One Man Pressure Brake Bleeding With Sealey VS820
Вставка
- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- Donations www.paypal.me/...
www.amazon.co....
Buy this bleeder or alternatives amzn.to/2CSShOG
For me, the simplest and most efficient way to bleed your brakes and clutch and pressure test your whole braking system. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Using my Amazon links does not cost you any extra.
Hi you should start with the brake calliper furthest away from the brake master cylinder and then work nearer with each calliper.
Just carried out brake fluid change after watching this as i have the same unit , This short video helped me out a lot ...Thank You.
Looks good , good ad for Sealy too. I use Eazibleed for years with spare tyre as pressure.
Very well explained. This Sealey bleeder comes in a myriad of "brands" all the while its made in the same factory...
the silver button by the side of the pump is a pressure relief valve, no need to struggle with the cap
Correct, just push the valve down to release the pressure.
My problem is the cap, I guess nowadays they have standardised the size. I want to use it on classics and there are many different caps.
@@timbunker4529 3D printed ones won't do the job?
Sealey make a universal adapter with a staged coned shaped bung for the reservoir. www.google.co.uk/search?sca_esv=f5d76052eac9eedd&q=Sealey+brake+universal&udm=2&fbs=AEQNm0DkKKHB4RmlK4mUm_uPTogNPeGszmsYHCNHPKom53QWMcvikpwDABKqTMsq3TcVKiUqJusLVtVlWCPu9Yjr5PgCXg3uJ9FhkmAocJOU6wRcsVAPUmAJ1uhNSKdDXrqDbpMgqCrSjdpQy9rfu0KqJjyVw2fIj7BxecyXc5Xal4Cf4uSdBzpcurY7HtCChOv4QKZJoH_Z-XgQHYtN7jiRrEtcvH3NqQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjCyYav1ceHAxVgVkEAHVZEBc8QtKgLegQIDxAB&biw=339&bih=622&dpr=3.19
Thanks for the great vid SiRobb. This was great help when preparing to bleed the brakes of my Renault.
A note to anyone considering the Sealey bleeder: Be prepared to really tighten the bleeder caps. Mine was leaking some air until I tightened the filler cap with pliers. Other than that, works like charm.
by far the best way to change brake fluid. guarantees no air in the system and no risk to the master cylinder seals when using the 2 man pedal pump method.
Ive been thinking of buying something like this as Im in the throws of restoring a 2002 Mercedes that has been neglected service wise for a number of years...Ive just finished renewing all the suspension and now about to fit new Calipers all round so being on lock down and having to Shield this tool will be perfect..great Video...thank you..
Great tutorial only at #7:15 you can use the pressure release valve on the top it's the metal nipple below the part you use to pump up the pressure.
Great video very straight forward and easy to understand
turkey baster? don't fancy Christmas dinner round yours! great video
Awesome job mate. Just bought a similar item on ebay so will be trying this myself. You made it look easy thanks.
I had an issue with the filler cap not sealing so I applied a very thin layer of silicon grease to the seal and that fixed it, no need to use pliers to tighten it!
I also put some silicon grease on the main pump seal and the pump piston just for good measure.
A fantastic product, makes the process so much easier!
On my 2002 v70 I wasn't able to remove the filter in the brake fluid reservoir so just didn't use the little hose that is supposed to go in there.
Nice job, after watching this video i'm going to change the break fluid .Thanks
very helpful and informative - thanks very much for posting
I have one of these I dod the brake bleed every three years and all the seals failed on this Sealy Unit. Resigned to the bin will just do two may press and release from now on!
I've just bought an unbranded version,and very similar build. The first one became defective because the O ring that's on the pump handle had become damaged. I received a replacement,and put oil on the O ring,works a treat now
How much did you pay for yours
@@mumtazzafar5696 good question. I have just checked my email and it was 4 years ago and it only shows the returned email,not the purchase. I must have deleted it. if you search....3L+1L Car Brake Clutch Bleeding Fluid Bleed Pressure Brake Bleeder....I am guessing I paid about £23. The lowest price I have seen on ebay is £27
Thanks SiRobb was considering one of these but have read on many forums that more than 10psi can burst some reservoir caps off.
Just use whatever pressure is suitable for your car.
SiRobb great video! With regards to the tubing that goes into the jar. does that cone with the bleeder kit or did you by that yourself?
12 psi is a safe pressure for majority of all brake systems, i use it on a daily, i thought 20 was a bit much, but 12 psi has worked well for me.
get a better car
Feo Lender get a better personality
Awesome video!!! 40 pounds now or 40 pounds after 40 cuss words trying to do it by hand.
You should still be starting from the brake the furthest away from your reservoir and finishing at the closest but look like an brilliant tool mate
Sometimes with ABS systems, the longest path can actually be to the front wheels. Always best to check the service manual for the correct bleeding sequence.
That doesn’t make no sense, the furthest wheel from the master cylinder will always be on the rear
@@djhatstand7312 ,
Before posting my same concern for going to the farthest wheel on most vehicles first as opposed to what's shown here at 4:35 , I was looking for this very comment sub-thread to also point out that I had come upon forums stating that *on some vehicles, the service manual does have you bleeding from a vehicle's front wheel first* as counterintuitive as that is to the established norms for most vehicles. 📌📍 So, everybody has a chance here to be correct.
Just2Options? Irrational: FearOrExuberance?
I agree with what your saying, the ABS system introduces the possibility of air being trapped within the ABS pump when doing work on the braking system, also you may need diagnostic equipment to cycle the valves within the ABS pump whilst bleeding to totally remove any trapped air.
I've never had any problems using furthest to nearest but then that was they way I was taught many moons ago. A lot of manuals show the use of special tools also but usually normally available tools and a bit of ingenuity suffice
If you're willing enough you can bleed the brakes in accordance with the MI. Take the vehicle out and brake hard triggering the abs module 2-3 times come back and bleed the system again. I normally just use a diagnostic scan computer to pulse the ABS module myself, easy when you know how.
Spot on chap, nicely done. All questions answered!
I have the v4, which has a pressure release valve and is as yet unused, so your vid was an excellent refresher!
Happy braking! 👍🏻
I need to get me one of those I'm always doing the two men system every 🚙 car or truck 🤣
the pressure release valve is the silver part on the black plastic pump section
The explanation at 7mins 15" is incorrect. First of all, the reservoir won't be full because there was an air void between the fluid level and the adapter cap when it was first attached and this will still be there. Releasing the pressure does not suck back the fluid. When the pressure is released, ideally the bleeder should be placed below the reservoir level and the adapter cap slackened. At this point, fluid will syphon back from the reservoir into the bleeder tank and continue to do so until the reservoir level is at the bottom of the dip tube, at which point it will stop syphoning. The adapter cap on the VS820 only allows 3/4 of a turn from just engaging to fully tight - this is insufficient and if you over-pressurise the bleeder, you run the risk of blowing the cap off. The spare cap offered by sealey (without the elbow connector) is a little deeper and so attaches more securely.Finally, lube up all the seals with silicone grease from new or these things leak air like the proverbial sieve, otherwise, they're great bits of kit.SiRobb is the only person I've seen who realises that it's actually a good idea to pump the fluid through fully before finally securing the adapter cap - possibly not entirely necessary but will avoid pumping air into your brake lines if you've been a little over-zealous with the turkey baster!!!
Excellent channel. Subbed ! 👍🏻
Thanks ever so much, I bought a cheap non-brand one and it wasn't immediately clear whether the port on the left came off to fill with fluid (it's very tight out of the factory, and other brands seem to require removal of the pumping mech instead)
46 Garages just thumbed you down
Well SiRobb, I have purchased a VEVOR branded copy of the Sealy VS820. I'm going to give it a go on the strength of your video tutorial.
Did it hold up or did it suck?
@@seesikopter Yep, I got it done single handed. I was sceptical I must admit but thankfully I managed it.
@@nicholaschriss1706 did you have to do something with the ABS system when just changing fluid? I’m kinda sceptical that I gotta do something with the ABS system.
Had one of these for years ,and by far easiest and most reliable way of bleeding .Only one thing I've found ,is that it does not fit the master cylinder cap on Suzuki Grand Vitara 2002- onwards and no replacement cap available from sealey
The worst of this is the way every auto seems to have a different size cap. I suppose one could buy extra caps for each car you work on, or jury rig something that fits.
Hi, if you Google "VS820UA" you'll see the universal adapter that's also available at extra cost which will increase the range of use cases.
Just 1 note... don't turn the turkey baster lol keep it straight...when you turn it side ways you move the air pushing the liquid out more.
Thanks for the video man.
Do you have to remove all air from the reservoir? Or just fill to max? Does it not just pull the air into the lines
Great Vid - thanks
8years later this Sealey bleed tool is approx £60 depending where you buy it.
Can you not initially refill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid from the brake fluid container ie you don't need to use this tool? Otherwise good video.
Thanks. Easy!
Caps going on the reservoir then feels like its stripping the threads as you tighten it up...guess i need a different cap?
If it's actually stripping the threads, yes but I doubt that's happening.
Sometimes I need a plumber's wrench to tighten sufficiently to be airtight. Perhaps a little silicone spray on the threads to smooth the way.
Brilliant
I heard you should start at the furthest wheel then the next furthest etc.
Thanks
Good job.
All good but you didn't start on bck brakes first always start from the corner furthest away from the reservoir working uour way to the closest corner
If you don't bleed the ABS unit too (if fitted) you will end up with old brake fluid sitting in the ABS unit for years. With my VW I can do a complete fluid change avoiding this serious problem If in doubt a main dealer will change the fluid for £50ish
+Andy Mac In fact one may simply do some aggressive braking before and after the brake fluid change so that ABS is actuated and the liquid stuck in abs pump get's exchanged with the mainstream lines.
Hi, ive heard of a vw and bmw main dealer opening one bleed nipple on the front and draining the fluid from the reservoir and one wheel. The customer knew as he mrked the bleed nipples. Whilst slipshod and probably fraudulnt In reality it probably works fine as bulk clean brake fluid in the reservoir will lower the water in the remaining lines automatically as the water level equalises.
Perfect thanks. What happened to the loud music over the audio? Great stuff
Thanks.
Loud music over audio though? Not sure what you mean.
@@sirobb just kidding, too may videos that's all you get, loud music, yours is just clear and to the point.
Oh right I see.... Yes I prefer low key. It's only car maintenance after all. 😊
Is it good for clutch bleed too
SiRobb will 1litre be enough brake fluid for a volvo xc90 d5 2004 car also does the tube that collects the used brake fluid from the bleed nipple into the jar come with the Sealey vs820 brake bleeding system or do i have to purchase that separately.
6:52 - is there a good location on the bottle from which it can be hung from the hood in order to keep it hanging plum, fluid inside kept level or maybe at least hung so it sways the fluid towards the pickup tube to ensure against bubbles taken up into the system?
I've never needed to hang it.
I stood it on an upturned car wash bucket next to the headlight on the ground
Very nice. Will this method also replace the fluid in the ABS pump? Thanks
Yes, the fluid has to pass through the pump to get to the calipers.
If you have a leak in your system that shows up when you pressurize to 18 psi.
Then you have a more more serious problem.
Moggiemanner 2017 Not necessarily as it depends on where the leak is but that's not really the point of buying a pressure bleeder.
Even if you only use it to bleed your brakes, it's a great bit of kit but it has other uses too.
Yes you're correct. thanks for the great video, I'll probably buy this one bc of you video.
Amateur question.
If the clutch uses the same fluid. How do you make sure all the clutch hydraulics are bled too?
Do you just pump the clutch at some point?
The clutch has it's own bleed nipple which needs to be opened separately whilst the system is under pressure.
Location of the clutch bleed varies a lot between different cars.
The clutch slave cylinder will have its own bleed nipple so you just bleed using that
Good vid m8 , went n bought 1 of these well ok , thx 4 sharing ;0)~
Firstly, thanks your videos are fantastic, especially as I've just bought a 2005 S60 163 D5 so thanks! One question here, I've always bled from the furthest caliper from the MC first but you seem to have gone closest? I'd used a Gunsons pressure bleeder in the past but that was not a good experience, I'll spend the £40 for the sealey one this time. Thanks again. Murray!
Thanks for the supportive comment!
Haynes says to start from nearest to the MC but in all honesty, I can't see what difference bleeding order makes.
Ultimately, the aim is to fully renew all the fluid in all the lines and as you can see, this bleeder achieves that very quickly and easily.
I hope you do get one as it's a great tool which has other uses too, which I hope to show in other videos.
great tool :)
So the ladies have told me !
Great clear video so many thanks. A question. How does the pressure this system generates bypass the master cylinder and reach the brakes? Doesn't it stress the piston in the master cylinder?
I don't know the technicalities to be honest but it's certainly of no risk if used correctly.
Pressure systems using the same principles are used on the production line to prime the brake lines of new cars so there are literally millions of examples of it being a safe method.
@@sirobb Thanks. I had a search on the internet and when the master cylinder is at its rest position, the fluid from the reservoir can feed directly in front of the piston and into the system!
Thanks for the video. I wanted to buy a kit so I'll look at that Sealey one.
I would say buy a box of nitrile gloves as the brakes are generally filthy and that fluid isn't kind to your hands.
Standard practise is to do the furthest away brakes first - getting the longest dirty fluid line flushed first.
Would you consider getting a proper waste receiver bottle to avoid spills?
I don't really see the point in a dedicated bottle for old fluid but each to their own.
Bleed order on mine is nearest the reservoir first then work outwards.
There's no definitive standard for bleed order.
Thanks for another great video.
Did the bleeder fit straight onto your Volvo s60 or did you need an adaptor?
Straight on with the included adapter.
@@sirobb Thanks for confirming.
Looking forward to seeing some more of your videos!
Power bleeders won't work on some vehicles with ABS units. My 2001 Dodge truck has an ABS unit that has to be scanned to bleed the air out of it. Computerized vehicles suck!
Not really. There should be no air in a sealed system, just water in its liquid state and brake fluid. The clean brake fluid elsewhere will lower the water level automatically throughout the system
Sportster88 is correct. Like you say, in normal circumstances there is no need to bleed the ABS system. If you replace any item in the system minus the ABS pump then you can bleed with a normal pressure bleeder to remove the air however if you replace the ABS pump or want to change the fluid inside the ABS pump then you need to have a scanner with ABS functionality which activates the pump and forces the air out.
If your willing enough, bleed your brakes. Take the vehicle out and brake hard to trigger the abs a few times. When you get back bleed them again. That will push and fluid out the abs module.
Can I just buy a garden pressure sprayer for a fraction of the price?
This isn't an essential tool so if it does the same job you can use anything.
Hey there, any reason why you are not using the pressure release valve to release the pressure at the end of the job? It is what it is for, that chrome spring-loaded button to the left of the pump, push that down and the pressure is released the correct way, unscrewing a pressurised thread to achieve this will likely damage the thread in the long term. Take it easy :-)
I don't like the action of the valve and the sudden nature of the initial pressure release.
I prefer the release of pressure to be more gradual so I use the cap.
Just personal preference really.
Thanks for the comment.
I have got one of these for my rover 820si
Thanks, assuming air will want to go upwards, is it best to bleed clutch cylinder nipple (in the higher position relative to brake nipples) before the brakes, or after. Or does It not really matter ?
Hi does this work with a peugeot partner van by any chance please? Many thanks
You'd need to measure your reservoir cap or check the size with Peugeot.
Tried this on an M3 E46, unfortunately the cap isn't tight enough on the resivoir and leaks.
Any idea where I'm going wrong?
Cheers
I’d sand it down till it fits or get another adapter specifically made for your size
anything to know about the ABS unit?
If you begin with very little brake fluid in the reservoir, and you pressuirise that space, why is it not possible for that air to be pushed into the brake system?
I can't picture what you're trying to achieve so why are you wanting to pressurise an almost empty reservoir?
The pressure bleeder fills the space with brake fluid, even if there's any air left it should come out during the bleeding
hi Simon, very good video gave me confidence to do my vehicle XC €90 , after completion, I had a much better brake pedal, and much clearer fluid, but after running my car, the ABS light came on, which was a bit disappointing, any advice most welcome. Many thanks g
Find slippery surfaces gain some descent speed,break hard until ABS kick in,repeat few times.That’s will open ABS valves and relief any bubbles trapped.
@@matajo11 thanks mate , will try tomorrow 👍
@@matajo11 hi, out of interest, have you ever sorted out a Bluetooth scanner for your Volvo a very basic OBD2? Many thanks, G
Thanks, said kit. What if I have a hydraulic clutch (Toyota Corolla d4d 2litre 2003) which uses the brake fluid to run the clutch pedal as well. So, I need to drain both clutch and brakes.
Should we pressurise through the nipple on clutch cylinder underneath the gearbox ?
You open the clutch nipple when the hydraulic system is pressurised, the same as the brake nipples.
with this machine you dont bleed the abs, just with software
Nice equipment but my car does not have a screw lid on the brake fluid reservoir. It has a bajonet closure. Is it possible with this system?
There are brake reservoir adaptive lids for your scenario but make sure and check out the reviews as they can vary widely in their key performance indicator - whether or not they'll stay sealed.
Vida says 0.2mpa pressure which is 30psi. I think I'm going to chicken out and do 20psi. I only dared do 15psi on my mum's fiesta
Using a pressure bleeder to bleed a clutch on a VW Passat
Do I engage the pedal to the floor and leave it and then build up the pressure in the bottle and after five minutes open the nipple on top of the gearbox at the slave cylinder ?😊
You don't need to touch the pedal.
@@sirobb so leave it up or keep it to the floor?
Well Actually I’ve put on a new master cylinder
When ' starting ' to replace your brake fluid on your vehicle. Where, what place, side of the vehicle do you start. Bearing in mind that on MY Ford Focus 2005 1600 petrol engine, has the brake fluid reservoir in front of the drivers side of the vehicle, right front? Thank you.
I've never found any particular order to be essential but I would advise that you check your manufacturer's recommendation and decide for yourself.
Do you use dot4 or the elusive dot4+ in your s60?
Pretty sure I used standard Dot 4.
I can’t get my filter out it’s stuck… any idea?
The screen/filter in the brake fluid reservoir is barbed so I use slim long nose pliers to grip the edge then use a small screwdriver to pry the barbs whilst lifting out the screen.
Be patient.
@@sirobb ah ok thank you so much :)
Great video thanks mate , I should be receiving mine through the post tomorrow , how do you know per caliper when they’re don just when the fluid is clear and no air bubbles ???? Can anyone answer this please
No bubbles and the fluid coming out resembles the clean fluid going in.
To be certain of flushing each brake line, take 150ml per caliper and if you have a manual gearbox with a hydraulic clutch, flush that through too.
SiRobb This is what I thought .. thank you appreciated
Would I need to bleeder tools if I wanted to bleed the clutch and braking system both. Or can I use one for both??
Regards
The brake and clutch use the same fluid bottle so you use just one tool.
+sirobb sweet! Thanks a lot for the info
In the case that the two fluids are different on your vehicle, you should find a pump parts safe method of cleaning the other system's fluid from the exterior of the pump body that lies inside the bottle, its check valve membrane and bottle gaskets, the bottle itself, the fluid pickup tube and its flex hose. Be cautious when applying brake cleaner to some of those pieces since brake cleaner can be quite an aggressive substance. Certain types of hydraulic fluids are not meant to be mixed nor should they be - can cause system damage. 👍 Otherwise, if you do enough of the work on other vehicles, there may be return on investment rationale for getting a separate bottle dedicated to the flushes that are using a secondary fluid after you have *clearly labeled both pump bottles and, also a good idea, the pumps themselves* so parts are not accidentally interchanged. 📍📌
Another question to address please. If the car uses dot 4 fluid, but I can only get Dot 5.1, and the two fluids must not be mixed, is there a way to use the Sealey pressure kit to avoid mixing the two fluids ? The car is old and its difficult getting Toyota dot 4 fluid anymore !!
With Amazon and eBay etc., I've never had a problem finding the correct Dot4 for my car which is older than yours.
Good. Video. How much brake fluid did you put into the plastic bottle by the way?
The whole hydraulic system is around 700ml but I put maybe double that into the bleeder to ensure the pick up straw is fully immersed at all times so no air can be drawn in.
Eurocarparts do 5 litres of brake fluid for £10 so the cost per vehicle is very low.
Nice machine!
Does this machine come with different adapters?
Does the adapter suit all kinds of makes?
How much brake fluid do you put in the machine to flush the whole brake system of your Volvo S60?
Hi, if you Google "VS820UA" you'll see the universal adapter that's also available at extra cost which will increase the range of use cases.
You need around a 1.5 litres to flush the system whilst keeping the pick up straw inside the bleeder submerged in brake fluid.
@@sirobb Thank you for the explanation!
But the standard adapter does fit the brake fluid reservoir of the S60 I suppose?
Question- my resovior cap is not screw type it's a turn and lock one as found on older hondas, does it come with lots of different resovior caps to ensure it'll fit and seal? Thanks
No, not as standard but a universal cap accessory is available to buy separately.
15 psi
Hi. I've followed all the instructions and not getting any leaks but the fluid up the feeder tube and into the reservoir isnt like a solid flow. There is hell of a lot of air that constantly comes through with not much fluid.
Then after a while the fluid almost comes to a stop unless you depress the brake pedal a few times.
I thought these negated the having to press the brake pedal....
Any ideas?
A bad seal or blockage somewhere. There's no other explanation unfortunately.
@@sirobb thanks👍 must be blockage as its holding pressure very well. I shall investigate.
Thanks for the reply man
No problem. A flipped or sticking seal inside the ABS pump *may* be the problem so you may have some success by taking the car for a drive and activating the abs several times.
You can do this at fairly slow speed by braking hard on wet grass or loose gravel.
It goes without saying to only do this in a completely safe environment where you and others are in no danger.
Test car before taken it to main road in car park safety
I don’t know why people want to maintain their own cars, any garage would have done that for you, and fitted new brake pipes, callipers and pads that you didn’t need, for just under a grand. And they would do a full service, basically an oil and filter change for another 3 hundred quid on top.😂
Doing it yourself is way cheaper and more fun, imo especially easier and people have things called hobbies…
Because why would you pay for something that you can do yourself? Obviously not everyone can if they have no knowledge about cars etc. but if you can then why not?
And eat your wine gums from the door pocket and leave the empty packet there
Not many understand the sarcasm here
Jaka średnica korka ?
I think 45mm but don’t know, soon I’ll know for sure
Do you have trouble with the rear brakes pushing through? Mine will pump up to 30 psi and still wont push from the rear. Front is a piece of cake.
you might have a clogged bleeder screw
Use the manual method and give the pedal a hard push. Rusty shit came out of my mates lexus.
would it work on renault / dacia dusters?
Yes if it has a suitable brake fluid reservoir cap.
Hi
Is this tool suitable for an mg zr Or any other maker?
Thanks in advance!
It comes with a standard 42mm cap which should fit most European brake reservoirs.
If yours is a different size, you'll also need an adapter sold separately.
I'm pretty sure yours will be standard though...... but check obviously. 👍
Cheers for that!
Do you need to push brake pedal?
No. That's the whole point of the system.
🍎 📷 👌 🚗 .. The best method. Lives depend on a good job.
Will this bleed air trapped inside the ABS valve unit?
Royale with cheese If your ABS unit has a bleed nipple, I would use the nipple to be sure.
I'll have a look. Does the brake pedal have to be kept depressed when flushing like this? Will that help circulate the fluid inside the master cylinder?
Royale with cheese You leave the brake pedal alone.
The pressure created by the bleeder will force all the old fluid out.
Royale with cheese on
Do u know now if there’s anything with the ABS block? Like what does Vida say?
Is it bleeding air In the ABS module also?
Some ABS units have their own bleed nipple but if yours doesn't, the fluid will be refreshed when you bleed the calipers.
@@sirobb thanks for reply. So ABS bleeding by scanner also not compulsory?
@@jameswan670 I've never heard of bleeding by scanner. How would you do that and what car are you talking about?
@@sirobb many scanner has function for ABS bleeding which can forcibly operate the ABS module to bleed air. But I did not know that your method can bleed air in the ABS module
🍎 0:33 " flushing urine through " ? 😱
Will this work on gm vehicle’s?
I know its been 8 years since this was posted but I just paid £140ish!
for what? for the sealey one? its 58 pounds in Amazon.
At your own risk not responsible damage or injury caused malfunction
"and errrm", repeated too many times
why didn't you just press the button to release the air pressure