MK7 GOLF GTI R S3 BRAKE + CLUTCH FLUID DIY - IMPORTANT YET OFTEN OVERLOOKED

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  • Опубліковано 3 сер 2024
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    Amazon link to Sealey Brake and Clutch bleeder;
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    This video can be divided into the following sections
    0:00 Intro teaser
    0:06 Graphics by @haslerdesigns
    0:11 What this video is about
    1:15 Tools and parts required
    4:45 Preparation before starting work
    6:00 Connecting bleeder
    8:31 Bleeding a front caliper
    12:24 Checking bleeder pressure
    12:50 Bleeding a rear caliper
    14:33 Bleeding clutch slave cylinder
    17:54 Disconnecting bleeder
    20:42 Test drive
    22:32 Sign off and graphics from @haslerdesigns
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КОМЕНТАРІ • 71

  • @stco2426
    @stco2426 2 місяці тому

    Excellent. Many thanks for this. Am about to do a brake bleed on a mk7 GTD after having to fit a new rear caliper. Ah the joys of the EPB!!
    Agree that the Haynes manual says to use the bleed sequence as you have it here. This is a bit odd / novel as I’ve tended to do the brake furthest from the master first, which is a common approach, but I’ll do this new sequence. Agree with the tools and sympathetic approach to the process however, I’ve just got a vacuum bleeder, which I hope will be useful for all sorts of suction jobs. These are not perfect but might have a few more general uses than the pressure system, but I know these are pretty good as you show.
    I think my rear brakes are the same as you have here and it can be hard to access the nipple.
    The Haynes manual also recommends bleeding the clutch when doing the brakes and again the details are scant. Great to see the technique (bleed, pump bleed) you used here. Very many thanks!!
    Is the VCDS ‘brake bleed’ setting only necessary if the master cylinder or ABS module have been drained, do you know?

  • @fatwalletboy2
    @fatwalletboy2 Рік тому +4

    I would add 2 things;
    1. Always wash your hands before entering the car for the test drive.....you dont want fluid anywhere on the leather touch points or plastics. Or use disposable nitrile gloves.
    2. Wear eye protection when you undo the nipples as the fluid could spurt out under the pressure.
    Did the pedal feel any better after after the fluid change? The old stuff did look bad.
    Also I take it all the valves are open in the ABS unit for a full fluid clean out??
    £3 for those bolt caps is an absolute bargain but wheres the link?

    • @MauriceNL1
      @MauriceNL1 Рік тому +1

      On my A3 8V the fluid was a little bit darker and the pedal feel has gotten a bit better after changing it to DOT5.1

  • @MonkeyKong21
    @MonkeyKong21 3 місяці тому

    glad somebody told me that my clutch pedal also uses the brake fluid. I would've guessed it pulled a steel cable

  • @JamesGadbury
    @JamesGadbury Рік тому +6

    Thanks for the thorough walkthrough. Good stuff, will help loads of people 👍

    • @volkswizard
      @volkswizard  Рік тому +1

      Thanks James, helping other is what it is all about 👍🏻

  • @conradorodriguez9498
    @conradorodriguez9498 4 місяці тому

    Perfect man! Saved me 35 dollars!

  • @colinboyle7955
    @colinboyle7955 5 місяців тому +1

    Good explaining everything I love it. Where do you get that print out of instructions to bleed the brake and clutch fluid?

  • @Sverigebilden
    @Sverigebilden 11 місяців тому

    Nice video, is the procedur the same on a left hand drive? Front left, front right ,left back and right back?

  • @Deceptive24
    @Deceptive24 10 місяців тому

    Legend. Such a clean presentation.

  • @jpgpearson
    @jpgpearson Рік тому +2

    i use my oil suction kit....which i use for the sump.....first suck old brake fluid out of the reservoir...put fresh brake fluid in.....move your oil suction kit to the nipple and then suck out old fluid until it changes colour making sure you top up the reservoir.

  • @964tractorboy
    @964tractorboy Рік тому +1

    A job well done. It's easy to see why DIYers aren't too enthused by the task, but there's no excuse for a dealer-maintained car to miss out on such basic work. Hope the track-day goes well!

  • @Peterv832
    @Peterv832 8 місяців тому

    Sorry to ask. I am unclear if I should remove the pressure bleeder when doing the clutch fluid? I recently did the brakes. But need to go back to do the clutch and not sure if i should connect the pressure bleeder.
    Thank you

  • @pequod1
    @pequod1 Рік тому +3

    I'd consider DOT5.1 as something between OEM and a 'track' fluid a la RBF600, it's ridiculously cheap at GSF now too.

  • @malchowle5618
    @malchowle5618 Рік тому +3

    Bleeding brilliant.. Thank you 👍

  • @thecomanche1
    @thecomanche1 7 місяців тому

    It says in my VW workshop manual that the bleed sequence must be performed 5 times per calliper. Only if air is in the system though.

  • @davidchambers7622
    @davidchambers7622 Рік тому +1

    Really enjoyed this Video Andrew, 8 years ago my Porsche dealer quoted me £180, a specialist £90, however I can see the labour involved in this process thanks for sharing 👍

    • @volkswizard
      @volkswizard  Рік тому

      Thanks David. I am sure some workshops don't do as thorough a job (some don't even do it at all even though they say there have as it's not easy to tell). Some I gather don't take wheels off and do it on ramp, so either they have a better drain hose than me that doesn't drip or they pour a lot of water or they damage paint on inside of wheel :(

  • @jwester7009
    @jwester7009 Рік тому +3

    Why are you only bleeding it on one side on the car? Maybe I'm doing it wrong but I always start bleeding the brakes at the wheel furthest away from the brake pedal and I do it on all four corners until I see new clean brake fluid coming out. During the process I keep adding new brake fluid to the reservoir. This process is to make sure all the old fluid is out of the entire system along with water that has been condensing into the system over time

    • @mda5003
      @mda5003 Рік тому +3

      Indeed, most will say to do just that - furthest away first. But, according to the manual for my VW it says left-hand front first then right-hand front followed similarly with the rears. I've no idea why.

    • @michael6125
      @michael6125 Рік тому +1

      He’s only showing us from one side of the car maybe for time convenience as it’s the exact same process for the opposite side on that axle. However he does include a caption stating that the side he’s showing us is after the other side opposite. Also to add he is following the actual manufacturers guide on how to bleed the system so he’s doing exactly what the manufacturers instructed us

  • @simonvazquez6751
    @simonvazquez6751 Рік тому +1

    Great watch, really detailed 👍. Pertinent for me as I recently had the brakes on my 7.5 GTi bled at Inchcape VW Manchester; They came back feeling spongy and soft. I took it back, they cast an eye over it "fine to us" however still not right. Must buy this bleed kit and do a proper job myself 💪

    • @volkswizard
      @volkswizard  Рік тому +1

      Sorry to hear main dealers couldn't do this basic job right. On plus side at least your nipples will be loose :)

  • @Jon-mo9ks
    @Jon-mo9ks 7 місяців тому

    If you're only bleeding the clutch, does it matter which wheel you extract from?

  • @papillon5537
    @papillon5537 Рік тому

    Mk7 share same brake and clutch fluid? Has to replace them separate way?

  • @rohrbaughfab
    @rohrbaughfab Рік тому

    I wonder if since my brake fluid is so dirty it would cause the master cylinder to freak out for the clutch

  • @michael6125
    @michael6125 Рік тому +3

    Was it me who missed the process of filling the brake system with the new fluid?

    • @iansaxton8684
      @iansaxton8684 Рік тому +3

      Nope, I was just going to state exactly the same?

    • @volkswizard
      @volkswizard  Рік тому +4

      The new fluid is in the pressure bleeder, it’s what pushes the old fluid out

    • @michael6125
      @michael6125 Рік тому

      @@volkswizard Thank you for this. Just that explanation has taught me something new. Didn’t know it was the new fluid that pushes out the old. Thank you

  • @eamol
    @eamol Рік тому +1

    Good video but I would add one major thing and it's nothing to do with the actual brake fluid change.....Screwing on wheel studs/ bolts with a power tool is the surest way to destroy the threads instantly...

    • @DrFod
      @DrFod Рік тому +1

      Nothing wrong with that as long as you use a low torque setting and finish tightening with a torque wrench.

    • @eamol
      @eamol Рік тому

      @@DrFod Everything wrong with it as no one uses a low torque setting to begin with....

    • @volkswizard
      @volkswizard  Рік тому +2

      I do as my gun is really old and it doesn't have that much torque, I only use it to thread the bolts into hub to save time, and then I use torque wrench which always needs to tighten them a bit. TBH I used to tighten then way too much before I had an impact gun and a torque wrench like most DIYers probably do as 120nm is not all that much

  • @ivanb3303
    @ivanb3303 Рік тому +1

    Very enjoyable and when you reach 50K I trust 75k and beyond is in reach

  • @NoName-st6zc
    @NoName-st6zc Рік тому

    I know those racingline wheels are just your trackwheels and everything but holy crap do these look sheit compared to the pretorias. Just my two cents of course...
    Apart from that : super useful video explaining something that's done way too rarely on a lot of performance cars where this should be done yearly really.
    You're absolutely smashing it with your content lately. Keep it up mate!

  • @tonyp741
    @tonyp741 Рік тому

    Excellent video and really informative. I may have to get myself one of those bleeders.

  • @chrisp4899
    @chrisp4899 Рік тому

    Definitely needed it , have you ever used lanoguard to protect the underbody I'm thinking of doing the rear axle on my polo

    • @volkswizard
      @volkswizard  Рік тому

      I'll be using the Bilt Hamber protectant now the weather has warmed up

  • @wilstw
    @wilstw 2 місяці тому

    if you have EPB electronic parking brake..should the EPB be switched off for the bleeding oil at rear brakes

    • @volkswizard
      @volkswizard  2 місяці тому +2

      I think they bleed ok either way as epb is electric, not hydraulic

    • @stco2426
      @stco2426 2 місяці тому

      @@volkswizard Thanks.

  • @robc5955
    @robc5955 Рік тому

    Thanks good reminder, did I see/hear you say do passenger side first then driver? Also, stupid question I guess but if you have either wet or dry clutch dsg there is no brake fluid operated clutch slave? Thanks

    • @volkswizard
      @volkswizard  Рік тому +2

      The order is definitely as follows;
      front left
      front right
      rear left
      rear right
      Left or right is as if looking from sat inside the car
      The video shows front right just because it suited me for filming
      So start on passenger side front for RHD cars
      Not a stupid question re clutch as DSG has 2 clutches but none use brake fluid.
      HTH

    • @robc5955
      @robc5955 Рік тому

      @@volkswizard thankyou

  • @jaketaylor5470
    @jaketaylor5470 Рік тому

    Imagine the amount of chips on that mint front bumper after 1 track day let alone of a lorry on motorway! Scary

    • @volkswizard
      @volkswizard  Рік тому +1

      The front end is PPF protected, I've done loads of track days and never got a chip even without PPF. Stonechips are annoying but cars are for driving so you just deal with them when they get bad enough

    • @jaketaylor5470
      @jaketaylor5470 Рік тому

      ​@@volkswizard i have been watching your videos for along time.... fair play buy it and use it for its purpose 👌

  • @kentowers2802
    @kentowers2802 Рік тому

    Andrew Have you tried removing the clutch slave delay valve / dampener? It’s a really good little mod to do while bleeding the clutch

    • @volkswizard
      @volkswizard  Рік тому

      I haven't removed that yet Ken but having now driven it on track, assuming no side effects, it's got to go as it's awful. Remember it from my first CSS, weirdly my Cupra didn't have it so must have been removed.

    • @kentowers2802
      @kentowers2802 Рік тому

      @@volkswizard I did on my CSS, 7.5 GTI and cupra. Definitely worth doing
      Also there’s a spring on the pedal which works against the return spring so make the pedal return very slowly
      Try removing that before the delay valve - it was terrible on my CSS with that spring on the pedal, it just pops off in a few seconds

  • @merk8641
    @merk8641 2 місяці тому

    What seats are those?

  • @joeboycott147
    @joeboycott147 Рік тому

    I like the T-shirt, where did you get it from?

    • @volkswizard
      @volkswizard  Рік тому

      That's very old - I bought it from an official VW Motorsport stall at Rally GB somewhere muddy in Wales in November 2014 I think. Not seen them for sale anywhere since.

  • @b4b516
    @b4b516 Рік тому +1

    A grade A brake fluid change! unfortunately it’s a dying practice for many no good reasons.
    I think you should add to these maintenance videos if you haven’t done so before on where the correct locations to jack a VW are.
    Crushed sills plagued the classics but we can still save the ones to come 😂.

    • @volkswizard
      @volkswizard  Рік тому

      Good point re jacking points. I don't enjoy jacking any sill but it's better than slipping off some other bit

  • @e-proyects6691
    @e-proyects6691 3 місяці тому

    Where did You find the manuals from vw

  • @spills_n_thrills
    @spills_n_thrills Рік тому +8

    I watch Golf GTI videos despite owning an Octavia vRS 245 because no one cares about the vRS, even though it's a GTI with 2" longer wheelbase but better day to day practicality (and arguably better interior)

    • @justinkirkhope8810
      @justinkirkhope8810 6 місяців тому

      Agree, nice car - same with my Superb 280, with the exception of 4wd, much the same on brakes, chassis etc

  • @philipguacci6452
    @philipguacci6452 Рік тому

    What about braided brake lines. Race Pads. Wheel bolts rather than nuts, to prevent wheels shearing off. George and Misha at the Nurburgring have done this to their GTI. Or is this to extreme in this case. Cheers from me Andrew.

    • @volkswizard
      @volkswizard  Рік тому +1

      Thanks again Philip for the input - braided brake lines are a good idea when upgrading brake hardware so one for future. Same goes for upgraded pads. On a VW you can fit studs to the hub and use bolts to hold wheels on (like on a Ford!) , Racingline do this kit but I feel safer on correctly torqued wheel bolts personally, only benefit really is to make wheel swaps quicker and easier, more important for a racing car where they swap wheels on the grid before races as well as pit stops.

    • @man1to
      @man1to Рік тому +1

      You not driving it hard enough then if you say that braided lines are for upgraded brakes ....I've done my first track with my OEM GTi and 3 laps my brakes were gone. Came back at later date with braided lines... motul rbf660 fluid and mintex m155 pads and the difference is night and day. If you going to Nürburgring in the OEM setup your brakes will be gone after a few corners guaranteed!

  • @malcolmscott4150
    @malcolmscott4150 Рік тому

    Now off to the track 🏎🏎🏎🚒 🎯👍

    • @volkswizard
      @volkswizard  Рік тому +1

      Pretty much as you typed that, I was indeed setting off. It was an interesting evening that if for sure...........

  • @stephenspier9590
    @stephenspier9590 Рік тому +1

    First! 😂

  • @davidhaygarth648
    @davidhaygarth648 Рік тому

    Wife hates pumping the pedal...lol