaining detail the highlights as you have made sure to not let them clip. This makes for the cleanest image from shadows through to highlights rather than keeping things to the left which will result in more shadow noise when pulling the shadow values back up.
@@lukasvanderlende all good! I actually shoot the way you do (highlight weighted) on my Q3 quite often. ETTR can get dangerously close to blown out if you are not paying very close attention. I don't trust myself flying that close to the sun lol
Exactly how I use mine as well. I wanted to ask you a question. I'm new to camera scanning and just started, thanks to you, using my SL2 to scan some old film of mine. Do you ever use the multishot for scanning to give you crazy resolution? Scaning some Ektachrome 200 slide film from an old job I shot on my Hasselblad from YEARS ago. The macro I have is 1:2 so I couldn't do the old "shoot two frames filling the long edge and stitch them together" so just shot them with the center of the sensor. Which still got a 32mb file that looks MILES better than the old scans I had done back in the day. Tried to shoot them in multishot as well (cause why not) but a lot of them got real funky in the bright highlights. Just wondering if you have any experience with this? Thanks again for all the great videos man.
Thank you! And I used to use multishot on almost every scan until it really started slowing down my process and computer 😅 I haven’t come across that issue with it but I also haven’t scanned positive film with multi shot. Did you try adjusting exposure on the camera and lifting shadows??
@@lukasvanderlende I did actually. I was trying to lift a little out of a somewhat underexposed shot. I was thinking that might be the problem. I was getting "splotches" in the highlights in the sky. I'll mess around with it tomorrow more and report back. Thanks for the reply.
ETTR is the opposite of what you explained. It’s getting as much info (light) to the right before flipping and bringing the exposure down in post to avoid noisy shadows.
Yeah it's great but I found that different Sigma lenses have different thresholds of how short you can make the throw. I have 3 and one has them all greyed out up to 210 degrees, the other 270 degrees and the other 180 degrees. It's weird but 270 is short enough for me, but would be nice to be able to set them at 150 to be close to my M's.
That’s photography, 101. Exposed for the highlights. I don’t agree with the metering aspect though. Just use multi Field. You get the same result you generally shooting a stop under or a half a stop and use your blinkers
Great video as always. One thing: you actually have expose to the right backwards. The idea of ETTR is to push as much information as possible to the right of the histogram not the left…getting the values as far right as possible before any clipping happens to the brightest areas of the image. This gives the most detailed shadows with very little noise which can then be brought back down in the edit, while also retaining detail the highlights as you have made sure to not let them clip. This makes for the cleanest image from shadows through to highlights rather than keeping things to the left which will result in more shadow noise when pulling the shadow values back up.
Thanks for keeping me honest 😅
@@lukasvanderlende all good! I actually shoot the way you do (highlight weighted) on my Q3 quite often. ETTR can get dangerously close to blown out if you are not paying very close attention. I don't trust myself flying that close to the sun lol
Thank you for these SL2 tips. I really enjoyed them. MORE video please on using your SL2!!!
Thank you! And I hear ya! I’ve got more videos for the SL2 coming soon!
Very useful, I'll apply as many of these to my Panasonic S5 in the meantime, while I save for a SL2S.
Glad you found it useful!
I use almost identical settings on my SL2s. Great video man.
You get it, thanks man!
Thanks for the content. Would love more content about the SL-2s as it pertains to cinematography!
For sure! That’s coming as well!
Thanks Lukas! Great tips most I incorporate but the focus “wheel” on sl lenses I did not know about and will have to look into…
Thanks for watching! Yeah it’s really nice when you’re dialing in manual focus, it’s under the manual focus tools folder
Exactly how I use mine as well.
I wanted to ask you a question. I'm new to camera scanning and just started, thanks to you, using my SL2 to scan some old film of mine.
Do you ever use the multishot for scanning to give you crazy resolution? Scaning some Ektachrome 200 slide film from an old job I shot on my Hasselblad from YEARS ago. The macro I have is 1:2 so I couldn't do the old "shoot two frames filling the long edge and stitch them together" so just shot them with the center of the sensor. Which still got a 32mb file that looks MILES better than the old scans I had done back in the day. Tried to shoot them in multishot as well (cause why not) but a lot of them got real funky in the bright highlights. Just wondering if you have any experience with this?
Thanks again for all the great videos man.
Thank you! And I used to use multishot on almost every scan until it really started slowing down my process and computer 😅 I haven’t come across that issue with it but I also haven’t scanned positive film with multi shot. Did you try adjusting exposure on the camera and lifting shadows??
@@lukasvanderlende I did actually. I was trying to lift a little out of a somewhat underexposed shot. I was thinking that might be the problem. I was getting "splotches" in the highlights in the sky. I'll mess around with it tomorrow more and report back. Thanks for the reply.
ETTR is the opposite of what you explained. It’s getting as much info (light) to the right before flipping and bringing the exposure down in post to avoid noisy shadows.
I meant expose for the right 😅
Sadly, with Sigma lenses you can also choose a linear focusing and the number of degrees on SL2-S camera.😊
Oh, that must have been added in an update, thank you for letting me know! When I had a sigma lens it wasn’t available
@@lukasvanderlende Yes. You should also perform lens firmware upgrade for not recent Sigma lenses.
Thank you for sharing, I don’t have any sigma lenses currently but that is making the 14mm 1.4 look more appealing
Yeah it's great but I found that different Sigma lenses have different thresholds of how short you can make the throw. I have 3 and one has them all greyed out up to 210 degrees, the other 270 degrees and the other 180 degrees. It's weird but 270 is short enough for me, but would be nice to be able to set them at 150 to be close to my M's.
@bunnytobin oh that’s very interesting, and very weird
That’s photography, 101. Exposed for the highlights. I don’t agree with the metering aspect though. Just use multi Field. You get the same result you generally shooting a stop under or a half a stop and use your blinkers
Everyone has their own preferences