Mark, I've been thinking...if you skip dinner every day, we could be on at least episode 19 or 20 now. :) I'm really enjoying your build. Can't wait for more episodes!
I am developing a huge urge to build something. It’s been cedar strip canoes to this point from plans not kits, cabinets and benches. I bet I could, with your video help, do a Zenith 730. A buddy of mine is building a 750 cruiser from plans making each individual part. He’s a tad crazy but he, like you, is pretty amazing to boot. Thanks for the videos. Excellent.
Thanks for the comment Jay. I know some of the bolts have two washers and some don't. But I will go back and check to make sure this one doesn't require one under the bolt also. I did screw up once in 1982, so it could happen again! LOL HAHAHAHA that's my favorite joke!
You need to draw file a sharp edge. Sanding scratches and can introduce a crack point. I took aviation sheetmetal in high school. If you handed a piece of metal with a sharp edge to an instructor, they would chew you out, on a good day.
I was taught in "school" that blind rivets were used where you could not have access to the backside to buck the solid rivet, otherwise use the correct size solid rivet to fasten the parts together.
Do you think you should put thin plastic washers under those bolts and nuts if you are worried about corrosion as they will be some what dissimilar metals and will be the first place corrosion starts?
6:50 we call that joggling which needs to be part of the work instructions package. Then you know you have a won't work / won't fit part to the assy for the OEM to redline the drawing and perhaps roll the part number of the offending item. But it's not for us to decide what the offending items are. The OEM has no doubt done a FEM and certified at least internally, the load path and how the assy needs to fit together to flex properly under load as well. BTW, kinda surprised that breaking the edges is not part of the work instructions as well. But you definitely want your alodine or primer to smoothly cover the whole part. This is especially important for wet wings so that the seal is the same thickness everywhere.
When you used the manual rivet squeezer, did you have the riveter end that is tapered inward as the tip for the air squeezer is, or did you just use the 5/32 tip it came with your squeezer? Thanks for the videos.
If you buy the manual rivet squeezer from Zenith it comes with the A4 and A5 specialty tips. That reminds me-I broke mine and need to order a new one from Zenith!
@@KitplaneEnthusiast They might not sell the rivet squeezer to you. I just purchased the tips from them for the air gun. You cannot purchase the tips from them unless you have the aircraft number. As I am buying them to help the owner build I don't have the number. They went to some trouble looking for the number buy where the plane is and the owners name. Everything has to be connected to the plane being built per the order desk.
You are so very pernickety, but I mean that as a complement. If ever I was to buy a homebuilt aircraft, I'd want to buy one built by you. Amazingly careful work. You mentioned in another site that you had been in the airforce for 20 years, was that in an aircraft trade? Airframe fitter or similar? Thanks for the entertainment. I always look forward to the next stage.
The manual does not state that you can use solid rivets, but my understanding is that solid rivets are generally 'stronger' then pulled rivets. This would be a question for the engineers at Zenith.
No. I should have shown the pic that popped up on the screen longer. There's three layers, with one layer a tad longer than the one behind it. I may have to show it in another video-it's too difficult to explain by typing!
There is a spar cap doubler that is slightly wider than the spar cap itself. The rib flange is sliding slightly under the doubler, not the spar cap extrusion.
I’m curious as to how different the wing profiles are between your cruzer and the super duty. I am aware the cruzer does not have slats, just wondering if in addition the the slats, the SD has a more aggressive airfoil.
What are your thoughts on using an electric screwdriver instead of the swivel handle for deburring, especially when you have a lot to debur? Was thinking about this the other day. Those cheap electric screwdrivers are virtually useless for anything, but I'm willing to bet the low torque and speed make them pretty beastly deburring tools. You can just tape the switch on and let her rip. Just don't bear down on the hole and don't linger. I bet it would work like a charm.
No, but the standard is that the shop head (the part of the rivet that get squeezed or crushed, goes on the thicker material. It isn't always possible due to part of the structure being in the way, so sometimes they will go in the opposite way.
Mark, you have such an awesome hangar, and you are such an experienced builder, why don’t you have a compressor and use air drills? I am thinking it is to avoid air hoses but not certain. Just curious, great attention to detail, love your builds.
Hey Ty, thanks for the question. You are correct-the reason why is that lugging around the air hose is a hassle. There are also times when I like the variable speed of the electric drill. I have three different air drills and never use any of them!
Great video on your wing build. In addition to letting Zenith know when you find drill holes not to final size, are you also letting them know about the issue where you needed to tuck the rib lip under the spar top reinforcement piece so that they can add a note to the drawings, maybe letting future builders know to tuck that lip under it? Just curious. Also, given the size of your fuel tank bays, did you opt for extended range tanks so you get 2 per wing? Not sure if that is an option on the CH 750 SD or not. On the CH 801 SD kit they have an option for extended range tanks, where you get 2 per wing, so I was wondering if that was an option on yours? Are you adding the Nav light, Landing light options to your wings? Again, thank you very much for the video series.
I communicate with Zenith about little issues I come across. Something like the rib issue isn't even worth bothering them about. If I wasn't filming, it would have taken about 40 seconds or moving the rib around to see that it goes slightly under the spar angle. Maybe in the video I made it sound like a bigger deal than it actually was. When I ordered the kit, Roger did say that I could get additional tanks, but they haven't done any testing on them, or figured out how to plumb them yet. So I figured it's just not worth the added weight and complexity to get the extended tanks. I have 48 gallons in the stock tanks which gives me similar range and endurance as the many different types of Cubs that out flying the back country. If it works for them it should work for me. Regarding lights, yes I'm installing the lights in each slat. In fact all of my lights are due to arrive from AeroLEDs on Tuesday. I plan on doing an 'unboxing' video on the lights.
Curious question, as the parts are going to be riveted any way; why not prime the mating surfaces before test fit and if the test is good, then go straight to riveting? In my simple mind it would save tons of time otherwise you are essentially building the 750 twice. Just a curious question
That is certainly another way of doing it that would work just fine. For me, I just wanted to see how everything went together first. Also, there are a lot of holes that need match drilled and I'd rather prime after the parts are match drilled and deburred.
I've always wondered why Zenith doesn't continue the wing profile over the cockpit? Does the "dip" create stability over the fuselage to the tail feathers or what? just looks kind of odd to me, like the wings and fuselage are from 2 different aircraft. If that new pneumatic rivet gun doesn't show up soon, you're going to end up with a killer handshake!
Being familiar with the Zenith CH701 and the CH 750, I believe this design by Chris Heinz allows the pilot to be able to easily look over the wing root for better visibility in banked turns. I am sure Mark would know since he has already built the cruiser.
Is it critical? No. But if someone is too lazy to remove the stickers, what else are they not doing that they should be doing? Also, the labels are paper and I wonder if that paper will hold moisture, possibly creating a corrosion issue. I have no idea if that's valid or not, but I just think a builder should take the time to remove them.
UA-camrs have NO control on the number or type of ads. They might get a say on when they appear in the video (and even then with a lot of ifs and buts) but the rest is up to youtube. Expect a sharp drop in ads on all videos after a certain election period is over.
Awesome, as always. A tiny bit of criticism (and I genuinely hate myself for making it, because I'm watching this stuff like an addict): it might not be a good idea to release two videos a few hours apart, like you did with #9 and #10, because of the UA-cam algorithm. Going from friends' experiences in their channels, it seems like the second of the two videos only gets a fraction of the views of the first one. I really hope I'm wrong, but maybe it's something to keep in mind. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the comment. I though about that but figured this was a unique circumstance since Ep9 was just a quick video on primer, and Ep10 I've already had uploaded to UA-cam a week or so. But you just may be right-I suppose I could have waited a few more days to make Ep10 public.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast You're welcome. I agree on the circumstance and, well--looking at the numbers of views, it looks like I'm very wrong, the two videos are going hand-in-hand. Fingers crossed, I hope the rest of your stats (how many minutes people stay on for etc) show the same thing!
Mark, I've been thinking...if you skip dinner every day, we could be on at least episode 19 or 20 now. :) I'm really enjoying your build. Can't wait for more episodes!
Mark... great intro , didn't know that you were an ambidextrous dyslexic ! Good video , great tips! Thanks... Blue Skies!
Excellent attention to detail
I like your attention to detail 👍
I'm really enjoying the progress on your Super Duty! just binge watched all 10.
I am developing a huge urge to build something. It’s been cedar strip canoes to this point from plans not kits, cabinets and benches. I bet I could, with your video help, do a Zenith 730. A buddy of mine is building a 750 cruiser from plans making each individual part. He’s a tad crazy but he, like you, is pretty amazing to boot. Thanks for the videos. Excellent.
Should add a washer to front and back of the bolt. Love watching the videos!
Thanks for the comment Jay. I know some of the bolts have two washers and some don't. But I will go back and check to make sure this one doesn't require one under the bolt also. I did screw up once in 1982, so it could happen again! LOL HAHAHAHA that's my favorite joke!
Kinda like " thought I made a mistake once , turned out that I was mistaken " .
You've got skills!
It's coming together beautifully!!!!
Looking really good Mark.
Thank you!
Mark, just an idea to use thin sticky velcro instead of shop towel on your hand riviter.
Ivan Kondaurov Hey that’s a great idea-thanks!!
Looks pretty easy to build the 750
and FUN!
@@KitplaneEnthusiast yes I think I'll treat myself to a 701 kit after 40 yrs of building houses
You need to draw file a sharp edge. Sanding scratches and can introduce a crack point. I took aviation sheetmetal in high school. If you handed a piece of metal with a sharp edge to an instructor, they would chew you out, on a good day.
That’s why none of my edges are sharp. Sand paper works perfect for smoothing edges and leaves a perfectly smooth edge.
I was taught in "school" that blind rivets were used where you could not have access to the backside to buck the solid rivet, otherwise use the correct size solid rivet to fasten the parts together.
Do you think you should put thin plastic washers under those bolts and nuts if you are worried about corrosion as they will be some what dissimilar metals and will be the first place corrosion starts?
6:50 we call that joggling which needs to be part of the work instructions package. Then you know you have a won't work / won't fit part to the assy for the OEM to redline the drawing and perhaps roll the part number of the offending item. But it's not for us to decide what the offending items are. The OEM has no doubt done a FEM and certified at least internally, the load path and how the assy needs to fit together to flex properly under load as well. BTW, kinda surprised that breaking the edges is not part of the work instructions as well. But you definitely want your alodine or primer to smoothly cover the whole part. This is especially important for wet wings so that the seal is the same thickness everywhere.
If a surface isn't prepper correctly paint at a 90° edge won't chip, it will and peel in chunks
When you used the manual rivet squeezer, did you have the riveter end that is tapered inward as the tip for the air squeezer is, or did you just use the 5/32 tip it came with your squeezer? Thanks for the videos.
If you buy the manual rivet squeezer from Zenith it comes with the A4 and A5 specialty tips. That reminds me-I broke mine and need to order a new one from Zenith!
@@KitplaneEnthusiast They might not sell the rivet squeezer to you. I just purchased the tips from them for the air gun. You cannot purchase the tips from them unless you have the aircraft number. As I am buying them to help the owner build I don't have the number. They went to some trouble looking for the number buy where the plane is and the owners name. Everything has to be connected to the plane being built per the order desk.
You are so very pernickety, but I mean that as a complement. If ever I was to buy a homebuilt aircraft, I'd want to buy one built by you. Amazingly careful work. You mentioned in another site that you had been in the airforce for 20 years, was that in an aircraft trade? Airframe fitter or similar? Thanks for the entertainment. I always look forward to the next stage.
Does the manual allow you to substitute solid rivets for the pop-rivets certain places?
The manual does not state that you can use solid rivets, but my understanding is that solid rivets are generally 'stronger' then pulled rivets. This would be a question for the engineers at Zenith.
thank you!
What rattle can primer are you using?
WHY is there gap between the cap and the spar? Is it the thickness of the corrosion layer creating that space?
No. I should have shown the pic that popped up on the screen longer. There's three layers, with one layer a tad longer than the one behind it. I may have to show it in another video-it's too difficult to explain by typing!
There is a spar cap doubler that is slightly wider than the spar cap itself. The rib flange is sliding slightly under the doubler, not the spar cap extrusion.
I’m curious as to how different the wing profiles are between your cruzer and the super duty. I am aware the cruzer does not have slats, just wondering if in addition the the slats, the SD has a more aggressive airfoil.
Yes it appears to me that the airfoil is different. Also the SD wings are a lot longer.
What are your thoughts on using an electric screwdriver instead of the swivel handle for deburring, especially when you have a lot to debur? Was thinking about this the other day. Those cheap electric screwdrivers are virtually useless for anything, but I'm willing to bet the low torque and speed make them pretty beastly deburring tools. You can just tape the switch on and let her rip. Just don't bear down on the hole and don't linger. I bet it would work like a charm.
Do the instructions tell you the direction of the rivet ??
No, but the standard is that the shop head (the part of the rivet that get squeezed or crushed, goes on the thicker material. It isn't always possible due to part of the structure being in the way, so sometimes they will go in the opposite way.
Mark, you have such an awesome hangar, and you are such an experienced builder, why don’t you have a compressor and use air drills? I am thinking it is to avoid air hoses but not certain. Just curious, great attention to detail, love your builds.
Hey Ty, thanks for the question. You are correct-the reason why is that lugging around the air hose is a hassle. There are also times when I like the variable speed of the electric drill. I have three different air drills and never use any of them!
Great video on your wing build. In addition to letting Zenith know when you find drill holes not to final size, are you also letting them know about the issue where you needed to tuck the rib lip under the spar top reinforcement piece so that they can add a note to the drawings, maybe letting future builders know to tuck that lip under it? Just curious. Also, given the size of your fuel tank bays, did you opt for extended range tanks so you get 2 per wing? Not sure if that is an option on the CH 750 SD or not. On the CH 801 SD kit they have an option for extended range tanks, where you get 2 per wing, so I was wondering if that was an option on yours? Are you adding the Nav light, Landing light options to your wings? Again, thank you very much for the video series.
I communicate with Zenith about little issues I come across. Something like the rib issue isn't even worth bothering them about. If I wasn't filming, it would have taken about 40 seconds or moving the rib around to see that it goes slightly under the spar angle. Maybe in the video I made it sound like a bigger deal than it actually was. When I ordered the kit, Roger did say that I could get additional tanks, but they haven't done any testing on them, or figured out how to plumb them yet. So I figured it's just not worth the added weight and complexity to get the extended tanks. I have 48 gallons in the stock tanks which gives me similar range and endurance as the many different types of Cubs that out flying the back country. If it works for them it should work for me. Regarding lights, yes I'm installing the lights in each slat. In fact all of my lights are due to arrive from AeroLEDs on Tuesday. I plan on doing an 'unboxing' video on the lights.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Look forward to whaching it!
show.... nice...
Curious question, as the parts are going to be riveted any way; why not prime the mating surfaces before test fit and if the test is good, then go straight to riveting?
In my simple mind it would save tons of time otherwise you are essentially building the 750 twice.
Just a curious question
That is certainly another way of doing it that would work just fine. For me, I just wanted to see how everything went together first. Also, there are a lot of holes that need match drilled and I'd rather prime after the parts are match drilled and deburred.
Makes sense.
I've always wondered why Zenith doesn't continue the wing profile over the cockpit? Does the "dip" create stability over the fuselage to the tail feathers or what? just looks kind of odd to me, like the wings and fuselage are from 2 different aircraft.
If that new pneumatic rivet gun doesn't show up soon, you're going to end up with a killer handshake!
Being familiar with the Zenith CH701 and the CH 750, I believe this design by Chris Heinz allows the pilot to be able to easily look over the wing root for better visibility in banked turns. I am sure Mark would know since he has already built the cruiser.
L
Is it critical to remove the labels from interior no-prime,no-paint parts? Is there a reason they can't be left on?
Is it critical? No. But if someone is too lazy to remove the stickers, what else are they not doing that they should be doing? Also, the labels are paper and I wonder if that paper will hold moisture, possibly creating a corrosion issue. I have no idea if that's valid or not, but I just think a builder should take the time to remove them.
"I wonder if that paper will hold moisture, possibly creating a corrosion issue"
I think that's a valid concern. Hadn't thought about it.
Nothing better than goo-gone for removing stickers.
Loving the build series, just one comment, there are too many ads.
Glad you enjoy the videos, but I have no control over the ads.
UA-camrs have NO control on the number or type of ads. They might get a say on when they appear in the video (and even then with a lot of ifs and buts) but the rest is up to youtube. Expect a sharp drop in ads on all videos after a certain election period is over.
Just pay for UA-cam. Then NO ads. It’s great. I just hope he gets paid the same.
Awesome, as always.
A tiny bit of criticism (and I genuinely hate myself for making it, because I'm watching this stuff like an addict): it might not be a good idea to release two videos a few hours apart, like you did with #9 and #10, because of the UA-cam algorithm. Going from friends' experiences in their channels, it seems like the second of the two videos only gets a fraction of the views of the first one. I really hope I'm wrong, but maybe it's something to keep in mind. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the comment. I though about that but figured this was a unique circumstance since Ep9 was just a quick video on primer, and Ep10 I've already had uploaded to UA-cam a week or so. But you just may be right-I suppose I could have waited a few more days to make Ep10 public.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast You're welcome. I agree on the circumstance and, well--looking at the numbers of views, it looks like I'm very wrong, the two videos are going hand-in-hand. Fingers crossed, I hope the rest of your stats (how many minutes people stay on for etc) show the same thing!
UL turbo 520 sounds about right for your SD?
Yes that engine would work in the SD.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast well I know it Would work.....I’m trying to get you to spill the beans on if it is the one. :)
It's not so complicated women used to put these things together in the forties and fifties all those warfighters