These videos are perfect for novices , simply explained with no waffle and gets your car running. Ive been watching a lot of your videos recently and they are excellent ty
Ouuu so nice to see the tune pipe in action. Seem like the pipe is pushing the engine to it limits as if it wants more power. Owners of this jp 6 pipe are pretty happy with it. Fact it's given better lap times out of all the jp pipes. A lions roar rrruuffff. Thanks for posting
Good video. You explained very well. Years ago a guy explained the high speed needle and low speed is like your garden hose. The nozzle on the house is the high speed and controls main flow of water. The sprayer at end of house is low speed needle and controls what comes out or into the engine.
Great video mate! It’s interesting how there are some guys out there who advocate for tuning low speed first. But that doesn’t make sense to me. The high speed governs the total amount of fuel flow to the carb. So this sets the amount of fuel available for mixture setting by the low speed as well. Once HS is right, any subsequent adjustments automatically affect the LS as well (and idle!). Not sure if that affect is linear or not but in my experience, once HS and LS are set, you only rarely need very small adjustments. Leaving you to enjoy the car! Mind you, the seasonal temperature differences are less in sunny Oz so maybe in Europe you’ll have multiple tunes? This is great content for novices and experienced audiences alike. I enjoy this content as a refresher. Great work mate keep it up! ❤
Jus got my 2nd car & this video has helped me a lot.. I couldn't tune it for the life of me but I got it just right.. not perfect but it's got where it needs to be.. thank you!
The temperature is important when running in the engine in. For example the engine should be at least 80 degrees celsius. Otherwise the break in process wont have the desired effect when its too cold.
I've just watched this video again and I think some of you forgot that the haggard tuned this car on a day that was nearly -2 I think the buggy was running mint.
Such a good video, really good job. You explained what to do perfectly, wish i could have seen a video like this thirty odd years ago when I started playing around with nitro car's 😂😂
Yeah my MP9 TKI4 is awesome, I have a fully upgraded version full of MP9/MP10 kit parts. But if your budget can stretch, I would recommend getting the MP10 RTR version just came out couple of weeks ago, would’ve brought one if it came out before the time I brought mine. KYOSHO GANG. NITRO ALL DAY!!!🏎️💨🤟🏾
@@ChrisKuwaitit all depends, If your looking to upgrade in the future with mp10 kit parts the RTR version of the MP10 is a good platform to start with. If you just what to enjoy the hobby, The mp9 is still a great choice and share similar parts, You can still upgrade the MP9 if you wish or if your budget allows, Love my MP9.
I’m so glad you explained ticking over. I was like hmmmm🤔🤔🤔. This I think is the perfect explanation for even the pro’s old school knowledge out performs hear say. I was wondering as why no left steering??? Need some servos or linkage?
Having trouble adjust the brakes on my hsp nitro buggy. How tight do you have to have the brake disk inside the 2 metal clips? thanks, love your channel. Michigan usa here
yes, played around with linkages but still doesnt stop well. When i hit the brakes, it just slows down and idle lowers but car doesnt lock up. On the linkage pin, do you want it out of the brakes or closer in(hope that makes sense).@@HaggardRC
What's the name of that nice coat you're wearing. Thanks for the video and the info. I've just started to get into rc motorcycles and cars. Watch. your videos a lot. Geff
You know you hit the lean spot on the high speed then backed off so you know the high speed is good . The balance is getting the bottom to match the top now . There for you need to lean the bottom. They have charts explaining this stuff on google
It’s all about eyes and ears mate not charts lol. It’s not an art form, especially for beginners, which is who this video is aimed at 😜. Less complication and more simpleness. At the end of the day it’s an engine, as long as it runs, that’s all that matters. There’s no need to worry about it just enjoy it 🤷🏻♂️
@@HaggardRC it is an art for when done properly and it’s super easy to do right . Why not just show the proper way instead of saying there is no difference and not even be able to produce a single stage it’s like your mad that there is a single stage and let’s just say it can’t be done sounds kind of salty 🤣
Is this engine the .21 size. My only experience is with aircraft glow engines. Totaly different beasts in the performance range. But the basics are pretty much the same. Great video bud. And Hello from New Zealand. Eg. My highest revving engine is a Yamada FS91AC supercharged 4 stroke. 30% nitro, 20% oil. Gets a good 11Krpm with a 14"x9" 3 blade. Compared to my ASP91FS on 10% nitro, 9.8Krpm with a 13"x6" or 15"x4" 2 blade props.
There’s not a difference if you’re simply trying to get your car to run, over complicating it for beginners never helps them. All they want is to be able to use their car. So silly throttle gaps and all that stuff just makes it more daunting for them and puts some off. The best thing is to make it simple, leave out all the rubbish and leave the basic stuff, that way they’ll have more chance of getting it to a stage where they can enjoy it. They can decide if they want to over complicate it later on once they’ve got the hang of simply getting the engine to run lol.
I've asked you this once before but I lost the link. Where did you get the red kyosho add ons from. The side rails/ mudguards and I'm also looking for a red receiver and battery box. Any help would be appreciated 👍🏾
Hello, i have accel 1/8 buggy with alpha 21 3.5cc engine. On 120 celsius temperature 50% throttle lot of smoke and when i press full throttle the car is slow down and shut off... Do you know stock setting for this car? Thanks and sorry for bad english.
To properly tune it you need to lean the bottom and lower the idle gap until you come back from a full speed pass and the rpm drops immediately that’s why it’s called a single stage .it doesn’t rise and doesn’t drop these are facts not just some still stuff that someone made up 😂
Im a relative beginner to tuning RC car engines, and I think this video gets you close enough and thats what the point of the video is. To tune out the two stage idle here, the person tuning it needs to have a level of sensitivity to whats going on that can't be achieved straight away. The difference between correct and incorrect becomes turning the adjuster to within the thickness of the screwdriver blade.
That's right @richw0123 two stage idle means nothing that's important so it's not worth confusing begginers. The aim of the game is to get their car usable 😋
@@TheFPVEra that’s what I’m saying it’s super easy to do correctly only reason people get mad and say it doesn’t matter is if they can’t do it correctly 🤣
@@HaggardRC ok just wondering ur last couple of clips were really good I was wondering if u had the original savage motor in ur truck cause it seems like I go through a motor in like six months the piston goes all the way through the sleeve when I push it and it doesn’t idle good and ur tuning all the time I don’t know if u had a opinion about it
@@HaggardRC yea that’s cool how did it last so long my compression seems to ware out fast idk if it’s just the t maxx 3.3 or it’s me doing something wrong
Your idle gas is way to big that’s why the engine is reving when you come back and let off the throttle . The racing engine sound is the first stage . Then the drop is the second stage . These are facts . Google it lol . The reason for the Rpm drop is the super rich low speed and super big idle gap . Nice try tho !!!
These videos are perfect for novices , simply explained with no waffle and gets your car running. Ive been watching a lot of your videos recently and they are excellent ty
You're welcome, thanks for the kind words 😁
Yeah that jacket is warm and fresh looking buddy 😂👍👍👍
Ouuu so nice to see the tune pipe in action. Seem like the pipe is pushing the engine to it limits as if it wants more power. Owners of this jp 6 pipe are pretty happy with it. Fact it's given better lap times out of all the jp pipes. A lions roar rrruuffff. Thanks for posting
It does sound awesome that’s for sure 😁
The jacket looks great dude also the new pipe sounds absolutely amazing, great work man I bet this really helped a lot of people!
I hope so 😁
Great video. You explained the tuning process really well, so thank you. It’s all common sense at the end of the day. Like your jacket
Thank you, all I want to do is help those who don't know.
Thanks for the advice I just ordered a mp10 😊
Good video. You explained very well. Years ago a guy explained the high speed needle and low speed is like your garden hose. The nozzle on the house is the high speed and controls main flow of water. The sprayer at end of house is low speed needle and controls what comes out or into the engine.
Great video mate! It’s interesting how there are some guys out there who advocate for tuning low speed first. But that doesn’t make sense to me. The high speed governs the total amount of fuel flow to the carb. So this sets the amount of fuel available for mixture setting by the low speed as well. Once HS is right, any subsequent adjustments automatically affect the LS as well (and idle!). Not sure if that affect is linear or not but in my experience, once HS and LS are set, you only rarely need very small adjustments. Leaving you to enjoy the car! Mind you, the seasonal temperature differences are less in sunny Oz so maybe in Europe you’ll have multiple tunes? This is great content for novices and experienced audiences alike. I enjoy this content as a refresher. Great work mate keep it up! ❤
Jus got my 2nd car & this video has helped me a lot.. I couldn't tune it for the life of me but I got it just right.. not perfect but it's got where it needs to be.. thank you!
You’re welcome :)
Thanks very much buddy had to rewrite out The comment Phone keeps freezing on UA-cam. Nice one 👍.
This really helped me, you also really sound like you know what you are talking about.
Glad it helped you mate 🤘🏻
The temperature is important when running in the engine in. For example the engine should be at least 80 degrees celsius. Otherwise the break in process wont have the desired effect when its too cold.
That’s right indeed, I have a running in video somewhere. 🤷🏻♂️
looking forward to it because i have some running in to do with my Reds@@HaggardRC
Brand new outta the box I've went through a gallon n some trying to air lift break in testing this is a nightmare on Nitro street !!!!!
Thanks Ben, I’m looking forward to seeing that tekno with the .32 running, if you can do a tunnel run with it. Thanks
A tunnel run haha! You recon I’d be able to pull that off lol.
I've just watched this video again and I think some of you forgot that the haggard tuned this car on a day that was nearly -2 I think the buggy was running mint.
Such a good video, really good job.
You explained what to do perfectly, wish i could have seen a video like this thirty odd years ago when I started playing around with nitro car's 😂😂
Haha like you I got my first one 22 years ago, I just worked it out myself. 😁
Temp is very important to the tune and lifespan of engine
I got a good grasp on tuning the high speed needle but i still dont quite understand the low speed needle and when to mess with the idle screw
Haha I'm glad you posted this. I've had my eye on the MP9 for a couple weeks now.
Get ittttt you’ll love it!
Yeah my MP9 TKI4 is awesome, I have a fully upgraded version full of MP9/MP10 kit parts. But if your budget can stretch, I would recommend getting the MP10 RTR version just came out couple of weeks ago, would’ve brought one if it came out before the time I brought mine. KYOSHO GANG. NITRO ALL DAY!!!🏎️💨🤟🏾
The MP9 Tki4 V2 I can get for right at $389. The MP10 bumps up close to $550. Is it worth the $160 extra?
@@ChrisKuwait Never had an MP10 so I couldn’t tell ya mate sorry lol
@@ChrisKuwaitit all depends, If your looking to upgrade in the future with mp10 kit parts the RTR version of the MP10 is a good platform to start with. If you just what to enjoy the hobby, The mp9 is still a great choice and share similar parts, You can still upgrade the MP9 if you wish or if your budget allows, Love my MP9.
Good video there mate! Interesting
I’m so glad you explained ticking over. I was like hmmmm🤔🤔🤔. This I think is the perfect explanation for even the pro’s old school knowledge out performs hear say. I was wondering as why no left steering??? Need some servos or linkage?
I still haven’t had a chance to look at the steering, it’s binding somewhere that’s all I know lol.
I carry a little temperature gun just to check every once in a while and I try to keep it just under 250°Fahrenheit.
where did you get the red wing and the red mud guards from? those are not standard. you have to be one of the best engine tuners on youtube mate!!
Kyosho spares mate, he has eBay but a website too. google it bur I'll send you the link later if I remember.
Here: kyoshospares.co.uk/
@@HaggardRC thank so much!
Having trouble adjust the brakes on my hsp nitro buggy. How tight do you have to have the brake disk inside the 2 metal clips? thanks, love your channel. Michigan usa here
The callipers shouldn’t be too tight, they should be loose when the brakes are off. Have you played around with the linkages?
yes, played around with linkages but still doesnt stop well. When i hit the brakes, it just slows down and idle lowers but car doesnt lock up. On the linkage pin, do you want it out of the brakes or closer in(hope that makes sense).@@HaggardRC
What's the name of that nice coat you're wearing.
Thanks for the video and the info. I've just started to get into rc motorcycles and cars. Watch. your videos a lot. Geff
It’s a coat from Answer-RC 👍🏻👌🏻
Great video! I love my mp9 nitro
Helpful just put a new engine in my revo
You know you hit the lean spot on the high speed then backed off so you know the high speed is good . The balance is getting the bottom to match the top now . There for you need to lean the bottom. They have charts explaining this stuff on google
It’s all about eyes and ears mate not charts lol.
It’s not an art form, especially for beginners, which is who this video is aimed at 😜. Less complication and more simpleness.
At the end of the day it’s an engine, as long as it runs, that’s all that matters. There’s no need to worry about it just enjoy it 🤷🏻♂️
@@HaggardRC it is an art for when done properly and it’s super easy to do right . Why not just show the proper way instead of saying there is no difference and not even be able to produce a single stage it’s like your mad that there is a single stage and let’s just say it can’t be done sounds kind of salty 🤣
Is this engine the .21 size. My only experience is with aircraft glow engines. Totaly different beasts in the performance range. But the basics are pretty much the same. Great video bud. And Hello from New Zealand. Eg. My highest revving engine is a Yamada FS91AC supercharged 4 stroke. 30% nitro, 20% oil. Gets a good 11Krpm with a 14"x9" 3 blade. Compared to my ASP91FS on 10% nitro, 9.8Krpm with a 13"x6" or 15"x4" 2 blade props.
Yeah it’s .21. I’d like to get into planes again… never really took off for me when I was younger 🤦🏻♂️😂😂
If the high speed is good . Then lean the bottom and lower the idle gap very simple . There is a difference if you say so or not it’s a fact lol
There’s not a difference if you’re simply trying to get your car to run, over complicating it for beginners never helps them. All they want is to be able to use their car. So silly throttle gaps and all that stuff just makes it more daunting for them and puts some off. The best thing is to make it simple, leave out all the rubbish and leave the basic stuff, that way they’ll have more chance of getting it to a stage where they can enjoy it. They can decide if they want to over complicate it later on once they’ve got the hang of simply getting the engine to run lol.
I've asked you this once before but I lost the link. Where did you get the red kyosho add ons from. The side rails/ mudguards and I'm also looking for a red receiver and battery box. Any help would be appreciated 👍🏾
Kyoshospares.com
Great video thanks!
excellent vid
Thank you :)
Sweet dude
😁
Mp9 video nitro like nitro you has Newbuggy i like 🇺🇸🇬🇧🥶❄️ Memphis
Hello, i have accel 1/8 buggy with alpha 21 3.5cc engine. On 120 celsius temperature 50% throttle lot of smoke and when i press full throttle the car is slow down and shut off...
Do you know stock setting for this car?
Thanks and sorry for bad english.
I don't know the stock settings but it sounds like it's too rich, lean it off slightly and see what it does.
did you ever touch the idle screw?
I can’t remember that far back lol what ever you see in the video is what I did 😂
That's were I failed lol smh 😠😖😖twisted all of the needles omg now the slider want open for idling and my engine reached 256 degrees 😱😱😱😱😱🔥or nah???
Prooer👌
🙌🏾💯🙏🏾💪🏾🥃
To properly tune it you need to lean the bottom and lower the idle gap until you come back from a full speed pass and the rpm drops immediately that’s why it’s called a single stage .it doesn’t rise and doesn’t drop these are facts not just some still stuff that someone made up 😂
Im a relative beginner to tuning RC car engines, and I think this video gets you close enough and thats what the point of the video is. To tune out the two stage idle here, the person tuning it needs to have a level of sensitivity to whats going on that can't be achieved straight away. The difference between correct and incorrect becomes turning the adjuster to within the thickness of the screwdriver blade.
When i started the hobby it was also not easy at first to get the right tune but after a few runs you get the gist of the mechanics.
That's right @richw0123 two stage idle means nothing that's important so it's not worth confusing begginers. The aim of the game is to get their car usable 😋
@@TheFPVEra that’s what I’m saying it’s super easy to do correctly only reason people get mad and say it doesn’t matter is if they can’t do it correctly 🤣
@@HaggardRC you sounded super hateful of even the use of stage idle sounds like you are still a beginner just from watching you incorrectly tune it
That air filter looks really dirty ???
That’s because it is, filthy would be more accurate 😂
How do I keep mine from moving while idling?
Turn the tick over down
The idler adjuster?
Did u do a video on the stuff I sent u
Yeah I have, that’s ready for this week! I edited it last night lol
@@HaggardRC ok just wondering ur last couple of clips were really good I was wondering if u had the original savage motor in ur truck cause it seems like I go through a motor in like six months the piston goes all the way through the sleeve when I push it and it doesn’t idle good and ur tuning all the time I don’t know if u had a opinion about it
Like if u had any reason y
@@jeremybenfer7627 My Savage engine lasted 16 years, I changed it for a K4.6 for fun but the original engine still runs fine 😂
@@HaggardRC yea that’s cool how did it last so long my compression seems to ware out fast idk if it’s just the t maxx 3.3 or it’s me doing something wrong
Do you still get 25% nitro? We only have the low 16% 😢
Yeah we can buy16, 20, 25 and 30% here.
@@HaggardRC then i have to come for a visit😅
Your idle gas is way to big that’s why the engine is reving when you come back and let off the throttle . The racing engine sound is the first stage . Then the drop is the second stage . These are facts . Google it lol . The reason for the Rpm drop is the super rich low speed and super big idle gap . Nice try tho !!!
As long as it work mate that’s all that matters. Never trust google, it’s run by fools lol.
It is two staging but who cares its good enought to have some fun rather than chase a tune perfection.
@@alanjones5343 That’s it and there’s no harm in two stage either it’s just a different style.
If it goas and smokes it will do for bashing.
@@alanjones5343 only a person who can’t tune good would say this 🤣
low speed needle too lean
Not again, I’ll give it a slap.