The best part of RC is the wrenching and fixing. It wouldn't be the same if stuff was indestructible. Most people would say I dunno what's happened but with your experience and understanding of the hobby you instantly identified the problem as a snapped piston rod. That's the beauty of RC, fun and learning at the same time.
Big factz bro couldn't have said that shiiii any better at all. I live wrenchn on my Nitro cars. I use to work on car n4 I git shot 8yrs ago n now I'm paralyzed in a wheelchair so now that I can't wrench in my cars like I use to n get dwn on ground to get under a car this RC stuff is the next best thing I guess. So I dove into it head first n it's just like a real car no lie. Run break it n fix n repeat it over again n again lmfao. So far I got 6 rc car n just pickd up myself another vintage rc10t3 electric n only got that bcuz of price n I needed it bcuz I have a vintage Rc10gt nitro n needed parts to fix up my Nitro RC. Both are all original everything n there the real old one bcuz they DNT even have the hex wheel it's just the pins in it n the rims got slots that pin sits in. Now that I git both n I put a battery in the t3 n it run n all it's slow but that all they had back then lol it's a big difference now wit the motors n esc they have now I could make it into a monster frfr. That y I dk if I wanna take it apart to use for parts on my get nitro version.not much I need fir the get but think I'ma just get another motor n esc for the t3 just to see wat it will do bcuz never had an electric RC car I'm to much of a motor head to just have all electric stuff n not hear no sounds from it nah I wanna hearthe motor n smell the gas from em that's just who I am. Got off topic there but yea nice identifying wat the problem was n that's the good part about RC cars at some point u gonna have to work on it for somn. Could be dom lil as the wheels or axle or wheel bearing u gonna have to do it or pay som1 to do somn u can nah I'm not gonna pay when I can do the same exact thing they gonna do n charge u to much
@@alsa1589 but not this size. Only rc planes go to 50k. A nitro car 1.8+ ccs only goes to 30k. Anything smaller more. Unless you have some serious tuning
Le réglage semblait assez riche pourtant 🤔 pas mal de fumée à l'accélération c'est bizarre cette bielle qui casse comme ça... Vu la limaille il devait y avoir une saleté entre la chemise et le piston
this kids, is how not to lean out your nitro RC. just a small tip for anyone in the hobby: if you don't see anymore smoke or almost no smoke coming from the exhaust you can tell its too lean. if you want to run your engine longer, give it some fuel. don't starve it to death.
Ouch. I felt that one man. My Tmaxx 3.3 blew up today. My motor mount came loose at wide open, so my engine free revved very high for a split second before it chucked the rod. Made the same sound yours did. RIP.
Ive got a trx 2.5 in a custom built live axle rear end vrx short course thing rips tyres pff rwd only amd sings at high rpms yet too see it pop been trying trust me haha and it gets bloody hot asf too
You leaned it out that last time wayyyy to much.......hour turns at a time....you turned it in all most a half turn......THATS why it let go my friend...
@QUICKSCOPPER Doubt that very much. Oil is not all it's cranked up to be in these engines. Anything above 12% just causes overheating and sooty deposits.
When i was younger i used to have a Thunder Tiger. One time it got stuck under a car and the engine ran away but luckily it didn't blow up as there wasn't much fuel left in it. The engine was never the same again after that. It lost loads of compression and wouldn't rev that high so put another one in.
last fall i was running my HPI Bullet .. the battery plug came loose from the receiver and it took off full throttle out of control... scared the shit out of me, luckily there were no people or roads around ( i was in a construction area) but it went screaming past me about 70km/h and smashed into a big rock.. good the whole truck is upgraded to having aluminum parts for everything possible so it survived but the motor is fucked.. destroyed my slipper clutch and lost all compression in the motor, will run unloaded fine but no power at all trying to drive..snails are faster LOL .. luckily i found a rebuild lit cheap with sleeve, piston and con rod so hopefully she'll be back to speed soon.. and that plug from power switch to receiver has since gotten a dab of ca glue LOL
You leaned it out abit too much id say and overheated the bearing....i could hear really high pitched peak revs...should always leave a room for max revs.
You're right it wasn't tuned properly. But still shouldn't blow like that especially high end engines like that. I used to run some cheap engines very lean and overheat them and they just keep running.
Racing Bashing RCs cheap engines dont have tight tolerances as the high end engines have these have been tuned tested and should run at correct settings to achieve the performance of finely crafted masterpiece....what im trying to say is these tight tolerances have fine balance do not exceed the tune.
Awesome that someone else could hear that the engine didn't have the greatest tuning. I agree as well. You could hear that the engine had more potential but it was struggling. Sometimes the engine will give off a particular smell when it's overheating, but another sign is great power when you first tune the engine, but as the heat rises, the lack of of cooling and lubrication will bog the engine down causing it to seize up. Hopefully you can rebuild this engine pretty easily.
Your motors probably finished even if you change the rod maybe it touched the little rod connected to the main rod there might always be play in there.
yup.. probably caused damage to the crank journal, the cylinder liner and the piston too ... just buy a new engine and keep the old one for salvaging parts
That was stock pipe that came with 5.2 which i was going to replace in the future. That was just a test run. And the tools are best bang for the money great quality
@@racingbashingrcs8330 I'm not knocking, I started out with those tools and they work for the money. As for the pipe, it may have been on it when you got it, but the Nitrage came with a plastic pipe. I know that manifold anywhere, I have 4 of them. The pipe set comes from China. Sold for under $20 on eBay. I'm not knocking it either, I was able to make plenty of power with it. Problem was they are thin and soft, any contact would collapse it. And if you do the ice trick they split. That's why I have 4 manifolds and only a couple of the pipes left. Speaking of the manifold, I like them. The mounting flange where the springs attach is super thick, no chance of wearing through (a problem on Jammin jp series manifolds for example) a little Dremel work to clean up the welds on the inside and it's a great manifold. Although I have come to prefer double bent myself.
This is what happens when you’ve over reved a nitro multiple times. Plus those Picco Boost engines are POS motors. Either rod issues or mystery flame outs when I was on the American team.
What's up man... I'm from ne philly let me know where are you going to bash I see if I come back with this hobby. I have savage xl sitting at the garage.
Get one of these instead. You'll be money ahead and get a more powerful and more reliable engine. Just add ceramic bearings and you're good to go. www.rbmods.net/nova-rossi-plus-28-7t-rbmods.html?category_id=7 This is also a great mill if you like a screamer. www.rbmods.net/novarossi-keepoff-xlb-7-port-buggy-21-rbmods.html?category_id=46
Thats weird i built a 1 speed rwd nitro specific for burnouts amd its gets that hot you cant touch it yet too have engine failuee amd been trying too kill it has been theough atoeast 6 tanks having the ass flogged out of it till it runs dry i dp run the mix rich as all hell tho
Everyone in the comments be like: YoU RaN To LEAN While I still see smoke. The real reason is that Picco uses weak POS connecting rods and especially the first rod needs to be replaced right after break in as the engine has a lot of compression when new and it is a lot of stress on the already weak rod
Damn, sorry that sucks. Same thing happened to me about a month ago in a Picco as well. It was my modded Mega Zx 28 in the LST2. I also had it happen in a Picco Maxx .26 I had a while back. I’m starting to think picco Rods are inferior. The Mega Zx 28 was Modified though so it would stay in the high rpm range. I only had like 2 gallons through it including break in. How much fuel you had through your Picco Boost?
I'm not sure how much fuel I had through it. But it was still pretty tight and had strong compression. Picco used to be my favorite brand. Now after reading all the forums about their rods breaking I will probably switch to nova completely
@@racingbashingrcs8330 Really? Did it get damaged or scratched? If not then it shouldn’t have lost any compression since it didn’t over-rev and overheat, just abruptly quit.
The best part of RC is the wrenching and fixing. It wouldn't be the same if stuff was indestructible. Most people would say I dunno what's happened but with your experience and understanding of the hobby you instantly identified the problem as a snapped piston rod. That's the beauty of RC, fun and learning at the same time.
Yep, couldn't have said it better
Big factz bro couldn't have said that shiiii any better at all. I live wrenchn on my Nitro cars. I use to work on car n4 I git shot 8yrs ago n now I'm paralyzed in a wheelchair so now that I can't wrench in my cars like I use to n get dwn on ground to get under a car this RC stuff is the next best thing I guess. So I dove into it head first n it's just like a real car no lie. Run break it n fix n repeat it over again n again lmfao. So far I got 6 rc car n just pickd up myself another vintage rc10t3 electric n only got that bcuz of price n I needed it bcuz I have a vintage Rc10gt nitro n needed parts to fix up my Nitro RC. Both are all original everything n there the real old one bcuz they DNT even have the hex wheel it's just the pins in it n the rims got slots that pin sits in. Now that I git both n I put a battery in the t3 n it run n all it's slow but that all they had back then lol it's a big difference now wit the motors n esc they have now I could make it into a monster frfr. That y I dk if I wanna take it apart to use for parts on my get nitro version.not much I need fir the get but think I'ma just get another motor n esc for the t3 just to see wat it will do bcuz never had an electric RC car I'm to much of a motor head to just have all electric stuff n not hear no sounds from it nah I wanna hearthe motor n smell the gas from em that's just who I am. Got off topic there but yea nice identifying wat the problem was n that's the good part about RC cars at some point u gonna have to work on it for somn. Could be dom lil as the wheels or axle or wheel bearing u gonna have to do it or pay som1 to do somn u can nah I'm not gonna pay when I can do the same exact thing they gonna do n charge u to much
@@obezzyjohnson9680 Woah that was a big comment! I'm with you on all your points though.👍
Haha I literally learned how to fix my old yz 85 from my experience with nitro rc
This, kids, is why you don't yeet your engines up to 50,000 rpm.
Lol
They only rev to 30k
@@alexcrafter_ There are also rc engine with 50k
@@alsa1589 but not this size. Only rc planes go to 50k. A nitro car 1.8+ ccs only goes to 30k. Anything smaller more. Unless you have some serious tuning
Le réglage semblait assez riche pourtant 🤔 pas mal de fumée à l'accélération c'est bizarre cette bielle qui casse comme ça... Vu la limaille il devait y avoir une saleté entre la chemise et le piston
I dont own a nitro rc but i felt that
this kids, is how not to lean out your nitro RC.
just a small tip for anyone in the hobby: if you don't see anymore smoke or almost no smoke coming from the exhaust you can tell its too lean.
if you want to run your engine longer, give it some fuel.
don't starve it to death.
Geez, If that was to happen in flight on my RC Plane...
Felt that bro.
Lol i agree
Ok I'm the only nice one here
Y
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2:30
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Every nitro rc car enthusiasts needs a place just like this to play
Ahhhh man I’m in deep pain right now don’t worry you’re gonna fix it have fun my boy
This thing is so damn fast n aggressive amazing 👏
Ouch. I felt that one man. My Tmaxx 3.3 blew up today. My motor mount came loose at wide open, so my engine free revved very high for a split second before it chucked the rod. Made the same sound yours did. RIP.
Ouch that sucks man
Ive got a trx 2.5 in a custom built live axle rear end vrx short course thing rips tyres pff rwd only amd sings at high rpms yet too see it pop been trying trust me haha and it gets bloody hot asf too
You leaned it out that last time wayyyy to much.......hour turns at a time....you turned it in all most a half turn......THATS why it let go my friend...
had this happen to mine when it was in idle. Only broke the connecting rod bearing, so im able the repair it.
2:35
Thanks bro
Wow, that're fast cars! Cool!
Thanks!
That looks like a fatigue fail due to a stress riser. I did not expect that from a Picco. I'd think the quality control was better.
Yea I always had good luck with picco engines.
@QUICKSCOPPER Doubt that very much. Oil is not all it's cranked up to be in these engines. Anything above 12% just causes overheating and sooty deposits.
U wanna blew it. Just put the high speed needle very lean
If only car and bike engines were this easy to fix
Lol right
You called it.
When i was younger i used to have a Thunder Tiger. One time it got stuck under a car and the engine ran away but luckily it didn't blow up as there wasn't much fuel left in it. The engine was never the same again after that. It lost loads of compression and wouldn't rev that high so put another one in.
Wow that sucks!
last fall i was running my HPI Bullet .. the battery plug came loose from the receiver and it took off full throttle out of control... scared the shit out of me, luckily there were no people or roads around ( i was in a construction area) but it went screaming past me about 70km/h and smashed into a big rock.. good the whole truck is upgraded to having aluminum parts for everything possible so it survived but the motor is fucked.. destroyed my slipper clutch and lost all compression in the motor, will run unloaded fine but no power at all trying to drive..snails are faster LOL .. luckily i found a rebuild lit cheap with sleeve, piston and con rod so hopefully she'll be back to speed soon.. and that plug from power switch to receiver has since gotten a dab of ca glue LOL
never seen a nitro engine blow up dam that's a first, also did you replace the whole engine or did you get a new piston?
I replaced connecting rod only
I feel you
thanks for sharing! now i know not to buy that piece of eh junk
You leaned it out abit too much id say and overheated the bearing....i could hear really high pitched peak revs...should always leave a room for max revs.
You're right it wasn't tuned properly. But still shouldn't blow like that especially high end engines like that. I used to run some cheap engines very lean and overheat them and they just keep running.
Racing Bashing RCs cheap engines dont have tight tolerances as the high end engines have these have been tuned tested and should run at correct settings to achieve the performance of finely crafted masterpiece....what im trying to say is these tight tolerances have fine balance do not exceed the tune.
Awesome that someone else could hear that the engine didn't have the greatest tuning. I agree as well. You could hear that the engine had more potential but it was struggling. Sometimes the engine will give off a particular smell when it's overheating, but another sign is great power when you first tune the engine, but as the heat rises, the lack of of cooling and lubrication will bog the engine down causing it to seize up. Hopefully you can rebuild this engine pretty easily.
Wasn't suprised it blew up. Sounds like it's running too lean..
even leaned it out a bit more as he was running it
Bummer, dude!
yea that sucks
I blame the screwdriver!!! 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
poor fuel..seems that the fuel doesn't has any castor oil in it.
Actually I was running Buyrons 25% fuel. They're known as one of the best
Your motors probably finished even if you change the rod maybe it touched the little rod connected to the main rod there might always be play in there.
I don't thing i will be rebuilding this engine. Parts are too expensive
yup.. probably caused damage to the crank journal, the cylinder liner and the piston too ... just buy a new engine and keep the old one for salvaging parts
This is a rare picco boost engine the parts are exspencive but if you rebuild iT please change crang bearings to
Yea I already rebuilt it without changing the bearing. I didn't think it needed it
Con rod left the chat
A Nitrage with a picco boost, and the cheapest pipe and tools you can buy on eBay.
That was stock pipe that came with 5.2 which i was going to replace in the future. That was just a test run. And the tools are best bang for the money great quality
@@racingbashingrcs8330 I'm not knocking, I started out with those tools and they work for the money. As for the pipe, it may have been on it when you got it, but the Nitrage came with a plastic pipe. I know that manifold anywhere, I have 4 of them. The pipe set comes from China. Sold for under $20 on eBay. I'm not knocking it either, I was able to make plenty of power with it. Problem was they are thin and soft, any contact would collapse it. And if you do the ice trick they split. That's why I have 4 manifolds and only a couple of the pipes left. Speaking of the manifold, I like them. The mounting flange where the springs attach is super thick, no chance of wearing through (a problem on Jammin jp series manifolds for example) a little Dremel work to clean up the welds on the inside and it's a great manifold. Although I have come to prefer double bent myself.
This is what happens when you’ve over reved a nitro multiple times. Plus those Picco Boost engines are POS motors. Either rod issues or mystery flame outs when I was on the American team.
What's up man... I'm from ne philly let me know where are you going to bash I see if I come back with this hobby. I have savage xl sitting at the garage.
I'm not too far from ne philly, maybe like 20 mins. Let me have your contacts maybe an email and I'll let you know next time we run
that's alot of damage!
Luckily it was only a Picco 💩 time for a real engine 🏎💨 Did you run it too lean?
Oh Man.
Is that a 28 or 21? I'm still looking for a Boost 28 but not if the rods are that weak.
That was .21 5tr
Get one of these instead. You'll be money ahead and get a more powerful and more reliable engine. Just add ceramic bearings and you're good to go.
www.rbmods.net/nova-rossi-plus-28-7t-rbmods.html?category_id=7
This is also a great mill if you like a screamer.
www.rbmods.net/novarossi-keepoff-xlb-7-port-buggy-21-rbmods.html?category_id=46
@@AB-80X Never saw this response but I had him mod me an LRP .32 and a 28-8. I just wanted to try a Picco .28 to see what it's like.
Thats weird i built a 1 speed rwd nitro specific for burnouts amd its gets that hot you cant touch it yet too have engine failuee amd been trying too kill it has been theough atoeast 6 tanks having the ass flogged out of it till it runs dry i dp run the mix rich as all hell tho
what kind of motor is it? so i dont buy it
picco 5tr
Was running lean on and off had to be a air leak on the tank
Everyone in the comments be like: YoU RaN To LEAN While I still see smoke. The real reason is that Picco uses weak POS connecting rods and especially the first rod needs to be replaced right after break in as the engine has a lot of compression when new and it is a lot of stress on the already weak rod
Ouch!
Reason why I don't race with a pecco... I rather race with my bullitt b220
Same shit happend to my Kyosho KE25 engine the other day... Also connecting rod =/
Cant be to hard on such a little motor and always run it a little rich not to much but just a little
How did it just do that it was running sweet
Wish I knew lol. My guess is it probably was little lean
Damn, sorry that sucks. Same thing happened to me about a month ago in a Picco as well. It was my modded Mega Zx 28 in the LST2. I also had it happen in a Picco Maxx .26 I had a while back. I’m starting to think picco Rods are inferior. The Mega Zx 28 was Modified though so it would stay in the high rpm range. I only had like 2 gallons through it including break in. How much fuel you had through your Picco Boost?
I'm not sure how much fuel I had through it. But it was still pretty tight and had strong compression. Picco used to be my favorite brand. Now after reading all the forums about their rods breaking I will probably switch to nova completely
Sounds like that picco boost don't like two speeds has it ever blown up in a 1 speed
Don Foss I’m sure they probably have. Because it would rev even higher in a single speed setup
Well I guess I'll have to see if mine going to blow up👍😤😤
Which one do you have?
Damn that’s sucks sheesh...
Lol yea that "60mph truggy" died too fast
Shit happens when you run nitros to lean
Too lean in high speed needle? Very nice ur 370z!!
Thanks, yea I think it was too lean
How did that rod broke, is it moded engine?
No, it's stock engine
What truggy is that with 2 speed?
Tamiya nitrage with optional transmission
Did u fix it yet
no i sold it already
Are the piston and sleeve ok?
yes still ok but compression is not as strong as before
@@racingbashingrcs8330 Really? Did it get damaged or scratched? If not then it shouldn’t have lost any compression since it didn’t over-rev and overheat, just abruptly quit.
biela de calamina mala
Shift point set too low
was my first time running this truck so the shift point was set from the factory
I just blew up my electric buggy big sad
Now that's not good
Hope u get her fixed
Thanks, looking for a new rod rn
@@racingbashingrcs8330 did you end up fixing the connecting rod?
I think it’s to lean
Wow & she was fast too 💩....they always run best right before they go 😔
Oh well. I'm not too upset lol.
Btw It still wasn't tuned. I was just trying to see if transmission shifts properly.