THE HARDEST MOVE IN CLIMBING
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
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Edited and shot by Markus Skaane // @skaane
Improve your climbing using the campus board.
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Hardest move in climbing is actually warming up consistently.
And to fight the urge to climb hard (or at all) every single day. The mind wants to, but the body says - HELL NO! 😑
Agreed
Without a doubt
Jagknorr I just do
@@magmidt so that's why you just skip it as a whole? ;-)
12:55 "Its so nice when you walk from the kitchen to the kitchen"
damn our boy Magnus is living in a mansion nowadays
UA-cam cash must be FLOWING /s
That's a good..a fellow Climber is doing well just financially,and good thing is that the financial gain is from Climbing
Same idea but dumb bells and on the way to the toilet you do a bit.
@@namitadas631 Yeah, but the joke is that he's had a brain fart and meant something else, probably from 'living room to kitchen' and not that he has multiple kitchens at his mansion ;)
@@staszewaM so he has a mansion either way
This looks more like an art installation than a rock climbing wall.
Those are not mutually exclusive things
Training to climb Mt. Rushmore
@@siffoine 😂
I honestly think that some tipe of route setting could be considered art
Video Idea: Moonboard benchmarks or Kilterboard hard boulders. Maybe trying boulders from the moonboard masters competitions!
Seconded. Would love him smashing problems that I can fail at after.
Yess that would be so fun, because it's pure power
Yesss
Yes!
I support this idea!
Video idea: There was this kid at my climbing gym that would come in everyday and to warmup he'd climb around the whole gym without putting foot on the ground. Just free climbing every wall in one single horitonzal path. It was fun to watch because he would pass from the easiest flat walls to the 90° blocks. He knew the path so his movements were so smooth and calm but everyday the boulders would change so he had to adapt.
Traverse training. Not uncommon actually.
It is difficult to do it if the gym is full, I try to
Floor is lava training!
I do this after climbing, to traverse until exhaustion.
I usually do that as a warm up
15:23 Graphic content warning: Magnus loses chalk
Accurate AF
Shocked 😲 needs more grip strength for chalking up.
Honestly don’t know how someone can dislike a magnus midtbø video
Idea for a video: I've heard that famous norwegian writer Jo Nesbø is a 7c climber. But he must be very busy man though:)
He has set himself the quite ambitious goal to climb an 8a route (norw 9-) in two years time. Could be cool to see some collab training sessions to view the progress!
This sounds pretty cool
This sounds really cool, i loved his books when i was smaller
Jo nesboe is a climber? Really? I've read most of his books and didn't that fact about him^^. Cool think to know
Video idea: I would love to hear the back story about the project Thor's Hammer you bolted but then gave to Adam Ondra.
Video ideas: "Beta break" video where you go out of your way to find odd ways of tackling difficult boulders, clearly differently than the route setter intended.
Yes 👆👆
All ready a series on youtube named that exact thing. Really well done too!
I would definitely watch that
That intro sequence was *chef's kiss*, Magnus' videos have really come a long way
I always love your climbing videos. I feel like most of the people here would watch absolutely ANYTHING you posted, but the ones where we get to watch your technique and strength and talk about the process behind figuring out beta, those are sick.
so true!
12:57 Magnus must be really stepping up his nutrition game! He’s even gotten TWO kitchens !!
In reality, his experience helps him 'solve' most problems subconsciously --My bet is, Magnus just doesn't want to have to consciously think. ;) haha
Juji has several gyms and Magnus has multiple kitchens. That's why they get along so well.
You've been pumping these videos out Magnus. Youll hit 1 million for sure man, these are all quality!
You were right
“That was really on my limit”
Flashes it.
I'm about to start bouldering for the first time. I'm super excited for it. Just wanted to say thank you so much for being such an inspiration and showing this amazing sport to me and thousands of others!
Hows it going?
@@wire5246he realized that Magnus is a world class climber and it's hard to be as awesome as Magnus is
Another idea: Remote competition with other climbers. Imagine Magnus, Alex Megos, Chris Sharma, Jan Hojer and Adam Ondra each coming up with a challenge that each other has to do!
Or they set each other problems in the Moonboard. A mini Moonboard Masters episode.
Yes, the most exciting teams meeting ever.
Haven’t even watched it but I know it’s gonna be dope.
EDIT.....It was dope.
remember guys 1 5 9 with a match is easy
and Jan Hojer is like lol 1-9
I had to laugh so hard xD.........then I cried..
It’s is tho
Jan Hojer did it with 2 hands start, it's not the same, dude is also slenderman tall
@@dergoettenrieder Jan did a 1-9 on a board slightly smaller than the standard one.
hey Magnus, would be great to see you train with the objective of sending a hard project outdoors. you could talk us through your process of how you do it and document it
Yeah like a training series that has an end goal? Maybe some specific style of climbing like on pockets, pinches etc. So you can send outdoors on those types of holds
You honestly dont need any special "video ideas". We really enjoy watching you just climb and boulder. Love these videos! Keep it up!
I would like watching a video where you talk more about your past, I really enjoyed the video where u visited your first gym.
So happy about the comeback of the climbing and training videos !
6:04 this is not really true...it is called campus, because he invented it in a gym called "campus" in Germany. Greetings from the Frankenjura :)
Was that gym located at a campus and called campus because of that? If so, he was not wrong :)
@@libb3n no the gym is located in Nürnberg Germany and the original campus board is still hanging in the gym but it has nothing to do with the university located in Nürnberg
Super happy youve been able to post more often Magnus. Youre looking great too.
Just keep uploading videos of you climbing the new set!
Last couple of videos are THE best type of content. Thanks for that. :)
The name campusboard actually comes from a gym called campus, not an uni campus
Campusing is the act of climbing without feet isn't it? So did this gym just have a lot of overhang routes that you can muscle without using feet?
Edit: maybe campusing as climbing without feet was named after the campus board
@@janhetjoch Wolfgang Güllich invented the Campus board to train for Action Directe in this gym. (It was an otherwise regular gym as far as I know)
@@janhetjoch the campus is just a "regular" gym. They do physio therapy, rehab, stuff like that. Afaik the original campus board still stands there so I guess it's also a climbing museum lol
Although, the gym was called the Campus Centre because it was on the university campus. Either way neither of you are wrong :)
@@fritzbox6764 watch rotpunkt it explains everything Norbert sander invented the campus board and Wolfgang made it famous by doing his one finger work out on it
Just started using the campus board and this video drops. Magnus climbing/training vids just hit different
Vid idea : Strong sister - Episode two
Love that you're doing more climbing/bouldering videos these days.
It’s allways really fun to see you try Slab of the week. I’m loving the new intro
I like all videos, including the videos with this format. Videos where you fuck around and train in the gym and talk about what piques your thoughts. Just like this video. Specific things I loved are how you explained the campus boards, and not only provided a little historical context to the name, you gave us a personal story from your campus board origins. lol
Nice video I like the editing for the grades it stays in place even when the camera moves up 👌 As for video ideas honestly these are my favourite types of videos (you warming up on v6-v9 then trying really hard ones v10+ and of course your training regimes are really helpful)
These videos are really helping me to stay motivated for training, thank you Magnus!
Really love the format in which we can follow your progression in hard boulders as you find new solutions
Campus of the week please. Like an addition to slab of the week. Love the vids.
For video ideas I honestly just love watching videos like this where you're just climbing and explaining your thought process as you go.
Honestly don’t know how someone can dislike a magnus midtbø video
Me either, who else liked the video before the ad was even over
Absolutely! Such a genuinely nice, positive, modest person.
Earth's Gravity hates all his videos.
1.1k to 4 is insanely good. Probably accidents though.
4 dislikes... they must have IPhone 4 and missclicked.
Keep the climbing videos coming!
Hey Magnus! At the end of the year you should put up a compilation of the best boulders of the week and coolest climbs. I think it would be a good end of the year wrap up
So happy that your videos are REAL again. The good old training content is back...love it
I would love to see a video with some tips on how to get out of a rut where you don’t feel like you’re improving. I often feel like my fingers just need to get stronger for me to move up grades, but even with my current training my fingers often feel sore afterward and I don’t want to risk injury.
Oh man Magnus your last few videos have been amazing! I love this style of video so much
Slab of the Week is definitely one of my favorite parts of this channel
It would be nice to see Magnus create an original slab of the week. Then show how to do it in a next video and how many people where able to do it.
Really liked the cinematographic shots in the beginning
New intro kinda fire
it slaps unnecessarily
When your so early all the comments are about the intro
This one reminds me of your early vlogs, when Robin was your camera man. Nostalgic and cool!
Is that a moonboard in the background? I'd love to see a video on that. It would be cool to see how hard you think those boulders are for the grades.
Moonboard stuff is much harder than the same grade in the hall haha.
Just more climbing please. Love to learn some things and always try to transfer the movements to my skill
I don't know if she is in Oslo but I recently watched the videos with Cecilie Skog and I really enjoyed them, would be nice to see her again
I really like it when you explain the equipment in such detail.
The campus board is probably my favourite training tool. I'm also stuck at 1-5-8 so I feel your pain. Do you follow any specific campus workout or do you just go with the flow?
Keep grinding out these vids ! Awesome job! 👍🏻🤙🏻
I was watching the video where Marte was "remote controlling" you from one year ago and thought it would be fun to do it again now she has way more understanding of climbing, to show the difference.
Just keep doing this!! 🤘🤘🤘😁
Magnus thanks for the great content keep up the grind 🤘🏻
honestly i really like your simple climbing videos the most :O
I would graciously accept two of Magnus' left hands.
Outdoor bouldering seems like the way to go man, so many places. Also, collabs with other strong climbers at or above your level as a separate idea or in conjuction with the previous.
I find campus boarding addictive. So easy to get focused on achieving the next benchmark that I forget it's supposed to be training for climbing!
Cool video again. Motivates me to climb harder again. Interesting shots and nice editing as well.
Idk why people would dislike this video. Like first off magnus is entertaining and an amazing climber second off why would you click on a climbing video if u don't like climbing, and if u don't like the video and get board cus u don't like climbing wouldn't you just click off???
@@garrettkash lmao, a "average joe" that can do that many one arm pull ups and was a pro climber, yeah just an average joe. If hes a average joe what are we.
Wow he deleted his hate comments
this is my favorite video, I think I really enjoy the training info videos you post. I would love to see a video about how you would train for competitions today, specifically bouldering competitions. love the recent content :)
“Even 7b’s-7c’s are gonna be really hard”
Damn magnus didn’t need to flex that hard
Just keep climbing! I miss being able to climb so much and it is nice to just be able to see you doing it.
Is the campus training so you can do the yellow one you havent sent yet`?
@@garrettkash no need to be negative! Try spreading positivity instead.
@@garrettkash I'm sorry you had such a rough day/week/month/year. Treat yourself tomorrow with some selflove, relax and don't be so hard on yourself.
he is campus training so he can do the pink one in the corner
@@mtc7598 which one is that? Have I missed something? I Just know he hasnt sent the yellow one, which the crux move is a huge campus move
@@MrTarroT haha, its just a climbing meme. Explanation here: bestboulders.com/how-did-the-pink-one-in-the-corner-climbing-meme-get-started/
Honestly for video ideas I just enjoy watching you train and explain your training. It gives me ideas on things I should pay attention to at my own level.
Maybe a few food things? What kind of diet you stay on to fuel your sessions could be one. If you do calorie tracking I'm curious how much that is for you.
Maybe a video on things you do when you take rest days. Do you do active stretching to get your muscles back in shape? Do you just laze around?
You could also just post videos of you climbing in general. You could look at a boulder and explain what you are thinking out loud to the camera before you climb it. That way, as viewers we know the kinds of things that catch your eye when you plan a boulder you've never done.
I think the 1,5,9 is largely a matter of body length. Jan Hojer makes it look easy but, aside from exceptional conditioning, he's also really tall with a big wingspan.
I mean, he also can just go 1-9 lol
Love the intro shot as always, Norway at 1pm is so beautiful!
It would be interesting to see some outdoor project’s
I really enjoyed last few climbing videos. I feel like they had that vibe from your older videos, especially when its complemented with nice background music.
I'd love to see a video where you try to campus as many "easier" boulders as possible.
So many climbing videos recently ! Thank you so much Magnus, we're on lockdown in France and this is helping a lot :)
Maybe you could do a video with tips for intermediate climbers?
Amazing Power at the Campusboard ❗💪
Very small Cliffhanger 😯
Incredible grip strength
Hi, Video Idea: you could try to set a Boulder replicating an outside Boulder as good as possible. Maybe watching some old footage of yours. You could also make it an competition if you like.
I don’t know how realistic this idea is but I thought it would be so cool. (Love the Videos !!! Keep up the quality content 😁)...Lara
So many new videos lately! 😍 I hope you'll be able to still use the gym sometimes during this round of semi-lockdown.
the next video youtube picked for me had your sister in it. Havent seen on heard of her for quite some while. Is she still climbing?
I liked the beginning with the close-up view a lot
My brain: No, that's not possible, it must be click bait.
Magnus: Everything is possible with a bit chalk
You could show us several warm up / technique games like:
- fix holds for hands (or feet) and use feet (or hands) to rotate (decoupling limbs for beginners)
- climbing without a certain limb (forces more dynamic style)
- only allowed to use a hold after hovering 3 seconds (forces static style)
- place poker chips on holds and climb without dropping them (ninja foot placement)
- more
It would probably be nice to see the three of you just have fun with something like that :)
Jan hojer would like a word in regard to that title
Haha fr. 1-9 Anyone? Anyone? Going once. Going twice. Sold to Jan Hojer for doing the actual hardest move (on the campus board).
Jan Hoyers 1 - 9 is not on a standard campus board, but he pulls all the way down to his hip so on this campus board it would be equal to 1-6 or 1-7 ish on the smallest rungs (at least with magnus size)
Are you sure it's not a standard Campusboard?
Jan Hoyer is like 1,88m and has an apeindex of 18cm so in total a reach of 206cm as far as i know
@@TheAnthem88 I'm pretty sure the reason that his 1-9 was such a big deal, is because nobody else has been able to do it. Jan hojer is super tall, like crazy tall. So it makes sense that he would be able to reach so far.
I am a new climber and I would love to see a video on the best things a new climber can do to improve their skills! Love your videos, keep up the great work!
Do a Moonboard episode. It’s just lurking in the background :)
Hey Magnus, I'm bouldering for about 5 months now and every day I get new inspiration and motivation from your videos.
I have no idea if you have made videos like this or if you feel like it, how boring it will be for you, but as a newbie I would be interested in how to hold on to the different types and techniques of bouldering. I watch your videos and every time I think to myself: how is it possible to hold on etc.
stay healthy and greetings from germany
Okay Magnus, here are a few video ideas:
- Climbing in really warm clothes (ski suit maybe)
- only allowed to campus
- bouldering blindfolded
- reaction videos maybe, where you react to climbing accidents/memes or scenes from movies
- a food challenge, where you have to eat spicy or gross foods and then climb
- a bouldering games video, where you try different bouldering games. (like touching the next hold with your foot before you can grab it with your hand)
- climbing in slippery gloves
- maybe more tutorial videos and exercises (footwork, dyno, slabs, etc.)
(I know they are probably dumb ideas, but I wanted to help him out a bit, and maybe he can see them as an inspiration for other ideas)
Except for the tutorial one, all these ideas are so ridiculous and kind of useless. There are a lot of channels that do these "trendy-bait" simple content. I personally would be so disappointed to see that kind of stuff here... very much not fitting what Magnus usually offers on his channel.
+1 on the bouldering games!
@@PranovosBlogspot that's okay, I just wanted to make some suggestions whether they're good or not. Thanks for sharing your opinion though :)
Touching the next hold with foot before you can grab it sounds like some good training. Well done! I'm going to try this. Like many of the best ideas it's simple, once someone else has suggested it
Hey Magnus, id love to see a video on how you get back into shape following a break from climbing. With the whole Covid thing I’m sure a lot of people haven’t climbed in a bit or are maybe starting back up so it would be helpful to see how you ease back into things
"when you walk from the kitchen to the kitchen [...]" - Magnus has two kitchens, one for food, and one for his other food, also known as chalk!
Hahah
Really loving these climbing focused videos. Thanks for producing such great content!
"or you could do mono front lever..." Whatever no big deal 🤯
Hi Magnus,
You make great videos. Although probably not the most exciting thing to film relative to other things you've done, I would really be interested in a video where you go into details about how your approach injury prevention and rehab (perhaps you already have a video on this stuff, in which case I would be super appreciative if you reposted the link). Specifically:
1. What's your injury history (fingers, shoulder, etc.)?
2. When you are training heavily, how do you go about scheduling your training so that you don't get hurt? How do you know when you're doing too much or not enough? How do you make the decision about intensity/frequency for exercises where the intent is to slowly build up ligaments as opposed to muscular gains (hangs, campusing)?
3. When you are injured, what's your approach to rehabilitating what you injured (slow consistent rehab every day? how do you figure out when you can "go hard" again?)
One other question I have from this video: it seems like when you're campusing, you're almost doing a four-finger open hand grip since your index finger isn't really crimping--is this consciously done? If so, do you train this grip otherwise and have you found that helpful as an injury-prevention strategy?
Totally possible that you have had the luck of avoiding most injuries because of all the conditioning you've done over the course of your life and that such a video would not actually have a ton of content (especially relevant to an intermediate climber who is mostly struggling with the inability to train fingers too hard for fear of injury). If so, totally reasonable to ignore this request.
Thanks for all the great videos over the years!
I'd like to see Anton reacting at this campus moves 😁
I'm actually really enjoying these more "climbing oriented" videos keep it up!
Do you chisel grip for campus to avoid injuries?? I’m just noticing how straight you keep your index finger
loving these types of vids keep up the good work
I'd love to see some basic climbing techniques cuz I love to climb but feel like I don't grow my climbing capabilities anymore and I only use brute force
If you can come to the US, there's a lot of bouldering areas around the gunks in NY, philadelphia, west virginia's New River Gorge and Red River Gorge in Kentucky.
Just casually "mono frontlever"
oh you..
Just want to remind you again how amazing this gym is. Awesome Routesetting, with incredible variety of holds. Then highlights like slab of the week and campus boulder. In addition an awesome Chaos Wall, moonboard and every Hangboard you need. Seriously I wouldn’t know where to start training.
Receiving an alert from Magnus's channel : gonna be a good day