Hey man, That was an awesome video. It is nice to see another mechanic that does a thorough job. Clean, professional AND has the shop dog passed on the floor behind you. lol. Thanks for the demonstration, brother. I will be following and look forward to more videos.
I was pulling a drivers side axle shaft to replace a bad u joint and the inner axle seal pulled out with the axle shaft. So here we are getting ready to pull the carrier. Great video.
I had the exact same thing happen with my '01 F250. It was a fight getting that axle shaft guide and seal out of the tube with them stuck on the axle shaft. I'm taking my time and putting everything back together correctly in the hope that I'll never have to do this again.
I was going to give you hell for cutting out how you exactly seated the center section. As I was having trouble and just could not believe the pry bar hooked in the top of the housing would do it. Well..... it worked! Thank you!!! Tips for others having to use jackstands: I could not get it to budge out with a pry bar. I had to use a slide hammer, using the 2 jaw setup. Clamped to spider gear housing, to get it out. you'll need a helper to keep it from falling out.
Everything you're doing to that front-end, I need done to my truck, except for the inner seals and i have all the parts including all the steering components by Moog, all made in USA. Brother, I wish I didn't live so far from you my friend, lol, there are no mechanics near me that i would trust to do the quality work that you do Dre. I'm a little on the disabled side but I guess I'll manage to get it done a little at a time. Awesome work and I always enjoy your videos!!! 👍👍 Jay.
Thanks man, video plane and simple. My first rebuild w the Dana 50 had the hardest time with the ujoints. I was defeated ruining a new splicer and yoke🥴
Great video. Thank you. I did not know the inner seals were setup like that. One of mine is leaking badly, so you made my life easier just now without a doubt! Thank you!
@@AutomedicGarage Exactly. Not one. I double checked because it seemed unlikely. 🤷♂️ I've not had any problems with it at all, except the leaking seal, so I guess it's all good. Lol ✌
nice work. i've just had the passenger side inner seal replaced twice and immediately leaking again, wondering if the mechanic is over driving the seal or wth...
Im replacing my u joint on the pass side right now. There was a little bit of dampness in there, but nothing crazy. Im hoping that doesnt mean seal time.
There is a commonly available tool that interfaces with 1/2” drive extensions to drive that seal to the proper depth. It’s cheap and is worth having when you work on these trucks a lot.
I have a 97 f350 7.3. My axle tubes look dry but they do have a little rust and debris in them. Ideas on how to best clean them and maybe treat the rust
@@seitzwoodworking5102 only way I e ever cleaned the tubes is when the axles are pulled and I have the carrier removed. Use brake clean and large engine brushed to clean the tubes.
@@AutomedicGarage Thanks. I think I’m gonna make me a scraper tool from 36” all thread and a large washer to get in the tube and scrape out as much as I can and then attach an oil soaked paper towel or wrag to the rod to lubricate the tube. Probably not gonna change the inner tube axle seals now if I don’t have to although I’m changing everything else.
How do you replace that plastic ramp piece? My inner seal welded itself to the axel shaft and I didn’t realize till I pulled half shaft out. So it broke that plastic piece and brought it out as well. Thanks
@@AutomedicGarageWelpt. We got the front diff cover off, she’s bone dry looks like has been for a while. Spider gears are all chewed up, so one more thing to replace, when I start going back together how do I make sure my ring gear and pinion are where they should be? To prevent extra back lash?. Thanks
Yea I used my dial indicator just to double check it but all shims were placed back on their corresponding sides so no change was made. Good idea to check but not mandatory.
I’ve actually never had to replace one, I’m sure they are. Dana spicer is pretty good with their parts and finding them. Their quality is always top notch also.
Yes pinion shims are behind the pinion bearing, carrier shims sit right behind each carrier race. I didn’t remove the pinion therefore I obviously was not talking about pinion shims. Factory setups don’t always have carrier shims depending on the setup. I’ve torn several originals down with no shims. Figured a armchair mechanic would know this but maybe not.
What I would really like to see is the assembly of these axles going down the line and see how that works with how quick they set them up and get them right to go 300k with that quick of a setup.
Good video sir, We would like to know if you ever received any email from our team, we reached out to you via email for inquiring an opportunity of product review several times. But never heard back from you
I just found the email, not sure how I missed it. Thanks for reaching back out and I am very interested in the opportunity. I will contact you via email. Thanks
It’s nice seeing a mechanic that takes pride in his work. The reason I’m here is because I don’t trust them anymore.
Hey man,
That was an awesome video. It is nice to see another mechanic that does a thorough job. Clean, professional AND has the shop dog passed on the floor behind you. lol. Thanks for the demonstration, brother. I will be following and look forward to more videos.
I was pulling a drivers side axle shaft to replace a bad u joint and the inner axle seal pulled out with the axle shaft. So here we are getting ready to pull the carrier. Great video.
Thanks
I had the exact same thing happen with my '01 F250. It was a fight getting that axle shaft guide and seal out of the tube with them stuck on the axle shaft. I'm taking my time and putting everything back together correctly in the hope that I'll never have to do this again.
I was going to give you hell for cutting out how you exactly seated the center section. As I was having trouble and just could not believe the pry bar hooked in the top of the housing would do it.
Well..... it worked! Thank you!!!
Tips for others having to use jackstands:
I could not get it to budge out with a pry bar. I had to use a slide hammer, using the 2 jaw setup. Clamped to spider gear housing, to get it out. you'll need a helper to keep it from falling out.
great video, thanks! I’m rebuilding a 60 and your videos have been very helpful.
Good deal
Everything you're doing to that front-end, I need done to my truck, except for the inner seals and i have all the parts including all the steering components by Moog, all made in USA. Brother, I wish I didn't live so far from you my friend, lol, there are no mechanics near me that i would trust to do the quality work that you do Dre. I'm a little on the disabled side but I guess I'll manage to get it done a little at a time. Awesome work and I always enjoy your videos!!! 👍👍 Jay.
Thanks man, video plane and simple. My first rebuild w the Dana 50 had the hardest time with the ujoints. I was defeated ruining a new splicer and yoke🥴
Great video. Thank you. I did not know the inner seals were setup like that. One of mine is leaking badly, so you made my life easier just now without a doubt! Thank you!
Glad it helped. Not a fun job but it’s gotta get done.
@@AutomedicGarage Haha. Indeed. Thanks again!
@@AutomedicGarage Thanks again. I just removed my carrier and there were no shims whatsoever on mine either. Lol.
@@ben2687 not even 1 thick shim on either or both sides? Builder must have brought his A game that day.
@@AutomedicGarage Exactly. Not one. I double checked because it seemed unlikely. 🤷♂️ I've not had any problems with it at all, except the leaking seal, so I guess it's all good. Lol ✌
Really in depth video. Showed everything I needed to know. Thanks
@@craigford4374 good deal, thanks for watching
Big help! Going to do the same thing on my 2017 F-250 4WD, 6.7. Thanks!
nice work. i've just had the passenger side inner seal replaced twice and immediately leaking again, wondering if the mechanic is over driving the seal or wth...
Rule of thumb for youtube videos if the truck is on a lift never trust the guy when he says its a easy repair process
It can be done on jack stands just gonna be sitting on your ass and not in a roll chair.
Im replacing my u joint on the pass side right now. There was a little bit of dampness in there, but nothing crazy. Im hoping that doesnt mean seal time.
Was it gear oil of moisture from water
@@AutomedicGarage looks like gear oil. Not a lot. The shaft wasn't soaked. Potentially dripped off the shaft end as I pulled it out.
There is a commonly available tool that interfaces with 1/2” drive extensions to drive that seal to the proper depth. It’s cheap and is worth having when you work on these trucks a lot.
Yep, however I’ve never had an issue using my seal driver and making sure not to over drive it. Thanks though
Do you have a link for this tool?
good video, I forgot to ask to have the front diff lube changed when the front U-joints were replaced .... oh well, another day.
I have a 97 f350 7.3. My axle tubes look dry but they do have a little rust and debris in them. Ideas on how to best clean them and maybe treat the rust
@@seitzwoodworking5102 only way I e ever cleaned the tubes is when the axles are pulled and I have the carrier removed. Use brake clean and large engine brushed to clean the tubes.
@@AutomedicGarage Thanks. I think I’m gonna make me a scraper tool from 36” all thread and a large washer to get in the tube and scrape out as much as I can and then attach an oil soaked paper towel or wrag to the rod to lubricate the tube. Probably not gonna change the inner tube axle seals now if I don’t have to although I’m changing everything else.
How do you replace that plastic ramp piece? My inner seal welded itself to the axel shaft and I didn’t realize till I pulled half shaft out. So it broke that plastic piece and brought it out as well. Thanks
You can slide it all the way out of the tube. You can get a new one from Dana spicer and slide it back in.
@@AutomedicGaragealright thanks, turned into a bit more of a project that originally expected but happens thanks again
@@morganmeyers5921 sure thing bud. Holler if you need help
@@AutomedicGarage I mean if ya near upstate ish New York and wanna come help me rebuild this pile 🤣🤣🫡.
@@AutomedicGarageWelpt. We got the front diff cover off, she’s bone dry looks like has been for a while. Spider gears are all chewed up, so one more thing to replace, when I start going back together how do I make sure my ring gear and pinion are where they should be? To prevent extra back lash?. Thanks
Thank for the help
How do you make sure it goes in even? It keeps cocking over on one side
@@knarfweasel a few tappy taps with a rubber mallet usually does it
thanks for the video! Is that a rotty in the background taking it easy?
No he’s a sheprador. Lab/Shepard breed
Did you have to use any tool to check the backlash after reinstalling the diff?
Yea I used my dial indicator just to double check it but all shims were placed back on their corresponding sides so no change was made. Good idea to check but not mandatory.
Do you happen to know what the backlash readings are supposed to be? I'll be doing the same work on my truck.
@@KennethChaplin-c4r between .0010-.0012
Great video, only ask is do the next guy a favor and mark the case the same way you mark the caps.
Is that a racin pry bar?
Those plastic ramps, are those available and how much of a pita are they to replace?
I’ve actually never had to replace one, I’m sure they are. Dana spicer is pretty good with their parts and finding them. Their quality is always top notch also.
Are there more steps if it's a limited slip diff?
No
Axle seal part number?
What size is the driver you used to get the seal in?
It’s out of a seal driver set I have not sure of the size but harbor freight sells a decent set that’s similar looking to what I have.
How do you know how far to drive the seal?
There’s a lip. I referenced looking at the old one, it’s set right at the level of the small lip.
Thanks pimpin
Shims are behind the bearings on Dana axles. Figure a mechanic would know this lol
Yes pinion shims are behind the pinion bearing, carrier shims sit right behind each carrier race. I didn’t remove the pinion therefore I obviously was not talking about pinion shims. Factory setups don’t always have carrier shims depending on the setup. I’ve torn several originals down with no shims. Figured a armchair mechanic would know this but maybe not.
@@AutomedicGarage Dana axles have the shims under the carrier bearings. They were there you just did not know
@@RobertMiller-l7k there was no carrier shims in that axle.
No shims. FORD perfection 😂.
What I would really like to see is the assembly of these axles going down the line and see how that works with how quick they set them up and get them right to go 300k with that quick of a setup.
Good video sir, We would like to know if you ever received any email from our team, we reached out to you via email for inquiring an opportunity of product review several times. But never heard back from you
I just found the email, not sure how I missed it. Thanks for reaching back out and I am very interested in the opportunity. I will contact you via email. Thanks