Riveting the Wing Skins on the Zenith Super Duty (Ep13)
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- I show you a very slight mod I did to the lower wing skin to fit the forward strut attach bracket, and then it's finally time to rivet the bottom wing skins to the frame! I'm having a great time building the Zenith CH-750 Super Duty! What are you building??
As always, please SUBSCRIBE, share the video on Facebook, and give it a thumbs up!
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#STOL #ch750 #zenithaircraft #kitplaneenthusiast - Авто та транспорт
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Your videos are much appreciated, Mark! You do an exceptional job of cutting to the chase, and anticipating questions. You're also helping us disabled guys build vicariously through you; I look forward to each new episode. Again, many thanks and good day.
Wow your attention to detail both of your work and your explanations are commendable Mark. Fantastic series thus far. Keep up the great work!
Such a beautiful wing when you flip it over and we can see the spar and ribs. Makes me want to build one. It's hard to believe that an airplane as ugly as the zenith looks that good on the inside. You can't judge a book by it's cover.
Your comments during the build is equally important to the followers as watching the clip. I learn a lot from them.
Wings are coming along great, nice to see you sharing good building tips about the jury strut brackets and installing nut plates the proper way, good tips that some may overlook when building. using them as you are is the nicest , cleanest and best way . Well back to building, that wing is 14 feet long and that means one thing, countless rivets, Great Job.
This series is gold for us guys planning on building a SD.
(FYI, Im going the Viking 195hp with the 5 blade DUC route)
Thank you !!
Are we (all) Dreamers or Doers ?
Nice work. And of course commenting also helps that youtube magic, so that's what I'm doing now. Seriously, I'm intrigued now about how lights are mounted on the slats, I haven't noticed that before in Zenith aircraft...
Thanks for sharing. Looking great!
That new rivet gun probably shaved hours off your build time.
When you mentioned wiring in the wing it got me thinking about what wires one might need to run prior to buttoning up the wing. A +5 volt power wire for a GoPro (etc.) camera would eliminate battery life issues if you plan to put one on the wing(s). Hmmm, another option to get +5 volts out there could be to add a 5-volt voltage regulator (like a 7805, or a buck regulator) to the wire for the wing tip navigation lights since it's running out there anyway. Save weight and wiring. Turning on the nav lights would also power the GoPro.
Love watching this process. You are an excellent instructor.
Kudos and awards and encomia to You for cogent, well-reasoned videos/audio wonderfully lacking the Intrusive repetitive metronome-like repetitive obnoxious pseudo-music appearing and featured in most other Aviation vids. Your channel and AV Web are both first rate.
Another great video. You're build sure is looking good. I feel the sense of excitement you have as you get closer to the end of the project.
The tool in the die grinder is called a carbide burr, or rotary file.
Another excellent video. I was so wishing for a video series like this. Love this channel.
Awesome thanks!
Thanks again Mark , much appreciated! Catch you on the next one.... Blue Skies brotherman!
Love your videos! Your explanations are very easy to understand. My only criticism is the music in some parts of the videos. 😄 God bless you. Keep up the good work.
You are doing great job and I have learned so much from you. As always great video.
This episode was riveting!!
If you could, would you take a few still pics of the cable routing and also pitot routing and mounting for the next video. that way can see how it was all routed in both wings including the pitot tubing.
Great videos really enjoying watching them
I like your attention to detail such as the extra sanding and de burring
Ep15 will show the wire routing.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Cheers, looking forward to it and thanks for taking so much time out to create the videos and still answer questions..
Safe Flying
Zenith ought to pay you for this.
Zenith is very supportive of my (and many others) channels. I'm super happy with my kit and this entire airplane so I'm happy to spread the cheer and hopefully help other builders along the way. I just can't wait to FLY this beast!
That bolt detail is something Zenith should see. Seems like that could be changed on there computer for cutting.
Mark you should use a piece of rubber in the top of the drill bit against the mandril to avoid hitting the aluminium skin whit the mandril. The factory recomend that , Although I have to tell you I made many little scratchs before that.....My Next plane will be better !!
Yes if you feel you need the rubber on the drill bit, there's nothing wrong with adding it.
At about the 6:30 mark, you mentioned putting the part number for the flush rivets in the description box. I didn't see anything there about them, could you please tell me which rivets you used for those nut plates? I am planning to follow your lead here on my 750 STOL. Thanks Mark!
Another Awesome video! Only problem is, they are not long enough! Ha Ha.
Some people like longer videos, some like shorter ones. I try to keep them around 15 minutes.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast I would watch longer videos too.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Understood. I could watch you in your shop all day long. Makes me want to bring my clecos over and help!!!
Great video! Can you write part # of that nutplates, bolts and rivets? I'm going to install the same covers soon=) Thank you!
AN426AD-3-3.5
Thanks! I forgot to add that to the description box!
While doing nutplates on the RV, a lot of us started using the NAS “oops” rivets instead of dimpling the skins and the nutplates. The NAS “oops” rivets have a -3 rivet diameter, but a -2 rivet head, basically a very small head that fits into a #40 hole with just a little deburring. It really is a time saver, and looks great.
Should have used a doubler, and counter sunk the rivets for the nut plate. Instead of dimpling.
So he forgot to put in the type of rivet for the nut plates. What you need are AN426AD3-3 rivet. You can get them from Aircraft Spruce or Univair.
Thanks for the video! Just wondering what rivet squeezer you’re using, is it a set with the dies? I’m going to do the same access panels for my SD but don’t have a squeezer yet.
Hi mark, can you share a link for buying the type of nut plate, rivet type and size, and screws, will help me a lot, thanks
Will your plane have a parachute?
No.
When you put primer on is that a anti corrosion spray. IF it is what brand do you use? Thanks. Jim
Would it have been easier (or possibly the same) to have bolted the bracket to the angle that attaches to the spar (before its attached to the spar), then riveted and bolted that to the spar after putting the bottom skins on. You might not have need the extra cut-out on the skin that way. Just a suggestion. Either way, once that bracket is on and the skins are riveted, you ain't getting to it again! Saying that, it doesn't look like that last bolt is actuall under the surface of the skin. Wonder why Zenith didn't make the cut-out big enough to take the bolt. I guess there are a few things to report back to them to improve the kit.
Hi Simon, The angle part that is attached to the spar is pre-built and attached to the spar at the factory. I'd have to go look again but yes I believe the bolt is slightly below the skin. I wouldn't say that the extra little grinding I did was 100% necessary because instead of using a socket on the bolt, one could probably slip an open end wrench under the skin to hold the bolt. Remember, this is just how I decided to do it and there are many ways to do things. Plus, I just like putting my own little personal touches on things! And you are correct that once the skins are riveted, there is no access to the bolts. I know a few people who have added inspection holes there, but personally I don't see a need for it.
What size nut plates are you using for this access cover? Also, is the aluminum scrap you are using for cover the same thickness metal as the skins? THanks in advance
The nut plates are 6-32. Not sure about the thickness of the covers. I used what I had laying around. I think it's a little thicker than the skin.
Mark, just wondering if there would be any benefit to "Radiusing" the Strut attach brackets, they are pretty squared off right now. (smoothness, possible cracking ETC.)
Yes, already did sand the edges to take the sharp 90 degree angle off. Just keep in mind-it's impossible to show you absolutely everything I do during this build. So each builder needs to think, and build as he or she feels is best. I try to cover the majority of the build, but sometimes I don't show the little details.
@1:13 that is called a Burr
Mark, Is it necessary to install nut plates in All the holes around this hatch? Could you use a strip of 1/8"x 3/4" Aluminum Tapped for the same size screws (8/32) riveted to 2 holes on each side?
Would that work? Technically yes it probably would, but that's just not how aircraft are built. Nutplates are the proper way to do it.
I was wondering Mark, do you put a filler in the heads of the pop rivets to keep the water out when you wash the plane.
No I don't. Water won't get through the rivet; especially after it's painted.
Just curious and coming from a guy that hasn’t riveted before, could you have put that one rivet at the strut attachment point in from the bottom(reverse)?
Technically yes you could, but it would look terrible since you'd have the big fat ugly end of the rivet on the outside of the plane.
How about the fuel tank installation
Yessir it's coming on EP15!
If you don’t pinch a flush rivet enough the first time, can you press it a second time?
Are you talking about the solid rivets that get squeezed or bucked? If so, yes, you can just squeeze more. If it isn’t set in the hole square and flush, than no extra squeezing will fix it, you need to drill it and replace it.
is this build from scratch or a kit?
This is a CH-750 Super Duty kit from Zenith Aircraft.
why not bend the edges of the excess cover? To make it more seamless...
Are you referring to the access cover? If so, there's no need as it sits perfectly flush on the wing. You will see in Ep15 (or maybe 16) that I do bend the edges on the top leading edge skins with a special tool.
rasp